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JOURNAL 


OF A 
: SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY OF A 
i NORTH-WEST PASSAGE 
q 


FROM THE ATLANTIC TO THE PACIFIC: 


PERFORMED IN THE YEARS 152]1—22—23, 
IN HIS MAJESTY'S SHIPS 


FURY AND HECLA, 


UNDER THE ORDERS OF 


CAPTAIN WILLIAM EDWARD PARRY, R.N., F.R.S.. 


AND COMMANDER OF THE EXPEDITION. 


ILLUSTRATED BY NUMEROUS PLATES. 


PUBLISHED BY AUTHORITY OF THE LORDS COMMISSIONERS 
OF THE ADMIRALTY. 


LONDON : 


JOHN MURRAY, 
PUBLISHER TO THE ADMIRALTY, AND BOARD OF LONGITUDE. 


MDCCCXXIV, 


LONDON: 
PRINTED BY W. CLOWES 
Northumberland-court, 


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24 


wo sg eee ee 


TO 


THE RIGHT HONOURABLE THE 


LORD VISCOUNT MELVILLE 


’ 

2 FIRST LORD COMMISSIONER FOR EXECUTING THE OFFICE OF LORD 

: HIGH ADMIRAL OF GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND, Se, &c. Sc, 

: 
: THIS VOLUME, : 
ia ‘ 

3 CONTAINING t 
i THE JOURNAL OF A SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE 

4 FROM THE ATLANTIC TO THE PACIFIC, 
" UNDERTAKEN AND EXECUTED UNDER THE AUSPICES OF HIS LORDSHIP, 


IS INSCRIBED 
WITH THE GREATEST RESPECT AND GRATITUDE, 


BY HIS OBLIGED AND FAITHFUL SERVANT, 


WILLIAM EDWARD PARRY. 


Lovpon, March, 1624, 


SHR ERIN en ae ane arue maRae 


rea SN cc Ses aI RA Sp 


CONTENTS. 


PAGE 
INTRODUCTION . . . : . . i 
Explanation of Technical Terms . ‘ ‘ xix 
Official Instructions xxi 


CHAPTER I. 


Passace across the Atlantic—Removal of Stores from the Nautilus Transport, at the margin 
of the Ice—Departure of the Nautilus for England —Enter the Ice in Hudson’s Strait— 
Perilous Situation of the Hecla, and loss of her Anchor— Meet with the Hudson’s-Bay 
ships—Passage up the Strait, and communication with the Natives inhabiting the Northern 
shores—Pass the Trinity Islands of Fox—Arrival off Southampton Island, where the 
researches of the Expedition commence . : . 


CHAPTER II. 


Review of the geographical Information obtained by the Researches of former Navigators on the 
coast of the American Continent, in the neighbourhood of Wager River—Discover and 
enter The Duke of York’s Bay, supposing it to be a Passage into the sea called The Welcome 
—tLeave The Duke of York’s Bay, and proceed to the North-Westward—Passage of The 
Frozen Strait and arrival in Repulse Bay—Continuity of Land there—Observations on 
Shore—Remarks concerning the Geography, Tides, and Natural History of this part of 
the Continental Coast . , . . . 


CHAPTER III. 


Return to the Eastward through the Frozen Strait—Discovery of Hurd Channel— Examined 
in a Boat—Loss of the Fury’s Anchor—Provisential Escape of the Fury from Shipwreck 
—Anchor in Duckett Cove—Further Examine:ict. of the Coast by Boats and Walking- 
Parties—Ships proceed through Hurd Channei--Are drifted by the Ice back to South- 
ampton Island—Unobstructed Run to the Entrance of a large Inlet leading to the North- 
Westward—Ships made fast by Hawsers to the Rocks—Further Examination of the Inlet 
commenced in the Boats . . . . . . 


CHAPTER IV. 


Hoppner’s Inlet entered and Surveyed by the Boats—Continuity of Land there determined— 
Proceed to examine another opening leading to the Westward—Favourable Appearance 
of a continued Passage in that Direction Meet with some Esquimaux—Arrival in Ross 
Bay, being the termination of Lyon Inlet—Discovery and Examination of various Creeks 
—Return to the Ships, after finding the Land entirely continuous —Some account of the 
Natural History of this part of the Coast ‘ . 


26 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER V. PAGE 


Furthe: Examination in the Boats for the purpose of connecting the Shores of Lyon Iniet with 


that of Gore Bay—Detained by the Icee—Reach Gore Bay—Continuity of the Land deter- 
mined—Fresh detention by the Ice—Boats carried over-land—Return to the Ships— 
Progress out of the Inlet prevented by the Ice—The Fury grounds upon a Rock—Anchor 
in Safety Cove—Heavy Easterly Gales—Proceed out of the Inlet-—Arrival in a Bay on the 
South side of Winter Island—Ships secured in Winter-Quarters 


CHAPTER VI. 


Precautions for the security of the Ships and their Stores—And for the Health and Comfort of 


the Crews—Establishment of Theatrical Entertainments and Schools—Erection of an Ob- 
servatory and House on Shore—State of Health at this period—Partial Disruption of the 
Ice in the Bay—Anchors and Cables taken to the Shore—Gradual Increase of Cold, 
appearance of the Aurora Borealis on several occasions, and various other Meteorological 
Phenomena to the close of the Year 1821 ‘i 7 


CHAPTER VII. 


Many Foxes caught—Continued Open Water in the Offing—Partial disruption of the Ice in the 


Bay—Meteorological Phenomena and Temperature of Animals—Arrival of a Tribe of 
Esquimaux—First Meeting and subsequent Intercourse with them—Esquimaux in want of 
Provisions—Supplied with Bread-dust—Some account of a Sealing Excursion with them 
—Fresh disruption of the Ice in the Bay—Closing of the Winter Theatre —Meteorological 
Phenomena till the end of February 1822 


CHAPTER VIII. 


Charts drawn by the Esquimaux—lIlIness among them—A Journey performed across Winter 


Island—Sufferings of the Party by Frost—Further notice of the Esquimaux Charts—De- 
parture of some of these People, and a separate Village established on the Ice—Various 
Meteorological Phenomena—Okotook and his Wife brought on board—Anecdotes relating 
to them—Ships released from the Ice by sawing 


CHAPTER IX. 


Increased extent of open Water in the Offing—A Travelling Party despatched to the North- 


ward—Unsuccessful attempt to raise Vegetables on Shore—Decease of James Pringle 
—A party of Esquimaux build Huts near the Ships—Return of the Travellers, and 
account of their Journey—First appearance of the Plants—Birds become numerous— 
Commence cutting a Canal through the Ice for liberating the Ships—II]ness and decease 
of John Reid and William Souter—Breaking-up of the Ice inthe Bay—Account of Winter 
Island—Abstract of Observations made there . . : 


CHAPTER X. 


Departure from Winter Island—Meet with some Esquimaux travelling to the Northward— 


Obstructions and danger from the Ice and Tides—Discovery of the Barrow River, and its 


119 


. 223 


Pals Le ica aS ae aria ities BIS, « 


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19 


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(tinea AS aS Darra Sel lean 


CONTENTS. 


PAGI 
Fall—Favourable Passage to the Northward—Arrival off the Stract of the Fury and 


Hecla—Progress opposed by a fixed barrier of Ice—Communicate with the Natives of 
Igloolik—Unsuccessful attempts to get between the Ice and the Land—Land upon the 
Calthorpe Islands—The Fury drifted by the Ice between two Islands—Account of a Jour- 
ney performed in Sledges up an Inlet to the Westward. . . » 240 


CHAPTER XI. 


Remarkable instance of local Attraction on the Magnetic Needles—Occasional separation of 
a portion of the fixed Ice—A Whale killed—Other Charts drawn by the Esquimaux— 
Account of a Journey to the Narrows of the Strait—Discovery of the Sea to the West- 
ward—Total disruption of the Ice at the Eastern entrance of the Strait—A second 
instance of local Attraction on the Compasses—Sail through the Narrows, and again 
stopped by fixed Ice—Account of several land Journeys and boat Excursions—Observa- 
tions on the Tides—Continued obstacles from fixed Ice. . . . 296 


CHAPTER XII. 


A Journey performed along the South Shore of Cockburn Island—Confirmation of an Outlet 
to the Polar Sea—Partial disruption of the old Ice, and formation of new—Return 
through the Narrows to the Eastward—Proceed to examine the Coast to the North-east- 
ward—Fury’s Anchor broken—Stand over to Igloolik to look for Winter-quarters— 
Excursion to the Head of Quilliam Creek—Ships forced to the Westward by gales of 
Wind—A Canal sawed through the Ice, and the Ships secured in their Winter Station— 
Continued visits to the Esquimaux, und arrival of some of the Winter-Island Tribe—Pro- 
posed plan of operations in the ensuing Spring . : , . 340 


CHAPTER XIII. 


Preparations for the Winter—Various Meteorological Phenomena to the close of the year 1822 
—Sickness among the Esquimaux—A Hospital built near the Ships for their accommoda- 
tion—Meteorological Phenomena to the end of March—Abstract of the comparative 
mean Winter temperature at Melville Island, Winter Island, and Igloolik ‘ . 876 


CHAPTER XIV. 


Various Journeys to the Esquimaux Stations—IIlness and decease of Mr. Alexander Elder— 
Preparations for the Hecla’s return to England—Remarkable Halos, §:c.—Shooting Parties 
stationed at Arlagnuk—Journeys to Quilliam Creek—Arrival of Esquimaux from the 
Northward—Account of a Journey to the Westward for the purpose of reaching the Polar 
Sea—The Esquimaux report two Fishing Ships having been wrecked—A Journey per- 
formed to Cockburn Island—Discovery of Murray Maawell Inlet ‘ : © 425 


CHAPTER XV. 


Extraordinary disruption of Ice in Quilliam Creek—Some appearance of Scurvy among the 
Seamen and Marines—Account of a Journey with Sledges to Cockburn Island—Dis- 
covery of Gifford River—Commence cutting the Ice outside the Ships to release them 
from their Winter-Quarters—Considerations respecting the return of the Expedition to 


5 a a 


CONTENTS. 


PAGE 


England—Unfavourable state of the Ice at the Eastern entrance of the Strait—Proceed to 
the Southward—Ships beset and drifted up Lyon Inlet-—Decease of Mr. George Fife— 
Final release from the Ice, and arrival in England—Remarks upon the practicability of a 


North-West Passage ‘ . 


. : : . 459 


Some further Account of the Esquimaux of Melville Peninsula and the adjoining Islands ; 


more particularly Winter Island and Igloolik 


Vocabulary of Esquimaux Words, §c. . 


. . . F « 492 


DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER FOR INSERTING THE PLATES. 


Situation of His Majesty's Ships Fury and Hecla 


at Igloolik, 1822-23 ° : Frontispiece 
Canve of the Savage Islands, Hudson's Strait, to 

face page . . . : . 14 
Plan of Duke of York Bay ee, Nhe hee . 48 
Planof HurdChannel .. . 74 


Cutting into Winter Island, October, 1821 . 118 
Interior of an Esquimaux Snow-hut, Winter 
Island, 1822 . . . ° R - 160 
Groupe of Esquimaux, 1822. +  « « 163 
An Esquimaux watching a Seal © « «+ 11 
Manner of holding the line when a Walrus is struck 172 
Esquimaux listening at a Seal-hole, &c. - 178 
An Esquimaux watching a Seal-hole . - 172 
An Esquimaux creeping into the Passage of a 
Snow-hut . . : ‘ . . 187 
Esquimaux Chart, No. T. : a -% . 197 
Ditto ditto, No. II. , . 198 
Arnaneelia, a native of Winter Island, 1922 . 207 
Esquimaux Chart, No. II. Ses, os - 252 
Fall of the Barrov x. 266 
Summer Tents of the Bendimanx: Igloolik, 1992, 271 
An Esquimaux of Igloolik, in a bird’s-skin jac- 
ket, &c. R ‘ . ° . 274 
Sledges of the Bicuitaus ‘ - «290 


Western outlet of the Strait of the Fury and Hecla 351 
Esquimaux House built ofice  . 358 
Takkeelikkeeta, an Esquimaux of Igloolik, 1893 391 
Groupe of Esquimaux atIgloolik . .° . 493 
Groupe of Esquimaux at Igloolik, 1823. . 418 


Nakahu and his Wife Oomna ee 436 
Esquimaux building a Snow-hut . 3 . =. 499 
Esquimaux killing Deer in a Lake » «+ 508 


Esquimaux Children Dancing, Igloolik, 1823 530 
Esquimaux Implements, Weapons, &c. (Fig. } to 

12.) ‘ . . . ° . . 548 
Ditto ditto (Fig. 13 to 27.) - 559 


The Charts, $:c., at the end of the book to be piaced 
in the following order : 


General Chart, shewing the track of the Fury and 
Hecla, &c. &c. 

Chart of the Northern Shore of Hudson's Strait, &. &c. 

Chait of the North-eastern Coast of America, &c. from 
Lat. 643° to 67° 40’. 

Ditto from Latitude 67° 40’ to 700 135’. 

Appearances of Lands, No. 1. 


Ditto, ; . No. 2, 
Ditto, . . No. 3. 
Ditto, , . Noa, 4 


Ra 


sient QA Met a Fi 


PAGE 


Si OE Rc ae 


INTRODUCTION. 


i LEE discovenes made by the Expedition to the North-west in th. 
sumption in favour o! 


y] oa ‘ ~ i, . . . wh. 
s iS19.% ORF SUCH wis Co atford i. strong pre 
’ ees ener EE 8 eee ee a 
om oe or a passage From the Atlantic to the 2Maewlie in that direc 
My wh tary ft f Nt h ’ ) y wene of it 
i (i SO fT pit) e OUT Tn Vi ) MODS OF 1S 
i 
y 1 : OOD bw i] Viayesty nh the VO pM SNA LLG OF Lu¢ cr : en 
r ‘ }} 4 { , Pe | 1? 
Viely \s eee “ft anoth rf yt oO he mage to ¢ ct that object , 
t onis Commissioner * th, 8 deninales cas waa. i wilescaGanet wands 
OMLMUSsloOn ers of iM ayn ) verye Picusead Once 


ts 4 
pped 
i 


o honour me with the command of an I xpedition, to be equi 
Jeptiord for that purpose. The fecla having been found well 


i 
’ 
pted to this service, a second ship of precisely the same class wi 
leeted. and T received my commission tor Bis Majesty’s ship the 
‘ ' eS PO ; : } " 
v, of three nundred and seventy-seven tons burthen, on the 30th 
of Does 3:2(), ihe dHeela was re-commissioned by Cant: 
} ] " 
bY Pane Von, on 1 4th of January POtLOWw ire 
} ~ y 
hs i Pee eaten the forme I, eC tLON HAV) r vok }~ 
! ' 1} t | ‘ pis : 4 t 
(Ck Chae S if . t a. Wore bohe t to ] } rOUAT SUCH 
! 4 i 
be py mt Lidl shment yOu acai. ii me prererence WIS 
( \ , \* 7 — 

Phin ewven to such oF the forme TeW us were considered ht te 
this serviee; and a great number of other seamen also coming torward 
t 1} , nm ) : 
enter, Chv¢ “l i Were speedily Weil man oad tide Reverend (reorge 
1} 


Visher, who had accompanied the Lxpedition to 


recommendation of the President and Couneil of tl 


was now, iat the 


| Society, appomiod Astrovomer } and if beimg in CVers respect 


) 
Oy 
desirable that a Chaplain should form a part of our establishment, 
at 


EASELS Ra eB is ES Sr i IRIEL A INTE T iti I ORIEN 


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Sa sos aati Aa 


Eek re ho a tas 


Spins oo 
wists moe 


INTRODUCTION. 


"THE discoveries made by the Expedition to the North-west in the 
years 1819-20, being such as to afford a strong presumption in favour of 
the existence of a passage from the Atlantic to the Pacific in that direc- 
tion, while they served also to point out the most probable means of its 
accomplishment, His Majesty, on the representation of Lord Viscount 
Melville, commanded another attempt to be made to effect that object ; 
and the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty were pleased once 
more to honour me with the command of an Expedition, to be equipped 
at Deptford for that purpose. The Hecla having been found well 
adapted to this service, a second ship of precisely the same class was 
now selected, and I received my commission for His Majesty’s ship the 
Fury, of three hundred and seventy-seven tons burthen, on the 30th 
of December 1820. The Hecla was re-commissioned by Captain 
George Francis Lyon, on the 4th of January following. 

The officers who accompanied the former Expeditions having volun- 
teered their services, their Lordships were pleased to re-appoint such 
as the present establishment would admit. The same preference was 
likewise given to such of the former crews as were considered fit for 
this service ; and a great number of other seamen also coming forward 
to enter, the ships were speedily well manned. The Reverend George 
Fisher, who had accompanied the Expedition to Spitzbergen in 1818, 
was now, at the recommendation of the President and Council of the 


Royal Society, appointed Astronomer; and it being in every respect 
desirable that a Chaplain should form a part of our establishment, 


i il INTRODUCTION. 


Mr. Fisher also received an order to act in that capacity. A second 
Lieutenant, two able seamen, and a corporal of marines, were added 
to the former complement ; and the distribution of the whole on board 


each ship will be seen in the annexed Table. 


| ON BOARD THE FURY, 


ON BOARD THE HECLA. 
eae 


RANK. : 
Ofticers? Names. No. Officers’ Names. | No. 
a ee 1 OS ae a oe \ aati 
Commander - «+ «|| William Edward Parry . 1 | George Francis Lyon . 
Chaplain and Astronomer, || George Fisher . . } 


. | . . . . . . 
|| Joseph Nias . ; | ie Parkyns Hoppner ‘ 
| Andrew Reid Charles Palmer 

Surgeon, . . John Edwards ; . - | 14] Alexander Fisher 


Purser 


William Harvey Hooper «| 2] John Jermain 

James Skeoch + «| 14] Allan M‘Laren 

Joseph Sherer . 
Charles Richards . . 


Assistant Surgeon 
, John Henderson. ° 
Francis Rawdon M. Crozier 


=~ 


Midshipmen 


James Clark Ross . William Nelson Griffiths 


Edward Bird 


Assistant Surveyor . 


Lieutenants . . ; 
(in Fury only) John Bushnan 


Clerk R ; James Halse . ‘ 1 || William Mogg ma Oo 1 
Gunner. . James Scallon =. =. =~ | = 1 |] Joseph Macklin 1 
Boatswain , William Smith . . «| 1 |} Joseph Lilley ‘ 1 
Carpenter . : George Fiddis . . «| 1 || Charles Purfer I 
Greenland Master John Allison . ‘ - «| 1 || George Fife . . 1 
Greenland Mate : George Crawford . =. «| 1! Alexander Elder 1 
Cook ° . | ° ° ’ ° . 1 ° . . . . | 1 
Leading-Men ., | , 4 i Se RD .| 4 
Quarter-Master , . 1 . : ’ . | 1 
Gunner's-Mate | -{ 1 ° : : , {1 
Lvatswain's-Mate 1 : ‘ P , ‘ {1 
Carpenter's-Mate : : -} 1] on a Os {i 
Armourer's- Mate . 1 | . Set ; ’ |! 
Sailmaker . : ‘ ’ . 1 . : ‘ I 
Able Seamen . —r ‘ . 24 : ; ’ ‘ : 


Maninas, 
Sergeant.  . =. —. |} Sohn Spackman ss, » «| 1 | Charles Wise ee 
Corporal ww, rn ee ay ee a 
Privates. : © 6 ey i » of 5 : ber ce . ios 


Astronomer's Servant 


eer oe ee Pea ah i oi i ie am as 


i a as ec Nl ey ai 
it hale Bi BA i ks a 


Sh aie) She ti ea ORL = 


INTRODUCTION. iti 


The mode of doubling and fortifying the ships differed in no material 
circumstance from tk + before employed, which was found to have 
afforded the greatest degree of strength, consistently with the requisite 
attention to the stowage and sailing qualities, of which perhaps any 
ship is capable. In the exterior equipment of the hulls, the only alte- 
rations worthy of notice consisted in increasing the thickness of the 
doubling to six inches, to give the ships some additional stability ; and 
in making the rudder-cases much larger, in order to allow the rudders 
more room for shipping and unshipping, whereby that operation is 
much facilitated. The ships were barque-rigged as before; but in 
order tv increase our resources in stores of every kind, it was suggested 
by my friend, Captain George Cheyne, that it would be advantageous to 
adopt the plan of “ equalized” fore-masts and main-masts, which had 
of late been partially introduced into our naval service, at the recom- 
mendation of Vice-Admiral Sir Thomas Byam Martin, Comptroller 
of His Majesty’s Navy. An advantage somewhat less obvious than 
that just mentioned, was the appointment of two ships of exactly 
the same size in every respect. The idea usually entertained of 
the necessity of having one of the two vessels thus employed, a 
small one for the purpose of going into shoaler water, is in my 
opinion an erroneous one. The examination of shoal and uncertain 
passages is best conducted in boats, which may be equipped gnd 
despatched at five minutes’ warning, while a small vessel intended 
more expressly for this purpose will, after all, draw as much water 
as the larger one within two or three feet, which difference is in reality 
but a trifling one. Allowing, however, that some benefit may be 
derived in this way from the services of a smaller vessel, it is by no 
means to be put inte competition with the inevitable disadvantages 


INTRODUCTION. 


arising from her confined stowage, and her incapacity to receive the 
crew of the other vessel in case of serious and irreparable injury hap- 
pening to the latter. Any vessel unable to carry every item of her 
own resources, must at some period or other of the voyage become a 
burthen, and, in case of separation, helpless and inefficient; a contin- 
gency which there is no necessity for risking. If to what has just 
been stated be added the advantages, which every seaman will readily 
appreciate, of each ship being enabled to furnish her consort, on any 
occasion. of loss or damage, with stores of a size and nature exactly 
suited to her wants, no doubt can, I think, exist of the expediency of 
having the two ships precisely similar. 

So rigidly was this principle adhered to in the equipment of the 
present Expedition, that, taking into consideration the improbability of 
both ships sustaining losses in the same articles, our supply of stores 
might almost be considered as doubled by this arrangement. Thus, 
for instance, the fore-masts and main-masts were not only “ equalized ” 
in each ship, but the dimensions of these, and of every thing belonging 
to them, were precisely alike in both, so that any article belonging to 
either of these four masts might be transferred from ship to ship, and 
at once applied to its proper use, without selection, trial, or alteration 
of any kind. In the course of the following Narrative, it will be seen 
what essential service was derived from this plan in the indispensable 
article of anchors, on which the safety of a ship so often and so entirely 
depends. I have been thus explicit in stating some of the advantages 
of this arrangement, from a conviction of the absolute necessity of 
resorting to it in the equipment of two ships that must necessarily be 
dependent solely on. their own resources, for a long and uncertain 
period of time. 


AAS ina OI a tS EE, C6 ea ME Toons 


cain 


Pi oi BT a es OE 2 er BES 


INTRODUCTION. v 


Some material alterations were made in the interior arrangements, 
which experience suggested as necessary to the accommodation, health, 
and comfort of the officers and men. One of the principal of these 
consisted in applying a thick close lining of cork all round the ships’ 
sides, and on the under part of the upper decks, fore and aft. Shut- 
ters and plugs of the same material were also fitted to every window, 
sky-light, and illuminator, so as completely to surround the inhabited 
parts of the ships, during the winter months, with this substance. 
Care being thus taken to prevent the rapid escape of the warmth, 
recourse was also had to the most effectual means of producing and 
distributing it. With this view, an apparatus was fixed on the orlop 
deck of each ship, between the sail-room and the main hatchway, on a 
plan proposed and executed by Mr. Sylvester, for conveying a current 
of heated air into the several inhabited apartments. It is described 
by Mr. Sylvester to “ consist of a wrought-iron vessel, about twenty- 
two inches square, placed upon pillars resting on a cast-iron frame 
upon the beams of the orlop deck. This vessel, or cockle, was four 
feet high, close at the top, having an opening in front for the ash- 
pit and feeding-door, and another behind for the discharge of the 
smoke into a perpendicular iron tube. The fire-place is within this 
vessel, and the heat is given to its interior surface. On the outside 
is an iron covering containing.tubes, which approach, nearly at right 
angles, to the surface of the cockle; these are divided into two por- 
tions, one below to receive the cold air, which impinges upon the 
cockle; the other above, for the discharge of the warm air. These 
two cavities are separated from each other by a second casing about 
four feet square below, for the cold air, and terminating in two feet 
square at the upper-deck, where a part of the warm air is dis- 


ena em 


ati Rte aE TE Sage 


vi INTRODUCTION. 


charged; the rest is conveyed by flues on each side the ship to the 
cabins of the commander and other officers. The velocity of the warm 
air current through an aperture two feet square is about five or six 
feet per second.” This stove was intended by the inventor to con- 
sume only five pecks, or a bushel and a quarter of coals, by a constant 
fire throughout the twenty-four hours; but even this quantity was 
found more than sufficient, except during the most severe part of the 
second winter. The galley-fire was turned with its face aft, which 
served to impart much more warmth, as well as a more cheerful 
appearance, to the lower deck. This plan had not been before adopted 
because it was understood that the fire would not draw so well; but 
the reverse of this was, on trial, found to be the case. 

I must not here omit to notice a simple, ingenious, and effectual 
contrivance, now first adopted, for meiting snow for our consumption 
as water, during the winter months, without any additional expense of 
fuel. The smoke issuing from the galley-fire, and indeed its heat 
generally, does little or no service beyond the ordinary purposes of 
cooking to which it is applied. It occurred to Messrs. Lambe and 
Nicholson to occupy a portion of the aperture through which the 
smoke ascends, by a metallic vessel or tank of considerable capacity, 
allowing the smoke to pass freely up on each side of it, and thus to 
communicate a constant heat to the vessel. In the top of the tank is 
a large circular hole for supplying it with snow from the upper deck, 
and in the lower part is inserted a cock for drawing off the water. 
This apparatus, which was so little in the way that it could not even 
be seen, produced without any increase of fuel, and with the tempera- 
ture of the external atmosphere nearly at zero, sixty-five gallons of 
pure water from morning till night; a quantity, of course, more than 


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Ciiiaaenie . Signa 


Sa. 


Sr ibcB A gc 
Nee 
a Nee 


nd te is ehat tes 
osetia 


Che ASS och! aw Vp nia ag eer eens sae Ns 


ans 


nae 


Ze, 


spline et re 


INTRODUCTION. vii 


sufficient for our whole consumption, had there been any occasion to 
limit the expense of an article so conducive to health and comfort. 

In the account of the preceding voyage, it has been stated that a 
serious annoyance arose, during the winter, from the accumulation of 
moisture and ice produced by the condensation of the breath and other 
vapours in the ships’ companies’ bed-places. It was determined, there- 
fore, on the present occasion, ‘to do away with these both for the 
officers and men, substituting for the former cots, and hammocks for 
the latter. This change proved extremely beneficial, by increasing the 
ventilation, and promoting the more uniform circulation of warm air, 
which had before been materially impeded by the number and close- 
ness of the bulkheads. | 

In the victualling of the ships several alterations were likewise made, 
which the experience of the last voyage suggested. The principal 
object being to stow as much as possible, a considerably larger supply 
than before of the meat preserved in tin cases by Messrs. Gamble 
and Co., was now furnished, amounting to two pounds per week a 
man, together with a quart of vegetable or concentrated-meat soups, 
for a period of three years. For the same reason, the spirits were 
supplied at thirty-five per cent. above proof, to be reduced, when 
issued, by means of a hydrometer, to the strength of that usually fur- 
nished to the navy; by which expedient the stowage was economized 
in the proportion of an increase of forty gallons on every hundred. 
For one-half of the proposed supply of biscuit, kiln-dried flour of the 
best quality was substituted, to be baked into bread during the winters ; 
three hundred-weight of flour oceupying only the same space as one 
hundred-weight of biscuit. A considerable portion of the fore-hold 
was also partitioned off into two large binns or bread-rooms, for 


viii INTRODUCTION. 


the stowage of biscuit in bulk; which method would have been more 
extensively adopted, but from the fear of thus incurring loss by 
damage. The rest of the provisions were stowed in new water-tight 
casks. 

The whole of the vinegar was concentrated to one-seventh of the 
ordinary bulk, as well for economy in stowage, as to avoid loss by 
freezing. In this last respect, we had also before experienced a 
serious loss in the. still more important article of lemon-juice, in 
consequence of the bottles bursting in the hold. To obviate this, 
it was now stowed in small five-gallon kegs charred within, not, quite 
filled, and sufficiently strong to resist the expansion of the acid in 
freezing. The whole of the juice was squeezed from fresh lemons 
for our use, and a small quantity of rum added to each keg to assist 
in keeping it fluid at a low temperature. In addition to lemon- 
juice and sugar, which form.a part of the ordinary diet in His Majesty’s 
Navy, a number of other valuable anti-scorbutics were liberally sup- 
plied, consisting of carrots preserved in tin cases by Messrs. Gamble 
and Co., crystallized lemon acid, cranberries, lemon marmelade, tama- 
rinds, pickled walnuts and cabbage, essence of malt and hops, essence 
j of spruce with molasses, dried herbs for tea, and a quantity of the seed 
of mustard and cress to be grown as circumstances required. A large 
supply of potatoes and beet-root was also furnished, which kept tolera- 
bly well for the first two or three months after leaving England. . As ; 
we had found, after living on salt provisions for some time, that beef 
became less palatable, and was also less digestible than pork, we now 
dispensed with carrying any salt beef, except a few casks corned ex- 


eae Seat Sepa ie wie 


pressly for our use as soon as the fresh meat should be expended. 
When these arrangements had been completed, for which I am very 


INTRODUCTION. ix 


materially indebted to the suggestions of my friend Mr. Hooper, purser 
of the Fury, the ships were effectually victualled and stored for a 
period of three years. During the progress of their equipment they 
were occasionally visited by the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty 
and the Comptroller of the Navy, and subsequently by Lord Viscount 
Melville, who was pleased to express his approbation of the various 
arrangements. As however the ships, when completely stowed, were 
found to be very deep in the water, it was deemed advisable, to prevent 
the possibility of risk, that the Expedition should be accompanied by 
a transport as far as the margin of the ice, in order to relieve them of 
a part of their lading in crossing the Atlantic; and the Nautilus, of 
four hundred and five tons, Lieutenant William Scrymgour agent, was 
appointed by the Navy-Board for this purpose. A portion of the 
weight was accordingly removed on board the Nautilus till the ships 
were considered to be in safe trim ; and some extra stores were also put 
into the transport, to enable us to complete the Expedition to the time 
of her leaving us. Of these perhaps, twenty live bullocks and a quan- 
tity of coals (making our whole supply in each ship one hundred and 
eighteen chaldrons) were not the least important. 

A number of valuable chronometers and instruments, of which a 
list is here subjoined, were embarked on board each ship; and a variety 
of useful experiments, for which the requisite materials were provided, 
were suggested by the Council of the Royal Society, to be conducted 
by Mr. Fisher as circumstances might permit in the course of the 


voyage :— 


Be og a3 
<= eee a 


co 


INTRODUCTION. 


i ta ra 
ieee 


SBS eee SO eel AREA RN REMIT RO 


List of Instruments, &c., embarked‘ on board each Ship. 


Pury. 

Astronomical Clock, by Barrett, the PrEeery of Mr. Fisher . ‘ L 
Chronometers ‘ 13 
Of which, three of those on ‘board the Fury: were the teofidity of Mr. Fisher, 

one belonging to Captain Parry,.and four sent on trial by their respective 

makers. (See Account of Chronometers in the Appendix.) 
Portable Observatory i . 
Transit Instrument : 
Forty-inch, triple-object ane selsariahic Telescope by Dollond ‘ 
Repeating-circle 
Circular Transit, the —" of Mr. Fishet 
Dipping-Needle, by Dollond _.. . 

Do. do. “by Troughton 

Do. do. by Jones 
Variation Transit ‘ ‘ i . 
Variation Needle ‘ : ‘s 
Instrument for determining the Magnetic Force, (Captain Kater’ ) 
Azimuth Compasses. : ; : do. 

Do. do. ; ‘ . (Walker's) 
Magnets ‘ ‘ ’ ‘ . ‘ . ; 
Spirit-levels for Kater’ 8 compasses 
Dip-Sectors, (Dr. Wollaston’s) 
Macrometer : do. 
Altitude-Instruments (Captain Kater’ ) 
Quadrant with level 
Theodolite, large 

Do. small 
Anglometers 
Circular Protractors 
Station-Pointer : . 
Beam-compasses : . : Le . ° . F 
Together with every other requisite riaterial for surv eying and drawing. 
Artificial Horizons, with mercury 
‘Thermometers : ‘ : : 
Self-registering do. (Six’s) with iron cases. 
Pyrometer, by Carey 
Hygrometers, (De Luc’s) 

Do. (Mr. Leslie’s) 


"Ow %© & 2 


at ort > a ee ee ee 


em %*° 


mm mt 2 2 2 ws me UO 


> 


rw) 
> 


tn a) 


"22 2 2% & 2% 


em 2° 


- 2 


eae Retin wird Sa oa 


lie eas 


psa 


padi, 


INTRODUCTION. xi 
Fary, Hecla, 
Photometers (Mr. helen D) 3 
Hydrometers . 38 1 
Hydrostatic Slee, one thie the prety of Mr. Fisher Q 
Water-bottles, (Dr. Marcet’s) 2 Q 
Two-feet telescopes 2 2 
Electrometers, with coppenetialew 2 sets 
Air-Pump : 1 


A case of chemical mutetiale for Mr. Fisher's s Bepevines nts 


I cannot conclude this account of our preparations without expressing 
my sincere thanks to Sir Thomas Byam Martin, Comptroller of the Navy, 
Commissioner Cunningham, and Captain Hill, Comptroller of the Vic- 
tualling Depét at Deptford, for the readiness with which they acceded 
to and even anticipated my wishes in every thing relating to our com- 
plete equipment. To the Navy and Victualling-Boards generally I also 
feel most highly indebted for the very obliging manner in which they 
were pleased, on various occasions, to refer to me with a view at once 
most effectually to execute the commands of the Lords Commissioners 
of the Admiralty, and at the same time to consult, whenever it lay in 
their power, the wishes of the Officer commanding the Expedition. Nor 
can I omit to offer, on my own part, as well as that of the Officers under 
my command, our best acknowledgments, once more so justly-due, to 
the Officers of Deptford Dock-Yard for the kind assistance received 
from them in those numberless minor points belonging to their seve- 
ral departments, on which the comfort and accommodation of persons 
employed on this service so materially depend. 

On the return of the Expedition to England the journals, charts, and 
drawings furnished by every individual in the course of the voyage were 
be 


; xii INTRODUCTION. 


put into my hands, with directions to publish, under the authority of 
the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, an official narrative of our 
late proceedings. To prevent the delay before occasioned by waiting 
for the publication of the details relating to geography and natural 
history, I determined on reserving the whole of these for an Appendix, 
to form a separate volume. The following account is principally taken 
#| from my own journal; but I am indebted to the other officers, and 
1 especially to Captain Lyon, for numerous interesting extracts which 
are distinguished by inverted commas. 

The charts accompanying this Narrative were carefully constructed 
under my inspection on board the Fury by Mr. Bushnan, assistant- 
surveyor. The original charts, which are on a much larger scale, and 
| on which the angles used in their construction are laid down, have been 
| deposited in the Hydrographical Office at the Admiralty, together with 
| the surveying-books and other documents of that kind containing more 
in detail the materials used in the survey. 

i The survey of the coast was entirely carried on as before by astro- 
nomical bearings, the geographical position of the various stations being 
fixed by the mean of the observations of several individuals. From the 
number and excellence of the chronometers embarked on board the 
Fury, and the variety of observations used in the occasional correction of 
their rates, it is hoped that the geography of that portion of the North- 
Eastern Coast of America, which has been discovered and surveyed 
by this Expedition, will be found to be fixed with considerable accu- 
racy. For a more detailed statement of the methods employed, in the 
i] performance of this essential part of my duty, as well as for some notices 

respecting the geography of this hitherto unknown corner of the 
globe, I must refer to the account of the going of the chronometers, 


INTRODUCTION. xiii 


the tables of the several observations, and the memorandum relating 
to the charts in the Appendix. With the hope of making the charts 
in some degree interesting to the geologist, as well as to the sea- 
man and geographer, I have inserted in them a brief notice of the 
geological character of the lands we had an opportunity of examining ; 
and some pains have been taken to deduce and delineate, from the 
numerous Esquimaux sketches, such parts of the coast as those people 
are acquainted with, but to which our own efforts have not hitherto 
enabled us to obtain access. It having been suggested that the deline- 
ation of ice upon a chart gives it a confused appearance, while it con- 
veys the idea of a fixed rather than of a constantly moving body, it 
has now been altogether omitted, except in one or two instances, where 
the description given of its position in the Narrative may by this 
means be illustrated and explained. 

The sketches of lands were principally made by Mr. Bushnan, such 
views being selected by myself as appeared most striking, or best cal- 
culated to elucidate the descriptions given of the coast. Some were, 
however, taken by Captain Lyon, to whom the Public is indebted for 
all the other drawings of every description. Of the merit of these 
interesting performances it would be presumptuous in me to offer an 
opinion ; but I cannot deny myself the pleasure of bearing testimony 
to the obliging readiness with which Captain Lyon has always attended 
to my suggestions on this subject, as well as to the eagerness and assi- 
duity with which he seized on every opportunity of exercising his 
pencil, which so monotonous and unpicturesque a voyage presented. 
The ‘drawings were soon after our arrival put into the hands of 
Mr. Edward Finden, with whose abilities as an artist the Public is 
already well acquainted ; it is hoped that the manner in which they 


xiv INTRODUCTION. 


have been engraved will sufficiently shew the care which has been taken 
in their execution. ! 

No opportunity has been omitted of procuring and preserving spe- 
cimens in the several departments of Natural History, of which a con- 
siderable collection has been made in each ship, and which will be 
described in their proper places in the Appendix. The necessary 
smallness of our establishment rendering it expedient to dispense with 
the appointment of a professional Naturalist, who has usually: formed a 
part of expeditions of this nature, the sole responsibility in this de- 
partment of science naturally devolved upon myself. As however I 
can lay no claim to any of the qualifications requisite in a naturalist, 
and yet have hopes that our collections will not be altogether wanting 
in interest, I consider it incumbent upon me, with a view to do justice to 
the individuals who have assisted me in this way, to give some account 
of the manner in which that part of my instructions has been executed. 

The collections made on board each ship were purposely kept sepa- 
rate, with the intention of providing against accidents happening to 
either ; except on one or two occasions, where only a single specimen of 
any animal was obtained, in which case it was transferred to the Fury. 
The collection of the animal kingdom formed by Captain Lyon has 
afforded additional interest from the drawings that accompanied them, 
wherein the colours most liable to fade were faithfully delineated from 
specimens just killed. For the specimens obtained on board the Fury 


I am necessarily indebted to the zeal and industry of the several’ 


Officers of that ship, who have at all times rendered me their best 
assistance in promoting this object. I must however particularly ex- 
press the acknowledgments which I consider due to Mr. Ross who, from 
the commencement of the ve yage, undertook in addition to his other 


aes: 


ce Ta sit ec Ian lS Ra A Bae 


’ si at iad 
TE CO Lee et, MAR meer aye ees h a ger, Aine iS Th RS Cl at la 
Le I MS SR SON Cah eR LE EMR ig Sane ie pmbareee eeetee > aaa 


Sei ee ee is ee Lacan ah Rhea Te 
ai RN Oa Ba eae tial bo heen la ne. nett 


INTRODUCTION. xV 


duties, to superintend the preservation of stuffed specimens of birds 
and other animals ; a task requiring a degree of taste as well as of skill 
and attention, which perhaps persons accustomed to these matters can 
alone duly appreciate. The public collection of plants and minerals 
on board the Fury has been in great part made and entirely arranged 
by Mr. Halse, to whose industry and attention in these departments 
for several years past I am particularly desirous to do justice. So 
general however have the taste for collecting and the skill in pre- 
serving become, among the individuals employed on these Expeditions; 
that much additional interest has been derived from an examination 
of the distinct collections of plants and minerals made by several of 
the officers, and particularly from that of Mr. Edwards, whose notes on 
the Natural History of these regions have added much valuable infor- 
mation on this subject. Some skeletons of animals have been prepared 
for the Museum of the College of Surgeons by Mr. Skeoch, among 
which those of a wolf and an Esquimaux dog will perhaps not be 
considered the least interesting, as shewing the comparative anatomy 
of those two animals. Soon after the arrival of the ships in the river 
Thames, the public Collections of Subjects of Natural History were 
put into the hands of three gentlemen well qualified to describe them. 
I need only mention the names of Professor Jameson, Professor Hooker, 
and Dr. Richardson, to assure the public how much justice will be 
done to their description; but I cannot omit this opportunity of offer- 
ing my warmest thanks to these gentlemen for the kind and handsome 
manner in which they did me the favour to undertake this task. 

A monthly Abstract of the Meteorological Register is inserted in its 
proper order in the course of the nartative, that method having been 
considered most convenient for reference, on a subject necessarily 


xvi INTRODUCTION. 


forming so large and constant a portion of the interest of a polar 
voyage. In the journal from which these abstracts were made, the 
temperature of the air and of the sea-water was noted every two hours, 
and the height of the mercury in the barometer every four hours, 
throughout the voyage ; and the abstracts were carefully and separately 
arranged by Lieutenant Nias and Mr. Ross*. The whole of the tem- 
peratures were registered by Fahrenheit’s thermometer, and the signs + 
and — signify above or below zero of that scale. When neither of these 
signs is attached, the temperature is to be understood as positive, or 
above zero, except in those columns of the abstracts where a continued 
series of low temperatures occurs. To avoid needless repetition also 
in the course of the Narrative, it may here be added that the whole 
of the bearings are the true ones, the Dips of the Magnetic Needle 
North, the Latitudes North, and the Longitudes West of the meridian 
of Greenwich, unless otherwise expressly noticed at the time. 

The temperature of the sea below the surface was sometimes ob- 
tained by Six’s self-registering thermometer attached to the deep-sea 
lead ; but more commonly (in consequence of the frequent failure of 
that instrument when exposed to sudden changes) by bringing up 
some water in the bottle contrived by Dr. Marcet, and already de- 
scribed in the Introduction to the Narrative of the former Voyage. 
This simple and useful apparatus was now somewhat improved by a 
strong spring enclosed within the box, and obliging the bolt, in what- 
ever position it might be placed, to close the apertures as soon as the 
catch was released, instead of trusting to its own weight as before. 


* I omitted to mention, in my account of the Voyage of 1819-20, that the Meteorolo- 
gical Register was then kept in a similar manner. 


pera RR OE ele ws ERS BURY 


$A MRESS MGI SEPALS 5G RSE 


« 
ae ee 


INTRODUCTION. xvi 


In describing the Esquimaux inhabiting the sequestered and hitherto 
unknown corner of the American Continent, which we have recently 
visited, I have aimed rather at faithfulness of delineation than at 
height of colouring, studiously avoiding the mention of any fact of 
whose accuracy the slightest doubt remained upon my mind. Of the 
latter class are numerous pieces of information obtained in a cursory 
way from the Esquimaux, which, however, our imperfect knowledge 
of their language cid not enable us thoroughly to understand, and 
which almost daily experience of our former misapprehensions subse- 
quently taught us to receive with greater caution and distrust. In 
attempting a description of the manners, disposition, and general cha- 
racter of these people, it has been my anxious desire “ nothing to 
extenuate, nor set down aught in malice,” but to present, as far as it 
goes, a faithful and impartial sketch; divested on the one hand of the 
too flattering impression at first received from the extreme quietness 
of their demeanour, and on the other, of the feelings of annoyance 
occasioned by our subsequent acquaintance with the less favourable 
features in their character. In the more important, though less diffi- 
cult task of relating the proceedings of the Expedition, with reference 
to its primary objects, my endeavours have been exclusively directed to 
the attainment of accuracy and plainness, omitting nothing, however, 
which appeared to me likely to afford interest or information, and 
avoiding every minute detail but what seemed absolutely necessary for 
explaining my views, or otherwise elucidating the subjects under con- 
sideration. 

That our efforts have not hitherto been crowned with greater suc- 
cess, cannot fail to be a matter of extreme disappointment, as well as 
of sincere though unavailing regret ; but I feel it a duty to state, that 
c 


INTRODUCTION. 


XVill 


had our progress been in any degree proportionate to the exertions of 
those under my command, there would ere this have been nothing 
left to regret, and but little to accomplish; and I am happy therefore 
thus publicly to express the high sense I entertain of the laudable 4 
zeal and. strenuous exertions uniformly displayed by Captain Lyon, : 
the officers, seamen, and marines, of both the ships engaged in this 


service. Of the exemplary conduct of the men it has been my good 


fortune to command on this occasion, I cannot indeed speak too 


highly; it has been a happiness to their officers and a credit to them- 


selves. It was highly gratifying to observe the eager assiduity with 


which, during two successive winters of long and tedious confinement, 


they followed up the more sedentary occupations of learning to read i 


and write, with which they were furnished ; and it is, I confess, with 
no ordinary feelings of pleasure that I record the fact, that on the 
return of the Expedition to England, there was not an individual 
belonging to it who could not read his Bible. 

Of the value of Mr. Fisher’s labours in those departments of science 
to which his attention was particularly directed, I cannot pretend to 
| form a competent opinion, and his account of them now preparing in 
| the Appendix will, I doubt not, speak for itself; but I have the most 
sincere pleasure in offering my testimony to the unabated zeal and 
perseverance with which, under circumstances of no ordinary diffi- 
culty from climate, and in spite of frequent ill. health, he continued 
to pursue every object which could tend to the improvement of Astro- 


nomy and Navigation, and to the interests of Science in general. 


Mee eo te gt — ks se nl 
Ben a nc inne Oe aR 


AGREES SAR eh Siu 


Ses a mee face tea i ot 
Hehe Rael he 


Beards Peon dere 


bt SING 


acai aes 


EXPLANATION OF TECHNICAL TERMS 
PECULIAR TO THE NAVIGATION AMONG ICE; 


And occasionally made use of in the course of the following Narrative, where they are distinguished 
by inverted commas. 


BAyY-1cE.—Ice newly-formed upon the surface of the sea. 

BesetT.—The situation of the ship when closely surrounded by ice. 

Bicut.—An indentation in a floe of ice, like a bay, by which name it is sometimes called. 

Buink.—A peculiar brightness in the atmosphere, often assuming an arch-like form, which 
is generally perceptible over ice or land covered with snow. The blink of land, as 
well as that over large quantities of ice, is usually of a yellowish cast. 

BorzE.—The operation of “ boring” through loose ice consists in entering it under a press of 
sail, and forcing the ship through by separating the masses. 

CALF.—A mass of ice lying under a floe near its margin, and when disengaged from that 
position, rising with violence to the surface of the water, See TONGUE. 

VLeAR WATER.—Any part of the sea unincumbered with ice. 

Crow’s-NgEst.—A small circular house like a cask, fixed at the mast-head ,in which the 
look-out man sits, either to guide the ship through the ice, or to give notice of 
whales. 

Docx.—In a floe may be natural or artificial; the former being simply a small “bight, in 
which a ship is placed to secure her from the danger of external pressure, and the 
latter, a square space cut out with saws for a similar purpose. 

Frerp.—A sheet of ice generally of great thickness, and of too great extent to be seen over 
from a ship’s mast-head., 

Funcntne.—The operation of stripping a sea-animal of its skin and blubber. 

Firor.—The same as a field, except that its extent can be distinguished from a ship’s mast- 
head. A “ bay-floe” is a floe of ice newly formed. 

A Hoe or Poot of water.—A small space of ‘clear water,” when the rest of the sea is 
covered with ice, 

LAND-ICE.—Ice attached to the land, either in floes or in heavy grounded masses lying near 
the shore, 


c 2 


————= SSN ee 


ee 


ee 


xx 


EXPLANATION OF TECHNICAL TERMS. 


LeEAD.—A channel through the ic. A ship is said to “take the right lead” when she fol- 
lows a channel conducting her intoa more navigable sea, and vice versa. 


MakinG-orFr blubber.— The operation of putting it into casks. 
NrpPrp.—The situation of a ship when forcibly pressed by ice. 


PAcK.—A large body of ice consisting of separate masses lying close together, and whose 
extent cannot be seen. 
PANCAKE-ICE.—Newly formed ice, assuming the peculiar conformation of numberless 


patches of “sludge,” and giving the surface of the sea the appearance of a hand- 
some pavement. 


Parc of Ice.—The same asa pack, but of small dimensions. 


SAILING-ICE.—Ice of which the masses are so much separated as to allow a ship to sail among 
them. 


SALLYING a ship.—The operation of causing her to roll, by the men running in a body from 
side to side, so as to relieve her from the adhesion and friction of the young ice 
around her. 

SLUDGE.—Ice of the consistence of thick honey, offering little impediment to a ship while 
in this state, but greatly favouring the formation of a ‘ bay-floe.” 

STREAM.—A long and narrow, but generally continuous collection of loose ice. 

TonGvE.—A mass of ice projecting under water, from an iceberg or floe, and generally dis- 
tinguishable at a considerable depth in smooth water. It differs from a “ calf” in 
being fixed to, or a part of, the larger body. 

WATER-SKY.—A dark appearance in the sky, indicating ‘ clear water” in that direction, and 
forming a striking contrast with the “ blink” over land or ice. 


YounG-ICE.—Nearly the same as “ bay-ice,” but generally applied to ice more recently 
formed than the latter. 


Sh ik a a 


4 


oe 


OFFICIAL INSTRUCTIONS. 


By the Commissioners for executing the Office of Lord High 
Admiral of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and 
Treland, §-c. &c. 


LORD Viscount Melville having communicated to the King the 
proceedings of the late Expedition into the Arctic Seas, and His 
Majesty having been graciously pleased to express his commands that 
a further Expedition should be fitted out, for the purpose of renewing 
the attempt to discover a passage by sea between the Atlantic and 
Pacific Oceans, and of ascertaining the geography of the Northern 
boundaries of the American Continent, we have thought proper to 
appoint you to the command of the Expedition ; and you are hereby 
required and directed to put to sea in His Majesty’s ship Fury 
under your command, together with His Majesty’s ship Hela, whose 
commander has been placed under your orders, and taking also with 
you the Nautilus Transport, which we have directed the Navy Board 
to place at your disposal (for the purpose of carrying a proportion of 
your provisions and stores across the Atlantic and Davis’ Strait,) you 
are to proceed as quickly as may be consistent with every precaution to 
avoid any risk of your parting company from either the one ship or the 
other, towards, or into, Hudson’s Strait, until you shall meet with the 


- —— 


xxii OFFICIAL INSTRUCTIONS. 


ice, when you are to take the first favourable opportunity of clearing 
the Nautilus Transport of the provisions and stores she is charged with 
for the Fury and Hecla; and having so done you are to send the said 
transport back to England, so as to prevent her incurring any risk of 
receiving injury amongst the ice, reporting by that opportunity your 
proceedings to our Secretary for our information. 

After having so cleared and despatched the Transport you are, with the 
two ships of His Majesty under your orders, to penetrate to the westward 
through Hudson’s Strait, until you reach, either in Repulse Bay or on 
other part of the shores of Hudson’s Bay, to the north of Wager River, 
some part of the coast which you may feel convinced to be a portion of 
the Continent of America. You are then to keep along the bie of this 
coast to the northward, always examining every bend or inlet which 
may appear to you likely to afford a practicable passage to the westward, 
in which direction it is the principal object of your voyage to endea- 
vour to find your way from the Atlantic into the Pacific Ocean. 

In the event of your having consumed the open weather in the exa- 
mination of the northern boundaries of Huds9n’s or Cumberland’s 
Straits, and of your having, at the close of the season, returned into 
Davis’ Strait or Baffin’s Bay; or if you should have made no consider- 
able progress to the westward or northward in any inlet you may have 
found, it will be for you to consider, under all the circumstances of 
the case, whether it may not be expedient that you should return to 
England to replenish, refit, and refresh, rather than winter on a part 
of the coast which you might reach again next season as early as 
would be: necessary for prosecuting your further inquiries. The judg- 
ment which you have shewn in the conduct of the late Expedition 
and the experience which you have acquired, induce us to trust this 


aring 
with 
> said 
sk of 


your 


h the 
ward 
or on 
fiver, 
on of 
’ this 
rhich 
vard, 
:dea- 


OFFICIAL INSTRUCTIONS. xxii 


point to your own discretion, on a view of all the differen’ circum 
stances which may exist at the time when your determinai.on is to We 
formed. 

Should you be so successful as to find a practicable passage from the 
one sea to the other, you are to make the best of your way in accom- 
plishing that object without stopping to examine the north coast of 
America, or for any other object not of imperious importance; but 
when the ships are checked in their progress by ice, or other una- 
voidable circumstances, you will take every opportunity of examining 
the coasts you may be near, and making all useful observations relating 
thereto. 

Should you happily reach the Pacific you are to proceed to Kams- 
chatka, (if you think you can do so without risk of being shut up by 
the ice on that coast,) for the purpose of delivering to the Russian 
Governor duplicates of the journals and other documents which the 
passage may have supplied, with a request that they may be forwarded 
over land to St. Petersburgh, to be conveyed from thence to London. 

From Kamschatka you will proceed to the Sandwich Islands or 
Canton, or such other place as you may think proper, to refit the 
ships and refresh the crews; and if during your stay at such place a 
safe opportunity should occur of sending papers to England, you 
should send duplicates by such conveyance. And after having refitted 
and refreshed, you are to lose no time in returning to England by such 
route as you may deem most convenient. 

It may happen that your progress along the north coast of the 
American Continent may be so slow as to render it desirable that, if 
you should not be able to accomplish your passage into the Pacific 
earlier than the autumn of 1824, you should be assured of finding a 


XXIV OFFICIAL INSTRUCTIONS. 


depédt of provisions at that period in the most advanced situation to 


which they can safely be conveyed. In the event then of our not 
receiving from you such intelligence as may render the measure unne- 


cessary, we shall, about the close of the year 1823, direct the Com- 


mander-in-Chief on the South American station to despatch a vessel 
with a supply of provisions and stores, so as to be at Behring’s Strait 
about August or September, 1824. The commander of this vessel 
will be directed to make the best of his way round Cape Prince of 
Wales, where he may expect, as we are informed, to find an inlet in 
latitude 68° 30, in which Captain Kotzebue is stated to have found 


anchorage a few years since. He will be directed to lie in that ancho- . 


rage, or in the nearest good anchorage he may find to that latitude ; 
and he will be ordered to erect, in the most prominent and visible 
Situation, a flagstaff for your direction. As it is possible that you 
may touch at the Sandwich Islands, this Officer will be directed to call 
at Owhyhee, in order that if you should have passed to the southward, 
he may not be put to the inconvenience of going on to Cape Prince of 
Wales. 

Whenever the season shall be so far advanced as to make it unsafe 
to navigate the ships, on account of the long nights having set in, and 
the sea being impassable on account of ice, you are, if you should not 
return to England, to use your best endeavours to discover a sheltered 
and safe harbour, where the ships may be placed in security for the 
winter, taking such measures for the health and comfort of the people 
under your command, as the materials with which you are supplied for 
housing in the ships, or hutting the men on shore, may enable you to 
do. And when you find it expedient to resort to this measure, if you 
should meet with any inhabitants, either Esquimaux or Indians, near 


aad 


tion to 
ur not 
. unne- 
2 Com- 
. vessel 
Strait 
vessel 
ince of 
nlet in 


. found 


ancho- 
Litude ; 
visible 
at you 
to call 
hward, 
ince of 


unsafe 
n, and 
ud not 
bltered 
lor the 
people 
ied for 


vou to 


if you 
8, Near 


OFFICIAL INSTRUCTIONS. XXV 


the place where you winter, you are to endeavour, by every means in 


your power, to cultivate a friendship with them, by making them pre- 
sents of such articles as you may be supplied with, and which may be 
useful or agreeable to them. You will, however, take care not to suffer 
yourself to be surprised by them, but use every precaution, and ‘be 
constantly on your guard against any hostility. 

You will endeavour to prevail on them by such reward, and to be 
paid in such manner as you may think best to answer the purpose, to 
carry to any of the settlements of the Hudson’s Bay or Noxth-West 
Companies, an account of your situation and proceedings, with an 
urgent request that it may be forwarded to England with the utmost 
possible despatch. 

We deem it right to caution you against suffering the two vessels 
placed under your orders to separate, except in the event of accident 
or unavoidable necessity; and we desire you to keep up the most 
unreserved communications with the Commander of the Hecla, placing 
in him every proper confidence, and acquainting him with the general 
tenor of your orders, and with your views and intentions, from time.to 
time, in the execution of them; that the service may have the full 
benefit of your united efforts in the prosecution of such a service, and 
that, in the event of unavoidable separation, or of any accident to 
yourself, Captain Lyon may have the advantage of knowing, up to the 
latest practicable period, all your ideas and intentions relative to a 
satisfactory completion of the undertaking. 

We also recommend that as frequent an exchange take place as con- 
veniently may be, of the observations made in the two ships; that any 
scientific discovery made by the one be as quickly as possible communi- 
cated for the advantage and guidance of the other, in making their 
d- 


XXvi OFFICIAL INSTRUCTIONS. 


future observations, and to increase the chance of the observations of 
both being preserved. 

We have caused a great variety of valuable instruments to be put on 
board the ships under your orders, of which you will be furnished with 
a list, and for the return of which you will be held responsible; and 
we have also, at the recommendation of the President and Council of 
the Royal Society, ordered to be received on board the Fury the Rev. 
Mr. Fisher, who is represented to us as a gentleman well skilled in 
Astronomy, Mathematics, and various branches of knowledge, to assist 
you in making such observations as may tend to the improvement 
of Geography and Navigation, and the advancement of science in 
general. 

Amongst other subjects of scientific inquiry, you will particularly 
direct your attention to the variation and inclination of the magnetic 
needle, and the intensity of the magnetic force; you will endeavour to 
ascertain how far the needle may be affected by the atmospherical 
electricity, and what effect may be produced on the electrometic and 
magnetic needles on the appearance of the Aurora Borealis. You will 
keep a correct register of the temperature of the air, and of the sea at 
the surface, and at different depths. You will cause frequent observa- 
tions to be made for ascertaining the refraction, and what effect may 
be produced by observing an object, either celestial or terrestrial, over 
a field of ice, as compared with objects observed over a surface of 
water: together with such other meteorological remarks as you may 
have opportunities of making. You are also to attend particu- 
larly to the height, direction, and strength of the tides, and to the set 
and velocity of the currents; the depth and soundings of the sea, and 
the nature of the bottom, for which purpose you are supplied with an 


ae ee te Ae aie ante oe eee 5 a kee aca te tana nl i ie I tn i fog ade crea Geto 8s eT pt Pia aes Bago es gheks soe ae 
et Rae Neca ate Rat ne tow Gye CBE EN te an REN TINE Wrenn ae Fg ir ara eg cae Re Oe CEE 4 


ons of 


ut on 
| with 
; and 
cil of 
» Rev. 
ed in 
assist 
2ment 
ice in 


ularly 
ynetic 
ur to 
erical 
and 
will 
Bea at 
serva- 
may 
over 
e of 
may 
ticu- 
e set 
and 
h an 


jee 
ae 
z 
4 
a 
ht 


au 
3 
5 
A 
u 
ia 
% 
Py 
/ 
4 
BA 
* 
3 
a 
e 
A 


OFFICIAL INSTRUCTIONS. XXVil 


instrument better calculated to bring up substances than the lead 
usually employed for this purpose. 

And you are to understand, that although the finding a passage 
from the Atlantic to the Pacific is the main object of this Expedition, 
and that the ascertaining the Northern boundary of the American 
Continent is the next, yet that the different observations you may be 
enabled to make, with regard to the magnetic influence, as well as such 
other observations as you may have opportunities of making in Natu- 
ral History, Geography, gc. in parts of the globe so little known, 
must prove most valuable and interesting to science; and we therefore 
desire you to give your unremitting attention, and to call that of all the 
Officers under your command, to these points, as being objects of the 
highest importance. And you are to direct Mr. Fisher to be particu- 
larly careful to keep an accurate register of all the observations that 
shall be made, precisely in the same forms, and according to the same 
arrangement, that were followed by Captain Sabine on the late voyage ; 
—into whose charge are also to be given the several chronometers with 
which you have been supplied. 

And although, as already specified, you are not to be drawn aside 
from the main object of the service on which you are employed, as long 
as you may be enabled to make any progress, yet, whenever you may 
be impeded by the ice, or find it necessary to approach the coasts of the 
continent or islands, you are to cause views of bays, harbours, head- 
lands, §'c. to be carefully taken, the better to illustrate the charts you 
may make, and the places you may discover, on which duty you will be 
more particularly assisted by Captain Lyon and Mr. Bushnan, Assistant 
Surveyor. 

You are to make use of all the means in your power to collect and 


de 


XXViil OFFICIAL INSTRUCTIONS. 


preserve such specimens of the Animal, Mineral, and Vegetable King- 
doms, as you can conveniently stow on board the ships; salting in 
casks the skins of the larger animals, as well as causing accurate draw- 
ings to be made to accompany and elucidate the descriptions of them ; 
in this, as well as in every other part of your scientific duty, We trust 
that you will receive material. assistance from Mr. Fisher, and the other 
Officers under your command. 

In the event of any irreparable accident happening to either of the two 
ships, yo": are to cause the Officers and Crew of the disabled ship to be re- 
moved into the other, and with her singly to proceed in prosecution of the 
voyage, or return to England, according as circumstances shall appear to 
require ; understanding that the Officers and Crews of both ships are 
hereby authorized and required to continue to perform their duties 
according to their respective ranks and stations, on board either ship to 
which they may be so removed, in the event of an occurrence of this na- 
ture. Should unfortunately your own ship be the one disabled, you are 
in that case to take the command of the Hecla ; and in the event of any 
fatal accident happening to yourself, Captain Lyon is hereby authorized 
to take the command of the Expedition, either on board the Fury or 
Hecla, as he may prefer, placing the Officer who may then be next in 
seniority to him, in command of the second ship; also in the event of 
your inability, by sickness or otherwise, to continue to carry these In- 
structions into execution, you are to transfer them to Captain Lyon, or 
to the survivisig Officer then next in command to you, employed on 
the Expedition, who is hereby required to execute them in the best 
manner he can for the attainment of the several objects in view. 

His Majesty’s Government having appointed Captain Franklin to 
the command of an Expedition to explore the northern coast of North 


Sp ais CBA pea SO eh ee RN 


ta 


King- 
ng in 
draw- 
hem ; 
trust 
other 


e two 
be re- 
of the 
par to 
S are 
luties 
ip to 
Ss na- 
u are 
f any 
rized 
ry or 
xt in 
nt of 
e In- 
n, or 
on 
best 


n to 


pu 


OFFICIAL INSTRUCTIONS. . xxix 


America, from the mouth of the Coppermine River of Hearne, east- 
ward, it would be desirable, if you should reach that: coast, that you 
should mark your progress by erecting a flagstaff in a few of the most 
convenient and distinguishable points which you may successively visit, 
and you are to bury at the foot of each staff a bottle, containing such 
information as may be useful to Captain Franklin, and such further 
particulars respecting your own proceedings as you may think proper 
to add; corresponding instructions having been given to Captain Frank- 
lin to leave a similar notice at any convenient part of the coast which 
he may discover between the mouth of the said river and the eastern 
part of North America. And in the event of your getting to the 
westward of Hearne’s river, you should occasionally do the same with 
a view to multiply the chances of our hearing of your progress. In 
the event of your finding Captain Franklin and his party on any part 
of the coasts of America, (which being possible, you should look out 
for and attend to any signals that may be displayed on the shores,) you 
are, if he should wish it, to receive him and his party into His Majesty’s 
ships under your command, bearing them as supernumeraries for vic- 
tuals until your return, or you have other n.eans of forwarding them to 
England. 

You are, whilst executing the service pointed out in these instruc- 
tions, to take every opportunity that may offer of acquainting our 
Secretary, for our information, with your progress: and on your arrival 
in England, you are immediately to repair to this office, in order to 
lay before us a full account of your proceedings in the whole course of 
your voyage; taking care, before you leave the ship, to demand from 
the Officers, Petty Officers, and all other persons on board, the logs and 
journals they may have kept, together with any drawings or charts 


xxx 


OFFICIAL INSTRUCTIONS. 


i they may have made, which are all to be sealed up ; and you will issue a 

lit similar orders to Captain Lyon and. his Officers, ic.; the said logs, s 

| journals, or other documents to be thereafter disposed of as we may 4 
think proper. 4 

P| Given under our hands this 27th of April, 1821. q 

Tr (Signed) G. Cocxsurn, 4 

a ) H. Horna, 4 
G. CLERK. q 
| By Command of their Lordships, 4 

| (Signed) J. W. Croker. 4 
i| 4 
a 
iY ’ 
ai | . 
nt} @ 3 
i a q 
| i j 
| + | To q 
1] | William Edward Parry, Esq., Com- q 
ia! mander of His Majesty's Vessel the 4 


Fury, at Deptford. 


SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY. 


aE AGRA PS 


AN 
ee 
i 


SECOND 


VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


OF A 


NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 


CHAPTER I 


® 


PASSAGE ACROSS THE ATLANTIC——-REMOVAL OF STORES FROM THE NAUTILUS TRANSPORT, 
AT THE MARGIN OF THE ICE--DEPARTURE OF THE NAUTILUS FOR ENGLAND=—ENTER 
THE ICE IN HUDSON’S STRAIT——PERILOUS SITUATION OF THE HECLA, AND LOSS OF HER 
ANCHOR—MEET WITH THE HUDSON’S-BAY SHIPS™PASSAGE UP THE STRAIT, AND COM- 
MUNICATION WITH THE NATIVES INHABITING THE NORTHERN SHORES——PASS THE 
TRINITY ISLANDS OF FOX=—ARRIVAL OFF SOUTHAMPTON ISLAND, WHERE THE RE- 
SEARCHES OF THE EXPEDITION COMMENCE, 


Tue Fury, Hecia, and Navtitus Transport, were completed for sea towards 1821. 
the latter part of the month of April, and, on the 29th, at 10 A.M., the wind es 
being from the eastward, with every appearance of its continuing, the Fury 8" 2° 
was taken in tow by the Eclipse steam-boat, which vessel had before taken 

us down the river on asimilar occasion. Attwo P.M., the Fury was moored 

to the buoy at Northfleet, and the Eclipse returned to Deptford for the other 

ships. The Hecla reached the moorings on the following day, ar.J the Nau- Mon. 30. 
tilus on the 1st of May. The guns and ordnance-stores were here received Tues, y 
on board, after which the ships immediately proceeded to the Little Nore 

where they anchored on the 3d. I received my final instructions from the 

Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty on the 4th, and set out for Sheerness 

on the following day. On the 7th, the ships were visited by Rear-Admiral Mon. 7. 
Sir John Gore, from whom we had, on this, as on the former occasion, re- 

ceived every attention and assistance, which the greatest personal kindness, 

B 


NOS Ye TAN Nat PO ane 


ne 


Tues. 8, 


Wed. 16. 


Frid. 18. 


Sat. 19. 


Tues, 22. 


2 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DIS«'OVERY 


and the most lively interest in our success, could suggest. On the same day, 
the ships’ companies received their arrears of river-pay, and three months’ 
wages in advance ; after which they provided themselves with a large stock 
of warm clothing, according to alist previously given out. The crews were, 
however, so well acquainted with the nature of the service on which they 
were about to be employed, that they took good care to provide an abundant 
supply of every thing of that kind. 

Previously to leaving the Nore, I furnished Captain Lyon with a complete 
copy of my Instructions from the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, 
accompanied by an order containing some general regulations; and I also 
appointed certain places of rendezvous, to ensure the meeting of the three 
ships at the margin of the ice, in case of unavoidable separation in crossing 
the Atlantic. 

On the 8th, at half-past three A.M., we weighed from the Little Nore, and, 
being favoured with a fresh breeze from the southward and westward, passed 
through Hoseley Bay at noon, when, the weather becoming thick, I was 
induced to run out at the back of the sands, lest we should not be able 
to distinguish the lights clearly at night. The wind soon after backing 
more to the westward, prevented our getting in with the land, for the pur- 
pose of sending away our pilots, till the 16th when, being off Buchaness, 
they were put into a sloop bound to Leith, and our despatches and let- 
ters forwarded by the same opportunity. 

On the morning of the 18th, being off Copinsha, one of the Orkney 
Islands, and the wind continuing fresh from the northward, which prevented 
our getting round them in that direction, pilots were taken on board to run 
the ships through the Pentland Firth. In the course of. the afternoon, 
however, while standing through, the wind backed to the westward of 
north, with heavy squalls, which would not have allowed us to clear the 
land with the ebb-tide. I determined, therefore, on anchoring in Widewall 
harbour, which we did at four P.M., in six fathoms, and immediately set 
about completing our water. On the following day, I addressed a letter to 
the Secretary of the Admiralty, acquainting him with the proceedings of the 
Expedition up to this date. 

The wind remaining nearly in the same quarter for several days after 
our arrival, it was not until the 22d that we were enabled to weigh and 
stand to the westward, through the Firth. As we proceeded, however, the 
wind gradually veered to the N.W., with a considerable head-swell, which 


= 


MERE RA LO 


a, 
Perot ise eS. 2 


Dene we eee eee To tae 


a 


CSL antares 


$e 


f si Saas nefits 


ne day, 


nonths’ 


e stock 
$ were, 
h they 
undant 


mplete 
liralty, 

I also 
> three 
rossing 


e, and, 
passed. 
I was 
e able 
acking 
e pur- 
janess, 
id let- 


rkney 
ented 
oO run 
noon, 
rd of 

the 
ewall 
ly set 
ter to 
bf the 


after 
h and 
, the 
hich 


a i Sapa ek ede a hos SE edd Neel hen oe ee a EET ToC 


ce 
a 
a 
oe 
B 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 3 


prevented our clearing the land; we accordingly bore up and reached the 


1821. 


harbour of Long-Hope about midnight. We were here once more detained Peis 


by strong and unfavourable winds, which continued with little intermission 
till the morning of the 30th, when a light air springing up from the east- 
ward, we weighed, at 8.20 A.M., and ran between the islands to the north- 
ward. At one, P.M., the pilots left us off Hoy Head, when all sail was 
made to the westward. 

The latitude of the Martello Tower upon Hackness Point, at the entrance 
of Long-Hope harbour, is, by our observations, 58° 48' 51"; its longitude, 
by chronometers, 3° 00' 09" W.; and the variation of the magnetic needle, 
26° 58’ 30", westerly. The holding-ground is here excellent: this indeed 
is one of the best harbours in the Orkneys, and perhaps in the world, being 
capable of containing a very large fleet of ships in perfect security. In 
Widewall harbour, which is small and affords less shelter, we found the 
ground more loose; it is probably in some parts rocky, as our anchors 
came up so covered with weeds, that we could with difficulty fish them. 
The latitude of the south point of the entrance, by a single observation, is 
58° 48’ 25"; the longitude by chronometers, 2° 55’ 27"; and the variation, 
27° 32' 08", westerly. 

At ten P.M., we passed two miles to the southward of the remarkable 
islets called the Stack and Skerry, having steered N.W. by W., by compass, 
(or N. 88° W. true,) from Hoy Head, from which headland they are certainly 
distant fourteen or fifteen leagues, instead of ten, as laid down in most of 
the charts. Passing in sight of the islands of Bara and Rona, we continued 
our course, with a fresh and favourable breeze, to the westward. 

On the 7th of June, being in lat. 57° 30’, long. 34° 29', we tried the 
current, by a boat moored in the usual manner with an iron pot, but none 
was perceptible. On this and the preceding day we saw, for the first 
time, large flocks of Shearwaters, (procellaria puffinus,) called by the Green- 
land sailors Cape hens, as being usually met with only in the neighbour- 
hood of Cape Farewell. The birds we met with about the Cape were, 
besides shearwaters which disappeared immediately after passing it, the 
fulmar petrels, (procellaria glacialis,) kittiwakes, (larus rissa,) looms, (uria 
brunichii,) dovekies, (colymbus grylle,) rotges, (alca alle,) a few terns, 
(sterna hirundo,) and a flock or two of ducks, of which the species was 
uncertain. 

On the 8th at noon, being in lat. 57° 33’, long. 37° 48', the tempera- 
B 2 


si 
hu 


Frid. 8. 


a I ee ele 


1821, 
June. 
wi~! 


Sat. 9. 


Thur, 14. 


Mon. 18, 


4 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY. 


ture of the sea-water, at four hundred and sixty fathoms below the sur- 
face, was found, by Six’s thermometer, to be 40°.7, that of the surface 
being 454°, and of the air, 463°. A number of bottle-nose whales were 
about the ships. 

On the 9th, we saw a bird much resembling a fulmar petrel in shape, but 
differing in plumage from any we had before remarked, its general colour 
being a dark-brown, with a white stripe extending completely across the 
wings, along the tips of the wing-covers, both above and below. 

After entering Davis’ Straits, we had for several days variable and un- 
settled weather, the wind blowing principally from the southward, with a 
heavy swell from the same quarter. On the 14th, we met with the first ice- 
berg, being in lat. 60° 48’, long. 53°13’. On the following day, the tem- 
perature of the sea, at the depth of four hundred and sixty fathoms, was 
found, by Six’s thermometer, to be.40°, that of the surface being 40§°, and of 
the air 41$°. While in the entrance of Davis’ Strait, we met with two or three 
small pieces of drift-wood on different days; they appeared to be of fir, 
and to have been a considerable time in the water, though not at all worm: 
eaten. 

Soon after daylight, on the 18th, we passed a quantity of loose ive, such as 
usually occurs at a little distance from the main body. We came to the edge 
of the ‘“ pack” in the course of the forenoon and, finding here a consider- 
able swell, tacked off and on till the water should become smoother, being 
at noon in lat. 60° 50' 12", long. 62°08’ 30". On the day before we made 
thie ice, we had observed a great number of looms as well as fulmar petrels 
about the ships. On reaching its margin, we found, besides these, large 
flocks of phalaropes, (phalaropus platyrinchus,) rotges, dovekies, and one or 
two of snow-buntings, (emberiza nivalis,) the latter attended by their enemy 
the hawk, (falco peregrinus). The temperature of the sea-water had de- 
creased pretty gradually from 40° on the morning of the 17th, to 34° on that 
of the 18th, previously to our making the ice ; after which it soon fell to 32° 
and 30°, being its usual stxndard in the neighbourhood of a body of ice, 
during the summer months. 

Having now reached the situation in which I was directed, by my instruc- 
tions, to clear the Nautilus of our stores, I was desirous immediately to 
commence this work, in order to be ready for the opening of the ice in 
Hudson's Strait, which might be expected to occur in a few days. There 
being a number of bergs in sight, I determined to anchor the ships to 


& 
8 
ae 
ie 
3 
a 
. 
ia 


Nee Sans 


ae aR Rae a Tp aT 


caer 


ie 
Bi 
4 
4g 


ee aaa Slaten = 


le sur- 
urface 
; were 


ye, but 
colour 
ss the 


1d un- 
with a 
‘st ice- 
> tem- 
S, Was 
and of 
‘three 
of fir, 
worm: 


ich as 
edge 
sider- 
being 
made 
etrels 
large 
ne or 
nemy 

de- 
) that 
0 32° 
f ice, 


ptruc- 
y to 
e in 
here 
bs to 


2 
‘ae 
a 
ry 
i 
* 
es 


See aes Aas 


ey ak er aa 


Fury, at Sea, during the Month of June, 1821. 


ABSTRACT of the METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL kept on board His Majesty’s Ship 


Temperature of Air 
in shade. 


Day}! Place. | Maxi- | Mini- 
pane | ses 

i] | 453 +9 
2ii|s 53 | 50 
3||S || 53 | 49 
alll 53} | 50 
5 8 4 52 | 49 
6|i|.22 || 50 | 4 
7 23 51 | 48} 
8 on 48 44 
9 . 45 | 40 
|| || ag] a 
ull{s 42 | 38 


8 NSREBBRBESSESN are wR 
SSS eeauanamamnm EE 
of the ice, off the entrance 
& 8s 86 & & 
8 seeese28 


eo 
Davis’ Strait. 
S 
8 


At the entrance to 


to Hudson's Strait. 


28 


Close to the margi 
8 
S$ 


30 


533} 30 


Sea Water at 


Maxi- 
mune 


mum. | Mean, 


inches | inches 


30.20) 29.90 
29.91) 29.78 29.837 
29.75) 29.70 29.717 


29.67, nis wale: 


29.45 sii ainsi 
29.93) 29.48 29.710 


30.00} 29.68 29.818 
29.68) 29.59:29.627 
29.98 op raise 
29.48 ge ie 
29.72] 29.31/20.558 
20.26] 28.96.29.035 
29.66 28.98'29.320 
29.81] 20.72:20.775 
29.71] 29.64129.654 
29.54] 29.13 20.302 
29.74] 20.23/29.570 
29.87] 20.78120. 832 
30.03] 29.88 29.982 
30.10] 30.03/30.053 
30.21) 30.11/30.167 
30.00] 29.11/29.143 
29.67] 29.20,29.522 
20.92) 20.50)29.670 
30.16} 30.00.30. 105 
30.12] 20.92/29.973 
29.95] 20.89,29.908 
30.15 id el 
30.23] 30.17/30.192 


30.03 2.0.26 
| 


40.45 || 39.36 $0.23 | 28.96 |29.729 


surface. | Barometer. | 


Prevailing 
Winds. 


Directicn, 


SE 
SSE 
EbS 
E4S 
EbN 


North 


AM. NbE 
PM. SE 


South 
SSW 


SW 
AM. SE 
PM. SSW 
SWbW 


AM. SE 
PM. SSW 


NWbW 
SSW 
SWbw 


SEDE 


AM. NNE 
PM. NW 


West 
West 
West 
WSW 
SE 
WSW 
SW 
SSW 
SSE 
SSE 
WNW 
NNW 


modt. 
modt, 
modt, 
modt. 
modt. 
modt, 
light 
modt, 
fresh 
modt. 
strong 
fresh 
light 
strong 
light 
light 
fresh 
fresh 
modt. 
light 
modt, 
modt. 
strong 
fresh 
strong 
light 
modt. 
fresh 
light 


modt. 


‘acti 


| Prevailing 


Weather, 


fine 
hazy and rain 
ditto 
ditto 
ditto 
hazy 
foggy 
hazy and rain 
rain in squalls 
cloudy 
rain in squalls 
rain in squalls 
hazy and rain 
hazy and rain 
cloudy 
fine 
rain in squalls 
hazy, rain & snow 
fine 
fine 
cloudy 


hazy 


hazy, snow, rain 
and hail 


fine 
fine and clear 
fine and clear 
foggy 
foggy and rain 
cloudy 
cloudy 


I enemas men nt Lert i aI 


1821, 
July, 
we 


Sun. 1. 


Mon, 2. 


6 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


one of them for this purpose, whenever the wind and weather would permit. 
So unfavourable, however, did these prove, and so often were we interrupted 
by the closing of the ice upon the ships, that little progress could be made in 
our work for several days. The difficulty of accomplishing this was consider- 
ably increased by the attention necessary to keep the Nautilus from injury, 
which, however, the strenuous exertions of Lieutenant Scrymgour and his 
people happily effected, and the removal of the stores was completed by the 
evening of the 30th; when, having sent our despatches and letters on board 
the Nautilus, and made every other arrangement, I gave Lieutenant Scrym- 
gour his instructions to return to England; and at one A.M. on the Ist of 
July, he parted company, while the Fury and Hecla stood in towards the 
ice. A whaler, deeply laden, and apparently homeward bound, was at this 
time in sight to the eastward. 

Towards noon we made the ice, being in lat. 62° 08' 37”, long. 62° 22' 49”, 
and ran along its edge, keeping as much to the westward as the trending 
of it would allow. We thus continued to run through “ sailing ice” all 
night, till, having by the chronometers nearly reached the longitude as- 
signed to Resolution Island, and the weather becoming thick, we hove to 
on the morning of the 2d, to await the fog’s clearing away, that we might 
see the land. Finding soon afterwards that the ships drifted considerably, 
the wind being fresh from the eastward, or directly towards the shore, we 
made fast to an iceberg for better security. On the wcather clearing up about 
noon, we found ourselves close to Resolution Island, which bore from S. 21° E. 
to S. 77° W. a very remarkable piece of land called by our fishermen, on 
account of its peculiar appearance, the “ Black Bluff,” being distant from us 
five or six miles. Our latitude by account, at this time, was 61° 59/49”, 
and long. 64° 47’ 50", the soundings being one hundred and sixty-four 
fathoms, on a rocky bottom. The greater part of this land was now clear 
of snow, which, however, still filled many of the valleys, and, together with 
the fog that hung over it, rendered the scene before us indescribably dreary 
and disagreeable. It requires a few days to be passed amidst scenes of this 
nature, to erase, in a certain degree, the impressions left by more animated 
landscapes ; and not till then, perhaps, does the eye become familiarized, 
and the mind reconciled, to prospects of utter barrenness and desolation such 
as these rugged shores present. 

Some clear water appearing to the southward, we made sail along the 


island in that direction, passing a great many ice-bergs, of which Captain ° 


yermit. 
rupted 
ade in 
nsider- 
injury, 
nd his 
by the 
. board 
Scrym- 
Ist of 
‘ds the 
at this 


22’ 49”, 
ending 
‘e”’ all 
ide as- 
10ve to 
might 
rably, 
re, we 
about 
21°R. 
n, on 
OM US 
9’ 49", 
y-four 

clear 
r with 
dreary 
of this 
mated 
rized, 

such 


g the 


ptain * 


¥ 
oe 
= 


ieee 


Sa ose 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 7 


Juyon counted fifty-four in sight at one time. Some of these were of large 
dimensions, their height above the sea being not less than two hundred 
fect. In passing one of them, which was aground, at three P.M., we ob- 
served the flood running past it to the W.S.W.,, at the rate of two or two 
and a half knots. At six o’clock the ice became so close that we could no 
longer make any progress, and the tide carrying us soon after towards a 
large berg aground in ninety fathoms, while the drift ice threatened to 
enclose us betwixt them, we ran under the lee of the berg and, by great 
exertion in the boats, succeeded in getting a line fasttoit. The eddies and 
whirlpools, however, caused by the tide running at the rate of four or five 
knots, rendered the ships perfectly unmanageable, and the ice closing round 
us before a hawser could be run out, the line was soon snapped, and the ships 
carried towards the land, the boats having with difficulty been got on board 
and hoisted up. 

We lay closely beset, though drifting rapidly about with the tides, during 
the night; and, early on the morning of the 3d, the ice gradually slack- 
ing about us, we succeeded in getting into clear water, and continued our 
progress without obstruction, at the distance of ten or twelve miles from 
the land. Within this the ice was closely packed in one impenetrable body 
the whole way to the shore, and the same to the southward and eastward, 
leaving a navigable channel, four or five miles in breadth, leading towards 
the entrance of Hudson’s Strait. 

These favourable appearances, however, continued only till seven P.M., when 
the ice opposed our further progress to the westward, covering the whole 
sea as far as the eye could reach in that direction; the ships were, there- 
fore, of necessity hove to, inorder to await some change in our favour. The 
tide appeared to have been setting to the eastward from noon till six P.M., 
about which time it turned in the opposite direction, and, soon after we had 
hove to, the ships were carried by it into the ice which formed their present 
impediment, at the rate of more than three miles an hour, and were quickly 
beset by other pieces of ice drifting in upon them from the eastward. The 
ice here consisted principally of large, though loose, masses of broken floes, 
none covering more than a quarter of an acre, and few so much, but 
having many high hummocks, and drawing a great deal of water. We 
counted also above thirty bergs in sight at one time, and observed that 
many of them were carried about by the tides with great rapidity. 

At a quarter past midnight the westerly tide slackened ; and the ice, soon 


1821, 
July. 
Law 


Tues. 3. 


1821. 
July. 
aw 


Thurs. 5. 


Frid. 6. 


8 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


after, began to drift back in an E.N.E. direction at the same rate as before. 
We remained beset the whole of this day, driving very near some bergs which 
lay in our way, but unable to move the ships in any direction. We were, at 
noon, in lat. 61° 13' 05", longitude by chronometers 64° 05' 10". The wea- 
ther being foggy, no land was in sight. Besides the above observations, some 
were also obtained for the dip of the magnetic needle, which was 83° 58’ 51”, 
and for the irregularities occasioned by local attraction ; these are inserted in 
the Appendix. Abundance of fine fresh water was found upon the large pieces 
of floe-ice to which the ships were fast, and this opportunity was, as usual, 
taken to fill as much as we required, as well as to wash the ships’ com- 
panies clothes. 

A fresh breeze from the W.S.W. springing up on the morning of the 5th, 
accompanied by clearer weather, we cast off to try what could be done, and 
succeeded in pushing the ships in-shore, where we found a “ lane” of tolerably 
open water, owing to the ebb-tide having sct the ice offin a body. As this 
tide was now a lee one, however, we could with difficulty keep the ships to 
windward under a press of sail; and, as soon as we had come to the end of 
the lane, were under the necessity of driving back to the eastward, the 
little distance we had gained. We had now only advanced within five or six 
miles of the south point of Resolution Island, which, by our observations, 
lies in lat. 61° 20’ 40", long. 64° 55'15”. The former of these, which 
is the result of several meridian altitudes, is eight miles to the southward of 
the position usually assigned to this headland in the charts. A league or 
two to the eastward of this, we observed two openings having the appear- 
ance of harbours, which I should have been glad to examine, but that I had 
found the flood-tide always set directly in towards the land for the first or 
second quarter, As this was now about to make, it became necessary to 
the safety of the ships to gain an offing, in order to interpose some ice be- 
tween thei. wc the shore. We accordingly stood off for a few miles, and 
then made fast to a floe-piece, just as the ice came crowding back from the 
eastward with the flood-tide. The stream of the ebb ran, in the offing, till 
seven o'clock this evening, and we could perceive that it remained slack for 
a very short time. 

The wind shifted to the south-eastward in the course of the night, with a 
strong breeze and heavy rain; and, on the following morning, when the 
ebb-tide opened the ice a little, a considerable swell was admitted from the 
sea, causing the ships to strike violently and almost constantly on the 


before. 
3 which 
vere, at 
ie wea- 
3, some 
58’ 51”, 
rted in 
pieces 
usual, 
s’ com- 


he 5th, 
ne, and 
lerably 
As this 
hips to 
end of 
d, the 
» Or six 
ations, 
which 
ard of 
gue or 
ppear- 
I had 
rst or 
ary to 
ce be- 
s, and 
bm the 
g, till 
ck for 


ith a 
n the 
m the 

the 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 9 


masses of ice alongside of them. In this situation they continued for seve- 
ral hours so completely beset as to render it impossible to extricate them, 
and drifting about at random with the tides. The Hecla was, by a different 
set of the stream, separated five or six miles from the Fury, while both 
ships were equally hampered. 

The effects to be apprehended from exposure to the swell of the main 
ocean constitute the peculiar danger of first entering the ice about the 
mouth of Hudson’s Strait, which is completely open to the influence of tie 
whole Atlantic. A very inconsiderable quantity of loose ice is sufficient to 
shelter a ship from the sea, provided it be closely packed; but when the 
masses are separated by wind or tide, so as to admit the swell, the concus- 
sions soon become too violent for a ship, strengthened in the ordinary way, 
to withstand for any length of time. On this account, it is prudent not to 
enter the ice without a fair prospect of getting seven or cight leagues within 
the margin. For the same reason, also, when likely to be besct near the sea, 
it is better to make a ship fast to small than to large pieces, in order to avoid 
the heavier concussions occasioned by the latter. 

A thick fog prevailed during most of the day, with only occasional 
intervals of clear weather. Soon after noon, we suddenly found ourselves 
close to a large berg, of which there were many about us, and which are 
dangerous neighbours in so rapid a tide-way. The ice near us being fortu- 
nately slack at this time, a light air of wind, with the boats a-head, enabled 
us to get clear of it. Those bergs which were not aground we observed to 
drift to and fro with each tide, fully twice as fast and, consequently, twice 
as far as the masses of field-ice; which circumstance seems to shew that the 
stream must extend very far below the surface, many of these immense 
bodies being from fifty to ninety feet above the surface of the sea and 
reaching, probably, almost as many fathoms below it. The bergs which thus 
drive about are, however, less dangerous to approach than those aground, 
against which a ship is liable to be carried with the whole force of the tide. 

The fog suddenly clearing away, at 6 P.M., we found ourselves close 
under Resolution Island, though we could obtain no soundings with one 
hundred and ten fathoms of line. In standing off we were soon again en- 
veloped in fog and, being once more beset as soon as the flood-tide made, 
were drifted about during the night, without knowing in what direction we 
went, The weather again clearing up for a short tine, on the evening of 


1821. 
July. 
aw 


the 7th, we found, to our great surprise, that the Hecla had drifted eleven Sat. 7, 


Cc 


Rea 


i 10 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 
a 1821. or twelve miles to the westward of us, though still beset in the ice. This 
HE July. circumstance appeared the more extraordinary, as the ships had been close 


together only a few hours before, and shews in a very striking manner 
the irregularity of the tides in this neighbourhood. In the afternoon, an 
i | attempt was made to join the Hecla; but a gale coming on from the south- 
4 ward and westward, with the same thick weather as before, we were soon 
| set fast again among heavy masses of floe-ice. The soundings were from 
one hundred and forty to one hundred and fifty-five fathoms, upon a hard 
rocky bottom, at the distance of about three leagues from the land. Some 
water brought up, in the course of the day, from one hundred and ninety 
fathoms, was at the temperature of 32°, that of the surface being 31°, and of 
bi the air 33}°. 
ft Sun.8 Early on the morning of the 8th, an opportunity offered of getting into a 
Jane of clear water, which here, from the rapidity of the tides, often forms 
| and disappears again with astonishing quickness. On standing towards the 
Hecla, which was still beset, I was informed by telegraph that she had 
suffered no material injury, except in the loss of a bower anchor, which was 
broken off in the shank by a heavy blow from a mass of ice. In the course of 
i}! this day, however, she narrowly escaped a much more serious disaster, being 
carried by the ice within two hundred yards of the shore, and close to 
several rocks lying off it, and neariy swept into a dangerous inlet. In 
this situation, all that could be done was to endeavour to warp round the 


a | large floe piece to which she was attached; but this attempt was completely 4 
a | frustrated by the floe always turning as soon as any strain was thus put upon 5, 
it. In this perilous situation she remained for several hours, after which, a 


by great exertions, she succeeded in getting out of the ice, and rejoined us 

in the evening. The weather was beautifully clear during the whole of this 

day, though the wind was from the southward, and sometimes a point or 4 

ue two to the eastward of south. For the first time, also, since we came 7 
off Hudson’s Strait, for we had scarcely yet entered it, a large space of 3 
water remained open during the whole of the flood-tide, so that we were 
enabled to r:‘vance a league or two farther to the westward than before. 

Mon. 9. Early on the morning of the 9th, however, the ice again closed in upon 
us, and we remained immoveably beset for a week, during which time, ; 

to prevent separation, the ships were made fast to the same floe-piece, = 

i and were found to drift from one to four or five miles to the southward ; 

daily, and rather to the westward. It was, however, a matter of agreeable 


This 
1 close 
1anner 
on, an 
south- 
> soon 
2 from 
a hard 
Some 
ninety 
and of 


‘into a 
forms 
ds the 
ie had 
ch was 
urse of 
being 
ose to 
rt. In 
nd the 
pletely 
t upon 

hich, 
hed us 
of this 
int or 

came 
ACe of 
were 
efore. 
upon 
time, 
piece, 
ward 
eable 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. Il 


surprise to us to find the masses of ice so quiet among themselves as to give us 1821, 


no disturbance ; a circumstance that seemed to indicate a greater regularity 
in the set of the tides near the centre of Hudson’s Strait, carrying the 
whole of the ice along in one body, instead of producing the violent 
cross-sets which we had experienced in-shore. In the middle of the strait 
we could obtain no soundings with three hundred fathoms of line. The 
sea-water was frequently brought up in Dr. Marcet’s bottle from different 
depths below the surface, when its temperature was found to be as follows : 


Depth Air Air 

DAY. Time. Pati. — Water Shade. Bu ne 
July 9 8 A.M. 253 32 8 31 34 _ 
» 10 Noon. 243 34 325 37 60 
» 12 Noon. 320 33 30.7 404 44 
» 1s 4P.M. 310 33 31 42 82 
» 4 8 P.M. 313 31 31 35 ~ 
Pe 8 A.M. 315 32.8 31 35 a 
» 19 11.30 A.M. 118 32 34 45 ~ 
» 2l 4 P.M. 106 314 34 44 _ 


July. 
ww 


On the 13th, both ships’ companies were exercised in firing at a target Frid. 13. 


on the ice, as well for the purpose of giying them occupation, as of 
finding out who were our best shots. On the same afternoon, we saw 
two ships beset to the northward, which we supposed to be those bound 


to the Hudson’s Bay factories. They were joined the next day by a Sat. 14. 


third ship, which afterwards proved to be, as we conjectured, the Lord 
Wellington, having on board settlers for the Red River. The ice being 


somewhat more slack about the ships on the 15th, we cast off and made Sun. 15. 


sail at nine P.M.; but after running with difficulty about a mile to the 
W.bN., we were obliged to make fast to a small berg near us. Here we 
remained till eleven P.M., the wind blowing a gale from the N.E., when 
the ice closing in suddenly and violently to leeward of the berg, forced 
the ships against it, and was near carrying away the Hecla’s bowsprit by 
the pressure. The Fury also received a heavy “ nip,” which, lifting her 
abaft, made her timbers crack a good deal about the quarters, but no material 
injury was sustained. To avoid, however, a repetition of this occurrence, 
we cast off, and allowed the ships to take their chance among the loose 
ice for the rest of the night, which was dusky about midnight. 

The ice being rather less close on the morning of the 16th, we made sail 

ce2 


1821. 
July. 


wre 
Mon. 16, 


Tues. 17. 


Wed. 18. 


12 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


to the westward, at 7.45 A.M., and continued “boring” in that direction 
the whol: day, which enabled us to join the three strange ships. They 
proved to be, as we had supposed, the Prince of Wales, Eddystone, and 
Lord Wellington, bound to Hudson’s Bay. I sent a boat to the former, to 
request Mr. Davidson, the master, to come on board, which he immediately 
did. From him we learned that the Lord Wellington, having on board 
one hundred and sixty settlers for the Red River, principally foreigners, 
of both sexes and every age, had now been twenty days among the ice, 
and had been drifted about in various directions at no small risk to the 
ship. Mr. Davidson considered that he had.arrived here rather too early 
for advancing to the westward, and strongly insisted on the necessity 
of first getting to the northward, or in-shore, before we could hope to make 
any progress ;—a measure, the expediency of which is well known to all 
those accustomed to the navigation of icy seas. By the Prince of Wales 
we sent our last letters for our friends in England; and I took the same 
opportunity to acquaint the Secretary of the Admiralty with the proceedings 
of the Expedition up to this date. 

On the 17th, the weather was beautifully fine and warm with very little 
wind. A thermometer exposed to the sun’s rays on board stood, at noon, 
as high as 81°; on a pole on the ice it was at 60°; and in the shade from 
41° to 43°. The horizon was very much distorted by refraction in all direc- 
tions, causing the ice to assume a great variety of fantastic shapes, but 
generally appearing like a high wall, consisting of innumerable perpendicu- 
lar cohunns, and completely surrounding us. Our latitude observed at 
noon was 61° 09’ 17"; the longitude, by chronometers, being 67° 11' 10"; 
and we had soundings in three hundred and forty fathoms on a rocky bottom. 
Grass or Green Island time, bore from S. 27° W., to S. 46° W., its distance 
being from three to five leagues, but uncertain, on account of the extra- 
ordinary appearance given to it by refraction. The state of the ice being 
rather more favourable in the afternoon, we made sail to the northward 
in company with the Hudson’s Bay ships, and had, on the following day, 
made some progress towards a remarkable headland called the East Bluff. 
A few leagues to the westward of this is a smooth part of the land, rather 
higher than that in its neighbourhood and, for an extent of one or two 
miles, completely covered with snow. The snow remains upon it, as Mr. 
Davidson informed us, the whole summer, as they find the land presenting 
the same appearance on their return through the strait in the autumn, 


-ction 
They 
» and 
er, to 
iately 
board 
ners, 
e ice, 
o the 
early 
essity 
make 
to all 
Vales 
same 
dings 


little 
oon, 
from 
irec- 
, but 
dicu- 
d at 
10"; 
tom. 
ance 
Xtra- 
eing 
ward 
day, 
Bluff. 
ather 
two 
Mr. 
ting 
umn, 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 13 


This circumstance, which has obtained for it the name of “Terra Nivea” 3821. 
upon the charts, I do not know how to account for, as the height of the land ie 
above the level of the sea cannot certainly much exceed a thousand feet. 
At eight A.M., on the 20th, we cast off and made sail, the ice consisting Frid. 20. 
of heavy loose masses, generally open enough to allow a ship to sail be- 
tween them, if favoured by a commanding breeze. The tides here gave us 
no sort of disturbance, nor could we perceive exactly in what direction 
they set. The weather was extremely clear and the atmosphere warm and 
comfortable. A thermometer, freely suspended in the sun, at two P.M., 
stood at 74°; when placed upon some black-painted lead, on deck, at 116°; 
and in the shade, at 45°. 
Proceeding slowly to the westward, we had reached at noon on the 21st Sat. 21. | 
the lat. of 61° 50’ 13”, long., by chronometers 67° 07’ 35”. In this situation 
several islands were in sight to the northward and westward, and, among the 
rest, a remarkable one called Saddle-back on account of itsshape. The wind 
backing to the westward in the afternoon, we anchored the ships to the 
largest floe-piece we could find, there not being room to beat to windward. 
While thus employed we heard voices in-shore, which we soon knew to be 
those of some Esquimaux coming off to us. Shortly after, several canoes made 
their appearance ; and seventeen of these people came alongside the Fury. 
Having hauled their kayaks (canoes) upon the floe, they began to barter 
their commodities, consisting of seal and whale blubber, whale-bone, spears, 
lines, and the skins of the seal, bear, fox, deer, and dog. Our first endea- 
vour was to procure as much oil as possible, of which, as we had been in- 
formed by the Hudson’s Bay ships, several tons are thus almost annually 
obtained from these people. We soon found that they .had been well 
accustomed to bargain-making, for it was with some difficulty that we 
could prevail upon them to sell the oil for any thing of reasonable value. 
They frequently gave us to understand that they wanted saws and har- 
poons in exchange for it, and as these were articles which we could not 
spare, it was not without trouble that we obtained, in the course of the even- 
ing, two barrels of blubber in exchange for several knives, large nails, and 
pieces of iron hoop, which was certainly a dear bargain on our side, If they 
saw more than one of these at a time, they would try hard to get the whole 
for the commodity they were offering, though, when we had for some time 
persisted in refusing, they would not only accept what was offered, but jump 
for joy at having obtained it. They always licked the articles given them, 


14 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


1821. and in one instance cnly did we notice any inclination to break the contract 
Be after this process had been gone through. 

Shortly after these men had arrived, a large oomiak, or women’s boat, made 
its appearance, containing six or seven females and four men, the oldest of 
the latter, as seemed usual among them, steering the beat with a rude oar 

hd of wood. The women could not be induced to land upon the floe, but held 

Ha up skins and small narrow strips of well-tanned leather to exchange, loudly 

Tae Ee vociferating pilletay (give me) the whole time. There were in this boat seve- a 

| if ral skins of oil and blubber, which 1 tried hard to purchase, but nothing 4 
i] 


could induce the old man to part with more than one skin of it ; for what _ 
reason I could not tell, except that he hoped, by perseverance, to obtain a 
b |e higher price. On my desiring our men to hand out a second skin of oil, as 
i an equivalent for which I put into the old man’s hand a second knife, he re- 
| | i ' ' sisted most vehemently, pushing our men aside in the boat with a violence I : 
ole have never seen the Esquimaux use on any other occasion. One of the 4 
| younger men then came forward and was lifting up the stretcher of their 4 
| boat to strike our people, who were good-humouredly laughing at the old q 

i man’s violence ; when I thought it high time to interpose, and, raising a boat- 
| ad hook over the head of the Esquimaux, as if about to r“rike them, soon brought y 
| Gh them into a cooler mood’; after which, to prevent further altercation, I or- 
| Hi! | dered our people out of the boat. We had, by this time, succeeded in pur- 
| 


a chasing all the oil brought by the first canoes, and as the old fellow, who was 
‘ ih commanding officer of the oomiak, obstinately persisted in his refusal to sell 

| i his, I ordered him away, when he immediately rowed to the Hecla and, as a 
ah I was afterwards informed by Captain Lyon, sold his oil for less than he a 


might have obtained at first. Four other oomiaks afterwards came from the 4 
shore, from which we were distant five or six miles. Each of these contained aq 
mi from fourteen to twenty-six persons, the majority being females and young 
children. Upon the whole, not less than one hundred of the natives visited [ 
the ships in the course of the evening. a 

These people possessed in an eminent degree the disposition to steal all a 
they could lay their hands on, which has almost universally been imputed 
to every tribe of Esquimaux hitherto visited by Europeans. They tried, more 
than once, the art of picking our pockets, and were as bold and unembar- 
rassed as ever, immediately after detection. It is impossible to deseribe the 
horribly disgusting manner in which they sat down, as soon as they felt 
hungry, to eat their raw blubber, and to suck the oil remaining on the skins 


a 


ee 


ntract 


, made 
lest of 
le oar 
t held 
loudly 
t seve- 
othing 
> what 
tain a 
oil, as 
he re- 
ence I . 
of the 4 
’ their 4 
1e old 
. boat- 
rought 

I or- 
n pur- 
10 Was 
‘io sell 
nd, as 
an he 
m the a 
ained q 
young 
isited 


al all a 
puted a 
‘more 
mbar- 
ye the E 
ry felt 4 
skins a 


OO i a 


op a a ee ee 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 15 


we had just emptied, the very smell of which, as well as the appearance, 
was to us almost insufferable. The disgust which our seamen could not 
help expressing at this sight seemed to create in the Esquimaux the most 
malicious amusement ; and when our people turned away literally unable 
to bear the sight without being sick. they would, as a good joke among 
themselves, run after them holding out a piece of blubber or raw seal’s 
flesh, dripping with oil and filth, as if inviting them to partake of it. Both 
the men and women were guilty of still more disgusting indecencies, which 
seemed to afford them amazing diversion. A worse trait even than all 
these was displayed by two women alongside the Hecla, who, in a manner 
too unequivocal to be misunderstood, offered to barter their children for 
some article of trifling value, beginning very deliberately to strip them of 
their clothes, which they did not choose to consider as included in the in- 
tended bargain. 

Upon the whole, it was impossible for us not to receive a very unfavourable 
impression of the general behaviour, and moral character, of the natives of 
this part of Hudson’s Strait, who seem to have acquired, by an annual inter- 
course with our ships for nearly a hundred years, many of the vices which 
unhappily attend a first intercourse with the civilized world, without having 
imbibed any of the virtues or refinements which adorn and render it happy. 


Early on the. morning of the 22d, a number of canoes repeated their visit Sund.22. 


to us, the Esquimaux having hauled them upon a piece of ice to lodge for the 
night. In the forenoon, an oomiak also came from the shore, and as no in- 
tercourse with them was permitted till after divine service, they became very 
impatient to barter their commodities, and walked on the ice alongside the 
ship, with a number of trifling things in their hands, vociferating “ pilletay” 
to such a degree that we could hardly hear ourselves speak. Some more oil 
was obtained in exchange for pieces of iron hoop, and, at a quarter before 
noon, the wind coming more to the southward and the ice being somewhat 
less close than before, we cast off and made sail up the strait. 

The wind and ice combined to favour us more and more as we proceeded, 
the former both in strength and direction, and the latter by opening into 
loose streams; so that, for the first time since we entered Hudson’s Strait, 
we were now enabled to set all the studding-sails, with some prospect 
of deriving advantage from them. The Hudson’s Bay ships remained at 
anchor some time after we made sail, and in the course of the evening we 
finally lost sight of them. From this circumstance, as well as from the 


July. 
Pw 


1821. 


ee ee 


Be 


16 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


unimpeded progress we had just began to make to the westward, it was now 
only that we considered our voyage as having fairly commenced. 

At five P.M., we were abreast of Saddleback, which we make in lat. 62° 11’, 
long. 67° 43’; but, having no observations when in its immediate neighbour- 
hood, it is thus laid down by our dead-reckoning only. The small cluster 
of islands to which this belongs is called in the charts the middle Savage 
Islands ; a name by which Mr. Davidson did not know them, nor can I find 
any authority for it, but which may serve to distinguish them as well as any 
other. Though there appeared to be several small openings as if between 
islands along this coast, yet we saw none of any magnitude like that marked 
“« Jackman’s Sound,” in Mr. Arrowsmith’s chart, which we must have plainly 
noticed had it existed as there laid down. The fact is, that the inlet, so 
called by Sir Martin Frobisher in the year 1576, has its only énown entrance 
on the south shore of the strait bearing the name of that navigator, its com- 
munication with Hudson’s Strait being a matter of very doubtful conjecture. 
I believe, indeed, we may safely consider the land, by whatever name it may 
be designated, as continuous the whole way from the East Bluff, as far west- 
ward as North Bay. When abreast of Saddleback, at the distance of five or 
six miles, we had from fifty to sixty fathoms’ water. At half-past four P.M., 
the tide mark upon the grounded ice-bergs was about ten feet, and the 
stream, being that of ebb, was setting strong to the eastward. 

On the morning of the 24th, we found, on standing in-shore, that we were 
off the great opening called North Bay, the largest and highest of the Upper 
Savage Islands*, forming the western point of its entrance. The North 
Bluff, a remarkable promontory, being the eastern point of the large portion 
of nameless land lying immediately above the Savage Islands, appears very 
conspicuous when standing in from the S.S.E. From this headland the 
Hudson’s Bay ships not unfrequently take their departure, and strike off 
more to the westward towards the entrance of the bay ; though this depends, 
in some measure, on the situation of the ice, which is somewhat different at 
the same period of different seasons. It is, however, a general rule with 
them to keep close along the northern shores of the strait, till the openness 


* Under these Islands (‘* the easternmost saving one”) Baffin anchored A. D. 1615, 
and named them the Savage Islands. He describes them as “ having a great sound or 
indraught between the north shore and them,” and lays down his anchorage in latitude 
62° 30’, long., ‘* near 72°.” Our observations place it 2} miles to the northward, and 
1° 52' to the eastward of that position. 


hes 
ae 
( A 
eS 
Bis 
SS 
ioe 
‘G Fs 


aS NOW 


32° 11’, 
hbour- 
cluster 
Savage 
I find 
as any 
etween 
narked 
plainly 
ilet, so 
itrance 
is com- 
ecture. 
it may 
r west- 
five or 
P.M., 
d the 


were 
Upper 
North 
ortion 
Ss very 
d the 
ke off 
bends, 
ent at 
with 
Inness 


1615, 
nd or 
titude 
i, and 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 17 


of the sea offers a prospect of making a fair run to the westward. Mr. Da- 
vidson informed me that, after leaving this shore, they seldom meet with any 
very serious obstruction, except from a body of ice which they usually have 
to penetrate near Charles's Island, and which, from the frequency of its oc- 
currence in that situation, has obtained the name of “ Charles’s Patch.” 
Long experience has brought those who frequent this navigation to the con- 
clusion that, in most seasons, no advantage is to be gained by attempting to 
enter Hudson’s Strait earlier than the first week in July, the annual disruption 
of the ice which occupies the upper and middle parts of the strait being sup- 
posed not to take place till about this time. In the course of our single year’s 
experience in these parts, we have seen nothing to recommend a practice dif- 
ferent from that at present pursued by the ships of the Hudson’s Bay Company. 
In the afternoon, having a contrary wind, against which little progress could 
be made, I landed, at half-past four, upon the easternmost of the Savage 
Islands, accompanied by several of the officers, and was shortly after joined 
by Captain Lyon. The lower parts of this island are ¢::mposed of gneiss and 
granite, and the upper part of mica slate in thin laine, and containing gar- 
nets insome specimens. At the foot of the cliffs. which rise from four to five 
hundred feet above the level of ihe sea, many hire separate masses of granite 
occurred, in which the red feldspar, white quartz, and plates of dark-co'!oured 
mica were large and distinct. Veins also of white quartz, eight or ten inches 
wide, and nearly in a vertical position, traverse the rocks in some parts of the 
island. After making the usual observations for the longitude and variation, 
we ascended to the highest part of the island, which is from six to eight hun- 
dred feet above the sea, in order to take an eye-sketch and angles of the 
surrounding lands. We here counted eleven islands, which may properly 
be considered as belonging to the group called the Upper Savage Islands, 
occupying nearly the whole space between that on which we stood, the 
largest and highest of the whole, #:id the western shore. The south point 
of this island is comparatively low, and appeared to have shoal water off it 
to the distance of half a mile. Captain Lyon here noticed the remains of 
some Esquimaux habitation:, consisting, as usual, of small rude circles of 
rough stones* ; and one iiiiman skull was also found there. We met witha 


* These circles are, in the Narrative of the former Voyage, erroneously called ‘ huts,” 
as we then took :hem to be the remains of the winter habitations of the Esquimaux ; 
whereas, they are exclusively used for extending the skins composing their summer tents. 
D 


SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


18 


ier few picces of drifé fir-wood, some of which having been sawed and others 
\wor~ chipped, shewed that these people were not in want of wood, since they \ 
could thus afford to leave it behind them in no inconsiderable quantity. The 

only animals seen were one hare, which was very dark on the back, a single 
grouse, a bird like a snipe, and some flocks of snow buntings ; but the dung 

of hares was abundant. There was in some places a good deal of vegeta- 

tion, and among the specimens collected, were several of those we had be- 

fore met with in the polar regions, especially the sorrel, (rumex digynus ), 
scurvy-grass, poppy, (papaver nudicaule,) saxifrage, (saxifraga oppositifolia ), 
dwarf willow, and andromeda tetragona, the latter being in flower, and growing 

in great abundance on the higher parts of the island. On the hills were 

some large ponds of water, which poured their streams down the cliffs into 

the sea, through arches formed under the snow with which the sides of the 


Pee 


Laide 


: 
hills were still covered. 

The latitude of our place of observation is 62° 31’ 30", its longitude, by 3 
chronometers, 69° 57’ 17", and the variation of the magnetic needle 52° 37' 04" . 
westerly. When we landed, at forty minutes after four, P.M., the tide had 2 
ebbed about two feet and a half; and at twenty minutes after seven when we : 
left the island, it had fallen thirteen feet more ; from which the whoie fall of 
this tide, though at the dead of the neaps, may be considered as above twenty- 
nine feet. We had hawed our boats up on a smooth inclined rock, but, on 
our return from the hills, had to lower them down ten or twelve feet perpen- q 
dicular. By these observations it was concluded that the time of high water at q 
full and change, was about thirty-five minutes past seven o'clock. The current, 
by a boat moored in the offing, was found to set 8.S.E. } E., three quarters of a 
mile per hour, and as it appears to have been running in the same direction 
| during the whole time that we were on shore, it may be presumed that the 3 
“ ebb tide comes down the bay, or from the northward and westward, The time : 
Leh of high water, deduced from our observations, is about two hours earlier than ‘ 
i that usually marked in the charts. This discrepancy may partly arise from an 
! actual difference to that amount, between the time of high wateron shore, 

. and that of the change of tide in the offing, where itis most common, as well 
as most useful, for seamen in general to observe it. 8 

From the top of the hill we could see land nearly all round the bay ; but ., 
in the middle it was so distant as by no means to give us an idea of its entire . 
continuity, Had it been our business to explore it, the further examination 


7 ee 


SSressa 
= 


de ao 
? 


ao age gs 


1 others 
ce they 
ty. The 
a single 
he dung 
vegeta- 
had be- 
igynis ), 
itifolia ), 
trowing 
ls were 
ffs into 
s of the 


ude, by 
37’ 04" 
ide had 
hen we 
fall of 
wenty- 
but, on 
yerpen- 
rater at 
urrent, 
rs ofa 
rection 
iat the 
he time 
r than 
rom an 
shore, 
ns well 


y ; but 
entire 
nation 


at 


ae 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 19 


would have been attended with no great difficulty, as it was entirely free from ha 
ice, as far as the eye could reach, except one or two bergs, and those of no wre 
very large dimensions. These bodies of ice became less and less numerous 

as we advanced up the strait from Resolution Island, and none were seen after 

we had proceeded a few leagues beyond our present station. 

As soon as we returned on board, all sail was made to windward, the 
breeze being still from the westward and the sea almost free from ice. On 
the 25th we had fog occasionally which, however, cleared away in the after- Wed. 25. 
noon, and at eight P.M., in stretching to the southward, we saw the hills on 
the Labrador coast, from which our estimated distance was cight leagues. 
Having then tacked and stood to the northward fifteen miles and a half by 
the patent log, we considered ourselves cight or nine miles from the north 
shore ; so that the distance across the strait in this part, which is the nar- 
rowest, appears to be very correctly laid down at about sixteen leagues in 
Mr. Arrowsmith’s chart. 

We continued to stand off and on, according to the tides, during the night, Thur. 26. 

which was clear and fine ; and found in the morning that we had gained a 
great deal of ground to the westward, which we continued to do throughout 
the day, though the wind blew steadily against us. The latitude, by observa- 
tion at noon, was 62° 32' 27", the longitude, by chronometers, being 71° 36' 30". 
[In the afternoon we stood well in to the land, in order to obtain good 
angles for the survey. There are, on this part of the coast, several islands 
and small inlets, one of the latter appearing like a harbour, a little to the 
eastward of which we bad ninety-four fathoms at the distance of two miles 
and a half from the shore. A few miles to the westward of this inlet lies a 
high and craggy island, remarkable on account of its yellow sand-like colour, 
by which it may be distinguished from any of the rest of the numerous 
islands. We saw no ice this day, except a few streams here and there, but 
the smoothness of the water indicated our near approach to a larger body 
of it. 

On the 27th, we continued to gain a great deal of ground, the ebb-tides Frid, 27. 
appearing to obstruct us very little. Indeed, from the very entrance of 
Hudson's Strait, but more especially to the westward of the Lower Savage 
Islands, it was a matter of constait surprise to find our dull-sailing ships 
make so much progress, when beating against a fresh wind from the west- 
ward; and I have no doubt of the accuracy of the remark made by our 
D2 


EP ene oe 


20 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


early navigators, that the flood-tides run stronger than the ebbs on this 
wr y coast *. i 
A light air at length springing up from the south-eastward enabled us to z 

make way through the ice, which now once more occurred in great quantities 

in every direction, but the pieces were so loose as easily to allow the passage 

of aship with a free wind. This ice, much of which was covered with sand, 

was so honey-combed and “rotten,” that it appeared in a fair way of being 
entirely dissolved in the course of a few weeks. The current was found to 
ia run §.E.b.E., three quarters of a mile per hour, at nine A.M., or about the 
ye middle of the ebb-tide. For the last week, we had scarcely seen a living 
animal; a glaucous gull, a boatswain, and a few looms, constituting the 
whole that are mentioned in our journals. At two P.M., a thermometer 
| in the sun stood at 87°, and in the shade at 50°. In the evening, the 
land abreast of us, in lat. 634°, long. 72°, became much lower than 
before, and without snow upon any part of it. The unevenness of its gene- 
ral outline gave to it, at times, the appearance of islands, of which there 
| are, in reality, a great number hereabouts, though I have little doubt of the 

| continuity of the land at the back. We continued to run all night through 


a 
z 


Sat. 28. the same kind of ice as before, and, at forty minutes A.M. on the 28th, 

were abreast of five remarkable hillocks or undulations of the land, of which 

the appearance was sketched by Mr. Bushnan.. We sounded frequently at 

| the depth of cighty to one hundred and fifty fathoms, the bottom being 

| extremely irregular. It rained hard for several hours, after which the wea- 
| 


ther cleared up, and the wind came from the northward. The ice being 
now tvo close to sail through with any but a leading wind, the ships were 
made fast to a floe-piece. For two days past, we had observed consider- 
a able ripplings on the water, as if occasioned by a strong tide, and the 

, masses of ice were frequently set in motion on a sudden, without any apparent 
cause, 


* This fact was noticed as early as the time of Luke Fox, who, in the journal of his 
i voyage of 1631, frequently and particularly alludes to it. His account is confirmed in a 
i highly valuable manuscript journal kept by a person of the name of Yourin, who served, 
it seems, as ‘‘ one of the officers on board the Charles, Captain Luke Fox,” on that 
voyage. This journal, which is no less remarkable for its perspicuity and accuracy than 
for the neatness with which it is penned, is in the possession of Lord Mountnorris. By 
his Lordship’s permission a copy of this journal was obtained by Captain Sabine, to whom 
I am indebted for it. 


on this 


dus to 
antities 
yassage 
h sand, 
f being 
und to 
out the 
. living 
ng the 
ometer 
ig, the 
r than 
s gcne- 
h there 
t of the 
hrough 

28th, 
which 
ntly at 

being 
» wea- 

being 
Ss were 
isider- 
d the 

arent 


of his 
ed ina 
served, 
n that 
y than 
s. By 
whom 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 2) 


On the 29th we were off a point of land, having several islands near it, 
and exactly answering the description of that called by Baffin, in the year 
1615, Broken Point, “ it being, indeed, a point of brokenisles.” This head- 
land is memorable on account of a lunar observation made off it by this able 
and indefatigable navigator, giving the long. 74° 05’, which is not a degree to 
the westward of the truth. Here the land turns more to the northward, leav- 
ing a considerable opening in that direction. 

A very light wind, from the wrong quarter, rendered all our exertions 
to get in shore fruitless, a close barrier still intervening between us and 
the open sea. During the first part of the forenoon, we observed the ships 
to be carried with the whole body of ice considerably towards the land, but at 
noon, having moored the small boat to the bottom in one hundred and thirty 
fathoms, the tide was found to run S.b.E., one mile per hour. Our latitude 
observed was 63° 51’ 44", longitude, by chronometers, 74° 02 10’. In 
the evening, our prospect of an immediate release appearing more and more 
hopeless, we were under the necessity of making fast, when we obtained azi- 
muths on the ice, which gave the variation 54° 5l' 58" westerly*. The ice 
was found to have too much motion in azimuth for obtaining the dip, which 
phenomenon now began to acquire great interest. At eight P.M., we once more 
made sail and, after four hours’ labour, the harassing nature of which cannot 
well be described or imagined, succeeded in getting into good sailing ice at 
midnight. The weather being now fine, and the wind becoming more eas- 
terly as well as freshening, we steered under all sail to the W. N. W. 


On the morning of the 30th, however, a fog came on, so thick that, Mon, 30. 


independently of the danger of continuing to run upon a coast, little if at 
all explored before, we also incurred the frequent risk of taking the wrong 
**Jeads” among the ice ; which becoming closer obliged us to heave to, soon 
after six o'clock, and make the ships fast to a floe-piece. At nine A.M, 
the fog clearing off sufficiently to allow us to see a mile or two around, 
we cast off with a fresh breeze from the §.E. b. S., and ran to the north- 


* This result, however, which is deduced from several observations made by different 
observers, is probably about three degrees more than the truth, an error having been 
occasioned by the attraction of the ship, at the distance of 132 yards from the compasses. 
The observations are given in the Appendix, merely to shew the regularity with which 
an alteration took place in this error, occasioned by the motion of the floe to which the 
ship was attached, and the consequent change of the angle at which the ship’s attrac- 
tion acted on the needles, 


22 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 


ward and westward, steering towards the land last seen, which again hove 
wr~ in sight at half-past ten A. M., consisting of several islands, though the 
thickness of the weather might have prevented our seeing any continuous 
line of coast at the back of them. Being at noon in lat. 64°07’, and longitude, ‘ 

by account, 75°11’, we hauled more to the westward, along the land, as ; 

soon as the ice would allow. In passing the westernmost of the islands, : 

all of which are quite low, we carried a depth of from forty-nine to thirty- ‘ 

a) 


nine fathoms, at the distance of six or seven miles. In standing out to 
the southward, the water deepened, though very irregularly, to eighty-four 
fathoms, at the distance of four leagues from the land, where it was necessary 
for us to heave to, the fog coming on again thicker than before, and 
continu‘ug throughout the night. | A number of seals and one sea-horse were 
seen in the course of the day, as well as some fish jumping out of the water, 
{| which the look-out man in the crow’s-nest took to be salmon. 
iH Tues. 31. The weather gradually clearing, on the morning of the 31st, we again saw 
the land to the northward, which still appeared to consist principally of 
Ti : ° islands, along which our course was now directed. At noon, being in latitude, 
iH by account, 64° O1' 30", and long. 75° 48’ 50", we had a near and distinct view 
H | of several of these, at the back of which there still ran a continuous line of 
coast. The islands seemed to form several fine inlets, and the tide in the 
| offing was extremely strong, as appeared by the numerous ripplings on the 
| 


surface of the water, and by our making very little progress for some hours 
with a favourable breeze. As the fog cleared away from the south-western 
horizon, we obtained the first glimpse of Salisbury Island in that quarter. In 
the afternoon, Captain Lyon discovered and made the signal for an Esquimaux 
oomiak coming off from the shore under sail, accompanied by eight canoes. 
ie We tacked to meet them, and lay to for halfan hour, for the purpose of adding 

. to our stock of oil. In this boat were sixteen persons, of which number two 
only were men, an old and a young one, and the rest women and children, 
In the features, dress, and implements of these people, we saw nothing 
different from those of the Esquimaux last described ; but they were better 
Ph behaved than the others, with whom our ships have had more frequent in- 
i} tercourse, . b 
i} if August, We continued, on the Ist of August, to beat to the westward, between 
r ; wees, Nottingham Island and the North Shore, the distance between which is 

4 about four leagues, and the latter fringed with numerous islands. In the = 
course of the morning, several canves and one oomiak came off from the a 


iin hove 
igh the 
1tinuous 
igitude, 
and, as 
islands, 
) thirty- 
y out to 
ity-four 
cessary 
re, and 
se were 
Water, 


lin saw 
ally of 
titude, 
ct view 
line of 
in the 
on the 
» hours 
estern 
er. In 
imaux 
anoes, 
dding 
rtwo 
Idren, 
thing 
etter 
nt in- 


ween 
h is 
1 the 
the 


23 


' 
o 
£8 


Temperature of Air 


rature of S 
Water. 


Mean Tem 


Near the entrance of Hudson’s Strait. 


About the middle of Hudson’s Strait 
and near its northern shores. 


Maxi. 
mume 


inches, 


30.11 
29.80 
29,69 
29.56 
29.72 
29.58 
29.60 
29.91 
29.91 
39.00 
29.96 
29.95 
30.21 
30.21 
39.08 


inches, 


20.83 
29.70 
29.62 


29.36 
29.39 
29.30 
29.36 
29.69 
29,85 
29,92 
29.78 
29.70 
30.00 
30.10 
29.94 
29.86 
20,91 
29.97 
29.93 
29.86 
20.73 
29.62 
29.56 
20.72 
29,82 
20.87 
29.90 
20.70 
29.66 
20.39 
20,31 


a 


| 
50 | 20 | 25.36 | 91.82 | 90.21) 29.30 9.700 | 


Barometer. 


Mean, 


inches, 


29.980 
29.717 


ABSTRACT of the METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL kept on board His Majesty’s Ship 
Fury, at Sea, during the Month of July, 1821. 


Prevailing 
Winds, 


Direction. 


20,670 || North 


20.463 | 
29.582 | 
29.460 | 
20.440 | 


29.827 
29,880 
29,978 
29.867 
29.818 
30.102 
30.177 
39.009 
29,892 


20.042 | 


20.985 
29,949 
29.917 
29.767 
20.722 
29.607 
20.773 
20,828 
20,937 
20,038 
29.818 
20.752 
20.520 
20,438 


Velocity, 


Prevailing 
Weather, 


ate! hazy and snow at 


North times 
North light hazy 
light hazy 
pit pl light hazy 
SWbW_ | modt. hazy 
ait WE, | light Ilthick fog and rain 
in ae, modt.|ithick fog and rain 
hy aon modt.|| fine and clear 
Southerly | light cloudy 
SWbS light fine and clear 
EbN light fine and clear 
our saat ;modt,| hazy and rain 
SbW light fine and clear 
Easterly | light || fine and clear 
NE fresh | cloudy and rain 
NEDN fresh || hazy and rain 
AM UNE light fine and clear 
West modt.'| fine and clear 
* Calm fine and clear 
S Easterly | light fine and clear 
Poy Nie Wa light |] fine and clear 
a WN fresh | cloudy 
NW mode. hazy and rain 
NWbW ait cloudy 
NWbW fresh cloudy 
NNW | modt.| fine 
ld Pay light } fine and clear 
hf peed light || hazy and rain 
NEDN light | fine and clear 
SE fresh | foggy 
Northerly | light thick fog 


1821. 
August. 
ay 


Thurs, 2. 


24 SECOND VOYAGE FOR 'THE DISCOVERY 


mainland, containing about twenty persons, more than half of whom were 
women and children. They brought a little oil, some skin dresses, and 
tusks of the walrus, which they were desirous of exchanging for any trifle 
we chose to give them. They had, also, a number of toys of various kinds, 
such as canoes with their paddles, spears, and bows and arrows, all on a very 
small scale. Many of the jackets of these people, and particularly those of 
the females, were lined with the skins of birds, having the feathers inside ; 
and they had, also, in the boat several other skins in a prepared state, 
taken from the throat of the colymbus glacialis, which splendid bird, though 
we had twice found its skin in possession of the Esquimaux, we had yet 
not met with ourselves. 

Being desirous of ascertaining the time and direction of the tides, which 
run strong between Nottingham Island and the northern land, the current 
was tried several times to-day, about mid-channel, by a small boat moored 
to the bottom, and found to set as follows: 


At 8 A.M., E.b.S., 1 mile per hour. 
— 9.40, E.b.S., ,6 mile. 
—11.15, Slack (low ?) water. 

— Noon, W.N.W., 14 mile per hour. 


The wind backing to the southward in the afternoon, we had a fine run 
along the land, and about ten P.M. had nearly lost sight of Nottingham 
Island, being abreast of three small black-looking islands, which answer 
to the Trinity Islands of Fox. Immediately to the westward of these, the 
land trends very much to the northward, leading towards the ‘“ Farthest” 
of that navigator; so that, our business lying to the westward, and being 
still favoured with a navigable sea and a fair breeze, we soon lost sight 
of that shore altogether. Some dusky clouds, which appeared upon the 
southern horizon this evening, were probably hanging over the Mill Islands. 

After a run of forty miles, during the night, almost without seeing any 
ice, we came, on the morning of the 2d, to a body of it so closely ‘ packed,” 
that we could make no further progress, while the masses'on the outer 
edge were moving so rapidly in various directions, as to occasion us much 
trouble and many violent blows before we could get clear of them. The 
latitude observed at noon was 64° 59' 24”, and the longitude, by chrono- 
meters, 79° 40’. The soundings were one hundred and three fathoms, on 
a bottom of hard rock and shells; but the depth varied, very frequently and 


s 


eet 


i mapeci tee 
ee 


ym were 
es, and 
1y trifle 
is kinds, 
na very 
those of 
inside ; 
d state, 
though 
had yet 


ss which 
current 
moored 


ine run 
ingham 
answer 
se, the 
rthest”’ 

being 
t sight 
n the 
lands. 
g any 
cked,” 
outer 
much 

The 
rono- 
s, on 
ly and 


aw 


Py 


ae 


BEN eee ie 


een see) 


ae 
a 

ES 
ae 


oer 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE, 25 


suddenly, from forty-two to one hundred. The tide was tried twice in the 
course of the day; at 11.30 A.M., it set S.S.W., nearly a knot; and at 
1.10 P.M., N. 50° W., a mile and a half an hour; but the direction of it 
was so irregular, that the ships were frequently hampered, and received 
several heavy blows from the ice in consequence. After standing several 
miles to the northward, along the edge of the ice, without meeting with an 
opening, it began to lead us so much to the castward that we tacked and 
stood back to the W.S.W., to try what could be done by patience and 
perseverance in that quarter. 

The Expedition being now about to enter upon ground not hitherto ex- 
plored, it became necessary for me to decide upon the route it would be 
most advantageous to pursue, for the accomplishment of the principal ob- 
jects pointed out in my instructions. This route being, in a certain de- 
gree, left to my own discretion, I must here interrupt, for a moment, the 
narrative of our proceedings, as well to explain the grounds on which 
my determination rested, as to establish and elucidate the connexion 
between the researches of the present Expedition, and those of former 
navigators. 


1821. 
August. 
way 


ee 


SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


CHAPTER II. 


REVIEW OF THE GEOGRAPHICAL INFORMATION OBTAINED BY THE RESEARCHES OF 
H 4 FORMER NAVIGATORS ON THE COAST OF THE AMERICAN CONTINENT, IN THE NEIGH- 
in| BOURHOOD OF WAGER RIVER-—-DISCOVER AND ENTER THE DUKE OF YORB’S BAY, 
SUPPOSING IT TO BE A PASSAGE INTO THE SEA CALLED THE WELCOME~"LEAVE 
THE DUKE OF YORK’'S BAY, AND PROCEED TO THE NORTH-WESTWARD—PASSAGE OF 
THE FROZEN STRAIT AND ARRIVAL IN REPULSE BAY—-CONTINUITY OF LAND THERE 
—OBSERVATIONS ON SHORE-—-REMARKS CONCERNING THE GEOGRAPHY, TIDES, AND 
NATURAL HISTORY OF THIS PART OF THE CONTINENTAL COAST. 


1821. My instructions directed me to “ penetrate to the westward, through 
Ri, So Hudson’s Strait, until I reached, either in Repulse Bay, or on some other part : 
of the shores of Hudson’s Bay, to the north of Wager River, a part of the coast 
which I should feel convinced to be a portion of the continent of North 
America.” ‘‘ Then to keep along the line of this coast to the northward, 
always examining every bend, or inlet,” &c*, It became, therefore, my first : 
business to inquire to what point the examination of the eastern coast of 4 
North America had already been carried, and its continuity satisfactorily 4 
determined. 
’ ‘The proceedings of the Expedition under the command of Captain 
Middleton, in his Majesty’s ship the Furnace in the year 1742, together with 
the inquiry instituted by the Admiralty on his return, in consequence of the 
representation of Mr. Dobbs, furnish the principal materials for judging of 
this question. The disputes between Mr. Dobbs and Captain Middleton, 
ea which, like most other contests of a similar nature, gave rise to much personal 
iid animosity and virulent invective, have at least served the useful purpose of 
i id pointing out, with all the minuteness which the most determined hostility 
could suggest, the particular parts of Captain Middleton’s conduct, which his 


* Official Instructions, 


apr as eter el ae a oa ca geome 


CHES OF 
= NEIGH- 
KS: BAY, 
—LEAVE 
SSAGE OF 
1D THERE 
DES, AND 


through 
her part 
e coast 

North 
thward, 
my first 
oast of 
actorily 


aptain 
er with 

of the 
ping of 
dleton, 
ersonal 
hose of 
ostility 
hich his 


oS etre uns ager ete ary ea ee 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 27 


accusers considered as lying open to censure or animadversion. It appears, 1821. 


August, 


from the documents laid before the public at the time by the respective GA 


parties*, that Captain Middleton was chargeable with neglect, in having 
quitted certain parts of the coast traversed by him, and which seemed 
likely to afford some outlet to the westward, without determining the 
continuity of the land by actual examination. The first and principal of 
these was Wager Inlet, to which Captain Middleton gave the appellation of 
a river, as subsequent examination has, in fact, proved it to be, and Mr. 
Dobbs that of a strait, leading, as he believed, in the desired direction, 
towards the Pacific Ocean. Wherever the strict and entire examination of 
a coast has been neglected, so as still to leave a doubt respecting its conti- 
nuity, the mind naturally has recourse to all the indications that can be 
collected to supply the place of facts. In the present instance, the direction 
of the tides, the degree of saltness in the sea-water, the presence of whales, 
and other circumstances of minor importance, constituted the chief grounds 
upon which the disputants rested their respective arguments. The direction 
of the flood-tide has, indeed, constantly, and to a certain extent, justly been 
considered as affording an indication of some weight in forming a judgment 
on the spot, respecting the existence or non-existence of a westerly passage. 
To this the attention of Captain Middleton was strongly directed in his official 
instructions, which, in two different places, point out to him the propriety of 
“ meeting the flood-tide,” in order to accomplish the proposed object. And 
in his subsequent endeavour to vindicate his conduct *‘ from the aspersions 
of Arthur Dobbs, Esq.,” it is upon arguments deduced from this phenomenon 
that he has principally laboured to convince the public of the absurdity of 
expecting to find a passage to the westward, through Wager Inlet. In some 
parts of the channel which separates Southampton Island from the coast of 
America, and to which, though erroneously, the name of the Welcome has, 
of late years, been applied, it was understood that the flood-tide set from the 
northward ; and it became, therefore, a matter of real interest to ascertain, 
by ‘“ meeting” it, from what sea it flowed. Now, here it was that Captain 
Middleton and Mr, Dobbs were most at issue ; the former asserting that, in 
his discovery of the ‘Frozen Strait,” through which he actually saw the 
tide of flood coming into the Welcome, the question was solved in a manner 


* A Vindication of the Conduct of Captain Middleton, &c., London, 1743. Dopas’s 
Abstract of Captain Middleton's Journal, &c., London, 1744. 


E 2 


28 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


highly conclusive to every unprejudiced mind; while the latter, fully im- 
pressed with a conviction that the story of the “Frozen Strait was all a 
chimera, as well as every thing that’ Captain Middleton had said “ con- 
cerning that part of the voyage,” confidently insisted on the probability 
of the tide finding its way in through Wager River, or, at least, through some 
arm of the sea communicating with that inlet from the westward. The 
fallacy of this latter opinion was amply proved by the researches of the next 
Expedition under Captains Moor and Smith, who, being sent out for the 
avowed purpose of contradicting or confirming the report of Middleton, 
traced Wager Inlet in their boats, till it was found to terminate in two incon- 
siderable and unnavigable rivers. 

On leaving the Wager, Captain Middleton proceeded to the northward, 
keeping both the American coast and that of Southampton Island in sight, and 
noting their bearings and distance frequently and minutely in his log, as far as 
Cape Hope, in which space no doubt has ever been entertained, either by Mr. 
Dobbs or by any other person, of the complete continuity of the land on the 
American side. I felt perfectly satisfied, therefore, that Cape Hope formed 
a portion of the continent, and that the examination of the coast to the south- 
ward of it would be a needless and unprofitable occupation of our time. 

To the northward of Cape Hope, the land is described by Captain Middle- 
ton as having been observed to turn short round to the westward; but the 
joy and encouragement afforded by this circumstance are said to have been 
soon clouded by finding they had reached a close bay, which prevented 
their further progress in that direction, and which, in consequence, obtained 
the appropriate name of Repulse Bay. It is worthy of particular remark, 
that even this part of the coast has not drawn from Captain Middleton’s 
accusers, who, as well as their commander, had the advantage of being 
eye-witnesses of the whole transaction, a single expression implying a doubt 
of the continuity of the land in Repulse Bay. But the imputation of negli- 
gence or fraud, to which, in particular instances, he appears to have laid 
himself open, has, by a construction not uncommon, been extended to his 
general conduct, throwing an unmerited degree of doubt and uncertainty on 
every part of his labours. On this account, as well as from its geographical 
position, which seemed so favourable for the termination of the American 
continent to the north-castward, has an importance been attached to Repulse 
Bay, even by those who are not the most sanguine on the subject of the 


ote IC hema 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 29 


Hy im- : North-West Passage, which subsequent investigation has proved it not to jg91. 
s all a deserve. August, 
* con- Having, on the considerations detailed above, decided on taking up the 
bability examination of the continental coast, from Cape Hope northwards, it became 
th some a question of scarcely less importance to determine, in the next place, by 
The : what route the Expedition would most quickly be enabled to reach that 
he next point, so as to occupy as much as possible of the present summer, upon 
for the : ground not hitherto explored; and, if practicable, to get fairly on our way 
Idleton, to the westward, along the northern coast of America, before the close of 
) incon- the navigable season. Here it was necessary for me still more carefully to 
balance in my own mind the ocular evidence of Captain Middleton against 
thward, i the speculative reasoning of Mr. Dobbs, the former having asserted that he 
tht, and ; had actually seen a strait intervening between Southampton Island and the : 
as far as , shore to the northward of it, though apparently impracticable on account of 
by Mr. 4 ice; while the latter had written half a volume to prove the strait in question | 
| on the : a fabrication, invented by the Captain for the purpose of deceiving Govern- 
formed : ment, and of favouring the supposed views of the Hudson’s Bay Company, 
 south- 4 his former employers. If Mr. Dobbs’s suspicions were well founded, it 
. ‘ would be necessary for us, by pursuing the known but circuitous route 
iddle- ‘ round the south end of Southampton Island, to sail a distance of one 
but the 2 hundred and seventy leagues from our present station, and above two hun- 
e been 4 dred, in case of failure at the Frozen Strait, in order to reach the point 
vented - where our operations were to commence; whereas, on the supposition of 
btained 3 the existence, and, of course, the practicability, of that passage, the distance 
emark, 4 would scarcely exceed fifty leagues; a difference of no small moment in the 
lleton’s : icy seas. After the most anxious consideration of all this contradictory 
being i evidence, I came to the resolution of attempting the direct passage of the 
h doubt i Frozen Strait; though, I confess, not without some apprehension of the risk 
" negli- ‘i I was incurring, and of the serious loss of time which, in case of failure 
-e laid f either from the non-existence of the strait or from the insuperable obstacles 
to his which its name implies, would thus be inevitably occasioned to the Ex- 
inty on pedition. 
aphical On standing back to the west south-west the ice was found as impenetrable 
herican as before, and the ships were therefore made fast in the best manner we 
epulse . could, to await some alieration in our favour. On the morning of the 3d, Frid. 3. 
of the = we had some heavy rain, although the wind was westerly; but, on its 


veering to the northward, the weather cleared up, and continued beautifully 


1821. 
August. 
wae 


Sat. 4. 


30 


SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


fine for the rest of the day. With the hope of gaining s*e round we 
cast off, but found it impossible to make any progress throw;;: she ice, which, 
though its general body continued closely packed, was, in some par‘s, run- 
ning about in various and even opposite directions, at the rate of two or 
three miles an hour, so as frequently to come in forcible contact with the 
ships, without the possibility of our avoiding it by sailing out of its way. 
The rapidity and irregularity of the tides in this neighbourhood were parti- 
cularly remarked by our early navigators, and, indeed, gave the name to 
Mill Islands, ‘ by reason of grinding the ice.” There can be little doubt 
that this irregularity is principally occasioned by a meeting of the tides 
hereabouts, for there is tolerable evidence of the flood coming from the 
northwarc down the great opening leading to Fox’s Farthest, and which I 
have called Fox’s CuanneL*. This tide, meeting the rapid stream which sets 
from the eastward through Hudson’s Strait, must, of necessity, produce such 
a disturbance as has here been noticed. The current was tried at noon, 
this day, and found to set north by west, three quarters of a mile an hour, 
and at thirty minutes past nine, P.M., it was running to the south-east one 
mile per hour, but which of these was the flood tide we had no means of 
determining. 

At ten A.M., on the 4th, we saw an appearance of land, much raised and 
distorted by refraction, though the weather was fine, and the atmosphere 
apparently clear, from N. 82° E. to S. 53° E., being part of the coast dis- 
covered by Baffin, in the year 1615, and more minutely traced by Fox, in 
1631. At noon we observed in lat. 65° 00'17", the longitude, by chro- 
nometers, being 79° 56’ 55". At this time, the prospect to the westward 
appeared from the crow’s-nest as unpromising, on account of the closeness 
and extent of the ice, as I ever remember to have seen it. Shortly after- 
wards, however, the sea gradually, or rather suddenly, became navigable 
in that direction, the ice separating and, in fact, disappearing in so rapid 
and extraordinary a manner as to astonish even those among us who had 
been the longest accustomed to this navigation, and affording a striking 
example of those sudden changes which, in icy seas, almost teach us never 
to despair of making progress, even under circumstances apparently the 


* Baffin particularly insists on this being the case, both near Trinity Islands, and off 
Southampton Island; and, I think, notwithstanding a contrary opinion held by Fox and 
Yourin, our observations on the tides in this neighbourhood, and subsequently at Winter 
Island, serve to confirm those of Baffin. 


Spaells Reema: ec ISIE Laie eames 


acta ese ER ease TGP ONE ees 


ce 


ind we 
which, 
's, run- 
two or 
ith the 
its way. 
e parti- 
lame to 
e doubt 
ie tides 
rom the 
which I 
‘ich sets 
ice such 
at noon, 
an hour, 
sast one 
neans of 


sed and 
osphere 
ast dis- 
Fox, in 
y chro- 
estward 
oseness 
y after- 
avigable 
so rapid 
ho had 
striking 
As never 
ntly the 


, and off 
Fox and 
t Winter 


es RR DR ALT ne oa 


ip cpaibna dats 
rata 


Bears fea = We aaa ole ne a 


anda Tea RNG eae 


ae 


pS Rane ne OR 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 31 


most unfavourable. We did not fail to take advantage of this alteration, 


and, standing under all sail to the westward, soon made Southampton =~ 


Island. At midnight we had deepened the water to one hundred and five 
fathoms. 


After an unobstructed run of between thirty and forty miles, we were Sun. 5. 


again stopped, and obliged to make fast, on the morning of the 5th, the 
ice becoming gradually closer, and occurring in heavy and extensive floes, 
After divine service had been performed, we again made sail, being in 
lat. 65° 22’ 50”, and longitude, by chronometers, 81° 24’. By dint of a 
good deal of “ boring,” and after receiving a number of very violent 
blows, we succeeded in forcing our way about ten miles nearer the land, 
which appearing not to be continuous in one part, I concluded we were 
near the eastern entrance of the Frozen Strait. But the haze or fog-bank 
which, in these regions, even on days apparently the clearest, often gives 
a distorted appearance to objects at the distance of four or five leagues, 
prevented our making it out distinctly. As it was now impracticable to 
make any further progress, we were under the necessity of submitting 
to that suspense which the increasing intcrest of our situation naturally 
excited. 

Some of the floes in this neighbourhood measured at least half a mile 
each way, being the largest, except one or two, that we had yet met with. 
They were all covered with innumerable “ hummocks,” between which 
were pools of water, some fresh, and others communicating with the sea 
below. Though we subsequently witnessed the formation of one kind of 
“hummocky” floes, by means of the doubling occasioned by pressure, these 
were evidently produced in a different way. From their appearance it 
would seem that they are formed of numerous detached masses of ice, left 
floating on the sea at the setting in of the winter's frost; which, facilitating 
the production of a new sheet, are enclosed and, as it were, soldered to- 
gether by it; thus, increasing to several feet in thickness in the course of 
the winter, and receiving a covering of saow upon its upper surface, it 
becomes one firm and compact body. The height of the hummocks, which 
were here five or six feet above the general level of the floc, depends, of 
course, on the size of the masses remaining undissolved at the close of the 
summer; and, in most parts of Baffin’s Bay, where, I believe, little or none 
of the former year’s ice would be found at the setting in of the frost, the 
floes are level and regular, like those which we know to be produced 


ae ae 


32 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


Pld annually in almost all undisturbed situations. When the thawing commences, 
wi ~ the water lodges in the cavities formed on floes by the hummocks, making the 
numerous pools we see in the summer, gradually tinding its way com- 
jletely through the ice, and thus, at length, serving again to separate the 
original masses, or hummocks. This is one, among the many instances, in 
which Nature may be observed wonderfully to adapt her means of dissolving 
| the ice to those she employs in its production, thereby preventing any 
ag undue accumulation of it in the polar regions of the earth. 

While on this subject, I may offer a few remarks respecting the stones, sand, 
shells, and weed, found upon the surface of all the ice in this neighbourhood. 
The quantity in which these substances here occurred was really surprising, 
and puzzled us extremely to account for the manner in which they found 
their way upon the floes. This circumstance has been generally explained 
by simply attributing it to the whole Hoe having been in immediate contact 
i with the land, enabling the streams to wash, or the winds to blow, these 

substances into the situation in which they are found, in the same manner 
as they are deposited on bergs formed on the shore, But to those who have 
been eye-witnesses of the fact, to the extent in which it here occurred, this 
mode of explaining it, however plausible at first sight, is by no means satis- 
| factory ; for masses of rock, not less than a hundred pounds in weight, are 
| 
4 


sometimes observed in the middle of a floe, measuring half a mile, or more, 
each way, and of which the whole surface is more or less covered with 
smaller stones, sand, and shells. To suppose the wind strong enough to 
blow these substances such a distance would be absurd; nor is the supposi- 
tion of their having been washed there scarcely more probable, for as a floc 
of ice must float considerably above the surface of the sea, it is not casy to 
conceive how it can be overflowed, and much less how heavy st nes can be 
By carried half a mile along it. It has been suggested that the floe may be 
} held down by its firm cementation to the shore, while the water from the 
land above it rushes ina torrent along its upper surface. This, however, 
) { is contrary to experience, which shews that, long before the streams on the 
land ave sufticient to effect this, the ice next the shore is completely thawed, . 
ink and detached from the beach, and therefore at liberty to float in the natural : 
| oh Way. 
‘i The only explanation of this fact that I can suggest is, that as it is generally 
4 found to be the case to the greatest extent upon the “ hummocky” floes, the 
substances muy have been deposited upon each mass of ice when separate, 


mences, 
king the 
ay com- 
rate the 
nces, in 
issolving 
ing any 


es, sand, 
purhood, 
rprising, 
ey found 
xpluined 
e contact 
w, these 
¢ manner 
who have 
rred, this 
ans satis- 
‘ight, are 
or more, 
red with 
ough to 
supposi- 
as a floc 
t easy to 
s can be 
may be 
from the 
however, 
s on the 
thawed, 
e natural 


renerally 
loes, the 


separate, 


ie chalice 2 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 33 


and eventuaily brought into the middle of a large floe by the process detailed 
above. 


such deposit. In whatever manner it may be effected, it is certain that 
these substances act an essential part in the dissolution of the ice, as 
even the smallest stone or collection of sand, may always be observed to 
have formed a pool of water around it, in consequence of the radiation 
of heat from its surface. The stones now found upon the ice were granite, 
gneiss, feldspar, and lime, the latter being most abundant ; indeed, all the 
earthy matter found in the holes effervesced with sulphuric acid. There 
were also several kinds of shells, among which was the species of anomia 
first discovered in Barrow’s Strait, and found both in the shell and the fossil 
state in the course of the former voyage. 

The variation of the magnetic needle was here 55° 05' 30" westerly. At 
seven P.M. the tide set E.b.S, at the rate of half a mile an hour, the ice 
being remarkably still, and the strength of the tides certainly much less 
than farther to the eastward ; a circumstance, which, added to our subsequent 
observations, confirmed the remark of Baflin, that there was “ less shew of 
tide” in this part. Having succeeded in forcing the ships two miles farther 
in-shore, we again made fast, having deepened the water to one hundred and 
fifty fathoms. 


At noon on the 6th, we observed in lat. 65° 28' 15", being two miles Mon. 6. 


and a quarter to the nortiward of that in which Bylot, with whom Baffin sailed 
as pilot, left off his search of a passage to the westward in 1615. The 
reasons which induced him to relinquish the enterprise at this place were, 
the increased quantity of ice, the water becoming less deep, and his seeing 
land bearing N.E.b.E. from him; circumstances which led him to conclude 
that he was at the mouth ofa large bay. The same land, which we had 
now in sight, proved to be one of several islands, and I gave it the name 
of Barrin Isianp, out of respect to the memory of that able and enterprising 
navigator, The south-easternmost land in sight was that about Cape 
Comfort, which Baffin considered in lat. 65°, long. 85° 20°, Our angles 
and observations place it in 64° 54’, and 82°57’. Between Baffin Island and 
the high land of Southampton Island, from which points the discoveries of the 
y 


182] 
ge i . : August. 
This explanation, however, goes but a little way towards clearing w=w~ 
up the difficulty ; for, besides the necessity of supposing, in this case, that 
each mass of ice has in its turn been brought into close contact with the 
shore, we have never seen an instance, in any bay or harbour, where ice so 


brought, even under the most favourable circumstances, has received any 


ee oF 


ee ee 


lime: emt Ss dh 
mara, 


Thurs, 9, 


Frid, 10, 


Sat, 11. 


34 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


present Expedition commence, there was a considerable interval to the north- 
ward and westward, where no land had as yet appeared. We could not, there- 
fore, but entertain very sanguine hopes that this opening would be found to 
communicate with, and even to be a continuation of, the Frozen Strait, as 
Middleton himself had suggested. In the evening, the sky became overcast, 
the wind being southerly ; and between eleven P.M. and midnight, several 
vivid flashes of lightning were seen to the westward, and succeeded by hard 
rain for some hours. 

Our progress was now so slow, owing to constant interruption by ice, that 
on the 9th, at noon, we had only reached the lat. of 65° 34° 28", and 
long. 82° 24 12", our soundings being one hundred and fifty fathoms muddy 
bottom. The northern land in sight, which now first seemed to consist 
of islands, appeared low in comparison with the coast of Southampton 
Island, the latter rising to a considerable height above the sea, and having 
two hills very conspicuous from tlie eastward, forming a sort of saddle, not 
unlike that of the Mormond Hills over Buchaness. In the afternoon we 
once more entered the ice, which favoured us by cpening more and more as 
we advanced; so that we succeeded in making several miles to the westward, 
and were enabled to keep the ships under way and in open water during the 
night, tacking off and en near a small rocky islet. Three miles to the south! 
east of this, we had one hundred and one fathoms, and could detect no cur- 
rent by a boat moored to the bottom. 

The necessity of carrying casy sail on account of the islet, which, for two 
or three hours, it was too dark to distinguish, prevented our making any 
progress to the westward during the night. In passing to the southward 
and eastward of the rocky islet, we had thirty fathoms at the distance of 
a mile and a half, and the boats being sent to sound on its southern and 
western side, no bottom was found with thirty-five fathoms at about the same 
distance. Towards the evening of the 11th, we succeeded in getting in with 
the northern land, and at twenty minutes after nine P.M., being close toa 
small rock or islet, which lies about a mile and a half off the shore, 1 landed 
upon it, accompanied by a large party of officers, who volunteered to man the 
boat. We found it to be about one-tifth of a mile across, consistiug entireiy 
of gneiss-rock, rounded on the surface, and with a little moss and a very few 
other plants growing in crevices where water had lodged. We saw the tracks 
of deer upon some moist sand, and a rade circle of stones, being probably 
the remains of an Esquimaux summer habitation, From twenty minutes after 


aa ila sa, ah a Besta 


e north- 
t, there- 
ound to 
trait, as 
rvercast, 
, several 
by hard 


ce, that 
8", and 
s muddy 
» consist 
hampton 
1 having 
dle, not 
won we 
more as 
estward, 
ring the 
e south ' 

no cur- 


, for two 
ing any 
thward 
tance of 
ern and 
1e same 

in with 
lose toa 
t landed 
man the 
entireiy 
ery few 
he tracks 
robably 
es after 


eee ine 


Mabe ah ra Sed by. 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 39 


nine till ten P.M., the tide rose one foot, the stream setting to the westward , 1821. 
in the offing, as, indeed, it had done about the same time for the two pre- ie sl 
ceding tides, so that little doubt could be entertained of the flood-tide coming 
from the eastward in this place. At eleven P.M., soon after we returned on 

board, a fresh gale suddenly came on from the north-west, obliging us to 

make the ships fast to the largest floe-piece that happened to be near us, as hd 
the best means of holding our ground. 

On the morning of the 12th, the good effects of the north-westerly gale Sun. 12. 
were very apparent; for, although we had drifted two or three lcagues back to 
the eastward, the main bi ‘ly of the ice, consisting mostly of pieces smaller | 
than that to which we were attached, had gone much faster, leaving a large 
space of clear water for us to work in. It may here be observed that, in the 
course of our endeavours to get to the westward, as well in this voyage, as in 
that of 181-20, a westerly wind. though blowing directly against us, was 
always found ultimately to be the most favourable to our purpose, as it 
brings away large bodies of ice from that quarter, and consequently leaves 
a considerable interval of open water. The most precious opportunity to 
seize, therefore, in this navigation, is at the springing up of an easterly 
breeze after a gale from the epposite quarter, at which time, if a ship be 
fortunately unhampered, considerable progress may generally be made. 

Not a moment of this favourable interval must be lost, as the ice invariably 
closes again in a few hours after the change of wind, which is besides usually 
attended by thick weather. 

The gale having somewhat moderated at noon, we cast off and made sail ; 
and, after carrying a press of canvass during the day, had made considerable 
progress by the evening, when the ice becoming close obliged us to make fast; 
in doing which the Hecla narrowly escaped a heavy “nip,” by the sudden 
meeting of two floes. The weather was beautifully clear, giving us a fine 
view of the land, which now began to excite in us more and more in- 
terest, almost at every step of our progress. A headland, bearing from us 
S. 87° W., and named, by Mr. Hooper's desire, Care Wetsrorn, appeared 
very decidedly to form the northern termination of Southampton [sland, 
leaving an opening o* a league or two in width, but broken by two 
or three islands between it and some bigh land to the northward; a pro- 
montory on this shore, forming the northern point of the Strait, was named 
after Mr. Deas Tomson, one ‘of the commissioners of His Majesty's Navy, 

This land, however, did not appear to join that which we had lately 
vs 


abe 


1821 
August. 
wee 


Mon, 13. 


36 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


left to the north-east of us, there being between them a very wide open- 
ing in which nothing but a sea incumbered with ice was visible from the 
mast-head, The accounts given by Captain Middleton of the latitude of 
the western entrance of the Frozen Strait are so confused, and even contra- 
dictory *, that the present appearance of the land perplexed me extremely in 
deciding whether or not we had arrived at the opposite end of the opening 
to wliich he had given that name. That immediately before us to the west- 
ward, though it agreed in latitude within five or six miles with the 
southernmost parallel he has assigned to it, appeared much too narrow to 
answer his description of the passage we were in search of. Upon the whole, 
however, [ thought it most probable that this was the strait in question ; and 
as, at all events, the opening between Southampton Island and the land to 
the northward of it, in whatever latitude it might be found and whether wide 
ur harrow, was the passage through which it was our present object to pene- 
trate into Repulse Bay, I decided on using our utmost exertions to push 
through the narrow strait now before us. 

The wind moderating in the evening, and the ice after sunset once more 
opening, enabled us to make another mile or two to the westward, after which 
we lay to for the night. A great number of narwhals were playing about 
the ship during the night, but they were, as usual, so wary that our boats 
could not approach them. We remarked that scarcely in any part of the 
polar regions previously visited, had we seen fewer birds than for some 
days past; a solitary glaucous gull, a hawk, and a boatswain being all that 
had been noticed. The moon, in rising this evening, was curiously distorted 
by refraction into the irregular shape of a shrivelled orange. 

On the morning of the 13th the ships were pushed as far into the ice as the 
closeness of it would allow, which brought us within ten or twelve miles of 
the narrow part of the strait before us; and, as we could still see no land 
from the masthead when looking directly through it, we were naturally con- 
firmed in the supposition that this was the Frozen Strait, beyond which we 


* As an instance of this, in the Furnace’s log of August the 8th, Captain Middleton gives 
the latitude of his ship by observation, 65° 88° to 65° 41’, when close off the western entrance 
of the Frozen Strait, which, from its south-easterly trending, is, also, the northernmost part 
of it. In his letter to Mr. Dobbs, however, he says it is in 66° 40’, and, just before, that it is 
near the sixty-seventh degree of latitude. Neither the one vor the other has proved correct ; 
but I have here quoted them, to explain the doubts which these contradictory statements 
led me to eptertain at this junctnre. 


e open- 
om the 
tude of 
contra- 
mely in 
pening 
ie west- 
ith the 
rrow to 
whole, 
yn: and 
land to 
er wide 
O pene- 
to push 


ce more 
which 
g about 
r boats 

of the 
yr some 
all that 
istorted 


ce asthe 
tiles of 
10 land 
lly con- 
lich we 


Hton gives 
entrance 
most part 
that it is 
correct 5 


latements 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE, 37 


should have immediate access to the northern part of the Welcome. We 
observed something very like smoke ;ising from about Cape Welsford, wh._', 
being confined to one spot, was thought likely to be occasioned by the fires 
of natives. Nothing could exceed the fineness of the weather about this 
time ; the climate was. indeed, altogether so different from that to which we 
had before been accustomed in the icy seas, as to be a matter of constant 
remark, The days were temperate and clear, and the nights not cold, 
though a very thin plate of ice was usually formed upon the surface of the 
sea in sheltered places, and in the pools of water upon the floes. After 
sunset we descried land, appearing very distant, through the middle of the 
strait, which we considered to be that on the American side of the Welcome. 
At this time, also, we observed some ice in the centre of the strait, heavier 
than that which covered the rest of the sea, and apparently aground in shoal 
water, as afterwards proved to be the case. 

On the morning of the 14th, the ice continued almost as close as before 
about the ships, but the wind being easterly and some clear water beginning 
to appear in the direction of the strait, we were encouraged to make an 
attempt io move. The signal was, therefore, made to warp with lines and 
hawsers, but we met with no success to repay our endeavours, the Hecla 
having rather ‘ost than gained ground in the course of the day, and the Fury, 
though favoured by slacker ice, not having advanced one mile after nine 
hours’ labour. We, therefore, made fast to a floe three quarters of a mile in 
length, and almost as much across, our soundings being one hundred and 
ninety-two fathoms, at the distance of seven miles froma high island which 
occupies a large portion of this passage on its northern side. A great variety 
of coral, shells, and murine insects were here brought up from the bottom, 
which wiil be described in another place. 

The wind shifted to the westward and increased to a strong breeze in the 
night, in consequence of which we had, on the morning of the 15th, un- 
avoidably drifted back five or six miles to the eastward. This temporary loss 
of ground’ was, however, as ustial, more than compensated by a large space 
of clear water now seen in-shore, into which, after several hours’ exertion, we 
succeeded in getting the Fury, at three ?.M. We were here within a league 
of a remarkable headland on Southampton Island, which | named Care 
Bytor, as being probably the westernmost land seen by that navigator in 1615. 
in the meantime, the Heela, still continuing very closely beset, had, in spite 
of every exertion, drifted back with the ice several miles to the northward 


1821. 
August. 
waa 


Tues, 14, 


Wed. 15 


38 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


and eastward, so that, in the course of the evening, we lost sight of her 
altogether. This latter circumstance was, however, owing in great measure 
to the extraordinary refraction upon the horizon, making terrestrial objects 
at the distance of six or seven miles appear flattened down or depressed, as 
well as otherwise much deformed, 

At six P.M., having beat up within five or six miles of the entrance of 
the strait, and being anxious to sound the channel, which appeared narrow 
but without any ice in it to offer us obstruction, I left the ship in the 
gig, accompanied by Mr. Ross, for this purpose. The current appeared 
to be setting to windward, or to the westward, but the fresh breeze was 
unfavourable for ascertaining its exact direction or velocity. Besides the 
high island before mentioned, are two smaller ones to the southward of 
it, which contract the channel still more between it and the south shore. 
These islands I named after Lizurenant Nias. he heavy ice which had 
before been observed from the masthead, now formed a very conspicuous 
ahject, the rest having drifted out of the strait; we therefore rowed directly 
i» vards this, as it seemed to form the northern boundary of the navigable 
part of the channel. Reaching it at thirty minutes after nine, we found it 
arround as we had conjectured, twe of the black rocks on which it rested 
being now just above water, and a tide of a knot and a half setting past 
them to the eastward. These dangerous rocks lie nearly midway between 
the smallest island and Cape Welsford, being rather to the westward of the 
narrowest part. Within fifty yards of the dry part of them was a depw of 
ten to twelve fathoms, and from five to seven at half that distance. As it 
was not possible to complete the examination of the channel in time to beat 
the ship through till the morning, I made the appointed signal for the Fury to 
stand off and on during the few hours of dusk, and determined on taking up 
our quarters on shore at Cape Welsford, in order to re-commence our exa- 
mination as early as possible in the morning. In standing across to the Cape, 
we could fixd no bottom with thirty-five fathoms of line, and, indeed, in the 
whole of this part the water was subsequently found to be very deep. 

The part of Southampt:» Islead on which we landed is about a thousand 
feet high, and composed of gneiss. Every here and there, along the shore, 
between the projecting points of rocks, is a small cove or bay, having a 
beach composed of small pieces of limestone, which make the water almost 
as white as milk. Landing in one of tiose coves, we carried the boat 
above high-water mark; and, making a tent of her sail, lay very comfortably 


t of her 
measure 
objects 
ssed, as 


rance of 
narrow 
in the 
ppeared. 
2Ze Was 
des the 
ward of 
1 shore. 
ich had 
spicuous 
directly 
avigable 
found it 
rested 
§ past 
between 

of the 
eptu of 

As it 
to beat 
fury to 
ing up 
ur exa- 

Cape, 
| in the 


lousand 
shore, 
ving a 
almost 
> boat 
brtably 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 39 


during the night. When the boat first touched the beach, we observed an jg91, 
innumerable quantity of the little fish called sillocks, swimming about, se- August. 


veral of which were killed by the boat-hooks or taken in the hand. A great 
number of white whales, seals, and narwhals, were also playing about near 
the beach during the night. The white whales were the most numerous; 
the noise these animals made resembled a hoarse low-toned barking more than 
any other to which I can compare it; and we remarked that their colour was 
whiter than any we had before seen. 

The weather continued clear and fine, enabling us to obtain good observa- 
tions by the moon and stars. The latitude by two meridian altitudes was 
65° 23' 13”; the longitude, by chronometers 84° 40' 07"; and the variation of 
the magnetic needle 50° 18’ 26" westerly. The aurora borealis was visible 
during the whole of the night, consisting of many luminous patches, or 
nebulw, having, when viewed together, a tendency to form an arch, and ex- 
tending from south by east to south-west and sometimes to west, its height 
in the centre being 15°. From this arch pencils of rays shot upwards towards 
the zenith. It differed from any other phenomenon of this kind, that I have 
seen, in being at times of a beautiful orange colour. 


As soon as it was daylight, Mr. Ross and myself ascended the hill above Thur. 16. 


our sleeping-place, from whence we could perceive land stretching round to 
the westward and northward, so as apparently to leave no opening in that 
quarter. We were much surprised at the low and yellowish appearance of 
this land, both of which circumstances we were at a loss to reconcile with 
Captain Middleton’s description of the bold shore of the American conti- 
nent, on the western side of the Welcome about this latitude. It was 
pleasing, however, to cbserve a large expanse of sea wholly unencumbered 
with ice, in the direction we were now about to pursue; and we, therefore, 
hastened to the beach to continue the survey of the strait, that no time 
might be lost in taking advantage of this favourable circumstance. We here 
noticed several Esquimaux circles of stones, but all very old ones, nor could 
we discover any recent traces of inhabitants, notwithstanding the smoke 
which we thought we had observed from the ships, at vo great distance from 
this spot. In the fissures and hollows between the rocks, the moss, sorrel, 
ground willow, and a few other plants were abundant, and specimens of 
every kind were brought on board. On our return to the beach we found 
the boat's crew amusing themselves in catching sillocks, of which they had 
discovered great numbers left by the tide in pools upon the rocks, and had 


40 


SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


already caught more}than a large bucket full. They proved most excellent 
eating and, although we were not badly off for fresh provision, were con- 
sidered by us a very agreeable variety. Every possible care was taken in 
observing the time and direction of the tides in this place, that phenomenon 
having now assumed a more than ordinary interest. It has already been 
remarked that, at half past nine the preceding evening, we had found a tide 
setting to the eastward past the Black Rocks, at the rate of a knot and a 
half. At ten P.M., when we landed, the tide was rapidly rising and con- 
tinued to do so till two in the morning, during the whole of which time a 
few pieces of ice were occasionally driving to the eastward through the chan- 
nel. From these observations it was not unreasonable to surmise that the 
flood-tide came from the westward, though subsequent experience, as will 
presently appear, proved this conjecture to be erroneous. If the intervals 
between the tides be regular, the time of high water on full and change days 
of the moon, at Cape Welsford, would appear to be a quarter past twelve. 
The perpendicular fall of the water at this morning’s tide, which was a spring- 
tide, the moon being two days old, was sixteen feet seven inches. 

After completing our observations and examination of the channel, we 
reached the ship by eight A.M., the Fury having, with great attention, been 
kept close off the entrance of the strait during the night. The Hecla had at 
this time just hove in sight under a press of sail to the eastward, having at 
length, with much difficulty, succeeded in getting into clear water. While 
engaged in beating through the channel with a considerable tide against us, 
I despatched Mr. Crozier to bring on board sand for the decks, and provided 
him also with nets for catching sillocks, of which he procured enough to 
serve the messes of the officers and ships’ company for two dinners. 

In beating through this channel, the breadth of which is a mile and three 
quarters from Cape Welsford to the Black Rocks, we discovered no danger 
on the south side, where we had ninety fathoms at two-thirds of a cable’s 
length from the shore, nor any on the northern side except the rocks them- 
selves, which are completely covered at high water. No soundings could be 
obtained with one hundred fathoms of line anywhere near the middle of the 
channel, though the water is remarkably light-coloured ata considerable dis- 
tance from the shore, owing probably to the’ same cause as that I before 
noticed, as occurring near the beach in all the little bays along this coast. 

As soon as we were through the passage, 1 despatched Mr. Bushnan to the 
Hecla, in the small boat, with a plan of the channel, and some directions 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 41 


xcellent to be attended to in coming through, for Captain Lyon’s guidance, and then 1821. 
pshoaeed stood on to the westward, in order to make out the land in that quarter, we 
taken in The appearance of this land continued to perplex us more and more as we 
memenon advanced, as, instead of any opening corresponding to Wager River, which 
dy been lies about this latitude, and the high shores by which it is bounded, we soon 
id a tide discovered before us a continuous line of low yellow-looking coast, extending 
ot and a all round so as to meet the high land of Southampton Island to the south, 
and con as well as that to the north, and leaving no perceptible outlet by which we 
1 time a could find our way to the westward. In standing across we frequently 
he chan- observed a great rippling on the water, and a boat was sent to sound ; but we 
that the could find no bottom with forty to fifty fathoms of line, till within five or six 
» as will miles of the low shore, when we rathet suddenly obtained soundings in twenty 
intervals fathoms; on a gravelly bottom. We then kept away, ina line with this shore, 
nge days to the northward, and at length perceived something like a small opening in 
t twelve. the north-eastern corner of what otherwise appeared a large bay. The wind 
a spring- veering to the southward, however, with rain, and every appearance of a 
dirty night, and the Hecla not having yet got through the strait, in conse- 
inel, we quence of light and baffling winds, I considered it most prudent to run in 
on, been under the western shore, and to anchor for the night, which we accordingly 
a had at did at thirty minutes after seven P.M.,in thirteen fathoms, on a bottom of mud 
aving at and shells, at the distance of one mile from the beach. The navigation was 
While here perfectly unobstructed by ice, of which none was to be seen, except 


ANS’ Us, here and there a straggling piece which appeared to have been lately de- 


rovided tached from the shore. A great number of white whales were observed in the 
ough to course of the day, and the cackling of geese was heard on shore the whole 
night. The Hecla, having succeeded in getting through the strait, joined us 
d three an hour before midnight. 
danger On the morning of the 17th, the weather being too foggy to move, parties Frid. 17. 
cable’s from both ships went on shore to examine the country and to procure 
s them- specimens of its natural productions. We landed on a flat and very rough 
ould be beach, principally composed of sharp masses of limestone, over which, at low 
of the water, it was difficult to drag the boats. Mixed with these were some pieces 
ble dis- of gneiss and granite, but the lime is by far the most abundant. This land, 
before which rises gradually from the beach, but is in no part more then sixty or 
bast, seventy feet above the level of the sea, was full of ponds of fresh water, and 
i to the in almost all the intermediate parts there was abundance of fine vegetation, 
ections 


consisting of grass, moss, and various other plants, of which specimens were 
G 


Bai i 


ee 


Gein ee x ——— < 
A ea me agen meatal ic —— 


« a = 
a el Be 


42 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


1821. brought on board, A splendid specimen of the colymbus arcticus, and also a 

er red-throated diver (‘colymbus septentrionalis,) were obtained by the gentlemen 
of the Hecla. The former though very wild were numerous, as were also 
plovers of two kinds, the charadrius pluvialis, and hiaticula. Nine or ten deer, 
of which several were fawns, with a large buck as usual bringing up the rear 
of the herd, were met with by some of our people, but they would not suffer 
themselves to be approached within gun-shot. A great number of fine black 
whales were playing about near the beach, and, from the total absence of 
ice, would have afforded a rich and easy harvest to a fishing ship. Several 
seals were also seen, and we were in hopes of finding some sillocks near the 
shore, but had no success with the seine, which was twice hauled upon the 
beach. We met with the remains of several Esquimaux habitations in 
different places along the shore, and in one spot a conspicuous mark 
had been left by these people, consisting of several stones placed one over 
the other. The beach being favourable for measuring a base, we ran 
off one above a mile in length, and obtained the necessary angles for the 
survey, together with the usual observations for fixing our geographical 
position. The latitude of our landing-place was 65° 27' 37", the longitude, by 
chronometers, 85° 15' 35", the dip of the magnetic needle 87° 27’ 52”, and the 
variation 47° 34 05" westerly. It was low water by the shore at forty-three 
minutes past eight in the morning, by which and the preceding night’s ob- 
servation, the time of high water on full and change days of the moon 
appears to be about twenty minutes past twelve. The perpendicular fall 
of tide this morning measured rather more than sixteen feet, so that the 
highest spring tides will probably amount to eightcen. 

The weather having gradually cleared up as the sun got higher, we 
returned on board at half past nine and, getting immediately under way, 
stood under all sail to the N.N.E., where alone, as on the preceding even- 
ing, there appeared the smallest chance of finding any outlet. Our late 
excursion on shore had served, among other objects of interest, to furnish 
some clue to the mystery respecting the place into which we had found our 
way, and which had evidently never before been visited by Europeans. Our 
parties who went farthest inland reported that they could see no termination 
to this kind of shore to the westward, nor any appearance of high land beyond 
it. It was now evident, therefore, that this low shore was the same as that 
which Captain Middleton described as “ a low shingly beach, like Dun- 

geness,” and along the western side of which he sailed up the Welcome, 


d also a 
ntlemen 
are also 
on deer, 
the rear 
ot suffer 
e black 
sence of 
Several 
1ear the 
ipon the 
ions in 
is mark 
one over 
we ran 
for the 
raphical 
tude, by 
and the 
y-three 
rht’s ob- 
e moon 
lar fall 
that the 


her, we 
er way, 
g even- 
Dur late 
furnish 
und our 
s. Our 
ination 
beyond 
as that 
e Dun- 
elcome, 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 48 


without suspecting its disjunction, in any part, from the high land of South- 
ampton Island at the back, which, indeed, he could not have discovered 
without travelling several leagues inland from that side, until he had reached 
the shore of the bay we had lately entered. 

In approaching a low point, which forms one side of the apparent opening 
to the N.N.E., before alluded to, and which I subsequently named after 
Mr. Henperson, we gradually shoaled the water from eighteen fathoms, 
which we had soon after leaving our anchorage, to eight. After rounding 
the point, it seemed doubtful whether there was any passage to the north- 
ward, the interval between the two lands being now contracted to two 
miles, and becoming more and more narrow as we advanced. After 
passing the point, where, at two P.M., we found the flood-tide setting to 
the northward, at the rate « nile and a half an hour, we again deepened 
the water to ten and twelve fathoms; but, in continuing our course half 
an hour longer, again shoaled it gradually to five and four fathoms, and 
tacked in eighteen feet. The ship was unusually slack in stays, owing, 
perhaps, to her hanging in the long tangle-weed, of which great quan- 
tities were always floating about here. At this time the two lands seemed 
to approach within a mile of each other, with a number of little low 
stony islands occupying a great part of that space, and shelving points on 
each side, so that there seemed little chance of finding a passage for ships 
in that direction. Having sent a boat to sound, we tacked, and again 
ran in till we had shoaled the water to four fathoms, and then once 
more stood to: the southward. Finding, by the signals made from the boat, 
that nothing could be done till the channel, if there were any, had been 
regularly examined and buoyed off, I directed the ships to be anchored as 
soon as we had got into twelve fathoms; and at four P.M., left the Fury, 
accompanied by Mr. Henderson, and by Lieutenant Hoppner in a second 
boat from the Hecla, in order to conduct the intended examination. This 
did not, however, occupy so much time as we expected, for in less than two 
hours we had ascertained, beyond a doubt, that no practicable passage for 
ships existed in this direction. The tide was here so strong, that, with 
sails and oars, we could scarcely stem it; and as we approached the nar- 
rowest part, it was running more than six knots, obliging us to pull in-shore, 
into the eddy of the point, before we could make the smallest progress. We 
then: with difficulty rowed to an islet, about which fresh rocks and shoals 
were almost.every minute shewing themselves, as the tide fell; so that, at 
G2 


1821. 
August. 
rw 


ad 


Pads 
PG 
9 Vy 
YY 2" » 
WV 
NA 
ae 44942 = 
= Jaaa =) 
=2 ae = % =A 
a c8 
43? & 
s> “. * aN & & NN 
Po MN VS 
Ne, Xa Re 
NF & “age 


GV “e 


44 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


half-past six, wlien it was very little more than half evb by the shore, there 
were, in every direction, numberless shoals. and islets, past which the tide 
was rushing with all the violence and irregularity of a race, except ina 
small channel, which, in the only part where a ship could have floated, 
did not exceed three hundred yards in width. In such a channel, rendered, 
as it was, doubly dangerous, by the rapid tide which rushed through it, and 
which would render a ship perfectly unmanageable, it would have been 
highly imprudent to risk a passage ; and as, under these circumstances, it 
would have been a mere loss of time to continue the examination of this 
place, whatever curiosity we might feel to ascertain its communications, I 
determined to return on board, in order to take advantage of the remaining 
part of the ebb-tide, it being our next object to endeavour to find a passage 
into the Welcome, round the south side of the low land to the westward of 
us. I cannot, therefore, decidedly say, whether there exists a passage of 
any kind through to the northward in that place or not, but it is possible 
enough that there may be one, though very narrow and shoal. 

The whole of the bottom here consists of a flat gneiss-rock, over-which, 
as well as on the shoals and islets, lie innumerable fragments of limestone, 
of a white colour. A mark, consisting of stones piled up, had been set on 
each side of the narrow channel, as if for the purpose of pointing out the. 
safest part for canoes, when the points are covered by high spring tides. By 
deep wading, for the nature of the bottom and the rapid fall of tide did 
not allow us to risk the grounding of the boats, we got to the islet, where 
we found two jaw-bones of a whale placed erect on a pile of stones, 
together with a quantity of whalebone; the whole structure being so con- 
trived, when viewed at a little distance, that it bore a striking resem- 
blance to the figure of a man holding the blades of bone in his -hands. 
Among the numerous marks of the kind which we afterwards met with 
in various parts of the sea-coast, it was not uncommon to observe some 
which evidently appeared to have reference to the same whimsical in-. 
tention, and which, till habit had rendered them familiar, we often: mis- 
took for men, Being in want of whalebone for making brooms, we took a 
few of the blades, leaving as an equivalent a boarding-pike stuck upright 
in the pile ; we then returned to the ships, which we reached at eight P.M. 
The wind having now become very light and variable, and the navigation of 
this place requiring the utmost command of the ships, I was reluctantly 
compelled to defer moving till the morning tide, It was low water at a 


qm 
Sa Eh ee ee ae 


Neen nn nr Sie ee aati am rads ans panies 
Sa a a i 8 Sc ae hal ee ; 


quarter past nine this evening, after which time the tide began almost im- 
mediately to run to the northward. Several rein-deer were seen on the 
western or low shore in the course of the day. 

The weather was cloudy and nearly calm during the night, and a thick fog 
came on the following morning. We weighed, however, at high water and 
beat to the southward with a light air from that quarter, regulating our course 
by the lead which is here a faithful guide. At nine A.M., the wind shifted 
to the N.W., and the fog was succeeded by rain for an hour or two, after 
which the weather became dry, clear, and pleasant. As soon as the favourable 
breeze sprung-up we stood under all sail for what at first appeared to be the 
south-eastern extreme of the low land, more of which, however, came in sight 
as we advanced and as the weather became clearer; till at length, at one 
P.M., it was but too evident that we were once more embayed, the low 
beach running quite round to Southampton Island, about nine or ten miles 
to the southward of us. I therefore ordered the ships to be anchored, 
being in thirteen fathoms, on a bottom of mud and shells, at the distance 
of two miles and a quarter from the high or eastern land, and about four 
from the other: and in order to leave no doubt of the continuity of land, 
as it appeared from the ships, I despatched a boat from each under the 
command of Lieutenant Reid, with directions to row close to the beach, 
completely round the bay, making such hydrographical and other remarks 
as circumstances would permit. 

In the mean time Captain Lyon and myself went on shore to the east- 
ward, in order to obtain from the hills a view of the surrounding lands. It 
may here be observed that, on this eastern side of the bay, there is a strip 
of low and lightish-coloured land a mile or two in breadth, extending from 
the foot of the hills to the sea. On landing we found this low shore to 
consist of whitish limestone in schistose fragments, alternating with narrow 
strips of verdure, and some ponds of water; while the rocks at the back, 
which rise eight or nine hundred feet above the level of the sea, are 
composed of gneiss, with here and there a quantity of limestone in heaps, 
and in many places large masses of quartz, mica, and red feldspar, lying 
detached upon the surface. Near the top of the hill we also met with 
a considerable quantity of magnetic ironstone. We saw no living animal 
but ‘three small birds. Stones placed erect in different parts, and even at 
the very top of the hill, shewed that the Esquimaux had visited these shores, 
but.we observed no recent traces.of them, ‘ 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 45 


1821. 
August. 
wana 


Sat. 18. 


1821. 
August. 
aw 


46 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


Lieutenant Reid returned on board at eleven P:M., having determined 
the continuity of land all round the bay, by rowing close in-shore the whole 
way. With a view to ascertain, if possible, the breadth of the low land, 
by which the geographical position of the eastern boundary of the Welcome 
in this latitude might have been laid down, Lieutenant Reid went on shore 
near the head of the bay; but it proved so level, extensive, and low, that 
he was unable to obtain any view to the westward. He considered the 
southern boundary of the bay to be ten miles from the station of the ships. 
The soundings are regular, and the anchorage good in every part: which our 
boats visited, making this, perhaps, one of the most secure and. extensive 
harbours in the known world. Scarcely a piece of ice was. seen in any, part 
of it, and the appearance of the beach, on which were no heavy grounded: 
masses, shewed that here, as in all other well-sheltered harbours.or inlets in 
the polar seas, little or none had ever found access,. except: that: which: is 
formed in it, and which the annual process of dissolution has usually 
destroyed before this period. In the examination of any inletin these regions 
there is, indeed, no indication more unpromising, and which, if: any. thing. 
short of absolute examination could be admitted, might be considered so 
conclusive against the existence of a passage, as the absence of “old.” ices 
or, at least, of those traces of it, which are evident upon every shore to 
which it has occasionally a ready access. Of this fact, the remaining part of 
the present season’s navigation will afford a striking: proof. 

This magnificent bay, possessing so many advantages that would render it 
invaluable in a more temperate climate, the officers honoured with the name 
of the Dux ov York's Bay, in consequence of the Expedition having, first 
entered it on the birth-day of His Royal Highness. 

It being now evident that the inlet into which, in the course of our en- 
deavours to penetrate to the westward, we had unavoidably been. led, would 
afford us no passage in that direction, I gave orders for weighing at the turn 
of tide; being determined at once to run back through the narrow channel) by 
which we had entered, and to push to: the northward without delay, in 
search of some more favourable opening: The tide, in our present anchor- 
age, flowed to the southward and ebbed to the northward; and it now. be- 
came apparent that, notwithstanding the care taken to ascertain the direc- 
tion of the flood-tide in the entrance to this bay, we had: been mistaken. in 
supposing it to come from the westward, For, as the tide: of ebb unquestion- 
ably ran to the southward about Point Henderson, and no opening occurs 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 47 


any where else, it follows that the flood must of necessity come in from the 
eastward. ‘The ‘comparative slowness of its rate of running through the 
narrow passage is easily accounted for by the depth of the channel through 
which it flows, (exceeding one hundred fathoms,) compared with the bay it 
has to fill, and which is shallow in many parts. The error into which I had 
fallen on this occasion has been here particularly noticed, as furnishing 
another instance of the difficulty of ascertaining the true direction of the 
flood-tide, without any knowledge of those local circumstances which pro- 
duce, on many coasts, what seamen call a “tide and half-tide,” or “tide 
and quarter-tide,” and which one or two cursory and unconnected ob- 
servations cannot always detect. In the present instance it appeared 
that the stream of ebb was still running past the Black Rocks, one 
hour and three quarters after the time of low water by the shore ; how 
much longer than this it continued to run we had not an opportunity of 
ascertaining. 

The weather was overcast during the night, and a calm prevailed till half- 


past six on the morning of the 19th, at which time we weighed with a light Sun. 19. 


air from the N.W., and stood towards the passage. At half past eight, we 
discovered a shoal, dry at half-tide, which lay almost directly in our way, 
and soundings were found by a boat, from twelve to fourteen fathoms, at the 
distance of a mile on its eastern and south-eastern sides ; but the wind again 
falling just as we got between the shoal and the land, and the ebb-tide 
having just done, we anchored at ten A.M. in twelve fathoms and a half, 
being about the middle of the channel, which is here between three and 
four miles in breadth. Mr. Fisher and myself then landed on the shoal, of 
which the position was favourable for making observauons, and for the inter- 
section of the other angles obtained for the survey of the bay. We found it 
to be thirty or forty yards in length at low water, and composed of rounded 
lumps of lime, (many of which contained fossil remains,) a specimen or two 
of black marble, and some picces of granite and gneiss. The latitude ob- 
served was 65° 20' 56”; the longitude, by chronometers, 84° 57’ 04".5; and 
the variation of the magnetic needle, by the sun’s azimuth at noon, 46° 25’, 
westerly. While we were waiting for the meridian altitude, Captain Lyon, 
who had joined us in his own boat, employed his people in sounding round 
the shoal which is in most parts bold. We built a pile of stones on the 
middle of it, but this was altogether covered about one P.M., or at half-flood. 
In the mean time, a namber of our gentlemen had landed on Southampton 


1821. 
August, 
yw 


Mon. 20. 


48 SECOND VOYAGE FOR’THE DISCOVERY 


Island, bringing off specimens of the plants and minerals, which were much 
the same as those collected the preceding evening. Some of the party con- 
fidently reported that they had heard the shouting of natives, though they 
could not meet with them. From this circumstance, as well as from the 
smoke which had before been observed near this place, we thought it likely 
that some Esquimaux were not far off, but that, never having before 
communicated with Europeans, they had perhaps been scared at our 
approach. 

A breeze from the S.W., which sprung up at two P.M., enabled us to weigh 
before high water; when, having picked up our boats, we made all sail for 
the channel, through which we passed at half past four with a strong breeze. 
The Black Rocks were at this time totally concealed, and the ice quite 
washed away from them by the last spring-tides, so that, had we not before 
known their situation, lying, as they do, almost in mid-channel, we might 
perhaps have run directly upon them. The mark for being abreast of them 
is shewn in the accompanying plan, and to any ship visiting this bay will be 
useful with a turning wind. When the breeze is free, the only direction 
necessary is to keep about three-fourths over from the small islet to the high 
southern shore, which is bold quite close to the rocks. On hauling to the 
northward we found the position of the ice very unfavourable to our. pro- 
gress in that direction, and the wind increasing to a strong breeze, with 
every appearance of bad weather, we reefed our sails, for the purpose of 
standing off and on during the night, with the hope that this wind would in 
a few hours clear the shore along which it was now our object to sail. After 
dark it began to blow stronger with rain and some sea out of the bay, obliging 
us to carry a press of canvass, and to keep all hands on deck, to enable us 
to weather the ice under our lee. 

After midnight the weather moderated a little, and the wind drew more to 
the southward, giving us some shelter under the lee of the land till daylight, 
when we found that the breeze had done us all the service we had anticipated, 
by opening a wide passage between the land and the ice to the northward, 
Not a moment was lost in availing ourselves of this opportunity, and we ran ra- 
pidly and almost without obstruction along the land, passing numerous islands 
and bays with which this shore abounds. Piles of stones:were seen, as usual, 
in various places along the coast. The eastern shore of this new strait still ap- 
peared continuous, and both lands began to trend more to the westward. Inthe 
course of the afternoon we passed several streams of ice, much of which was 


(ENTRANCE 
(S(z6) “®) 
Duke of Dork 


eRe ae 
eae eS S 


=a 


FE ORE 
: a ak SS oer 
Sea ee —_ 


Be 


Se aka ee A aI tn = 


ing ie 
us a : 
: . : 
: ro, | 
§ ot | 


BN Pas 


St, 


Publishad ae the Act dircets Tar? sag by Sohn Murray Abcmarte Strest hevden 


Se: 
a 
Be, 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 49 


covered with sand, but the late south-west breeze having drifted the main 
body of it over to the opposite coast, we met with no material impediment. 
At a quarter before five, P.M., in passing within an island, to which from 
subsequent occurrences the name of Passage Island was afterwards given, 
a violent rippling was observed a-head. The boats were instantly lowered 
to sound the channel, and the ships put about till it was ascertained that 
there was no shoal water; when we again tacked, keeping the boats a-head, 
and continuing under easy sail till past the rippling, but having no less than 
twenty-five fathoms in any part. 

Passage Island, which is blackish in its appearance, has a small rocky islet 
of a yellow colour on its eastern side, with which we afterwards as unex- 
pectedly as unwillingly became better acquainted. There are also two or 
three small islands lying nearly abreast of it, off the Southampton Island 
shore, and as we proceeded several others were brought in sight, lying in a bay 
near. the west extreme, which we passed in the evening, having before us a sea 
entirely clear of ice and, we were willing to hope, of land also. Hazy weather, 
however, such as had prevailed during the greater part of the day, with occa- 
sional rain, is very favourable to such hopes, and often, therefore, brings 
much disappointment. At seven o’clock we plainly distinguished land, with 
a fog-bank hanging over it, to the westward, and, as far as the thickness of 


- the weather would permit us to see, leaving no opening before us except for 


about two points in the north-western quarter.. As the nights became dark 
for several hours at this season, and we were wholly unacquainted with the 
land beyond us, the boats were despatched to look for anchorage under the 
southern shore, where, however, the ground proved so irregular, and the bottom 
so rocky, that 1 determined to keep under way «ivring the night. As soon as 
the boats were hoisted up, we stood to the westward under easy sail, and 
deepened the water gradually to one hundred and five fathoms, on a hard 
bottom. Our uncertainty respecting the true situation. of the Frozen Strait, 
together with the. want of observations during the day, left us, at this time, 
in doubt whether we had already penetrated through that passage, or had still 
to encounter the difficulties which the former accounts of it had led us to an- 
ticipate. 

The wind was squally, with dark cloudy weather, during the night, and a 


1821. 


ugust. 
wnw | 


calm succeeded on the morning of the 2lst, with fog and rain. At forty ‘Tues. 21. 


minutes after eight, A.M., the tide was found to be setting W.S.W., 
half a mile per hour, and there was, during the forenoon, some swell from the 
H 


= 


EE I 
ere: a. 


tek pe pm Rea ST 
ete au 


50 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


1821. southward, which seemed to intimate, as was in fact the case, that we had 


August. 


rw passed the Frozen Strait, and had the Welcome open to us in that direction. 
A northerly breeze at length springing up gave us hopes of speedily clearing 
up all our doubts on this subject, and a press of sail was carried to the 
westward. The northern land, which now again came in sight, appeared to 
be continuous, and we shortly after distinguished the opening between this 
and the western shore seen the preceding evening, and for which: our course 


Wed. 22. 


was now directed. 


In the afternoon, however, the wind increased consider- 


ably, and the weather became so extremely thick with snow, which fell in 
unusually large flakes, that for five or six hours we ran almost entirely by the 
lead, which indicated deep water. Now and then, indeed, we caught an in- 


distinct glimpse of the land on each side of us, which was sufficient to shew . 


the extreme caution necessary in running under such circumstances. The 
land to the southward seemed high in its western part, and low to the east- 
ward, and that to the northward still appeared continuous and unbroken ex- 


cept by. islands. 


At thirty minutes after five, P.M., the weather being still 


very thick, the land was suddenly discovered a-head, and we tacked in seventy 
fathoms, on a rocky bottom. During the whole of this run, we scarcely 
saw a piece of ice, except one stream through which we passed at three P.M: 
At seven o'clock, there was still every appearance of a dirty and therefore 
of an anxious night, if we should be obliged to keep the ships under way ; 
and it was on thatiaccount. my intention to stand in towards the northern 
shore,. and endeavour to get sight of it, so as to secure an anchorage for the 
night; but at a quarter before eight the weather suddenly cleared up, when 
we found ourselves completely surrounded by land from'E.N.E. round by 
north to S.b.E., having unconsciously entered Repulse Bay, in which not a'piece 
of: ice was to be seen that could obstruct us in its thorough examination. I 
made the signal to stand off and:on during the night, which proved extremely 
clear and. fine, and directed the boats of each ship to’ be in readiness for 
landing inthe morning.. The latitude, by the meridian altitude of « cygni, 
was 66° 27’, which confirmed me in the belief of our being in’ Repulse Bay, 
though it afforded some ground for suspecting the accuracy of Captain Mid‘ 


dleton’s latitude. 


We stood: up the bay towards daylight, and at seven A.M., I leftthe Fury, 


accompanied! by a large party: of officers, having by signal’ requested Captain 


Lyon'to join us. 


At the same’ time:I directed another boat'to be despatched 


from the Hecla, under the command of Lieutenant Palmer; to row round a 


- 
Ss 

Y 
Bae - 


oe te 


SIRES ANP Z 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 51 


ad small bight which appeared in the north-west corner of the bay, where alone, p Sioss 

: : : gust. 

mn. from one ortwo points overlapping each other, the slightest doubt of the con- www 
ing tinuity of land:could exist. We landed upon a point just to the eastward of 
the this bight, in which neighbourhood are several little islands and coves pro- 
to bably affording good anchorage, but which the more immediate objects we 
his had in view did not permit us to examine. Upon the point we found the re- 
ree mains of no \ess than sixty Esquimaux habitations, consisting of stones laid 
ler: one over the other in very regular circles, eight or nine feet in diameter, be- 
im sides nearly a hundred other rude though certainly artificial structures, some 
the of which had been fire-places, others store-houses, and the rest tolerably built 
fit walls four or five feet high, placed two and two, and generally eight or nine 
fo feet apart, which these people use for their canoes, as’ well as to keep the 
The dogs from gnawing them. A great many circles of stones were also seen 
matic more inland. About three miles to the N.N.W. of our landing-place our 
eat people reported having seen fifteen others of the same kind, and what 
still they took to be a burying-ground, consisting of nine or ten heaps of large 
enty stones, three feet in diameter and as many in height. Under these were 
cely found a variety of little implements, such as arrow or spear-heads tipped 
> Me with stone or iron, arrows, small models of canoes and paddles, some rough 
fore pieces of bone and wood, and one or two strips of asbestos which, as 
ay; ‘ Crantz informs.us, ‘is used by the natives of Greenland for the wick of their 
ais : lamps, and. for applying hot, in certain diseases, to the afflicted part*. 
the i Under these articles were found smaller stones, placed as a pavement, six 
lien 2 or seven feet in length, which, in the part not concealed by the larger 
by a stones, was covered with earth. Our men had not the curiosity or incli- 
ce A nation to dig any deeper, but a human skull was found near the spot. Our 
I i people also reported that, several miles inland of this, they observed stones 


set up as marks, many of which we also met with in the neighbourhood of 
the point. Of these marks, which occur so abundantly in every part of the 
American coast that we visited, we could not then conjecture the ‘probable 
use, ‘but we afterwards learned that the Esquimaux set them up to guide 
them in travelling from place to place, when acovering of snow renders it 
difficult to distinguish one spot from another. We found among the stones 
some seals’ bones, with the flesh still upon them, which seemed to indicate 


* ‘Crantz, I. 286, ‘The Esquimaux on this part of the coast use it only as sticks for trim. 
ming their lamps. 


H 2 


—— 


Se i kel PS ll pa = HS EES 
- ee a 


SP Se ete = = 


Ee are Ss — ae 
Tee SS SESS ST 


= 


Se = 
Peed SS 


1821. 
August. 
PYw 


52 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


that the natives had occupied this station during a part of the same season ; 
and judging from the number of circles collected in this place, and still more 
from our subsequent knowledge of these people, it is probable that not less 
than one hundred and twenty persons had taken up their residence here 
at the same time. 

The land on the northern and western sides of Repulse Bay does not 
exceed six or seven hundred feet in height, while that on the south rises, 
perhaps, full a thousand feet above the level of the sea. The shore on 
which we landed is composed of gneiss rock, traversed by broad veins of red 
feldspar running in almost every direction. Quartz and mica also occurred 
in separate masses, as well as white limestone lying in loose fragments 
on the surface. Before we landed in the morning the snow which fell 
the preceding day had quite disappeared from the north shore, and by 
noon the land all round the bay had resumed its dark appearance. We 
saw several rein-deer and hares, some ducks, dovekies, knots, (tringa 
cinerea,) snow buntings, and a white owl. An ermine, (erminea mustela,) 
a few ptarmigans, and a hare, were killed. Mice, (mus hudsonius,) were 
very abundant, particularly among the stones of the Esquimaux tents. I 
do not know whether ‘the seals’ flesh remaining on some of the bones was 
any attraction to them, but it is certain that two of them being put to- 
gether into a cage, the larger killed the other and eat apart of it. Several 
black whales were seen in the bay in the course of the day. There was here 
no want of vegetation, which indeed was in many parts extremely luxu- 
riant ; and specimens of every plant were carefully preserved by our nume- 
rous collectors. 

The latitude observed on shore was 66° 30’ 58", being the first observation 
we had yet obtained so near the Arctic Circle, but far to the southward of 
that given by Captain Middleton *. The longitude, by chronometers, was 
86° 30' 20"; the dip of the magnetic needle, 88° 07’ 28”; and the variation 
48° 32' 57" westerly ; being only a degree and a half less than that observed 
by Middleton in 1742. In observations formerly made upon the variation of 


* The difference amounts to about twenty miles. It is but justice, however, to the me- 
mory of Captain Middleton to add, that several miles of this error may have been’ occasioned 
by the imperfection of nautical instruments in his day, combined with the unavoidable inac- 
curacy oi observations made by the horizon of the sea, when encumbered with much ice. 
On this latter account, as well as from the extraordinary terrestrial refraction, no observation 
can be here depended upon, unless made with an artificial horizon, 


Seppe: se 


ve 
a 
ov. 
FS 
on 
of 


eI GELS hoa Mag et 
Ree SERS Nat 


ion 


SSSA aa SAAN RRS EN PS BRR 


: 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. — 53 


the needle in this neighbourhood, a considerable error may have been occa- 
sioned by the effects of local attraction, produced by the iron in the ship, a 
phenomenon of which navigators were not then aware. If the magnetic 
pole were at that time situated near its present position, a difference of no 
less than four or five points of the compass may have arisen in consequence 
of a change in the direction of the ship’s head from east to west, as was now 
the case with us.. No accurate deduction therefore can possibly be made, 
respecting the change which the variation has undergone, from observations 
made on board a ship at an early period, especially in the neighbourhood of 
either of the magnetic poles of the earth *. 

' The phenomena we had, for some time past, observed in the traversing of 
the compasses on board the ships, were similar to those noticed on the pre- 
ceding voyage, though they had not as yet occurred to so great an extent. 
In proceeding to the westward, up Hudson’s Strait, where, by a gradual 
approach to the magnetic pole, the dip of the needle regularly increases, a 
proportional increment in the effects of local attraction was also found to 
take place, displaying itself as well in the amount of what has been termed 
the deviation, as by the sluggishness with which the compasses tra- 
versed. About the time of our making Southampton Island, the card of 
Walker’s azimuth compass which, on account of its graduated metal rim, is 
more heavy than the others, became too sluggish to depend upon. Those of 
Alexander, which were the lightest and best of our steering compasses on the 
common construction, began also to require constant tapping or shaking. Cap- 
tain Kater’s excellent azimuth compasses, which unite lightness, sensibility, 
and accuracy, required, though in an infinitely smaller degree, the same 
precautions to assist them in traversing. These phenomena, the olserva- 
tions on which are given in detail in the Appendix, had for the present sea- 
son attained their maximum, Repulse Bay being the nearest approach 
that can be made to the magnetic pole, by sea, in this direction. Accord- 


* Middleton has, in his published log, set down the variation in Repulse Bay as 50° west, 
and at Cape Frigid 45°, making a difference of five degrees in a distance of eleven or twelve 
leagues. Rapid as the changes in the variation are here, this difference appears to me too 
great to attribute to any thing but a change in the Furnace’s course ; and I cannot but con- 
sider it as extremely creditable to Middleton to have faithfully recorded a fact, of which, at 
that time, no probable explanation could be given, and which might, therefore, have sub- 
jected him to a charge of inaccuracy or misrepresentation. . 


1821, 
August. 
aw 


1821. 
August. 
wry 


54 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


ingly we here found a more than ordinary degree of sluggishness in the 
compasses, both on board the ships and on shore. ‘The Fury’s head was to- 
day constantly north-west on one tack and north-east on the other, the 
wind remaining steadily fixed in the northern quarter; and in making ebser- 
vations for te dip.on shore, it was with considerable difficulty that the true 
direction of the magnetic meridian could be determined, the small horizon- 
tal needle attached to the instrument for that purpose having become alto- 
gether useless, and one of Kater’s differing several degrees in two or three 
succeeding observations. 

From our place of observation on shore we hada distinct view of Cape 
Hope, which is high and bluff, as well as of the land to the eastward of it, 
running towards Beach Point, which becomes lower, as described by Cap- 
tain Middleton. Indeed the whole account he has given of this hay, with 
the exception of its geographical position, is in general very accurate, par- 
ticularly in the appearance of the lands, their relative situation, and in 
the nature and depth of the soundings. With respect to the Frozen 
Strait, through which we passed with less difficulty than usual in the 
navigation of those seas,—thus, for the first time, determining by actual 
examination the insularity of that portion of land which by anticipation 
has long been called Southampton Island,—there can be little doubt that the 
account Middleton has giver of its appearance, as seen from Cape Frigid, is 
in the main a faithfulone. In that view it would seem to be ‘almost full of 
long small islands ;” nor is there any improbability of its having been, at the 
time of his visit, covered with ice, which might appear to be “ fast to both 
shores,” presenting to a person so situated a hopeless prospect of penetrating 
through it to the northward. Above all, the accuracy of Captain Middleton 
is manifest upon the point most strenuously argued against him by Mr. Dobbs; 
for our subsequent experience has not left the smallest doubt of Repulse 
Bay and the northem part of the Welcome being filled by a rapid tide flowing 
into it from the eastward through the Frozen Strait. 

From twenty-two minutes after seven A.M. till twelve minutes past one 
P.M., when we left the shore, the tide was constantly ebbing, and fell seven 
feet three inches in that time, from which 1 concluded the time of high water 
this morning to have been about ten minutes past seven, and a quarter after 
eleven on full and change days. The tide was tried on board every hour 
during the forenoon, and found to set.as follows : 


8 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 


he At 9 A.M. no perceptible tide (qu. high water by the stream 7) 1821. 

ies ; » 10 ,,_ the tide set S.E.b.S., 4 a mile per hour. Augie 
aa | ay » ° S.E.b.E., } mile 5 

he : » Noon % S.E. 1 mile. + 

er- : 


Soon after we got on board, Lieutenant Palmer returned from the exa- 


sais mination of the north-western bight, which he named Ginson’s Cove, and of 
me which he delivered to me, together with his report, a sketch shewing its 
hor soundings and general outline and, what alone was very important, the 
- continuity of land all round it. Lieutenant Palmer’s report stated that he 

had rowed close in-shore all round the bay, and had found it ‘ terminate 
a in a small cove, having a deep ravine running into it on the western side.” 


Thus was the question settled as to the continuity of land round Repulse 
Ap” x Bay, and the doubts and conjectures, which had so long been entertained 
respecting it, set at rest for ever. 


56 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


CHAPTER III. 


RETURN TO THE EASTWARD THROUGH THE FROZEN STRAIT—DISCOVERY OF HURD 
CHANNEL—EXAMINED IN A BOAT—LOSS OF THE FURY’S ANCHOR—PROVIDENTIAL 
ESCAPE OF THE FURY FROM SHIPWRECK——ANCHOR IN DUCKETT COVE—FURTHER 
EXAMINATION OF THE COAST BY BOATS AND WALKING-PARTIES—SHIPS PROCEED 
THROUGH HURD CHANNEL—ARE DRIFTED BY THE ICE BACK TO SOUTHAMPTON ISLAND 
—UNOBSTRUCTED RUN TO THE ENTRANCE OF A LARGE INLET LEADING TO THE NORTH- 
WESTWARD—SHIPS MADE FAST BY HAWSERS TO THE ROCKS—FURTHER EXAMINATION 

OF THE INLET COMMENCED IN THE BOATS. 

1821. 

pl de Havine now satisfactorily determined the non-existence of a passage to the 
Wed. 22. westward through Repulse Bay, to which point I was particularly directed 
- in my Instructions, and which, for the reasons detailed in the commence- 
ment of the preceding Chapter, I had confidentiy considered as part of 
the American continent, it now remained foi me, in compliance with my 
orders, to ‘ keep along the line of this coast to the northward, always ex- 
amining every bend or inlet which might appear likely to afford a practicable 
passage to the westward.” It was here, indeed, that our voyage, as regarded 
its main object, may be said to have commenced, and we could not but con- 
gratulate ourselves on having reached this point so early, and especially at 
having passed almost without impediment the strait to which, on nearly the 
same day * seventy-nine years before, so forbidding a name had been applied. 
As soon as the boats were hoisted up, all sail was made along shore to the 
eastward, the wind being light off the northern land; and we could plainly 
perceive the low shore which runs to the southward and eastward of Cape 
Hope, as faras the latitude of 66° 14’, from whence the researches of the 
present Expedition on the coast of the American continent are, therefore, to 
be considered as commencing. We also saw the land en the eastern side of 
the Welcome, about Cape Frigid, but as we had no opportunity of closely 


* Middleton discovered the Frozen Strait on the 20th of August, 1742, according to the 
New Style. 


\ 


y 


a 
i 
nas 
te 
a 
Z 
Th: 
te 


a 


Ue 
i 
Tae 
ie 
mec 
ic 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 57 


examining those parts, the breadth of this passage into the Welcome, as well 
as the general outline of both coasts to the southward of this, are laid down 
in the chart, from Captain Middleton’s account of their relative position, but 
with their latitudes and longitudes corrected by our observations. Of the 
exact situation of Cape Frigid there will perhaps always remain some doubt ; 
but from an attentive examination of Captain Middleton’s account, I believe 
that we cannot be far from the truth in considering it as the northern extreme 
of Southampton Island, near which we tried for anchorage on the evening of 
the 20th. After clearing Repulse Bay we came to some ice that the wind 
was now drifting off the northern shore, which had before been loaded with 
it by a breeze from the opposite quarter, so that we were once more fortunate 
in finding a tolerably clear sea. At the back of this is a bay of considerable 
size, which I named after the Reverenp James Havitanp, of Bath. The 
wind continued moderate at night, but with dark cloudy weather, obliging 
us to heave-to for several hours, lest any small islands with which we were 
unacquainted should lic in our way. 


All sail was made at daylight on the 23d along the northern shore of the Thur. 23. 


Frozen Strait, which here continues about the same height as that of Repulse 
Bay, and was at this time quite free from snow. At nine A.M. the weather 
became squally with thick snow, which rendered great caution necessary in 
running. Soon after noon we perceived, during the intervals of clearer weather 
which occasionally took place, that the land we were approaching was some- 
what broken, and in one place appeared to consist only of islands, between 
which no land was visible at the back. There was something in the appear- 
ance of this part of the coast which held out so favourable a prospect of a 
direct passage to the northward, that I determined more closely to examine it. 
Having beat up to the mouth of an opening which, the nearer we approached, 
assumed a more and more favourable appearance, we found that a body of ice 
occupied the greater part of the channel, rendering it impracticable then to enter 
it either with the ships or the boats. The only mode left, therefore, of examin- 
ing it without loss of time, was to despatch a party equipped for travelling by 
land, to ascertain enough of its extent and communications to enable me to 
decide as to our farther progress. As, however, in their present situation, I 
did not feel myself justified in leaving the ships, I requested Captain Lyon 

to undertake this service. He was accompanied by Mr. Bushnan and two 

seamen from each ship, and was furnished with a tent, blankets, and four 

days’ provisions. In the mean time, as there was very little ice near us 

I 


: # ig > RIE ER GRP OE es 
sia gpg owes : reece tyra de 


ae cel ca ac 


eee 


1821. 
August. 
ww 


58 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


except what was in the mouth of the inlet, and that appeared to be coming 
quickly out with the wind, I thought the safest way for the ships, as well as 
to secure the quick return of Captain Lyon and his party, would be to anchor, 
which we did in thirteen fathoms, upon a hard bottom, at the distance of 
one mile from the shore. As soon as the anchors were dropped, we found 
that the tide came out of the inlet, and then set to the westward, at the rate 
of a mile an hour; and as we had reason to believe, as indeed it afterwards 
proved, that this was the flood-tide, our hopes of here finding a passage to 
the northward, so as at least to save us the necessity of pursuing the more 
circuitous route round the lands we had left to the southward and eastward, 
received great encouragement. 

Shortly after Captain Lyon left us, the loose though heavy ice, which had 
at first blocked up the mouth of the inlet, began to drive towards the Fury, 
coming at times with considerable force against the bows and across the 
chain-cable. By attending to the helm and watching the ice carefully, we 
contrived at first to avoid the heavier masses, and I was in hopes that it 
would in a short time have drifted past us, while the northerly breeze would 
prevent its return with the ensuing tide. In this hope I was, however, disap- 
pointed, for after three hours that the inlet had thus been pouring out its ice, it 
became more abundant as well as heavier than at first, and at seven o’clock we 
could no longer avoid frequent and violent shocks. At half pastseven when, 
by the time of high water in Repulse Bay, we had reason to expect the tide 
would begin to slacken, it had on the contrary increased its velocity to two 
miles an hour; and some large pieces of ice coming athwart-hawse brought 
the anchor home, causing it to drag along the ground with a harsh grinding 
sound. The Hecla having anchored a little to the westward of us happened 
to be just out of the stream of this tide, so that the greater part of the ice 
passed without touching her. As however there was reason to apprehend 
that some turn or eddy might also endanger her, I made Lieutenant Hoppner’s 
signal to weigh, having already begun to do so on board the Fury. This 
was not easily accomplished, for on heaving at the cable it was found to have 
cut its way into a heavy mass of ice which hung across it, and which it 
required more than half an hour’s labour to clear, and when we had done so 
another piece immediately fixed itself in the same manner, dragging the 
anchor with renewed violence along the rocky ground. As soon as this had 
been disengaged the anchor was hove up with the utmost alacrity, and would 
have been saved if the most strenuous exertions of the officers and men could 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 59 


have effected it, but I was much mortified to find on its coming to the bows 
that both flukes were broken off, the iron stock being polished quite bright by 
rubbing against the rocks. The Hecla succeeded in purchasing her anchor 
without its sustaining any injury, after which we made fast to two floe- 
pieces during the night, and the Hecla kept company by means of our light, 
the weather being dark and cold with much sleet and rain. 


1821. 
ugust. 
Lad 


I expected to have beenunavoidably driven far to the southward and east- Frid. 24. 


ward by the fresh north-west wind which was now blowing, and was therefore 
not alittle surprised to find at daylight that we had scarcely lost any ground, 
being still off the inlet which Captain Lyon was examining. This circum- 
stance I particularly notice, because it was the first of several instances that 
occurred of our observing the flood-tide to set stronger to the north-west than 
the ebb to the south-east in the Frozen Strait, which on this occasion must 
have been the case, to balance the effects of a fresh north-westerly wind. 
Soon after daylight we made sail and stood in towards the inlet, but the 
wind failing us we were before noon driven seven or cight miles to the west- 
ward. The day proved extremely thick and wet, being as uncomfortable for 
our shore party, as unfavourable for the prosecution of their object. At 
thirty minutes after three P.M., we were off a small rocky islet, lying at the 
distance of two miles and a half from the land, and near the mouth of a 
second inlet, six or seven miles to the westward of the other, and which as 
we afterwards found makes an island of the intervening land. We here 
found the tide of ebb setting us between the islet and the main land, and 
towards the inlet withal. The wind being very light we were obliged to 
let the ships drive through within the islet, having from thirteen to twenty- 
five fathoms, at the distance of one-third of a mile from it. By keeping 
all the boats a-head for several hours we then towed the ships off-shore 
before dark. 

The wind was too light to enable us to keep our station during the night, and 
at daylight on the 25th we found ourselves as usual several miles to the west- 
ward. A breeze springing up soon afterwards from the northward enabled 
us to stand along the land, but such was the strength of the flood-tide against 
us, though almost at the dead of the neaps, that when sailing three knots 
and a half through the water, we did not advance to the eastward above a mile 
an hour and at times much less than this, In the course of the forenoon the 
quantity of ice in sight increased so much that the strait was almost covered 


with it, and the wind afterwards becoming scant we were gradually led off the 
12 


Sat. 25. 


60 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


Pied land, in spite of every endeavour to regain the mouth of the inlet. In the after- 
rw noon the ice became so close, though the masses were constantly and rapidly 
in motion among themselves, that it was impracticable any longer to keep 
under way, and we were just about to make the Fury fast. to a large floe- 
piece when I was informed that our boat was coming off from the shore, from 
which we were then distant eight or nine miles. At four P.M. Captain Lyon 
and his party disembarked on the opposite side of a broad stream of ice which 
intervened betwixt us, and some fresh hands being despatched to assist in 
dragging the boat over the ice, they soon arrived safely on board. The 
account of Captain Lyon’s excursion and of his discoveries within the 
inlet, on which the future operations of the Expedition principally depended, o 
I need offer no apology for giving in his own words. 


F 
iff) 
1 
i) 
1 
i 
i 


Thur. 23. ‘On leaving the Fury, we pulled to the eastern point of the high land 
which formed the western boundary of the inlet, and in half an hour landed 
on a steep rocky point, near which much heavy ice lay aground. We then 
with our tent and baggage proceeded to a high barren hill to the northward, 
from whence we cleariy perceived that we were on an island of about five 
miles in length, and two or three in breadth. To the northward and east- 
ward lay a broad strait, (which, at the part nearest us, was above a mile 
across,) running east and west. Previous to descending the hill, Mr, Bushnan 
and myself took such bearings as the weather would permit, and as it was 
dark by the time we arrived at the boat, I determined on remaining where 
we were for the night; we therefore pitched our tent on the rocks, and 
lay down until the morning. During the night, the ice set out past the 
point we lay on, at the rate of at least four knots, and the pressure occa- 
sioned it to break with loud and sharp reports, as it passed the low rocks 


Hi 
i 
i) 
Nb 
+ 
i | 
ih 
my | 
i) 


and grounded pieces, over which it became piled in many places to a great a 
height. a 
Frid, 24. “‘ Much rain fell during the night, which was dark and cold with a light a 


wind, At two A.M., before the day began to break, we found that it 
was slack water, but the eastern entrance was literally packed with ice, a 
through which a passage was impossible. The grounded pieces, however, q 
being very heavy, afforded us an occasional channel of clear water between 
them and the rocks. We therefore launched our boat, and by tracking and 
rowing, succeeded, after nearly two hours’ labour, in reaching the northern 


Segbapmsinante aioe 


Se a a ee 
Soar 


ee 


—— . 
~ SS - cs 
=o 
— 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE, 61 


point of the island, (which I named after Mr. Busunan,) and finding tole- 
rably open water, we then crossed the strait in the direction of a high bluff, 
which we had seen from Bushnan’s Island. 

‘‘ About half way across the strait we passed a rocky island, of about three 
quarters of a mile in extent. On rounding a small bluff, on which were great 
numbers of the /arus argentatus and their young, we saw some deer feeding ; 
and a little farther on, a she-bear and her cub ran close to the water, appa- 
rently watching us. I named the place, Bear Island. Crossing the inlet, 
(whose breadth at this part may be estimated at three miles,) we landed on 
a steep point, up which we immediately hauled the boat. From this point, 
which I called Care Montacu, I observed the strait still to trend to the 
eastward, and the north side appeared bounded by land at about seven 
miles. We left the boat and proceeded to a high and remarkable hill called 
Brooks’s Biurr, which was but indistinctly seen, owing to the continued and 
heavy rain. We had scarcely arrived on the summit, when a very heavy 
snow storm set in and in a short time covered the mountain, and limited our 
sight to a few yards. We therefore took a hasty breakfast, and after some 
difficulty and no little danger again descended. 

«At nine A.M., the weather cleared up alittle and the snow ceased, but 
rain continued to fall. From Brooks’s Bluff a valley runs to the eastward, 
and is nearly occupied by a lake of about three miles in circumference. 
Along the bank of this lake we pursued our route and, on leaving it, 
passed many smaller ones and crossed several valleys. At about an hour 
before noon, after having passed several rocky and barren hills of granite 
which bounded and intersected the valleys, we arrived unexpectedly on a 
high cliff, which looked down toa small strait at its foot, trending N.b.W. 
and S.b.E., and at this part about a good mile in breadth. Our farther pro- 
gress eastward being now stopped, I decided on following the strait to the 
northward as far as the day would permit. Mr. Bushnan and one man accom- 
panied me, and the other three remained behind to pitch the tent and endea- 
vour to light a fire of moss. 

“In our walk we passed the remains of many Esquimaux habitations, but 
none of them appeared to have been inhabited for many years. We also pro- 
cured a mountain marmot, (arctomys alpina,) which we chased under a large 
stone, but were unable to take alive. After having walked about six miles from 
our first setting out, we arrived at the end of this little strait, which termi- 


1821. 
August. 
wry 


1821. 
August. 


62 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


nated in a large space of open water, having land, apparently an island or 


wy~ islands, at about four miles to the northward, beyond which the continued 


Sat. 25. 


thick weather permitted us to see no horizon. In the evening the rain 
ceased for the first time since our leaving the ships, and we contrived to 
make a fire. As the rocks were covered with wet spongy moss, we paved. 
our tent with rough stones, and by means of our fire were enabled to dry 
some of the andromeda tetragona, which, with the addition of ashes, made 
a most comfortable bed. 

* During the night much snow fell, and in the morning we found the rocks 
covered with it. At five A.M., we proceeded over the hills to the southward. 
In an hour's walk in that direction, we arrived at a small bay about a mile in 
extent, in which some very heavy ice was lying aground. A bluff point on 
the south side terminated the small inlet, which here opens into the larger 
strait. We coasted the large strait westerly, as nearly as the nature of the shore 
would permit, in a strait line, and arrived at Cape Montagu a little before nine 
A.M. Onthe shore and the rocks which overhang it were several remains 
of Esquimaux settlements, many of which had soot still on their fire-places. 
We also saw several very perfect little store-rooms for their provisions, con- 
structed of rough stones, and about six feet by three in extent. Some of the 
ground-plans of the huts differed from those seen in Repulse Bay, and one in 
particular was remarkable, being thus formed : 


evel 


“The extent was about twenty-five feet by fifteen, and at either end the 
ground was a little raised as if for sleeping-places. We also passed a singular 
assemblage of flat stones, set up edgeways, each about three yards apart, and 
extending at least for five hundred yards, down to a small lake situated in 
a grassy valley. 


Ss 
te, 
ies 
Kee 
ig 


Le rmi L fees 


SE 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 63 


“We observed from Cape Montagu that the eastern entrance was quite 
blocked up with ice. Bear Island was also surrounded by immense 
masses, and others were carried past it at the rate of about four miles per 
hour by the tide. Ata little past ten A.M., the ice having slackened so as 
to allow of our going over to Bear Island, we soon reached it, from whence 
we could observe and take advantage of any open water. We found that 
although at half tide this was an island, three distinct isles are formed at 
high water. At twenty minutes past ten A.M. it was high water, which was 
an extremely interesting fact to have ascertained, as it removed any doubt 
respecting the direction of the tide. 

‘“‘ Kinding the ice was at this time tolerably tranquil, we picked our way 
through it, and in about two hours and a half reached a small islet half a 
mile to the southward of Bushnan’s Island. On this we landed and saw one 
ship eight or ten miles to the 8.8.W. We remained here one hour to dinc ; 
and by a pole, which we had set up on landing, found the tide to have 
ebbed three feet. We then proceeded towards the ship, having fitted a 
blanket as a sail for our boat, and most fortunately arrived at night-fall near 
the Fury. The ice which lay in the Frozen Strait being in very rapid motion, 
we could not approach the ship; but after making what way we could amongst 
the loose pieces, we at length came to a large floe, near which the Fury had 
made fast in a thick fog which then came on. Captain Parry sent his peo- 
ple to haul our boat over the ice to the ship, which was close beset, and I 
remained on board her for the night, my own ship being sep2ated from her 
by the ice. Unsatisfactory as our short journey had been, on account of the 
badness of the weather, there was still sufficient to cause the most lively 
interest, and give strong hopes of the existence of some passage to the north- 
east of the small inlet I had examined.” 


A thick fog coming on immediately after Captain Lyon’s arrival, we could 
not but consider ourselves fortunate in having picked our party up so 
opportunely. The Hecla having in the course of the day been separated 
from us seven or eight miles, in consequence of the ice carrying her to the 
westward, Captain Lyon remained on board the Fury duriag the night, 
when the plan of our future operations was determined on. The result 
of the late examination, imperfect as it necessarily was on account of the 
extremely unfavourable state of the weather, was sufficient to excite the 


1821. 
August. 
ww 


SSeS 


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; aT ai 
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im 
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| 


64 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


strongest belief that some communication, not very indirect, must exist 
between the Frozen Strait and a sea to the northward and eastward of it; 
and it was determined, therefore, to leave nothing undone to ascertain and 
follow up this communication. As, however, the narrowness of the chan- 
nels, together with our present ignorance of their depth, the strength of the 
tides, and the quantity of ice with which the sea was loaded, rendered the 
attempt extremely hazardous without further examination, the first and 
most important object appeared to be, to find near one of the entrances, (of 
which Captain Lyon recommended the western,) a secure anchorage for the 
ships during the time necessary for prosecuting this examination. I, there- 
fore, proposed to Captain Lyon that whenever the situation of the ice 
would permit, he should proceed in a boat to the western entrance, to 
endeavour to find such an anchorage, directing his attention solely to this 
object and reserving all further examination till the ships should be there 
secured. This service Captain Lyon gladly undertook to perform, and 
Mr. Bushnan was again appointed to accompany him. An event was, how- 
ever, about to occur which threatened very seriously as well as unex- 
pectedly to interfere with these arrangements. 

At eight P.M. having shoaled the water from sixty to forty, and then to 
thirty-two fathoms, and the weather still continuing extremely thick, I sus- 
pected that the tide was taking us too close to Passage Island, which was the 
nearest land when the fog came on. As the water seemed tolerably clear for 
a few hundred yards, which was the extent of our view, I ordered the ship 
to be got under sail in order to be in greater readiness for acting as circum- 
stances might require. The ice, however, once more became so thick about us 
that, with the light wind then blowing, it was found impracticable to force 
the ship through it. While we were thus employed the fog suddenly cleared 
away, and we found ourselves within three-quarters of a mile of the east end 
of the island. A large space of open water was at this time not more than a 
quarter of a mile distant from us in the opposite direction, but before the ship 
could be moved by warps or by any other means within our power, the tide 
was observed to be setting her directly between the island and the little 
yellow-looking rock I have before mentioned as lying on its eastern side. 
Seeing that every exertion of ours was fruitless to prevent driving with the 
tide, which was setting at about the rate of a mile and a half an hour, it be- 
came expedient to relinquish that attempt, and to endeavour only to keep the 
ship as nearly as possible in mid-channel. The anchors were kept ready to 


drop in an instant should the ship drive into shoal water ; for had we grounded, 
and the heavy masses of ice continued to ‘drive upon us, little less than the total 
destruction of the ship was to be apprehended. The natural direction of the 


stream, however, effected for us that which, hampered as we were, our own: 
exertions must have failed in accomplishing; the ship drove through, at. 


the distance of one hundred yards from the rock and about one hundred and 
forty from Passage Island, having no less than twelve fathoms ; and soon after 
deepened the water to thirty-five and forty, and then to no bottom with 
ninety. 

After this providential escape, we lay-to within the island, in order to drift 
to the northward and westward of it with the flood-tide, which runs stronger 
here than in any other part of the Frozen Strait. The night was fine but 
extremely dark, so that after ten o’clock we could not distinguish where the 
land lay, and the compasses could not be depended on.. After an ineffectual 
attempt to push through the ice towards the middle of the Strait, in order to 
avoid the danger of being entangled among the numerous islands lying off. 
this shore, we were literally obliged to let the ship take her chance, keeping 
the lead going and the anchors in readiness. 

I have never yet been able to conjecture on which side of the island the 
Fury was afterwards drifted out. The soundings, however, continued deep 
and, at day-light on the 26th, after a most anxious night, we found ourselves 
about the middle of the Strait, and as usual drifted by the tide some distance 
to the northward and westward. A breeze which at this time sprung up from. 
that quarter enabicd us nearly to fetch the western inlet, where we now pro- 
posed to search for an anchorage. The Hecla having got clear of the ice the, 
preceding evening, and narrowly escaped an adventure similar to that which 
we had experienced, rejoined us early in the morning, when Captain Lyon 
returned to her.to prepare a boat for his intended excursion. ._We then stood 
in under all sail for the land, and at eleven A.M. Captain Lyon left the Hecla, 
while the ships tacked off and on to await his return. The day was fine and 
clear; and as. the ice occasioned us no disturbance we were enabled to give 
the people several hours’ rest, of which, from the exertions of the preceding 
night, they stood much in need. At nine P.M. Captain Lyon returned, 
acquainting me that he had met with a small bay having no stream of tide, 
and being at present clear of ice, he thought it might answer our purpose, 
but he wished me to see it before the ships were taken in. 

K 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 65 


1821. 
ugust. 
oad 


Sat. 26, 


ie pated ee 


" ; FeF3 = RSS PR. “0 — Sibi 1S toes A te saestond 
— Se ce ee Ee ae aa ieee a or ox a ee —_— ae = = 
Sn SCT 8 ERE md Be eat e : - . sao) ote ws = ae 3 er SS pe 
“ ~~ Te ae: ee = . _ a7 * 5 
= 5 = ig he aj + a= a ~ nb - x = ——s - 
= IAT SES tn ae Ea fae - aay ee _— > 


1821. 
August. 
wy 


Mon. 27. 


66 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


We continued lying to, therefore, for the rest of the night; and at 
five A.M. on the 27th, I left the Fury, taking with me Mr. Bushnan 
to point out the place in question. On reaching the bay, we found that 
the ice had during the night almost entirely filled it; but on ascending a 
hill we observed another and apparently a secure cove, on the opposite or 
north shore, to which we immediately proceeded. Having placed a flag on 
a mass of grounded ice, near a shoal point at the entrance, and sounded 
every part of the cove, which was found to afford good anchorage, we rowed 
out to the ships. 

Returning on board at eleven A.M., I found that the state of the weather 
had prevented any observation of the eclipse of the sun which took place 
this morning; and Mr. Fisher could only just perceive the penumbra passing 
over it. Having despatched Mr. Bushnan to the Hecla as a pilot, all sail was 
immediately made for the inlet, as I was anxious to save the flood-tide in 
case of the ships grounding. A strong breeze was now blowing from the 
north-west, which carried the Fury through the water at the rate of seven 
knots, notwithstanding which she did not advance above three miles an 
hour over the ground when in the strength of the tide, and in mid-channel. 
On rounding the shoal point on which the flag had been placed, I was sur- 
prised to find the water shoal to four, three, and two and three quarter 
fathoms ; but a press of canvass giving the ship a considerable heel, she for- 
tunately did not touch the ground. As soon as we had anchored, I found 
that this circumstance had arisen from the mass of grounded ice having 
shifted its position by floating with the rise of tide. A boat was therefore 
despatched to lie off the reef, as a guide to the Hecla; and Captain Lyon 
reached the anchorage in safety at one P.M. We lay here in twelve ta 
fifteen fathoms at low water, on a bottom of tough mud, affording excellent 
holding-ground. Indeed on almost every part of this coast we found the 


ground equally good, at the distance of two or three cables’ lengths from the. 


shore, whereas it is almost invariably rocky in the deeper water of the offing. 

A boat from each ship being immediately prepared, Captain Lyon and my- 
self left the cove at three P.M. to proceed on the proposed examination. We 
separated at Point Cheyne, Captain Lyon having pointed out to me the broad 
eastern channel from which the tide appeared to come, and which it was my 
intention to examine, while he directed his attention to the smaller passage he 
had described as leading to the northward. It was agreed that we should 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 67 


return to the ships with as little delay as was consistent with the object we 
had in view, namely, to ascertain through which of the two channels it was 
expedient or practicable to bring tlie ships. 

I found that the northern siiore near which there was no ice, and which is 
here separated from the other to the distance of two or three leagues, was 
that to which our course should be directed, in order to obtain a distinct view 
of the neighbouring lands. We therefore steered for the highest hill, which 
rises perhaps from twelve to fourteen hundred feet above the level of the 
sea. The wind freshening up to a gale from the westward, we reached the 
beach at seven P.M., having obtained no soundings with fourteen to twenty 
fathoms of line in the course of our run. We found a good deal of surf upon 
the beach, which is a rough and stony one, requiring some caution to prevent 
swamping or staving the boat. While the men were carrying up the things 
and pitching the tents, Mr. Ross and myself were occupied in taking the 
angles for the survey, it being too late to set out on our intended excursion to 
the hills. We found our tents, drenched as they were by the sea, extremely 
comfortable. They were of the kind called horsemen’s tents and made of 
canvass instead of blanketing. The shelter they afford when aided by the 
warmth of a blanket made into a bag, and a dry suit of clothes for sleeping in, 
give no bad accommodation, so long as the temperature of the atmosphere 
does not fall more than two or three degrees below the freezing point. 

The breeze moderated soon after our landing and a fine clear night suc- 


ceeded. At four in the morning, Mr. Ross and myself ascended the Tues, 28. 


nearest hill, in the hope of being able to satisfy ourselves respecting the 
existence of a passage for the ships, in at least one direction. 1 therefore 
directed the tents to be struck and every thing to be in readiness for moving 
on our return. On reaching the summit of the first hill, however, we found, 
as is not unfrequently the case, that our view was but little improved, and that 
no prospect could be obtained to the northward, without ascending the higher 
hill seen the preceding evening, and which we now found still several miles 
beyond us. As therefore no satisfactory information could be gained without 
giving up the day to this object, we immediately returned to the tents to breakfast, 
with the intention of then setting out, accompanied by two of the men. 
While preparing for this, I felt so much indisposed with a sick-head ach 
that, being apprehensive of laying myself up at a time when I could least 
afford to do. so, I. determined to intrust the proposed service to Mr. Ross, in 
whose zeal and ability to accomplish it I felt the utmost confidence. Mr. Ross 
K 2 


1821. 
August. 
ww 


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August. 


68 


SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


and his party accordingly set out for the hill at six A.M. During their 
absence I employed myself in obtaining the usual observations and in notic- 
ing the height, direction, and time of the tides. By observing the motion 
of the fragments of ice I found that, although there was on this shore a 
considerable rise of the water, there was little or no perceptible current 
on either tide, except within a mile or two of the high southern land where 
it ran very strong, the flood to the westward, and the ebb in the opposite 
direction. This belt of tide, as it were, ran between a considerable opening x 
to the south-east, and that through which we had come from the ships, and 4 
it was only in this space that any ice was at present to be seen. These circum- 4 
stances tended to strengthen the opinion I had at first formed, that the main 3 
outlet into the sea from whence this ice came would be found by following 
the ebb-tide, which unquestionably ran to the eastward. ' I was still in hopes, 
however, that notwithstanding the absence of ice, and of any perceptible 
stream of tide, in the more northerly channel which Captain Lyon was ex- 
amining, some more direct, though perhaps narrower, communication might 
be found, that would save us much time and trouble. The appearance of the 
land, which seemed to consist of alarge assemblage of islands, greatly favoured 
this hope ; nor was it discouraged by the accounts received in the evening on 
the return of our party from the hills. Mr. Ross reported that having reached 
a commanding hill, he found himself overlooking a sea of considerable extent 
to the eastward, and washing the foot of the hill on which he stood. This sca 
appeared to have some islands scattered about it, and was ‘much encumbered 
with ice. To the south-eastward there seemed to be several openings between 
islands, of which the land we stood then upon appeared to form one, the sea 
sweeping round to the northward and westward, as if to join the strait dis- 


covered by Captain Lyon. Mr. Ross described the country over which he a 
passed as much intersected by lakes, some of them not less than two or three 

miles in length, and having in their neighbourhood abundance of grass, moss, y 
and other fine feeding for the deer. The report of Mr. Ross accompanied by a 


an eye-sketch made upon the spot left no doubt of the existence of an outlet 7 
to the eastward, and enabled me to decide without hesitation upon attempting 
the passage of the narrows with the ships, leaving our subsequent route to be 
determined on according to the report of Captain Lyon. 

The rocks upon this coast, as well as those in the interior, are composed of . 
gneiss, traversed occasionally by veins of quartz and feldspar, and having a 
intermixed with it much of a green substance which we took to be epidote, 4 


their 
\otic- 
otion 
pre a 
rrent 
yhere 
osite 
ning 
, and 
‘cum- 
main 
wing 


opes, 
ptible 
AS EX- 
might 
yf the 
oured 


t dis- 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 69 


and which we had not met with so abundantly anywhere else. On the sur- 
face of the ground, but most especially near the beach, were many loose 
pieces of limestone of a white colour and quite sharp-edged. On the banks 
of the lakes the vegetation was quite luxuriant, giving them when viewed 
from an eminence and assisted by bright sunshine a cheerful and picturesque 
appearance. There was no snow upon the land, except here and there a 
broad thick patch in the hollows, where it may probably remain year after ycar 
undissolved ; but with the exception of these patches, there was nothing in the 
appearance of the country to remind one of being near the polar circle. 
Piles of stones and the remains of Esquimaux habitations, were everywhere 
to be seen, and Mr. Ross met with their marks even on the highest hills ; but 
none appeared of recent date. The rein-deer were here very numerous. 
Mr. Ross saw above fifty in the course of his walk, and several others were 
met with near the tents. A large one was shot by one of the men, who 
struck the animal, as he lay on the ground, a blow on the head with the 
butt-end of his piece, and leaving him for dead ran towards the tents for a 
knife to bleed and skin him; when the deer very composedly got on his legs, 
swam across a lake, and finally escaped. A small fawn was the only one 
killed. Three black whales and a few seals were playing about near the 
beach. 

Our people being somewhat fatigued with walking were allowed to rest 


1821. 


August. 
wyyey 


till half past one on the morning of the 29th, when it being high water the Wed. 29. 


tents were struck and the boat loaded. The morning was beautifully clear 
and tranquil, and the Aurora Borealis was faintly visible at break of day in 
the south-west quarter of the heavens. Leaving the shore before two o'clock, 
we steered for an island in the direction of Point Cheyne, and landed to 
breakfast on a rock off its eastern end. The water is very shoal on the north 
and east sides of this island ; the southern side is bold, the whole surface 
rocky, and composed entirely of gneiss. Proceeding towards Point Cheyne, 
we first began to perceive the influence of a stream of tide, as we approached 
some heavy ice about a mile from the point, which we found to be aground 
upon a shoal in twelve to seventeen feet, lying abreast of an island called 
by Captain Lyon, Rouse Istanp. Over this shoal the ebb-tide was running 
from the N.N.W., at the rate of three miles an hour, to join the main 
stream which sets to the eastward along the south shore. After taking 
marks for the shoal, which lies rather in the way of a ship coming through 
this channel, we rowed over to the point. The strength of the tide gradu- 


Sao ons 


ea Sees ARR ee 
SSS SSS 
>. ae ae = a 


70 


SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


ally increased as we approached the narrows, where it was running full six 


wr~ miles an hour in the middle of the stream, it being now about the height of 


the springs. We landed fora short time on Point Cheyne to obtain sights 
for the chronometer, and some essential angles for the survey ; the boat’s 
crew in the mean time warming and amusing themselves in hunting an 
ermine which, by the quickness of its tuming and the shelter afforded by 
the stones, escaped from them at last. Having placed a flag on this point, as 
a mark for the ships, no time was lost in setting out for the cove which, 
after taking all the soundings and marks which the strength of the tide would 
permit, we reached at a quarter before ten A.M. I found that Captain Lyon 
had returned on board the preceding evening, having accomplished his 
object in a shorter time than was expected. Captain Lyon’s account of his 
excursion is here subjoined : 


*‘ Separating from Captain Parry at Point Cheyne, Mr. Bushnan and myself 
proceeded to the examination of the sea to the northward of the little channel 
before discovered, at which we arrived in three hours from the time of our 
leaving the ships; and, on reaching the bar already mentioned, we saw the 
bottom all across; it appeared rocky, and some large fish were swimming 
over it, which our people supposed to be salmon. The breadth, it being 
dead low water, we estimated at one cable’s length, and the depth we found to 
be twenty-four feet. As we traced the northern part of the inlet we found 
a long rolling ground-swell setting in; it broke occasionally, and caused 
the boat to pitch nearly bows under. This was remarkable, as being the 
first sea of the kind we had met with since leaving the Atlantic, and therefore 
excited considerable hope that we should find some outlet to the northward. 
The depth of water was here thirteen fathoms. 

“« In consequence of our inability to round the extreme point, we landed just 
within it, and from the unaccommodating form of the rocks, were under the 
necessity of carrying the boat on our backs above three hundred yards be- 
fore we could place her in safety. On the north side of the point we found a 
regularly shelving beach, covered with rounded shingle, on which a heavy 
surf was breaking, the wind being strong from the northward. We now saw 
the land all round us, forming an ‘mmense bay, and took the requisite bear- 
ings of remarkable points. We observed that, notwithstanding the swell 
have mentioned, there was no perceptible stream of tide. The night was 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 71 


fine and we pitched our tent on some smooth gravel, evidently so levelled by 
the Esquimaux. At midnight two large black whales came from the south- 
ward and passed into the bay. As the wind continued fresh from the north- 
ward and the surf was heavy, we did not take advantage of the morning tide 
on the 28th, but decided on waiting until afternoon. In the mean time 
Mr. Bushnan and myself took fresh bearings and obtained good sights for 
longitude, which we found to be 84° 30' 05”. 

“The tide had fallen to its lowest ebb at six A.M., sixteen feet. As the 
land appeared continuous to the westward, we ascended some mountains at 
about three miles in that direction, in order to look out for a course for our 
boat, when we should be able to float her. From hence we saw the northern 
land assume the appearance of a noble bay, having in it a few low islands. 
To the eastward we saw a large opening to the sea, which was distant about 
five leagues, and was the direction in which Captain Parry had proceeded. 
It was also evident that the land bounding the small strait, in that direction, 
was insular, and I therefore named it Grorcina IstaNp. We took new bear- 
ings and, having erected a conspicuous pile of stones to serve as the termi- 
nation of a base for our survey, we again descended to the point. At noon 
we obtained a good meridian altitude, which gave the latitude 66° 12’ 23”. 
We caught a large bee, apis alpina, and two small but beautiful butterflies, 
The people took two mice, and some deer were seen grazing at a distance. 
The rocks were chiefly of gray granite, but we also obtained interesting spe- 
cimens of other stones. At thirty minutes past twelve, the tide having risen 
so as to float our boat, we made sail to the westward to examine the only 
point which we supposed could bound any inlet, but finding the land conti- 
muous we again returned to the eastward. At the distance of one mile from 
the shore we could get no soundings with our boat’s lead at twenty-five fa- 
thoms, but nearer the beach it shoaled gradually, and I have no doubt that 
good anchorage would be found. Leaving the bay, which as a small token 
of gratitude I named after Rear-Apmirat Sir Joun Gore, I decided on 
going to the eastward of Georgina Island, and at half past three we passed its 
extreme point, where we found a snug bay about a mile in circumference 
having a small islet in its centre Soon after four P.M. we met, on entering 
the large strait, two of our boats, which had been sent to sound. Waiting 
with them on a low rocky point until the strength of the tide abated, we 
then returned on board by ten P.M.” 


ano me" 


Paes 


ge aS TR i ee ei gee. 


EE de 


1821. . 


August. 
ww 


Thur, 30. 


72 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


That no time might be lost in running the ships through the narrows, 1 
directed three boats from each to be prepared, for the purpose of sounding 
every part of this intricate, and as yet unknown, passage, which I named 
after Caprain Tuomas Hurp of the Royal Navy, Hydrographer to the Admi- 
ralty. Giving to the officer commanding each boat a certain portion to ac- 
complish, I reserved for my own examination the narrowest part of the chan- 
nel; and at thirty minutes past one P.M., as soon as the flood-tide began to 
slacken, we left the ships and continued our work till late at night, when 
having received the reports of the officers and made out a plan of the chunnel 
for each ship, I directed every thing to be in readiness for weighing at the 
last quarter of the ebb on the following morning. Much as I lamented this 
delay, at a period of the season when every moment was precious, it will not 
appear to have been unnecessary, when it is considered that the channel 
through which the ships were to be carried did not in some places exceed a 
mile in breadth, with half of that space encumbered with heavy masses 
of ice, and with an edd-tide of six knots running through it. 

The lines and kedges were prepared at daylight on the morning of the 
30th, but when the proper time of tide arrived there was not a breath of 
wind for working the ships, so that I was reluctantly obliged to remain at 
anchor till the next ebb. I therefore directed a large party of officers and 
men to be sent on shore in quest of game, three deer having been killed the 
preceding day. We had now however no success; a number of deer were 
seen in herds of from four to ten, but the neighbourhood of the ships had 
rendered them too wild to be approached. A dog of mine, of the breed 
called by game-keepers buck-dogs, that had for one or two years past been ac- 
customed to run down deer in England, had now two fair chases, but without 
the smallest chance of coming up even with three young fawns. The dog 
returned with his feet much cut by the rocks, and so completely exhausted 
that he could scarcely move a limb for a day or two afterwards, 

The little anchorage we were now about to leave, and which was named 
by Captain Lyon, Duckert’s Cove, lies in lat. 66° 12 36"; and in longitude, 
by our chronometers, 86° 44'01".9. The dip of the magnetic needle was here 
87° 31' 06" and the variation 52° 19’ 48” westerly. We found the holding 
ground so tough that we could with difficulty purchase the anchors ; the shel- 
ter from wind and sea is perfect in every direction, and there being scarcely 
any stream of tide, no ice enters but what is drifted in with a south-easterly 
wind, which coming with little force is not likely to do a ship any injury. 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE, 73 


At fifteen minutes past three P.M. a light air of wind springing up from 
the eastward we weighed, and having warped out by. kedges till we had 
cleared the shoal point of the cove, made sail for the channel and, with the 
assistance of the boats, got the Fury into the fair set of the tide, before it 
made very strong to the eastward, At a quarter before seven, when in the 
narrowest part, which is abreast of a bold headland on the south shore, 
named, by desire of Mr. Bushnan, Care Suacktetron, and where the tide 
was now driving the ice along at the rate of five or six knots, the wind came 
in asudden gust from the south-west, scarcely allowing us to reduce and 
trim our sails in time to keep the ship off the north shore, which is not so 
safe as the other. It was now that the advantage appeared of having tho- 
roughly sounded the channel previously to attempting the passage of it ; for 
had the ships taken the ground with so rapid and considerable a fall of tide, 
and with so much heavy ice hurried along by it, I do not know what -hu- 
man effort could have saved them from almost immediate wreck. By carry- 
ing a heavy press of canvass, however, we succeeded in forcing through the 
ice, but the Fury was twice turned completely round by eddies and her sails 
brought aback against the helm ; in consequence of which she gathered such 
fresh sternway against several heavy floe-pieces, that I apprehended some 
serious injury to the stern-post and rudder, if not to the whole frame of the 
ship. The Hecla got through the narrows soon after us, but Captain Lyon, 
wishing to bring away the flags and staves set up as marks, had sent his little 
boat away for that purpose, during the continuance of the calm weather. 
When the breeze suddenly came on she was still absent, and being obliged to 
wait for some time to pick her up, the Hecla was about dusk separated 
several miles from us. 

It was my intention, after getting through the narrows, to haul round to 
the northward and éastward, either to find an anchorage or to keep under 
‘way during the night, in the large space to the northward and eastward of 
Rouse Island, which I had before found clear of ice, and free from any 
perceptible stream-of tide. My mortification may therefore be conceived 
at now finding the whole of this space so covered with ice as not to be na- 
vigable, while the only clear water in sight was along the south shore, where 
the whole strength of tide was known to set, and which therefore, unac- 
quainted as we were with the soundings, would be a dangerous station for 
the ships to occupy during the night. There appeared however no alterna- 

L 


1821. 
August. 
wry 


1821. 
August. 
ww 


Frid, 31. 


74 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


tive, and it being now dusk, we had every prospect of passing an anxious 
and unpleasant night. 

On hauling up for the south shore, we perceived from the crow’s nest a 
point of land that seemed to open into a bay ; and as there was a.chance, not- 
withstanding -the general boldness of the coast, of our there finding ground 
for anchorage, we stood in for it under all sail. In. this hope we were not 
disappointed for, on rounding the point, we opened a snug little bay, at the 
head of which we anchored soon after nine P.M., in fourteen fathoms on a 
bottom of tough clay. We here lay at the distance of two cables’ length 
from the land, which is high all round the bay; and, the strong south-west 
wind preventing any ice from coming in, we passed a quiet night and our 
people enjoyed the rest which they much required. Lights were hoisted 
and rockets occasionally sent up as guides to the Hecla; but as we saw no 
answer, and she did not arrive in the bay, we apprehended she had been 
obliged to keep under way during this inclement night. 

At daylight on the 31st we perceived the Hecla under the land to the 
eastward standing towards us. I found from Captain Lyon that he had, 
with the same good fortune which we experienced, found a secure shelter 
during the night, by anchoring close under the land to the eastward, 
in seventeen fathoms muddy bottom. In order to have a more com- 
manding view of the situation of the ice, on which depended our -next 
movements whenever the wind should moderate, I proposed to Captain 
Lyon to land and ascend the hill for that purpose. At thirty mi 
nutes past eight A.M., however, just as we were setting off, the wind 
suddenly fell, and the ice began immediately to approach the shore. We 
therefore weighed just in time to avoid a large floe-piece that drifted into 
the bay ; and, standing over to the main body of ice to the northward, sud- 
denly got soundings it sixteen to twelve fathoms, and then dropped into 
twenty and twenty-five fathoms, no bottom. The Hecla a little to the west- 
ward of us had several casts from seven to five and three quarter fathoms, 
and, from the rippling occasioned bythe tide, it is probable that there is 
shoaler water in this neighbourhood. Our distance from the south shore was 
about two miles and a half, and about four from Georgina Island, on an E.b.S. 
bearing. After standing a quarter of a mile beyond the shoal, the ice obliged 
us to tock; and as there was not at present the smallest prospect «f our 
getting tv the northward, so as to approach Gore Bay, in order to ascertain 


* 


AVI THO 5 


OL arUosyUy 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 75 


its continuity with the shore on which I landed on the 28th, I determined to 
run along the edge of the ice to the eastward, and to look for any opening 
that might there be found practicable, rather than wait inactively in our pre- 
sent situation. Our course was, therefore, directed towards the openings 
before observed to the eastward, where the land appeared to be broken into 
several islands. As we approached these, which I named after Tue Ricur 
HonovraB_e Witt1aM Strurces Bourne, we found that they presented at least 
four openings, all of which appeared navigable but for the ice which now 
choked the three northern ones. The other channel, which is the widest, 
was however quite clear ; we therefore hauled up for it, and discovered soon 
after to the southward an opening into the Frozen Strait, thus determin- 
ing the insularity of a large portion of its north-eastern shore, which I named 
after the Ricur Honourasie Nicvoras VansitTart, Chancellor of the Exche- 
quer. The opening now discovered was between Baffin and Vansittart 
Islands. 

The Hecla, in rounding a point of ice which the tide had set in motion, was 
beset by the loose masses rapidly closing round her, and drifted by the ebb 
along the island lying on the north side of this channel. She remained in 
this situation above two hours ; when, all our boats having been sent to her 
assistance, she was towed out into clear water, and joined us at dusk in 
the evening. The ice having, in the mean time, remained too close to allow 
us to proceed to the northward, no time was lost by this accident, and we 
lay-to in open water during the night in the hope of perceiving some favour- 
able change the following day. The night was nearly calm, notwithstanding 
which the ships appeared to be so little influenced by tide, that they retained 
their station till daylight without any difficulty or disturbance from ice. 

I was sorry to perceive, on the morning of the lst of September, that the 
appearance of the ice was by no means favourable to our object of sailing to 
the northward, along the Sturges Bourne Islands; but at ten A.M., the edge 
being rather more slack, we made all sail with a very light air of southerly 
wind, and the weather clear, warm, and pleasant. We were at noon in lat. 
66° 03' 35”, and in long. 83° 38’ 15”, in which situation a great deal of land 
was in sight to the northward, though apparently much broken in some places, 
From N.E. round to §.S.E., there was still nothing to be seen but one wide 
sea, uninterruptedly covered with ice as far as the eye could reach. A 
prospect like this would naturally convey to the mind of a person little ac- 
quainted with this navigation, an idea of utter hopelessness. So apt. indeed, 
L8 


1821. 
ugust. 
wy 


Sept. 1 
Sat. 1. 


ee 


ome 


a teas 


reat oer 


pane ar gr 


[ —-—* PP 


Day 
1 
2 | of 
. | Strait. 
4 
5 
6 
7 
8 
Off the 
9 North- 
Eastern 
10 Coast of 
South- 
Il ampton 
Island, 
12 | 
13 
14 
15 
16 JA 
17 Tn Duke 
of York 
18 Bay. 
19 
20 r] Frozen 


21 |\§ Strait. 


22 ||\Repulse Bay}} 41 | 28 | 33.76 


23 
24 In the 
Frozen 
25 Strait. 
26 
27 
28 In 
Duckett 
29 ||, Cove. 
80 
Off Van- 
$1 LA Isl, 


ABSTRACT of the METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL kept on board His Majesty’s Ship 


Fury, at Sea, during the Month of August, 1821. 


Temperature of Air, 
n Shade. 


Maxi- | Mini- 
mum, mum. 


Mean Temp. 
of Sea Water. 


Mean. 


—— 


437 [433° [495.17 
390 | 35 | 36.25 
36 | 33 | 34.75 


38 82 |. 34.67 
41 85 | 37.6 
47 34 | 38.25 
42 3 | 38.50 
37 34 | 35.5 
40 35 | 36.50 
48 85 | 38.42 
43 35 | 38.50) 


48 | 28 | 36.60 


Prevailing 
Barometer. Winds. 


Mini- : 
mum. | Mean. Direction. Velucity. 


inches | inches a.m. NWbW 
di mm. SW } modt. 


pach hata light 
a.m. fresh 
29.67 ,29.817)). ‘m. light 
29.91/30.067 i light 
30.09 30.112) light 
29.74/29. modt, 


pin ENE |$ light 

NNW light 

WNW modt, 

WSW modt. 

WNW fresh 

29.888 eae latid 2 light 


a.m. NE A 
pan. Southly g hight 


F am. WhS 
29.60/20. 815] ON thly } fresh 


4] 29.48/29 .502 SW mod, 


a.m. NNW §/ a.m. light 
20.35 29.484] om, SWbW Up.m. fresh 


modt. 

modt, 

light 

modt. 

p.m. Southly : light 
NE light 
WNW light 
WbN modt, 
WNW light 
WNW light 
4 light 
SSW fresh 


am, 
20,75} 29.70/20.722) p.m. West light 


Prevailing « 
Weather. 


fine 


fine and clear 


cloudy and rain 
clear 


fine and ciear 


hazy and rain, some 
thunder and lightning 


thick fog and rain 
cloudy 
fine 
cloudy 
fine 
fine 
fine 
fine‘and clear 
fine 
cloudy 
foggy 


hazy and snow 
thick haze and snow 
hazy and snow 
cloudy 


SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY. 77 


are we to be influenced by present impressions rather than by those how- 
ever strong or often repeated, that past events have left upon the mind, that 
I believe even those who have been the longest habituated to the surprising 
changes, which an hour or two will frequently bring about in these seas, can- 
not altogether divest themselves of similar sensations. 

At twenty minutes after noon, having advanced only a mile or two through 
very Close “ sailing ice,” the Fury was beset in trying to force through a 
narrow though heavy stream, round the end of which the Hecla more pru- 
dently sailed. Having hove to on the opposite side of it, Captain Lyon im- 
mediately sent his boats with lines to endeavour to tow us out by making 
sail on the Hecla, a method which cannot be too strongly recommended, and 
which serves as an example of the mutual assistance that may be rendered 
by two ships employed on this service. The line proved rather too weak for 
the weight of the masses of ice, but the impulse communicated by it before it 
broke, aided by our own exertions, enabled us shortly after to escape, and we 
again made sail to the northward. At forty-five minutes p.3t one P.M., we had 
come to the end of the clear water, and prepared to shorten sail, to await some 
alteration in our favour. Atthis time the weather was so warm, that we had just 
exposed a thermometer to the sun, to ascertain the temperature of its rays, 
which could not have been less than 70° or 80°, when a thick fog, which had 
for some hours been curling over the hills of Vansittart Island, suddenly 
came on, creating so immediate and extreme a change that I never remem- 
ber to have experienced a more chilling sensation. As we could no longer 
see a hundred yards around us in any direction, nothing was to be done but 
to make the ships fast to the largest piece of ice we could find, which we 
accordingly did at two P.M., in one hundred and fifty-eight fathoms, at the 
distance of three or four miles to the eastward of Sturges Bourne Islands. 
Just before dark the fog cleared away for a few minutes, when, perceiving 
that the wind which was now increasing was likely to drift us too near the 
islands, we took advantage of the clear interval to run a mile further from 
the land for the night, where we again made fast to a large floe-piece in two 
hundred fathoms. The ice in this neighbourhood was the heaviest, though 
not in the largest floes, of any we had yet seen on this voyage. It was for 
the most part covered with hummocks, and appeared yellow from the quan- 
tity of sand that lay upon it, and from which it generally receives the name 
of.“ dirty.ice.” After dark the fog was succeeded by heavy rain for several 
hours. . 


18 22. 
Sept. 
rom) 
Sat. 1. 


78 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


The wind drawing round to the northward and westward on the morning of 


wevrw the 2d, increased toa fresh gale, which continued to blow during the night ; 


* notwithstanding which, I was in hopes that the immense size of the floe to which 
the ships were attached would have enabled us to retain our station tolerably. 
It was mortifying therefore to find, on the morning of the 3d, that we had drifted 
more than I ever remember to have done before, in the same time, under any 
circumstances. It was remarkable also that we had not been set exactly to 
leeward, but past Baffin Island towards the two remarkable hills on Southamp- 
ton Island, from which we were at noon not more than seven or eight leagues 
distant. Thus, after a laborious investigation which occupied one month, 
we had, by a concurrence of unavoidable circumstances, returned to nearly the 
same spot as that on which we had been on the 6th of August. To consider 
what might have been effected in this interval, which included the very best 
part of the navigable season, had we been previously aware of the position and 
extent of the American continent about this meridian, is in itself certainly un- 
availing ; but it may serve to shew the value of even the smallest geographical 
information in seas where not an hour must be thrown away, or unprofitably 
employed. Nor could we help fancying at this period of the voyage that, had. 
Bylot, Fox, and Middleton, by their joint exertions, succeeded in satisfactorily 
determining thus far the extent of the continental land, the time which we 
had lately occupied in this manner might have been more advantageously 
employed in rounding, by a more direct route, the north-eastern point of 
America, and even in pursuing our way along its northern shores. 

In the afternoon an attempt was made to move, for the mere sake, it must be 
confessed, of moving and keeping the people on the alert, rather than with the 
slightest prospect of gaining any ground ; but by the time that we had laid out 
the hawsers, the small hole of water that had appeared again closed and we 
were obliged to remain as before. 

On the morning of the 4th the ice remained close about us; but we found 
at daylight that we had still approached Southampton Island, and were now 
within five or six miles of a very small rocky islet, not distinctly seen for ice 
when we first made this coast, but which now appeared black, though very low. 
This rock, which I named after Mr. Fire, who first discovered it on our former 
arrival on this coast, lies N.E.b.E. from the two high hills of Southampton 
Island ; its distance from the land is between five and six leagues, and being 
quite by itself it might, if covered with snow, be easily mistaken for heavy ice- 
At thirty minutes past eight A.M. the ice slackened for about a mile te the 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 79 


N.N.W., when we cast off with a light air of westerly wind, and got all the boats 1821. 
ahead, but having gained that distance were again obliged to make fast. In is 
the afternoon the breeze freshened from the southward, with rain, and the ice 
soon after slackening a little about us we once more made sail, in the hope only 
of being drifted a short distance among the ice, but without the least apparent 
chance of forcing even a hundred yards through it in the regular way. It is, 
however, impossible to judge when circumstances are about to improve among 
the ice, which now opened so much immediately after we moved, that we 
advanced eight or nine miles almost without difficulty ; and could still have 
continued to run had not night come on, when, being within a few miles of 
the small islands to the southward and eastward of Baffin Island, we shortened 
sail and made the ships fast to a floe-piece, with the intention of pushing in-shore 
at break of day. It was now my wish to sail through the opening last disco- 
vered between Baffin and Vansittart Islands, in order to save as much time as 
possible in recommencing the examination of the continental coast at the 
point to which it had already been traced. Our soundings varied during the 
night from one hundred and three to sixty-one fathoms. 

At four A.M. on the 5th we cast off and made sail for the land, with a fresh Wed. 5. 
breeze from the south-east. The ice was closely packed against the land near 
the passage I had intended to try and, as it appeared slack more to the east- 
ward, I determined to run between the south-east point of Baffin Island and 
the smaller islands lying off it. The wind drawing more to the eastward as 
we approached the channel, we had several tacks to make in getting through, 
but carried a good depth of water on each side though its breadth does not 
exceed three quarters of a mile. As we now advanced to the northward, we 
found less and less obstruction, the main body of the ice having been carried 
to the southward and eastward by the late gale which had in so extraordinary 
a manner drifted us in the same direction. This was one of the opportunities 
I have before described as the most favourable that ever occur for making 
progress in these seas. We had therefore a fine run during the day along the 
eastside of Sturges Bourne Islands; for, having found the passages between 
them still choked with ice, we were obliged to run to the northward with the 
hope of attaining our present object. A large opening in the land now came in 
sight in the N.N.W., being that discovered by Mr. Ross on the 28th of August, 
and which had led us to suppose th¢ land we then stood on would prove in- 
sular, and that some communication would be found to the northward of it with 
Gore Bay. For this opening therefore our course was directed, and in the 


eke: . 
See = 


ae Wis 


eo 


Preion 
Saal 


= ES “ eee ae 
~ : 
te se I ae WS 


SR ae er Re a er 


80 | SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


et evening we arrived off a point of the eastern land, which I named Cape 

whe Epwarps, after Mr. John Edwards, Surgeon of the Fury. We had here 
twelve fathoms at the distance of a mile from the shore, and found the water 
deepen gradually as we hauled out. A small stream of ice lay off the point, 
besides which there was not a piece in sight, and we ran along the shore 
without obstruction till it was time to look out for an anchorage. Having first 
sent the boats to sound, we hauled into a small bay where we anchored at 
dusk, in seventeen fathoms, good holding-ground, though the bottom was so 
irregular that we had from five to thirteen close upon our quarter, The wind 
freshened up strong from the eastward and continued to blow during the night, 
but we lay quite sheltered and secure. A great number of stones set up by 
the Esquimaux were here observed, placed as usual on every spot most con- 
spicuous from the sea. 

Thurs. 6. We began to weigh at break of day on the 6th, but found the ground so 
tough that we had some difficulty in purchasing the anchors. In effecting 
this, James Richardson one of the leading-men of the Fury received a severe 
contusion on his shoulder by the purchase-block falling upon him from aloft *. 
After running four or five leagues to the northward and westward, we came 
at thirty minutes after nine A.M. toa small group of islands lying in the 
channel, and directed our course to the eastward of them. The wind how- 
ever failing us just in the middle, we hauled out and sent the boats to tow; 
but whichever way we put the ships’ heads, a‘ cats-paw” every now and then 
took the sails aback, keeping us for an hour in a very awkward situation, being 
only two hundred yards from either shore, and in seventy fathoms’ water, 
The boats being sent to sound, several shoals were discovered just beyond us 
to the northward, but nothing like anchorage near them. As the situation of 
the ships was now a very precarious one, should any stream of tide begin to 
run, I determined tu tow them into two small nooks near us, where they might 
at least be out of the way of the tide. Finding here a depth of from seven- 
teen to nineteen fathoms at half a cable’s length from the shore, the anchors 
were dropped, and several hawsers immediately secured to the rocks, to steady 
the ships. The men from this circumstance, and with their usual humour, 
called this place Five-hawser Bay, by which name I have distinguished it on 
the chart. We found that the two little nooks communicated by a narrow and 


* This accident which produced no eventual injury, occurred in consequence of an iron 
hook giving way. It i» only mentioned in this place, to shew the propriety of substituting 
lashings for the hooks of blocks, wherever practicable, in this climate. 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 81 


shallow channel, making the land which intervened between the ships an island 
about a quarter of a mile in length. 

We had now once more approached a part of the coast of which the thorough 
and satisfactory examination could not possibly be carried on in the ships, 
without incurring constant and perhaps useless risk, and a certain and serious 
-loss of time. I determined therefore to proceed at once upon this service in 
two boats, one from each ship. Having communicated my intentions to 
Captain Lyon, and requested him to move the ships when practicable into 
some more secure situation, I left the Fury, accompanied by Mr. Ross and 
Mr. Sherer, taking with us our tents, blankets, and stove, together with four 
days’ provisions and fuel. 


nos 


~, _—— . eR ee si er NR ae 
ee See E EG LDS MIT BE LTP NN Se OE Gee OE sie . 


= 
pele 


eee 


SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


CHAPTER IV. 


HOPPNER’S INLET ENTERED AND SURVEYED BY THE RBOATS——CONTINUITY OF LAND 
THERE DETERMINED—PROCEED TO EXAMINE ANOTHER OPENING LEADING TO THE 
WESTWARD-——FAVOURABLE APPEARANCE OF A CONTINUED PASSAGE IN THAT DI- 
RECTION—-MEET WITH SOME ESQUIMAUX——ARRIVAL IN ROSS BAY, BEING THE 
TERMINATION OF LYON INLET——DISCOVERY AND EXAMINATION OF VARIOUS CREEKS ree 
RETURN TO THE SHIPS, AFTER FINDING THE LAND ENTIRELY CONTINUOUS—SOME cs 
ACCOUNT OF THE NATURAL HISTORY OF THIS PART OF THE COAST. 


1821. A Tuick fog unfortunately coming on just before we left the ships, prevented 


hes de us from making choice of any part of the land, which might be the most a 

likely to afford a passage to the northward and westward. We could only oa 

therefore direct our course northerly with tolerable certainty, by a compass- a 
i) bearing previously taken on board, and by occasionally obtaining an indis- al 


tinct glimpse of the land through the fog. Having rowed four miles we came 
toa high point, round which we turned rather to the westward, and then 
landed a little beyond it. The fog becoming somewhat less thick, Mr. Sherer 
and myself ascended the hill in hopes of obtaining a view of the surrounding 
shores, in order to form a better judgment of the route we should pursue on 
the following morning. Though the weather still continued very unfavourable 
for this purpose, we could at times see far enough around us to determine me 
to follow up the small inlet, which, as we now found, we had lately entered 
in the boat. It was here one mile across, and seemed to lead first to the 4 
N.N.W., and afterwards more to the westward. Contracted as our view was, | 
in consequence of the fog, it was still sufficiently extensive te embrace a i 
number of detached sheets of water which, being magnified by the fog, 

served to perplex us not a little in conjecturing whether they might be lakes i. 
or arms of the sea. Most of them afterwards proved to be the former, and is 
some of them were of considerable size. Having taken all the compass- 4 
bearings that the weather would permit we descended to the beach, where re 


eas > ania rtetenrer eae 


eae 


li ileal le = 


Se ae 


sahil Raiong viene cee 
= 
{ees i ae 
oS aero cg te 4 


a ee a oe 


= 


: 

a 8 
es 
i 
Pah: 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 83 


we found that Mr. Ross had hauled the boats up and pitched the tents for 1821. 
the night. Anumber of deer were seen but they were very wild; a hare ww 


or two however and some ptarmigan were procured for our suppers. It was 
high water by the shore at thirty minutes past six P.M., but no stream of 
tide was perceptible. 


The tents were struck at thirty minutes past three A.M., on the 7th, and Frid. 7. 


our course directed up the inlet, the weather being calm and tolerably clear. 
At three miles and a quarter we passed on our starboard hand a point of 
land which, from the bright colour of the rocks, composed chiefly of feldspar, 
obtained the name of Red Point. 

At a quarter past four, when we knew the flood-tide must be running, the 
current was found to set half a knot to the northward, and at seven it was 
going rather more slowly in the same direction. As far as indications went, 
this seemed but little encouragement; but as our business was to explore and 
not to speculate, we continued our progress. After passing Red Point we 
arrived at a wider part of the inlet, near which is an islet of this remark- 
able form, 


exactly resembling, at a little distance, the roof of a house just shewing itself 
above the water, some iarge stones set upright on the top, (probably by the 
Esquimaux,) appearing like so many chimneys. It consists entirely of small 
stones and sand intermixed, and has more the appearance of having been 
placed there by art than by nature. Just beyond this islet, and after rounding 
a low sandy point on the left, the inlet turns much more to the westward and 
becomes narrower, with frequent shoals occupying in some places the greater 
part of the channel, Mr. Ross and I ascended the neurest hill, and saw the 
inlet still extending to the N.W., though it became narrower than before and 
apparently much more shoal. The rein-deer were here very numerous on the 
higher parts of the land; we saw above forty in a walk of two or three 
miles, and our people met with several more. The vegetation was abundant, 
consisting chiefly of short thick grass, moss, the andromeda tetragona and ledum 
palustre, a sweet smelling plant which here grew very luxuriant!y. Much 
of the ground was wet and swampy, small lakes occurring in almost every 
M2 


Spee: a 


pers 


at Sa Epes — sara oe 


84 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


hollow, and numerous streams of water running from the hills. There was 
no snow upon the land, nor the smallest vestige of ice on any part of the 
sea that we overlooked. The rocks, like all that we had lately met with, 
consisted chicfly of gneiss, traversed by some veins of white quartz and 
red feldspar from three to twelve inches thick. 

The water was falling by the shore during our stay at this place, and at nine 
A.M. we found the stream setting slowly to the southward, confirming our 
former observations as to the direction of the flood-tide, At half-past ten 
we had arrived at the head of the inlet, having rowed thirteen miles from 
the entrance. This arm of the sea is three hundred yards wide at the top, 
having three rivulets running into it over a rough stony beach. The land 
on each side is from six to eight hundred feet high ; and at the distance of a 
mile below the head of the inlet there is, on the castern shore, a remarkable 
perpendicular bluff overlooking the sea, composed of red feldspar overgrown 
in some parts with herbage of various tints, which give to it a striking and 
picturesque appearance. The soundings are here irregular, varying from one 
fathom to twelve, but the eastern side, as the bold character of its shore indi- 
cates, is much the deepest. After rowing down a quarter of a mile, we took 
up a bottle of the sea-water which was fresh enough to drink, being in fact, as 
Mr. Fisher afterwards found by experiment, of nearly the same specific gra- 
vity as spring-water. We saw a great many deer on the hills and some flocks 
of ducks in the water: the latter bcing mostly too young to fly were so 
quick in diving that it was not easy to kill them; but Mr. Ross shot a speci- 
men or two, which proved to be the young and the females of the long- 
tailed duck (anas glacialis.) 

This part of our examination being concluded, we landed (on our return) 
at Red Point, in the hope of obtaining observations for the longitude, but 
the sun remained obscured throughout the day. On this point were the 
remains of several Esquimaux habitations, two of which were larger than 
usual, and differing in form from any we had before noticed. They were 
oval, about fifteen feet in length, and each had three separate bed-places 
parted off with stones, and composed of the andromeda tetragona, There were 
also in each a similar number of fire-places, so that it had apparently been 
occupied by three distinct families. 

Opposite to Red Point was a small opening, which we next proposed 
to examine. We had not, however, advanced a mile within the entrance 
when the boats grounded, the water becoming more and more shoal within. 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 85 


We therefore landed to obtain the best view we could, and observed the 1821. 


water to extend about a mile beyond us, and then to turn to the south- 
ward, in which direction the land obstructed our further view. As it was 
plain that no passage could here be found for the ships, which alone it was 
my present object to discover, I did no’ choose to wait for the flowing of the 
tide to enable us further to explore this place, but determined to prosecute 
our examination of the other parts of the coast without delay. Lieutenant 
Hoppner subsequently determined the insularity of the land on the south side 
of this opening by rowing through the passage at high water. There were 
here a great number of stones placed in an upright position in every conspi- 
cuous spot, many of them looking like men at a distance. These marks are 
generally placed without regard to regularity, but there were here several 
lines of them about fifty yards in length, the stones being four or five yards 
apart, and each having a smaller one placed on its top. Having rowed out of 
the inlet, we landed at six P.M. ina little bay just outside of the last night's 
sleeping-place, pitching the tents on a fine shingly beach, which was the kind 
of ground we usually looked out for towards the conclusion of the day, as 
affording the softest bed, consistently with dryness, that nature supplies in this 
country. Of such a convenience the men were not sorry to avail themselves, 
having rowed above thirty miles since the morning. Some old Esquimaux 
habitations were here completely grown over with long rich grass, a number of 
bones were scattered about near them, and I found a piece of asbestos and part 
of a pot of lapis ollaris. Near one of the circles of stones were also two walls 
for resting a canoe upon. 

The boats were launched at daylight on the 8th, and we soon came to a 
much more promising opening on the same shore, about a mile wide at the 
entrance and leading directly to the westward. After rowing four miles in that 
direction, we arrived at the mouth of a bay from three to five miles wide, out of 
which there did not appear the least chance of discovering an outlet. As 
nothing however but rowing round the bay would satisfactorily determine this, 
we were proceeding to do so, when we observed, in the northern corner, some- 
thing like a low point overlapping the high land at the back. ‘Towards this 
spot we steered, as the readiest way of completing the circuit of the bay, and 
half a mile short of it landed to breakfast. 

In the mean time I sent Mr. Ross to one hill, and ascended another myself, 
expecting to save the time and trouble of rowing into the nook, I was not 
a little astonished to find from my own and Mr. Ross’s observations, that 


a 


fared 
So eS 
=i 


Legion! Sema 
ee 


Maeliitere Shglhindeerablinis 


86 


SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


there was on the other side of the point a broad and apparently navigable 
channel, through which the tide was setting to the northward, at the rate of 
three or four miles an hour. I am thus minute in the discovery of this chan- 

nel, which afterwards promised to be of no small importance, to shew how 

nearly such a place may be approached without the slightest suspicion being 

entertained of its existence, and the consequent necessity of close examina- 

tion, wherever a passage is to be sought for. An inspection of the chart, 

together with the narrative of our proceedings for the four or five following 
days, will afford a striking and perhaps a useful lesson in this respect. 

On proceeding in the boats, we found a part of the channel occupied by a 
small rocky islet nearest to the eastern shore, having a bed of sunken rocks 
about it, over which the tide was setting with great rapidity and with a loud 
noise like that of a mill-stream. The passage to the westward of the islet 
is half a mile wide, and we could find no bottom in it with twelve fathoms of 
line; on the other side the water is very shoal, scarcely affording a passage 
for boats at low tide. Beyond this channel, which we distinguished by the 
name of the Rapids, the inlet again widens out considerably, turning to the 
westward and afterwards to the northward, a circumstance which could not 
fail to excite in us the most lively hopes and expectations. At noon we 
had reached a place where it branched off in so many different directions, 
that our present stock of provisions appeared insufficient to enable us to 
accomplish its complete examination. I therefore determined to send Mr. 
Sherer back to the ships for a fresh supply, as soon as the tide should turn 
in his favour. That we might lose none of the favourable tide now running, 
we dined in the boats, and being in the mean time carried onward a considerable 
distance, at half-past one we landed on an island, in order to make the neces- 
sary arrangements for despatching Mr. Sherer, as well as to obtain a view of 
the surrounding lands. The latter object was, however, defeated by hard rain, 
which came on soon after, rendering the atmosphere extremely thick. The 
next island to the northward was chosen as our rendezvous, and a particular 
point of it agreed on as the spot at which, in passing, we should leave in- 
structions for Mr. Sherer’s guidance in following us. He left us at half-past 
two and the tide being strong in his favour, he succeeded in reaching the 
Hecla the same night. 

In the mean time, we made sail for Rendezvous Island with a strong breeze 
from the eastward, accompanied by torrents of rain ; and having fetched a little 
bay on its south-west side, pitched our tents on the beach, on which were 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 87 


several Esquimaux circles of stones. On ascending the higher part of the 
island the land about us appeared to consist of islands in almost every di- 
rection. The main branch of the inlet ran nearly due north, and afterwards 
seemed to turn westward, which was enough to determine our course on the 
following morning. We saw here several hares, ptarmigans and ducks, and — 
one or two ravens. The island is composed of gneiss rock traversed in 
several places by rich veins of pale rose quartz, of which substance large 
lumps were here and there lying on the surface. I also noticed many round- 
ish masses of quartz in a granular and decomposed state, easily falling to 
pieces on being handled. 

The tents were struck at daylight on the 9th; and after leaving a note 
under a pile of stones at the appointed place, to apprize Mr. Sherer in what 
direction we should be found, we rowed to the northward. The wind having 
however got round to that quarter in the course of the night, and continuing 
to blow fresh, we did not reach the first point of land till nine A.M., by which 
time the people’s clothes were so thoroughly drenched by the sea that I de- 
termined to remain here till noon to dry them, and to obtain the requisite 
observations. The comfort of a dry atmosphere, bright sunshine, and a warm 
breakfast, under these circumstances and in this climate, can perhaps scarcely 
be imagined by those who have not experienced it. 

The latitude of this point, which stands on a small island, is 66° 57’ 04”, and 
its longitude, by chronometers, 84° 52°17". The tide was ebbing by the shore 
from nine A.M. till noon, when we left the point, and on trying the current 
soon after it was found to be setting E.S.E. half a mile an hour. Our progress 
now became more and more interesting as we advanced to the north-westward, 
there being every appearance of broken land in that direction. The inlet was 
here from two to four miles in breadth, and in most parts sufficiently deep for 
the passage of ships ; so that notwithstanding the direction of the flood-tide 
which evidently came from the southward, we could not but entertain very 
sanguine hopes of here finding a continued passage to the westward. This 
hope received additional encouragement by our perceiving something white 
upon the water ahead, which we at first took to be a piece of ice. It is not 
€asy to imagine the eager impatience with which we rowed towards this sup- 
posed indication of our approach to the sea on this side, nor our disappoint- 
ment on coming up to it in finding it only a rock of a yellowish-white colour, 
just peeping above the water’s cdge. 

Proceeding along the south-western shore, we left in several places fresh 


SEE ES SS Be 


cet 


nSiais beside, ncdhiedRaata mane ania ne a nce ae as Bn Lato se 
<a ey ert arn ene es oe - 
- - pie eet penne ™ ¥ ape oe ~p ae 


ae ona a oe — ~ ol en * “ = = ion wp cae Si 
SSSR ee a re ae eee — gl news Sapna . 


1821. 
Sept. 
WV 


Mon. 10. 


88 ‘ SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


directions for Mr. Sherer, and at three P.M. being doubtful of the best route 
to pursue, landed to obtain a beiter view. There was here an inlet neara 
mile wide within, but having an entrance not more than forty yards across 
and very shoal, out of which the water was rushing with great rapidity. Ima- 
gining this to be a river, Mr. Ross and myself hastened to the bank to taste 
the water, which proved so intolerably salt as to set aside any further conjec- 
tures of this nature. We found here as usual many deserted habitations of 
Esquimaux, and numberless upright stones, especially on the banks of the 
stream just mentioned. 

On the northern shore, directly opposite to us, was some of the highest 
land we had yet seen next the sea hereabouts; and as our present sta- 
tion did not afford a satisfactory view we rowed over to the other side, 
for the purpose of ascending the hills, by which means much time and 
labour may often be saved in exploring places of this nature. This plan now 
also seemed the more eligible as, in case of the inlet still extending to the 
westward, it would be necessary to wait somewhere for Mr. Sherer to over- 
take us, so that both these objects might thus be advantagéously combined. 
The night was cold, but beautifully clea: and serene, and while the last 
rays of the sun still tinged the western horizon, the moon appearing upon 
the cloudless sky exactly opposite the door of our tent, with her beams 
reflected from the unruffled surface of the water, created one of those tranquil 
scenes where all nature seems hushed into repose, and of which, without 
knowing precisely why, the mind very long retains the remembrance. 

Early on the morning of the 10th I ascended the hill, accompanied by two 
of the men, leaving Mr. Ross at the tents to obtain the usual observations. 
From the top of this hill, which is not less than seven hundred feet above the 
level of the sea, I had an extensive and commanding view of the lands around 
us, and found that we might still proceed to the westward, in which direction 
there seemed more than one opening between islands. The water that ap- 
peared at the back of the isthmus on which the tents stood proved to bea 
shoal and narrow branch of the sea, of which we could now trace the extent, 
Having obtained angles for every object in sight I returned to the tents about 
noon, and was soon gratified by the arrival of Mr. Sherer, accompanied 
by Mr. Bushnan, whose knowledge of Gore Bay was likely to prove of 
service, should this inlet, as now seemed not unlikely, be found to communi- 
cate with the land in that neighbourhood. The latitude of the tents was 
66° 59’ 06", and the longitude, by chronometers, 84° 59' 35", It was low water 


ae 
ee 
e 
Fe 

KA 

ane — 
= 
ee 
3 
ae. 
Bs 

a 
Fa 

7 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 89 


by the shore at eight P.M. on the 9th, and at twenty minutes past eight A.M. 
on the 10th, the rise and fall being only six or seven feet. Wesaw a number 
of deer, and killed a few ptarmigan during our stay at this place ; the former 
were in general very wild, being probably at this season a good deal hunted 
by the Esquimaux. The surface of the land presented one uniform mass of 
grey gneiss, except in the valleys and smaller hollows, where the vegetation, 
as well as moisture, was abundant. | 

The boats being re-loaded immediately after Mr. Sherer’s arrival we pro- 
ceeded to the westward. Having passed several islands on our left we kept 
close along the northern shore, which here began to trend considerably to the 
southward of west. In running along the coast with a fresh and favourable 
breeze, we observed three persons standing on a hill and, as we continued 
our course, they followed us at full speed along the rocks. Having sailed 
into asmall sheltered bay I went up, accompanied by Mr. Bushnan, to meet 
them on the hills above us. In sailing along the shore we had heard them 
call out loudly to us, and observed them frequently lift something which they 
held in their hands ; but on coming up to them they remained so perfectly 
mute and motionless that, accustomed as we had been to the noisy importuni- 
ties of their more sophisticated brethren, we could scarcely believe them to 
be Esquimaux. There was besides a degree of lankness in the faces of the 
two men, the very reverse of the plump round oily cheeks of those we had 
before seen. Their countenances at the time impressed me with the idea of 
Indian rather than of Esquimaux features; but this variety of physiognomy we 
afterwards found not to be uncommon among these people. The men 
appeared about forty and twenty-two years of age, and were accompanied by 
a good-looking and good-humoured boy of nine or ten. They each held in 
their hand a seal-skin case or quiver, containing a bow and three or four arrows, 
with a set of which they willingly parted, on being presented with a knife in 
exchange. The first looks with which they received us betrayed a mixture of 
stupidity and apprehension, but both wore off in a few minutes, on our making 
them understand that we wished to go to their habitations. With this request 
they complied without hesitation, tripping along before us for above two miles 
over very rough ground, and crossing one or two considerable streams running 
from a lake into the sea. This they performed with so much quickness that 
we could with difficulty keep up with them, though they good-naturedly 
stopped now and then till we overtook them. We were met on our way by 
two women, from twenty to twenty-five years of age, having each a child at 

N 


mA \ 
j | Thh 
i 
1 ee 
Hh) 
i { f, 
1b f 
i 
i ae ate 
ae aad 
Hit id F 
Tce 


fi i 
th 


ia 


LS Sele 


Sas 


~oy 
ate 


meen ae 


Senne jm 2 
tm ee cae 


ete Ae ble Rpere toed 


1821. 


90 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


her back ; they too accompanied us to their tent, which was situated on a 
high part of the coast overlooking the sea. It consisted of a rude circular 
wall of loose stones, from six to eight feet in diameter and three in height, in 
the centre of which stood an upright pole made of several pieces of fir-wood 
lashed together by thongs, and serving as a support to the deer-skins : that 
formed the top covering. Soon after our arrival we were joined by a good- 
Jooking modest girl of about eight, anc a hoy five years old. Of these nine 
persons, which were all we now saw, only the elder man and two of the 
children belonged to this tent, the habitations of the others being a little 
more inland. The faces of the women were round, plump, tattoed, and in 
short completely Esquimaux. During the cursory examination of these people’s 
dresses which we had now an opportunity of making, I observed nothing 
beyond the peculiarities which have been repeatedly described, except that 
the tails of the women’s jackets were of unusual length as well as breadth. 
The kayak or canoe belonging to this establishment was carefully laid on 
the rocks close to the sea-side, with the paddle and the man’s mittens in 
readiness beside it. The timbers were entirely of wood, and covered as 
usual with seal-skin. Its length was nineteen feet seven inches, and its 
extreme breadti: two feet; it was raised a little at each end, and the rim or 
gunwale of the circular hole in the middle was high, and made of whale- 
bone. A handsome seal-skin was smoothly laid within as a seat, and the 
whole was sewn and put together with great neatness. The paddle was 
double, made of fir, and the ends of the blades tipped with bone, to pre- 
vent splitting. 

The fire-place in the tent consisted of three rough stones carelessly placed 
on end against one side, and they had several pots of apis ollaris, for culi- 
nary purposes. These people seemed to us altogether more cleanly than 
any Esquimaux we had before seen, both in their persons and in the interior 
of their tent, in neither of which could we discover much of that rancid and 
pungent smell, which is in general so offensive to Europeans. One instance 
of their cleanliness which now occurred, deserves perhaps to be noticed, 
both because this is justly considered rather a rare quality among Esquimaux, 
as well as to shew in what way they do sometimes exercise it. When leaving 
the tent, to return to our boats, I desired one of the seamen to tie the articles 
we had purchased into a single bundle, for the convenience of carrying 
them ; but the elder of the two male Esquimaux, who watched the man thus 
employed, would not permit it to be done without excluding a pot, which, as 


: 
: 
€ 


aaa 


ES aee t 


t 


pet: hi 
Si site 


= 

ie 

. 

a 

oy 
iy 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 91 


he explained by wiping the lamp-black off with one of his fingers, would soil 
a clean seal-skin jacket that formed part of the bundle. 

Among the few domestic utensils we saw in the tent was the woman’s 
knife of the Greenlanders described by Crantz, and resembling, in its semi- 
circular shape, that used by shoe-makers in England. The most interesting 
article, however, was a kind of bowl exactly similar to that obtained by 
Captain Lyon from the natives of Hudson’s Strait, being hollowed out of the 
root of the musk-ox’s horn. As soon as I took the cup in my hand, the 
boy who was our first companion, and had since been our constant attendant, 
pronounced the word oomingmu/, thus affording an additional confirmation to 
that obtained on the former voyage, of the musk-ox being the animal de- 
scribed by the natives of the west coast of Greenland, as having occasionally, 
though rarely, been seen in that country. 

As soon as the Esquimaux became a little more familiar with us, they re- 
peatedly asked for sowik (iron), in answer to which we gave them to under- 
stand that they must accompany us to our boats, if they wished to obtain any 
of this precious article. Accordingly, the whole group set off with us on our 
return, the males keeping up with us, and the women a short distance behind. 
The whole of the children carried bundles of the branches of ground willow, 
which we had just before seen them bring in for their own use, and which 
they seemed to consider an article of barter that might be acceptable to us. 
As we returned, I noticed a quantity of the Jedum palustre, and having 
plucked some of it, gave it to the boy to carry; after which, though he very 
much disliked its smell, he gathered every root of it that we came to, and 
deposited it at our tents. This lad was uncommonly quick and clever in 
comprehending our meaning, and seemed to possess a degree of good- 
humour and docility, which, on our short acquaintance, made him a great 
favourite among us. 

We had hitherto been much pleased with our new acquaintance, who were 
certainly a good-humoured decent sort of people. We therefore loaded them 
with presents, and endeavoured to amuse them by shewing them the manner 
of rowing our boats, which were hauled up on the beach. While the men 
and children were occupied in observing this, the women were no less busily 
employed, near the tents, in pilfering and conveying into their boots, some 
of our cups, spoons, and other small articles, such as they could conveniently 
secrete. This they accomplished with so much dexterity, that no suspicion 
would have been excited of their dishonesty, had not Mr. Sherer fortunately 
N 2 


ee ne ne 


92 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


1821. missed a cup which was required for supper. A general search being insti- 

ww tuted in consequence, and the cargo of the women’s boots brought back to 

our tents, I directed all our presents to be likewise taken from the two 

offenders; and, dismissing the whole party with great appearance of indig- 

nation, thus put an end for the present to our communication with these 
people. 

Tues 11. We moved before broad daylight on the 11th, and, after two hours’ pro- 

gress, began to perceive every appearance of our having once more got into 

a close bay, round the shores of which we now proceeded to row. A deer was 


yo < ae 
er on a Sr arm anlage 


ae? LE ee 


Ge lee tee 


ii here chased into the water, but being on the side of the island opposite to 
' our boats, escaped our pursuit. These animals seem to consider the sea as 
i a great security to them, and they swim fast and to a considerable distance. 
if i The nearest island, for which the deer struck out this morning, with a strong 
i breeze and a breaking sea not altogether in his favour, was above two miles 
; i distant. 
| We landed just before noon, in the hope of obtaining the meridian altitude, 
i but the sun being obscured we continued our circuit of the bay, and at two 


P.M. put on shore near the mouth of a small creek. The wind had now 
increased to a stiff gale from the eastward, which being right down the creek, 
we were above two hours in reaching the head of it, though it is not more than 
three miles in length. Its breadth varies from one and a half to half a mile, 
and the shores on both sides are high. One mile from the entrance is an 
island nearest to the south shore, from which a herd of seven fine deer swam 
to the main land on our approach, and in consequence of the wind and sea 
obstructing us landed, before we could get up with them. We now com- 
menced our return along the starboard shore, having no longer any hope of 
finding an outlet to the westward in this direction. To the bay that thus 
terminated the inlet, which had till now excited such encouraging hopes, 
I gave the name of Ross Bay, in compliment to the gentleman who had 
accompanied me during the whole of this examination. We landed at 
sunset at the mouth of another creek, which was reserved for examination 
on the following morning; and were not sorry to pitch our tents on a fine 


several deer, but nothing except a marmot and a covy of nine ptarmigan were 
killed in the course of the day. 

Wed.12. After an hour’s rowing on the morning of the 12th, we found the creek 
terminate at the distance of two miles and a half in a south-east direction 


shingly beach, after a cold and wet day’s work. We here saw as usual 


les 


de, 


han 
ile, 


fam 
sea 
pm- 


bes,’ 


ion 


sual 


ere 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 93 


from its entrance, being from a mile to a mile and a quarter in breadth, with 
good depth of water, and having several small islands near its mouth. Pro- 
ceeding without delay on our return, we landed at nine o’clock at the sup- 
posed river discovered on the 9th, where it was low water by the shore at thirty 
minutes past nine A.M. The wind was moderate from the castward, with 
small drizzling rain. At two P.M. we once more landed on Rendezvous Island, 
as well for the purpose of picking up some provisions which I had directed 
Mr. Sherer to leave here in case of accidents, as to ascertain from the hill what 
parts of the inlet in this neighbourhood yet remained to be examined. The 
weather being now more clear than when we had last reached this central point 
of the inlet, we found that an opening to the eastward and two to the westward 
still presented themselves. I, therefore, chose the most northerly of the latter 
for our next examination, and that this might be pursued with confidence to 
the requisite extent, I. once more despatched Mr. Sherer back for a fresh 
supply of provisions, and having, from the hill, fixed on a remarkable islet 
for his first rendezvous, directed him to follow us as before. 

These arrangements being completed and Mr. Sherer despatched, we left 
the island and rowed over to the creek which I named, after that gentleman, 
Suerer’s CREEK. We found this arm of the sea to have more than one en- 
trance, there being some islands on the northern side; but the passage to the 


southward of them is much the broadest. Having reached the first appointed 


rendezvous, we found it to be a small insulated rock of gneiss thickly stud- 
ded-with garnets. We here fixed a pike with the necessary directions to 
Mr. Sherer, and then put on shore for the night in a small snug cove, where 
we found the usual traces of Esquimaux visitors. 

The weather was calm with rain during the night; and a thick fog on the 


1821, 


Sept. 
a 


morning of the 13th, prevented our moving till thirty minutes past six, when Thu. 13. 


we proceeded up the creek, and in less than two hours had reached the head 
of it. Near this spot we raised a conspicuous pile of stones, with a memoran- 
dum deposited under it for Mr. Sherer; and then crossed over to the south 
shore, which it was now our object to trace ‘closely along till we came to the 
second of the westerly openings before noticed. Soon after noon we arrived 
at alow point, off which we perceived a very strong rippling of tide setting 
from the southward between the main land and an island lying off it. As 
we approached this point, where the passage is not more than one-third of a 
mile across, another appeared a little beyond it, round which the tide was 
running with still greater rapidity ; it now became doubtful whether we could 


94 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


1821, proceed much further. After hanging on for ten minutes, the utmost exertion 


of the men at the oars enabled us to pass the first point; but the attempt 
to pass the second must not only have been useless but dangerous, the tide 
running full six knots over some shoal ground, with an overfall like that 
under bridges, making the level of the water about eighteen inches higher on 
one side of the point than on the other, We landed therefore at a smooth 
place under a sheltered part of the rocks, till the tide should enable us to 
proceed ; and we were nota little pleased to find, by walking across the point, 
that the direction of this rapid flood-tide was from the south-west, and to all 
appearance proceeded out of the opening we were next about to explore. 
While employed here in drying our clothes and tents, we fortunately observed 
two boats rowing up the inlet, and were soon joined by Messrs. Henderson 
and Sherer in a boat from each ship, bringing a fresh supply of provisions and 
fuel. I now learned from Captain Lyon that, as the ice had come in near 
the ships, he proposed as soon as practicable to move them higher up, and, if 
possible, nearer the entrance of the inlet in the examination of which we were 
at present engaged. 

As I now entertained the most sanguine hopes of at length finding a pas- 
sage to the westward, without the necessity of going round all the land we 
had seen in an opposite direction, I could not but consider the present 
supply a most opportune one. We therefore loaded the boats as deeply as 
was consistent with safety, concealing the remainder under a heap of stones, 
as a resource on our return; and despatched Mr. Henderson back with one 
of the boats, together with such articles as were no longer likely to prove 
useful to us, 

The latitude of this point is 66° 51’ 06", and its longitude, by chronometers, 
84° 43’ 19", The rocks near the sea presented one continued and bare surface 
of granite and gneiss ; but a little way inland there was no want of vegetation, 
and several hares were kuicd, The tide, for which we impatiently waited, gra- 
dually slackened between three and four P.M., at which time it was high water 
by the shore, and the stream of ebb immediately began running to the south- 
ward. In addition to the sanguine hopes we entertained of now making 
some useful discovery, we were also congratulating ourselves on the at'van- 
tage we should derive from the strong and favourable ebb-tide just about to 
make, and which we trusted would enable us to end all our doubts and ap- 
prehensions before the close of this day. Our dirappointment may therefore 
in some measure be conceived on finding that the rapid flood-tide, on which 


a 
es 
" 
: 
ox. 


OE ration aes em 


Pipe eve om ce 


Lal " peace = | ene 
‘HUET raid hence 7 em 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 95 


ion a our expectations had been built, did not come from this opening as appear. 1821. 
apt - ances had led us to suppose, but from the eastward, passing to the southward wie 
ide 4 ; of the island, and then receiving a check from some shoals and islets, which 
hat 3 caused it to sweep round almost at a right angle, assuming the appearance of 
on 7. a south-western tide by which we had lately been deceived. This was made 
oth i apparent by our now meeting the ebb setting against us at the rate of a mile 
s to H an hour, which unfavourable indication was shortly after confirmed by our 
nt, 4 reaching the head of this little branch of the sea, which is six miles in length 
all e and three-quarters of a mile in its general breadth, and was named by Mr, 
Te. M4 Ross's desire Curcrurr Creek. We landed just before sunset, and knowing 
ved . that we could not repass the point below as long as the ebb was running, I 
on a sent Messrs. Ross and Bushnan to a high hill in the neighbourhood, with the 
and : hope of their obtaining a good view to the south-westward before dark ; but 
ons . it being already dusk before they reached the summit, and the prospect 
, if a being somewhat obstructed by intervening land, no information that then 
ere y seemed of much importance was thus gained. Near the entrance to this 
: creek, on the north shore, is a hill of a remarkable shape, scen at a consider- 
oma ie able distance to the castward. 
we ie We left the beach at five A.M. on the 14th, and arrived at the point at half- Frid, 14. 
nt 4 past six, when we found the stream of ebb setting so strongly against us as to 
as ‘3 render it impracticable to stem it with the oars and sails. Finding therefore 
es, i after breakfast that much time must be lost if we waited for low water, we 
pne i attempted the expedient of ‘ tracking”’ the boats round the point which, after 
ve : one or two narrow escapes on account of the breaking sea occasioned by the 
a tide, was safely effected in half an hour; and at nine o'clock, having re-loaded 
rs, 4 the boats, we once more embarked on the opposite side of the point. 
ace © There now remained to be examined only a small portion of the opposite 
On, / or eastern shore, which from Rendezvous Island had appeared to present an 
ra- 3 opening. . The direction of this coast was indeed diametrically opposite to 
er ¥ . that in which it was our object to find a passage for the ships; but as it was 
th- : impossible to judge what turnings the land might there take, I determined 
ng : to persevere in the plan I had from the first pursued, of leaving no part of the 
n- 4 coast without actual and close examination. Rowing therefore across the 
to iy tide, and passing the point which scemed to form one side of the mouth of 
} ia the opening we were now to examine, the direction of the land led us to 
pre ii the E.S.E. A little before noon, after passing some low sandy islands which 
ch - occupy the greater part of the entrance, we landed to obtain the meridian 


96 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


— 


Te eee 
MSs Cea : 


ES <A AR EI ES 


1821. altitude, which gave the latitude 66° 50’ 40’. While thus employed a fine 

\r~ doe and her fawn took the water near us, and would have been easily over- 
taken had not our people been straggling about with their guns, so that only 
half a boat’s crew could be made up to go in pursuit of them. Judging by fe 
the velocity of the boat through the water, I should think these animals swam 
across the creek at the rate of between two and three miles an hour, the dis- 
tance being one-third of a mile. The doe could evidently have go. e faster 
if alone, but she kept so close to her young one, that our people positively 
declared the latter sometimes rested on her back, or, as they expressed it, was 
“taken in tow by her.” The doe, having landed first, turned round to face 
us, trembling violently, but remaining on the spot till the fawn joined her, 
when they trotted off together and thus escaped. 

The tide was running to the westward during the time that the water was 
falling by the shore this day ; at noon it was flowing and the stream setting 
up in our favour at the rate of half a knot. In less than half an hour: after 
leaving the shore, we saw clearly to the head of this creek, of which the [a 
breadth had now become narrowed to three or four hundred yards. We found, ; 
however, a good depth of water after passing the islands at the entrance, 
on neither side of which did we carry above fifteen feet through the channel. 
I named this place, which was the last we had now to explore, after my friend 
Mr. Georce Norman, jun. of Bath, 

To save time on our return we rowed towards an isthmus on the west shore, 
which we had observed in the morning, and over which we now proposed 
hauling the boats. On reaching the spot, however, we found that even this 
labour might be spared, as the water, being at this time higher, afforded a 
shoal and narrow passage, which must be quite dry at low tide. The stream 
of flood was here setting north-east at the rate of two miles per hour. We 
next rowed into a small bay about a mile deep, and after remaining on shore 
there for three quarters of an hour, till it was high water, set out at twenty. 
minutes past four P.M. on our return to the ships. The stream began to set 
down in an hour after ; and being thus assisted by a rapid and favourable tide, 
we fortunately just | efore dark discovered the Hecla at anchor near the mouth 
of the inlet, and arrived on board at thirty minutes past six P.M. 

I learned from Captain Lyon that the Hecla had just anchored at her pre- 
sent station, the Fury still remaining at the former place, into which the ice 
had lately come so thick as to require the assistance of all hands from both 
ships to warp and tow the Hecla out. Proceeding with a fresh boat's crew 


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SESE SION rrr oan ree 
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i epi ae aa ge eS Wo 2 


aor 


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(SRE ly epi RR me SMR HH HB 25: 


ma RPE at ices 
ini i aaa be ty em sea 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 97 


towards the Fury, which we found close beset by thick and heavy ice, we 
succeeded after much difficulty in hauling the boat through it, and arrived 
on board at 10 P.M. 

The next object to which my attention was directed was the connecting 
of the coast last examined, with that of Gore Bay—an object that might 
perhaps have been effected during my absence; but I did not consider 
it prudent, in the insecure situation in which I had been obliged to leave the 
ships, to take more than one boat’s crew from each, which number out of 
our small complements of working men bore a large proportion to the whole 
strength that might be required on any emergency. The absence of two 
boats from either ship, indeed, scarcely left hands enough to purchase the 
anchor, much less to handle them with the alacrity necessary among ice, and 
ina confined and rocky navigation. It remained therefore to complete this 
examination in the boats, as soon as the Fury could be. extricated from the 
ice by which she was at present beset. 

This ice consisted of heavy and large floe-pieces, which pressed with 
«onsiderable force upon the cable ; but the strain being steady, the ground 

d, and little or no stream of tide running, the anchor did not come 
«Tt may here be of service to remark that, in smooth water and in 
situations where there is no perceptible stream of tide, a ship’s safety is not so 
much endangered by the approach of a large body of loose ice as might be 
supposed, The smaller pieces are pushed astern by poles, the larger masses, 
not coming with any violence, rest across the cable or bows without doing 
any damage, and the space between the ship and the land is generally soon 
filled up with ice, so as to preclude the possibility of her being driven on 
shore, even should the anchor afterwards come home. 


As soon as the tide would serve in the offing, onthe morning of the 15th gat, 15. 


we weighed, and by means of warping and towing, in which we were as- 
sisted by Captain Lyon’s boats, succeeded in joining the Hecla at her an- 
chorage at three P.M. About the same time Lieutenant Hoppner arrived, 
having re-examined that arm of the sea which I had at first explored; being 
the only one near, Captain Lyon had in pursuance of my directions instructed 
him to trace it, not knowing that I had already done so. From Licutenant 
Hoppner’s report and observations however much useful information was de- 
rived in laying down the coast. Among other things the extent and commu- 
nication of the opening I had entered but could not pass on the 7th, had now 
0 


2 ee es ee 


en ee 


ee 


wise eg pena eee “a's 


1821. 


98 SECOND VOYA GE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


been determined by rowing through at high water, and returning to the 
ships by that roure. To this arm of the sea I gave the name of Hoppner’s 
Inet; and the more extensive one which I had lately returned from ex- 
ploring, was distinguished by the name of my brother-officer, Cartan 
Georce Francis Lyon. 

While a boat from each ship was preparing for our next excursion, I com- 
municated to Captain Lyon my wishes respecting the movement of the ships, 
directing him to follow me down the south-western land as soon as it might 
be practicable, that no time might be lost in prosecuting the voyage either in 
the direction I was now about to pursue, should I there discover an outlet to 
the westward, or failing to do so, to the eastward of the land now in sight, 
which in that case would prove to be a part of the continent. With a view 
also to save time on my return, I requested Captain Lyon to endeavour to 
ascertain whether a portion of land to the south-eastward of the inlet, on 
which it was our lot afterwards to winter, was insular or connected with the 
main land. Thesé and other necessary arrangements being shortly made, I 
left the ships at thirty minutes after four, P.M., accompanied by Messrs. 
Ross, Sherer, and Mac Laren, the two latter gentlemen in the Hecla’s boat, 
the whole party being victualled for nine days. 

Previously however tomy commencing the account of our next boat-ex- 
cursion, I gladly avail myself of some extracts from Captain Lyon’s Journal 
during the time of my late absence, to complete the narrative of proceed- 
ings up to this period. 


“* The ships having been principally stationary during the time of Captain 
Parry’s absence, the remarks which I am enabled to offer must be chiefly 
confined to such observations on this part of the coast as I had then an 
opportunity of making. I must first, however, briefly notice the proceedings 
of the ships during that interval. 

“ Previous to Captain Parry’s leaving us, he had expressed to me his 
wish that the ships should, as soon as convenient, be removed to some 
more commodious anchorage than that in which we lay, provided I suc- 
ceeded in finding one on the eastern shores of the inlet. I therefore 
occupied two days in examining the coast to the north-eastward, but did 
not succeed in finding any spot so well sheltered as the one in which we 


SORES ne Ritson RPO CS ne a Re 
é a a 


Rass 


ER apa 


ESM TS 


ae ree 


pre T 


aaa reared 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 99 


were. I therefore decided on not moving the ships unless circumstances 
should render it necessary. 

“ On the Ilth I was convinced that our present situation was by no 
means secure, by observing that the opening between the Fury’s anchorage 
and the high islands off it was quite filled up with a large and heavy floe, 
which had been brought into the inlet by the recent southerly winds. Dur- 
ing the whole day other heavy masses of ice were forced on it from the 
same direction, and the entrance of the inlet appeared to be rapidly filling. 
The tides at this time were at their highest (fourteen feet), and I feared 
they would ultimately cause the disruption of our protecting floe, and thus 
allow the whole body of ice to set on the ships. On the 12th therefore 
I sent to order the Fury to proceed to an open bay about three miles to the 
northward, through a passage amongst some low islets lying off our anchor- 
age, and which had been already sounded by our boats. On learning that 
the Fury was secured, we weighed and stood through the same channel, 
but the tide was then at its lowest ebb, and in the centre we clearly saw the 
bottom at the depth of four fathoms; our lead at one cast fell ona sharp 
pointed rock which had escaped the notice of the sounding boats in eight 
feet water. We fortunately met with no others, and anchored at sunset 
near the Fury. Mr. Sherer having returned from Captain Parry, brought 
me an instruction, that any inlet or opening in the land near us, which 
the fog had obscured at his departure, should be examined before his 
return, if it could be done consistently with the safety of the ships. I now 
therefore despatched Lieutenant Hoppner, with directions to explore the 
only opening of that kind which presented itself. 

** As the ice had accumulated considerably in the centre of the islet, I 
employed myself successfully in seeking an anchorage to the northward, and 
on my return in the evening found the ships so closely beset as to render it 
very difficult to reach them with the boat. On the 14th I determined on 
moving, and with the assistance of the Fury’s people and boats succeeded 
in getting into open water after four hours’ labour, although the distance we 
warped through the ice did not exceed one mile. We then ran to the north- 
ward, and anchored about five miles from the Fury, off a shingle beach near 
the entrance of that branch of the inlet which Captain Parry was employed 
in examining. Owing to the length of time occupied in removing the 
Hecla, we found it was too late to bring the Fury out also, and she there- 
fore remained beset for the night. 


02 


Soe enty 


SET =e NERA te eet. NNN chine ti sylecnte 


100 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


‘In some of the excursions I made to the hills which bound the inlet, 
I found them without exception to be composed of granite and gneiss, 
presenting rugged, irregular outlines, and entirely void of vegetation on 
their tops ; yet even here we found evident proofs of the Esquimaux having. 
made their temporary residcace, as we frequently observed piles of stones 
erected by these extraordinary people, and also the circular little walls. 
which form the lower part of their habitations: In situations nearer the 
sea these indications were so frequent that it became a matter of surprise 
if we did not find some vestiges of their little settlements on the lower: 
points. One in particuler which we discovered at a short distance from our 
first anchorage bore evident marks of its having been very recently occu- 
pied, and many were of opinion that the natives had quitted it on our ap- 
proach. The circles amounted to eleven; on many of their fire-places the 
soot was quite recent, and quantities of bones of scals, foxes, and other ani- 
mals were scattered round ; some had small portions of flesh still adhering to: 
them. We were much astonished on finding at least a dozen pair of mittens 
and socks, some of which were nearly new. A few of the huts had a little 
elevation at either end, and neatly spread with small branches of what 
appeared to me a kind of birch, (although we had seen none growing,) tied 
together in bunches, and from their arrangement to all appearance intended. 
as the base of beds. We also found a curious kind of net, having large open 
meshes of about two inches diameter, and entirely composed of small and 
strong hoops or rings of whalebone, firmly lashed together with thongs of 
the same material. This net would appear to be of the same kind as that 
described by Davis as found by him amongst the natives of Greenland. A 
few broken spear-heads and implements of ivory were also picked up, and 
I am of opinion that the removal of the people must have been very: 
hurried. 

“From the remarkable form of the coast it is not surprising that the 
Esquimaux should make choice of it for their occasional settlements, and 
they have a most important inducement in finding such profusion of their’ 
necessary food, for the seals are here in great numbers and appear ex- 
tremely bold and fearless, which must render them an easy prey to these 
expert fishermen. In 9 short excursion which some of our gentlemen made 
in the small boat, they were so fortunate as to obtain four in a short time ; 
two were very large and fat and the others quite young. 

“ The great quantities of seals which we constantly saw in this place are 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 101 


doubtless attracted by the shrimps, molusce, and other marine productions, 
with which the sea abounds to an extraordinary degree. The gulls (larus 
glaucus and argentatus,) the eider and other ducks, and the divers (colymbus 
troile and septgntrionalis,) which are also numerous, appear to derive a plenti- 
ful subsistence from the same-means which nature has so amply provided. 
To this. may perhaps be attributed the occasional visits we received from 
whales, black and white, of which the latter were in far the greatest num- 
bers, but not so frequently seen near the ships. While at our first anchorage 
a large black whale came and lay so close to our gangway as to be within 
reach of a harpoon, but while the officer of the watch ran ‘own to inform 
me of the circumstance the fish moved from us. 

** Our sportsmen met with very tolerable success in their rambles and 
procured a plentiful supply of hares and ptarmigan, but were not so fortu- 
nate as to kill above two deer. Several ermines and marmots were also 
taken, and three foxes of a bluish colour evidently advancing to their wintery 
hue. In the hills of which I have spoken as consisting of granite and gneiss 
we found numerous lakes, some of which, although of no great extent, must 
from their situation have been of considerable depth. They appeared to 
be the resort of the young of the red-throated diver, some of which birds 
we killed, and it may thence be inferred that they contain sufficient food 
for their subsistence. One of the officers caught a large salmon-trout ina 
piece of water a very considerable height up the hills. In the valleys the 
vegetation, although at this time on the decline, appeared to have been 
very rich, abounding in grasses, and some other plants, but the sorrel had 
all withered. Some gentlemen who visited the isles lying off Five-hawser 
Bay, found that iron-stone bore a considerable share in their formation, and 
some pieces which they brought on board emitted a strong sulphureous 
smell on being heated, and had ina slight degree the power of attracting 
iron. A few small rounded pieces of graphite were also procured from 
the same place ; their appearance was like those ashes which are found 
in a blacksmith’s forge. Along most of the beaches we found that the 
rocks were absolutely studded with garnets of a clear and brilliant colour, 
but in a state of decomposition, which caused them to break casily on 
endeavouring to detach them from the rocks in which they were em- 
bedded. Amongst the shingle we obtained several fine specimens of ma- 
drepore, and also found a few fossil shells, of which some were of a deli- 


102 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


ha cate and well-defined form, enclosed in limestone, generally of the fetid kind. 

In asmall water-course I picked up some curious pieces of steatite, which 
appeared to have come from a neighbouring hill, through the face of which 
to the northward I observed a broad vein of a green sandstone running in 
an oblique direction. I obtained some extremely interesting specimens at 
this part, one of which from a block of granulated quartz contained a quan- 
tity of thin lamine of graphite, of a very pure and brilliant colour, but which 
with the slightest touch left a very dark mark. 

‘** Although the weather had in general been fine during Captain Parry’s 
absence, yet we frequently found that during the night a thin sheet of ice 
was formed in the small bays and other sheltered places.” 


nd. 
ich 
ich 
- in 
3 at 
jan- 


ich 


ry’s 
ice 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 


CHAPTER V. 


FURTHER EXAMINATION IN THE BOATS FOR THE PURPOSE OF CONNECTING THE SHORES 
OF LYON INLET WITH THAT OF GORE BAY—DETAINED BY THE ICE—REACH GORE 
BAY—CONTINUITY OF «HE LAND DETERMINED—FRESH DETENTION BY THE ICE— 
BOATS CARRIED OVER LAND=RETURN TO THE SHIPS—PROGRESS OUT OF THE INLET 
PREVENTED BY THE ICE—THE FURY GROUNDS UPON A ROCK——ANCHOR IN SAFETY 
COVE—HEAVY EASTERLY GALES——-PROCEED OUT OF THE INLET—ARRIVAL IN A BAY 
ON THE SOUTH SIDE OF WINTER ISLAND——SHIPS SECURED IN WINTER-QUARTERS, 


‘ Ar the time of my quitting the ships the ice was in sight from the mast- 1821. 
. head, stretching across the mouth of the inlet, a few miles below our an- Feekoee 
4 chorage, while the sea was only partially covered with loose masses near Tues. 15. 
. | our last station, and higher up was entirely free from it, I was in hopes, 
however, of being able to find our way along-shore in the boats without 
incurring any great loss of time ; and, at all events, there was a satistaction 
in knowing that, should the boats fail in doing so, it would be in vain to 
attempt it in the ships; so that, in every point of view, our present plan was 
the only advantageous one that could be adopted. 

We rowed before sunset between six and seven miles along the high 
south-western land, passing what appeared a small harbour, with an island 
near the middle of the entrance, and landed on a shingly beach near a 
small bay or creek, extending three quarters of a mile to the W.N.W. and 
then terminating in a deep broad valley. There were here three or four 
acres of thick, close, and rather long grass, affording excellent feeding for 
the rein-deer and hares of which several were seen. A great number of 
" white whales were playing about near the beach. We left the shore at 
half-past four A.M. on the 16th, and in an hour’s sailing with a fresh north- Sun. 16. 
west wind came to some loose ice, through which we continued to make 
our way till eleven o’clock, when it became so close that a passage could 


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1821. 
Sept. 
wee 


Mon. 17. 


Tues. 18. 


104 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


no longer be found in any direction. There was also so much young ice in 
every small interval between the loose masses, that the boats were much cut 
about the water-line in endeavouring to force through it. We were now 
abreast of a remarkable bluff, called, after the master of the Fury, ALLIson’s 
Buurr, and forming the northern point of an open bay, in which alone there 
was the smallest pool of clear water to be seen. In order, therefore, to 
avoid the risk of being altogether driven from the shore, I determined to 
attempt a passage into the bay, which was three quarters of a mile distant ; 
and in this, after two hours’ labour, we at length succeeded. The tents 
being pitched and the boats hauled up, a part of our hands were employed 
in repairing the damages occasioned by the young ice, while the rest were 
despatched inland in search of game: in this pursuit they were not suc- 
cessful, only one hare being brought in before dark. Finding that the ice 
was likely to prove an obstacle of which we could not calculate the extent 
or continuance, we began at once to reduce our daily expenditure of provi- 
sions, in order to meet any contingency. 

Ascending the hill at daylight on the 17th, we were much disappointed in 
finding that, though the ice continued to drive a little to the S.E., it was 
even more compact than before, the loose masses through which we had 
sailed the preceding day being now closely set together. Our people were 
to-day rather more successful in pursuit of game, bringing in seven hares 
before sunset. These animals were quite white, presenting so strong a con- 
trast with the colour of the ground on which no snow as yet remained, as 
to render them very conspicuous at a distance; and we often killed them 
on landing, by having observed their situation while rowing along-shore at 
the distance of half a mile or more. Several of the ermines also which we 
had procured for the last week or two were entirely white, except the little 
brush at the tip of the tail, which was black. In other specimens of this 
animal, however, the back was quite brown and the belly of a delicate light 
straw or sulphur colour. 

It was high water on the morning of the 18th, at four o’clock, being some- 
what earlier than the preceding tide ; a kind of irregularity which was. very 
common about the mouth of Lyon Inlet at this season, rendering it impossi- 
ble by one or two observations to calculate the true time of tide on the full 
and change days of the moon. As soon as it was light enough to make out 
the situation of the ice, which had now drifted considerably to the south- 
ward, we left the bay with a fresh and favourable breeze, and at a quarter 


= 


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Reyes ee TEEN Teen ee i A Re ne OT cot re RENE Mine MRT OE eta oc At Red aC ne Ne ae RR ss " . ons 


hated eaten 


Tea RH as ee 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 105 


past eight A.M., after a quick run through “sailing ice,” landed to breakfast 
on the south-east point of this shore, which afterwards received the name of 
Care Martineau, out of regard for a highly esteemed friend and relative, 
There being a number of small islands and shoals about this point, we found 
much difficulty in picking our way through the ice lying aground upon them, 
which, however, we at length effected; and after passing the S.W. point, 
which I named after Mr. M‘Laren, got into clear water to the westward, 
crossing an open bay with a shoal near the middle of the entrance. Proceed- 
ing from hence with a strong breeze and a considerable sea ahead, but the 
flood-tide still running slowly with us to the N.W., we rowed several miles 
close along the shore, and entered at dusk a little cove, where the tents 
were pitched and the boats moored for the night. 

The night being cold, clear, and nearly calm, a quantity of ‘“ bay-ice,” 


1821. 
Sept. 
ww 


half an inch in thickness, had on the morning of the 19th formed in the cove, Wed. 19. 


and for some distance outside of it, which again cut the boats’ pianks very 
much, besides occasioning great loss of time in getting through it. This 
symptom of approaching winter, which had now for the first time occurred 
to us, rendered it expedient in future to select the most open beaches 
for our resting-places at night. As soon as we had extricated ourselves 
from this impediment, we rowed along without further hinderance, as no 
young ice had formed in the deeper water of the offing. After tracing every 
bend of the shore which here occurred, and especially that of a bay named, 
by Mr. Sherer’s request, Movie Bay, we landed at the point called by 
Captain Lyon, Point Faruit, at a quarter past seven ; and ascending the 
hill to take angles obtained a view of Gore Bay, easily recognising every 
other feature of the lands discovered by Captain Lyon. A mile or two of 
coast was now all that remained to be examined, in order to determine the 
connexion of Gore Bay with the rest of the land recently explored. Pro- 
ceeding therefore as soon as our observations were finished, we soon after 
entered the bay, and in the course of an hour had satisfied ourselves on this 
point. The weather being very fine, however, I determined to row to the 
head of the bay, forthe purpose of obtaining observations ; and we reached 
itexactly at noon in time for the meridian altitude. 

The place at which we landed proved to be a low and narrow isthmus, 
having on the other side a creek about a mile long and half a mile in 
breadth. The north shore of this creek, which is the northernmost land 

P 


Thur. 20. 


106 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


of Gore Bay, is high at the back, but with a strip of low land at the foot 
of the hills, affording abundant pasturage for the numerous rein-deer that 
frequent it. The stone circles of above twenty Esquimaux tents were met 
With upon the isthmus, but they all appeared to have been long deserted. 
We saw several black whales aud a few seals near the beach, upon which 
a number of masses of ice were aground, though there was none afloat in 
the bay. The isthmus is composed of small loose fragments of gneiss, granite, 
feldspar, quartz, hornblende, and some limestone. The latitude by obser- 
vation was 66° 24’ 33”; the longitude, by chronometer, 84° 39’ 50"; and the 
variation of the magnetic needle 56° 19' 52” westerly. 

A breeze springing up from the south-east just as we embarked, rather 
retarded us on our return down the bay, the entrance of which we reached 
however soon after sunset, and were about to land upon one of two islands 
that lie close of Point Farhill, when we heard a shouting, which appeared 
to proceed from some people on Georgina Island. Rowing in that direc- 
tion we heard the same kind of shouting once or twice repeated, after 
which all remained silent. Landing just before dark upon the north-west 
end of Georgina Island, we with some difficulty made our way to a shingly 
beach, by removing and cutting away a part of the grounded ice with which 
it was lined. Immediately on landing I sent Messrs. Ross and M‘Laren 
to look round from the hill above us; but as nothing could be seen or heard, 
we concluded that the Esquimaux must have been frightened at our approach | 
and purposely remained quiet. 

Being apprehensive that the south-east wind would bring in the ice and 
obstruct our return to the ships round Cape Martineau, I gave orders for 
moving at break of day on the 20th; and had scarcely launched the boats 
when my apprehensions were confirmed, by observing a great deal of close 
ice a little below the island. The navigation of boats among ice is pecu- 
liarly perplexing, in consequente of being placed so near the level of the 
water that there is no possibility of seeing the best “ leads.” On this 
account it is often more advantageous to land and look round from a greater 
height, than blindly to persevere in picking out a slow and uncertain pas- 
sage. With this intention, after in vain endeavouring for two hours to 
penetrate the ice, we put on shore at eight A.M., towards the eastern 
point of Georgina Island, where we shortly ascertained that we could make 
no progress without first retracing some of our steps to the north-west, in 


8; 


RESTA RE 


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aay 


Bie 
Ses 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 107 


which direction alone a narrow lane of water appeared to lead towards 
the main land. Pursuing this route, we were again obliged to go on 
shore at thirty minutes past one P.M. upon an island on that coast, having 
failed in our attempt to pass it on the outside. While dining, however, we 
perceived that a shoal and narrow passage within the island was still clear 
for about a mile further along shore. Having reached this ne plus ultra, we 
landed on a coast too shoal and rugged to allow the boats to be hauled 
up, and at the same time too much encumbered with ice to permit them to 
be moored afloat with safety. After unloading them therefore we allowed 
them to ground at high water, watching them as the tide came in. Many 
deer were seen, and several brace of ptarmigan killed in the course of the 
day. For eight and forty hours past we ha:!, for the first time this season, 
experienced difficulty in procuring fresh water for our consumption, the 
small streams and pools near the sea, on which we had hitherto relied, 
being now frozen to the bottom. I allude however io the very smallest 
ones of six or seven inches in depth; for those whicii were « foot or two 


deep had still plenty of water under the ice: and the surfa.. of many of * 


the larger ponds was still unfrozen, except close round the margin. 


The ice remained closely packed on ihe 2lst, 13 far as we could see Frid. 21. 


along shore, so that we were still detained in the same place. A party 
sent out to procure game, killed a deer and a hare: the former after being 
wounded took adeep lake, into which the people had to swim to get him 
out. Except these animals, which were here tolerably abundant, the game 
was scarce, though there was no want of feeding for them. The ground- 
willow was very plentiful, and so dry at this season that we easily pro- 
cured enough for keeping up a good fire all day. Some snow which 
fell in the course of the preceding night, lightly powdering the land, had 
entirely disappeared before the evening, except in places having a northern 
aspect, where it now permanently rema:::c4 for the winter. 


On the morning of the 22d the ice was sot only as close as ever, but had Sat. 22. 


forced its way much higher up towards Gore Bay. A party was therefore 
sent out to endeavour to procure vame further inland; and another em- 
ployed in gathering ground-wille v, which was here abundant and in good 
condition for fuel. Two bears, a female and her cub, being probably at- 
tracted by the smell of our cooking, came towards the tents upon the 
ice, but on hearing our voices set off in the opposite direction. A good 
deal of snow fell in partial showers in the course of the day; it was nearly 
P 2 


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Sun. 23, 


Mon, 24, day on the 24th, and in three journeys had carried all the lighter part of our 


108 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


of that tine kind which usually falls during the winter of these regions, but 
we had flake snow and even light rain some days after this. The snow 
however now remained undissolved upon the land in all situations. Our 
hunting party returned late in the evening without success, having merely 
seen anumber of rein-deer, which the want of cover prevented their ap- 
proaching. Seven days out of the nine for which we were victualled having 
now elapsed, a party was selected for walking over to the ships on the fol- 
lowing day, should the ice still continue in its present state. 

The tents were struck and the boats launched at day-break on the 23d, 
when we made tolerable way along-shore for two hours, landing occasionally 
to distinguish the best road among the ice. At eight we put on shore to 
breakfast, and then again set forward, leaving Mr. Ross to walk along the 
rocks and by appointed signals to shew us the right ‘‘ leads.” After one 


P.M., however, when we had arrived within a mile of Cape M‘Laren, we. 


could make no further progress. The wind was at this time freshening up 
from the south-west which, while it served to pack the ice more and more 
closely in the bay, was rapidly clearing the coast on the opposite or eastern 
side of the land about Cape Martineau. We had therefore the mortification 
of observing from the hills that, could we have effected our passage for three 
or four miles further along the shore, we should at once have gained an open 
sea, and should probably have met with no further obstruction the whole way 
to the ships. Being thus unavoidably detained, our people went out with their 
guns and chased a fine deer into a creck at the back of our landing-place. 
The animal being here surrounded by the men who stationed themselves on 
the beach on each side, remained swimming more than an hour, when he be- 
came fatigued ; and, after two attempts to land, was killed by persons con- 
cealed behind hummocks of ice. He proved a fine buck, and gave us about 
a hundred pounds of venison, which was taken on board for the use of the 
ships. A few brace of ptarmigan were also shot. The ground was here 
covered with snow two inches deep, which was more than at any other place 
at which we had landed. After another ineffectual attempt to push along 
the shore, by which the boats were much damaged in consequence of the 
young ice, we proposed, should the ice not alter its position, to endeavour to 
carry the boats and their geer over land on the following morning, rather 
than suffer this detention any longer. 

The ice continuing in the same state, we commenced our work at break of 


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“ORSISSE Sese re at CS SE We SS BRB SEES Soo eh aren eee a ites aU ac aed : 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 109 


baggage over land by eleven o’clock. All hands then returned for the two 
boats, across the gunwales of which the masts and oars were lashed for lifting 
them, the ground not allowing us to drag them except for a short space here 
and there. By half-past one the first boat had been carried over and, by the 
unwearied exertions of the officers and men, we had the satisfaction of 
launching the second before four o'clock, the distance being a mile and a half, 
and chiefly over rocky and uneven ground. The weather felt cold and raw 
during the day ; but we were afterwards surprised to learn that, while we were 
thus employed, the thermometer had been as low as 20° on board the ships. 
As soon as we had dined, the boats were re-loaded ; and at five o’clock we 
left the shore. A quantity of ice was still aground upon the shoals and islets 
off Cape Martineau, through which however we fortunately found a passage 
before dark, when, having cleared every obstacle, we sailed in an open sea 
and with a fresh breeze to the northward. Keeping close along the shore 
to avoid missing the ships in the dark, our first musket was immediately 
answered by a blue-light; and being guided by the lights now shewn by the 
ships, we arrived on board at nine P.M., where we found that our late de- 
tention had excited some alarm for our safety. 

During my absence from the ships, Lieutenant Hoppner had been de- 
spatched to ascertain whether the portion of land to the southward of Cape 
Edwards was insular or otherwise, with a view to save time in the examina- 
tion of this purt of the coast on my return. The land in question proved an 
island ; but the passages within it being shoal, and narrowed by several inlets, 
I determined on going on the outside, which would occupy very little more 
time with much less risk to the ships. We therefore kept to windward as well 
as we were able, during a night of ten hours of more than usual darkness, in 
a channel only seven miles in width, and with squally and unsettled weather. 


1821, 


Sept. 
wee 


On the morning of the 25th the wind had gradually veered to the south- Tues. 25. 
Ss 


ward, bringing up the ice so far as to obstruct our passage round the island, 
After making several tacks near its margin, we found it so close and 
heavy as to render a passage through it wholly impracticable, even had 
we been favoured with a free wind. We therefore hauled over to the western 
land, and at four P.M., anchored in an open bay close to the shore, and in 
twenty-three fathoms, being the ouly shciter we could find. Nothing could 
have proved more opportune than our anchoring here, as it soon came on to 
snow so hard with an increase of wind, that the situation of the ships if 
under way must have been a very hazardous one, 


1821. 
Sept. 


ww 
Wed. 26 


110 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


The wind coming rather to the eastward of south on the morning of the 
26th, and the ice having advanced much nearer than before, our situatio 
‘ was no longera sheltered or secure one. At one P.M., therefore, we weighed 
and hauled over for the eastern land, where alone from the depth and nature 
of the soundings, we entertained any hope of finding security for the night. 
We reached this coast just as the day began to close in, and, being unac- 
quainted with that part of it near which we fetched, I went in a boat soon 
after six P.M., to sound for an anchorage, the Fury being then in stays in six 
fathoms, and half a mile from several small rocky islets. Finding the 
water deepen gradually to seventeen fathoms, I soon, with the assistance of a 
boat from the Hecla, selected a birth for each ship, and leaving our little boat 
with a light, as a guide to us in anchoring, returned on board, sounding the 
whole way back. Standing in immediately to save what day-light yet re- 
mained, we struck soundings as I expected in seventeen and then in fourteen 
fathoms ; the leadsman next called out five, and before the helm could be put 
down, or the man in the opposite chains obtain another cast, the ship was 
fast aground on a bed of sunken rocks. The sails were instantly tiivown 
aback and as much weight as possible brought aft; and in the mean time 
Captain Lyon anchored on our weather quarter, for the purpose of heaving 
the Fury off by a hawser. It being fortunately dead low water at the time 
of our grounding, this was accomplished without difficulty or damage, and at 
eight o'clock the ship was backed off into deep water. After making a tack 
we anchored at half-past nine, by means of the Hecla’s light, the weather 
being now so foggy as well as dark that without this guide we could not 
again have ventured near the shore. In the course of the night some streams 
oi ice came in upon the ships, the heavier pieces tixing themselves on the 
cocks on which we had grounded. 


Thur.27, Perceiving at daylight on the 27th that the main ice had nearly reached 


us and was still advancing, Captain Lyon and myself went in the boats in- 
shore to seaich for some security against it. The bottom proved so rocky 
and irregular that no proper place could be met with till we had rowed a 
couple of miles to the northward ; and here we came to a snug though small 
cove that seemed to suit our purpose. In the mean time the ships had been 
directed to weigh, in doing which the Fury, being hampered by a light and 
baffling wind, cast the wrong way, and would once more have driven upon 
the rocks but for the timely assistance of the Hecla’s boats, which Lieute- 
nant Hoppner promptly despatched to tow her clear of the danger. Leaving 


PRS PEIRCE re on 22 


Se 


SA RRS MER 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 111 


buoys at the proposed anchorage, we returned on board at noon ; and finding 
the ice had advauced nearly a mile since the morning, I determined to lose 
no time in securing the.ships from its approach, and accordingly bore up for 
the cove, in which, after passing over a shoal with five fathoms, and discover- 
ing another dry at low water, we anchored at two P.M. in thirteen fathoms, 
muddy bottom. An officer was immediately despatched along the hills to 
ascertain before dark the exact position of the ice, which he reported to be 
quite close to the southward, filling up the entrance of the inlet. The long- 
tailed ducks were here so numerous, that I believe we disturbed some thou- 
sands of them in the boats in the course of the morning. 


1821. 
Sept. 
we 


On the 28th the ice still continued to occupy the whole mouth of the Frid. 28. 


inlet; and on the following day, the wind increasing to a strong gale from 
the E.N.E., and there being no room to drive, we were obliged to drop our 
second anchors under foot. A good deal of snow fell and the land was 
now entirely covered with it, except a horizontal strip of black along the 
sliores which, being washed by the sea and varying in breadth according to 
the time of tide, presented, except at high water, a striking contrast with 
the uniform whiteness of the rest of the land. Notwithstanding the reflected 
light occasioned by the snow, the nights were at this period so dark, that we 
could scarcely distinguish the shores of the cove at the distance of only a 
cable’s length. 


Sat, 29. 


The gale still blew hard on the 30th, and indeed increased so much at Sund.30, 


night as to render it expedient to strike the lower yards, and send the top- 
gallant masts on deck. This continued with little intermission during the 
Ist of October, when some small rain fell, which immediately freezing made 
the decks and ropes as smooth and slippery as if coated with glass, The 
mercury in the barometer stood at 29.36 inches at noon, being its minimum 
during this gale ; it then gradually rose, though the wind continued with 
equal or even increased violence for more than six and thirty hours after- 
wards. The thermometer had for several days past permanently fallen below 
the freezing point, and sometimes as low as 20° at night; which change, 
together with the altered appearance of the land, and the rapid formation 
of young ice near the shores, gave pretty evident notice of the approach 
of winter, The commencement of this dreary season in these regions, 
may indeed, be fairly dated from the time when the earth no longer 
receives and radiates heat enough to melt the snow which falls upon it. 
When the land is once covered with this substance, so little calculated to 


October, 
Mon, Il. 


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ABSTRACT of the METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL kept on board His Majesty’s Ship 
Fury, during the Month of September, 1821. 


ay| 


Place. 


Of 
Sturges 
Bourne 
Islands. 


ampton 
Asland, 


At 
anchor 
in 
Lyon 
Inlet. 


Temperature of Air 
in Shade. 


Maxi- | Mini- 
mum, | mun, 


Mean. | 


p- 


Mean Tem 


g Prevailing 
Ms Barometer. Winds. 
3 
o 
N Maxi- 
| mum, Mean Direction. Velocity. 
| inch i 
20,80 av.rigjam Wewt | light 
29.93 29.703) NW fresh 
30.01 | 20.93 |20.980| WbN fresh 
30.00 | 29.80 |29,930)/"-™- SSE} light 
; au || pm. SSE 
20.73 | 20.56 |20.652|] EDS | fresh 
. light 
29.53 SSE & ait at 
20.44 | 29.42 /29.427// Southerly ditto 
20.61 | 20.45 }29,525]/ slight and 
30.23 | 29.72 [30.0731 NW light 
30,25 | 29.99 |30. 160) SE moat, 
29.92 | 29.78 |29, 818) ESE modt, 
29.73 | 29.57 |29.623 ESE light 
.25]| 29.64 | 20.57 120. 588) Calm 
29,93 | 29.70 |29.817|| NWbW light 
30,03 | 29.97 130.005) NWbW light 
30,12 | 30.03 |30, oa] Nb modt, 
30.30 | 30.13 |30.19 NbW fresh 
| 80.41 | 30.30 |30.375] WNW | modt. 
30.40 | 30.37 [30,378] = NE light 
30.37 | $0.20 130,380] South modt, 
a.m, ey light 
80.36 | 80.13 }a0, 200%. rt & Salma} | 
30,08 | 30.02 |30,043 NWbN modt. 
30,15 | 30.11 130,128 NbW modt, 
a.m, NbW 
$0.07 | 20.58 |20.835 p.m, 8Wbs modt, 
29.66 | 20.47 |20.507 SSW modt, 
29.70 | 20.50 |20,568)| South modt. 
20.82 | 29.70 }20,700/ — SW light 
30.03 | 29.86 |20.966, NEbE modt, 
30,00 | 20,70 me EbN fresh | 
29.63 588) East strong 


= 


Prevailing 
Weather. 


fine 
fine 
fine 
cloudy 
cloudy 
hazy 
ditto 
hazy and rain 
fine 
fine 
squalls and cloudy 
hazy and rain 
hazy 
cloudy 
cloudy 
cloudy 
cloudy 
cloudy 
fine 
cloudy 
cloudy 
cloudy and snow 
cloudy and snow 
cloudy and squalls 
cloudy and snow 
cloudy and snow 
fine 
cloudy 
snow in squalls 


snow in squalls 


5 ee eee ei 


ae 
Sa 


a 


ly 


SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY. 113 


favour the absorption of heat, the frigorific process seems to be carried on 


with increased vigour, defining very clearly the change from summer to ww 


winter, with little or no intermediate interval to which the name of autumn 
can be distinctly assigned. 


The gale continuing the same both in direction and force on the 2d, I Tues. 2. 


ordered the topmasts to be struck in the evening, being apprehensive of 
starting the anchors during the night in some of the violent squalls that blew 


off the land; and it was not till two P.M. on the 3d that the gale began to Wed. 3. 


moderate. The evening was therefore employed in fidding the topmasts 
and top-gallant-masts, and in other preparations for moving ; and on the fol- 


lowing morning, having cast by hawsers fastened to the rocks, we left the Thur. 4. 


cove at eight A.M. A boat being kept ahead to sound, discovered and 
enabled us to avoid another rocky shoal with twelve feet water upon it, and 
only a yard or two in breadth, lying a little to the northward of our former 
track into the cove. 

The anchorage we had now left, and which from the security it had 
afforded us obtained the name of Sarety Cove, lies in lat. 66° 31’ 59”, and 
in longitude, by chronometers, 83° 48’ 54’, being in the north-eastern corner 
of a considerable bend in the coast, which seems to be full of dangerous 
rocks and shoals, mostly covered by the tide, and is therefore distinguished 
on the chart as the Bay or Snoats. There were considerable flocks of 
the long-tailed duck feeding on the innumerable shrimps (cancer nugaz, of 
Phipps’s Voy.) with which the sea swarmed in all this neighbourhood. The 
ground being almost wholly covered with snow, our examination of the natu- 
ral productions was necessarily much limited: the rocks were however prin- 
cipally of gneiss, and a fine specimen of asbestous actynolite was brought on 
board from a large mass of that substance. 

As soon as we had cleared the shoals, all sail was made along-shore to the 
south-east. We found the ice closely packed against the high western land, 
and as we advanced it gradually led us in towards the eastern shore till, at 
half-past eleven A.M., when we had sailed about ten miles from the cove, no 
passage could be seen from the crow’s nest between the land and the ice. ° 
Soon after noon, therefore, Captain Lyon and myself, accompanied by a second 
boat from each ship, went in-shore to look for a place in which we might 
remain till the ice had drifted farther down the inlet. We soon succeeded 
in discovering a roadstead secure enough from wind and sea, but open to the 
ice in the event of its taking a turn that way. As however it was necessary 
Q 


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Season Se sn 


aio 9 abe 


= 


1821. 
October. 
nw 


Frid. 5. 


Sat. 6, 


114 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


either to run this risk or to return a part of the distance sailed in the morning, 
we anchored at three P.M. in seven fathoms, on a muddy bottom, being 
sheltered by a point of land to the southward, and by an island to the north. 

The ice at the time of our anchoring was a mile and a half distant, and 
seemed to be fast driving out of the inlet. About midnight however the 
whole body was observed to be coming in upon the ships. The cables 
being immediately veered to prevent the anchors starting, the holding- 
ground proved so good that they did not move. The Hecla rode a very 
great strain, the floe-pieces being heavy and too large to find their way past 
us. Fortunately however the pressure of the ice relaxed soon after, and 
it then moved out again; so that not the smallest damage was sustained by 
either ship. The wind freshening up from the northward, the ice again 
acquired good way out of the inlet in the course of the day ; and I was glad 
to find, in the afternoon, that the prospect from the hills was somewhat more 
promising than before. We endeavoured to get fresh water on shore here, 
but found all the ponds, which were indeed shallow, hard frozen to the 
bottom. The ground was mostly covered with snow; but in some places on 
the rocks it had been in part dissolved, and then frozen again into a cake of 
smooth transparent ice, which made the walking very slippery. On every 
smaller stone also, and round the decayed stalk of each plant that protruded 
through the snow, a knob of the same substance was formed, and these reflect- 
ing the rays of an unclouded sun had a very brilliant effect. This appearance 
seemed to us worth noticing, as it shewed the difference between this climate 
and that of a more northern latitude where, after the snow has once fallen, 
the sun’s rays have not power to produce the slightest appearance of glazing 
on the surface till late in the spring. A flock of five ptarmigans and the track 
of a bear were seen. Captain Lyon and myself also distinctly saw a hawk, 
whose plumage appeared quite white, being the only instance in which such 
a bird was met with. The thermometer being at 15° at six in the morning, 
and rising only to 17° at two P.M., much young ice was formed in-shore. 
Every attention was paid to the clothing of the ships’ companies at this 
period when, from the suddenness of the change of temperature, and the 
necessity of frequent exposure, there is perhaps as much to apprehend in 
this respect as at almost any other time of the year. 

The ships were under way at a quarter past six on the morning of the 6th, 
the wind being fresh from the N.b.W. and the thermometer as low as 11°. 
The ships’ bends were now so coated with ice about the water-line, that we 


a 


AeA ND TET - 
are Ce se PEt 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 115 


had to beat and cut it off to prevent its impeding their way. We then ran a 
along without obstruction till we had passed Cape Edwards when, in ~~ 


hauling up for the south point of the island we were desirous of round- 
ing, we found the sea covered with “ pancake ice,” which however being 
thin and easily moved among its several component parts, does not offer 
any considerable impediment. As we advanced along the south side of the 
island, the young ice began to occur more in continuous sheets, and as 
these had in many parts been broken, and overlaid each other in the 
manner already described *, the obstruction soon became greater. To- 
wards noon we had approached the south-east point of the island, where 
we found the packed ice stretching close in with the shore. As the 
management of the ships could no longer be depended on, hampered as 
they were by the young ice, it was needless at present to attempt passing 
the point: we therefore hauled up towards a bay which here very oppor- 
tunely presented itself, and in which [ determined to await some change if 
anchorage could be met with. As soon as we had opened the bay, and a 
passage could be found for the boats through the young ice, I went in to 
sound it, accompanied by Captain Lyon, and finding the depth regular and 
the ground good, anchored the ships at three P.M. in six to seven fathoms. 
The water was here so clear that the man in the chains was somewhat 
alarmed by seeing the bottom when in nine fathoms and a half, and at our 
anchorage a shilling might have been easily seen upon the ground. The 
soundings on the south side of this island we found remarkably regular, 
presenting a striking contrast with the coast we had lately left. We had 
above thirty fathoms at two miles’ distance, and the water shoaled very 
gradually as we approached the western point of the bay, where we had ten 
fathoms within two ships’ lengths of the grounded ice, which here as well 
as all round the shores of the bay occurred in unusually heavy masses. 

Mr. Ross being sent on shore to examine the state of the ice on the other 
side of the point, reported on his return that there was a narrow channel 
between the floes and the land, but no anchoring-place in case of our being 
stopped. There being now only an hour's daylight remaining, the young 
ice fast increasing, and a strong tide running in the offing, I was obliged to 
relinquish the idea of moving till the morning. 


At daylight on the 7th I despatched Mr. Crozier to the point, beyond Sun. 7. 


* Narrative of the Voyage of 1819-20, p. 90. 


aay ays 
ten ° se, ree - 
satin tence lie magats tes Spill. Satlagntan eden Aller hie ay al 


——— eee ae _— - ~ rs a 
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~ 1821, 


October. 
ww 


Mon. 8, 


116 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


which, at the distance of one mile, he found the whole body of ice close in 
with the land, appearing very thick and heavy as far as could be seen to 
the north-eastward. After divine service I sent Lieutenant Reid for the same 
purpose, when I was glad to find that our passage was now only obstructed 
by a body of ice a mile and a half in breadth, beyond which a great deal of 
clear water appeared ; and as this ice was in rapid motion to the southward, 
there seemed every chance of our being enabled to push on in the morning. 
The bay ice round the ships was just thick enough to bear a man’s weight, 
but that in the offing was much thinner, and in many places the surface of the 
sea was still clear of it. 

The thermometer gradually fell to 10° after midnight, and to zero at six 
A.M. on the 8th. An hour before day-break Lieutenant Reid again left the 
ship, to give us information of the state of the ice round the point, with- 
out which it would have been imprudent to quit our present anchorage. 
In the mean time the sails were set and the cables hove short in readi- 
ness for moving, the instant he should make the appointed signal from the 
hill. To our great disappointment however no signal appeared ; and Lieu- 
tenant Reid acquainted me on his return, that the ice in one solid and 
unbroken “ pack,” to which he could see no end, closed compietely in with 
the beach, at a shoal and open bay on the east side of the island. The 
ice now beginning also to approach the ships, I directed the anchors to be 
weighed and lines to be run out towards the eastern side of the bay, 
which appeared to offer rather the best security against its approach. In 
this the boats at length succeeded, and the ships were accordingly removed, 
while Captain Lyon and myself landed and walked to the northward, in 
order to obtain a more distinct and extensive view of the position of the ice in 
that quarter. Having reached a hill about three miles to the northward of 
the ships, we could perceive that there was scarcely a pool of clear water 
among the ice, which filled the space between us and the main land. The 
only part of the sea in sight unoccupied by “ old” ice was along the south 
shore of the island, and this was almost entirely covered with bay-floes, 
through which a ship could not possibly have made her way. 

The formation of young ice upon the surface of the water is the circum- 
stance which most decidedly begins to put a stop to the navigation of these 
seas, and warns the seaman that his season of active operations is nearly at 
anend. It is indeed scarcely possible to conceive the degree of hinderance 
occasioned by this impediment, trifling as it always appears before it is 


AS sai FRIES ae ET ee ee 7 

Gece peels Ets tects ca ate BR EL BE SS Sie Amie Sn Sytidineher tet ee ee EPI AE Se ieee 4 eee See ee 

- _ r. t 4 oie 2 - Eyak po ra i : cs 

ES ee cs k SERRE tant TR eS ar Se a Ee ORE EA EE Se, eee ee CPE TMT ee tres Ne eer Some se = 
4. bi as iy ae ce a) Be a i ne al z ope at . 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 117 


encountered. When the sheet has acquired a thickness of about half an inch, 
and is of considerable extent, a ship is liable to be stopped by it unless fa- 
voured by a strong and free wind; and even when still retaining her way 
through the water, at the rate of a mile an hour, her course is not always 
under the control of the helmsman, though assisted by the nicest attention 
to the action of the sails, but depends on some accidental increase or 
decrease in the thickness of the sheet of ice, with which one bow or the 
other comes in contact. Nor is it possible in this situation for the boats to 
render their usual assisiance, by running out lines or otherwise ; for having 
once entered the young ice, they can only be propelled slowly through it 
by digging the oars and boat-hooks into it, at the same time breaking it 
across the bows, and by rolling the boat from side toside. After continuing 
this laborious work for some time with little good effect, and considerable 
damage to the planks and oars, a boat is often obliged to return the same 
way that she came, backing out in the canal thus formed to no purpose. A 
ship in this helpless state, her sails in vain expanded to a favourable breeze, 
her ordinary resources failing, and suddenly arrested in her course upon 
the element through which she has been accustomed to move without re- 
straint, has often reminded me of Gulliver tied down by the feevle hands of 
Lilliputians; nor are the struggles she makes to effect a release, and the 
apparent insignificance of the means by which her efforts are opposed, the 
least just or the least vexatious part of the resemblance. 

When to the ordinary difficulties which the navigation of the Polar Seas 
presents were superadded the disadvantages of a temperature at or near 
zero, its necessary conconritant the young ice, and twelve hours of darkness 
daily, it was impossible any longer to entertain a doubt of the expediency 
of immediately placing the ships in the best security that could be found 
for them during the winter, rather than run the risk of being permanently 
detached from the land, by an endeavour to regain the continent. Captain 
Lyon being of the same opinion with myself, we proceeded on our return 
to the beach to sound the north-eastern part of the bay, by making holes 
in the ice which was now strong enough to bear us. We were in hopes of 
receiving effectual shelter from the numerous grounded masses, but could 
only find births within one of them in five to six fathoms water. We 
now for the first time walked on board the ships; and before night had 
them moved into their places, by sawing a canal for two or three hundred 
yards through the ice. The average thickness of the new floe was already 


1821. 


October. 
PV! 


1821. 
October. 
Pw 


118 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


three inches and a quarter; but being in some places much less, several 
officers and men fell in and, from the difficulty of getting a firm place to rest 
on, narrowly escaped a more serious inconvenience than a thorough wetting. 
The whole sheet of ice, even in those parts which easily bore a man’s 
weight, had a waving motion under the feet, like that of leather or any other 
tough flexible substauce set afloat ; a property which is I believe peculiar to 
salt-water ice. 

In reviewing the events of this our first season of navigation, and consi- 
dering what progress we had made towards the attainment of our main 
object, it was imp»ssible, however trifling that progress might appear upon 
the chart, not to experience considerable satisfaction. Small as our actual 
advance had been towards Behring’s Strait, the extent of coast newly dis- 
covered and minutely explored in pursuit of our object, in the course of the 
last eight weeks, amounted to more than two hundred leagues, nearly half 
of which belonged to the continent of North America. This service, not- 
withstanding our constant exposure to the risks which intricate, shoal, and 
unknown channels, a sea loaded with ice, and a rapid tide concurred in pre- 
senting, had providertially been effected without injury to the ships, or 
suffering to the officers and men; and we had now once more met with tole- 
rable security for the ensuing winter, when obliged to relinquish further 
operations for the season. Above all, however, I derived the most sincere 
satisfaction from a conviction of having left no part of the coast from Repulse 
Bay eastward in a state of doubt as to its connexion with the continent. And 
as the mainland now in sight from the hills extended no farther to the east- 
ward than about a N.N.E. bearing, we ventured to indulge a sanguine hope 
of our being; very near the north-eastern boundary of America, and that the 
early part of the next season would find us employing our best efforts in 
pushing along its northern shores. 


Ds tree rt 


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Jer eae Sree een 


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PR ia GANS 5 AR LEAP SEE 


$5 fp BASE BOTH 


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OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 119 


CHAPTER VI. 


PRECAUTIONS FOR THE SECURITY OF THE SHIPS AND THEIR STORES—AND FOR THE 
HEALTH AND COMFORT OF THE CREWS——ESTABLISHMENT OF THEATRICAL ENTER- 
TAINMENTS AND SCHOOLS—-ERECTION OF AN OBSERVATORY AND HOUSE ON SHORE— 
STATE OF HEALTH AT THIS PZRIOD—PARTIAL DISRUPTION OF THE [CE IN THE BAY 
—ANCHORS AND CABLES TAKEN TO THE SHORE—GRADUAL INCREASE OF COLD, AP- 
PEARANCE OF THE AURORA BOREALIS ON SEVERAL OCCASIONS, AND VARIOUS OTHER 
METEOROLOGICAL PHENOMENA TO THE CLOSE OF THE YEAR 1821. 


Our operations at sea being now at an end for the season, my chief attention 
was directed to the security of the ships, and to the various internal arrange- 
ments which experience suggested as necessary for the preservation of clean- 
liness, health, and comfort during the winter, as well as for the economical 
expenditure of the provisions, fuel, and other stores. 

The situation which circumstances obliged us to put up with for our 
winter-quarters, was by no means as secure as could have been wished. The 
bay, though as fine a roadstead as could have been desired if situated in a 
temperate climate, was still only a roadstead ; and, being entirely open to 
the south, was exposed to a pressure from ice in that direction, unless 
the solid floe now about to be formed round the ships should shortly become 
sufficient to guard them from external injury. There was some reason, 
however, to doubt the efficacy of this protection; for, as the spring-tides 
approached, the numerous grounded masses around the shores of the bay began 
to evince symptoms of instability, one or two having fallen over and others 
turned round ; so that these masses might be looked upon rather as dangerous 
neighbours, likely to create a premature disruption of the ice, than as the 
means of security which, in seas not subject to any considerable rise of tide, 
they had so often proved to us on former occasions. To these circumstances 
was added our uncertainty whether very high tides, during the winter, might 
not crack the ice, thereby exposing the ships to the double danger of being 


1821. 
October 
ae 


a ee 


SSeS + 
ow 


SE ee 


= 


ar a =e me = Sa ae 7 fs a = —— rs 


Saws 


1821. 
October. 
wanw 


120 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


“nipped” about their water-line, and of being drifted out of the bay by north- 
erly gales. That which was, however, perhaps the most to be apprehended 
was the possibility of the ships being forced into shoal water, without de- 
taching themselves from the mass of ice cemented to their bends, the weight 
of which, hanging upon the sides of a ship ieft aground by the tide, could not 
but produce very serious injury. 

Such were the principal contingencies to which we were liable, and which, 
though we happily escaped them all, rendered our present situation an ex- 
periment I would willingly have dispensed with trying. As a measure of 
precaution we began by removing the ships into rather deeper water, by 
cutting the ice astern, so that they now lay in full six fathoms at low water. 
Several hawsers were also secured to the grounded masses ahead of the 
ships, and the chain-cables kept bent till some idea could be formed of the 
dependence to be placed on the ice, under the various circumstances of wind 
and tide that might occur. The disposition of the masts, yards, and sails 
was next determined on. The fore and main-top masts were kept fidded, 
the top-gallant-masts (except the Fury’s main one, which was kept up for the 
clectrometer-chain,) were struck, the lower yards got down to the housing, 
the topsail-yards, gaff, jib-boom, and spritsail-yard remaining in their proper 
places. The topsails and courses were kept bent to the yards, the sheets 
being unrove, and the clues tucked in. The rest of the bending-sails were 
stowed on deck to prevent their thawing during the winter; and the spare 
spars were lashed over the ships’ sides, to leave a clear space for taking ex- 
ercise in bad weather. 

In these arrangements I had kept in view a determination to send nothing 
out of the ships during the winter, as well to avoid the possibility of loss by 
robbery should any natives visit us, as to prevent a great deal of unnecessary 
wear and tear, incurred, on a former occasion, in the removal of stores to and 
from the shore. With the same view, it was my first intention to keep all the 
boats hanging at the davits, but the carpenter of the Fury having represented 
their liability to injury by frost, if not protected by a covering of snow, I then 
proposed placing them on the ice near the ships. This plan however I was 
also induced subsequently to relinquish, from our ignorance of the effect 
likely to be produced upon the ice by the winter’s tides, and we therefore 
hauled them on shore and, placing their gear in them, covered them with snow. 

About the time of our arrival in the bay, when the thermometer had fallen 
nearly to zero, the condensation of vapour upon the beams of the lower deck, 


EN A NLR Ai IA 5 Ss es ih aaah ceca 


i 


: 
4 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 121 


and in the cabins near the hatchways, commenced just as it had done at a 


similar temperature before. To remedy this evil, no time was lost in lighting J. 


a fire in the warming-stove upon the orlop-deck, every thing being previously 
moved from its neighbourhood that was likely to create danger. The iron 
tanks in the main hatchway were laid bare on the top, and the interstices 
between them filled with sand, to form a secure platform in front of the fire ; 
and the sail-room bulk-heads and stancheons covered with sheet copper. 
Four steady men, of whom one was a petty officer, were appointed to attend 
the fire in regular watches, being made responsible for the due expenditure 
of the fuel, and for the safety of e.ery thing about the stove. They had 
likewise particular charge of the fire-engine, buckets, and two tanks of 
water, all of which were kept in the hatchway in constant readiness in case 
of accidents. In addition to these precautions, some general regulations 
were established for stationing the officers and men in the event of fire ; 
and a hole was directed to be kept open in the ice alongside each ship, to 
ensure at all times a sufficient supply of water. 

In twelve hours after lighting the stove not a drop of moisture remained. 
The stream of air in the vessel on the lower deck was rapid, constant, and 
above 120° of Fahrenheit; that in the cabins near the apparatus about 100°, 
and at the end of the flue in my cabin, at the distance of forty-six feet from 
the air-vessel, it rose to 65° on the first evening, and on the two following 
days to 70° and 72°. The mean temperature of the atmosphere at this time 
was a few degrees above zero. To prevent the flues which were of sheet 
iron from parting too readily with their heat, the most exposed parts, espe- 
cially about the opening of the hatchway-door, were coated with fearnought, 
a kind of woollen stuff which, from its slowly-conducting property, was con- 
sidered well calculated to retain the warmth, and thus to convey some por- 
tion of it to the after-cabins*, The quantity of coals for which this stove 
was purposely constructed was five pecks, or a bushel and a quarter, per day ; 


* This apparatus completely answered the purpose of keeping up a uniform and comfort. 
able temperature on the lower-deck throughout the winter, as will appear by the column 
inserted for that purpose in the Meteorological Abstracts, ‘The mean temperature shewn in 
this column, viewed in connexion with that next to it, containing the temperature of the 
atmosphere, is a good proof of the efficacy of this mode of warming the deck, 

For the warming of the cabins abaft the main-mast, it was by no means so efficacious 
This defect was in some measure anticipated, from the impracticability of placing the stove 
lower in the ship, so as to increase the rapidity of the current of air 


= Ss 


122 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


otk). but by way of experiment we now commenced with a proportion of only 

.er~ four pecks, with which a constant fire was kept up throughout the twenty- 
four hours; and this quantity was subsequently found sufficient during the 
whole of this winter. 

The provisions supplied to the Expedition were calculated to last, at full 
allowance, for a period of three years from the preceding lst of July, the 
day the transport left us ; but as, in case of our passing three winters in the 
ice, and at length effecting our object, it would be absolutely necessary to 
extend our resources to the close of the year 1824, such arrangements were 
now commenced as were requisite for that purpose. Such indeed was the 
unbounded liberality with which all our supplies had been furnished, particu- 
larly in the important article of Donkin and Gamble’s preserved meats, which 
contain great nutriment in a small bulk, that by a judicious scale previously 
made out by Mr. Hooper, it was only necessary to adopt, during the inactive 
season of each winter, a reduction of one-third of the usual proportion of bread 
and spirits, and of one-sixth of the ordinary allowance of sugar. This reduc- 
tion could hardly be considered a privation, for the bread was still sufficient, 
and the spirits much more than enough, for men who had no very laborious 


PO int as shine 2 


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P 


ace 


duties to perform. 

The regulations for the maintenance of due cleanliness among the ships’ 
companies were principally the same as those established on the preceding 
voyage. The superior warmth, however, which we could now command 
between decks, rendered the drying of the clothes and the airing of the 
bedding a matter of comparative facility; while the comfort the men expe- 
rienced from sleeping in hammocks, instead of standing bed-places, now be- 
came so apparent, that the prejudice at first existing among them on this 
score soon wore off. This prejudice had indeed principally arisen from the 
daily removal and replacing of the hammocks, a trouble which, perhaps, 
occupied each man ten minutes in the twenty-four hours, but which was not : 


By A 


necessary with the bed-piaces. This very circumstance, however, is perhaps 


what constitutes the chief superiority of one plan over the other; the ventila- 


i 
Se ae ne ee 


tion of the inhabited parts of the ship being thus materially promoted, and 
the bedding removed during the whole day from the possibility of imbibing 
moisture from the victuals, breath, and other sources. 

While care was thus taken to adopt all the physical means within our reach, 


for the maintenance of health and comfort among the crews, recourse was 


also had to some of a moral nature, which experience has shewn to be usefu! 


rns 


is a a a 


an 


rsa a it ag Aa a 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 123 


auxiliaries in the promotion of these desirable objects. It would perhaps, 
indeed, be difficult to imagine a situation in which cheerfulness is mere to be 
desired, or less likely to be maintained, than among a set of persons (and 
those persons seamen too,) secluded for an uncertain and indefinite period 
from the rest of the world; havi.:g little or no employment but that which is 
in a manner created to prevent idleness, and subject to a degree of tedious 
monotony ill according with their usual habits. It was not, however, simply 
as a general principle, applicable in a greater or less degree to all situations 
and societies, that the preservation of cheerfulness and good-humour was in 
our case particularly desirable, but as immediately connected with the pre- 
vention of that disease to which our crews were most liable, and which in- 
deed, in all human probability, we had alone any cause to dread. The 
astonishing effects produced by the passions of the mind, in inducing or 
removing scorbutic symptoms, are too well known to need confirmatiun, or to 
admit doubt; those calculated to excite hope, and to impart a sensation of 
pleasure to the mind, having been invariably found to aid in a surprising 
manner the cure of this extraordinary disease, and those of an opposite na- 
ture to aggravate its fatal malignity. As a source therefore of rational amuse- 
ment to the men, soon after our arrival, [ proposed to Captain Lyon and the 
officers of both ships once more to set on foot a series of theatrical enter- 
tainments, from which so much benefit in this way had, on a former occasion, 
been derived. This proposal was immediately and unanimously acquiesced 
in; Captain Lyon obligingly undertook to be our manager and, some pre- 
paration having been made for this purpose previous to leaving England, 
every thing was soon arranged for performing a play on board the Fury once 
a fortnight. Tn this, as in more important matters, our former experience 
gave many useful hints. Our theatre was now laid out on a larger and more 
commedious scale, its decorations much improved and, what was no less es- 
sential both to actors and audience, a more efficient plan adopted for warm- 
ing it, by which we sueceeded in keeping the temperature several degrees 
above zero on each night of performance throughout the winter *. 

To furnish ration! and useful occupation to the men, on the other evenings, 


While on the subject of our plays, T cannot omit to mention that just before we left 
England, a large and handsome phantasmagoria or magic lantern had been presented to me 
for the use of the Expedition, by a lady who persisted in keeping her neo» a secret to those 
whom she was thus serving. ‘This apparatus, which was excellent of its kind, was frequently 


R 2 


SS 


sche cence 


7 > ened ah 
> ea 


poe ee ee 


la 
‘ BE 
~ at wil yeh. sai 


124 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


a school was also established under the voluntary superintendence of Mr. 
Halse, for the instruction of such of the men as were willing to take advan- 
tage of this opportunity of learning to read and write, or of improving in 
those acquirements. The same plan was adopted on board the Hecla, Ben- 
jamin White, one of the seamen who had been educated at Christ Church 
school, volunteering to officiate as school-master. Tables were set up for the 
purpose in the midship part of the lower deck ; some of the men already thus 
qualified undertook the task of assisting in the instruction of their shipmates, 
and thus were about tweniy individuals belonging to each ship occupied 
every evening from six till eight o’clock. I made a point of visiting the 
school occasionally during the winter, by way of encouraging the men in 
this praise-worthy occupation, and I can safely say that I have seldom 
experienced feclings of higher gratification than in this rare and interesting 
sight. 

‘While these internal arrangements were making, the interests of science 
were not negiected. A day or two after our arrival Mr. Fisher and myscif 
sel :ctod » pot for the portable observatory, which was immediately erected 
for ‘he purpose of making magnetic observations ; and as soon as the car- 
penters could be spared from the necessary duties of the ships, a house was 
built for the reception of the instruments requisite in conducting the other 
observations and experiments. A portion of the house was, by Mr. Fisher's 
suggestion, parted off as an observatory, having slits to open in the roof and 
sides in the direction of the meridian. This method was considered likely 
to be especially useful in a series of observations for the atmospheric refrac- 
tion, which Mr. Fisher proposed making at low temperatures, and which on 
account of the difficulties attending the use of the repeating-circle, and of 
most other instruments in severely cold weather, it was scarcely possible to 
do, except in the neighbovihood of a warm apartment. The house was built 
of our spare boat-plank, the sides, which were double and filled with sand 
between, being fixed (o capstan bars set upright, and sunk two feet into the 
ground, which we found quite loose and dry for about thirty inches below 
the surface ; beyond that depth it was frozen almost as hard as a rock, re- 
quiring extreme labour in digging into it. The larger apartment, in which a 


resorted to during this and the succeeding winter; and I am happy to avail myself of this 
mode, the only one in my power, of thanking our benefactress ead assuring her that her 
present afforded a fund of amusement fully answering her kind intentions. 


ON bie ani OR i pase Bs als 


eR ate he ore 


WRI ih PRs 


aE ere R eRe Rae is 


aim 


se Eine 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 125 


stove was placed, could at all times be kept at a high temperature, but the 
observatory-part when the slits were open derived of course but little ad- 
vantage in this way; and Mr. Fisher in vain endeavoured to keep his clock 
going in it, when it would have been most convenient as well as most interest- 
ing to have done so. The house was also of service for receiving the che- 
mical apparatus, and materials furnished for certain experiments recommended 
by a committee of the Royal Society, as well as for conducting those experi- 
ments whenever circumstances would permit during the winter-months. The 
electrometer-chain was hoisted up to the Fury’s masthead, the point of pla- 
tina being one hundred and twelve fect above the level of the sea, and the 
lower end secured to the ice several yards from the ship’s side. As the 
usual method of hoisting it up at sea, attached to a line of the same length 
by means of a number of short glass rods, appeared an uncertain mode of 
insulating the chain, a more effectual plan suggested by Mr. Fisher was 
afterwards adopted. A long piank being firmly secured up and down the 
royal-mast, several glass rods three or four feet apart were fixed to it hori- 
zoutally: the links being attached to the outer ends of these as a support, 
the line was altogether removed ; so that when the lower end of the chain 
was fastened also by glass rods, the whole was kept free from contact and 
thus effectually insulated. A tide-pole marked to feet and inches was drop- 
ped through the fire-hole, and firmly moored to the bottom by a heavy weight ; 
and an accurate account of the time and height of the tides registered in a 
table in the log-book throughout the winter. 

It was a matter of sincere satisfaction to observe the excellent health en- 
joyed by our people at this time, as well as the various comforts which were 
likely to ensure its continuance. The only man on the Fury’s sick-list was 
John Reid, carpenters’ mate, who, in consequence of asevere cold and cough 
occasioned by exposing himself when overheated by work, had been for 
several weeks confined with an inflammatory complaint, which threatened to 
be of a very serious and alarming nature. He was just at this time in some 
respects better, having nearly lost the cough, but was still in a delicate and 
precarious state. Every possible attention was paid to the dryness, warmth, 
and ventilation of the sick-bay, in which a fire was kept alight during a part 
of the day, and subsequently, as the cold increased, during the whole of the 
twenty-four hours, preserving a high and equable temperature of about 60°. 
This and other arrangements for the convenience of the sick rendered it 
little less comfortable than the ward of a regular hospital. 


1821, 
October. 
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126 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


Soon after our arrival here, Captain Lyon expressed a wish that his 
officers and men, with himself, should attend divine service on board the 
Fury, during the continuance of the ships in winter-quarters. This arrange- 
ment, which Mr. Fisher concurred with me in thinking in every respect 
desirable, was accordingly made, and we formed one congregation for the 
rest of the winter. Our lower-deck afforded abundance of accommodation 
in this respect ; some psalm tunes, which had been purposely set upon an 
organ, were played at the proper intervals of the service, and our little 
church formed a pleasing and interesting scene to such as are disposed to be 
interested by scenes of this nature. 

Our people were sent out to walk for exercise whenever the weather was 
favourable, and the duties of the ships did not afford them sufficient em- 
ployment; care being taken to keep them together, under an officer, and to 
furnish them with proper arms. Finger-posts were also erected, as before, 
in various parts of the island near the bay, for the purpose of directing per- 
sons to the ships if surprised by snow-drifts. 

The weather continued wintery and inclement from the time of our arrival 
in the bay ; but the rapid equinoctial spring-tides coming on soon after, 
prevented the permanent freezing of the sea in the offing. The sheet of 
ice which had formed in the bay was also in part detached by one of the 
boats having been hauled over it, her keel leaving a score which, like those 
on glass made by the scratch of a diamond, caused it to separate just in 
that place: a fresh sheet was however formed in the course of eight and 
forty hours, which appeared sufficient to secure us from external pressure. 
The flood-tide was observed to come from the north-east and to set, at 
spring-tides, at the rate of two miles anda half an hour. The phenomenon 
called frost smoke, or the ‘“ barber,” being the vapour arising from the 
sea, rendered visible by condensation, made its appearance when the ther- 
mometer sunk to 2° or 3° below zero, but at that temperature of the atmo- 
sphere it was not very dense. 

Before the ships were permanently frozen in, several black whales came 
up to blow in the small pools left open by our cutting the ice. As a 
supply of oil would have been particularly acceptable just at this period, 
every endeavour was made to strike one of them, but without success ; the 
young ice preventing the boats from approaching them notwithstanding 
the ardour of our Greenland sailors in this pursuit. 

I have before mentioned the myriads of small shrimps, (cancer nugax, ) 


URN 1 ieee 


git usemsinkaN nie 12 Mess 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 127 


which for some weeks past had been observed near the surface of the 


1821. 


October. 


sea. These insects were found to be still as numerous as ever in any w~ 


hole we made in the ice; and such was the extreme avidity with which 
they immediately seized upon any meat put overboard, to thaw or 
soak for the sake of freshness, that Captain Lyon to-day sent me a goose 
to look at, belonging to the officers of the Hecla, that had been thus 
deposited within their reach only eight and forty hours, and from which 
they had eaten every ounce of meat, leaving only a skeleton most deli- 
cately cleaned. Our men had before remarked that their meat suffered 
unusual loss of substance by soaking, but did not know to what cause to 
attribute the deficiency. We took advantage however of the hunger of 
these depredators to procure complete skeletons of small animals, for pre- 
servation as anatomical specimens, enclosing them in a net or bag with 
holes, to which the shrimps could have access, but which prevented the 
loss of any of the limbs, should the cartilage of the joints be eaten. For 
want of this latter precaution some specimens were at first rendered im- 
perfect. 

A thermometer placed in the sun at noon to-day stood at 32°, that in the 
shade being at 5°. In the course of the afternoon I witnessed, for the 
third time in my life, that peculiar and delicate colouring of the clouds 
which I have endeavoured to describe in my narrative of the last voyage, on 
the 16th and 29th of April, 1820. The red tint was, as on both those occa- 
sions, nearest to the sun, and the clouds on which the colours were exhi- 
bited were passing within four or five degrees of that object. 

We were occupied about this time in getting to hand in the holds the 
supply of provisions that would be required for the next six months, in 
order to prevent the necessity of opening the hatches oftener than once a 
week ; an arrangement which was found extremely conduciye to the clean- 
liness of the lower-deck, as well as to that of the men personally. While 
doing this, the opportunity was taken to place all the lemon-juice, pickles, 
cranberries, and any other articles liable to damage by frost, as nearly 
amidships as possible. A single cask of lemon-juice was however left in 
contact with the ship's side as an experiment, of which some account will 
be given in another place. Mr. Hooper having exposed a portion of this 
fluid to a low temperature on deck, observed it to congeal, when a ther- 
mometer immersed in it stood at 25°, into a thick but soft consistence not 
sufficiently solid to break a glass bottle. 


Wed. 17 


ep a am 
eee one were nom wr 
re eae e ae 


128 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


Several white foxes had about this period been caught in traps set on 
shore, and were kept on board by the officers, with the hope of taming 
them. Some account of these beautiful little animals is given in another 
part of this winter’s narrative. The thermometer rose as high as 21° on the 
morning of the 18th, and thick snow continued falling incessantly for many 
hours ; this remained in a very soft state upon the ice, and clung quite fast to 
the rigging, in both these respects differing essentially from what we had 
experienced during any part of our stay at Melville Island. A pair of snow- 
boots were now issued gratis to each individual in the Expedition, being 
part of a stock of extra warm clothing liberally furnished by Government, 
to be supplied to the officers and men, at my discretion, as occasion should 
require. These boots were made of strong drab cloth with thick soles of 
cork, the slowly conducting property of which substance, together with 
their large size, allowing a free circulation to the blood, afforded the ut- 
most comfort that could be desired. Boots or shoes of leather never retain 
the warmth long, under circumstances of very severe exposure. 

On the 19th we began to put on the housing-cloths for covering in the 
upper decks, and thus ensuring a comfortable and sheltered place for 
walking in any weather during the winter. These cloths were composed 
of the same stout and serviceable material as before, but were now painted 
of a light colour instead of black, under the idea, suggested by some scientific 
gentlemen in London, of preventing in a certain degree the radiation of 
heat. As it was a great cotivenience, as well as saving of candles, to admit 
daylight by the cabia and gun-room skylights, during the three hours 
which, even at the darkest period, we should have in this latitude, the 
housing was not carried the whole way aft, but finished by a screen a little 
abaft the mainmast, which with a door at the gangway was found quite 
sufficient for every useful purpose : a door with a pulley was also fixed 
at the head and foot of cach of the ladders communicating with the upper 
deck. Instead of the planks used on the former voyage for resting the 
housing-cloths upon, and which took up a great deal of room in the stowage, 
we now substituted ropes, set up to the midship spars, and to others over 
the ships’ sides, after the manner of what seamen call “ jack-stays,”” which 
answered quite as well if not better than the other plan. 

On the 20th, the thermometer again fell to zero at ten A.M., aad by mid- 
night as low as —10°, the temperature gradually decreasing as the wind 
backed to the W.N.W. during the two last days. A spirit thermometer was 


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OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGRF. 129 


now substituted for the mercurial one, for registering the temperature of the _ 1821. 


atmosphere ; and that of the sca, which always remained nearly the same in 
the winter, was only taken occasionally in future. 


On the 2lst there was a considerable space of open water in the offing to Sun. 21. 


the southward and eastward, from which a cloud of frost-smoke constantly 
issued, driving like a fog with the wind. The ships’ companies amused 
themselves, in the course of their afternoon walk, with sliding upon the ice 
in a pond, from which we were still able to procure water a couple of feet 
below the surface, though the pond was not a deep one: this advantage 
we enjoyed as late as the 26th of November, after which we had recourse 
entirely to snow melted by artificial means. The thermometer falling to 
— 13° in the course of the night, the ships’ timbers began to crack a little, in 
consequence of the freezing of the jul f the wood. I expected this to 
have occurred in a greater degree witli tic Fury than with the Hecla, the 
latter having been already seasoned to a cold climate ; but on inquiry I 
understood the reverse to be the case, hoth during the present and the 


succeeding winter. On the 23d there was a considerable snow-drift, the ‘Tues. 22. 


wind blowing strong from the westward; but the snow being less fine, and 


not so easily raised by the wind, made the atmosphere much less thick than 
in a higher northern latitude. 


The wind veering to the S.E. on the 24th and 25th, the thermometer gra- Thur. 25. 


dually rose to + 23°. I may possibly incur the charge of affectation in stating, 
that this temperature was much too high to be agreeable to us ; but it is never- 
theless the fact, that every body felt and complained of the change. We 
had often before remarked, that considerable alterations in the temperature 
of the atmosphere are as sensibly felt by the human frame, at a very low 
part of the scale, as in the higher. The difference consists only in this, that 
a change from —40° upwards to about zero is usually a very welcome one, 
while from zero to the freezing-point, as in the instance just alluded to, 
it becomes to persons in our situation rather an inconvenience than 
otherwise. This may be more readily imagined, by considering that our 
clothing, bedding, fires, and other precautions against the severity of the 
climate, having been once adapted to alow degree of cold, an increase of 
temperature renders them oppressive and inconvenient ; while any reduction 
(of the first two at least) is impracticable with safety. To this must be 
added, that at this temperature the snow becomes too soft for convenient 
walking, and the accumulation of ice in the crevices and linings of the officers’ 
s 


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1821. 
October. 
PY ww 


Novem. 
Thur. 1. 
Frid. 2. 


Sat. 3. 


Tues. 6, 


130 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY. 


cabins is converted into a source of extreme annoyance, which, while it 
continues solid, is never experienced. It is true that these inconveniences 
occur in a much greater degree in the spring; but being then hailed as the 
harbingers of the return of permanent warmth, it is easy to obviate some 
and would be hard to complain of any of them. 

During the month of October the Aurora Borealis was occasionally seen, 
though with little brilliancy. From ten P.M. till midnight, on the 2lst, it 
was visible from S.E. to S.W., but most bright in the latter direction. The 
light was principally stationary, but a few faint coruscations shot upwards 
from it now and then. During the same hours on the 23d, it was seen near 
the horizon from W.b.N. to S.W., having a tendency to form an irregular 
arch, 4° or 5° high in the centre. It was generally stationary, and at times 
tolerably bright, but upon the whole a poor display of this phenomenon. 

The mild weather with which the month of October closed continued for 
the first two days in November. On the afternoon of the 2d, the wind 
freshened up to a gale from the N.b.W., and before midnight the thermo- 
meter had fallen to —5, which latter circumstance I mention here, as differ- 
ing from what we had so often observed to take place at Melville Island, a 
rise of wind there being generally accompanied by a simultaneous rise in 
the thermometer at low temperatures. The gale continued during the 3d, 
with much snow-drift. The people were carefully kept on board during this 
and every high wind throughout the winter, to avoid the possibility of 
frost-bites. 

Captain Lyon having represented to me that a portion of biscuit in one of 
the Hecla’s bread-rooms had been found damp and mouldy, I directed a 
survey to be held on the whole, when four hundred and seventy-six pounds 
were reported to be unfit for use. These bread-rooms consisted, as before 
described, of a portion of the forehold divided off by bulkheads on each side 
of the ship, for the purpose of stowing a certain quantity of bread in bulk 
and thus increasing our resources. Notwithstanding the above-mentioned 
joss, which was all that we sustained, and only amounted to eight days’ pro- 
portion for one ship, the plan proved a good one, as the gain in stowage 
exceeded three months’ bread for both. 

On the 6th, the wind blew strong from the eastward with overcast * 


* The word “overcast” is meant to express a general obscurity of th agure colour of the 
sky, but without any separate clouds, which indeed we had never hitherto seen during, the 


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ABSTRACT of the METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL kept on board His Majesty's Ship 
Fury, during the Month of October, 1821. 


Day 


coon oon &»® we wo w= 


Ce 
2 


*yapU] UOsT Jo soueIUY 


Place. 


“purjsy 197Ur yy ye Sure y 


Temperature of Air 
ib abads. 


rature of Sea 
Water. 


Mean Tem 


Maxi. 
mum 


inches, 


29.44 
29.63 
29.83 
29.82 
29.87 
29.93 
29.99 
30.07 
29.85 
29.80 
29 89 
29.84 
20.91 
29.84 
29.95 
80.14 
20.094 
29.40 
20.53 
20.70 
29.76 
29.99 
30.04 
30,13 
20.73 
20.38 
20.60 
20.74 
29.65 
20.60 
20.80 


12,51 2.8 80,14 


inches, 
) 


29.48 
29.59 
29.80 
29.72 
29.86 
29.90 
29.92 
29.50 
29.51 
29.80 
29.74 
29.77 
20.77 
29.77 
80.05 
20.46 
20.20 
20.3] 

29.56 
29.70 
29.76 
29.90 
29.90 
29.35 

20.30 
29.40 
20.61 

20.55 

20.50 
20.60 


Barometer. 


Mean, 


inches. 


29.403 
29.562 
29,720 
29.807 
29.788 
29,805 
26,933 
30.018 
29.677 
29.650 
29.848 
29,797 
29.835 
29.797 
20.868 
80.110 
29.760 
29,272 
29.468 
29.630 
29.732 
29.893 
30.010 
30.073 
20,522 
29,333 
20,482 
20,602 
20.030 
20.553 
20,702 


20.725 


Prevailing 
Winds. Prevailing 
— Weather. 
Direction. _|Velocity. 

East. strong} ‘squally and rain 
East fresh | squally and snow 
NE fresh} ditto and ditto 

NbE modt. fine 
NbW fresh fine 
NNW light} fine and clear 
NNE modt.} hazy and snow 
NNE light] fine and clear 
SW fresh cloudy 
‘NbE modt.) cloudy and snow 
NbE modt, fine and clear 
NbW light} hazy and snow 
NbE modt, cloudy 
NbW modt.| fine and clear 
North fresh cloudy 
NNW _ | modt, cloudy 
SE modt. oondy i Soow at 
SW light jealm at times; cloudy 
WNW | fresh fine, 
NbW | modt. fine 
NW modt, cloudy 
NW modt,| fine andclear . 
NNW fresh | cloudy and snow 
oy NIE) light cloudy 
SE strong] cloudy with drift 
ESE modt, cloudy 
FSE | light cloudy 
NNE light cloudy 
NbE _ [strong clondy 
NbE fresh | cloudy with drift 
North light jcalms ; cloudy and 


snow 


ee. aoe ae 5 a 


132 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


Noni weather and considerable snow-drift. For several days about this period 

«ew the weather continued remarkably mild, the thermometer generally rising as 
high as from +-20° to +28° in the course of the day, from the 6th to the 
16th. Most of our necessary arrangements for the security of the ships and 
stores during the winter being now completed, the people were employed in 
what they called ‘rigging the theatre,” and on the evening of the 9th the 
officers performed the play of the “ Rivals,” to the infinite amusement of 
both ships’ companies. 

Sun. 11. At two P.M. on the 11th, it now being the time of spring-tides, we ob- 
served a large crack in the ice near each of the ships, which on examination 
was found to extend a considerable distance outside of them. As it appeared 
very probable that a complete separation might take place, in which case the 
ships would have been drifted out of the bay, several fresh hawsers were run 

Mon, 12, out a-head and attached to the grounded masses. On the following day, in 
order to obtain all the security in our power, some anchors and a bower- 
cable were run out and fixed on the beach. This precaution soon appeared 
no more than necessary, as half an hour before midnight the ice astern set 
outwards, leaving a little canal eight inches wide at the crack made the 
preceding day. By this disruption the ships were disengaged in part from 
the ice to which their sides were attached, and came a little astern; but for- 
tunately nothing occurred to cause farther apprehension. 

Tues. 13. On the 18th the Hecla was secured to the shore in the same manner as the 
Fury. Although the wind was from the south-east the day was beautifully 
clear, which was the more striking as we had lately experienced a great 
deal of overcast weather with northerly winds. About the time of sunset 
this evening the sky presented a most brilliant appearance, the part next the 
horizon for one or two degrees being tinged of a bright red, above which 
was a soft light blue, passing by an imperceptible gradation into a delicate 
greenish hue. 

It being desirable occasionally to register a thermometer at a distance from 
the influence of the ships, in order to compare it with the indications of that 
in common use on board, a post was sect up on the ice, and two correspond- 
ing spirit-thermometers * sclected for that purpose. The difference observed 
between them will be noticed hereafter. 


Wed. 14, 


winter in these regions. ‘The kind of weather here alluded to is usually expressed in the Logs 


and Meteorological Journals by the general term “ hazy.” 
* In making this selection, we found, on comparing ten thermometers, (of which three 


GLP ie ang ae et aries _ . " 


{e's a ad ty 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 133 . 


od 4 On the 17th several broad lanes of water were open in the offing, and the , 182), 
as . _ ice as usual in rapid motion on the castern and south-eastern sides of the cert 
he .| islend. A number of dovekies were swimming about off the point, and three =" 
nd 4 of them were killed by the Hecla’s people, but the tide floated them away. 
in On the 23d there were again several miles of clear water in the offing. This Frid. 23. 
he always occurred to the greatest extent with a westerly breeze ; while the 
of wind from the opposite quarter, or with any southing, invariably forced the 
ice close in with the shore. The frost smoke was to-day extremely dense, 
ob- rising about a degree above the horizon, so as completely to obscure objects 
ion at that height, and at the distance of three or four miles. As the winter 
red advanced this occurred to a greater extent, the cloud being more dense, and 
the also rising higher whenever there was any open water in the offing. It 
run proved a considerable inconvenience to Mr. Fisher in the course of his ob- 
, in servations in the winter, utterly precluding on most clear nights, which seldom 
rer- : happened but with a westerly wind, his obtaining a sight of low stars for the 
red a purpose of ascertaining the refraction at small altitudes. This evening the 
set ‘ officers performed the two farces of “ Raising the Wind,” and the “ Mock 
the 5. Doctor,” for the amusement of the ships’ companies. 
om a The following meteorological phenomena are all that occurred worthy of 
for- e notice during the month of November, in addition to those already men- 
' tioned: At nine A.M. on the 5th a parhelion appeared on each side of the 
the i sur, but very faint, and tinged only in a slight degree with the prismatic 
lly ‘ colours, At thirty minutes past nine A.M, on the 15th, the weather being 
eat 4 rather cloudy, and a light breeze blowing from the southward, the clectro- 
set 4 meter was tried, and again at nine P.M. on the 16th, at which time the i 
the & Aurora Borealis, consisting of a stationary white light near the horizon, was ie 
ich : visible in the S.b.E. quarter of the heavens, but in neither case was the gold- 4 ' 
ate y leaf in the slightest degree affected. | 
E From ten A.M. till two P.M. on the 17th a halo appeared round the sun, 
pcotin i its radius being 22° 40’. At cight in the evening the Aurora Borealis was | ry 
hat ¢ seen, consisting of a stationary light occupying a very small portion of the if 
nt heavens in the S.E.b.E. quarter, and close to the horizon, from which at | ni 
ed times vivid flashes shot across the zenith nearly to the opposite horizon, ie 
. were mercurial, and seven of alcohol) a difference of no less than 74° between them, their ‘i 
- 3 indications ranging between —22.5° and —80°, ‘T'wo which indicated the mean of the whole 7 
é were taken for use. At higher temperatures the difference was found to be very inconsiderable. } 
hree . { 
: 


i 


former 


ioe ee? a 


Ae! tee 


| 
| 
| 


od 


ABSTRACT of the METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL kept on board His Majesty’s Ship 
Fury, at Winter Island, during the Month of November, 1821. 


Fah renheit’s Ther- a4 Prevailing 
mometer. 3 38 | Barometer. Winds, 
DAY! pact. | ink 3 g Maxi- | Mini. Prevailing Weather. 
mum. | mum, | Mean. s *' || mum. | mum. | Mean, |] Dirceticn. | Velocity 
1 rer +19 [420.25 Pentre 3 ae light cloudy and snow 
2{| 24 |- 5 | 13.08 29.54) 29.3120.445], North {strong cloudy and snow 
8 |i- 8 14} (11.96) 29.60] 29.28 20.442! NNW | fresh squally and drift 
4l+ 2 8 | 1.71 30,12 90.78'99.099 WNW | modt. fine 
5 || 13 | 1 [H+4.33 30.18) apicnessing NW | light cloudy 
G6 || 22 |-+13 | 18.33 30.01] 29.90,29.942) EbN fresh cloudy 
7 |} 22 19 | 20.67 29.90) 20.79|29.830)) NEbE | modt. cloudy 
8 |} 20 16 | 18.00 29.91) 29.81/29.837 NbE amodt. cloudy 
9 16 15 | 15.08 29.95) 29.84/29, 893 NbE modt. cloudy 
10 || 20 | 14 | 16.04 30.12] 29.96)30.017 NNE __|,modt. cloudy 
11 |} 28 | 15 | 21.96 | 30.01 NE _ {strong hazy and considerable drift 
12 || 28 | 263 | 27.50 | 29.88 East | modt. ~ hazy 
13 |} 25 16 | 21.79 | 29.95 SE modt. cloudy 
14|| 24 | 18 | 20.71]) 70.2 || 20.16 sw modt. cloudy 
15 || 26 22 | 24.50)/ 70.0 {| 30.19 South light cloudy 
16 || 21 2x] 9.12) 70.6 || 30.16 North | modt, cloudy 
17 2\-1 0.71) 67.0 || 30.25 North light fine 
18 5 }+-1 3.831) 67.7 30.23 NNE light fine 
19 9 6 | 6.50) 65.0 || 30.10 NNE modt, cloudy 
20 || 15 6 | 10.17) 67.3 |} 30.25 North | light cloudy and snow 
ai || 13 | 6 | 9.00] 66.5 || 30.40 NNE_ lighté& cloudy - 
22 || 13 4 | 7.37!) 67.0 |] 30.40 West | modt, cloudy 
23 |} 8 |=1o |[-3.25) 65.7 || 30.30 NW light cloudy 
24 |i- 3 | 13 | 7.49] 67.0. || 30.97 NW | light cloudy 
25 |++ 2h | 3 |+0.08] 67,5 |] 20.98 SW light cloudy 
26 3 17. |—5.04/| 67.0 |] 20.86 NNW _ | modt, cloudy 
27 ]-16 | 19 | 17.42) 64.5 |] 30.00 NW _ [strong fine and clear 
Qs || 7 20 | 15.08) 67.0 || 30.15) 80.00.30.078 NW fresh fine and clear 
99 5 6 |+0.83) 61.7 || 30.08 ah ran. tan West {strong cloudy 
30 }| 11 8 | 4.92) 64.0 || 20.74 ss tabhies West [strong cloudy 


| | ee et | oe || Hen, 


+28 |-20 |+7,.75 


66.1 30. 40 ch ches 


SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY. 135 


After ten P.M. the stationary light shifted more to the southward, and then aed ‘. 
gradually disappeared. At ten P.M. on the 18th this phenomenon assumed rw 


a similar appearance in the S.b.W. quarter. On the evening of the 23d the 
Aurora Borealis made its appearance in the N.W., vivid coruscations shoot- 
ing at times across the zenith to the opposite horizon. The gold leaf of the 
electrometer was not perceptibly affected by it. On the morning of the 24th 
it was again faintly seen in irregular streams of white light, extending from 
the western horizon to the zenith: for several hours the same night also 
this extraordinary phenomenon was visible from the south-east round by 
south to west, being principally confined to a space about five degrees above 
the horizon. The magnetic needle, which was attentively watched, was 
not at all affected by any of these phenomena. On the 26th, both in the 
morning and evening, the Aurora again appeared from south-east to south- 
west, the brightest part being about ten degrees above the horizon, 
and with pencils of rays shooting upwards towards the zenith. In almost 
every instance it is observable that the light, however irregularly disposed 
in other respects, has a tendency to assume an arch-like form ; but I think 
a plane bisecting the arch would more generally have coincided with the 
true than the magnetic meridian, in the phenomena we had here an opportu- 
nity of observing. This was particularly the case on the morning of the 27th, 
when at six A.M. the Aurora formed one broad continuous and well-defined 
arch, its centre passing rather to the southward of the zenith, and its legs 
appearing to rest upon the horizon at east and west. For several hours on 
the evening of the 28th it was seen in the south-east, with rays darting ra- 
pidly up.nearly as high as the zenith. There is almost always one stationary 
patch of light near the horizon, appearing, as it were, the source whence 
the shifting or variable part of the phenomenon proceeds. It will be seen 
from about this period how much more frequently the Aurora seemed to 
issue from the south-eastern quarter than from any other during the rest of 
the winter. 


On the lst of December there was a space of many miles in which none of Decemb. 
the “old” ice was visible. The sea was here for the most part covered with meh ts 


a very thin sheet of “ young” ice, probably the formation of a single day, 
since the westerly wind had driven the floes off the land. The whole of this 
was in motion with the tide, which breaking the thin floes left several spaces 
of clear water. It was observable that though a considerable frost-smoke 
arose from the young ice, it was not so dense as that from the clear water, 


Sun, 2. 


136 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


immediately over every pool of which a little thick cloud floated, correspond- 
ing as well in size as in situation with the pool from whence it issued. “A 
number of dovekies were swimming about the point ; and it being desirable 
if possible to obtain some of them for the sake of ascertaining their plumage 
at this season, we hauled the small boat over and launched her. Mr. Ross 
succeeded in killing one of the birds which was preserved as a specimen, but 
it was with great difficulty that the boat avoided being carried away from the 
shore by the young ice. I was on this account afraid of repeating the attempt 
during the rest of the winter. One grouse was seen on shore; it appeared 
entirely white, except having its tail black near the tip. 

I was this day under the necessity of closing in my stern dead-lights, and 
fixing the cork-shutters between the double window-frames of my cabin, the 
temperature having lately fallen rather low at night; in consequence of which 
one of the chronometers (No. 369 of Arnold) had stopped on the 26th of 
November. We had before this time banked the snow up against the ships’ 
sides ; but it was now thrown higher, and its thickness at the bottom increased 
to about four feet. Besides this a bed of snow, three feet deep, was subse- 
quently laid on the deck, over my cabin, and also on the forecastle over the sick- 
bay, to assist in retaining the warmth in those parts of the ship, an office which 
it seemed to perform very effectually. It was impossible, however, as the cold 
increased, to keep up a tolerably comfortable temperature in the cabin, if the 
fire was suffered to go out for several hours: for instance, the night after 
the above arrangements had been made, the fire was out for only six hours; 
and the consequence was, that the thermometer fell to 27°, and could be got 
no higher the following day, in the after part of the cabin, though only nine 
feet from the stove, than 33°. This was indeed a most inclement day, the 
temperature of the atmosphere having for the first time fallen to — 27°, 
accompanied by a fresh wind from the northward and westward. 

At six in the evening of the 5th there was a halo round the moon, with 
a confused appearance of a parasclena on the lower part of it. This halo, 
as [have often observed with others, had the appearance of being oval, the 
vertical diameter seeming to be the longest; but on measuring them with a 
sextant the deception became evident. 

From six till ten P.M. on the 11th, a halo appeared about the moon, with 
three paraselene, two at the sides and one above it. This halo varied in its 
degree of clearness as the haziness of the atmosphere became greater or less, 
and was sometimes a little tinged with colour. A more rare phenomenon 


{DION gi RN IE« 0 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE.. 137 


than this was noticed at seven A.M. on the 20th, by the officer of the watch, Rveealy 
namely, that the moon in rising had assumed the appearance of two. On “~~ 
hearing this I went on deck, and saw an inverted image of the moon below 


and nearly touching that luminary, which was about half a degree high ai the 
time, thus: 


Mr. Scallon told me that the image had at first been as distinct as the moon 
itself, and it was nearly so when I saw it. This phenomenon continued 
about five minutes, the barometer being 29.48, and the thermometer 20°, 
with very clear weather at the time. 

A white hare was seen on shore on the 5th, as were two or three others in 
the course of the winter. It is difficult to conceive how these animals find 
subsistence while the snow lies deep on the ground, unless indeed they 
become in a certain degree torpid during the winter, At Melville Island, 
where in the summer they were found in considerable numbers, we never 
saw one, nor even the track of one, before the month of June. 

The wind freshened from the S.E. at night, and blew a gale from that Thur. 6. 
quarter all the following day, the thermometer keeping up to about zero as 
usual, with the wind in that direction. 

At the time of sunset, this after:oon, and for half an hour afterwards, Mon. 10. 
the sky exhibited a beautiful red colour near the southern horizon, and a 
soft rich purple to the northward. A great deal of clear water was 
observed in the offing, and at night, a dark water sky hung over it. 
This appearance was darker, and served better to define the exact ex- 
tent of the open water during the winter nights than I ever saw it under 
any other circumstances, probably in consequence of the uninterrupted 
whiteness of every other object. The cold increased to—27° once more 
at midnight on the 10th, as indicated by the thermometer on the ice, but the 
ships continued warm and comfortable. A register-thermometer kept near 
the chronometers in the book-cases of the cabin indicated in general a 


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Tues. 11. 


Wed. 12. 


Thur. 13, 


138 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


minimum temperature of 50° to 53°, and frequently during the day was as 
high as 60°. The temperature of the lower deck at midnight was usually 
about 50°, without any other fire than that in the warming apparatus. 

On the 11th, the wind being northerly and the weather tolerably clear, 
stars of the third magnitude were visible to the naked eye, as late as forty 
minutes past cight apparent time, those of the second magnitude till a quarter 
past nine, and of the first till ten o’clock ; after which the sky became rather 
overcast. This may serve to give some idea of the degree of light at this 
period. The twilight was of course of long duration, and the redness pro- 
duced by the sun’s rays was sometimes very plainly visible for more than 
three hours after his setting. 

The temperature of the sca-water in the fire-hole was 29° and, by the same 
thermometer, that at the bottom in six fathoms and a half was 30°. The de- 
position of small snow, which I have remarked as almost always going on in 
these regions in the winter, took place this evening in occasional showers, so 
thick as to oblige us to cover the instruments with which we were observing, 
though the stars were plainly visible all the time, and the night was in every 
other respect what would generally be called clear. 

A great squeezing of the young floes took place at the S.E. point of the 
island on the 12th. The noise it makes when heard at a distance very much 
resembles that of a heavy waggon labouring over a deep gravelly road; but 
when a nearer approach is made, it is more like the growling of wild ani- 
mals, for which it was in one or two instances mistaken. It was however 
rather useful than otherwise to encourage the belief that bears were abroad, 
as, without some such idea, people are apt to become careless about going 
armed. : 

On the 13th, the thermometer fell to —31°on the ice, being the greatest 
degree of cold we had as yet experienced. There was, notwithstanding this, 
a great deal of open water in the offing, covered only by a very slight sheet 
of young ice. A favourite walk with the officers during the winter was 
round the S.E. point, where there was in consequence a hard and beaten 
path upon the snow. The rapid tide which ran here, always kept the point 
clear of ice, whenever there was any open water at all; and accustomed as 
we had before been in the winter to a sea perfectly frozen up, it can scarcely 
be conceived what a relief it was to the tedious monotony of our situation, 
to see water naturally in a fluid state and in motion, with birds swimming 
about in it, even at this inclement season of the year. 


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OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 139 


The thermometer rising to — 5° in the course of the 17th, the weather ap- 18?! 
peared warm to our feelings. It proved favourable also for another play —~ 


which had been fixed for this night, and the ‘“ Poor Gentleman” was per- 
formed by the officers in so admirable and feeling a manner as to excite un- 
common interest among the men, and to convince me more than ever of the 


utility of our theatrical amusements. The 18th was a remarkably clear day Tues. 18. 


without any of that cloudiness which usually hung about the southern hori- 
zou. The sun was therefore clearly visible at noon, when such was its oval 
shape that its horizontal diameter exceeded the vertical by 4'.07". We had 
light in the cabin for reading and writing for three hours and a quarter with- 
out candles, and about five hours for convenient walking. 

We had about this time occasion to notice, that ever since our arrival in 
the bay, a gradual, though slow, alteration had been taking place in the size 
of the numerous grounded masses of ice in-shore, occasioned by every tide 
leaving a thin additional coat all round the surface of each; so that by this 
time, only a narrow passage could be found between some of them, where 
at first there had been a large space. In the course of the winter, also, a 
number of them were split and upset by the great rise of tide, which, to- 
gether with the cracking of the floe, and the occasional overflowing of the 
water upon it near the beach, made the landing extremely bad. This in- 
convenience was particularly felt by Mr. Fisher, whose various avocations 
led him most on shore during the hours of darkness. 


On the 2lst, it blew strong from the N.W., with clear weather overhead, Frid. 21. 


and some snow-drift below. We remarked, however, that the snow was still 
much less minute than at Melville Island, and therefore less easily raised by 
the wind into drift. The peculiarity before remarked of its adhering to the 
masts and rigging still continued also. I had three hours’ daylight for 
writing in the cabin this day, the light being admitted only by the sky-light, 
and the weather unfavourable on account of the snow-drift. 

The shortest day had now passed, and all that could be remarked upon it 
was, that nobody seemed to consider it a matter of much interest one way or 
the other. On the former occasion, when novelty combined with the peculia- 
rity of our situation to give it more importance, it seemed to constitute a sort 
of cra in our winter’s calendar and excited a more than ordinary sensation in 
our minds. The case was now very different ; our wintering was no longer 
an experiment, our comforts were greatly increased, and the prospect of an 
early release from the ice as favourable as could be desired. Under these 
72 


—— a a lm tS a MER ESET ICT 


i i cao 


1821. 


Decemb 


yw 


140 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


circumstances, it may easily be imagined how light the winter sat upon us, 
“and with what comparative indifference we now regarded the passing of 
the shortest day. 


Mon. 24. On the evening of the 24th, being Christmas-eve, the ship’s companies 


were amused by the officers performing the two farces of “« A Roland for an 


Tues. 25. Oliver,” and the “ Mayor of Garratt.” On Christmas-day, divine service 


on board the Fury was attended by the officers and crews of both ships. 
A certain increase was also made in the allowance of provisions, to enable 
the people to partake of Christmas festivities to the utmost extent which our 
situation and means would allow; and the day was marked by the most 
cheerful hilarity, accompanied by the utmost regularity and good order. 
Among the luxuries which our Christmas dinner afforded was that of a joint 
of English roast beef, of which a few quarters had been preserved for such 
occasions, by rubbing the outside with salt, and hanging it on deck covered 
with canvass. The low latitude in which our last summer’s navigation was 
performed would have rendered its preservation doubtful without the salt. 

Considering it interesting to try whether any difference could be detected 
in the rate at which sound travels at low temperatures, as compared with 
that usually assigned to it, we commenced a series of experiments for 
that purpose, by measuring a base completely across the ice in the bay, 
and noting by a chronometer the interval between the flash and report of a 
six-pounder gun fired several times at the extremity of it. An account of 
these experiments will be given in its proper place. 


Sun. 30. For the last two days with the thermometer on the ice indicating a tem- 


perature of — 27° to — 30°, that of the Fury’s lower deck continued from 61 

to 64°, affording a convincing proof of the efficacy of our warming apparatus. 
To assist in preventing the escape of warm air, and the consequent conden- 
sation of the vapour near the ladder-hatchways, which must unavoidably be 
frequently opened during the day, screens had been in the early part of the 
winter fixed round the lower part of them, and this plan will I believe be 
always found necessary under similar circumstances. In spite of every pre- 
caution however, the immediate neighbourhood of the ladders must always 
be colder than the rest of the deck, owing to the rush of cold air which in- 
variably takes place on the opening of the doors. I may here take the op- 
portunity of remarking, that the construction of a ship appears in one respect 
unfavourable for preventing the escape of the warm air generated by the fires, 
and the admission of cold from the external atmosphere. _ I allude to all the 


4 

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oe 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 141 


openings of a ship’s inhabited deck into the open air, occurring from above, 
so that besides the tendency to restore an equilibrium occasioned by the 
rarefaction of the air below, that operation must be much assisted by the 
comparative specific gravities of the two atmospheres; the warm by its 
lightness, constantly struggling to ascend through every open crevice, and 
the cold by its weight, as incessantly forcing itself downwards. A considera- 
tion of this circumstance will perhaps set in a still stronger light the value of 
placing cork or some other slow conductor of heat, as a lining for the deck 
above, while it also points out the necessity of stopping up as far as practi- 
cable every hole and cranny communicating with the cold superincumbent 
atmosphere. On the same account there can be little doubt that, at every 
opening of our hatchway-doors during the winter, a larger volume of warm 
air rushed out than would have escaped by a door of equal size, placed below, 
or on a level with the inhabited deck *. 

The sea presented to-day a large open space to the south-eastward, but 
the temperature of the atmosphere being low it was almost entirely coated 
with a sheet of young ice. In some clear pools near the point a single flock of 
more than fifty dovekies were swimming about, besides other smaller ones. 
While continuing the experiments on sound this evening, Mr. Fisher and 
myself remarked that Sirius, which was nearly on the meridian at the time, 
exhibited the most beautiful violet and blue colours that can be imagined. 
The violet was to the westward, which was the direction in which the moon 
was, and the Aurora was playing about at the time. 1 thought I had never 
before seen any thing so brilliant; the play of prismatic colours in a cut 
diamond comes the nearest to it. 

The concluding month of this year presented more frequent as well as 
more brilliant displays of the Aurora Borealis than we had noticed at an 
earlier period of the winter. On the evening of the 2d, we observed it 
constantly appearing, from five till ten o’clock, in one quarter of the heavens 
or another, but entirely confined to the southern side of the zenith. It 
consisted sometimes of luminous blotches or small clouds, at others of 
coruscations shooting upwards, and a stationary light always perceptible 
near the horizon from S.S.E. to S.W. The light was white or yellowish 
white, and the compass was not affected. On the evening of the 3d, it 


* The passage to an Esquimaux hut is in this respect better placed than our doors ; for, 
being rather below the level of the apartment, the warm air constantly floats above it in the 
dome of the hut, having no outlet but through the materials of which it is constructed. 


1821, 
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ecemb. 
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1821. 
Decemb. 
wry 


142 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


also appeared in little white spots, resembling the media in the heavens, 
as viewed by a telescope, or the milky-way on a very clear night. I may 
here remark by the way, that this last beautiful feature of the heavens very 
seldom appeared here, for, notwithstanding the notion generally entertained 
of the extreme clearness of the atmosphere under a polar sky, we have always 
found the very reverse to be the fact. It is true, indeed, that with a nor- 
therly or westerly wind, the sky was generally what would be called clear ; 
but there is scarcely one night in twenty when the heavenly bodies, if viewed 
through a telescope, do not appear surrounded with more or less haze. In- 
deed, it very seldom happens that a considerable deposition of minute snow 
may not be observed to take place, even in the clearest nights in these regions. 

While making lunar observations on the evening of the 4th, Mr. Ross 
and myself remarked a meteor falling from tue S.E. to N.W., being about 
40° high when it disappeared. It fell so slowly as to be visible for four 
or five seconds, but was in every other respect like the falling stars, ‘as 
they are called, seen in other parts of the world. At eleven P.M. the 
Aurora was seen forming an arch, about 5° high in the centre, and ex- 
tending from S.S.W. toS.E. The magnetic needle cf Alexander's compass 
was not perceptibly affected during its continuance. At half-past two P.M., 
on the Sth, the wind being light from the E.S.E., and the atmosphere not 
very clear, though free from clouds, the electrometer was tried, but without 
effect, the gold leaf not being in the least degree excited. 

On the afternoon of the 14th, the Aurora began to shew itself as soon 
as it was dark, consisting principally of rays shooting up from the horizon 
in the E.b.N. towards the zenith, and sometimes passing through but very 
little beyond it, towards the opposite side of the heavens. Just before ten 
o'clock, however, a much finer display of this phenomenon presented itself 
than we had yet seen this season. There still remained a place near the 
horizon at E.b.N., whence a bright light seemed constantly to issue, and if 
any part of the phenomenon could be said to continue uniformly the same, 
it was the leg of a broadish arch in that point, which scarcely ever changed 
its place, or the intensity of itslight. The arch was at times completed, or 
thrown over to the W.S.W., being 15° high in the centre, and generally 
about 2° broad, though in this respect it was irregular and somewhat vari- 
able. The lower part of the arch was always well defined, the space under 
it appearing dark, as if a black cloud had been there, which, however, was 
not the case, as we saw the stars in it unobscured except by the light of the 


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OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 143 


Aurora. The upper side of the arch was never well defined ; but its light _182!. 


ecemb. 


was gradually softened off, so as to mingle with the azure of the sky, and ww 


often sent up coruscations towards the zenith. 
Thus far description may give some faint idea of this brilliant and extra- 
ordinary phenomenon, because its figure here maintained some degree of 
regularity; but during the most splendid part of its continuance, it is, I 
believe, almost impossible to convey to the minds of others an adequate con- 
ception of the truth. It is with much difference, therefore, that I offer the 
following description, the only recommendation of which perhaps is, that it 
was written immediately after witnessing this magniticent display. 
Innumerable streams or bands of white and yellowish light appeared to 
occupy the greater part of the heavens to the southward of the zenith, being 
much the brightest in the S.E. and E.S.E., from whence it had indeed often 
the appearance of emanating. Some of these streams of light were in right 
lines like rays, others crooked and waving in all sorts of irregular figures, 
and moving with inconceivable rapidity in various directions. Among these 
might frequently be observed those shorter collections or bundles of rays, 
which, moving with even greater velocity than the rest, have acquired the 
name of the “merry dancers,” which, if T understand aright the descriptions 
given of them by others, I do not think I ever saw before. In a short time 
the Aurora extended itself over the zenith, about half-way down to the 
northern horizon but.no farther, as if there was something in that quarter 
of the heavens which it did not dare to approach. About this time, how- 
ever, some long streamers shot up from the horizon in the N.W. which soon 
disappeared, While the light extended over part of the northern heavens, 
there were a number of rays assuming a circular or radiated form near the 
zenith, and appearing to have a common centre near that point, from which 
they all.diverged. The light of which these were composed appeared to 
have inconceivably rapid motion in itself, though the form it assumed and 
the station it occupied in the heavens underwent little or no change’ for 
perhaps a minute or more. Suppose, for instance, a stream of light to have 
occupied a space between any two of the stars, by which its position could 
be accurately noticed, the light appeared to pass constantly and instanta- 
neously from one to the other, as if, when a portion of the subtle fluid of 
which it is composed had made its escape and vanished at the end next one 
of the stars, a fresh supply Was uninterruptedly furnished at the other. This 
effect is a common one with the Aurora, and puts one in mind, as far 


1821. 


Decemb, 
ww 


144 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


as its motion alone is concerned, of a person holding a long ribbon by one 
end, and giving it an undulatory motion through its whole length, though its 
general position remains the same. One of the most striking of the various 
locomotive properties of the Aurora is that which it often has laterally, by 
which I mean in the direction perpendicular to its length. This motion, 
compared with the other, is usually slow, though still very rapid in the “ merry 
dancers,” which seem to observe no law with regard to the rest of the pheno- 
menon. When the streams or bands were crooked, the convolutions took 
place indifferently in all directions. The Aurora did not continue long to the 
north of the zenith, but remained as high as that point for more than an hour ; 
after which on the moon rising, it became more and more faint, and at half- 
past eleven was no longer visible. 

The colour of the light was most frequently yellowish-white, sometimes 
greenish, and once or twice a lilac tinge was remarked, when several strata, 
as it were, appeared to overlay each other, by very rapidly meeting, in 
which case the light was always increased in intensity. The electrometer 
was tried several times, and two of Kater’s compasses exposed upon’ the 
the ice, during the continuance of this Aurora, but neither was percep- 
tibly affected by it. We listened attentively for any noise which might 
accompany it, but could hear none, but it was too cold to keep the ears 
uncovered very long at one time. The intensity of the light was some- 
thing greater than that of the moon in her quarters. Of its dimming the 
stars there cannot, I think, be a doubt. We remarked it to be, in this 
respect, like drawing a gauze veil over the heavens in that part, the veil 
being most thick, when two of the luminous sheets met and overlapped. 
The phenomenon had all the appearance of being full as near as many of the 
clouds commonly seen, but there were none of the latter to compare them 
with at the time. 1 may in conclusion remark that, notwithstanding the 
variety and changeableness displayed by this Aurora, there was throughout 
a perceptible inclination in the various parts of it to form an irregular arch 
from E.b.N, over to 8S.W.b.W. 

From seven till ten P.M., on the 20th, while engaged in making observa- 
tions upon the ice, we observed the Aurora almost constantly appear- 
ing, though varying in its form and situation. It commenced with a 
number of vertical coruscations from the S.E., south, and N.W. horizons, 
darting nearly as high as the zenith. This being discontinued after half an 
hour, the leg of an arch appeared at E.S.E., inclining towards the south, 


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which remained nearly unaltered for three quarters of an hour, its light being ae 
of a yellow cast and remarkably brilliant. After this an arch was gradually ni 


formed by the light extending over to W.N.W., the brightest portion of it 
being still that in the eastern quarter. The arch was irregular and some- 
times not continuous, but divided into a number of luminous patches like 
n.iule. We also noticed, and now remembered to have done so once before, 
that there were in some places narrow but long horizontal separations of the 
light, appearing like so many dark parallel streaks lying over it, which, how- 
ever, they were not, as the stars were here most plainly visible. The mag- 
netic needle was not affected. This night was one of the clearest we had 
during the winter, the milky-way appearing unusually bright and well-defined. 

On the 22d, the electrometer was tried, the wind being light from the 
N. W., with overcast weather, and some very small snow falling; but no 
perceptible effect was produced upon the gold leaf. In the evening, the 
Aurora appeared, like a white cloud in the E.S.E. At half-past nine, 
an irregular arch extended from that point of the horizon to the S.W., 
the breadth being from one to two degrees, though constantly varying, and 
its height in the middle ten degrees. When this kind of arch appears most 
perfect, it is less frequently than any other kind attended with coruscations, 
or very rapid motion in the light. When these do accompany it, they are 
almost invariably observed to proceed from the upper side of the arch only. 

In the evening of the 23d, though the wind was from the N.W., a 
number of small roundish clouds, very unusual here at this season, rose 
from the S.E., and the sky was very prettily illuminated in the intervals by 
the Aurora. These clouds remaining quite dark in their appearance, ex- 
cept about their edges, even during the most brilliant display of the Aurora, 
seemed to indicate that the latter phenomenon was the most distant of the 
two. The light of the Aurora was, as usual, much the brightest in the S.E. 
quarter. This phenomenon again made its appearance very beautifully, on 
the 24th, resembling, in most particulars, that described on the 14th. It was 
principally confined to the southern half of the heavens, and the different 
streamers and coruscations, though almost infinitely varied, had an evident 
tendency to arch from E.b.S, over to the opposite horizon, The “ merry 
dancers ” were also playing about with indescribable rapidity, and many of 
the sheets of light, when they overlapped in meeting, had a very perceptible 
lilac tinge. 

On the morning of the 28th, the Aurora Borealis appeared faintly to the 
u 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 145 


146 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


1821, westward, from 4 to 6 o’clock. Early on the following morning, it was ob- 


Decemb. 
Py 


served to form an arch of very bright light from S.E. to 8.S.W., its cenire 
being 30° high. In its general form it was quite stationary, as indeed the 
more perfect arches usually are, but varied occasionally in the intensity 
of the light, and also in its continuity. From the time that thé daylight 
began to leave the heavens in the afternoon, the Aurora again appeared, 
commencing in the S.E.b.E. with very long coruscations or streamers, 
which afterwards shot past the zenith over to the N.W. At 9 o’clock, the 
light had become concentrated into a low arch, ‘4° high in the centre, well 
defined at the lower edge, but not so at the upper. The legs were at first 
situated in the E.S.E. and S.W.b.W. quarters, but the former gradually 
shifted about two points more to the south. At one time in the evening, 
and before the phenomenon had assumed the more regular arch-like form 
above-mentioned, we observed for the space of a few minutes together the 
same radiated appearance about the zenith as that described on the’ 14th. 


oN Ly 


vegn 


This changed pretty suddenly into an irregularly circular band of light, like 
a ribbon, thus: 


and then again returned to the radiated form, but neither of these appear- 
ances continued very long. There was a great deal of the lilac tint observ- 
able this evening, and the effect of the sheets of light in obscuring the stars 
was again too evident to admit a doubt. 

The frequency and ill success with which we had tried the electrometer 
made us almost despair of ever detecting any electricity in the atmosphere, 
but on the evening of the 13th the chain being observed to tremble very 
much, we thought the motion might have been occasioned by this cause. 


BSB ae arg ES a ey gc art tn ene ee ee ne . 
+ ? ® LEA SCY OLR SRE el ol PRL RS eT pees ee eID | Mo eee Stale Se cake hea iii oe AN ur Ta cae fi HAE aoe mia 


: Se beac te nae ee 


like 


ee ne eee eT ee 
a aa Ne cece ie tac 


. OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 147 


On applying the electrometer, however, the gold leaf was not in the slightest 
degree affected. We aiterwards found it to-have arisen from the wind acting 
upon the plank at the mast-head in a certain angle, the same effect being 
once or twice afterwards produced with a breeze in the same direction. 

On the arrival of the last day of the year, it was impossible not to expe- 
rience very high gratification in observing the excellent health and spirits 
enjoyed by almost every officer and man in both ships. The only invalid in 
the. Expedition was Reid, our carpenter’s mate, and even he was at this 
period so much improved, that very sanguine hopes were entertained of his 
continued amendment. In consequence of the effectual manner in which 
the men were clothed, particularly about the feet, not a single frost-bite had 
occurred that required medical assistance even for a day, and, what was more 
important to us, not a scorbutic symptom had appeared. 

. To increase our ordinary issue of anti-scorbutics, ‘liberal as it already was, 

we had from the commencement of the winter adopted a regular system of 
growing mustard and cress, which the superior warmth of the ships now 
enabled us to do. on a larger scale than before. Each mess, both of the offi- 
cers and ships’ company, was for.this purpose furnished with a shallow 
box filled. with mould, in which a crop could generally be raised in from 
eight or ten days. The quantity thus procured on board the Fury now 
amounted to above fifty pounds’ weight, and before the arrival of spring to 
nearly one hundred pounds; and, trifling as such a supply may appear to 
those who are in the habit of being more abundantly furnished, it will not be 
considered to have been without its use, when it is remembered how complete 
a specific for the scurvy fresh: vegetable substance has invariably proved. In 
consideration of the salads thus raised, Mr. Edwards recommended our re- 
serving the cranberries intended to have been issued during a part of this 
winter, until circumstances might render them more essentially requisite 
to the health of the ships’ companies.. This arrangement was accordingly 
adopted and the event fully justified its propriety. 

With respect to the occupations which engaged our time during this 
season of unavoidable inactivity, I can add little or nothing to my former 
account of the manner in which we passed the winter at Melville Island ; for 
the two situations were so nearly similar, and our resources necessarily so 
limited in this way, that it was not easy to produce much variety in the 
employment of them. It may be imagined, and was indeed anticipated by 
ourselves, that want of novelty was on the present occasion a disadvantage 

u2 


1821. 
Decemb. 
wry 


148 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY. 


Piet likely to render our confinement more tedious than before; but this by no 

\‘“r~ means appeared to be the case: for the men sufficient employment may 
always be found to prevent the possibility of their being idle; and I have 
already noticed the auxiliaries, to which we had recourse to assist in pro- 
moting this end; while most officers have resources within themselves, of 
which scarcely any situation or circumstances can divest them. What with 
reading, writing, making and calculating observations, observing the various 
natural phenomena, and taking the exercise necessary to preserve our 
health, nobody I believe ever felt any symptoms of ennui during our conti- 
nuance in winter quarters. 

Among the recreations which afforded the highest gratification to several 
among us, I may mention the musical parties we were enabled to muster, 
and which assembled on stated evenings throughout the winter, alternately 
in Captain Lyon’s cabin and my own. More skilful amateurs in music might 
well have smiled at these our humble concerts ; but it will not incline them 
to think less of the science they admire to be assured that, in these remote 
and desolate regions of the globe, it has often furnished us with the most 
pleasurable sensations which our situation was capable of affording: for 
independently of the mere gratification afforded to the ear by music, there 
is perhaps scarcely a person in the world really fond of it, in whose mind 
its sound is not more or less connected with ‘“ his far-distant home.” There 
are always sonie remembrances which render them inseparable, and those 
associations are not to be despised which, while we are engaged in the per- 
formance of our duty, can still occasionally transport us into the social circle 
of our friends at home, in spite of the oceans that roll between us. 

With our time thus occupied, our comforts so abundant, and the prospect 
to sea-ward so enlivening, it would indeed have been our own faults, had 
we felt any thing but enjoyment in our present state, and the most lively 
hopes and expectations for the future. 


ABSTRACT of the METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL kept on board His Majesty’s Ship 
Fury, at Winter Island, during the Month of December, 1821. 


Fahrenheit’s Ther- 
mometer. 


Prevailing 
Barometer. Winds. Prevailing 


Maxi- | Mini- Weather, 


mum. | mum. Direction. Velocity. 


Mean Tem 
rature of 
Lower Deck 


a) -19 17.54 . 29, 1 A NNW light fine and clear 
NNW modt, fine and clear 
NW modt, fine and clear 
NW modt. fine and clear 
light fine 
fresh cloudy 
light cloudy 
light fine 
light fine 


oe nt on mB & WD =m 


modt. 
light 
light 
light 
light 
fresh ; cloudy 
modt. cloudy and drift 
fresh cloudy 
light fine 
From cae cloudy 
light fine 
fresh cloudy 
light , 
light cloudy 
modt. cloudy 
SSW fresh cloudy with drift 
SE fresh cloudy with drift 
NNE light 
North modt. 


a.m. tg 
0,06,90,103}¢.m TN { 


cloudy and snow 


+ 
weep ocom wm ananwmaaa oe 


modt. 
light 


modt, 


1822. 
January. 
ww 


Tues. 1. 


Wed. 2. 


150 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


CHAPTER VII. 


MANY FOXES CAUGHT—CONTINUED OPEN WATER IN THE OFFING—PARTIAL DISRUP- 
TION OF THE ICE IN THE BAY—METEOROLOGICAL PHENOMENA AND TEMPERATURE 
OF ANIMALS—ARRIVAL OF A TRIBE OF ESQUIMAUX—FIRST MEETING AND SUBSE- 
QUENT INTERCOURSE WITH THEM—ESQUIMAUX IN WANT OF PROVISIONS—SUPPLIED 
WITH BREAD-DUST—SOME ACCOUNT OF A SEALING EXCURSION WITH THEM—FRESH 
DISRUPTION OF THE ICE IN THE BAY—CLOSING OF THE WINTER THEATRE—ME- 
TEOROLOGICAL PHENOMENA TILL THE END OF FEBRUARY 1822. 


Tue first day of the new year was avery severe one in the open air, the 
thermometer being down to — 22°, and the wind blowing strong from the 
north-west. The effect of a breeze upon the feelings is well known to every 
person, even in comparatively temperate climates, but at low temperatures 
it becomes painful and almost insupportable. Thus, with the thermometer 
at — 55°, and no wind stirring, the hands may remain uncovered for ten 
minutes or a quarter of an hour without inconvenience ; while with a fresh 
breeze and the thermometer nearly as high as zero, few people can keep 
them exposed so long without considerable pain. <A high wind also had 
great effect in occasioning a general decrease of temperature in most parts 
of the ships, not by its gaining admission into the inhabited apartments, but 
by favouring the rapid abstraction of heat from without: 

About noon on the 2d, Captain Lyon observed a considerable body of 
snow taken up by the wind and whirled round in a spiral form like that of 
a water-spout, though with us the breeze was quite light at the time. It 
increased gradually in size till lost behind the south-east point. As a proof 
of the difficulty which the hares must find in obtaining subsistence during 
the winter, these animals were at this time in the habit of coming alongside 
the ships upon the ice to pick up what they could from our rubbish heaps. 
A fox or two still entered the traps occasionally, and our gentlemen in- 
formed me that they had always been most successful in catching them after 


RES 


ite 


Lis 
We 


Pee 


i 


£33 
cia 
3 


- 
Bi Be 


abe See 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 151 


a southerly wind, which they attributed with great probability to the smell 
of the ships being thus more extensively communicated over the island. 
One or two of these poor creatures had been found in the traps with their 
tongues almost bitten in two. The traps made use of for catching these beau- 
tiful little animals were formed of a small cask, having a sliding door like 
that of a common mouse-trap, and were baited with oiled meat or blubber. 
The whole number caught during the winter was between eighty and ninety, 
of which more than seventy were taken before the end of December. Ina 
single trap of Captain Lyon's, no less than fifteen were caught in the course 
of four hours, on the night of the 25th of November; and the people en- 
gaged in watching the trap remarked that no sooner had one of these ani- 
mals been taken out, and they themselves: retired a few yards, than ano- 
ther entered it. So stupid indeed are they in this respect that, in seve- 
ral instances, those which ‘had escaped’from the ships ngieiaieis and were 
re-caught in the same traps as before. 

Of a great number of foxes weighed by Captain Lyon during the winter, 
the average weight was eight pounds, but they varied from nine and a half 
to seven, and he observed that the males, though larger than the females, 
were not so fat. The fur of the whole of them when first caught was of 
the purest white, except in two or three individuals of a bluish colour, 
which appeared to be of a different species. The great variety of dis- 
positions displayed by those which were kept for taming was very re- 
markable, some being gentle and quiet from the time of their first coming 
on board, and others remaining wild and intractable in spite of every 
kindness and ‘good treatment. Our dogs became familiar enough even to 
play with them; but the foxes were, on their part, never entirely free from 
apprehension on:this account. The noise they make: when irritated is a 
weak half-stifled sort of bark, but they have also a more shrill and piercing 
cry when much frightened. When placed with their houses upon the ice, 
they were constantly endeavouring to burrow in the snow within the circle 
of their chains, and one of them, where the snow lay deeper than usual, 
soon formed for himself a secure and sheltered apartment under it. When 
deprived of the means of doing this, they are far from being proof against 
the severity of the season, for two or three died on board the Fury éntirely 
from this cause, though furnished with good kennel». Of those which were 
taken better care of, not one remained on board alive when we went to 
sea, the greater part having gradually wasted away, though well fed and 


1822. 
anuary. 
aryw 


1822. 
January. 


wv shore. 


Sat. 5. 


Sat. 12. 


Sun. 13. 


152 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


housed ; and the rest which were thriving better made their escape to the 

We had hitherto found the thermometer on board stand from two to five 
degrees higher than that on the ice, owing to the warm atmosphere created 
by the fires. On the 5th at noon, however, the difference amounted to 9°, 
that on board standing at — 22°, when the other indicated a temperature of 
— 31°. We did not know to what cause to attribute this, but two or three 
degrees may fairly be deducted on this account from the mean temperatures 
given in the Meteorological Abstract throughout the winter. 

Some port-wine, which was stowed in bins in the slop-room, having a 
week or two before been found partially frozen, a further examination took 
place on the 12th, when two or three bottles were found broken, and the 
wine entirely frozen in thin lamina not unlike the plates of white mica, 
and from one-eighth to two-eighths of an inch in thickness. White wine was 
frozen into one mass, retaining its colour and translucency, and assuming 
the appearance of very clear amber. The circumstance of our never having 
met with so much loss in this way, in the course of a much more severe 
winter at Melville Island, induced us to examine into the cause ; when we 
found it arose from a different stowage of the wine, which in the present 
instance had been allowed to come in contact with the ship’s side, but had 
before been a foot or two removed from it. 

On the 13th we were no less surprised than gratified to see almost as 

-much open water to the south-east and north-east of the island, as we had 
ever yet observed. It was covered indeed with a very thin coating of 
young ice, but a cloud of frost-smoke rose freely from it, which is never 
the case many hours after its formation. A floe of young ice, on which 
some of the officers had walked a day or two before to a considerable dis- 
tance from the shore, having now disappeared, I considered it prudent to 
direct, in addition to the general precautionary orders, that no person 
should in future venture outside of the grounded masses in the bay. 


Mon. 14, An ermine, of which the tracks had been traced the preceding day up 


the Hecla’s stern, and even on board her, Captain Lyon to-day succeeded 
in catching in a trap. This beautiful creature was entirely white, ex- 
cept a black brush to its tail, and a slight tinge of the usual sulphur or 
straw colour on the root of the tail, and alse on the fore part of the fore- 
legs. The little animal being put into a convenient cage seemed soon to 
feel himself perfectly at home, eating, drinking, and sleeping without any 


@ 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 153 


apparent apprehension, but evincing a very decided determination to resent Peis 
a too near approach to the wires of his new habitation. ravi) 


There was to-day a very thick deposit of snow almost constantly occur- 
ring, though the weather might very well be called clear. The winter at- 
mosphere of these regions is indeed seldom or never free from it, as may 
readily be seen by placing an instrument in the open air for an hour or 
two; that of to-day only differed from the usual deposit in the degrce in 
which it took place. At one P.M. a thermometer on the north side of the 
post on the ice stood at — 32°, and the other, exposed to the sun’s rays on 
the south side, only indicated a temperature one degree higher. 

There was to-day a great deal of terrestrial refraction, the ice and land 
to the westward being thrown up by it into a thousand fantastic and ever 
varying shapes. The thermometer was —31°, and the barometer at 29.73 
inches, under which conditions of the atmosphere the smoke was observed 
to ascend quite freely from the stove-pipes. At one P.M. the snow upon 
the black paint-work of the stern, which was exposed directly to the sun’s 
rays, was falling off in little pieces and leaving a wet mark behind it. 
This circumstance recalled to our recollection the anxious impatience with 
which, at Melville Island, we were watching for this symptom of returning 
warmth, four or five months later than this. 


At thirty minutes past one on the 18th, the thermometer on the north Frid. 18. 


side of the post stood at —37°, while another with its bulb coated with 
black rose to —26°, when exposed to the sun’s rays on the south side. 

At a late hour this evening the stove-pipe of my cabin caught fire, which 
gave us cause for a momentary alarm, but buckets and water being at hand 
it was soon extinguished. This accident was occasioned by a quantity of 
soot collected in the stove-pipe, and yet was not altogether to be attributed 
to neglect in the persons appointed to sweep the whole of them twice a 
week. As the cause of it is such as is not likely to be anticipated by per- 
sons living in temperate climates, and as the knowledge of it may be ser- 
viceable to somebody destined for a cold one, I shall here explain it. The 
smoke of coals contains a certain quantity of water in the state of vapour. 
This in temperate climates, and indeed till the thermometer falls to about 
10° degrees below zero, is carried up the chimney and principally dif- 
fused in the atmosphere. When the cold becomes more intense however, 
this is no longer the case; for the vapour is then condensed into water 
before it can escape from the stove-pipes, within which a mass of ice is, in 

x 


154 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


ies _ consequence, very speedily formed*. The vapour thus arrested must ne- 

wr~ cessarily also detain a quantity of soot, which being subsequently en- 
closed in the ice as the latter accumulates, the brush generally used to 
clean the pipes cannot bring it away. By any occasional increase of tem- 
perature, either in the external air or in the fire below, the ice sometimes 
thaws, pouring down a stream of water into the fire and bringing with 
it a most pungent and oppressive smell of soot. For these reasons, as well 
as to avoid accidents of the nature above alluded to, it is necessary to 
sweep the pipes much more frequently than in warmer climates, and even 
occasionally to thaw the ice out of them by a fire made expressly for the 
purpose. 

The thermometer, which had fallen to —38° the preceding night, stood at 

Sun. 20. — 40° at nine A.M. on the 20th, being, as it afterwards proved, the lowest 
temperature we were destined to experience for this winter. The thermo- 
meter rose to — 36° at noon, and was ten degrees higher when exposed to 
the sun’s rays, the weather being fine and clear and the wind very light. 

Tues. 22. The 22d was a very severe day in the open air, in consequence of a fresh 
wind blowing, which also occasioned the temperature of the Fury’s lower 
deck to fall for the first time, thongh only for an hour, to 48°. The incon- 
venience of a cold night was felt in a greater degree, however, by the 
officers who, notwithstanding a most uncomfortable and even painful tem- 
perature for stage-dresses, persevered in amusing the men by the theatrical 
performances that had been fixed for this evening, and accordingly produced 
the two farces of ‘“ Raising the Wind” and “The Sleep-walker,” to the 
infinite gratification of their audience. 

About this time we were surprised to find that one of the Hecla’s anchors 
on shore had come home, in consequence of the cable becoming more tight 
from the ship. This was perhaps occasioned by the ice, which was detached 
from the shore every tide, receiving, in the manner before described with 
the grounded masses, a certain daily though small addition, by which means 
it had imperceptibly receded, taking the ships with it. It was necessary 
therefore in future, to keep the cables more slack, to avoid disturbing or 

Frid. 25. injuring the anchors. On the 25th, being about the time of the highest 


* When the weather was not very severely cold, and a part of the vapour escaped from 
the pipe of the galley-fire, the fore-rigging was always coated with ice, from the smoke 
passing by it. 


sy a a Ry map Ni et 


svete cuted 


sic 
ia 


PD EO Ni SY Nic ge arses 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE, | 155 


spring-tide, we began to think that the ice might one day remove us rather tae 
more forcibly than by the slow process just related, for we found at day- uW~ 
light, to our great surprise, that a portion of the floe belonging to the bay, 

and which we had considered as quite fixed for the winter, had now been 
broken off and removed, leaving the clear water within four or five hundred 

yards of our sterns. A cloud of frost-smoke was issuing from it, and a flock 

of dovekies swimming about in it. 

On the 26th, we flew a kite to the height of three hundred and seventy- Sat. 26. 
nine feet, (as obtained by geometrical measurement,) with a Six’s register- 
thermometer attached to it. This after it had been up a quarter of an hour 
indicated a minimum of —232°, the temperature upon the ice, by the same 
thermometer tried before and after being —24}°. 

Mr. Pulfer the carpenter of the Hecla in taking a walk round the S.E. 
point, on the 27th, was somewhat startled at suddenly observing a large Sun. 27. 
bear at no great distance from him, and prudently retreated to the ships 
before Bruin saw him. It is commonly believed by the Greenland sailors, 
who have certainly the best opportunities of judging, that these animals are 
not generally disposed to retreat from one man, though they invariably fly 
from a party. 

On the 29th there was a fresh breeze from the N.W., which on the fol- Tues. 29. 
lowing day increased to a gale more to the westward. In this instance the Wed.30. 
thermometer seemed to rise with the wind, namely, from —26° in the morn- 
ing to —18° at midnight. The thermometer fell again on the 3lst, at the Thur. 31. 
same time with the wind; but these two phenomena did not often appear 
to have the. same connexion as at Melville Island. The month of January 
closed with cold though rather overcast weather, and we thought we had 
escaped very favourably with a mean temperature of —22° 96’. 

The appearances of the Aurora Borealis during January were generally 
more distinguished for their frequency than their brilliancy, or for any ex- 
traordinary forms which this phenomenon presented. Towards mi .night, 
on the 13th, the weather being clear, it appeared in a very bright arch from 
south to N.E., being 10° to 15° higher in the centre. It afterwards assumed 
a wavy or serpentine form, which constantly varied, and smaller streams of 
light seemed to be continually meeting the larger, from near the zenith. 
From midnight till two A.M. on the 24th, it continued very bright and 
generally extended from east, where it was most brilliant, to W.N.W. The 
following evening, an arch of the Aurora assumed the most perfect 
X 2 


1822. 
January. 
ww 


156 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


bridge-like form I ever saw. It extended from S.E. to N.W., on the south- 
ern side of the heavens, both its edges being well defined, which is very 
rarely the case. At seven A.M. on the following morning, it appeared again 
in a form still more novel, three complete arches being now visible’; the 
middle one, which was the brightest, passing through the zenith and the 
others, which were in the centre about 20° distant from it on each side, gra- 
dually closing till they joined it at the east and west points of the horizon. 
It was impossible not to be struck with the general resemblance in the form 
of this phenomenon to that I have frequently mentioned, as assumed by the 
clouds in the polar regions at particular seasons*: this coincidence may 
possibly serve to throw some light on the nature and peculiarities of the 
Aurora. For several hours on the same night, this meteor formed a tole- 
rably well-defined arch from E.S.E. to W.N.W., being 6° high in the 
centre, reaching from one horizon to the other, and confined entirely to the 
southern side of the heavens. Early on the morning of the 16th, it was seen 
for an hour and a quarter much in the same situation, and on the following 
evening it appeared faintly in almost every part of the heavens. 

From eleven P.M. till past midnight, on the 18th, it once more appeared 
very bright from W. to S.E., having at times a very rapid and_ irregular 
motion. Whenever the light was most concentrated it was also the brightest, 
and almost always, in that case, we observed it assume an arch-like form in the 
southern part of the heavens. This was particularly the case on the evening 
of the 19th, when there appeared two concentric though not altogether con- 
tinuous arches, extending from S.E.b.E. to W.S.W., the highest being 8° to 
10° above the horizon, but in this respect at times slowly varying. At eleven 
P.M., after thus remaining without any very remarkable alteration for above two 
hours, it suddenly became extremely variable, shifting its place laterally with 
a prodigiously rapid motion, but still keeping within the general limits above 
mentioned, both in bearing and altitude. In this lateral motion, which was 
somewhat of the kind I have endeavoured to describe on the 14th of Decem- 
ber, it seemed, as it were, to roll over from one end of the arch to the other, 
while at the same time numberless lighter and less brilliant coruscations were 
emitted from its upper margin. Whenever the phenomenon occupied the 
smallest space in the heavens, the light was invariably the most intense, and 
often when several sheets of it appeared to unite, in the manner before 


* Account of the Voyage of 1819-20, pp. 141, 144, 164. 


= 


= 


SRG Sie} 


ea 


ee ape paint ets 


im 


eater tee a Ee Lae Fal eee) ee 
SE SSSI AS SE RE eat ORI aes FI EN a MBs 


ps 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 157 


explained, the lilac tint was quite vivid ; in general, its colour was yellowish. J 
Stars of the second magnitude were almost obscured by it. 

Towards the end of January, this phenomenon appeared frequently in the 
S.E. and E.S.E., but it was generally faint, and unmarked by any peculiarity 
requiring farther notice. The electrometer was frequently applied to the 
mast-head chain, and the magnetic needle constantly watched during all 
these appearances, but neither of these was on any one occasion sensibly 
affected. The only other meteorological phenomena that need be noticed 
about this period were one or two instances of parhelia and paraselene, 
sometimes tinged with the prismatic tints, and sometimes colourless, but 
always situated at the angular distance of about 224° on each side of the sun 
and moon, and usually upon halos, more or less distinct and perfect. 

A sheet of young ice was several times formed and dislodged by the tides 
within the points of our bay but ; the water continued open to the south-east- 
ward with every northerly or westerly wind, and numerous dovekies were 
swimming about near the shore: neither did the land animals altogether 
desert us, a few foxes being still occasionally caught in traps, and one or two 
hares killed while literally feeding alongside the ships on our rubbish heaps. 

The following temperatures of animals just after death were principally 
taken by Captain Lyon, to whom I am indebted for them :— 


Temperature of 


The Animal, The Atmosphere. 
Nov. 15,1821. . An Arctic fox . 1063 . =t4 
Dec. 3, __,, , Ditto - lol}. ‘ — 5 
a Pe ‘ Ditto .- 100 . ; — 3 
9 TT) ‘ Ditto . lols. . —21 
» «18, yy ‘ Ditto . 992, . —15 
» Wt ; Diito . 98 ‘ ; -10 
» 19, »  - Ditto » 992 , . Id 
Jan. 3,1822. . Ditto - 1064 «tt —23 
a Or 4 . Awhite hare . 101 . ° —21 
» 10, 4, « An Arctic fox . 100 . ° —15 
» 1% a . Ditto . 106 ‘ ° —32 
99 94 ye Ditto . 108 «x . 27 
er a ae Ditto - 108 « 6 87 
-— «woe Ditto - 108. s —25 
0° 2% le Ditto - 101 e -% —32 


Feb. 2, » © A Wolf » 10 . = . —27 


1822, 


anuary. 
Ly ad 


ABSTRACT of the METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL kept on board His Majesty’s Ship 
Fury, at Winter Island, during the Month of January, 1822. 


e- 
f 


Lower Deck. 


Fahrenheit’s 
Thermometer. 


Prevailing Res 
Barometer. Winds. Prevailing 


rature o 


Maxi- | Min‘- 
mum, | mum, 


Mean Tem 


Weather. 
Maxi- | Mini- 
mum. | mum. | Mean. Direction. Velocity. 
— deepen 


inches | inches | inches 


-16 |=22 |-19.70)) GP.o0 |f 29.02 | 29.55 laussus| NW fresh fine 

18 08} 57.33 || 29.69 | 29.57 129.617|| NNW modt, clear 

17 59.22 || 29.75 | 29.66 |20.723 NE light cloudy 

11 15.75), 60. 5 || 29.69 | 29,45 |20. NW modt, hazy and snow 

19 22.50] 59.66 || 29.72 | 29.70 |a9, NW light fine 

17 19.04)) 55. 5 |] 29.84 | 29.76 ]29. 80: West modt, hazy 

13 18.46)! 59.75 || 29.70 | 29.69 |29, WNW modt. cloudy 

17 19.33] 58. 5 || 29.99 | 29.66 ]29. WNW strong cloudy 

18 20.04]| 54.66 |} 30.01 | 29.78 |29, NNW light fine 

7 9.42]| 60.33 |] 29.70 | 20.47 |29, East light cloudy 

6 11.29]] 60.00 || 29.76 |,29.47 |20, East modt, hazy 

16 19.96)) 60. 5 |] 29.88 | 29.80 NW fresh cloudy 
22.67]| 59. 6 || 29.80 | 29.72 j29, North light clear 
23.75]! 67.38 || 29.85 | 20.80 North light clear 
22.25]! 63.25 |] 29.84 | 29.70 Igo, NW light fine and clear 
20.29), 60.25 |] 29.70 | 29.64 [20, WNW light fine and clear 
18.62] 58.75 | 29.69 | 29.63 |29.652]] North light cloudy 
28.46) 60.00 | 20.74 | 29.70 (20,713) NNW . light fine and clear 
0.0) 68.25 | 20.95 | 29.75 j20.865]] West light | fine and clear 

33.00) 58.25 | 30.12 | 29.94 [30,035 NW light fine and clear 

33.29! 64.00 | 30.17 | 80.12 [30,137] NW modt, clear 

28.33] 53,25 | 30.13 | 30.09 [30,110 NW fresh hazy 

30.71] 51.25 | 80.26 | 30,13 /30.205]] NNW modt, clear 

21.02 60.00. 30,26 | 20.87 [30.118]] NNW light cloudy 

29.54 57.00 || 20.70 | 20.48 129.577! E, to N, fresh cloudy and snow 

26.46) 64.00 |] 20.51 | 20.42 so 000 NNW fresh clear 

82.79) 52. 6 || 29.73 | 20,52 120.020] NW modt, 

81,00), 52.00 || 29,87 | 99.73 a0. 4os! NNW light 

80.58)| 62.00 |] 20,98 | 20.89 129,922] WNW fresh 

18.67], 62.66 | 80,03 | 30.00 30,022] West | fom light 


to fresh 


| 
18.25)) 65.00 3°,02 | 20.04 |20,080) = WNW ight 


—- 


LS Sg Ss 


—874 [enos 66.84 | 30,26 | 20,42 [29,794, 


SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY. 159 


On the morning of the Ist of February it was reported to me that a num- 
ber of strange people were seen to the westward, coming towards the ships 
over the ice. On directing a glass towards them we found them to be Esqui- 
maux, and also discovered some appearance of huts on shore, at the dis- 
tance of two miles from the ships, in the same direction. I immediately set 
out, accompanied by Captain Lyon, an officer from each ship, and two of 
the men, to meet the natives who, to the number of five-and-twenty, were 
drawn up ina line abreast and still advanced slowly towards us. As we ap- 
proached nearer they stood still, remaining as before in a compact line, from 
which they did not move for some time after we reached them. Nothing could 
exceed their quiet and orderly behaviour on this occasion, which presented 
a very striking contrast with the noisy demeanour of the natives of Hudson’s 
Strait. They appeared at a distance to have arms in their hands, but what 
we had taken for bows or spears proved to be only a few blades of whalebone 
which they had brought, either as a peace-offering, or for barter, and which 
we immediately purchased for a few small nails and beads. Some of the 
women, of whom there were three or four, as well as two children, in this 
party, having handsome clothes on which attracted our attention, they 
began to our utier astonishment and consternation to strip, though the ther- 
mometer stood at 23° below zero. We soon found however that there was 
nothing so dreadful in this as we at first imagined, every individual among 
them having on a complete double suit. The whole were of deer-skin and 
looked both clean and comfortable. 

However quietly the Esquimaux had awaited our approach and sti!] con- 
tinued to conduct themselves, there was as little apprehension or distrust 
visible in their countenances or manner as it was possible for one strange set 
of persons to evince on meeting another. As soon, therefore, as we had 
bought all that they had to sell, and made them a number of valuable pre- 
sents, we expressed by signs our wish to accompany them to their huts, with 
which they willingly complied, and we immediately set out together. On 
our way the Esquimaux were much amused by our dogs, especially by a large 
one of the Newfoundland breed, that had been taught to fetch and carry—a 
qualification which seemed to excite unbounded astonishment ; and the chil- 
dren could scarce contain themselves for joy, when Captain Lyon gave them 
a stick to throw for the dog to bring back to them. A child of five or six 
years old, thus amusing itself on such a day and in such a climate, formed by no 
means the least characteristic figure of our motley group. An old and infirm 


1822. 


February 


PY 


Bt ee ce, 
= _ 


snate:auiienesiens aa ee 


=a 


1822 


February 


160 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


man, supported by a stick which indeed he much needed, was soon left behind 


\r~ us, his companions seeming to take no notice of his infirmities, and.leaving 


him without reluctance or apology to find his way home at his own pace. 
When we had approached the huts within a few hundred yards, three of the Es- 
quimaux went on before us, having previously explained that they were going to 
confine their dogs, test being frightened at our coming they should run away. 

When it is remembered that these habitations were fully within sight of the 
ships, and how many eyes were continually on the look out among us for any 
thing that could afford variety or interest in our present situation, our sur- 
prise may in some degree be imagined at finding an establishment of five 
huts, with canoes, sledges, dogs, and above sixty men, women, and chil- 
dren, as regularly and, to all appearance as permanently fixed, as if they 
had occupied the same spot for the whole winter. If the first view of the 
exterior of this little village was such as to create astonishment, that feeling 
was in no small degree heightened, on accepting the invitation soon given us, 
to enter these extraordinary houses, in the construction of which we observed 
that not a single material was used but snow and ice. After creeping through 
two low passages, having each its arched door-way, we came to a small cir- 
cular apartment of which the roof was a perfect arched dome. From this 
three door-ways, also arched and of larger dimensions than the outer ones, 
led into as many inhabited apartments, one on each side, and the other facing 
us as we entered. The interior of these presented a scene no less novel 
than interesting. The women were seated on the beds at the sides of the 
huts, each having her little fire-place or lamp, with all her domestic utensils 
about her; the children crept behind their mothers, and the dogs, except the 
female ones, which were indulged with a part of the beds, slink out past us 
in dismay. The construction of this inhabited part of the huts was similar 
to that of the outer apartment, being a dome formed by separate blocks of 
snow, laid with great regularity and no small art, each being cut into the 
shape requisite to form a substantial arch, from seven to eight feet high in 
the centre, and having no support whatever but what this principle of build- 
ing supplied. I shall not here further describe the peculiarities of these 
curious edifices, remarking only that a cheerful and sufficient light was 
admitted to them by a circular window of ice neatly fitted into the roof of 
each apartment. 

We found our new acquaintance as desirous of pleasing us, as we were 
ready to be pleased; so that we were soon on good terms with them all. 


lof the 
ensils 
pt the 
bast us 
bimilar 
cks of 
o the 
igh in 
build- 
these 
t was 
oof of 


were 


m ail. 


Ai 


REO 


" 
hs 


th 


AEN 


4 


2 


eft ie 


—4 
oot 
ae 
®& 
> 
4 
“7 
a 
a 


OF A NCRTH-WEST PASSAGE. 161 


While we were engaged in examining every part of their huts, their whole _ 1822. 
behaviour was in the highest degree orderly, respectful and good-humoured. =~ 


They eagerly received the various articles that were given them, either in ex- 
change for their own commodities, or as presents, but on no occasion impor- 
tuned us for any thing, nor did the well-known sound of “ pilletay ” once 
escape from them. We had also great reason to believe that these people 
possessed, in no ordinary degree, the quality of honesty, a quality the more 
desirable to us, as we had on shore, besides the house and observatory, all 
our boats and other articles, which, had they been disposed to pilfer, it 
would have required all our vigilance to guard. If we dropped a glove or 
a handkerchief without knowing it, they would immediately direct our at- 
tention to it by pointing, and if the owner had left the hut before they disco- 
vered it, would run out after him to return it. Numberless instances of a 
similar kind occurred in the course of our subsequent communication with 
them, some of which I shall hereafter have an opportunity of relating. 

After remaining with them a couple of hours, and proposing to spend the 
following day amongst them, we set out on our return to the ships. Being 
desirous of trying their disposition to part with their children, I proposed to 
buy afinelad, named Toolooak, for the very valuable consideration of ahandsome 
butcher’s knife. His father, apparently understanding our meaning, joyfully 
accepted the knife, and the boy ran into the hut to fetch his mittens, which 
seemed to be all that he cared for in leavinghis home. He then set off with us 
in high spirits, and at first assisted in drawing a sledge we had purchased to 
carry our things; but as he began, by our additional signs, more clearly to. 
comprehend our true meaning, he gradually relaxed in his zeal to accompany 
our party, and being afterwards overtaken by a number of his companions, 
he took an opportunity to slink off among some hummocks of ice, so that 
when we arrived on board Toolooak was missing. 

On our reaching the ships, these people expressed much less surprise and 
curiosity than might naturally have been expected on their first visit, which 
may, perhaps, in some measure be attributed to their being in reality a less 
noisy kind of people than most of the Esquimaux to whom we had before 
been accustomed. Quict and orderly, however, as they were disposed to be, 
this first visit shewed them to be as fond of merriment as their countrymen 
are usually considered ; for, on Captain Lyon’s ordering his fiddler up on the 
Hecla’s deck, they danced with the men for an hour, and then returned in 


high glee and good humour to their huts. 
¥ 


Se 


1822. 


February 


162 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


On our return on board we were informed that, during our absence in the 


wr~s morning, a flock of thirteen wolves, the first yet seen, crossed the ice in 


the bay, from the direction of the huts and passed near the ships. These 
animals, as we afterwards learned, had accompanied or closely followed the 
Esquimaux on their journey to the island the preceding day; and-they proved 
to us the most troublesome part of their suite. They so much resemble the 
Esquimaux dogs that, had it not been for some doubt among the officers who: 
had seen them whether they were so or not, and the consequent fear of doing 
these poor people an irreparable injury, we might have killed most of them 
the same evening, for they came boldly to look for food within a few yards 
of the Fury, and remained there for some time. 

Ix order to prevent our people from occasioning the Esquimaux any dis- 
turbance or apprehension, I directed that only six from each ship should be 
allowed to visit the huts at one time, and that they should then be always 
accompanied by an officer. A strict prohibition was, at the same time, issued 
against the smallest article of the ships’ stores being given to the people 
without permission, on pain of severe punishment. 

At an early hour on the 2d, we set out with a large party on our proposed 
excursion to the huts. The natives received us with great cordiality though 
with somewhat more noisy expressions of pleasure than before ; and we soon 
began a more minute examination of their habitations and furniture in which 
they readily assisted us, except that they always sat very closely on the deer- 
skins which composed their beds, under which were stowed such articles as 
they were least willing or able to dispose of. They sold however a great 
number of their things without reluctance; and it was indeed astonishing to 
see with what eagerness they would, for the mere sake of change and variety, 
barter some of their most indispensable articles for the veriest trifles in our 
possession. For instance, a single sewing-needle, of which they possessed 
abundance not much inferior to our own, procured from them a large well- 
sharpened panna*, or man’s knife made of stout iron, for which in point of 
absolute utility a hundred needles would not have been a fair equivalent. 
Various other instances of the same kind occurred by which indeed they were 
not ultimately losers, though they certainly would have been so had our inter- 
course ended here. 


* For anexplanation of the mode of accenting the Esquimaux words used in the course of 
this Journal, I must refer to the remarks immediately preceding the vocabulary at the end of 
the last chapter. 


i le = 
a Sa ae: ee 


A Somes 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 163 


We dined in the huts, and the Esquimaux gladly partook of our biscuit and 
meat, and even of a little wine which however they did not relish. We 
returned on board about sunset, much gratified with the interesting day we 
had passed; having laid the foundation of that perfect confidence and 
good understanding which, with little or no interruption, afterwards subsisted 
between us and our new acquaintance. 

On the morning of the 3d, a number of these people were observed to set 
off over the ice to the south-west to bring, as we conjectured, either some more 
of their people or of their property from their last place of abode. On walk- 
ing out to the huts after divine service, however, we found they had been 
seal-catching and had succeeded in taking four. The very small quantity 
of food which they had in their huts at first coming, consisting of a little veni- 
son and the flesh and blubber of the whale and seal, induced us to suppose 
they had left some of their provision behind, and that they would return for 
it as occasion demanded, But we now found that, even at this rigorous sea- 
son, they were entirely dependent in this way on their daily exertions ; and 
that they had only removed into their present quarters on account of the 
failure of their summer’s store, and of the greater facility of obtaining seals 
at Winter Island than where the sea was more closely and continually frozen. 

On the 4th‘a number of Esquimaux came to the ships and we took the op- 
portunity of getting them to go through the process of building a snow-hut 
for our amusement and information. From the quickness with which they 
completed this, our surprise at the sudden appearance of their village ceased ; 
as we now saw that two or three hours would be more than sufficient to 
have completed the whole establishment just as we at first found it. They 
were then taken on board and derived great amusement from our organ, and 
from any thing in the shape of music, singing, or dancing, of all which they 
are remarkably fond. Nor can I here omit a striking instance of the honesty 
of these people which occurred to-day, Some of the gentlemen of the Hecla 
had purchased two of their dogs, which had the preceding evening made their 
escape and returned to the huts. After the departure of the Esquimaux to- 
day, we were surprised to find that they had left two dogs carefully tied up on 
board the Fury, which on inquiry proved to be the animals in question, and 
which had been thus faithfully restored to their rightful owners. 

On the 5th a number of the natives came on board according to promise 
to rebuild the hut in amore substantial manner, and to put a plate of ice into 
the roof as a window, which they did with great quickness as well as care, 
Y¥2 


1822. 
February 
we 


Sun, 3. 


Mon, 4. 


ues, 5, 


SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


164 


Febrday several of the women cheerfully assisting in the labour. The men seemed 


\“"~ to take no small pride in shewing in how expeditious and workman-like a 
manner they could perform this; and the hut with its vuter passage was soon 
completed. From this time they were in the constant habit of coming freely 
to the ships; and such as it was not always convenient to admit, usually found 
very profitable employment in examining the heaps of ashes, sand, and other 
rubbish on the outside, where their trouble was well repaid by picking up 
small scraps of tin or iron. All that they found in this manner we allowed 
them to consider their lawful property ; but were very particular in preventing 
their handling any thing on board without permission. 

The wolves had now begun to do us some damage ; for not even the sails 
that were fastened round the house and observatory could escape their 
ravenous fangs, and they had thus in the course of a single night much in- 
jured two of our studding-sails. We set traps for them on the ice ; and also 
large shark-hooks secured with chains and baited with meat ; but the former 
they entered and destroyed, and the latter were always found broken or bent, 
without securing the depredators. These animals were indeed so hungry 
and fearless as to take away some of the Esquimaux dogs in a snow-house 
near the Hecla’s stern, though the men were at the time within afew yards of 
them. 

From the circumstance of Captain Lyon and myself having accidentally 
gone into different huts on our first visits to the village, (for with this name 
I believe we must venture to dignify the united abodes of more than sixty 
human beings,) particular individuals among the Esquimaux had already 
in a manner attached themselves to each of us. Captain Lyon now in- 
formed me that one of his acquaintance, a remarkably fine and intelligent 
young man named Ayoket, had given him to understand that he had some- 
where or other seen Kabloona* people like ourselves only a few months ago. 
This being the case there seemed no reason why, if it were made worth his 
while, he should not be able to see them again in the course of next summer. 
Anxious to profit by this unexpected mode of communication, I requested 
Captain Lyon to endeavour to direct Ayoket’s attention to the scheme of 
conveying a letter from us to the persons of whom he spoke. 

Thurs. 7, On the 7thT paid another visit to the huts, where I found scarcely any 
body but women and children, the whole of the men, with the exception of 
the two oldest, having gone on a sealing excursion to the north-eastern side 


* European, 


seo en a 


Pease 
A ieiecistegea her, 


apie 


“i aD ere ih a 


I a 


Se Ree GRMN EN SR 


Nave 


— 


RES See ee 


RG ORES EE GS 


eal aie os abt ie ac een 


2 RPE sane 


of the island. One of the women named Iliglius, a sister of the lad Toolooak, 
who favoured us with a song, struck us as having a remarkably soft voice, an 
excellent ear, and a great fondness for singing, for there was scarcely any 
stopping her when she had once begun. We had, on their first visit to the 
ships, remarked this trait in Iligliuk’s disposition, when she was listening for 
the first time to the sound of the organ, of which she seemed never to have 
enough ; and almost every day she now began to display some symptom of that 
superiority of understanding for which she was so remarkably distinguished. 
A few of the women learned several of our names to-day, and I believe all 
thought us Angekoks * of a very superior class, when we repeated to them 
all round, by the assistance of our books, the names of all their husbands 
obtained on board the preceding day. On our way back to the ships we 
saw a party of them, with their dogs, returning over the hill from the north- 
eastward ; and we afterwards met another of eight or ten who had walked 
round by the south-east point on the ice, all alike unsuccessful, after being 
out in the wind for six hours with the thermometer from eighteen to twenty- 
two degrees below zero. Thus hardly did these people obtain their daily 
subsistence at this severe season of the year ! 

A wolf being caught in one of the traps this evening which was so close as 
to be easily watched from the ship, a party of the officers ran out to secure 
the depredator, and fired two balls into the trap at once to despatch him. 
Finding after this that he continued to bite a sword that was thrust in, a third 
shot was fired at him. The trap was then sufficiently opened to get his hind 
legs firmly tied together, after which being considered tolerably secure he 
was pulled out of the trap, which, however, his head had scarcely cleared 
when he furiously flew at Mr. Richard’s throat, and would certainly have done 
him some serious mischief had not that gentleman, with great presence of 
mind, seized the animal in his turn by the throat, squeezing him with all his 
force between both hands. This made the wolf relinquish his first attempt, 
and Mr. Richards only suffered by a bite in his arm and another in his knee, 
which, on account of the thickness of his clothes, were happily not severe 
ones. As for the wolf he prudently took to his heels, though two of them 
were still tied together, and being favoured by the momentary confusion occa- 
sioned by his late rencontre with Mr. Richards, succeeded in escaping his pur- 


* Sorcerers, or wizards, pronounced as written above in Greenland ; but at Winter Island 
Afig-dt-kdok ; and by the people at Igloolik An-ndt-kd. 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 165 


ebruary 
wanw 


1822. 


1822. 
February 
wy 


Frid. 8. 


Sat. 9. 


166 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


suers. He was found dead the following day ai the distance of three-quarters 
of a mile from the ships. 

On the 8th we were visited by a musical party of females, consisting only of 

a few individuals expressly invited for this purpose. A number of the officers 
assembled in the cabin to hear this vocal concert, while Mr. Henderson and 
myself took down the notes of their songs, for which indeed they gave us 
every opportunity, for I thought they would never leave off. We afterwards 
amused them by our little band of flutes and violins, and also by some songs, 
with the whole of which they were extremely well pleased, I feared several of 
them, and especially Iligliuk, would have gone into fits with delight when we 
introduced into our song some of their names mingled with our own. While 
most of us were thus employed, Captain Lyon took the opportunity of making 
drawings of some of the women, especially of Togolat, the prettiest of the party, 
and perhaps of the whole village. She was about six and twenty years of age, 
with a face more oval than that of Esquimaux in general, very pretty eyes 
and mouth, teeth remarkably white and regular, and possessing in her carriage 
and manners a degree of natural gracefulness, which could not be hid even 
under the disguise of an Esquimaux woman’s dress, and, as was usual with 
Togolat, the dirtiest face of her whole tribe. Her husband Ewerat, a little 
ugly man of about five-and-forty, was the only individual among them laying 
claim to the title of Angetkook, and was in reality a sensible obliging man, 
and a first-rate seal-catcher. They had two children, one of which, a little 
girl, Togolat still occasionally suckled and, according to custom, carried in the 
hood behind her back ; the other a boy about eight years of age, quite an 
idiot, deaf and dumb from his birth, and squinting most horribly with both 
eyes. 

Finding that these poor creatures were now really in want of food, for the 
men had again returned from an unsuccessful excursion, I was happy to avail 
myself of a hint given to me by Captain Lyon to furnish them occasionally 
with a small supply of bread-dust, of which we had two or three casks in 
each ship. Our present party was therefore, in addition to other articles, 
supplied with several pounds, which they immediately expressed their in- 
tention to take home to their children. Several of them visited the ships as 
usual on the 9th, and among the rest Ka-oong-ut and his son Toolooak. The 
old gentleman was not a favourite with us, being the only one who had yet 
begun to tease us by constant begging. We had often expressed displeasure 

at this habit, which after a day or two's acquaintance began to be extremely 


TO nn ann SET eT ge Nene ee on ements - . — . 
ak ad Ie NRSV MMOS GEA Lees Oe TE Le PEER eT eee 


Se 


eae 


TT g tiers 


senetiik 


SERRE Eg Tae ec okie spatiee ye De! 


eyed 


+ igi Rewer 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 167 


troublesome ; but I had to-day to take cognizance of his stealing a nail, of which, 
though not a very serious offence, I determined to take rather a serious notice, 
as it might otherwise lead to more extensive theft. I therefore collected all 
the other Esquimaux who were on board, and having in their presence ex- 
pressed great indignatio., at this conduct, turned the offender away in disgrace, 
Some of those best acquainted with us were afterwards taken into the cabin, 
where our sentiments were more fully explained to them. Among these I was 
not sorry to have Toolooak and Iligliuk, who would not fail to report at the 
huts all our proceedings, but who did not appear to consider themselves in the 
slightest degree implicated in their father’s offence, or concerned in his dis- 
grace. The people of the huts being much in want of food, we again dis- 
tributed some bread-dust among them, taking care to send a portion to the infirm 
old man, Hik-kéi-érd, by Okdtook, the husband of Iligliuk, a fine active manly 
fellow of about two and thirty, who, as we were pleased to find the next 
day, had punctually executed his commission. 


1822. 


February 


On the 10th the mercury in the barometer, which had been gradually but Sun. 10. 


very slowly falling for several days preceding, had got down to 28.78 inches, 
which is here remarkably low. It continued so with very little variation for 
sixteen hours, and then rose much more quickly. The wind had during this 
interval remained constantly from the northward and westward, and generally 
moderate, with now and then some snow falling, but we could perceive no- 
thing in the weather that seemed to coincide with this unusual indication in 
the barometer. 

The Esquimaux went out to endeavour to catch seals as usual, but returned 
unsuccessful after several hours’ labour. As it was now evident that their 
own exertions were not at all times sufficient to procure them food at this 
season, and that neither indolence nor any idea of dependence on our charity 
induced them to relax in those exertions, it became incumbent on us care. 
fully to attend to their wants, and by a timely and judicious application of the 
slender resources we had set aside for their use, to prevent any absolute suf- 
fering among them. We therefore sent out a good meal of bread-dust for 
each individual, to be divided in due proportion among all the huts. The 
necessity of this supply appeared very strongly from the report of our people, 
who found some of these poor creatures actually gnawing a piece of hard 
seal-skin with the hair on it, while few of the huts had any lamp alight. It 
must be remembered that the failure of their seal-fishery always involves a 
double calamity, for it not only deprives them of food, but of fuel for their 


168 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


1822. lamps. When this is the case, not to mention the want of warmth and light in 

February A 3 

wr~ the huts, they are also destitute of the means of melting snow for water, and can 
therefore only quench their thirst by eating the snow, which is not only a com- 
fortless but an ineffectual resource. In consequence of this, it was surprising 
to see the quantity of water these people drank whenever they came on board ; 
and it was often with difficulty that our coppers could answer this additional 
demand. I am certain that Toolooak one day drank nearly a gallon in less 
than two hours. Besides the bread-dust, we also supplied them to-day with 
a wolf’s carcass which, raw and frozen as it was, they eat'with a good appe- 
tite; and indeed they had not the means of cooking or even thawing it. I 
cannot here omit a pleasing trait in their character, observed by our people 
who carried out their supplies ; not a morsel of which would the grown-up 
people touch till they had first supplied the wants of their hungry little ones. 

Mor. 11.. On the 11th, the weather was severely cold, the wind blowing fresh from 
the north-west, with the thermometer from — 26° to — 30°. Notwithstand- 
ing the severity of the day, a few of the Esquimaux came on board, and 

f among the rest Siokobeut who, on account of being the tallest and stoutest 

i man of the tribe, had. been distinguished by our people with the name of 
‘the Commodore.” He brought with him his son Toonék, a boy five or six 
years of age, who became a great favourite with us, and whose clean deer- 
skin clothes and ruddy face now gave him a very pretty and interesting ap- 
pearance. 

About this time we were grieved to find that our invalid, Reid, was once 
more attacked by his complaint, rendering such repeated bleedings necessary as 
to reduce him very low, and to convince Mr. Edwards that his lungs were not 
in a state to bear his returning strength. As if some fatality attended our 
carpenters, Mr. Fiddis had also, for some time past, been occasionally com- 
plaining of weakness, trembling, and sickness; but, except these two, we 
had not, for several weeks, had an individual in the sick-list. 

Tues. 12. On the morning ef the 12th Okotook and his uncle Arnaneelia, a sensible 
} and worthy man about five-and-forty years of age, coming on board from 
their fishing, we shewed them the stage and scenery that were just put up, 
and invited them and, their wives to the play about to be performed this 
evening. They accordingly went back and brought the women, who under. 
stood they were to be present at some diversion, though they did not well 
know what. It was enough, however, with Lligliuk just to make the motion 
of turning the handle of the organ, which, conveying to her mind the ides 


vaste is tied Vaca 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 169 


of music and merriment, was always sure to put her immediately into high _ 1822. 
ei February 
spirits. As they came three or four hours before the performance of “John w~ 


Bull” was to commence, they began to grow tired and impatient, especially 
when it became dusk and candles were brought into the cabin. The men 
then explained that it would soon be dark, and that, in returning late to 
their huts, they should disturb the people who would then be fast asleep 
there. Finding that they grew uneasy, I made no objection to their return- 
ing, and sent them off loaded with bread-dust and some oil for each of their 
lamps. They remained long enough, however, to have a peep at Mrs. Brol- 
gruddery, whose dress, when they were informed it was that of a hkablocné 
noolléé-d, (European wife,) they were very anxious in examining, and seemed 
to grieve at going away without witnessing the diversion which this and other 
preparations seemed to promise. 


On the 13th our friends at the huts were fortunate in procuring three seals, Wed. 13. 


an event that created great joy at the village. Mr. Allison, who happened to 
be there when one of these prizes was announced, informed me that there 
was a general outcry of joy ; all the women hurried to the doors of the huts, 
and the children rushed to the beach to meet the men dragging along-the 
prize. One of these little urchins, to complete the triumphant exultation with 
which this event was hailed, instantly threw himself on the animal, and, 
clinging fast to it, was thus dragged to the huts. Each woman was observed 
to bring her ootkooscek, or cooking-pot, to the hut where the seal was dis- 
sected, for the purpose of receiving a share of the meat and blubber. 

Some light snow fell in the forenoon, though the day was otherwise clear. 
A thermometer exposed to the sun’s rays* at noon stood at — 9°, that in the 
shade being 10° lower than this. The snow was melting on the black paint- 
work and in other situations equally favourable. Another wolf, being the 
third, was entrapped this evening, and Mr. Skeoch undertook to make a ske- 
leton of it for preservation as a specimen of these animals. 


* It is here necessary to explain that the “ temperatures in the sun” registered in this Jour- 
nal, were taken by a thermometer suspended on the south side of an unpainted upright post, 
at the distance of one hundred yards from the ship; those ‘ in the shade” by a correspond- 
ing thermometer on its north side. This explanation is necessary, because, in certain situa- 
tions, such as under the lee of the house, or the ships’ sterns, where much heat was radiated, 
the snow was frequently melting, when in places not thus favourably situated, the sun pro- 
duced no such effect. 


1922. 


February 
a) 
Frid, 15. 


Sat. 16. 


170 SECOND, VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


On the 15th it blew a strong gale from S.W. to W.N.W., and the thermo- 
meter, either on account of the strength of the wind or its having occa- 
sionally: some, southing in, it, rose. to — 4°, being the highest temperature 
registered in our journals since the 27th of December preceding. I had 
agreed with QOkotook to accompany him ona sealing-excursion, but. the day 
proved too inclement, the Esquimaux not going out themselves, though it, was 
not. very often, that the weather could prevent them. Considering it-desirable 
to. increase by. all the means, in our power the chances of these people giving 
information of us, we distributed among: several of the men large round 
medallions of sheet copper, having these words punched through them:— 
“‘H. B, M.S. Fury and Hecla, All well, A.D. 1822.” These we suspended 
by; a. piece of white line round their necks, giving them to understand that 
they were to shew them to any Kabloona people they might ever meet with in 
future. Similar ornaments, but, of a smaller size, were subsequently pre- 
sented. to many, of the women, having. on them the words, “ Fury and 
Hecla, 1822.” 

Early on the morning of the 16th, observing. a, party of the Esquimaux 
equipped. with spears passing: near the ships, I joined them, accompanied 
by Mr. Bushnan, and one or two. others. Having crossed the point of the 
island they walked over the ice to the eastward, whe: : we did not overtake 
them till they had got above a mile.and.a quarter from the shore. This. party 
consisted of eight persons, among whom we were glad to find Arnaneelia, 
Okotook, Toolooak, Pootooalook his, elder, brother, and one or two others 
whom we knew. They had by this time, however, separated, into two, or 
three different parties, stationed at the distance of half a mile from each, other 
along the edge of the floe, beyond which to. the eastward there was clear 
water as far as we could,see for frost-smoke. 

The party we at first, joined were seated on a. high hummock of ice, with 
their spears in their hands, looking out for seals. After we had. talked, to 
them for a few minutes, Okotook suddenly started up and set off along the 
edge of the ice, without giving us or his own companions the least warning. 
The latter, seemed, so much accustomed to this, that they took, no further 
notice than by immediately following him, and) we did the same; the whole 
party walking at a very quick rate, and the natives keeping their heads 
constantly turned towards the sea to look out for seals. After being thus en- 
gaged for an hour and a half, we judged, from the motions of a party at some 
distance beyond us, that they had game in view. As we approached them, 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 171 


Okotook evidently began to be apprehensive that we, who did not understand 
the matter, would spoil their sport. To prevent this, he did the most civil 
thing that could well have been devised, which was, to send his companions 
one by one to the spot, and to remain with us himself, keeping us at such a 
distance as to allow us to see their proceedings, without alarming the animal 
they were in pursuit of. The other seven Esquimaux, now forming one 
party, disposed themselves into a single line, so as to make as small an appear- 
ance as possible in the direction in which they were going, and in this manner 
crept very cautiously towards the margin of the floe. On a sudden they all 
stooped down quite low, to hide themselves, and continued thus a quarter of 
an hour, during which time they prepared their lines and spears; and then, 
when the animal appeared to be intercepted from their view, again took the 
opportunity of gaining a few paces upon him in the same cautious manner as 
before. When they had been thus occupied for a full hour, alternately creep- 
ing and stooping down, the seal which had been lying on the ice took the 
water, and they then gave up their chase. During this time, Okotook could 
scarcely restrain his impatience to be nearer the scene of action ; and when we 
produced a spy-glass, which appeared to bring his companions close to us, he 
had not words to express his surprise and satisfaction. Ina short time he 
held it as steadily as we did, and explained by signs every motion he observed. 

As soon as they had given up the seal they had been watching, the whole 
party seemed with one accord to turn their steps homeward, in which direc- 
tion, being that of the ships also, we were by this time not sorry to accom- 
pany them. We were now between three and four miles north-east of the 
ships, and full a mile and a half from any part of the shore. In the open 
water beyond the floe, the tide was running two knots to the northward, and 
as the ice on which we stood had been formed only within the last fortnight, 
and a sheet as substantial as this had before been carried away by the stream, 
it was impossible not to feel some apprehension lest we might thus be de- 
tached fromthe shore, an accident that has been known to happen to Esqui- 
maux ere now*, and has probably more frequently befallen them, when 
none have survived to tell the tale. 

As we returned towards the land, we came to a small rising on the level 
surface of the floe not larger than a common mole-hill, and of much the same 
shape, at which one of the Esquimaux immediately stopped. His com- 
panions, still walking on, called us away, explaining that what we saw was the 


* Crantz. London Edition, 1820, Appendix, p. 310. 
Z2 


SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


172 


Fore Work of a seal, and that it was probable the animal was ahout to complete his 

.v~ hole and to come up on the ice, in which case the man would endeavour to 
kill him. We watched the man at the hole, however, with a glass, for more 
than half an hour, observing him constantly putting his head down towards the 
ice, as if in the act of listening for the seal, but without otherwise changing 
his position ; after which, he followed us on board without success. 

If, however, a man has any reason to suppose that a seal is at work beneath, 
he immediately attaches himself to the place, and seldom leaves it till he has 
succeeded in killing the animal. For this purpose, he first builds ‘a snow- 
wall about four feet in height, to shelter him from the wind, and, seating him- 
self under the lee of it, deposits his spear, lines, and other implements upon 
several little forked sticks inserted into the snow, in order to prevent the 
smallest noise being made in moving them when wanted. But the most 
curious precaution to the same effect consists in tying his own knees together, 
with a thong, so securely as to prevent any rustling of his clothes which 
might otherwise alarm the animal. In this situation, a man will sit quietly 
sometimes for hours together, attentively listeniug to any noise made by the 
seal, and sometimes using the ‘eip-kuttuk, an instrument hereafter described, 
in order to ascertain whether the animal is still at work below. When he 
supposes the hole to be nearly completed, he cautiously lifts his spear, to 
which the line has been previously attached, and as soon as the blowing of 
the seal is distinctly heard, and the ice consequently very thin, he drives it 
into him with the force of both arms, and then cuts away with his panna the 
remaining crust of ice, to enable him to repeat tle wounds and get him out. 
The neitiek is the only seal killed in this manner and, being the smallest, is 
held, while struggling, either simply by hand, or by putting the line round 
a spear with the point stuck into the ice. For the oguke, the line is passed 
round the man’s leg or arm ; and for a walrus, round his body, his feet being 
at the same time firmly set against a hummock of ice, in which position these 
people can from habit hold against a very heavy strain. Boys of fourteen or 
fifteen years of age consider themselves equal to the killing of a neitiek, but 
it requires a full-grown person to master either of the larger animals. 

On the 17th, anumber of the Esquimaux coming before the church service, 
we gave them to understand, by the sun, that none could be admitted before 
noon, when they quietly remained outside the ships till divine service had been 
performed. We then endeavourec to explain to Iligluik that every seventh 
day they must not come to the ships, for, without any intention of offending, 


Sun. 17, 


Marae ne emt ck ct 


eS 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 173 


they had become rather an annoyance in this way. They now brought with ,)52?. 
them a great many little canoes and paddles, sledges, figures of men and oe 


women, and other toys, most of them already bespoke by the officers and men, 
and the rest for sale. 

There was to-day a great deal of open water to the southward, and it had 
once more approached us within half a mile, the ice at the mouth of the bay 
having broken off and drifted away. Mr. Crozier, who visited the huts, 
found that the Esquimaux, as well as ourselves, had been induced to attempt 
the destruction of their followers, the wolves, by setting a trap for them not 
unlike ours, except in the materials, which consisted only of their staple com- 
modity, ice. They had indeed great occasion to employ some such means 
to destroy these rapacious animals, whicl had already carried off one or 
two of their dogs, and threatened nightly to repeat this outrage. 


Toolooak, who now considered himself as quite privileged to find his way Mon. 18. 


into the cabin without a conductor, aid was nt backward in thus practising 
his newly-acquired art of opening and shutti;;: the door, sat with me for a 
couple of hours on the 18th, quietly drawivg ‘aces and animals, an occupa- 
tion to which he tock a great fanc ; «nd we often were reminded, by this 
circumstance, of a similar propens'ty ¢!splayed by his amiable countryman, 
our lamented friend John Sackhouse. We soon found thai T'vclooak pos- 
sessed a capacity equal to any thing ie chose to take an interest in learning ; 
and could he at his present age have been voluntarily removed from his com- 
panions, and his attention directed to the acquirement of higher branches of 
knowledge than that of catching seals, he would amply have repaid any pains 
bestowed upon his education. I had always entertained great objection to 
taking any such individual from his home, on the doubtful chance of berefit- 
ing himself, or of his doing any service to the public as an interpreter. My 
scruples on this head had hitherto been confined to the consideration due to 
the individual himself, avd ¢o the relatives he leaves behind. In our present 
case, however, not the smallest public advantage eould be derived from it ; 
for it had long ago become evident that we should soon know more of the 
Esquimaux languag« than any of them were likely to learn of English in any 
‘ reasonable perio! of time: I was therefore far from desiring to receive from 
Toolooak an answer in the affirmative, when I to-day plainly put the ques- 
tion tc him, whether he would go with me to kablaona noona (European 
country). Never was a more decisive negative given than Toolooak gave to 
this proposal. He eagerly repeated the word Na-o (No) half a dozen times, 


1822. 
February 
wre 


Tues. 19, 


174 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


and then told me that if he went away his father would cry. This simple 
but irresistible appeal to paternal affection, his decisive manner of making it, 
and the feelings by which his reply was evidently dictated, were just what 
could have been wished. No more could be necessary to convince those who 
witnessed it, that these people may justly lay equal claim with ourselves to 
these common feelings of our nature; and having once satisfied myself of this, 
I determined never again to excite in Toolooak’s mind another disagreeable 
sensation, by talking to him on this subject. 

Besides the toys and models I have mentioned above, as articles of barter 
with these people, we also employed them more usefully in making wooden 
shades for the eyes, after their own method, as the time was fast approaching 
when some such precaution would become necessary to guard the eyes from 
the excessive glare of reflected light. There was also a considerable trade 
established in mittens, which being made of prepared seal-skin, and nearly 
water-tight, were particularly serviceable to our men when constantly handling 
the lead-lines in the summer. In this manner we contrived to turn our new 
acquaintance to some little account. 

On the morning of the 19th, the thermometer, for the second and last time 
this winter, fell to —39° on the ice, being within one degree of the lowest 
temperature we here experienced. It was curioug to see how clearly about 
this period a space continued to be marked out in the sky by the frost 
smoke, shewing where there was still clear water, though in some parts too 
distant for us to distinguish. This phenomenon consisted of a dark cloud- 
like appearance, rising from a very fine point at the horizon, about S.W.b.W., 
thence increasing in altitude to about 3° in the S.b.E., where it was highest, 
and again coming to a point about N.N.E. The contrast between this cloud 
of vapour and the white snowy sky was often peculiarly striking, particularly 
at night and when the moon shone bright. Whenever the clear water was 
near us, the frost-smoke that issued from it obscured from our sight the more 
distant appearance I have now described ; in the first case it resembled a 
fog when close at hand, and in the second precisely what seamen understand 
by the name of “ fog-bank,”’ 

Among the natives who visited the Fury to-day was Ewerat, of whom I 
have already spoken as Ang-et-kook, or chief-sorcerer of the tribe, a dis- 
tinction with which he had made some of our gentlemen acquainted at one 
of their earliest visits to the huts. Being desirous of seeing him perform 
some of the tricks, which had acquired for him this pre-eminence, I requested 


mae =~ Ve PE EU 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 175 


him to indulge me with a sight of them. Aftersome little demur, he began 
to make his lips quiver, then moved his nose up and down, gradually closed: 
his eyes, and increased the violence of his grimaces till every feature was 
hideously distorted ; at the same time, he moved his head rapidly from side 
to side, uttering sometimes a snuffling sound, and ai others a raving sort of 
cry. Having worked himself into this ridiculous kind of frenzy, which lasted 
perhaps from twenty to thirty seconds, he suddenly discontinued it, and 
suffered: his features to relax into their natural form; but the motion of his 
head seemed to. have so stupified him, as indeed it well might, that there 
remained an unusual vacancy and a drowsy stare upon his countenance for 
some time afterwards, Being pressed to repeat this piece of buffoonery, he 
did so two or three times; and onione occasion Togolat asked him in a serious 
tone some questions respecting me, which he as seriously answered. In 
general however the women paid little attention to his grimaces, and the 
whole ended with a hearty laugh from all parties. 

I had to-day some conversation with a woman named Appokiuk, whom 
lligliuk had mentioned as having seen Kabloona people before us. This 
woman was gifted, however, with such a volubility of tongue, that speak- 
ing as she did in a language very imperfectly known to us, she gave 
no time for questions, and therefore afforded little information. All we 
could make out for certain was, that she had within a year past seen two 
Kabloona Oomiak, (whether ships or boats was still doubtful*) and that her 
husband was now far away. From all this we concluded that she had’ been 
far enough to the southward to see the Hudson’s Bay ships in the course of 
their annual voyage ; and this account gave us very sanguine hopes of being 
thus able to communicate with them by meansof some of the Esquimaux. 

On the 20th a number of our new friends having been allowed upon the 
upper deck, an old woman, named Ayiig-gd-look, stole our cooper’s punch, 
which she was shewing to her companions alongside the Hecla just after- 
wards, when Lieutenant Hoppner observed it and sent her back with an 
escort. It was impossible not to admit that the fault was chiefly on. our 
side, in permitting these poor people to roam about too freely amidst 
temptations, whick scarcely any thing human could have withstood; but 
as it was necessary to take some notice of it, I went through nearly the 
same process as with Kaoongut, and dismissed her with great appearance of 


* These people apply the word oomtak to any vessel larger than a canoe. 


1822. 
February 
Pow 


Wed, 20 


1822, 
February 
owe 


Thur, 21, 


Frid. 22, 


SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


176 


indignation to the huts. We were glad to find that their wants had there 
been well supplied to-day, three seals having been caught. They had 
lately indeed been tolerably successful in general, and had required 
but little of our assistance. Mr. Elder observing one of their dogs at- 
tacked by several wolves, and hastening to the spot with his gun, found 
that these animals had made such quick work in the partition of their prey, 
that though he reached the scene of action in a few minutes, and the dog 
had at first made considerable resistance, only one of its hind legs re- 
mained, each wolf having run off with his share. It is remarkable that 
these creatures had never entered our traps since the moon had declined 
to the southward, whereas not a night elapsed before that without their going 
to them. The Esquimaux had in theirs caught only a fox. 

During the eclipse of the sun, which took place to-day, the diminution 
of light was very considerable, but the weather was unfavourable for ob- 
serving it for any useful purpose. Captain Lyon remarked that some of 
the Esquimaux, who were on board the Hecla at the time, were a good deal 
alarmed at this phenomenon, which indeed made a general bustle among 
them. Two of them were found on the ice lying on their faces, but it was 
not ascertained whether their superstitions on this subject were the same 
as those of their brethren in Greenland. 

Mr. Henderson being desirous of seeing something of the customs of 
tiiese people during the hours of darkness, obtained my permission to 
pass the night at the huts, accompanied by Mr. Griffiths. Soon after they 
ieft the ships in the evening it came on to blow strong from the north-west, 
with much snow-drift, so that losing the tracks they with difficulty found 
the village. The wind quickly increased to a hard gale, and the thermo- 
meter rose from —25° at six P.M., to —16° at four the following morning. 
Our gentlemen returning on board in the course of the forenoon, we 
were pleased to hear that they had met with every attention, and 
especially from Okotook, with whom they lodged. As they had slept 
in Kaoongut’s hut, one side of which was occupied by Okotook and 
his family, the old fellow thought it a good opportunity to make up the 
quarrel occasioned by his dishonesty ; and he accordingly made his appear- 
ance on board to-day for the first time since that event. Tolooak was de- 
puted to bring his father down into the cabin, where a formal reconcilia- 
tion took place, to the great sutisfaction of the latter, who had found out 
that to be out of favour with us was attended with the serious consequence 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 177 


of being also out of pocket. It was laughable to observe the pains he now 
took to impress on the mind of every person he saw, that hé was no longer 
a tigliktoke, by which name he had lately been distinguished; for he 
seemed to think that my receiving him again into favour was a perfect 
absolution from his offence. 

The gale continued to blow from the north-west throughout the day, 
though the barometer gradually rose from 29.73 to 29.93 inches. Two 
ravens were seen: these birds, which were observed frequently in the 
course of the winter, were almost always seen in a single par at a time, 
and their plumage remained perfectly black as in the summer. 


On the 23d I paid another visit to the huts, and found the greater part Sat. 23. 


of the men absent on their sealing excursions. We thought however that, 
except on pressing occasions, one man was left in each hut to keep an eye 
on the conduct of the women, and this was the case to-day. The huts 
had in the interior assumed a somewhat different appearance since I had 
last seen them; the roofs were much blackened by the smoke of the 
lamps, and the warmth had in most parts given them a glazed and honey- 
combed surface: indeed the whole of the walls had become much thinner 
by thawing, so that the light was more plainly visible through them. The 
snow also on which the lamps stood was considerably worn away, so as to 
destroy in great measure the regularity of the original plan of construction. 
To these changes might be added that of a vast quantity of blood and oil 
that now defaced the purity of the snowy floor, and emitted effluvia not 
very agreeable to European noses; so that, upon the whole, it may be ima- 
gined that our first impressions of the comfort and cleanliness of these ha- 
bitations were more favourable than their present state was calculated to 
excite, 

To the original apartments they had now also added various smaller 
places for stores, communicating with the huts from within, and looking 
something like our ovens, though without any door to them. In some of 
these they deposited their upper jackets, which they usually take off in 
coming into their huts, as we do a great coat; while in smaller ones, like 
little shelves in a recess, they kept various articles of their Kablooana 
riches, These and similar alterations and additions they were constantly 
making throughout the winter; for their inexhaustible materials being always 
at hand, it required but little time and labour to adopt any arrangement 
that might suit their convenience. 
2A 


Se 


SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


178 


After distributing a number of presents in the first four huts, I found on 
vf entering the last, that Pootooalook had been successful in bringing in a seal, 
over which two elderly women were standing, armed with large knives, their 
hands and faces besmeared with blood, and delight and exultation depicted 
on their countenances. They had just performed the first operation of di- 
viding the animal into two parts, and thus laying open the intestines. These 
being taken out, and all the blood carefully baled up and put into the 
ootkooseek, or cooking-pot, over the fire, they separated the head and flippers 
from the carcass and then divided the ribs. All the loose scraps were put 
into the pot for immediate use, except such as .the two butchers now and then 
crammed into their own mouths, or distributed to the numcrous and eager 
by-standers for still more immediate consumption. Of these morsels the 
children came in for no small share, every little urchin that could find its way 
to the slaughter-house, running eagerly in and, between the legs of the men 
and women, presenting its mouth for a large lump of raw flesh, just as an 
English child of the same age might do for a piece of sugar-candy. Every 
now and then also a dog would make his way towards the reeking carcass, and 
when in the act of seizing upon some delicate part, was sent off yelping by 
a heavy ‘ow with the handles of the knives. When all the flesh is disposed 
of, for a portion of which each of the women from the other huts usually 
brings her ootkooseek, the blubber still remains attached to the skin, from 
which it is separated the last; and the business being now completed, the two 
parts of the hide are rolled up and laid by, together with the store of flesh 
and blubber. During the dissection of their seals, they have a curious cus- 
tom of sticking a thin filament of skin, or of some part of the intestines, upon 
the foreheads of the boys, who are themselves extremely fond of it, it being 
intended, as Tligliuk afterwards informed me, to make them fortunate seal- 
catchers. 

The seals which they take during the winter are of two kinds, the Neitiek, 
or small seal (phoca hispida), and the Oguke, or large seal (phoca barbata ). 
These and the Ei-i-ék, or Walrus, constitute their means of subsistence at 
this season ; but, on this particular part of the coast, the latter are not very 
abundant and they chiefly catch the neitiek. The animal we had now seen 
dissected was of that kind, and with young at the time. A small one taken 
out of it had a beautiful skin which, both in softness and colour, very much 
resembled raw silk ; but no inducement could make Pootooalook part with it, 

he having destined it for that night’s supper. 


onl 


<—S _—_S = eo Ne eee See 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 179 


After quitting this scene of filth, I found, on returning to Kaoongut’s hut, ebraky 
that Toolooak had been no less successful than his brother, and that the w~ 
same operation was also performing here. Having, therefore, explained to 
lligliuk that none of them were to come to the ships the following day, I 
had no inclination to see the process repeated, and was glad to take my 
leave. 

We observed a great deal of open water to the southward, about three 
miles from the land, with the usual cloud of frost-smoke hovering over it. 

The ice on which we had accompanied the Esquimaux a few days before had 
now entirely disappeared, and on that side of the island the clear water again 
washed the shore. 

On the 24th no natives visited the ships, in consequence of my injunction Sun. 24. 
to that effect. This, however, was the only Sunday on which they complied 
with it, partly, I believe, from their not rightly understanding what we wished, 
but perhaps more from their not much piquing themselves on sacrificing any 
convenience of their own to that of others. A great number of dovekies, 
whose plumage appeared still whiter than before, were swimming about off 
the point, but the risk of sending a boat among the young ice in the tide- 
way was too great to attempt it. The weather was remarkably fine and plea- 
sant, the wind being light from the north-west ; but the thermometer was low 
during the day, and fell to — 32° at midnight. At noon, on the 25th, it was Mon. 25. 
at — 28° in the shade, and at — 16° in the sun. The temperature of the sea 
at the surface, and that at the bottom in the seven fathoms were both 28° 
by the same thermometer. 

The 26th was a clear and moderate day, and the thermometer gradually Tues, 26. 
rose to — 9° at midnight. The wind became easterly for a few hours, and 
then suddenly veered again to the northward. Our theatre closed this night 
for the season with the two farces of “ The Citizen,” and “ High Life below 
Stairs,” The ships’ companies testified the gratification which they had derived 
from these performances in their own way, namely, by three hearty cheers at 
the fall of the curtain; and the officers, I am confident, considered their 
trouble more than repaid by this expression of the men’s feelings. 

The veering of the wind to the nortiward soon produced its usual effect of wea. 27. 
reducing the temperature of the atmosphere, and the thermometer rapidly 
fell till it had reached — 37°. On the 28th, Okotook and iligliuk coming ),,,. 93, 
on board, an occurrence took place, which, as it shews the disposition of 
the Esquimaux, and especially of one of the most intelligent and interesting 
2A2 


er et eee ee 


1822. 
Februar 


SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


180 


among them, I may here relate. Some time before, Iligliuk, who, from the 


~~ superior neatness and cleanliness with which she performed her work, was by 


this time in great request as a sempstress, had promised to cover for me a 
little model of a canoe, and had in fact sent it to me by the serjeant of ma- 
rines, though I had not rightly understood from the latter from which of 
the women it came. Believing that she had failed in her promise, I now 
taxed her with it, when she immediately defended herself with considerable 
warmth and seriousness, but without making me comprehend her meaning. 
Finding that she was wasting her words upon me, she said no more till 
an hour afterwards, when the serjeant accidentally coming into the cabin, she, 
with the utmost composure, but with a decision of manner peculiar to herself, 
took hold of his arm to engage his attention, and then looking him steadfastly 
in the face, accused him of not having faithfully executed her commission to 
me. The mistake was thus instantly explained, and I thanked Iligliuk for 
her canoe ; but it is impossible for me to describe the quiet, yet proud, satis- 
faction displayed in her countenance, at having thus cleared herself from the 
imputation of a breach of promise. 

There being among the presents with which we were supplied a number 
of pikes, we presented two or three of these from each ship to the most de- 
serving of the Esquimaux, to serve as staves for their spears ; and valuable 
ones they proved to them. Upon each pike were marked by small nails 
driven into the wood the words ‘“ Fury and Hecla, 1822.” 

Almost the whole of these people were now affected with violent colds 
and coughs, occasioned by a considerable thawing that had lately taken 
place in their huts, so as to wet their clothes and bedding; though, as 
will be seen by the Meteorological Register, we had as yet experienced 
no great increase of temperature. From the nature of their habitations, 
however, their comfort was greater, and their chance of health better when 
the cold was more severe. On this account they began to make fresh alte- 
rations in these curious dwelling-places, cither by building the former apart- 
ments two or three feet higher, or adding others that they might be less 
crowded. In building a higher hut they construct it over, and, as it were, 
concentric with the old one, which is then removed from within. It is 
curious to consider that, in all these alterations, the object kept in view was 
coolness, and this in houses formed of snow! 

Some of them had caught a wolf in their trap ; but we found that nothing 
less than extreme want could have induced them to eat the flesh of that 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 181 


which we had given them, as now that they had other food, they would not 
touch it. Only four wolves at this time remained alive of the original pack, 
and these were constantly prowling about near the ships or the village. 

The month of February closed with the thermometer at — 32°, and though 
the sun had now attained a meridian altitude of nearly sixteen degrees, and 
enlivened us with his presence above the horizon for ten hours in the day, 
no sensible effect had yet been produced on the average temperature cf the 
atmosphere. The uniformly white surface of snow on which at this season 
the sun’s rays have to act, or rather leaving them nothing to act upon, is 
much against the first efforts to produce a thaw; but our former experience 
of the astonishing rapidity with which this operation is carried on, when 
once the ground begins to be laid bare, served in some measure to reconcile 
us to what appeared a protraction of the cold of winter not to have been 
expected in our present latitude. 


ABSTRACT of the METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL kept on board His Majesty’s Ship 
Fury, at Winter Island, during the Month of February, 1822. 
a 


| Prevailing 


| Pahrenheit’s Ther- 
Barometer. Winds. 


| mometer, 
Day hs Prevailing Weather. 


mum. | mum, | Mean. Directicu, 


rature of 


Lower Deck. 


Maxi- | Mini- 
mum, | mum. | Mean, 


Mean Tempe- 


oO ° fo} inches Bey | inches 
-19 |-24 |-+20.92 -01) 29,9930.000]) NW 
28 | 23.42 


28.92 


| 

30.03) 29.99,30.008 NW 
30.04) 29.90.29 .968 NNW 

29.96) 29.79 20.840) NNW. 


sess 


29.79) 29.76 29.780 NNW 
29.72,29.763 NW ‘| cloudy 
20. pri 550] NNW |li hazy 
29, ase 525], WNW i cloudy 
28. se, 041 NW i cloudy 
28.93) 28. ae 801]} NbW i hazy and snow 
29.31) 28. ak 29,117]] North cloudy 
29.34 L NNW cloudy 
29.32) 28,99,29.110) NW i cloudy 
29.52) 20.41/29.472) NNW / cloudy 
29.37| 29,28'20.315 SW hazy and drift 
29.35] 29.2929.318]/ NWbN | ti clear 
29.26) 29,14/29.193 NNW 
29.27]°20,15)20,250 
29.74) 29.43)29.582 
29.92) 29.78 20.872 
20.85 g0.7ale0.108 clear and drift 
29.93) iesalas te N hazy 
29.99] 29.93)29.952 hazy and drift - 
30.01] 20.9329.967]] N A.M, drift P.M, fine ; 


30.03 ad ew +020 . i clear 
29.98 ciel wind hazy 
29.70 tdi coca North i fine 


29.80, 29.63 29.733 North fine 


See 
eet 


ces eaaene wie | 


— 
i] 


= 
_ 


sais 


_ 
tb 


_ 
ao 


_—_ —_ 
— a 


eel 


-4 |-37 24.07} 54.6 00.04 28.78 20.593 


= Sa PRE is.4 


SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY. 


CHAPTER VIII. 


CHARTS DRAWN BY THE ESQUIMAUX—ILLNESS AMONG THEM——A JOURNEY PERFORMED 
ACROSS WINTER ISLAND-——SUFFERINGS OF THE PARTY BY FROST——-FURTHER NOTICE 
OF THE ESQUIMAUX CHARTS——-DEPARTURE OF SOME OF THESE PEOPLE, AND A SEPARATE 
VILLAGE ESTABLISHED ON THE ICE-—-VARIOUS METEOROLOGICAL PHENOMENA— 
OKOTOOK AND HIS WIFE BROUGHT ON BOARD-——-ANECDOTES RELATING TO THEM— 
SHIPS RELEASED FROM THE ICE BY SAWING. 


LitTLE as we considered ourselves to stand in need of any auxiliary re- Reo 


sources for the complete occupation of our time during the winter, it must mae 
be confessed that the arrival of the Esquimaux served in no small degree to * 
enliven us at this season; and, from the quickness with which the last month 

had appeared to pass by, we were not sorry to have dispensed with the 
necessity of putting to the test with what degree of patience we might other- 

wise have berne the remaining period of our confinement. 

Our invalid, Reid, continued about this time much the same as before, 
being sometimes better and sometimes worse, but without .any permanent 
or material alteration in either way, except that which a long and tedious 
confinement must necessarily produce. We had now also an addition to our 
sick-list in the ship’s cook, who complained of a severe pain in the upper 
part of his thigh, the bone of which had been shattered several years before 
by a musket-ball. It was for afew days uncertain whether this pain was i: 
rheumatic, or whether any matter was forming in the wound. The latter, tf 
however, proved to be the case, and an incision having been made, the cook 
was able to return to his duty in a short time. 

The thermometer rose gradually from — 35° on the morning of the Ist of 
March to —11°at night, and on the following day it had reached + 2°, being Sat. 2. 
the first time we had seen it above zero since Christmas. This increase of 
temperature had been accompanied, or perhaps caused, by a change of wind 


1822, 
March. 
w\n~e 


Sun. 3. 


Mon. 4. 


184 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


from the north-west by south to south-east; from which quarter it soon 
freshened to a gale, with much snow-drift. On the 3d it again drew round 
to the northward, but continued to blow as strong as before. During this 
time the mercury in the barometer did not fall below 29.94 inches, and that 
during a short intermission of the gale on the 2d. 

In the midst of this inclement weather a number of the Esquimaux were out 
upon the ice to the southward, some of them at the distance of a mile and a half 
from the land, with large spaces of clear water intervening between it and 
them; the very ice on which they trod being in rapid motion with the tide, and 
themselves enveloped alternately in a cloud of frost-smoke or a.tremendous 
snow-drift, which often obscured them from our sight. They seemed, how- 
ever, to think nothing of this, or at least to consider themselves amply repaid 
for their risk and labour, by procuring abundance of seals or sea-horses on 
most of these excursions. They were indeed so well furnished at this time, 
that even our biscuit was occasionally refused. 

I to-day procured from little Toonek a string of bones, which on inquiry 
we found to belong to a land animal called by the Esquimaux Kadlee-arioo, 
and which we certainly had never met with. From the description given us 
by these people on this and several other occasions, we considered it likely 
to be the wolverene ; but it must be extremely rare in those parts of America. 

On the 4th we had a long visit from Okotook and Iligliuk, who both looked 
very ill and were labouring under severe coughs. In the course of our con- 
versation I found from Okotook, that the man whose tent I had visited in the 
summer up Lyon Inlet, was named Arnalooa, and that he was uncle to Oko- 
took, being the brother of his mother Idiumea, now at Winter Island. We 
found indeed that they knew the whole history of our visit; for they not on!y 
described and named the persons we saw, but related the exact manner in 
which Mr. Sherer’s drinking-cup had been stolen, its being secreted in the 
boot of Arnalooa’s wife, and their expulsion from our tents in consequence. 
We subsequently discovered that Appokiuk, the woman already mentioned as 
having somewhere seen Kadloona oomiak, was one of Arnalooa’s wives, though 
now separated from him, and that she was one of the party in question who 
had visited our tents in the summer, though our short intercourse did not 
allow us immediately to recognise her features. It turned out therefore that 
the only oomiaks she had ever seen were our own boats on that occasion ; and 
this was a striking instance out of many in which we at first totally misappre- 


eae Ff ==» 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 185 


hended these people’s meaning, in consequence of our ignorance of their 
language. 

Being extremely desirous of ascertaining what the Esquimaux knew of the 
coast to the northward of our present station, we to-day drew out roughly on 
a large sheet of paper the conformation of the land in this neighbourhood, 
and as far to the westward as Repulse Bay, and then requested Iligliuk to 
continue it to the northward. She readily understood our meaning, and with 
a pencil soon traced various indentations in the coast, together with several 
islands, on one of which called Amitioke, at the distance of sixteen days’ 
journey, she informed us she was born. As it would afford no interest to re- 
late the various surmises, hopes, and fears, which this and several other Esqui- 
maux charts subsequently gave rise to in our minds, it will only. be necessary 
in this place further to remark, that our first inquiries did not produce any 
very satisfactory information as to the relative position or trending of the 
coast beyond Winter Island, and that it was not till long after this time that 
we were enabled duly to appreciate the geographical knowledge which they 
possessed. 

Whatever uncertainty existed however on this subject, or whatever might 
be the information we could hope to obtain from the Esquimaux in the course 
of our further communication with them, our business was to see and not to 
speculate. If, as might reasonably be expected from the nature of the coast 
lately examined, that upon which we hoped soon to recommence our discove- 
ries was also indented by inlets and fringed with numerous islands, it had 
long before occurred to Captain Lyon and myself in the course of our con- 
versations on this subject, that considerable time might be saved to the ships, 
during the short season of navigation about to commence, by sending a party 
by land to complete as much as possible of that examination before the ships 
were released from the ice. As it was requisite that this should be accom- 
plished before the commencement of a general thaw, by which the return of 
the party might have been altogether prevented, preparations were now made 
for a journey of this nature ; and Captain Lyon offering his services to coin- 
mand the Expedition, the proper number of individuals were selected to com- 
mence their arrangements under his orders. As one of the Esquimaux with 
whom we were well acquainted might prove of service on such a journey, 
Captain Lyon's friend Ayoket, who was in every respect the most eligible for 
the purpose, was informed of our intentions and a proposal made to him to 
accompany the party to “ Iligliuk’s country.” 


2B 


1822, 
March. 
ae 


1822. 
March 


186 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVE!: V 


We had. now succeeded in taking the last wolf in » «"y;;, ihe Esquimaux 


wy~ having caught two, and the other eleven having been entrapped or shot near 


Thur. 7 


Sat. 9. 


the ships. The natives were greatly relieved by the extirpation of these 
ravenous animals which were constantly alarming them at the huts; and we 
were ourselves not sorry to have got rid of them so soon. 


. Onthe 7th the wind got round from north to south-west and increased to, a 


strong gale from that quarter, which continued without intermission and with 
almost constant snow the whole of the 8th. It was remarkable that the mer- 
cury in the barometer was stationary at 30.31 inches for eight hours on the 
night of the 7th and the morning of the 8th, though the wind had then been 
blowing strong for more than half. a day. The thermometer again rose to +2° 
this morning. 

To ascertain the thickness of the ice formed in the bay since the close of 
the last autumn, a hole was dug in a part where no separation had taken place 
since the commencement of the winter’s frost, and where in fact we had seen 
it commence. The thickness of the floe was here four feet seven, inches, 
being the produce of exactly five calendar months. The ice was hard, brittle, 
and transparent till within six or eight inches of the lower surface, where it 
became soft and porous, allowing the water to filter slowly through it. 

The Esquimanx were fortunate in killing another walrus which we met them 
dragging in high spirits towards the village. They usually divide these huge 
animals on the spot into four or five parts, each of which with its proportion 
of the intestines isssewn up so as to resemble a seal at a little distance. Four 
or five dogs, if they have them at hand, are fastened to each of these, and the 
man who attends them frequently rides home upon it as on a sledge. 

The wind moderated on the 9th, but.continued from the south-west, and a 
great deal of snow fell. The mildness of the weather (the thermometer having 
got as high as. + 13°) continued to incommode the natives in their huts 
more and more, and, severe coughs and catarrhs were still epidemic among 
them. Some of the women: had quite lost their voices, and almost every indi- 
vidual was more or less a sufferer from the constant dripping of water from 
the roofs of. their apartments. 


Sun. 10.. On the evening of the 10th, while I was sitting in my cabin, the door opened 


gently and in walked Toolooak, who very unceremoniously seated himself on 
the opposite side of the table, and soon began to display not only his usual 
good humour, but a degree of archness for which we had before scarcely given 
him credit. As aspecimen of this, though by no means the only one with 


; es 


ABMER SE RIE RAINS ti er ie = te ae 


ee = = ae ee Sa ST Ra aia RE oe 
“= er me . raed “ age ie 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 187 


which he treated us, I had no sooner gone into the gun-room to drink tea, 
than Toolooak, who was now alone in the cabin, took it into his head to play ~~ 
my servant a trick ; for which purpose he boldly rang the bell, and when the 
servant came, laughed at him very heartily for his pains. After levying con- 
tributions by way of supper on all the officers’ messes, he wrapped himself up 
in all the skins we could muster, and slept soundly on my lockers till the 
morning, when after a hearty breakfast he took his departure, well pleased 
with his entertainment, but still more with the various presents he took with 
him. 

On the 12th, Okotook came, according to an appointment previously made, Tues. 12. 
with a sledge and six dogs to give me a ride to the huts, bringing with him his 
son Sioutkuk who, with ourselves, made up a weight of near four hundred 
pounds upon the sledge. After being upset twice and stopping at least ten 
times, notwithstanding the incessant bullying of Okotook, and as it seemed 
to me, more bodily labour on his part to steer us clear of accidents, than if 
he had walked the whole way, we at length arrived at the huts, a distance 
of two miles, in five-and-twenty minutes. Of this equipment, and their usual 
modes of travelling, I shall have occasion to speak more fully in another 
place. 

I found that several fresh alterations had been made in the huis since my 
last visit, all however of the same kind, and having in view the same object 
as those last described. In these alterations they seem to consult the con- 
venience of the moment, and to do it all by such unanimous consent that no 
consultation or difference of opinion ever appears to exist about it. So much 
snow-drift had now collected about the huts, that their external appearance 
was as much altered as that of the interior, and it was difficult to trace any re- 
semblance to the original village, or even to perceive its present limits. The 
snow was now as high as the roofs on every side, so that one might walk com- 
pletely over them, and, but for the round plates of ice composing the windows, 
without suspecting the little hive of human beings that was comfortably esta- 
blished below. This however was not always done with impunity, when the 
thawing within had too much weakened the roofs, in which case a leg some- 
times made its way through, and discovered in what parts repairs were 
becoming necessary. The natives were at this time extremely well furnished 
with seals’ fesh for food, and oil for their lamps, and all they would accept 
from us (except meat which we could not afford to give) was water, and this 
2B 


188 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


they swallowed in such quantities whenever they came to the ships, that it 
was impossible to furnish them with half as much as they desired. 

We had before this time communicated to Ayoket and his countrymen our 
intention of sending a party of our people to the northward in the spring ; 
and Captain Lyon had displayed to him all the charms of a brightly polished 
brass kettle, of greater magnitude than had perhaps ever entered into an 
Esquimaux imagination, as an inducement among various others for him to ac- 
company the Kabloonas in their excursion. The prospect of such riches was 
a temptation almost irresistible ; but enterprise is not the genius of an Esqui- 
maux, and Ayoket,we soon began to perceive, had no fancy for the proposed 
trip, which all his friends persisted in saying could never be accomplished. 
This was evidently to be attributed, in no small degree, to jealousy of any one 
individual among them being thus selected ; and the brass kettle was speedily 
the means of increasing the distance to “ Iligliuk’s country” from sixteen 
to twenty-four days’ journey. We had long, indeed, observed that this feel- 
ing of jealousy was easily excited among these people ; but what is extraordi- 
nary, it never displayed itself (as is most usual) among themselves, but was 
entirely vented upon us, who were, though innocently, the authors of it. As 
an instance of this, a man of the name of Karrétok refused to take from me 
a strong and useful pair of scissors as a present, because, as he did not hesi- 
tate to assure me, I had given Okotook a pike which was more valuable. To 
shew him that this temper was not likely to produce any thing to his advan- 
tage, I took back the scissors, and having sent him away went to my 
dinner. Going accidentally on deck an hour afterwards, I found Karretok 
still on board, who having had time to reflect on his folly now came up 
to me with a smiling face, and begged hard for the scissors, which of course 
he did not get. Many similar instances occurred, both to Captain Lyon and 
myself, 

To this discouragement on the part of his friends, was added on that of 
Ayoket the same wavering and inconstant disposition which most other 
savages possess, rendering it impossible to place any dependence on his pro- 
mises and intentions for two hours together. Indeed the more our scheme 
was pressed upon his attention, and the more he saw of the actual prepara- 
tions for the journey, the less doubtful his intentions became; and arrange- 
ments were therefore made for completing the party without him, For the 
reasons now given, it was equally impossible ever to direct the attention of 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 189 


the Esquimaux, with any hope of success, to our scheme of thei~ conveying 
letters to the Hudson’s Bay settlements. 

On the 13th and 14th, the weather was extremely mild, the thermometer 
getting as high as +9°; and as this took place with a north-west wind, which 
was usually the coldest, we began to flatter ourselves that the spring was now 
indeed advancing by rapid strides. On the evening of the 14th, though the 
thermometer was no higher than +4°, the atmosphere had a degree of softness 
in it so pleasant to our sensations that, as one of the quarter-masters not un- 
naturally however unphilosophically remarked, “ it felt exactly as if it was 
going to rain "—a phenomenon, however, that was not so near as we then 
expected. This apparent turn in the season induced me to allow Captain 
Lyon to put in execution a plan he had proposed, of going out with his in- 
tended party for one day, for the double purpose of affording them a little 
practice, and of ascertaining the breadth and nature of the channel which he 
would have to cross on the ice, in order to reach the main land. As the plan 
of the journey partly depended upon this, I agreed to his proposal of setting 
out for this purpose on the following day, taking with him a tent, blankets 
and provisions for three days in case of accidents. 

At seven A.M. on the 15th, Captain Lyon and his party left the ships ; 
the thermometer being as high as zero, and a moderate breeze blowing 
from the northward though accompanied by considerable snow-drift ; an 
annoyance which it now required much less strength of wind to create tia 
at the commencement of the winter, owing to the snow having become 
more minute. Irom the very hour of Captain Lyon’s departure the ther- 
mometer began to fall rapidly, and the wind to increase; till at midnight 
the former had reached —32° and a hard gale blew from the north-west ; 
upon the whole it proved one of the most inclement nights for people to be 
exposed to, that we had experienced in our present quarters, and therefore 
created in our minds the most alarming apprehensions for the safety of our 
iravellers. It is scarcely less difficult to imagine than to describe the con- 
trast between exposure to all the horrors of such tremendous inclemency, 
an the fireside comforts we on board were enjoying. In this climate more 
frequently than in any other does the mind turn to the 


Poor naked wretches, wheresoe'er they be, 
That bide the pelting of the pitiless storm. 


But now that some of our own companions were thus exposed, the idea came 


182.2. 
March 
Sy i Go 


Frid. 15 


1822. 
March. 
PY 


Sat. 16. 


190 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


more forcibly home to our recollections, together with the utter helpless- 
ness, not to say hopelessness, of their situation. 

The wind and drift continued incessantly on the 16th; and as the ther- 
mometer rose no higher than --20° during the day, our appreliensions for 
Captain Lyon’s party were by no means diminished. To send in quest of them, 
would have been only to incur the certainty of other men being equally 
exposed. Indeed this is one of the cases in which no assistance can be 
offered ; fur any persons sent out with that hope must inevitably become 
helpless in a short time, while the snow-drift would render it impossible to 
trace those whom they were intended to assist. We had however prepared 
«i party under Lieutenant Reid to be despatched the instant it moderated, 
when to our infinite surprise and joy, at one P.M. Captain Lyon arrived on 
board, having with great difficulty succeeded in conducting his party sately 
to the ships. 

If I have succeeded in imparting to the reader any idea of that apprehen- 
sion for the safety of our absentees, which we ourselves experienced, he 
wins Not be sorry at once to be presented with Captain Lyon’s account of 
this perilous though short excursion : 


‘* At seven A.M., on the 15th, we proceeded towards the hills to the north- 
ward of our winter-quarters. A strong wind arose soon after our starting, 
and blew directly in our faces, bringing thick clouds of drift snow witii it. 
On ascending the sloping ground we found the sledge too much for us, and 
it was with great difficulty dragged through the soft snow in which we 
waded knee deep. The wind had now increased to a heavy gale, our utmost 
view was bounded to twenty yards, and every time of resting to take breath 
we al! received severe frost bites. ‘The sun having risen above the thickest 
par of the drift snow enabled us to steer a direct northerly course, for we 
expected in that direction to arrive at a small bay, which had been observed 
by Captain Parry and myself on our first arrival. At ten we were con- 
linmed in our conjecture by descending suddenly and arriving at a quantity 
of grounded ice, directed by which we made our way round the head of the 
bay, and arrived on the side of a small hill a little after eleven. The ex- 
treme severity of the weather determined me on pitching our tent, and wait- 
ing until, in better weather, we could from the rising ground command a 
view of our future route. 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE, 19] 


‘* When the tent had been pitched an hour, and our party were all smoking 
to promote warmth, the temperature at our feet was 1° below zero, and 
over head amongst the smoke + 7°; in the outer air it was — 5°, which 
although of itself sufficiently cold was rendered doubly piercing by the 
strength of the wind. John Lee was soon seized with a fit of shivering 
and severe pains in the loins, to check which we put him into his blanket 
and covered him with clothes which could ill be spared. A deep hole 
being dug in the snow a fire was made with the greatest difficulty, and we 
were made comfortable for a time by a warm mess of soup. I afterwards 
found that it would be possible by extending our excavation to make a 
cavern in which we might pass the night, for it would have been next to 
impossible to continue in the tent. Some of the men were therefore set to 
work, and had thus so good an opportunity of warming the mselves, that our 
only shovel was lent from one to the other asa particular favour. At two P.M. 
the outer air was -—15°, and zero was the temperature of the tent, when 
Arnold’s pocket chronometer stopped from the effects of the cold. By four 
P.M. the cavern was finished and of sufficient size to contain us all in a 
sitting posture. After taking some hot soup, Lee was removed to the 
warmest place we could select and, making a fire, we managed by its smoke, 
which had no vent, to raise the temperature to +20°, while outside it had 
fallen to —25°. We now cleaned our clothes as well as possible from the 
thick coating of snow-drift, and closing the entrance of the cave with 
blocks of snow, we crept into our blanket bags, and huddled close to- 
gether to endeavour to procure a little sleep. Our small dwelling had a 
very close feel, which was perhaps not a little augmented by the reflection 
that a spade alone could liberate us again after a night’s drift of snow; and 
our roof being two feet thick, and not of the most secure description, 
there was no small probability of its breaking down on us, in which case, 
confined as we were in our bags, and lying almost upon each other, we 
should have but little chance of extricating ourselves. 

‘* At daylight on the 16th we found the temperature at +26° until we dug 
out the entrance, when it fell to + 15°, while outside it was —25°. We again 
lighted our fire and, after sitting two hours in such thick black smoke that 
we could not see our feet, succecded in making some tea, which answered 
a double purpose, as it served to thaw some meat which was frozen in 
the canisters. At nine A.M. the gaie was unabated, and the drift as 


1822. 
March. 
wa 


Se ee ee 


al 
! 


192 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


severe as ever. The tent was half buried in the snow, and I set all hands 
to work at digging out the sledge, but it was so deeply sunk that our 
efforts were unsuccessful, and in the attempt our faces and extremities were 
most painfully frost-bitten. With all these difficulties before us, Mr. Palmer 
and myself consulted together as to whether it would be most prudent to 
endeavour to pass another night in our present precarious situation, or 
while we were yet able to walk make an attempt to reach the ships, which 
we supposc:t were about six miles from us. We could not see a yard of 
our way, yet to remain appeared worse than to go forward, which last plan 
was decided on. At thirty minutes past nine, having placed all our lug- 
gage in the tent, and erected a small flag over it, we set out, carrying a 
few pounds of bread, alittle rum, and aspade. The wind being now in our 
backs, we walked very briskly, and having an occasional glimpse of a very faint 
sun through the drift, managed to steer a tolerable course. James Carr 
having loitered a little behind us was suddenly missed, and by the most for- 
tunate chance we saw him running across our path in search of us; for had 
he been ten yards farther off he might have been lost. After walking several 
miles we came to grounded ice, and saw the tracks of Esquimaux men 
and dogs, but these were so confused that we knew not which marks to 
follow. 

‘* Not knowing on which side of the ships we had arrived, we feared to go to 
the southward or eastward, and accordingly went as nearly west as possible, 
in which direction we again crossed tracks. We now wandered amongst the 
heavy hummocks of ice without knowing which track to pursue, and, suffer- 
ing from cold, fatigue, and anxiety, were soon completely bewildered. Se- 
veral of our party began to exhibit symptoms of that horrid kind of insensi- 
bility which is the prelude to sleep. They all professed extreme willingness 
to do what they were told in order to keep in exercise, but none obeyed ; on 
the contrary they reeled about like drunken men. The faces of several 
were severely frost-bitten, and some had for a considerable time lost sensa- 
tion in their fingers and toes ; yet they made not the slightest exertion to rub 
the parts affected, and discontinued their geneval custom of warming each 
other on observing a discoloration of the skin. We continued for some 
time to employ them in building a snow-wall, ostensibly as a shelter from the 
wind, but in reality to give them exercise, for standing still must have proved 
fatal to men in our circumstances. My attention was particularly directed 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 193 


to Serjeant Spackman, who having been repeatedly warned that his nose 1822. 
was frozen had paid no attention to it, owing to the state of stupefaction ww 


into which he had fallen. The frost-bite had now extended over one side of 
his face, which was frozen as hard as a mask, the eye-lids were stiff, and one 
corner of the upper lip so drawn up as to expose the teeth and gums. My 
hands being still warm, i was enabled to restore the circulation, after which 
I used all my endeavours to keep him in motion, but he complained sadly of 
giddiness and dimness of sight, and was so weak as to be unable to walk of 
himself. His case was indeed so alarming, that I expected every moment he 
would lie down never tv rise again. Our prospect now became every 
moment more gloomy, and it was but too evident that four of our party could 
not survive another hour. Mr. Palmer, however, endeavoured with myself 
to cheer the people, but it was a faint attempt as we had not a single hope to 
give them. We had less reason to fear immediate danger to ourselves, in 
consequence of having fur coats instead of woollen ones. Every piece of 
ice, or even small rock or stone, was now taken for the ships; and we had 
great difficulty in preventing the men from running to the different objects 
which attracted them, and losing themselves in the drift. In this state, 
while Mr. Palmer was running round us to warm himself, he suddenly pitched 
on a new beaten track; and as exercise was indispensable, we determined on 
following it wherever it might lead us. Having taken the serjeant under 
my coat, he recovered a little and we moved onwards, when, only those who 
have been in a similar state of distress can imagine our joy at finding the path 
led to the ships, at which we arrived in about ten minutes, 

‘* John Lee had two of his fingers so badly frost-bitten as to lose a good 
deal of the flesh of the upper ends, and we were for many days in fear he 
would be obliged to have them amputated. Carr, who had been the most 
hardy while in the air, fainted twice on coming below; and all had severe 
frost-bites in different parts of the body, which recovered after the loss of skin 
usual in those cases.” 


Notwithstanding the inclemency of the weather, some of the Esquimaux 
had, by the foot and sledge marks, found their way to the ships on the morn- 


ing of the 16th, assuring us, as we found to be too true, that in consequence Sat. 16. 


of the gale which prevented their going out for seals they had not any food, 
nor a single lamp a-light at the village. In the course of the following day, 
2C 


1822. 
March 


° 
Sa”) 


Mon. 18. 


194 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


we had further proofs of the wretchedness which these poor people were en- 
during at the huts ; for, though the weather was very little better than before, 
above forty men and women besides some children came down to the ships, 
and begged with more than their usual earnestness for something to eat. It 
now once more became an act of humanity, and consequently of duty, to 
supply them as well as we were able ; and all were admitted to partake of as 
much bread-dust as they could eat, besides a quantity which they took away 
with them. It had been long since Okotook and Iligliuk cared to accept 
this kind of food from us, partly because our respect for the latter generally 
ensured them something better, and partly because of late they had procured 
plenty of seals; to-day, however, they devoured it eagerly, and seemed 
very well satisfied to take their share with the others. When the usual time 
of departure came, they all discovered a wish to remain on board ; but as we 
could not find lodging for the whole tribe, they were obliged very reluctantly 
to return. Nannow, a fine quiet young man whose native country is near 
Chesterfield Inlet, and who, having only a sister here, used to live with 
Okotook, begged very hard to remain on board, but as I did not like to give 
the preference to one in particular, he also took his leave. 

The wind abated towards night, after a gale which, both for duration and 
strength, might well be called equinoctial. The indications of the barometer 
on this occasion descrye to be noticed. The mercury had fallen with un- 
usual rapidity from 29.46 inches at four P.M. on the 14th, to 28.80 at eight 
A.M. on the ldth, at which time the gale may be said to have commenced. 
What was remarkable, however, is that this was its minimum, and that from 
this time the mercury almost constantly, though very slowly, rose to 29.19 
on the evening of the 17th, when the wind moderated. On the following 
day, the 18th, when the weather was quite fine, the barometer rose very 
quickly to 29.84 at midnight, and continued to rise till it had reached its 
maximum, 30 inches, on the evening of the 19th. It may be interesting to 
notice that, during this three days’ gale, which was certainly well calculated 
to try the merits of our warming stove, the mean temperature of the Fury’s 
lower deck had been from 58° to 62°, and that the thermometer had never 
stood lower than 56°. The temperature of the sick-bay was always above 60°. 

On the 18th, almost every man from the huts was out seal-hunting, and 
three or four, as the women informed us, had gone to a considerable distance 
for walruses, and with the intention of remaining out for the night in a snow 
hut. While the men were thus employed, their wives did not fail to use 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 195 


their endeavours also to procure food ; and I believe that every female be- 
longing to the village, without a single exception, made her appearance at 
the ships to-day, and was supplied with a proportion of bread-dust for her 
family. It was pleasing to observe, that they were always punctual in re- 
turning the buckets and bags which we lent them for carrying out their 
provisions. 

The fact of our ships not having required pumping out, either here or at 
Melville Island, for several months together during the winter, naturally 
led me to consider what was likely to be the reason of this extraordinary 
tightness. . It is true indeed, that after the first winter a certain quantity of 
ice was subsequently found mixed with the coals which composed our bal- 
last, but this quantity re a trifling proportion to the ten or twelve inches 
of water which founu its way into the pump-well daily throughout the sum- 
mer. It appears probable, therefore, that any small leak through which the 
water only slowly filters may become altogether stopped by its freezing, 
whenever the temperature of the hold has fallen a few degrees below the 
freezing-point of sea-water. For the latter being already cooled down as 
low as in its fluid state it can be, will very readily freeze when, by its 
entrance into the ship, it meets with a greater degree of cold, especially if 
(as is very frequently the case) the leak should be about a metal bolt which, 
by its conducting property, would very much favour the process of con- 
gelation. 


We had clear and very moderate weather on the 20th, and yet the ther- Wed. 20. 


mometer fairly exposed to the sun’s rays rose only to —5°, or about 12° 
higher than in the shade, and this with the sun twelve hours above the 
horizon, and 24° high at noon. At night it blew a strong breeze from the 
W.N.W., with considerable drift, notwithstanding which it is remarkable 
that the mercury in the barometer remained at 29.80 inches, without the 
alteration of a single hundredth part from ten P.M. on the 20th till four 
A.M. on the 22d, being an interval of thirty hours. Except the breeze 
above mentioned, which continued strong for four or five hours, the 
weather was fine during this interval, and remained so for several days 
afterwards. 

A deeper drift of snow had collected round the ships during the last week, 
and particularly at the time of the gales, than in the whole of the preceding 
part of the winter. _On one side of the Hecla was a bank seven or eight feet 
deep, in which the men amused themselves by excavating houses, with large 
2c2 


IMAGE EVALUATION 
TEST TARGET (MT-3) 


23 WEST MAIN STREET 
WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 
(716) 672-4503 


tion 


+ = = 


2 
= 


<= 


Mon, 25, 


196 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


vaulted apartments like catacombs. The quantity of snow, however, around 
the ships was never so great here as at Melville Island, in consequence of the 
less frequent drifts, though its depth on shore and therefore the whole quan- 
tity that fell was greater. 

The weather continued very fine for several days about this period, the 
wind being from the north-west, and the thermometer from — 8° to — 24°. 
On the 25th some. clear water opening now and then off the south-east point, 
I sent Mr. Ross in the small boat to endeavour to kill some dovekies, of which 
he procured one or two specimens. These birds and the ravens were the 
only ones that kept us, company occasionally throughout the winter. 

The endeavours we had lately been making to gain from the Esquimaux 
some knowledge of the geographical features of the land to the northward, 
had at length been crowned with even greater success than we had antici- 
pated, and some information of a very gratifying and interesting nature thus 
ovtained. I shall here, therefore, give some account of that information, 
and of the progressive steps by which it was communicated, which may, at 
the same time, serve to, shew the kind and degree of dependence that is to 
be placed in geographical notices thus obtained. 

The first attempt made in this way, was by placing several sheets of paper 
before Iligliuk, and roughly drawing on a large scale an outline of the land 
about Repulse Bay and Lyon Inlet, and terminating at our present winter- 
quarters, If information and not mere curiosity be the object, this in my 
opinion is an indispensable precaution ; for that object can hardly be so well 
obtained by leaving a savage to puzzle his way over fifty leagues of coast 
already known, when by delineating it with tolerable accuracy, his concep- 
tions, instead of being confused, may be assisted. Iligliuk was not long in 
comprehending what we desired, and with a pencil continued the outline, 
making the land trend as we supposed to the north-eastward, and giving 
the names of the principal places as she proceeded, The scale being large, 
it was necessary when she came to the end of one piece of paper to tack on 
another, till at length she had filled ten or twelve sheets, and had completely 
lost sight of Winter Island (called Neyining-Eit-diid) at the other end of the 
table. The idea entertained from this first attempt was, that we should find 
the coast indented by several inlets and in some parts much loaded with ice, 
especially at one strait to the northward of her native island Amitioke, which 
seemed to lead in a direction very much to the westward. 

Within a week after this, several other charts were drawn by the natives 


ayan -taghriccak 
nn, Beyond snes [open Nea Ane lane 
ney 


yaks are hen ese 
SKE A 


la tighmain 
Lgnighritt CC Ctnutn ag hire 

BM 00-00- KA 
nae ar 


ey “ 
LIGL LIOR. 


inte Island, 


—1822 — 
Lhe Original in the 


= y 3 Po SSC ESCO g 
Migiak s birch piace Cap’ ” Lyon. 


AMITTIOKE 


wheat ron aor here 
Bech lL acied ¢ calet 


N3. The marks © are sleeping places ,or one 
day's journey each, and the dotted line is 
the track onthe ice. 
The mode of travelling is by sledges on 
the ice,and resting for the night on shore 


Y 
Mountanous 


MALLOOKHIRTA 


(nhatbilea 


0 ualaghriona KA 


09.7 arn on / ES Fs Stones 


Lhe SRews Stem from 
Ore buy ¢ vA locd 


oka coeds ¢ Cantey J 
+ ah 
pelt 
oe 
y Ww 
J 


rou 


as 
Monta! 


LHRH AT EH 


C Mitinandes Lahegraphe 
¥ 


emt aininae etnetiinainsGi de na 5 


Ss Ff 3 ee lhl Cle 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 197 


in a similar way, principally by the desire of Captain Lyon and Mr. 
Griffiths, who took great pains to acquire information of this nature, and 
sent me copies of these productions. The coast was here delineated as 
before, on a very large scale, but much more in detail, many more islands, 
bays; and names being inserted. It was observable, however, that no two 
charts much resembled each other, and that the greater number of them still 
less resembled the truth in those parts of the coast with which we were 
well acquainted. The only one deserving further notice in this place was 
drawn by Lligliuk for Captain Lyon, of which an accurate reduction is here 
given, and marked No. 1., the scale being about one-twelfth of that of the 
original, 

On an inspection of this curious chart, it will appear evident that, with 
respect to the relative geographical position of the lands beyond us, (which 
was in fact the only very interesting question we desired them to solve,) 
it was calculated to give us ideas which our subsequent experience proved 
to be erroneous ;. making, for instance, the direction nearly the same from 
Repulse Bay to Winter Island, as from the latter to Amitioke, though they 
are in fact exactly at right angles. Being extremely desirous of obtaining 
more certain information on this part of the subject, it occurred to me 
to attempt the thing with Iligliuk on a smaller scale, such as might enable 
her to keep in view at the same time every part of the coast to be delineated. 
This attempt was also much favoured by our having lately obtained the Es- 
quimaux words for the four cardinal points of the horizon, which were, there- 
fore, previously laid down by lines on the chart, Having, in addition. to 
this, delineated the usual portion of the coast, and made Iligliuk ‘ box the 
compass” repeatedly, so as to render her quite familiar with the exact rela- 
tive position of the lands we had laid down, we desired her to complete the 
rest, and: to do it mitkee (small), when, with a countenance of the most grave 
attention and peculiar intelligence, she drew the coast of the continent 
beyond her own country, as lying nearly north, instead of east, from 
Winter Island. The most important part still remained, and it would have 
amused an unconcerned looker-on to have observed the anxiety and sus- 
pense depicted on the countenances of our part of the group, till this 
was accomplished, for never were the tracings of a pencil watched with more 
eager solicitude. Our surprise and satisfaction may therefore, in some de- 
gree, be imagined when, without taking:it from the paper, Lligliuk brought the 


Rat ae nn 


198 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


continental coast short round to the westward, and afterwards to the S.S.W., 
so as to come within three or four days’ journey of Repulse Bay. The coun- 
try thus situated upon the shores of the Western or Polar Sea is called 
Akkoolee, and is inhabited by numerous Esquimaux ; and half-way between 
that coast and Repulse Bay Iligliuk drew a lake of considerable size, having 
small streams running from it to the sea on each side. To this lake her 
countrymen are annually in the habit of resorting during the summer, and 
catch there large fish of the salmon kind, while on the banks are found 
abundance of rein-deer. To the westward of Akkoolee, as far as they can 
see from the hills, which she described as high ones, nothing can be distin- 
guished but one wide-extended sea. Being desirous of seeing whether 
Iligliuk would interfere with Wager River, as we know it to exist, I re- 
quested her to continue the coast-line to the southward of Akkoolee, when 
she immediately dropped the pencil, and said she knew no more about it. 
A few days after this, Ewerat drew a chart exactly corresponding with Ilig- 
liuk’s in all mate:ial points, and every subsequent conversation with these 
people served to confirm this interesting information. A copy of Iligliuk’s 
second chart, being about half the size of the original, is here annexed, the 
unshaded parts of the coast being those previously laid down for her, and 
the rest her own performance. 

The new and satisfactory prospect thus unexpectedly opened to us, of our 
soon rounding the north-eastern point of America, recalled to my mind two 
circumstances that had occurred during the examination of Lyon Inlet, in the 
preceding autumn. The first was that, on the 9th of September, when on 
the summit of the high hill which I ascended, I noticed a brightness in the 
western sky so much resembling ice-blink, that I remarked it to the:men 
who were with me, and afterwards to Mr. Ross on my return to the ‘tents. 
The second circumstance now alluded to is, that, from a still higher hill, to 
which I despatched Messrs. Ross and Bushnan on the 13th, they saw a great 
deal of water to the W.N.W., with islands and capes ; but, as the sun had 
just set, they could make out nothing more. As we had already determined 
by the closest examination, that there was here no communication with it, 
and as no idea could be entertained of the sea being only at the distance of 
ten or twelve leagues in that direction, I came to the conclusion that it could 
only be a lake of larger dimensions than the numberless others with which 
this country is covered. I had now, however, not the smallest doubt that it 


{s hi Lan 
ms a. 
(thes aa 


t lo Land te the 


Sew from 


, Seals. by 
Nadruges nor j 


WA (Wee ¢/ 


Mvetion they then de 
WMA ner Indian 
"MING ne froal 


oO KZ & 


he Whales nor Walrises 


Soir li Zand seen tn : 
* (this directeon/. : , R 


4 J PSKIMAUX CHART. 


( \ 4 - 
¥ 1 any , 
al be 
4 ys a t vo 
\ w 8 ° Q.2-- 
A | 
© 7 Lhe 


yrP2 — 


Lhe shaded parts druwn 


by LLIGLIU HK at 


line ter Island 


1822 —_ee 


Originad in the Fossession of 


Cap” Parry 


Catt Ae. a fetal 


4G 
% mah i” a Se Sh vfs CE 


Imad? Bays ordntet, oy 


Ligh Zand, 


Wh 0a thes 
pay orlnied 


alt Water/[Varrickey ff 


Ay i 
f A 
erect me meen ning Ce 
e Nostward . IN 
4 tk 
i \ 
K \, MALLUNESITONE J) 1% 
. ‘ 
Je Land to the Westward: arge Ta ke eg "Fresh Mier y LN 
Seen from the faus' Sp wh and Leer | zi 
Ju Milis Jvtod 5 5 nb ty 5 yeh teaded Poa 
Manybrdiinenn. ie, cw 
Astone ra > (| le Ve 4 
qyanen dua 
_ deals. bet no F » Re otrypeseens a: o” ileum Wand 
Natruges nor Whales cdsdestos tinend a 0.4 
’ cow Zand Q 


Mack Coon 
AIWITLLIN 


de dbestos 
Reve 
% 
A 
m 
wh (Me st) 
netten they thend os, ee . 
Arwen nor Indians ™ a . 
gre food i 
“ 4 


Vannews Country 
boowoed further south 


( Muitmandeds Lithography 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 199 


was the sea which our gentlemen had then seen, and that both this, and the Moc 
blink observed by myself, might be considered as confirming very satisfac- w~ 
torily the accounts given by the Esquimaux. 

The barometer rose to 30.41 inches in the night, being the maximum indica- 
tion registered since the 18th of Septemoer preceding. It was so far, however, 
from being the precursor of any thing unusually fine in the weather, that it 
blew a fresh breeze from the W.N.W. on the 26th, which was followed by over- Tues. 26. 
cast weather and small snow. To this succeeded a gale from the northward, 
which came on with considerable violence on the 27th, and continued to Wed. 97. 
blow incessantly during the two following days, accompanied by a high 
snow-drift. The inclemency of the weather preventing the Esquimaux from 
going out to fish, they were once more badly off for food and fuel. <A ge- 
neral supply of bread-dust was therefore furnished them from the ships, 
which they now had learned to consider so much a thing of course, that few 
of them thought it necessary even to go through the forms of their accus- 
tomed Coyennd (thanks). Siokobeut, alias the Commodore, was detected in 
stealing a piece of beef from the Hecla’s quarter, placing his little boy 
Toonek to look out for any person coming. I do not know whether hunger 
may not be considered some excuse for this act of petty larceny, but at the 
time we thought it aggravated, in some degree, by their having just before 
been fed with bread-dust on board. 

When the weather moderated, which was not till the night of the 29th, 
we found that the ice had once more separated in the offing, and had even 
made some encroachments into the bay, the open water being now within 
two hundred paces of the ships’ sterns. It is certain indeed that, but for 
the numerous grounded masses which had fixed themselve : ound the shores 
of the bay, and which like so many piles held fast the floc into which we 
were frozen, we should long ere this time have been drifted out to sea by 
the total disruption of the ice from this part of the land. This observation 
is only meant to apply to a bay which, like our present one, is in the imme- 
diate neighbourhood of a part of the sea that, from some local cause, is 
frequently open during the winter, and where very high and rapid tides 
greatly favour the separation of ice from the shores. Where on the con- 
trary the tides’ are small, there is reason to believe that a ship once frozen 
into a bay in these regions, however exposed it may be, may be just as se- | 
cure during the winter as in the most sheltered harbour, : 
As a method, and the only one that occurred to me, of trying the average Sun. 31. 


1822, 
March, 
aS) 


200 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


depth of snow that had fallen at this period, I caused it to be accurately mea- 
sured as it lay on the level surface of the ice in the bay in twenty-two dif- 
ferent places, where there was no obstacle to create a drift. The mean 
depth thus obtained was four inches and a half, which, however, when com- 
pared with that on shore, even in parts the least likely to collect a drift, 
appeared too small by half to be taken as a measure of the actual quantity 
that had fallen. The fact seems to be that, while the irregularities of the 
surface on shore prevent the possibility of judging of this with any great 
accuracy, the smoothness and uniformity of the surface of the ice present 
an equal difficulty, though in a contrary way ; a very moderate breeze being 
sufficient during some months of the winter to carry it from the place where 
it has fallen, unless it has time to consolidate itself before the coming on of 
a breeze strong enough to disturb it. 

The appearance of the Aurora Borealis was less frequent during March 
than in the preceding winter months, in consequence of the increased dura- 
tion of daylight at this period. Whatever slight variations might exist in 
these appearances, it still continued a matter of constant remark to us, that 
the phenomenon almost invariably commenced in the south-eastern quarter 
of the heavens; and it is perhaps worthy of notice that the same thing was 
observed by Crantz in Greenland*. The arch-like form assumed by the 
Aurora was also one of its almost invariable peculiarities ; the legs ofthe 
arch being usually situated somewhere between the east and west points of 
the horizon, and almost always occupying the southern side of the heavens. 
The only instance of this phenomenon during the month of March, deserving 
particular description, occurred on the evening of the 30th, when it made its 
appearance as usual in the south-eastern horizon, from whence it soon diffused 
itself in a low but tolerably regular arch extending to the W.S.W. Again 
at times it altogether vanished, and then as suddenly re-appeared much in 
the same situation as before. We often fancied that this phenomenon exhi- 
bited a light of greater actual intensity when the moon was above the hori- 
zon than at other times, though its appearance was of course less splendid 
on that account. Whether this was in reality the case or not, we had no 
means of correctly judging ; but some idea of its brightness may be formed 
from the circumstance of its being often very distinctly visible when the 


* See Crantz, i. 48, whose very words would truly describe what we so frequently noticed 
during this winter. 


a = =~ FY SS OOS 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 201 


moon was between her quarters and the full.’ The electrometer was tried 1822. 
: : : We ss ‘ April. 

during the continuance of this evening’s Aurora, but no effect was perceptible wy~w 
either on that or a Kater’s compass. 

On the 2d of April a thin sheet of bay-ice several miles square had formed Tues. 2. 
on the sea to the eastward and southward, where for two or three days past 
there had been a space of open water. This was occasioned more by the wind 
remaining very moderate, and the neap-tides occurring about this time, than 
from any great degree of cold, the thermometer seldom falling below — 6° or 
—7°. The wind, however, scttling in the south-east to-day, the main body 
of ice, which had been scarcely visible in the offing, soon began to move 
in-shore, forcing before it the young floe and squeezing it up into innumer- 
able hummocks, which presently being cemented together by a fresh forma- 
tion in their interstices, constituted an example of one of the ways in which 
these ‘hummocky floes” are produced, of which I have before so often had 
occasion to speak. We were always glad to see this squeezing process take 
place while the ice was still thin enough to admit of it; as it thus became 
compressed perhaps into one-fiftieth part of the compass that it would other- 
wise have occupied, and of course left so much the more open space upon the 
surface of the sea. The temperature of the water at the bottom in eight 
fathoms was to-day 28°, being the same as that of the surface. 

Early in the morning the Esquimaux had been observed in motion 
at the huts; and several sledges drawn by dogs and heavily laden went 
off to the westward. On going out to the village, we found one-half of the 
people had quitted their late habitations, taking with them every article of 
their property, and had gone over the ice, we knew not where, in quest 
of*more abundant food. The wretched appearance which the interior 
of the huts now presented baffles all description. In each of the larger 
ones some of the apartments were either wholly or in part deserted, the 
very snow which composed the beds and fire-places having been turned 
up, that no article might be left behind. Even the bare walls, whose 
original colour was scarcely perceptible for lamp-black, blood, and other 
filth, were not left perfect, large holes having been made in the sides and 
roofs for the convenience of handing out the goods and chattels. The sight 
of a deserted habitation is at all times calculated to excite in the mind a 
sensation of dreariness and desolation, especially when we have lately seen it 
filled with cheerful inhabitants; but the feeling is even heightened rather 


than diminished when a small portion of these inhabitants remain behind to 
2D 


ABSTRACT of the METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL kept on board His Majesty’s Ship 
Fury, at Winter Island, during the Month of March, 1822. 


Fahrenheit’s 


Thermometer. Winds. 


Barometer. Prevailing 


H 


Maxi- | Mini- 


ratureof Lower 


Mean Tempe- 


Maxie 
mums 


inches, 


29.90 
29.85 
29.52 
29.67 


20.82 | 


30.15 
30.31 
30.31 
29.72 
29.92 
30.00 
30.07 
29.90 
29.47 
28.97 
29.15 
29.27 


29.84 | 


80.00 
29.96 
29.80 
29.94 
30.06 
30.22 
30.41 
30.41 
30.20 
29.57 


29.10 | 


29.33 
29.35) 


80.41 


Mini. 
mun. 


inches. 


29.24 | 


29.27 
29.58 
29.63 
29.87 


29.80 


Mean. 


inches, 


29.535, 
29.399 
29.633 
29.693 
30.047 
30.258 
30.087 
29.508 
29.758 
29.978 
30.017 
20.575 
29.348 
28.850 


| Prevailing 


West 
ESE 
North 
NW 
NNW 
NW 
SW 
SW 


SSWround 
byWtoNW 


NW 
NNW 
NW 
WbN 
North: 


NW 
WNW 
WNW 
WNW 

NW 
North 
WNW 
WNW 
North 
NNE 
NNE 

NbE 

NW 


fresh 
strong 
strong 

light 

light 


light | 


strong 


fresh 


t fresh 


fresh 
light 
mod 
squalls 
at 


times 
light 


light. 
fresh 

and 
aquaile: 
light 


light 


light | 


light 
modt. 
light 
strong 
strong 
modt, 
light 


Weather. 


Qi 
Direction. = 
SE 


SD cE 


fine 
hazy and drift 
hazy and drift 
clear 
clear 
clear 
cloudy and drift 
cloudy 
hazy and snow 
cloudy 
cloudy 
clear 
cloudy 
fine 
hazy and drift 
hazy and much drift 
cloudy 


clear 


cloudy and small snow 
fine 
fine 
hazy and small'snow. 
hazy and drift 
much drift. 
hazy and drift 
cloudy 


SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY. 203 


endure the wretchedness which such a scene exhibits. This was now the 
case at the village where, though the remaining tenants of each hut had com- 
bined to occupy one of the apartments, a great part of the bed-places were 
still bare and the wind and drift blowing in through the holes which they 
had not yet taken the trouble to stop up. The old man Hikkeiera and his 
wife occupied a hut by themselves, without any lamp or a single ounce 
of meat belonging to them ; while three small skins on which the former was 
lying, were all that they possessed in the way of blankets. Upon the whole, 
I never beheld a more miserable spectacle, and it seemed a charity to hope 
that a violent and constant cough with which the old man was afflicted would 
speedily combine with his age and infirmities to release him from his present 
sufferings. Yetin the midst of all this he was even cheerful, nor was there 
a gloomy countenance to be seen at the village. Almost all the men were 
out; and some of them had been led so far to sea upon the’ floating and 
detached masses of ice in pursuit of walruses, that Captain Lyon, who 
observed their situation from the ships, had it in contemplation, in the course 
of the evening, to launch one of the small boats to go to their assistance. 
They seemed however to entertain no apprehensions themselves, from a 
confidence perhaps that the south-east wind might be depended upon 
for keeping the ice close home upon the shore. It is certain, notwith- 
standing, that no degree of precaution, nor any knowledge of the winds and 
tides, can render this otherwise than a most perilous mode of obtaining sub- 
sistence; and it was impossible therefore not to admire the fearlessness as 
well as dexterity with which the Esquimaux invariably pursued it. 

Having distributed some bread-dust among the women, we told old 
Illumea and her daughter Togolat that we proposed taking up our lodging 
in their hut for the night. It is a remarkable trait in the character of these 
people, that they always thank you heartily for this, as well as for eating 
any of their meat; but both board and lodging may be given to them 
without receiving the slightest acknowledgment either in word or deed. As 
it was late before the men returned, I asked Togolat to get the rest of the 
women to perform some of their games, with the hope of seeing something 
that was new. I had scarcely time to make the proposal when she darted out 
of the hut, and quickly brought every female that was left at the village, not 
excepting even the oldest of them, who joined in the performance with the 
same alacrity as the rest. I could however only persuade them to go through 
a tedious song we had often before heard, which was now indeed somewhat 

2D2 


1822, 
April. 
w~ 


1822. 


April. 
wore 


204 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


modified by their insisting on our taking our turns in the performance, all 
which did not fail to create among them never-ceasing merriment and laughter. 
Neither their want of food and fuel, nor the uncertain prospect of obtaining 
any that night, were sufficient to deprive these poor creatures of that cheer- 
fulness and good-humou: which it seems at all times their peculiar happiness 
to enjoy. 

The night proved very thick with small snow, and as disagreeable and 
dangerous for people adrift upon floating ice as can well be imagined. If the 
women however gave their husbands a thought or spoke of them to us, it was 
only to express a very sincere hope that some good news might shortly arrive 
of their success. Our singing-party had not long been broken up when it 
was suddenly announced by one of the children, the usual heralds %n such 
occasions, that the men had killed something on the ice. The only two men 
who were at home instantly scrambled on their outer jackets, harnessed their 
dogs, and sect off to assist their companions in bringing home the game, while 
the women remained for an hour in anxious suspense as to the extent of their 
husbands’ success. At length one of the men arrived with the positive intel- 
ligence of two walruses having been taken, and brought with him a portion 
of these huge animals as large as he could drag over the snow. If the 
women were only cheerful before, they were now absolutely frantic. A 
general shout of joy instantly re-echoed through the village; they ran into 
each other’s huts to communicate the welcome intelligence, and actually 
hugged one another in an ecstacy of delight by way of congratulation. One 
of them Arnaléod, a pretty young woman of nineteen or. twenty, knowing 
that a dog belonging to her husband was still at the huts, and that there was 
no man to take him down on the ice, ran out instantly to perform that office ; 
and with a hardiness not to be surpassed by any of the men returned, 
after two hours’ absence, with her load of walrus-flesh, and without even 
the hood thrown over her head to shelter her from the inclemency of the 
weather. 

When the first burst of joy had at length subsided, the women crept one by 
one into the apartment where the first portion of the sea-horses had been 
conveyed, and which is always that of one of the men immediately concerned 
in the killing of them. Here they obtained blubber enough to set all their 
lamps alighi, besides a few scraps of meat for their children and themselves. 
From this time, which was nine o'clock, till past midnight, fresh cargoes were 
continually arriving ; the principal part being brought in by the dogs, and 


=e: oe sews sas ts ClUhelC DUC 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 205 


the rest by the men, who, tying the thong which held it round their waist, April | 
dragged in each his separate portion. Before the whole was brought in how- ~~~ 
ever, some of them went out three times to the scene of action though the 
distance was a mile and a half. 

Every lamp now swimming with oil, the huts exhibited a blaze of light, Wed. 3d. 
and never was there a scene of more joyous festivity than while the opera- 
tion of cutting up the walruses continued. I took the opportunity which 
their present good humour afforded, to obtain a perfect head and tusks of 
one of these animals, which we had not been able to do before ; and indeed, 
so much were their hearts opened by the scene of abundance before them, 
that I believe they would have given us any thing we asked fer. This dis-' 
position was considerably increased also by their taking it into their heads, 
that their success was in some way or other connected with, or even owing 
to, our having taken up our night’s lodging at the huts. 

After viewing all this festivity for some time, I felt disposed to rest ; and 

wrapping myself up in my fur coat, lay down on one of the beds which Ilumea 
had given up for our accommodation, as well as her keipik, or large deer-skin 
blanket, which she rolled up for my pillow. The poor old woman herself 
sat up by her lamp, and in that posture seemed perfectly well satisfied to 
doze away the night. The singularity of my night’s lodging made me 
awake several times, when I always found some of the Esquimaux cating, 
though after we lay down they kept quite quiet for fear of disturbing us. 
Mr. Halse, who was still more wakeful, told me that some of them were 
incessantly employed in this manner for more than three hours. Indeed the 
quantity of meat that they thus contrive to get rid of is almost beyond 
belicf. 

Having at length enjoyed a sound nap, I found on awaking about five 
o’clock that the men were already up, and had gone out to renew their 
labours on the ice, so that several of them could not have rested more than 
two or three hours. . This circumstance served to correct a notion we had 
entertained, that when once abundantly supplied with food they took no 
pains to obtain more till want began again to stare them in the face. It was 
now more pleasing to be assured that, even in the midst of plenty, they did 
not indolently give themselves up to repose, but were willing to take advan- Fi 
tage of every favourable opportunity of increasing their store. It is certain | 
indeed that were these people more provident, (or in other words less glut- 
tonous,; for they do not waste much,) they might never know what it is to 


1822. 
April. 


206 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


want provisions, even during the most inclement part of the year. The 


ww state of the ice was to-day very unfavourable for their purpose, being broken 


Thur. 4. 


Frid. 5. 


into pieces so small that they could scarcely venture to walk upon it. 

The phenomenon frequently observed at Melville Island in the spring, 
of the white clouds assuming the form of two continuous arches, with their 
legs meeting near the east and west horizons, was finely displayed on the 
4th, the height of the arches in the centre, from the north and south 
horizons, being from 50° to 70°. It was now more than a month since our 
washed clothes had in part been dried by exposure to the sun’s rays under 
the ship’s stern, which however it required two days of fine weather to 
effect. As this space was small, and it was of importance to get rid as 
soon as possivle of the drying process on the lower-deck, we now built 
upon the ice a thick wall of snow, seven feet high, thirty yards in length, 
and exactly facing the south. Against this, though not touching it, was 
suspended a long black-painted cloth, which absorbed so much heat from 
the sun’s rays that the clothes hung before it on lines were dried in a 
few hours, though the thermometer in the shade was only from 5° to 9° 
above zero. 

The morning of the 5th proved favourable for a journey I had in contem- 
plation to the distant huts, to which Iligliuk, who haci come to Winter 
Island the day before, promised to be my guide. At six o’clock I set out, 
accompanied by Mr, Bushnan and two of the men, carrying with us a supply 
of bread-dust besides our own provisions and blankets. As the distance 
was too great for her son Sioutkuk to walk, we were uncertain till the 
moment of setting out how this was to be managed, there being no sledge 
at hand for the purpose. We found however that a man, whom we had ob- 
served for some time at work among the hummocks of ice upon the beach, 
had been employed in cutting out of that abundant material a neat and 
serviceable little sledge, hollowed like a bowl or tray out of a solid block, 
and smoothly rounded at the bottom. The thong to which the dogs were 
attached was secured to a groove cut round its upper edge ; and the young 
seal-catcher, seated in this simple vehicle, was dragged along with great 
convenience and comfort. 

The ice over which we travelled was a level floe that had never suffered 
disturbance since its first formation in the autumn, and with not more than 
an inch and a half of snow upon it. The path being distinctly marked out by 
the people, sledges, and dogs, that had before travelled upon it, one might, 


a 


? 


ptt 


i 
7 
z 
— 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 207 


without any great stretch of the imagination, have almost fancied it a road 
leading over a level and extensive heath towards a more civilized and sub- 
stantial village than that which we were now approaching. Iligliuk walked 
as nimbly as the best of us; and after two hours and a half brisk travelling, 
we arrived at the huts, and were received by the women (for all the men 
were absent) with every expression of kindness and welcome. Each was 
desirous of affording us lodging, and we had speedily arranged matters so as 
to put them to the least possible inconvenience. 

These huts, four in number, were in the mode of their construction exact 
counterparts of those at Winter Island on our first visit, but being now new 
and clean, presented a striking contrast with the latter, in their present 
disordered and filthy state. What gave a peculiarity as well as beauty also 
to the interior appearance of these habitations, was their being situated 
on the ice, which being cleared of the snow, presented a flooring of that 
splendid blue which is, perhaps, one of the richest colours that nature 
affords. A seat or two having been lately procured, every lamp was now 
blazing, and every cotkdoseék smoking with a hot mess which, together with 
the friendly reception we experienced and a little warmth and fatigue from 
travelling, combined in conveying to our minds an idea of comfort which we 
could scarcely believe an Esquimaux hut capable of exciting. 

On the arrival of the men, who came in towards evening, with two seals 
as the reward of their labour, we were once more greeted and welcomed. 
Arnaneelia in particular, who was a quiet, obliging, and even amiable man, 
was delighted to find that my quarters were to be in his apartment, where 
Anéétka, his wife, a young woman of about twenty-three, had already ar- 
ranged every thing for my accommodation ; and both these poor people now 
vied with each other in their attention to my comfort. The other two apart- 
ments of the same hut were occupied by Kaoongut and Okotook, with their 
respective wives and families ; it being the constant custom of these people 
thus to unite in family groups, whenever the nature of their habitations 
will allow it. Mr. Bushnan being established with Okotook, and the two 
men with Kaoongut, we were thus all comfortably lodged under the same 
roof. 

Toolooak having been concerned in killing one of the seals just brought 
in, it fell to his mother’s lot to dissect it, the neitick being the only animal 
which the women are permitted to cut up. We had therefore an opportu- 
nity of sceing this filthy operation once more performed, and entirely by the 


1822, 


April. 
ww 


Sat. 6. 


208 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


old lady herself, who was soon up to her elbows in blood and oil, Before a 


-knife is put into the animal, as it lies on its back, they pour a little water into 


its mouth, and touch each flipper and the middle of the belly with a:little lamp- 


black and oil taken from the under part of the lamp. What benefit was ex- 


pected from this preparatory ceremony we could not learn, but it was done 
with a degree of superstitious care and seriousness that bespoke its indis- 
pensable importance. The boys came eagerly into the hut as usual, and held 
out their foreheads for the old woman to stick the charms upon them ; and it 
was not till now that we learned from Iligliuk the efficacy of this very useful 
custom. As soon as this dirty operation was at an end, during which the nu- 
merous by-standers amused themselves in chewing the intestines of the seal, 
the strangers retired to their own huts, each bearing a small portion of the 
flesh and blubber, while our hosts enjoyed a hearty meal of boiled meat 
and hot gravy soup. Young Sioutkuk ate at least three pounds of solid 
meat in the first three hours after our arrival at the huts, besides a tolerable 
proportion of soup, all which his mother gave him whenever he asked it 
without the smallest remark of any kind. We now found that they depended 
on catching seals alone for their subsistence, there being no walruses in this 
neighbourhood. As they were several miles from any. open water, their 
mode of killing them was entirely confined to watching for the animals 
coming up in the holes they make through the ice. 

In the course of the evening, our conversation happened to turn on the 
Indians, a people whom none of these Esquimaux had ever scen; but with 
whose ferocity and decided hostility to their own nation they seemed to be 
well acquainted. They described also their peculiar manner of paddling 
their canoes, and were aware that they made use of the kind of snow- 
shoes which we shewed them. When I related to them as well as I was 
able the massacre of the Esquimaux recorded by Hearne, and gave them 
to understand that the Indians spared neither sex nor age, it seemed 
to chill them with horror, and I was almost sorry that I had told them the 
story. 

The weather proved very thick on the 6th, with a heavy fall of snow, the 
wind still blowing however from the N.N.W., and increasing almost to a 
gale in the course of the day ; so that when we set out on our xeturn we could 
scarcely distinguish an object an hundred yards before us. Toolooak was 
deputed to accompany us with a sledge for carrying our baggage; and after 
some difficulty we contrived to get sight of the island, and arrived on board 


as «e- fe ff = lol 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 209 


before noon. I found from Captain Lyon that nothing worthy of notice had 
occurred during my absence. The temperature of the atmosphere seemed 
now to have taken a favourable turn, the thermometer keeping up to zero, or 
above it, even with a northerly or north-west wind: we were therefore 
enabled for the first time permanently to reduce the consumption of coals in 
each ship, the lower-decks being now much too hot when the winter’s propor- 
tion was expended. 

On the 7th, which was Easter-Sunday, a dinner of English beef was directed 
to be served, being part of that which was killed when the Nautilus left us. 
As we were apprehensive that this meat might be injured as the warmer 
weather advanced, we issued what remained in the course of the spring, 
except enough for one more Christmas dinner. 


1822. 
April. 
wee 


Sun, 7. 


On the morning of the 8th, the thermometer was observed to fall from 6° Mon. 8. 


to 2° immediately on a partial clearing of the atmosphere, and again to rise, 
on its becoming overcast, to 10°, the wind continuing the same both in direc- 
tion and strength. It shifted in the evening to the eastward, accompanied 
by a fall of small snow, which continued the whole of the two following days. 


On the 11th a difference was observed in the indications of the two thermo- Thur. 11. 


meters on the ice, the reverse of that which generally took place. 


North Thermometer. South Thermometer. 
o 
At noon ; 20 ’ ° ll 
» 1 P.M. ° 23 ‘ . 13 
» 2 P.M. ‘ 135. ‘ 18 


The wind was light from the W.S.W. during this time, and though it blew 
rather on the south than on the north side of the post, this seemed by no 
means sufficient to account for the difference, as even a strong breeze does 
not usually produce such an effect on a thermometer in the shade, though 
very sensible to the feelings. There was no snow on either of the bulbs, 
except a little which continued to fall, and the sun was peeping out at 
times during the interval. A similar difference was again noticed a day or 
two after, 


h. m. North Thermometer. South Thermometer. 
° 
At o 15 P.M. 4 30 : is 
» O80 ,, . 24 ° 21 
» 2 O y ° 28 . 14 
» 6 0 y ° 10 ° 4 


The wind was very light from the east and south-east, with small snow, and 
2E 


210 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


the weather quite overcast, except towards six P.M. For two hours in the 


wy~ forenoon, when the sun made an effort to appear, a parhelion, tinged with 


the prismatic colours, appeared on each side of it ; and nearer to that object 
by 30’ was a halo of 22° 35' radius, also coloured, the red tint being as usual 
next the sun. An instance or two of the parhelion being situated without 
the circle have been mentioned * as occurring at Melville Island, but the 
phenomenon appears to be a rare one. 

- We were now glad to begin making some shew of re-equipping the ships 
for sea; for though this was a business that might if necessary have been very 
well accomplished in two or three weeks, it was better to employ the men in 
occupations having an evident and determinate object, than in those less 
obviously useful ones to which it was necessary to resort during the winter. 
We therefore brought down some of the boats to the ships to repair, put up 
the forge on the ice, and built a snow-house over it, and set about various 
other jobs, which made the neighbourhood of the ships assume a busy and 
bustling appearance. 

I had to-day a visit from Okotook and Iligliuk, who, with their son, came in 
upon their sledge from the distanthuts. Being desirous of entertaining them 
well, in ‘return for their late hospitality, we provided ‘abundance to eat, and 
shewed them every thing about the ship that we thought likely to amuse 
them. Of all the wonders they had ever witnessed on board, there was no- 
thing which seemed to impress them so strongly with a sense of our supe- 
riority as the forge, and the work which the armourer performed with it. 
The welding of two pieces of iron especially excited their admiration, and 
I never saw Iligliuk express so much astonishment at any thing before. 
Even in this her superior good sense’ was observable, for it was evident 
that the utility of what she saw going on was what forced itself upon her 
mind; and she watched every stroke of the hammer and each blast ‘of the 
bellows with extreme eagerness, while numbers of the other Esquimanx 
looked stupidly on, without expressing the smallest curiosity or interest 
in the operation, except by desiring to have some spear-heads fashioned 
out by this means. Iligliuk was always very much entertained also by 
pictures having any relation to the Esquimaux in other parts, and de- 
rived great entertainment from a description of any difference in their 
clothes, utensils, or weapons. Of these the sail in an Esquimaux boat 


* Journal of the. Voyage of 1819-20, p. 172. 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 211 


seemed particularly to attract her notice ; but in general she had no inclina- 
tion to admit the inferiority of her own tribe to any other. She was always 
extremely inquisitive about her own sex, whether Innuces * or Kabdloonas, lis- 
tening with eager attention to any account of their dress or occupations, and 
in common, I believe, with all the rest of the Esquimaux, wondered how we 
came to travel to their country without our wives. The assurance that many 
among us were not married, they received with evident incredulity. 

We to-day cleared away the snow that had been banked against the ships’ 
sides, the use of which was proved a day or two after by the frost making a 
large rent in the Fury’s rudder and another in her stem. This covering 
therefore should not have been removed so early. Mr. Fisher having now 
concluded most of the observations and experiments for which the house 
was built, it was taken down and the materials brought on board; the 
transit-instrument and meridian-mark remaining as before, to enable him to 
commence a series of observations for the pendulum, whenever the weather 
should become warm enough for the clock to be set up ina tent. The con- 
tinuance of comparatively temperate weather, though it was much colder 
than we had expected at this season, induced us also to begin clearing and 
turning up a small piece of ground as a garden for each ship, in which we 
hoped to produce something in the way of vegetable diet before our de- 
parture, especially as we were now supplied with several glazed frames for 
hot-beds. There was not at this time a bare spot of ground anywhere to 
be seen, so that we had to clear away the snow, in some places two or three 
feet deep, in order to find a space that would suit our purpose ; and it was 
then so full of stones and frozen ground that it required great labour even 
to prepare mould enough for the frames. These were however completed 
in a few days and sown with mustard, cress, and pease, the latter having 
been found tp produce the greatest quantity of green substance at Melville 
Island. 

On the 13th a number of the natives from the Winter Island huts formed 
a second detachment, and set off for the other village. They carried 
their goods on sledges as before, even to the exclusion of poor old Hik- 
keiera, whom some of our gentlemen overtook crawling after his com- 
panions with a stick, and who, but for their timely and humane remon- 
strances, might that day have finished his pilgrimage on earth. They insisted 
however on his being placed on one of the sledges, which was accordingly 


¢ 


* Esquimaux. 
2E 2 


Sat. 13, 


1822, 
ril. 
aw 


Mon. 15. 


212 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


complied with ; but, on their arrival at the village, his companions left him 
lying there till their huts were built. All. the Esquimaux pressed our gen- 
tlemen very strongly to sleep at the village, but one of the women gave 
Mr. Bird an indifferent specimen of her hospitality by picking his pocket of 
a handkerchief, though not so dexterously as to escape detection. The few 
who visited the ships to-day told us, that they were all about to leave Winter 
Island on the morrow ; and Okotook and Iligliuk, who had not yet returned, 
came on board among the rest to pay a last visit. I gave the former a large 
piece of oak-wood for a bow and two arrows, a second iron spear-head, and 
various other useful articles, to add to the stock of wealth he had from time 
to time received from us. As these good folks found themselves perfectly at 
home in my cabin, I was usually in the habit of continuing my occupations 
when they were there, without heing disturbed by them. Being now en- 
gaged in writing, my attention was unexpectedly directed towards them by 
lligliuk’s suddenly starting from her seat, moving quickly towards the door, 
and without saying a word, either to me or any of the officers present, hasten- 
ing directly on deck. Okotook indeed, as he followed her out of the cabin, 
turned round and said “ Good-bye,” of which expression he had learned 
the meaning, and then, without giving us time to return the compliment, 
they both hurried out of the ship, leaving us in some astonishment at this 
singular leave-taking which we then supposed to be the last. 

A case or two of inflammation in the eyes, producing partial “ snow- 
blindness,” having lately occurred, I directed a quarter of a yard of crape, 
supplied for that purpose, to be furnished to each man, to be worn as a 
short veil over the eyes. At the same time were issued to each individual 
in the Expedition a pair of boots and warm stockings, being part of a supply 
of warm clothing with which we had been furnished, to be served gratis at 
my discretion. This liberal addition to the men’s clothing was particularly 
acceptable at this time, as we were shortly about to commence cutting the 
ice round the ships, previous to making any alteration in the stowage of their 
holds. While preparations were making for this work, it was suggested to 
me that, strongly as the ice was now cemented to the ships’ sides, we might, 
by cutting atrench round their bows to the depth of three or four feet, (taking 
care not to admit the water,) have an opportunity of examining the planks, 
and caulking the seams where they were most likely to require it. This 
plan was adopted, and was found completely to answer the purpose for 
which it was intended 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 213 

On the morning of the 16th, the weather being extremely fine, Captain heat 
Lyon left the ships, accompanied by Lieutenant Palmer and the rest of his ae 
travelling party, and equipped for remaining the night, with the intention of 
effecting the object which on his former ¢xeursion the inclemency of the wea- 
ther had rendered impracticable. We were glad to find that avery moderate 
breeze from the north-west served once more to separate the ice, which had for 
some days past been attached to the land, and to send it off to a considerable 
distance. The thermometer being from 3° to 9° during the day, very little 
frost-smoke rose from the clear water. Some hard well-defined clouds, 
being nearly the first we had seen this season, appeared for a short time 
to-day, and were welcomed as the harbingers of returning moisture in the 
atmosphere. The Aurora Borealis was seen at night to the southward, and 
extending at times in a broad band of light across the heavens, but at a low 
altitude from east to west. 

Early on the morning of the 17th the thermometer fell to —12°, being the 
lowest temperature we had now experienced for some time. At ten A.M. 
Captain Lyon and his party returned, having walked some distance beyond 
the spot where they had before been detained, and determined which must 
be the route to be pursued whenever they set out on their intended journey. 
They found the passage between the island and the continent to be from 
one to two miles in breadth; and that the hummocky nature of the ice 
would not, as we had hoped, admit of their cutting off any of the distance 
to be travelled between the island and the north-eastern point of land. 

We could now begin to perceive, from day to day, that the snow on Tr. 18. 
shore was diminishing. How slow this process was may however be un- 
derstood by the fact, that it was necessary to make a mark on some stone to 
be assured that it was thus receding. Our snow-wall had indeed settled 

down nearly a foot by the gradual diminution of the blocks of which it 

: was composed ; but the thawing had been artificially assisted by the black 

i cloth hung against it. Five ravens were seen to-day all quite black; four 
of them were flying in pairs. 

On the 19th the wind veered by north to east and south-east, and towards Frid. 19. 
evening a good deal of snow fell of a softer and larger kind than we had 
yet seen this year. In the afternoon, before the snow came on, the south 
thermometer, exposed to the faint rays of the sun, stood fora short time as 
high as 56°, that in the shade being at 14}°, but a light breeze springing up 
immediately brought the two thermometers to nearly the same low tempe- 


Wed. 17. 


1822, 
April. 
‘ww 


Sat. 20. 


Mon, 22, 


214 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


rature. This effect was invariably produced by the wind suddenly blow- 
ing on a thermometer, when the mercury had been considerably raised by 
exposure to the sun’s rays. On the 20th the wind blew fresh from the north- 
east, which only requires to be noticed because, for the last fortnight, we 
had scarcely experienced a breeze, which in the language of a sea-log had 
sufficient strength to be called ‘“ moderate.” On the 21st Mr. Bird saw a 
flock of seven birds, which he took to be grouse. 

On the 22d a number of the Esquimaux came to the ships with a sledge, 
and among the rest my late host Arnaneclia and his wife, the latter having 
the front of her jacket adorned with numberless strings of beads that we 
had given her, arranged with exact uniformity, to which, in the fashion of 
their dresses and the disposition of their ornaments, these people always 
rigidly adhere. Aneetka had scarcely reached the cabin when she pro- 
duced a little ivory comb and a pair of handsome mittens, which she pre- 
sented to Mr. Edwards, at the same time thanking him for the attention he 
had shewn her on an occasion when she had been taken in a fit alongside 
the Fury, from which she was recovered by bleeding, This expression of 
gratitude, in which she was heartily joined by her husband, was extremely 
gratifying to us; as it served, in some degree, to redcem these people 
in our estimation from the imputation of ingratitude, which is indeed one 
of their greatest failings. They stated having seen two rein-deer the pre- 
ceding day going over the ice to the main land. They spoke of this with 
great pleasure ; and we were ourselves not displeased with the prospect 
of changing our dict for a little venison. They now became extremely 
urgent with us for wood to make bows and arrows, most of their own 
having, with the childishness that accompanied their first barterings, been 
parted with to our officers and men. Having several broken oars which 
could be turned to little or no account on board, we were enabled, at a small 
expense of useful stores, to furnish them very abundantly with wood for 
this purpose. Arnancelia also informed us that Okotook, who had been 
unwell for some days, was now much worse, and seemed, as he described 
it, to be labouring under a violent pulmonary complaint. On the circum- 
stance being mentioned to Mr. Skeoch, he kindly volunteered to go to 
the village, and accordingly took his seat on the sledge accompanied also 
by Mr. Sherer. They carried with them a quantity of bread-dust to be dis- 
tributed among the Esquimaux at the huts, their success in seal catching 
having lately been indifferent. 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 215 


On the 23d, being St. George’s day, which is commanded to be cele- 
brated as the anniversary of His Majesty’s birth-day, we commemorated 
that event in the best manner our situation would permit, by dressing the 
ships in flags at the mast-heads and making a certain addition to the allow- 
ance of meat and spirits to the ships’ companies. In the course of the af- 
ernoon Mr. Skeoch returned from the huts, having left Okotook somewhat 
relieved by a copious bleeding, but still labouring under a violent inflam- 
matory complaint, requiring more comfort and attention than the huts were 
capable of affording. Mr. Skeoch said the Esquimaux had received him 
very kindly, and expressed many thanks for his assistance. 

In digging up the piece of ground for our garden, we found an incre- 
dible quantity of bones scattered about and concealed under the little soil 
there was. They were principally those of walruses and seals, and had 
evidently been left a long time before by Esquimaux, in the course of their 
wandering visits to the island; being gradually covered by the vegetable 
mould formed upon the spot which they helped to fertilize. Afterwards, 
when the land became more clear of snow, this was found to be the case to 
a much greater extent, every spot of ground upon the south-east point, 
which was not absolutely a rock, being covered with these relics. Some 
graves were also discovered, in one of which were a human skull appa- 
rently a hundred years buried, and some pieces of wood that had pro- 
bably been parts of spears or arrows almost mouldered to dust. Knowing 
as we do the antiseptic properties of this climate, animal or vegetable sub- 
stances in this state of decay convey to the mind an idea of much greater 
age than they would in any other part of the world. 

With a light southerly breeze to-day the south thermometer stood at 
+12°, and the north at +23°. Besides the former instances of this dif- 
ference which I have already mentioned, several other though less striking 
ones, occurred in the course of the spring, for which a light breeze blow- 
ing on the thermometer did not seem satisfactorily to account. Three pair 
of grouse were scen by our gentlemen to-day in the course of their walks, 
so that their return and that of the deer seem to have been well marked at 
this period. 


1822, 
April. 


wa\yned 
Tues, 23, 


A number of Esquimaux came to the ships on the 25th, notwithstanding Thur. 25. 


a strong breeze from the S.W.b.W., with a considerable snow-drift, From 
these people we learned that Okotook’s complaint had increased since Mr, 
Skeoch’s visit, and that he was now extremely ill, Mr. Bushnan immediately 


cee. 


3 > pe 
RSP te en nae RE 


1822. 
April. 
ww 


<a 


216 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


offered to go to the huts for the purpose of bringing him on board, where, 
by Mr. Edwards’s. kind attentions, and the enjoyment of warmth and 
dryness, we hoped soon to recover him. Mr. Bushnan therefore without 
waiting for the return of the sledges set out for. the village at an early hour 
in the forenoon, accompanied by the serjeant of marines. At eleven at night 
our party returned on board, bringing on a sledge Okotook, Iligliuk, and 
their son. That Iligliuk would accompany her husband I of course took for 
granted and wished ; but as the boy could do us no good, and was moreover 
a desperate eater, I had desired Mr. Bushnan to try whether a slight objec- 
tion to his being of the party would induce Okotook to leave him with his 
other relations. This he had cautiously done ; but the instant the proposal, 
was made, Okotook, without any remark, began to take off the clothes he 
had himself just dressed in to set out. No further objection being made, 
however, he again prepared for the journey, Iligliuk assisting him with 
the most attentive solicitude. Before the invalid was suffered to leave 
his apartment, some of the by-standers sent for Ewerat, now better known 
to our people by the undignified appellation of ‘the Conjuror.” Ewerat, 
on this occasion, maintained a degree of gravity and reserve calculated to 
inspire somewhat more respect than we had hitherto been disposed to 
entertain for him in that capacity. Placing himself at the door of the 
apartment opposite Okotook, who was still seated on the bed, he held 
both his thumbs in his mouth, keeping up a silent but solemn converse with 
his toorngow*, the object of which was, as Mr. Bushnan, presently afterwards 
found, to inquire into the efficacy and propriety of the sick man’s removal. 
Presently he began to utter a variety of confused and inarticulate sounds ; 
and it being at length understood that a favourable answer had been given, 
Okotook was carried out and placed on the sledge, Ewerat still mumbling 
his thumbs and muttering his incantations as before. When thé party took 
their leave, there were a great many doleful faces among those that remained 
behind; and Mr, Bushnan said that the whole scene more resembled the 
preparations for a funeral than the mere removal of a sick man. When the 
sledge moved on, Ewerat was the only one who had not a “ Good-bye!” 
ready, he being as seriously engaged as at first, and continuing so as long as 
our people could observe him. 

Okotook was extremely ill on his arrival, having been three hours on the 


* Familiar spirit, 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 217 


sledge, and Iligliuk, who, as Mr. Bushnan told me, had scarcely taken her 


eyes off her husband’s face the whole time, seemed almost worn out with ““™ 


fatigue and anxiety. A bed of wolf-skins being prepared for him, Okotook 
was soon placed upon it, and such remedies applied as Mr. Edwards judged 
necessary for his complaint, which was inflammation of the lungs to a degree 
that, if left to itself, or even to Ewerat, would soon have proved fatal, or at 
best have terminated in consumption. 


On the 26th, a south-east wind brought a heavy fall of snow in flakes Frid. 26. 


much larger than before. The thermometers on the ice at noon stood at 
23° in both aspects. We heard from Illumea, who came to see her son 
Okotook, that a part of the natives had gone still farther to the westward upon 
the ice, one spot not affording sufficient subsistence for the whole of them, 
Our patient felt much the better for a comfortable night’s lodging, and now 
submitted with great patience to the application of a blister, though I believe 
his confidence in our mode of cure was afterwards shaken for a time by the 
pain which it occasioned. Both he and Iligliuk, however, seemed very sensi- 
bly to feel the comforts and advantages of their present quarters ; and a 
“coyenna” (thanks) now and then fell from their lips. Nothing could 
exceed the attention which the latter paid to her husband; she kept her 
eyes almost constantly fixed upon him, and seemed anxious to anticipate 
every want. 

One of Okotook’s brothers had arrived from the huts, bringing with him 
some walrus-flesh to tempt the appetite of the invalid, whose stomach, how- 
ever, very furtunately for his complaint, was not disposed to this kind of deli- 
cacy. When his brother was about to rewirn, Okotook took it into his head to 
send his son away with him, probably because he heard they had the day be- 
fore killed two seals, which atforded better feeding than we had to give him: 
be this e : it may, we were not sorry that he went, and the boy himself seemed 
no less pleased ; for without playfellows or amusement of any kind, his time 
hung very heavily on his hands while he remained on board, It was amusing 
to see Okotook take a dose of physic for the first time in his life to-day, He 
knew its taste was not pleasant, but this was certainly not all that he 
dreaded ; for before he put the cup to his lips with one hand, he held on by 
his wife with the other, and she by him with both hers, as though they ex- 
pected an explosion, or some such catastrophe, as the immediate effect of the 
potion; nor did he venture to relinquish his hold, till the taste began to 
leave his mouth. The quantity of water which he drank in the course of 
QF 


or SOR ee ee 


218 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


1824. the four and twenty hours is beyond conception; and the cabin fire could 
wr~ scarcely, by the melting of snow, furnish enough for their consumption. 


These people are extromcly particular as to the purity of the water they 
drink. Some that had been melted in our steamer, and which I thought 
very good, neither of them would touch, or at least always spat out again. If 
the water was much above the temperature of 32°, they also disliked it, and 
immediately put snow into it to cool it down. Tligliuk, who came on board 
with one side of her hair loose, loosened the other alse to-day, in conse- 
quence of her fancying Okotook worse, though it was only the annoyance of 
the blister that made him uneasy ; for even in this sequestered corner of the 
globe, dishevelled locks bespeak mourning. It was not however with her 
the mere semblance of grief, for she was really much distressed throughout 
the day, all our endeavours not availing to make her understand how one 
pain was to be removed by inflicting another. 

The wind still continuing to the southward and eastward, and the weather 
extremely mild, on the 27th, pools of water were, by the melting of the snow, 
formed on our upper deck. The northern thermometer stood as high as 32}° 
at two P.M., being the first instance this season of its rising above the 
freezing point in the shade. The first snow-bunting was also seen to-day. 
The mildness of the atmosphere did not long continue, for the wind backing 


Sun. 28, to the W.N.W. on the 28th, the thermometer gradually fell till it had reached 


sero at midnight, and —6° soon after. The westerly wind, as usual, caused 
a great deal of open water in the offing, within a few hours after its shifting 
to that quarter. Another snow-bunting or two were scen on the 29th, and 
these little birds increased almost daily in numbers from this time. Snow fell 


Mon, 29. very thick on the 29th, and it was generally remarked that we had more of it 


about this period than during the whole of the winter-months, Our garden- 
plots, from which two or three feet of snow had at first been removed, were 
now more deeply covered by the fall of a single day. I may here notice that 
our standing rigging did not slacken during any part of this winter as at Mel- 
ville Island ; neither on the other hand did it tighten so as in the slightest 
degree to injure the rope, the hounds of the masts, or any of the iron work 
of the dead-eyes. 

Captain Lyon being desirous of having some little clothes made as models 
of the Esquimaux costume, and thinking Iligliuk’s present leisure afforded 
her a good opportunity of making them, had yesterday obtained her promise 
that she would do so, Okotook being now very much better, and she having 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 219 


herself resumed her usual gaiety in consequence, I pressed her to commence 
her work and placed the skins before her, when she said that she could not 
do them here as she had no needles. These being supplied her, she now 
complained of having no tooktdo c-walloo (rein-deer sinew) their usual thread. 
This difficulty, unfortunately for Iligliuk’s credit, was as easily overcome as 
the other; and when scissors, pattern-clothes, and all the other requisites 
were laid before her, she was at length driven to the excuse that Okotook’s 
illness would not permit her to do it. Seeing us half laughing at the absur- 
dity of these excuses, and half-angry at the selfish indolence which prompted 
them, she at last flatly asserted that Okotook desired her not to work, 
which, though we knew it to be a falsehood, the latter did not deny. We then 
supposed that some superstition might be at the bottom of this; but having 
a little while after, by way of experiment, thrown Lligliuk some loose beads 
upon the table, she eagerly employed herself for half-an-hour in stringing 
them that not one might be lost; which proved that where her own gratifica- 
tion or interest were concerned, Okotook’s illness was not suffered te inter- 
fere. This anecdote shews in a strong light that deep-rooted selfishness 
which, in numberless instances, notwithstanding the superiority of Ligliuk’s 
understanding, detracted from the amiability of her disposition. The fact 
was that she did not feel inclined so far to exert herself as to comply with 
Captain Lyon’s request; and the slight degree of gratitude and proper feel- 
ing which was requisite to overcome that disinclination, was altogether 
wanting. 

I have related this anecdote just as it occurred with the hope of shewing 
the true disposition of these people, and not with a view of unduly depre- 
ciating the character of our friend Iligliuk. I am however compelled to ac- 
knowledge that, in proportion as the superior understanding of this extraor- 
dinary woman became more and more developed, her head (for what female 
head is indifferent to praise !) began to be turned with the general attention 
and numberless presents she received. The superior decency and even 
modesty of her behaviour had combined, with her intellectual qualities, to 
raise her in our estimation far above her companions; and I often heard 
others express what I could not but agree in, that for Lligliuk alone, of all the 
Esquimaux women, that kind of respect could be entertained which modesty 
in a female never fails to command in our sex. Thus regarded, she had 
always been freely admitted into the ships, the quartermasters at the gang- 
way never thinking of refusing entrance to ‘‘ the wise woman” as they called 

2re2 


1822. 
April. 


ad 


1822. 
April. 
wre 


220 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE. DISCOVERY 


her. Whenever any explanation was necessary between the Esquimaux and 
us, Iligliuk was sent for quite as an interpreter; information was chiefly ob- 
tained through her, and she thus found herself rising into a degree of conse- 
quence to which, but for us, she could never have attained. Notwithstanding 
a more than ordinary share of good sense on her part, it will not therefore 
be wondered at if she became giddy with her exaltation, assuming certain 
airs which, though infinitely diversified in their operation according to circum- 
stances, perhaps universally attend a too sudden accession of good fortune in 
every child of Adam from the equator to the poles. The consequence was 
that Iligliuk was soon spoiled ; considered her admission into the ships and 
most of the cabins no longer as an indulgence but a right; ceased to return 
the slightest acknowledgment for any kindness or presents ; became listless 
and inattentive in unravelling the meaning of our questions, and careless 
whether her answers conveyed the information we desired. In short, Iligliuk 
in February and Iligliuk in April were confessedly very different persons; 
and it was at last amusing to recollect, though not very easy to persuade one’s 
self, that the woman who now sat demurely in a chair so confidently expect- 
ing the notice of those around her, and she who had at first with eager and 
wild delight assisted in cutting snow for the building of a hut, and with 
the hope of obtaining a single needle, were actually one and the same 
individual. 

Togolat came down to the ships to-day to see her brother Okotook ; she 
was accompanied by Arnalooa, and on their arrival they were both sent for 
into the cabin. We observed however that they required an unusual degree 
of solicitation to make them go near Okotook, or even to the side of the cabin 
where he lay concealed by a skreen ; and after all, they remained in the op- 
posite corner next the door ; and having talked freely to the invalid for some 
time, took their leave without seeing him. In the evening, after they were 
gone, we found that this unfortunate though well-intended visit was occasion- 
ing great distress to Okotook, who talked for two hours almost incessantly 
about “ Arnalooa’'s having seen him,” which it seems ought not to have been 
the case. What misfortune was to be apprehended in consequence of this 
event we could not learn ; but be spoke of it ina kind of agony, and was evi- 
dently labouring under the influence of some powerful though absurd super- 
stition respecting it. Towards night he suffered a dreadful bleeding at the 
nose followed by much sickness at the stomach which, together with the 
phantom of Arnalooa which still haunted his imagination, combined to make 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 221 


him extremely unwell for some hours. The next day however he was free Pe 
from.complaint of any kind, and began once more to put on a smiling coun- pope 
tenance. 

The caulking of our bows being now completed, the ships were released Tues. 30. 
from the ice by sawing round them; an operation which caused them to rise 
in the water six inches and a half, in consequence of the increased buoyancy 


occasioned by the winter’s expenditure. 


| 


62.7 30.10 asia abla 


lee ul 


~12 (5.51 


+29 


ABSTRACT of the METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL kept on board His Majesty’s Ship 
Fury, at Winter Island, during the Month of April, 1822. 


nh 
, ht Fahrenheit’s Ther- 4 Prevailing 
ii mometer. oO Barometer. Winds. 
aie PE 3 
} wat | aa | sm. | 2° § te [me sinaascal Wiki 
f it a a 
i ijl-4 |-% 80H Giz |] 29.20] Bo'0s|20 132] NW modt. 
aL 2|++1 | 10 | 3.58| 622 || 20.74] 29.29 NW light 
At 3|| 5 | 2 |40.83] 64.5 || 29.83] 29.7920.813| East} modt, 
i I 4|| 5 | 10 |-1.17|] 64.0 |] 29.87] 29.83|29.e43 PM: NE] light 
k 5 || 9 | 5 |42.08] 65.0 || 29.90] 29.80129.875|| North light 
6] 9] 6 eral 64.2 || 29.75] 29.40/29.592] NNW fresh 
7il o| 6 Lae 68.6 || 29.34 $b .silboiate NNW fresh 
s || 138/41 |47 ‘a 69.2 || 29.48] 20.28 rel North light 
o|| 9 |-9 sa 66.0 || 29.71] 29.51129.6 ENE modt. 
10 | 12 143 | 6.08] 62.5 || 29.90 pitibceul North light 
|| 13 | 2 | 7.71] 68.2 |] 29.98) 29.90]29.9201 wsw light 
12 | 17 |- 0f| 7.21] 64.0 |] 29.97] 29.92 hau ESE light 
13) 6 | 1 | 1.87] 63.2 || 30.10 29: 00180:000 Kast light 
mi) 9 | 4 | 1.75]] 61.5 |] 30.04] 20.90129.955|| NNE light 
15 || 10 | 25] 2.96] 57.5 || 29.84] 29.82/29.8351 NNW light 
i WNW | light 
- 17 | 11 | 12 | 0.79]| 61.1 |] 20.72| 20.60)29.6c0ol wNw | light 
; 1s} 10 | 1 | 4.46) 58.5 || 29.84] 20.71|20.708] sw light 
i 1 | 19 | 11 | 7 | 4.67] 62.0 || 20.80] 29.76]29.783 ee light 
20 | 12 +5 | 8.58] 61.5 |! 29.80] 20.71/29.752| ENE fresh 
30.01 ss sil i NE light 
| 30.03] 30.00/30.022/| South light 
froma te | ga 
20.77| 29.73|29.742|| sw modt, 
20.78| 20.70129.733|| sw fresh 
20.76] 20.57|20.645||  ssE fresh 
29.55] 20.4929.508]| SE light 
28 |} 20 | 0 | 9.96) 64.5 || 29.73 sovealee.oes West light 
20) 9 |-5 | 3. : 58.5 || 20.80 mreente West | modt. 
30 || 16 | 4 | 7.88] 59.5 || 80.08 90, 80190.0r8 NW light 


Prevailing 
Weather. 


cloudy 
hazy and snow 
hazy 
clear 
clear 
hazy and snow 
hazy and snow 
cloudy and snow 
cloudy 
cloudy and snow 
cloudy and snow 
cloudy and snow 
fine 
cloudy 
cloudy 
fine 
cloudy 
cloudy and snow 
cloudy and snow 
cloudy and drift 
cloudy 
cloudy and snow 
variable, calm at times 
cloudy 
hazy and drift 
hazy and drift 
cloudy and snow 
cloudy and snow 
cloudy 
cloudy 


SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY. 


CHAPTER IX. 


INCREASED EXTENT OF OPEN WATER IN THE OFFING——A TRAVELLING-PARTY DE- 
SPATCHED TO THE NORTHWARD-——-UNSUCCESSFUL ATTEMPT TO RAISE VEGETABLES ON 
SHORE=—DECEASE OF JAMES PRINGLE—A PARTY OF ESQUIMAUX BUILD HUTS NEAR 
THE SHIPS—-RETURN OF THE TRAVELLERS, AND ACCOUNT OF THEIR JOURNEY——-FIRST 
APPEARANCE OF THE PLANTS-—BIRDS BECOME NUMEROUS-——-COMMENCE CUTTING A 
CANAL THROUGH THE ICE FOR LIBERATING THE SHIPS-——-ILLNESS AND DECEASE OF 
JOHN REID AND WILLIAM SOUTER—BREAKING-UP OF THE ICE IN THE BAY—ACCOUNT 
OF WINTER ISLAND=—ABSTRACT OF OBSERVATIONS MADE THERE, 


, 


For the last three weeks of the month of April the mean daily temperature 
of the atmosphere had continued rather above zero, and after the 2d of May 
the thermometer permanently continued above that point of the scale; in 
which respect we were just a fortnight in advance of the summer of 1820 at 
Melville Island, the difference of latitude between the two places being 84°. 
Notwithstanding this comparison, which we could not help thinking unfa- 
vourable to our present station, or at least to the present season, it was fully 
compensated by the enlivening prospect from the south-east point, where 
there was, on the lst of May, so large a space of clear water in sight, that 
it was generally remarked we had not seen any so extensive since we entered 
Hudson’s Strait. A thin sheet of young ice continued to form on the sur- 
face at night, but usually disappeared again in the course of the day. After 


1822, 
May. 


w~ 
Wed. I. 


sunset, on the evening of the 2d, a thin horizontal streak or band of vapour Thur. 2. 


appeared along the lower parts of the land: as the night advanced it be- 
came thicker and more diffused, and at length, for the first time this season, 
the ships were for an hour or two enveloped in fog. 

Okotook being now left without any of his own companions, Iligliuk 
having accompanied some of the women to the village, passed a restless and 


—= == — 
we = 
SSS sar Ae aR tae Rie : — ‘ 


PRS aE SES SO yee es 


1822, 
May. 
Sai 


Frid. 3. 


224 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


uncomfortable day. His complaint being removed, and the sun shining 
bright into the cabin, he frequently got up and walked about, casting many 
a wishful look through the windows, and expressing great anxiety to go on 
deck, which however Mr. Edwards would not permit him to do. He had 
indeed by this time learned to entertain no inconsiderable degree of super- 
stitious reverence for that gentleman’s directions, probably of the same 
nature as those with which Ewerat might have inspired him in similar cases ; 
and he was therefore induced, without difficulty, to give up the thoughts of 
going on deck. He would then lie down again, and continue muttering to 
himself in a low tone of voice for an hour together, repeatedly men- 
tioning the name of his son, whom we fancied he wished to have with him. 
It was therefore no less a re'ief to us than to him when, in the evening 
some of the natives arrived, bringing with them a piece of fine venison 
whicb, as we were informed, they had been to a considerable distance to 
fetch, it being part of a store concealed under a heap of stones the pre; 
ceding autumn. Okotook was once more happy when his friends arrived, 
willingly admitted them to his bed-side, and talked for two hours with 
great curiosity and interest of what had been going on at the huts during 
his absence. We had occasion to remark that, from some superstitious no- 
tion, Okotook would on no account permit the other young men to drink out 
of the same cup with himself: the objection lying wholly on his side, it 
had evidently no relation to any idea of contagion. Toolooak slep. on the 
same bed with our patient, and the others were comfortably lodged on the 
lower deck. 

On the following morning we found that our invalid was determined no 
longer to suffer his present confinement, and that he had settled with his 
companions that he should accompany them on their return. His original 
complaint being .entirely removed, and nothing remaining but debility, 
Mr. Edwards thought it advisable rather to let him go without objection, than 
to run any risk of his incurring fresh mental disquietude by remaining on 
board alone. He was accordingly seated on the sledge, where however they 
allowed him to remain an hour before they could make it convenient to set 
out. Previous to his departure he received several useful presents, notwith- 
standing which, on leaving the ship, he did not say a word as an acknow- 
ledgment ; and, as he soon after removed to a more distant station, this was 
the last we saw of Okotook. 

The northern thermometer on the ice stood for a short time to-day, above 40°. 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 225 


g The diminution of snow from the rocks was now going on much more rapidly, 1). 
y and on mild days, such as this, a difference could be perceived in the aspect 9 
n of the land in the course of four or five hours. Whatever thawing took 
d place, however, the snow seemed to be no sooner dissolved into water than 
r- it was also converted into vapour ; for not a pool or stream of any kind was 
e yet to be seen. I must however make an exception in favour of a place 
; upon the ice where a line of sand had purposely been laid a day or two 
of before, reaching nearly across the bay, and passing just outside the ships, 
to with the intention of facilitating the thawing process by artificial means, and 
n- of thus hastening the time of our release. Here the sand soon made a 
n. trench for itself of considerable depth, in consequence of the heat absorbed 
ig by it, but it required some labour occasionally to clear out the snow-drift 
on which subsequently collected there. Even this labour we soon after ceased 
to to bestow upon it, finding that nature would require our assistance on a 
ey much larger scale if we desired to hasten our departure. There seemed no 
d, doubt, however, that in some cases the plan might be of essential service. 
th The first flock of fifteen ducks, which proved to be of the long-tailed spe- 
ng ; cies, were seen to-day, as also two silvery gulls. The wind becoming va- 
o- riable, and at length settling from the eastward, the ice closed in with the 
ut | land ; but we now saw this without anxiety, as there was no longei any frost 
it that could cement it to the shore. 
1e On the 5th the first pool, from which perhaps a gill of water might have sun. 5 
e been taken up by a sponge, was seen upon the rocks. The mercury in the 
barometer which had been very slowly rising from 30.08 inches on the morn- 
10 ing of the lst, had for the third time this winter reached 30.40 at midnight 
is on the 5th, at which it continued for six or seven hours and then fell much 
al more rapidly. The wind had during this time been moderate, and the 
Ve weather remained fine for several days, though the barometer even with a 
an northerly wind had fallen to 29.70 inches on the 8th. The weather was mild 
bn and pleasant to the feelings to-day, the thermometer being as high as 43° in 
by the shade and 57° in the sun. 
t On the 7th the average depth of snow upon the ice was found to be eight Tues. 7. 
J inches, being nearly double what it was on the 3lst of March. The weather wed.s. 
- being now to all appearance tolerably settled, I determined on sending away 


our travelling-party under Captain Lyon. It consisted of Lieutenant Palmer, 
five seamen, and three marines, the whole being victualled for twenty days, 
pi, and furnished with a tent, fuel, and every other convenience of which such a 
26 


226 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


May, journey would admit. The baggage was placed on light sledges, resembling 


| \r~ those used by Captain Franklin on his late journey to the shores of the 
Wy Polar Sea, made out of staves shaved thin, six feet eight inches long, four- 


teen inches broad, and turned up before. Being secured entirely with 

thongs of hide sunk by grooves into the wood to keep thein from wearing, 

they were perfectly flexible, so as to be in no danger of breaking on un- 
even ground. It is astonishing to see with what ease such a sledge is 
| dragged along, the friction of so considerable a surface being more than 
|) compensated by its passing over the snow without sinking. Each indi- 
t vidual of the party was furnished with one of these, which also served to 
sleep and sit upon; the weight dragged by each of the men being about one 
hundred and twenty pounds, and that of the officers from ninety to ninety- 
five. Each person had also a pair of snow-shoes, a deer-skin jacket and 

boots for sleeping in, and another pair of boots of water-tight seal-skin. 

The general tenor of Captain Lyon’s instructions was, “ after crossing to 
the continent, to proceed along that coast to the northward, carefully exa- 
mining any bend or inlet he might meet with, so as to leave no doubt if pos- 
sible of its actual extent and communications, thereby preventing the ne- 
cessity of the ships entering it on their arrival there.” I added also the 
necessary directions for remarking every thing of interest relating to the. 
tides, and the natural productions of the country; and I limited Captain 
Lyon to the end of the month in returning, to avoid the possibility of detain- 
ing the Expedition. 

Their preparations being completed, our travellers left the ships under a 
salute of three cheers from both the crews, and accompanied by a large party 
of officers and men to assist them for the first few hours. A day or two after 
their departure asupply of provisions was lodged at the garden, according to 
a plan previously agreed on, in case of our being forced out to sea with the 
ice before theirreturn. Arrangements were also made for putting an officer 
and two men on shore as a guard to this as well as to the clock, tent, or any 
other articles that might be left behind, in the event of an occurrence of this 
nature. 

Sun. 12, It now became too evident that the climate with which our gardeners had 
to contend, would not allow them to furnish us with many ounces of vegetable 
substance, in any reasonable time to which our stay here might be prolonged. 

A register-thermometer left for four and twenty-hours under the glasses of 

the beds (they can scarcely be called hot-beds) ranged from 25° to 100°, the 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 227 


frames being closely covered with Russia mats after sunset. The only water May, 


we could procure for the seeds was by melting snow ; and it would have made “vw 
a horticulturist smile to see a fire of turf made daily at our garden for 
this purpose. The snow-drift too had not yet ceased to be an additional an- 
noyance, half a day's labour being sometimes required after the snow had 
ceased, to admit the sun’s rays by removing it from the frames. 
On the 13th at noon the thermometer in the sun stood at 55°, that in the Mon. 13. 
shade being at 27°. At seven in the evening the electrometer was tried in 
the usual manner, without any effect being perceptible on the gold leaf. On Tues. 14. 
the following evening, when the wind had backed to the southward, and the 
sky was overcast with clouds, it was again tried with no greater success, and 
the chain was now removed from the mast-head, the ships being nearly ready 
for sea. 
In the course of the forenoon of the 15th, a message to our medical gen- Wed. 15. 
tlemen announced the fall of James Pringle, one of the seamen of the Hecla, 
from her mizen-top-mast head to the deck ; and in a few minutes after I was 
much shocked in receiving Lieutenant Hoppner’s report of his death, no 
sign of life having indeed appeared in him from the first moment after his fall. 
On examination it was found that the base of the skuli was fractured, and 
the neck also dislocated. A grave was directed to be dug near the observa- 
tory, and arrangements were made for the funeral taking place on the follow- 
ing Sunday. 
On the 16th, Ewerat, with his wife and family, arrived at the ships, bring- Thur. 16, 
ing with them all their goods and chattels, and with the intention of taking 
up their abode upon the ice near us. They accordingly built their hut about 
a hundred yards from the Fury’s stern, but whether with the view of living 
upon us, or the seals that frequent the bay, we were at first at a loss to con- 
jecture. Ewerat’s household consisted not only of his own family, but also 
of Appokiuk and Itkamuk, the former of whom having no husband, and the 
latter no relative, they both seemed to be fairly “ on the parish.” Besides 
this establishment, a second, on a smaller scale, also made its appearance in 
our neighbourhood, consisting of a very little man named Koo-il-li-ti-uk, 
nick-named by the sailors “ John Bull,” and his pretty little wife Arnalooa, 
whose zeal in bringing up her husband’s share of the sea-horses, I have 
before described. These persons, being eight in number, had, deter- 
mined on travelling to Amitioke for the ensuing summer, influenced, pro- 
bably in some degree, by the hope of falling in with us again, as they 
262 


1822. 
May. 
wary 


Frid. 17. 


Sat. 18. 


228 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


knew that we were going in that direction. Be this, however, as it may, it 
was soon evident that they intended making the most of us while we re- 
mained neighbours ; for on the 17th, though the weather was favourable and 
they had no food of their own, they made no effort to procure. any, except 
from the ships, to which the women brought their ootkooseeks for bread-dust. 
Though I objected to encouraging this, and told them we should give them 
nothing if they did not also labour for themselves, they were all such 
favourites with our people, that 1 believe they found it answer very well; 
contriving not only to get plenty of food, but also a number of useful presents. 
They made, indeed, some return for this, by the usual barter of mittens, of 
which our people were now furnished with an abundant supply. 

A great deal of snow fell in the course of the last two days, and our un- 
fortunate gardens were once more buried beneath it. On the evening of the 
16th, something like small rain was falling for a few minutes, being the first 
we had seen this season; but it soon assumed the less equivocal form of 
sleet, the thermometer being at 31°. 

The observations on the rise and fall of the tide had been constantly made 
and registered throughout the winter, and were continued till the ships were 
ready for sea*. This part of the phenomenon we were, therefore, well ac- 
quainted with, and had found it very regular. In the set of the tides, how- 
ever, (the most perplexing question, in my opinion, which the navigator in 
an unknown sea has to solve,) we found much greater difficulty to obtain the 
desired information. The sea having been occasionally open for days to- 
gether, it could not be said that, even during the winter, opportunities did 
not occur of settling this point—at least of making observations on the di- 
rection of the current, with reference to the times of high and low water by 
the shore. Notwithstanding this, however, it was impossible to discover 
from our register any thing like that regularity in the set of the stream which, 
with so considerable a rise of tide, (amounting at the equinox to nearly six- 
teen fect,) is observed in other parts of the world, Our former experience 
had, indeed, taught us to expect that some irregularity would be produced 
by the influence of the winds, which here, in a degree unknown in any but 
the icy seas, tend immediately to produce a superficial current in the water, 
and consequently to set in motion any floating body, by which a mark may 
be taken, in order to observe the direction of the stream. Even this, how- 


* See the Tide-table in the Appendix. 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 229 


ever, did not seem sufficient to account for the singular fact that frequently, 
for twenty hours out of the four-and-twenty, the stream set to the southward, 
even against a breeze from that quarter, though of course more decidedly so 
when the wind was northerly. The only way, therefore, in which we could 
venture upon any conclusion as to the true direction of the flood-tide,was from 
the circumstance of the stream generally setting to the southward at a rate 
somewhat less rapid upon the ebb than on the flood, by which it appeared 
that the latter came from the northward. 

On the 19th, after an impressive sermon delivered by Mr. Fisher, the 
last mournful duties were performed over the remains of our deceased 
shipmate. The procession consisted of all the seamen, marines, and offi- 
cers of both ships, and the ensigns and pendants remained lowered during 
the rest of a day distinguished to us by this sad event. Nothing worthy of 


Sun, 19. 


notice occurred till the evening of the 21st when, soon after cight o'clock, Tues. 21. 


Captain Lyon and his party were scen on their return over the hills and, being 
met by a number of the officers and men from the ships, arrived on board 
before ten, when I was happy to find our travellers in good health, excepting 
a little snow-blindness and “ foot-foundering,” of which they soon recovered. 
I will not further anticipate Captain Lyon’s Account, which is here annexed, 
than to remark that this journey served to excite very reasonable hopes that 
he had seen the north-eastern extreme of the great peninsula, round which 
we entertained the most sanguine expectations of shortly finding the desired 
passage into the Polar Sea. 


‘‘ Leaving the ships on the evening of the 8th of May, the fatigue-party 
drew our sledges for three hours, which brought us to the most level part of 
the island. I should have taken them a short distance farther had I not ob- 
served that James Pringle stopped behind and lay on the snow, apparently 
suffering from sickness or fatigue ; they were in consequence ordered to re- 
turn to his assistance. Again advancing for two hours, we pitched our tent 
for the night at the head of a small bay, the wind continuing fresh from the 
northward, 

* At six A.M. on the 9th we again set out and proceeded onwards for 
four hours over a plain, which terminated in a low rocky point stretching a 
short distance into Horpner’s Strait, which separates Winter Island from the 
main land. We here rested for the day; no change had taken place in the 


8 ee 


idlnen- 


ek: 


ee St; ts 
ce hae 


See SS. a 


; Sa 


=F 


—= 7) 


a <4 


= 


ees > 


oo 
— 


t 
i! 
if 


1822. 


230 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


weather, but as the surface of the snow was slightly incrusted with ics, 


wr ~ there was no drift to incommode us. As no water was to be procured we 


10. 


were under the necessity of thawing snow. 

“* Leaving this point, which I named Pornt Betrorp, at half-past six we 
entered the heavy ice in the strait, in order to cross at the narrowest part. 
It was, however, with great difficulty we made our way amongst the high 
and irregular masses of ice which filled the strait, and two hours and a half 
elapsed before we arrived at a small island, although the distance could not 
have exceeded two miles. All our party being much fatigued we here 
rested for the night. Our snow-shoes were much damaged, and we were 
sensible that without their help we could not have drawn our loads amongst 
the hummocks. On the ice were observed numerous tracks of wolves, foxes, 
and hares ; we also saw the foot marks of a young bear and its mother, and 
a hare was afterwards seen near the same spot. From an elevated ground 
we took the bearings of the islands in Hoppner’s Strait, which I named 
Birp’s Isies. 

‘* The morning of the 10th brought no change in the wind, but the wea- 
ther was clear and fine. At seven A.M. we moved onwards, and crossed a 
second strait of a mile in breadth, also filled with heavy ice. This occupied 
an hour ; and we then kept along shore for some distant hills on the main 
land, near which we expected our forenoon’s journey would terminate. In 
the course of our walk ten deer were seen ; they appeared in very poor case, 
had not cast their winter coat, and were extremely timid. At eleven we 
stopped to dine. Our road had been over very irregular ground, on which 
the snow lay in heavy ridges. The beach was low, and from the nature of 
the ice that lay on it appeared to be very shallow. Several of the party were 
slightly affected by snow blindness, which I conceive was in a great measure 
to be attributed to the long continuance of the north wind, which had been 
blowing for some hours directly in our faces. The latitude by observation 
here was 66° 25' 10" and long. 0° 11' 15” west of the ships. 

“ At six P.M. on again proceeding, a solitary deer ran near us for above a 
mile, regulating his pace by ours, but seldom coming within gun-shot ; soon 
afterwards three others crossed our path. Having walked about three miles 
from the place of observation, we arrived at the foot of a hill we had set from 
Point Belford ; this place was distant two or three miles from the beach, 
which still continued its flat appearance. At about three or four miles from 
the shore, and bearing 8.E.b.E., we observed a chain of four low isles, or 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 231 


shoals, of about four or five miles in length, from N.E. toS.W. Leaving the 
hill we proceeded N.E.b.N. until half-past nine P.M., and then pitched our 
tent. We were on a rising ground, and the wind was painfully severe from 
the north, with the thermometer at 18°; at midnight the temperature fell to 
12°, and at six A.M. onthe llth it was 14°. At thirty minutes past seven 
A.M. we again crossed the hills, and at ten saw a bay before us, having a 
gradual descent from the hills to its head, at which we stopped a little before 
noon, having come about N.N.E. over the high ground. At noon the ther- 
mometer was 22°. 

‘“ By meridian altitude the latitude was 66° 31’ 20’, and by sights for the 
chronometer the longitude was 0° 00' 50” west of the ships. Five of our 
party here suffered most severely from snow-blindness, notwithstanding the 
constant care which had been taken to shade their eyes. It was now im- 
possible to proceed, and before night two men became quite blind. All suf- 
fered the most acute pain, and their faces and eyes were much swollen and 
inflamed. As we could only obtain water by thawing snow, and as we were 
limited in the expenditure of our small stock of fuel, it was out of our power 
to afford enough to bathe the eyes of our invalids. The wind gradually sub- 
sided on the 12th, thermometer at six A M. 14°, and at noon 22°. The people 
continued to suffer all day, but in the evening, the snow having melted a 
little on the rocks, they were enabled to bathe their faces, which afforded great 
relief. Near our tent were some Esquimaux land-marks, and a mass of stones, 
built in the form of a grave ; one flat slab which composed a side was about 
five feet by two; we searched for the body, but the ground was too much 
frozen to be broken up. From an eminence two miles north-east of the tent 
we found that the southern boundary of this place (which I named Biake’s 
Bay,) bore S.4W.; thermometer at nine P.M. 18°, at midnight 8°. 

‘* Early on the morning of the 13th seven deer passed near the tent ; at six 
A.M. thermometer 10°. Although the eyes of the people were not by any 
means free from inflammation, yet they were so far recovered as to enable us 
to proceed, the sufferers being directed by looking down on the sledge imme- 
diately before them, Having rounded the bay by half-pastseven, we walked 
along a very flat beach, off which at the distance of a mile was a continued 
chain of low islands and shoals for two or three leagues, At the expiration 
of four hours we stopped on a rocky point, round which were the remains of 
several Esquimaux summer habitations. Thermometer at noon 24°. This 
was the first day we had obtained water sufficient for our consumption. 


11. 


12. 


13. 


1822, 
May. 


LS a 2 


14, 


232 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


** At six P.M., proceeding in an E.N.E. direction, farther inland we came 
at about seven miles’ distance to a gradual ascent, and soon arrived on a high 
hill, from which the sea was distant about three miles. The land was at first 
tolerably regular, but as we proceeded the rocks became bold and abrupt, 
and the snow was nearly all thawed from their eastern face. From the bare 
state of the bluff we found it was a favourite resort of the deer, of which we 
saw several, as affording them some withered grasses and moss which the 
the thaw had left exposed, or which were buried so small a depth beneath 
the snow as to be easily procured by scraping with the feet. At half-past 
ten we stopped for the night, the thermometer being at 14°. 

“* The morning of the 14th was calm but cloudy, and at six A.M. the ther- 
mometer 11°, At half-past seven we descended the rocks, which I named 
AvperuEy’s Biurr, and found them precipitous near the sea, Passing 
amongst the heavy grounded ice which lay at their foot, our road became 
very difficult and fatiguing, the snow lying in such deep ridges as to oblige 
us to take a very circuitous route. Having walked four hours, and crossed 
two small bays, we stopped before noon on a low point. At noon, thermo- 
meter 26°, latitude by meridian altitude, 66° 37' 50", and longitude, by chro- 
nometer, 0°31’ 45" east of the ships. 

* At six P.M. we again moved forward and, crossing a bay of smooth floe 
ice for two miles, came to a small rocky isle, due north of the place of ob- 
servation. This island lay across the mouth of a very snug little cove, 
which from its appearance we supposed likely to afford safe anchorage for 
ships. Off the isle, on an E.b.S. bearing, is a small rocky shoal. Leaving 
this we crossed asecond bay of a mile in breadth, the ice of which gave the 
same indications of deep water. After four hours’ walk we rested for the 
night. At ten P.M. thermometer 8°, weather cloudy, and much scud flying 
from the south-east. 

‘* Small snow began to fall on the 15th, and the wind came from the east- 
ward. At six A.M., thermometer 28°. At half-past eight we started and 
crossed the ice about half a mile to a small island, whence we observed the 
sea to run up W.N.W. Mr. Palmer and myself walked. to its head, a dis- 
tance of about two miles and a half, when we found it shallow, and full of 
low gravelly isles. The breadth was about four miles. We here took bear- 
ings, and then crossed the flat sea ice N.b.E., four miles, to the foot of a 
high hill. The most distant eastern land bore N.E. Before we had crossed 
over the mouth of the bay, which 1 named after Lizurenant Paumer, the 


w 4s = « 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 233 


weather became so very unsettled as at times to hide the land a-head of us. 


1822, 


At eleven A.M. we stopped, thermometer 30°. Heavy snow and drift were ww 


now falling, and the weather continued unchanged for sixty-eight hours, 
during which we were confined to a tent shaped like the roof of a house, 
and eleven feet by six in breadth, in a sitting posture, and all our clothes 
became thoroughly wet from the thawing of the snow on the canvass. On 
the forenoon of the 18th the weather improved, and the wind came round to 
N.N.E. Mr. Palmer and myself ascended the highest hill, two miles east of 
the tent, and thence took bearings of the distant land as laid down in the 
charts. The hills appeared to cease at the range on which we stood, and 
the land as far as the first point, which was named Point Extzapetu, was a 
dead flat. The high distant land to the N.E. appeared as if detached from 
the plain, and as I was afterwards enabled to observe, proved to be a cape, 
which I named Care Witson. We had from this place seen above two 
days’ journey to the eastward; and as our provisions were half and our 
wood nearly all expended, I thought it prudent to return, as there was every 


probability that the weather might prove equally precarious in our journey 


homewards, or that snow blindness might again detain us. We therefore 
made across Palmer Bay in our way back, and at the same time to avoid the 
various bays and turnings of the land, we struck more inland, By the even- 
ing of the 20th we had arrived within three miles of Hoppner’s Strait. 
From our resting-place I observed that on the low islands, (which I had set 
on the 10th, and now named Turton’s Suoats,) much heavy ice was thrown 
up, in all probability by the open water, which was observed in that direction 
to extend as far as Winter Island. 

**On the 2lst we resolved to make a forced march for the ships, as some 
of the people yet suffered from sore eyes, and our clothes and blankets had 
been wet for several days. We therefore started at seven A.M., and crossing 
to Winter Island, proceeded until past noon, when having rested for two 
hours, we again pushed on for the ships and reached them at nine P.M. 

“It was a matter of regret, that the unfavourable state of the season and 
the abundance of snow, which every where covered the ground, had pre- 
cluded all possibility of making any remarks on the state or productions of 
the country over which we had passed. Such rocks as were exposed were 
of gneiss, and we also observed a few detached masses of granite. From 
some pieces of decomposing feldspar which were found projecting through 


the snow, we picked a few lumps of iron pyrites of the size of a pea. Nota 
2H 


18. 


20. 


1822. 
May. 
yw 


Tues, 23. 


Frid, 24. 


234 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


single plant was found in a state of vegetation, which may perhaps account 
for the almost total absence of birds, as we only saw one raven and three 
snow buntings. The deer were all in a most wretched condition, and sub- 
sistence was barely afforded them from the withered plants of the last season ; 
yet it may be inferred that these animals are numerous in the summer, from 
the circumstance of our finding on almost every elevated ridge of hills the 
remains of Esquimaux dwellings, and the piles of stones behind which the 
hunters are used to conceal themselves. We only twice procured water at 
noon, and many hours of painful thirst were in consequence experienced. I 
cannot conclude this account without particularly noticing the great. assist- 
ance derived from our snow shoes, without which it would not have been 
possible to proceed even a fourth of the distance we passed over, the snow 
being, at this season, very deep and soft.” 


On the 23d, our neighbours the Esquimaux, who had long by their own 
account been setting off for Amitioke, at length began in earnest to pack up 
for their departure. As soon as their preparations were finished, I sent for 
them all on board, and gave them one of their own sledges, of which they 
were much in want for carrying their goods, a couple of boarding-pikes, some 
knives, and several tin canisters filled with bread-dust for their journey. 
These presents had scarcely been made them when we had reason to appre- 
hend so sudden an influx of wealth might produce serious effects, especially 
upon the women, whose joy threw them into immoderate fits of laughter, 
almost amounting to hysterics, whica were succeeded by a flood of tears, 
The men seemed thankful, though less noisy in the expression of their 
acknowledgments. As soon as some degree of composure was restored, 
we accompanied them to their baggage, which they had stowed on two of 
the small travelling sledges given them by Captain Lyon, but which they 
now shifted to their own. When all was ready, and some other valuable 
presents had been added to their stock by Captain Lyon, they proceeded to 
the northward, the women assisting to drag the sledge, for they had only one 
large dog and one puppy. On taking their departure, these good-humoured 
and ever-cheerful people greeted us with three cheers in the true Kabloona 
style, a mode of salutation they had witnessed once or twice among us, and 
frequently practised for their amusement and ours. On the 24th we found 
they had only proceeded a few miles, as “John Bull” once more made his 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE, 235 


appearance on board, and returned to his companions in the evening. From 1822. 
this specimen of their travelling, of which.we had as yet little experience, Ree 
we had great reason to hope that their days’ journeys would be found but 

short ones, and that therefore our distance round the north-castern point of 

the American continent was not very considerable. The snow felt softer, and 

more melting was going on to-day than on any before observed, though only 

a few black tips of the rocks were yet visible on shore. The animals now 
began to appear in greater numbers; for on the 25th, a flock of nearly two Sat. 25. 
hundred long-tailed ducks were swimming about in the open water to the 
south-cast of the point. Some of the Esquimaux who came from the nearest 
western village, also reported having seen a great many rein-deer; but they 

had not yet succeeded in killing any. 

On the 27th, at noon, the thermometer in the shade rose as high as 36°, Mon. 27. 
the wind being from the S.W., but on its changing to the N.W. on the fol- 
lowing day, the temperature fell to 12° at midnight. The thermometer 
indeed, at this time, seemed as it were to struggle to rise above the freezing 
point in the course of the day, and not always with success, On the 30th, Thur. 30. 
the first five grouse were killed. These birds were entirely white in their 
plumage, except near the tip of the tail, where the feathers were of a glossy 
black. They were in very good condition and weighed from seventeen to 
eighteen ounces each. Several ducks and silvery gulls were also seen about 
the point, and Mr. Fife fired at a swan. 

At the close of the month of May it was a matter of general observation, Frid. 31.) 
and of course of general regret, how few symptoms of thawing had yet 
appeared either on shore or on the ice. Naturally pursuing our usual com- 
parison with the circumstances of the former winter passed in these regions, 
it was impossible not to recollect that Melville Island had, on the same day 
two years before, advanced full as far as the country now before us, in 
throwing off its winter covering. The parts of the land which were now the 
most bare were the smooth round tops of the hills, on which here and there 
occurred a little pool of water, from which, taking all together within half a 
mile round the ships, we should at this time have had great difficulty in 
filling half a tun. There were also on the lower lands a few dark un- 
covered patches, looking, when viewed from the hills, like islets in an ex- 
tensive sea. Vegetation seemed labouring to commence, and a few tufts 
of the saxifraga oppositifolia, when closely examined, discovered some signs 
of life, A botanist, in short, might have considered vegetation as begun, 
2H 2 


1822, 
May, 
a \ 


June. 
Sat. 1. 


236 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY. 


but in the popular acceptation of the word it certainly had not. Such 
was the state of things on shore at the conclusion of the month of May. 
Upon the ice appearances were not more promising. Except in the im- 
mediate neighbourhood of the ships, where from the constant trampling, 
and the laying of various stores upon the ice, some heat had _ artificially 
been absorbed, it would have been difficult to point out in what respect 
any advances towards dissolution had been made upon the upper surface, 
where six or seven inches of snow yet remained in every part. Here again, 
without any undue partiality for our old winter-quarters, it was natural as 
well as reasonable to bear in mind, that before this time we had there ex- 
perienced several hours of hard rain, than which nothing proves more ef- 
fectual in dissolving the ice. The consequence was that, for the last weck 
in May, at Melville Island, the surface of the ice had assumed quite a green 
appearance ; while here it was still as white as a covering of snow could 
make it. 

Under these circumstances I came to the determination, now that the 
ships were ready for sea, to try what could be effected towards their re- 
lease, by sawing and cutting the ice; for it was vexatious to see open 
water daily in the offing, and not to be able to take advantage of it. Ar- 
rangements were therefore made for getting every thing, except the tent 
and instruments, on board the next day, and for commencing this more la- 
borious occupation on the following Monday. 

We were not the only inhabitants of these regions that seemed to think 
it high time for the summer to have arrived, for there was to-day quite a 
general muster of the birds about the island. A great many ducks and 
silvery gulls, two swans, two pair of ring-plovers, several ravens and grouse 
were seen, besides the usual flocks of the cheerful little snow-buntings. 
Mr. Ross killed a raven and a pair of grotise ; the former of these was quite 
black, and one of the latter, a female bird, had a few speckled feathers on 
each wing, the tail being black near the tip. Captain Lyon was out for se- 
veral hours with his gun and met with cight rein-deer, but found them too 
wild to be approached. The thermometer got up to 41° in the warmest part 
of the day, but remained so high as this only for a short time, a light breeze 
of wind immediately bringing it down to 35°. 

On the Ist of June, having launched a boat at the mouth of the bay, I 
went to sound in that neighbourhood and along the eastern side of the 
island, preparatory to marking out the intended canal. We now found that 


ABSTRACT of the METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL kept on board His Majesty’s Ship 
Fury, at Winter Island, during the Month of May, 1822. 


Fahrenheit’s Prevailing 
; Thermometer. Barometer. Winds. Prevailing 
y Day ssccus lait acme aes sat a - - Weather, 
‘ ae mums hen Swerl mum. | wun. | Mean. || Direction, Velocity. 
’ 1 || +16 +7 .07]| 30.13 | 80.08 [au- 00 NW modt, clear 
’ 2 |} 23 13.42] 90.12 | 90.08 |80, 105 NW light fine and clear 
$ 3 |] 33 25 .06)) 30,16 | 30.10 130, 137 WbN light cloudy 
- 4} 27 22.92]| 90.30 | 30,20 |30, 252 NE light cloudy 
a 5 48 28.33/| 30.40 | 80.27 [30.342 NW light cloudy 
k 6 || 24 21.04] 30.40 NE modt. hazy 
1 7 80 22,02] 30.10 | 20.70 (20.970 NE fresh cloudy 
1 8 28 21.75]| 29.72 NNE modt. fine 
9] 92 25 .42]| 29.73 | 20.68 120,703] NNE Pond fine 
‘ 10 || 28 21.42]| 20.85 | 29.75 |20.813] NNW modt. fine 
De 30.00 oz] NNW modt. cloudy : 
‘ 12 || 93 90,02 | 30.00 [30.003] NNW | moat. fine 
18 || 30 20.08 | 20.02 [20.068] NNW light fine 
‘ 141i] 32 20.90 | 29.70 a0.e17|!Yortrorndty? | light cloudy 
15 |} 20 20,61 | 20.47 |29.540 SE modt. hazy and snow 
: 16 || 34 20.40 29.323 ESE modt. | hazy and snow 
17 || 20 20.60 20.467)| North strong | cloudy=much drift 
18 || 29 20.63 20.608] NW modt. | clear 
19 |} 21 20.053], WNW light | cloudy and snow 
20 |} 26 29.900], NNW light | fine and clear 
21) 31 30.050]/ NNW light fine and clear 
. 22 || 304 20.940) WSW light "cloudy 
23) 45 20.607|| West light ‘ cloudy and snow 
24) 46 29,400 NE light cloudy and snow 
ie 25 | 30 20, 582 NW modt. clear 
, 26 || 31 29.718]/ West light fine 
t 27 || 36 20,617 SW modt. cloudy 
28] 31 0.668 NNW mot, cloudy 
29 | 386 70 |29.783) NW light fine 
30 || 32 .86 | 20.80 |20.822]/ North light fine 


light fine 


Sun. 2. 


Mon. 3. 


238 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


the heavy ice at the entrance of the bay, on its south-east side, was aground 
on rocks, having on them in several parts only seventeen feet water at low 
tide ; and in one place, which till now had been covered by the ice and 
snow, the gneiss peeped above the surface at half-ebb. On the eastern 
side of the island, along which we rowed two or three miles, the soundings 
are regular and deep in most places near the shore. A good deal of ice 
still remained attached to the land; but as far as we could distinguish to 
the N.N.E. there was a lane of clear water, wide enough for the naviga- 
tion of the ships. We met with large flocks of king, eider, and long-tailed 
ducks, the two former species having made their appearance only a day 
or two before. From this time we generally procured a few ducks daily for 
the use of the ships, the whole being served in lieu of other meat, accord- 
ing to the “ game-laws” already established. We saw besides numbers of 
the larus argentatus, and at the mouth of the bay, in seven fathoms water, 
a fish supposed to be a salmon, three feet long, swimming near the bottom. 
The clearness of the water here allowed the rocks at the bottom to be plainly 
distinguished at that depth. 

On the 2d, at three P.M., a thin white cloud was observed to ex- 
tend across the northern sky, from north-east to south-west, being then 
about 65° high in the ceutre. The whole of the heavens to the south- 
ward of this was covered with a similar kind of cloud, that to the north- 
ward exhibiting a clear blue sky. The edge, which was well defined, 
formed a very perfect arch, and here the cloud was much more dense than 
in any other place, reminding one of a veil of gauze, of which there were 
more folds in that part than elsewhere. Though the wind was with us at 
W.b.N., it blew gently over to the S.S.E., still retaining its perfect and 
continuous arch-like form at the margin. In a quarter of an hour it had 
got 20° on the south side of the zenith, in forty minutes was only 25° high, 
and in an hour and a quarter had totally disappeared beneath the southern 
horizon, leaving the whole of the heavens perfectly cloudless. This was 
the most striking phenomenon of the kind we had ever witnessed, and 
while the arch remained near the zenith this magnificent canopy had a sin- 
gularly grand and imposing appearance. 

On the morning of the 3d at six A.M. both the ships’ companies, under 
their respective officers, were set to work upon the ice, A line was accu- 
rately marked out from each of the Fury’s quarters, where they were fifty 
feet apart, diverging to two hundred and fifty at the edge of the floe, the 


SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY. 239 


latter being distant from the ships two thousand and twenty feet, or just 
one-third of a nautical mile. It was proposed to make a cut through the 
ice with the saws, along the two lines thus marked out, and then a trans- 
verse section here and there, the divergency of the sides being intended 
to facilitate the removal of the picces thus detached, by first pulling them 
out with strong purchases, and then floating them down the canal to the sea 
without. Nothing could exceed the alacrity with which this laborious 
work was undertaken, and continued daily from six in the morning till eight 
at night, with the intermission only of meal-times: nor could any thing 
be more lively and interesting than the scene which now presented itself to 
an observer on the south-east point. The day was beautifully clear, the 
sea open as far as the eye could stretch to the northward, and the “ busy 
hum” of our people’s voices could at times be heard, mingling with the 
cheerful though fantastic songs with which the Greenland sailors are ac- 
customed at once to beguile their labour, and to keep the necessary time 
in the action of sawing the ice. The whole prospect, together with the 


hopes and associations excited by it, was to persons cooped up as we had s 


been, exhilarating almost beyond conception. 


In the course of the first week we had completed the two side cuts, and Sun. 9. 


also two shorier ones in the space between the ships; making in all a length 
of two thousand three hundred feet on each side of the intended canal, the 
thickness of the ice being in general four feet, but in one.or two places 
(where the junction of the sea-ice with the bay-floe had occasioned some 
squeezing) above ten feet and a half, scarcely allowing our longest saws to 
work. Laborious as this part of the operation had been, we soon found it 
likely to prove the least troublesome of the whole; for on endeavouring to 
pull out the picces in the manner at first intended, every effort failed, till at 
length we were reduced to the necessity of cutting each block diagonally be- 
fore it could be moved from its place. After a week’s experience, we also 
learned that much time had been lost in completing the whole of the lateral 
cuts at once; for these, partly from frost, and partly by the closing together of 
the sides of the canal, all required sawing a second and in some places even 
a third time. It was surprising also to see how powerful a resistance was 
occasioned by the ‘ sludge” produced in sawing, or as the sailors called it, 
the “ saw-dust,” continuing in the cut and appearing to act like oil inter- 
posed between two plates of glass, in keeping the masses united. In some 
cases also, a saw was squeezed so tight by the pressure of the ice in the 


Pato: 


tech 


= 2 SEE 
LT TTS St ASG oS SnSRsSdesemt 


1822. 
June. 
way 


240 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


cut, that it became necessary to enter a second in order to release it, by 
sawing out a circular plug of ice completely round it. Fatiguing as this 
work proved to the men, I directed it to be continued to-day, the sea re- 
maining so open on the outside as to give every encouragement to our 
exertions. 

While we were thus making trial of what art could effect towards our re- 
lease, nature seemed to be more than usually tardy in rendering her assist- 
ance. The snow was still leaving the land by very slow degrees, and some 
small rain fell for a short time on the 7th, but the mean temperature of the 
twenty-four hours seldom rose above the freezing point. So small indeed 
was the quantity of water now to be obtained on shore, that being apprehen- 
sive of actually going to sea without any in the holds, each ship commenced 
melting snow in her coppers for filling the tanks, the crews being necessarily 
put on an allowance till this was somewhat advanced. The first flower of 
the saxifraga oppositifolia was brought on board as a matter of curiosity by 
our botanists, on the 9th, or one day later than it made its appearance at Mel- 
ville Island in 1820. 

One of our people, in walking over the island, met with a swan’s nest, 
which Captain Lyon went out to see and made a drawing of it. It was 
built of moss-peat, being no less than five feet ten inches in length, four feet 
nine inches wide, and two feet deep, as shewn in the annexed sketch by 
Captain Lyon. 


L a sw 
om anya’ Ww 


ass 


The hole of entrance in the top was eighteen inches wide. Two eggs, each 
weighing about eight ounces, were found in the nest, in which the old birds 
were also sitting at first, but too wild to be approached. The eggs are of a 
cream or brownish-white colour, in some parts a little clouded by a darker 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 241 


tinge. The female subsequently laid a third egg, and soon afterwards both 
birds appeared to have wholly deserted the nest. 

In the second week our progress with the canal had been consider- 
able, it being now completed within two hundred yards of the Fury’s 
stern, As the men had continued this cold and wet work without inter- 
mission for thirteen days together, they were now allowed a half holiday, 
of which they began to stand in need. Several paticnts, as might have 
been expected, had been added to the sick lists of both ships, but by 
timely and skilful attention the complaints had hitherto been overcome. 
The opening we had already made in the ice now rendered it so much 
weaker, and consequently so much more liable to disruption than before, that 
I considered it prudent to remove the tent, observatory, and instruments on 
board, as we might at any time have been forced to sea without a moment’s 
warning. Mr. Fisher, therefore, having completed the desired observations, 
every thing was re-embarked except the transit instrument and meridian- 
mark, these being left to the last for continuing the determination of the 
rates of the chronometers. Among the things now brought on board were 
the garden frames, from which about four pounds of wretched pea-leaves, 
and mustard and cress, had been produced in each garden, by dint of nine 
weeks’ labour and attention. 

Having thus reported ,our own progress for the last weck, I cannot omit 
saying something of that which nature had been making in the same interval. 
A few more flowers of the sazifraga oppositifolia had here and there been 
procured ; but they were still curiosities, the more so as being almost the 
only ones that had yet made their appearance. Some water had now been 
obtained’ from the shore, by baling a gallon or two from each little pool, 
and carrying a cask about on a sledge to be thus filled. At Melville Island, 
at the same period, the ravines were beginning to.be dangerous to pass, and 
were actually impassable during the third week in June. 

The sea still continued open in the offing, whenever the wind blew from 
the northward or westward, and the ducks, of the three species before men- 
tioned, had even increased in numbers. Sand-pipers had also become 
numerous on shore, and a turnstone, being one of a single pair, was killed. 
No grouse had been seen since those last noticed. A ‘quantity of tangle- 
weed appearing in the canal, some pieces of it were pulled up and mea- 
sured ; the length-of one of these was twenty-seven feet and a half, of which 


the stalk occupied twelve. On the 17th we were enabled to unhang the Mon. 


21 


Tues. 18. 


Wed. 19. 


Thur. 20. 


Frid, 21 


SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


Fury’s rudder and to haul it up on the ice, as well for the purpose of a 
general examination, as to put on an iron plate where the frost had cracked 
it since the removal of the snow. We found it quite sound and serviceable 
in every other part, and it was therefore shipped again in a couple of hours, 

On the 18th, the wind getting round to the south-east and east, a thick 
fog, being the first very decided one this season, prevailed during great 
part of the day, and froze hard on the rigging after sunset, the thermometer 
getting down to 31°. At the conclusion of the day’s labour on the 19th 
we had every prospect of getting to sea in forty-eight hours more ; but early 
on the following morning, when the ebb or north-easterly tide had made, 
and was assisted by a breeze from the southward, the whole body of sea- 
ice came forcibly in contact with the bay-floe; which was now so weakened 
by our cutting, as to split the whole way from the edge up to the Hecla’s 
stern, a little to the westward of the canal, the latter being almost imme- 
diately closed with a considerable crush, but without affecting the ships 
which lay beyond it. The closing of our artificial canal had the effect of 
partially opening a natural one at the place where the ice had just been 
detached ; but, as this was incomplete, coming gradually up to a point 
astern of the Hecla, we were at a loss to know on which of the two our 
labour would best be employed. An attempt was first made by four strong 
purchases, stretched from side to side across the new crack, to pull the 
parts together again, and thus to leave our original canal in statu quo. All 
our power however being insufficient to accomplish this, we commenced 
with the saws upon the upper part of the crack, with the intention of widen- 
ing it sufficiently for the passage of the ships. In this work we had made 
considerable progress when, towards evening, it was perceived that this was 
now closing and our former canal re-opening by the action of the wind and 
tide. Relinquishing our last attempt therefore, we lost no time in floating 
some heavy picces of ice into the canal, to serve as wedges for keeping the 
sides apart, in case of any fresh pressure from without again disposing them 
to close. 

The fog still continued and some heavy rain fell at night, both of which 
made a striking alteration in the appearance of the land and ice. The snow 
which was before hard enough to bear a man in walking, now allowed him 
to sink almost to the middle ; and after this time the water was very abundant 
on shore, occurring in numerous small streams and ponds in almost every part. 

At two A.M. on the 21st, the piece of the floe which formed the separa- 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 243 


tion between the two canals drifted bodily outwards, as far as the rocks at 
the mouth of the bay and the ice that lay upon them would permit, taking 
with it a heavy-grounded mass that lay near the Hecla, and on which it had 
before been turning as on a pile or pivot: shortly after a second mass on 
the eastern side of the canal broke off, the separation taking place upon the 
line where the ice had been weakened by the sand we had laid upon it. 
Our work was now at an end, and we had only to wait for a northerly or 
westerly wind to release us from our present ‘ besetment,” for in fact it 
was now nothing more. Directions were therefore given for closely watch- 
ing the motion of the ice, both from the ships as well as by regular visits 
to the shore, at the end of every watch. 

It now becomes my painful duty to turn from these busy occupations, 
where animation, cheerfulness, and hope prevailed, to the sad and solemn 
seenes of sickness and death; for with both of these did it please the 
Almighty to visit us at this period! William Souter, quarter-master of the 
Fury,who in the early part of this week had complained of a slight sickness at 
the stomach, and having been quite relieved was in consequence discharged 
to duty, was again, on the morning of the 21st, affected in a similar manner 
while on deck. Mr. Ross, observing that he was unwell, desired him to go 
below, to which at first Souter objected, saying that it would soon go off; 
but Mr. Ross very properly, in compliance with my general orders on this 
head, insisted on his going to Mr. Skeoch. He was soon relieved by the 
treatment which Mr. Edwards adopted, and continued well till the night of 
the 22d, when some dangerous symptoms having appeared and continued for 
several hours, Mr, Fisher of the Hecla was on the following day called in on 
a consultation. In the evening of the 23d, the symptoms once more ap- 
peared to assume a less threatening aspect, and a hope was indulged that no 
inflammation in the bowels had yet taken place, which there had before been 
great reason to apprehend. As the ship was ready for sea, and no work of 
any consequence remained to be done, every thing was kept as quiet as pos- 


Sat. 22. 


Sun, 23, 


sible on board, that the patient might suffer no disturbance. On the 24th, Mon, 24, 


Souter’s alarming symptoms had so much subsided, that increasing hopes 
were entertained of his continuing to do well; these flattering appearances, 


however, received a sudden check about noon on the 25th, after which Tues, 25. 


time he began rapidly though gradually to droop, and between six and seven 
in the evening breathed his last. 

The impossibility of removing Souter from the sick bay, after the last 
212 


244 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


one alarming change took place, rendered his death, or rather the convulsive 
aA— struggles which for some hours preceeded that event, a dreadful trial to poor 
Reid, whose state had for some time past been scarcely better, the difficulty 
in his breathing having increased to a most distressing degree. Worn out as 
he was by bodily suffering and extreme debility, it is probable that the de- 
pression of spirits occasioned by Souter’s death served to hasten his own 

Wed. 26. dissolution, which took place about the same hour the following evening. 
The slow degrees, by which Reid's death had been long approaching, had 
served in same measure to prepare his mind for that awful event; though like 
other consumptive persons, he would sometimes entertain very sanguine 
hopes of his recovery, and this he continued to do till about the time of 
Souter’s illness, When Souter was dying, Reid remarked that he should not 
be long after him; and on the 26th, when Mr. Fisher had attended and 
prayed with him, he said that he should go at one bell, (half-past six) and 
then enumerated all his clothes to one of the men, who at his request wrote 
them down for him. After four o'clock he did not speak, and gradually sink- 
ing expired at the time he had mentioned, 

Frid. 28. On the 28th, the remains of our deceased shipmates were committed to 
the earth, with every solemnity that so mournful an occasion demanded, 
They were interred in one grave, on a rising ground a few hundred yards 
from the sea to the north-eastward of the ships. A handsome tomb of stone 
and mortar was: built over the spot, having at one end a stone let in, with the 
usual information engraved on it. The sides were plaistered with a kind of 
viscous clay found in one of the ponds, and the top covered with tufts of the 
purple saxifrage, The duties of the ships now permitting it, Captain Lyon 
employed his men in building a similar tomb over the grave of. Pringle. 

Searcely had these melancholy duties been performed when the wind, 
which had been stationary at south for several hours, began to veer a little 
to the westward and the weather gradually to clear up; and by six P.M. 
a fresh breeze blew from the W.S.W., so that we had now every reason 
to expect an almost immediate opening of the ice. It is remarkable that 
previous to this change the wi» |s had been almost constantly between the 
S.E. and E.N.E. for ten days; a circumstance we had never before expe- 
rienced in thege seas, and which certainly produced more melting than a 
period of two months would have done with the wind to the northward 
and westward, The alteration which the surface of the land had undergone 
in this interval is indeed almost inconceivable, except to those who have 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 


experienced the rapidity with which such changes do take place, when once 
they fairly begin in these regions. ‘The whole aspect of the island was so 
thoroughly metamorphosed, in consequence of the disappearance of the 
snow, that the very spots on which we had been in the frequent habit of 
walking for the last nine months, could now scarcely be recognised ; and I 
believe not one among us, if removed from Winter [sland in May and 
brought back in July, would, from the mere aspect of the land, have very 
easily discovered the scene of our winter’s rambles. 

Some other birds had now also arrived in our neighbourhood ; among 
these the golden plovers and phalaropes were tolerably abundant, as also 
boatswains, terns, and dovekies ; the latter had been absent for some time ; 
and it was curious to observe that in the interval they had nearly re-as- 
sumed their summer plumage. Some brent-geese and black-throated divers 
were found to frequent the ponds on shore, and a single specimen of the 
Larus Sabini was procured, being the only individual of that species seen on 
the island. Tligliuk had recognised the bird, (which the Esquimaux call 
Erkeé?. “xgec-dri-o0,) by the engraving of it, and said we should find them 
to the  ’ ward, which piece of information we afterwards found to be 
correct. \»° were surprised that no more grouse had been seen, and some- 
what disappointed at having only procured a single deer, which the Hecla’s 
sportsmen were fortunate in shooting on the 29th; but of these animals 
very few had been met with. Two or three foxes had lately been seen, 
one of which was of a darkish colour and the others quite white. The 
vegetation had also felt the good effects of the late mild and moist weather, 
and a number of plants were now appearing in flower. Among these, spe- 
cimens of the potentilla nivea, saxifraga caspitosa, draba alpina, and orytropis 
arctica, had been procured within the last three or four days. 

The westerly wind did not long continue, but again veered to the south- 
ward and then to the east. On the 30th it suddenly backed to N.N.E., 
from which quarter it soon freshened to a strong gale with heavy snow and 
sleet. This inclement weather did us some service in clearing part of our 
passage out of the bay, which the late winds had blocked up with ice; but to 
the eastward of the island, the main body remained quite close to the shore. 
In the course of the night the wind veered to the north, giving us every 
hope of being speedily at liberty to put to sea. 

Previously to leaving our present winter-quarters, where we had now nearly 
completed our ninth month, I shall offer a few remarks on the extent and 


1822, 
June. 
Pe) 


Sat. 29. 


Sun, 50, 


es ee EE ; . 


1822. 
June. 


246 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


geographical position of Winter Island, and on such of its natural produc- 


\~ tions as I have not had an »pportunity of mentioning in the preceding part 


of this narrative. 
Winter Island is ten miles and a half in length from N.W.b.N. to S.E.b.S., 


and its average breadth from eight to ten miles. It is what seamen call rather 
low land; the height of the S.E. point, which I named Care Fisner, out of 
respect to our chaplain and astronomer, being seventy-six feet, and none of the 
hills above three times that height. The outline of the land is smooth, and 
in the summer, when free from snow, presents a brown appearance. Several 
miles of the north-west end of the island are so low and level that, when the 
snow lay thick upon it, our travellers could only distinguish it from the sea’ 
by the absence of hummocks of ice. 

' The basis of the island is gneiss-rock, much of which is of a grey colour, 
but in many places also the feldspar is so predominant as to give a bright 
red appearance to the rocks, especially about Cape Fisher, where also some 
broad veins of quartz are seen intersecting the gneiss; and both this and 
the feldspar are very commonly accompanied by a green substance, which 
we took to be pistacite, and which usually occurs as a thin lamina adhering 
strongly to the others. In many specimens these three are united, the 
feldspar and quartz displaying tolerably perfect crystals. In some of the 
gneiss small red garnets are abundant, as also in mica-slate. In lumps of 
granite, which are found detached upon the surface, the mica sometimes 
occurs in white plates, and in other specimens is of a dirty brown colour. 
There are several varieties of mica-slate, and some of these have a bril- 
liant metallic appearance like silver; those which are most so, crumble 
very easily to pieces. The most common stone next to those already 
mentioned is lime, which is principally schistose and of a white colour. 
Many pieces of this substance on being broken present impressions of 
fossil-shells, and some have also brown waved lines running quite through 
them. Nodules of flint occur in some masses of lime, but they are not 
common. Iron pyrites is found in large lumps of black stone, tinged 
externally with the oxide of iron; it is here and there met with in small 
perfect cubes. To this list I shall only venture to add grey and red sand- 
stone; and refer to the Appendix for a more detailed account of the 
mineral productions of the island. Of those of the animal and vegetable 
kingdoms | have already, in the course of the foregoing narrative, given all 
the information we could collect. 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 


; Or « 1822, 
3 Mean latitude of the ; By 218 meridian altitudes of © and % . 66 11 26.8 North. June. 
Fury’s Station, By Mr. Fisher’s observations, reduced to the ship 66 11 24.5 _,, ve 


By 12 obs. of Jupiter’s Satellites, by Mr. Fisher 82 53 45.5 West. 
Mean longitude of | By 944 sets of observations, comprehendirg 9460 
the Fury’s Station. lunar distances from © and%. . . . . 8810262 4, 
Used in the construction of the charts *. . . 8309 49.6  ,, 


) Mean dip of the magnetic needle, by Mr. Fisher . . . . . » « $7 49 83 North. 
Variation of the magnetic needle, being a mean between Mr. Fisher’ 8 ob- 
| servations, and those by myself and the officers . .. . . . . 5618 30 West 
) Mean time of high-water on full and change days . . . . «. «. . . 1 11™ 
| Rise of the highest spring-tide . 2. 2. 6 1 1 1 ew ew ee we DSM gin 

», ofthe lowest neap-tide . . . . Seba reer ee ee | 


The flood comes from the northward, snd runs, at aplibg siden, between two and three knots, (See 
| the Tide Table in the APPENDIX.) 


* See this further explained at the end of the Table of Lunar Observations made in the spring 
of 1822, 


a SRE Rs EERE I OA ne a 


ee 


ABSTRACT of the METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL kept on board His Majesty’s Ship 


Fury, at Winter Island, during the Month of June, 1822. 


‘Fahrenheit’s Ther- | Prevailing 
| mometer, | Barometer. Winds, 
Daal wank. | ace a. Prevailing Weather. 
Hy mums | num sayy mum, | mum. | Mean, Direction, | Velocity 
sf ate ab adel ie | ete, Lina i he Fahy 
1 +42 (+21 | 34.08') 29.96) 20,94,29.950 SW light cloudy 
2 | 36 27 wo 2.9 20.10.35 Nariti light cloudy 
3|) 46 | 26 | 31 03 29.33 hill ae cnn ttf light cloudy 
4 | 40%) 20 ‘ei 29.80) ib hase North | modt. cloudy 
5 | 37 23 | 20.96) 29.76; 29.63,29.683 NW modt, cloudy, snow at times 
6 40 | 23 sical sf 29.67)}29.690 NW light cloudy 
7 | 47 | 20 ‘sid 29.67] 29.60/29.632]/ ssi light cloudy 
8 |/ 32 | 22 | 96,42/] 29.55) 29.50129.530]] West fresh cloudy 
9 | 32> | 22 | 27.00 29.83| 29.53/29,662 North modt, cloudy 
10 ]) 36 24 | 29.58) 30.00) 29.90,29. 967 NW modt. cloudy 
11 || Al 25° | 32,92)| 29.90) 29.72/29. 783 NW modt. cloudy, snow at times 
12 || 36 | 25 | 30 l 29.90) 29.55/29.713 wricant tresh cloudy 
| 38 | 24 | 32.33!) 30.00) 29,90/20.958 NW modt, cloudy 
14 || 42 | 26 | 31,25] 29.95) 20.86)20.905)) Tount the } light cloudy 
15 |} 32 | 22 | 97,00] 29.76] 29.58]29.667]] NNE | fresh cloudy 
16 |} 46 | 24 | 37,00] 29.60) 20.52/20.517]] West light fine 
17 |} 45 | 32 | 37,92} 29.76] 20.65)29.703 NW light fine 
18 || 60 | $2 | 39.25] 29.80] 29.76,29.777]) ESE light foggy 
19 || 46 | 31 | 97. 99]| 29.80) 29.75/29.785 ESE light foggy 
20 || 42 | 33 | 96.75|| 29.81] 29.75'20.808, ESE light cloudy 
21 || 39 | 31 | 34.83]] 20.90] 29.81)29.867// ESE light hazy 
22 ]} 40 | 30 | 35.33]| 29.50) ete ae ENE modt, cloudy 
23 |) 40 | 20 | 35,46]| 20.71) 29.68:29.602 East — | modt. cloudy 
24 || 42 | 32 | 36.50) 20.77 so.selosees SE fresh hazy and rain 
25 || 45 | 30 | 37.07]] 20.71] 20.70120.70a]| 8. Easterly | enn — 
26 || 44 | 32 | 87.00]| 20.67] 29.6220.010) ENE’ | light hazy and rain 
27 |} 43 | 32 | 86,67]] 20.59 o.celse.cea SE light hazy and rain 
28 || 49 | 31 | 38.50)| 20.60 wa} SW light hazy and rain 
20 |] 44 | 82 | 97,75]| 29,58 abe waged wy, Souths] Hight cloudy 
30 || 82 | 30 | 31,00} 20.41) 20.10.29.220 NNE | fresh hazy, snow and sleet 


60 20 | 33,97]) 30.00 sete nthe 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 


CHAPTER X. 


DEPARTURE FROM WINTER ISLAND-——-MEET WITH SOME ESQUIMAUX TRAVELLING TO 
THE NORTHWARD——OBSTRUCTIONS AND DANGER FROM THE ICE AND TIDES——DIS- 
COVERY OF THE BARROW RIVER, AND ITS FALL=—-FAVOURABLE PASSAGE TO THE 
NORTHWARD-—ARRIVAL OFF THE.STRAIT OF THE FURY AND HECLA—PROGRESS OP- 
POSED BY A FIXED BARRIER OF ICE—-COMMUNICATE WITH THE NATIVES OF IGLOOLIK 
—UNSUCCESSFUL ATTEMPTS TO GET BETWEEN THE ICE AND THE LAND-——-LAND UPON 
THE CALTHORPE ISLANDS—THE FURY DRIFTED BY THE ICE BETWEEN TWO ISLANDS 
— ACCOUNT OF A JOURNEY PERFORMED IN SLEDGES UP AN INLET TO THE WEST- 
WARD. 


Tue gale which had for some time been blowing from the northward veered 
to the N.W.b.W., and increased in strength on the lst of July, which soon 
began to produce the effect of drifting the ice off the land. In the course 
of the day, a wide lane of water was thus opened to the eastward of the 
island, but the weather was too inclement to think of moving the ships. 
The wind continued to blow very hard during the night, with snow and 
sleet, but began to moderate about four A.M. on the 2d. At six o’clock, the 
report from the hill being favourable, and the wind and weather now also 
sufficiently so, we moved out of our winter's dock, which was indeed in part 
broken to pieces by the swell that had lately set into the bay. At seven we 
made sail with a fresh breeze from W.N.W., and having cleared the rocks at 
the entrance of the bay, ran quickly to the northward and eastward, At 
noon we had Adderley’s Bluff due north of us, distant cight miles, and from 
Captain Lyon’s chart and description easily recognised Point Elizabeth 
beyond it. We now found that the land was completely lined with ice, 
extending in most places from two to five miles to sea-ward, and apparently 
attached to the shores as firmly as any we had seen. The part next the 
land, consisting of a strip one or two miles in width, was smooth and level 


and covered with numerous ponds of water, all which shewed it to have been 
2k 


Tues, 2. 


ae ae EE = EPPS iets EERE 
a En a . * oe a ‘ > 2 


1822, 
July. 
wayw 


Wed. 3. 


250 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


of the last winter’s formation. The outer band of ice was of the “ hun- 
mocky”’ kind, which I have shewn to be produced by external pressure, or 
by the cementing together of a number of broken masses left in the autumn 
by the succeeding winter’s frost. The ice in the offing was also of the latter 
kind and drifting rapidly about with the tides, leaving us a navigable 
channel varying in width from two miles to three or four hundred yards. 

Having passed Adderley’s Bluff, which is much the highest land hereabouts, 
we soon found the ice closing in to the land-floe, and therefore made the 
ships fast to the latter, after a fine run of ten leagues without any obstruc- 
tion. The soundings here were extraordinary, considering the bold appear- 
ance of the land ; for at the distance of two miles from it we had only eleven 
fathoms, on a bottom of small stones and shells; and by the boats we found 
from ten to twenty-two fathoms along the edge of the floe. On their return 
we were again able to get under way, and after gaining another mile or two 
made fast as before. Soon after the sea-ice came in upon us, but with so 
little force or at least in so many broken pieces as to do the ships no injury, 
though it appeared to be approaching in a very threatening manner. This 
motion in the ice was occasioned by the making of the flood-tide, which here 
as at Winter Island we found to come from the northward. 

The ice remained close till half-past four A.M. on the 3d, when, after hav- 
ing sent a boat to sound, we cast off and ran along the margin of the floc. 
In an hour and a half we were obliged again to make fast, to allow a stream 
of ice to drift past us with the tide, after which we once more pushed forward 
for a short time. Betwecn Cape Wilson and Point Elizabeth the land forms 
a considerable indentation, and is here moderately high. In the course of 
the forenoon, as we ran along, a man was voserved standing on a hummock 
of ice in-shore of us. As we concluded it to be one of our friends on their 
way from Winter Island, we hoisted our cciours but could not afford to 
heave-to. At noon we were in latitude, by observation, 66° 50’ 40", and lon- 
gitude, by chronometers, 81° 51’ 12’. 

The closeness of the ice again obliging us to make fast, we soon after 
perceived a party of people with a sledge upon the land-floe in the same 
direction as before. I therefore sent Mr. Bushnan with some of our men 
to meet them and to bring them on board, being desirous of ascertaining 
whereabouts according to their geography we now were. We found the 
party to consist, as we expected, of those who had taken leave of us forty 
days before, on their departure to the northward, and who now readily 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 251 


accompanied our people to the ships; leaving only Togolat’s idiot-boy by the 
sledge, tying him to a dog and the dog to the ice. As soon as they came 
under the bows they halted in a line and, according to their former promise, 
gave three cheers, which salutation a few of us on the forecastle did not fail 
to return. As soon as they got on board they expressed extreme joy at 
seeing us again, repeated each of our names with great earnestness, and 
were indeed much gratified by this unexpected rencontre. Ewerat being 
now mounted on the plank which goes across the gunwales of our ships 
for conning them conveniently among the ice, explained in a very clear and 
pilot-like manner, that the island which we observed to lie off Cape Wilson 
was that marked by Lligliuk in one of her charts, (No. 1.) and there called 
Awlikteewik, pronounced by Kwerat Ow-littée-week. On asking how many 
days’ journey it was still to Amitioke, they all agreed in saying ten; and 
back to Winter Island ooncoktoot, (a great many,) so that we had good reason 
to hope we were not far from the former place. I may at once remark, 
however, that great caution is requisite in judging of the information these 
people give of the distances from one place to another, as expressed by the 
number of seéniks (sleeps) or days’ journeys, to which in other countries a 
definite value is affixed. No two Esquimaux will’ give the same account 
in this respect, though each is equally desirous of furnishing correct infor- 
mation; for besides their deficiency as arithmeticians, which renders the 
enumeration of ten a labour, and of fifteen almost an impossibility to many 
of them, each individual forms his idea of the distance, according to the 
season of the year, and consequently the mode of travelling in which his 
own journey has been performed. Instances of this kind will be observed in 
the charts of the Esquimaux, in which they not only differ from each other 
in this respect, but the same individual differs fror himself at different times. 
It is only, therefore, by a careful comparison of the various accounts, and 
by making allowance for the different circumstances under which the journeys 
have been made, that these apparent inconsistencies can be reconciled, and 
an approximation to the truth obtained. 

Many of our officers and men cordially greeted these poor people as old 
acquaintance they were glad to see again, and they were loaded as usual 
with numerous presents, of which the only danger to be apprehended was 
lest they should go mad on account of them. The women screamed in a 
convulsive manner at every thing they received, and cried for five minutes 
together with the excess of their joy; and to the honour of “ John Bull” be 
2K 2 


252 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


it recorded, he sent by one of the men as he left the ship a piece of seal- 
skin, as a present to Parree, being the first offering of real gratitude, and 
without any expectation of return, that I had ever received from any of 
them. I never saw them express more surprise than on being assured that 
we had left Winter Island only a single day ; a circumstance which might well 
excite their wonder, considering that they had themselves been above forty 
in reaching our present station. They had obtained one rein-deer, and had 
now a large seal on their sledge, to which we added a quantity of bread- 
dust that seemed acceptable enough to them. As our way lay in the same 
direction as theirs, I would gladly have taken their whole establishment on 
board the ships to convey them to Amitioke, but for the uncertain nature of 
this navigation, which might eventually have put it out of my power to land 
them at the precise place of their destination. The ice again opening we 
were now obliged to dismiss them after half an hour's visit, when, having run 
to the Hecla’s bows to see Captain Lyon and his people, they returned to 
their sledge as fast as their loads of presents would allow,them. I here 
annex a chart drawn by Ewerat, which served as satisfactory confirmation of 
lligliuk’s. 

After sailing two miles towards Cape Wilson, we found the ice again closing | 
in with the land-floe and drifting to the south-west with this extraordinary 
flood-tide, which we here found to monopolize full three-fourths of the four- 
and-twenty hours, besides running in general much more rapidly than the 
other. After the Fury was secured, the ice swept the Hecla alongside of her, 
before Captain Lyon had time to secure his hawsers, the tide running full 
a knot anda half. Much havoc is usually to be apprehended in such cases ; 
after some grinding and squeezing, therefore, we considered ourselves to 
have escaped very well with the loss of one of the Hecla’s boats torn to pieces 
by the Fury’s anchor; but were soon afterwards much mortified in disco- 
vering that the latter was rendered unserviceable also, by being badly 
cracked in the shank. 

At midnight the ice began drifting to the north-east with the ebb-tide, 
which seemed to set more in earnest than we had ever seen it do before, 
though for what reason was not apparent. In consequence of this movement, 
a number of heavy floe-pieces came with great violence against our sterns at 
fifteen minutes past one A.M. onthe 4th, setting along the edge of the land-ice, 
and threatening to carry us away, with an equal strain on each of five stout 
hawsers, The uncertainty respecting the soundings off Owlitteeweek, where 


Bwerad AA SOOM He 
ACSC “Ain was’ 


Many Nacruses 


P he Vie parts drawn 
by EWERAT, at 


Ginter Island. 


— 1822. 


me 


Phe Orginad in Che 
AOSSESSCOM Of" 
Cap" Parry. 


SNAGLOOLIRK 
Bie dteen ss uUny 
Oy Cogle 
% 


Many Habruses 


Suerad has £ee 7 
ROWLCVE OF this « va v7 


hallok 


reragawstA 


ey doyle 


Mou ndanee oO Natruses 


~ 
N 
NJ AMITIOKE 
~ 2, Days Mourne 
md . . ‘ Pa Bom Winer P4 
deeyuk eens LOW LSCAMUS Somemes 
-——=- rs MIA 
ypurvny N covered with Water 
N 
N be Concer Ue ‘ sii 19 
1 loche arcbik 
~] 
NI Vowhgniawik 
x > 
ho Nadrises. » 
8 
‘ 
x 
a 


, SOKEAM @ 


Fresh Nater 


rualyoa s 
Ow 
Me SAr ° 
weyad anak Cream vs 


Reon dee? 


Fresh Nader 


— 


bo lana an the Ren deer 


aerection Ooagnah Verrberte 

‘ Serkeaye 
. We eyuning & “rtd 
or Wenter keland 


KBWILLS KH 


re Us rager Mave? 


VOOWOOR 


O Fidimo nue doy ruahy 


Sena 
pee i < 
Fon 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 253 


the numerous grounded masses indicated shoal water, alone prevented our 
casting off and suffering the ships to drive to the north-east ; but the danger 
of drifting, thus hampered, into shoal water and in a strong tide-way is 
evident. 

Between three and four A.M. the tide slackened, having run less than 
four hours to the north-east ; and at five the ice opened, enabling us to cast 
off, but with so light an air of wind from the south-east as scarcely to allow 
us to stem the flood. At half-past six the ice again began to close, and the 
signal was made to secure the ships to the floe. The depth of water, however, 
which the heavy ice draws giving the tide a much greater hold of it than of the 
ships, the latter were unable with the present light breeze to get out of its way. 
In consequence of this the Hecla which, from her situation, had taken the 
lead, was quickly beset at the distance of one-third o¢ a mile from the land- 
ice, and drifted several miles back to the south-west, in spite of every en- 
deavour to reach the floe. The Fury, having just succeeded in running out a 
line and securing her hawsers to it before the ice came upon her, held o: in 
this situation, and was thus separated from her consort. 

Though we had succeeded in placing the Fury in a considerable indenta- 
tion of the floe, the ice during the forenoon drove violently ir{o it, and se- 
veral heavy masses coming in contact with our quarter hecled the ship at 
times a couple of streaks, forcing some of the pieces also to turn over end and 
sink under her bilge, but without doing any injury. The first time that this 
occurred there was great reason to apprehend our being forced from the floe, 
with all the ship’s company absent, they having just been sent to endeayour 
to save some whale-lines that had been carried away. I afterwards found 
that many of Captain Lyon’s men had been also exposed to this risk for se- 
veral hours, in the course of their frequent but unavailing endeavours to 
secure their ship by a hawser to the floe. 

Our latitude observed at noon was 66° 54’ 17", and the longitude, by chro- 
nometers, 81° 44 50", our soundings being thirty-cigi:: fathoms, on a bottom 
of sand and small stones. Neither on this nor on any other occasion during 
our continuance about this parallel of latitude, did we ever distinguish any 
appearance of land to the eastward, though tie weather was frequently very 
favourable. 

After eleven A.M. the ice had remained quite stationary during the whole 
period of the ebb-tide, which seemed not to have power to set it against a 
light air of north-easterly wind, and the same thing occurred at night. On 


1822. 


July. 
—— 


254 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


the morning of the 5th it once more opened out, leaving a lane of water 
which appeared to reach within two miles of the island of Owlitteeweek. 
As we could there discover a bight in the floe, in which better security 
could be found from the ice than in our present exposed situation, we made 
sail forit, after sending a boat a-head with signals to make known the sound- 
ings; the depth of water proved regular, shoaling gradually from thirty- 
eight fathoms, as far as our boat could go. As we proceeded the ice conti- 
nued to open, allowing us to make fast in a very good situation only one 
mile and a quarter from the island, and in eleven fathoms water, from which 
we afterwards warped into nine to endeavour to get out of the tide, which we 
here observed to run with unabated rapidity. We now for the first time 
secured the ship to the smooth and level land-floe, which continued to run 
along the shore at the distance before described. The Hecla still remained 
beset and had now drifted to the distance of twelve miles from us. 

In the afternoon I sent Lieutenant Reid, accompanied by a party of other 
officers, to the island, for the purpose of examining its natural productions, 
as well as with the hope of procuring some game, a herd of deer having been 
observed from the ship. Our gentlemen returned at night, having succeeded 
in killing one of these which gave us fifty-cight pounds of lean venison ; 
and they also brought several ducks. The birds, which were extremely nu- 
merous at this station, consisted principally of the king, eider, and long- 
tailed ducks, the latter being much the most abundant, and occupying almost 
constantly a part of the open water in the bight of the ice where we lay. 
These were, however, not so tame as the other two species, which would 
almost at first allow themselves to be knocked down with a boat-hook, and 
could afterwards be easily approached in a boat under sail, provided the little 
chattering long-tailed ducks did not give the alarm. The tern were also 
tolerably numerous, and a few silvery gulls were seen. On shore a number 
of red and black-throated divers frequented the ponds ; two or three indivi- 
duals of the Larus Sabini were secn, and Mr. Edwards noticed some others 
which, from their size and colour, he took to be snow-geese. The island of 
Owlitteeweek, which is high on its N.N.E. but very low on the south side, is 
composed of gneiss, the rocks presenting on their surface a wavy or serpen- 
tine appearance, The vegetation was found to be poor and backward, and 
very few specimens of plants were here added to our collections. 

As might be expected frum the appearance of the island, the water is not 
deep at a considerable distance from the shore on the south, S.E., and S.W. 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 255 


sides, where there was the largest collection of heavy masses of grounded ice 
that I ever saw in one place. In sounding near these, however, our boats 
never found less than five fathoms, and that by a regular decrease towards 
the shore. 

For the first time since we had come on this coast, we found the ebb-tide 
running full as strong as the flood, and setting morc out from the land or to 
the eastward than before. This latter alteration was probably occasioned 
merely by a turn given it in running from the northward, between Cape 
Wilson and the island, though at the time we were willing to hope that 
it indicated some favourable turn in the land immediately beyond the Cape, 
As we here lay without disturbance from the ice, a good opportunity was 
afforded of observing the time of high and low water compared with that of 
the stream. The result of several observations all nearly agreeing is cer- 
tainly a curious and uncommon one ; for we found that the water continued 
to rise or fall from an hour and a half to an hour and three-quarters after the 
succeeding stream had commenced. Various other instances of similar ano- 
malies in the phenomena of the tides upon this part of the American coast 
were observed in the course of the following week's navigation. 

On the morning of the 6th, the Hecla appeared to be drifting farther to the 
S.W. than before ; but we did not know whether this might not be attributed 
to the deception occasioned by a very extraordinary degree of refraction oc- 
curring to-day in all objects near the horizon, For some hours her masts 
seemed thrown up into one peaked body, like an immense steeple, and at 
other times, she seemed altogether flattened down into the form of a low and 
preposterously long ship without masts. The wind was light and several 
times veered round the compass in the course of the day, with now and then 
a little moist feeling in the atmosphere. 

The latitude of this place was 66° 55’ 58”, the longitude, by chrono- 
meters, being 81° 38' 43”. Mr. Fisher found the dip of the magnetic needle 
to be 87° 47’ 13” and the variation was 62° 17 westerly. The opportunity 
being a favourable one for obtaining the deviation of the needle on each 
direction of the Fury’s head, several hours were thus employed this after- 
noon ; the observations are inserted in the proper table in the Appendix. 

Early on the morning of the 7th, when the ebb-tide had made very strong, 
a piece of the land-ice half a mile long suddenly broke off and drifted 
away, The end of it being fortunately just clear of our bows, we had time 
to sheer out of its way, or we should immediately have been carried among 


Sat. 6. 


Sun, 7. 


1822. 
July. 
ww 


Mon. 8. 


256 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


the loose ice in the offing and beset. This escape we considered the more 
fortunate as the Hecla was soon after observed to be under sail, and rapidly 
nearing us in a clear lane of water. The ice at this time appearing less 
close than it had hitherto been, on the opposite side of the island, I left 
the ship in a boat, to examine the state of it by rowing round the point, that 
in the event of its proving favourable not a moment might be lost in pushing 
on to the northward whenever the Hecla joined us. After rowing about 
four miles to the N.N.E., and finding a lane of open water siifficiently wide 
for the ships with a free wind, as well as a proper depth of water along the 
land-ice, I returned on board, in order to take advantage of the first of the 
ebb-tide in getting the ships along the coast. I was happy to find from 
Captain Lyon, who had joined an hour before my return, that the Hecla had 
escaped from her “ besetment” without injury or loss of any kind, though she 
had remained drifting about the whole time till the morning of the 6th, not- 
withstanding the constant exertions and fatigue of the officers and men in 
endeavouring to secure her to the floc. 

The ships being immediately got under sail, we rounded the point in seven 
fathoms water, at the distance of half a mile from the grounded ice, and 
soon afterwards deepened to fifteen and eighteen fathoms. The wind fail- 
ing, however, and the ice having closed the land since my return in the 
boat, we were soon obliged to haul in-shore and pick up the best births we 
could find among the grounded masses, where we Jay in from ten to twelve 
fathoms but much exposed to the pressure of the sea-ice. Fortunately, 
however, this did not come any closer, and we remained undisturbed . 
which circumstance was partly owing to a fresh breeze from the north- 
west that sprung up in the evening, and continued to blow during the night. 
This had, aiso, the good effect of driving the ice some distance off the land, 
of whiecu we did not fail to take advantage; and at half an hour before mid- 
night cast off and made sail with the young ebb-tide. The weather was 
dull ard overcast, with a dense fog hanging over most parts of the land. 

Our progress however was but small; for about three A.M. on the 8th, 
after advancing only four or five miles, we had reached the end of the 
open water and were therefore obliged to shorten sail, with no pleasing 
prospect before us as to the birth we might expect to find for our security. 
On this northern side of Cape Wilson the land ice had assumed a different and 
more dangerous character than before. The whole way from Winter Island 
its margin bore evident marks of tremendous external pressure, but it had 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 257 


hitherto afforded numerous bays or indentations, into which a ship might 
be taken with some hone of finding shelter from the sea ice. Here however 
the floe, besides bein w:itinitely heavier and more ‘“* hummocky,” (for it 
was in many places from eight to twelve feet above the water,) was also so 
straight along its edge as to offer not the smallest security; while the enor- 
mous masses, every where piled up by recent pressure, appeared like so 
many beacons placed to warn a ship of the fate she might expect to meet, if 
obliged to make fast in so exposed a situation. Such however is the nature 
of this navigation, and the necessity of pushing on to the last moment of 
any clear water appearing, that to bestow a thought on our next place of se- 
curity, until that moment arrives, would be to lose opportunities which no 
exertions could regain, and ultimately to incur certain iailure. We therefore 
made fast on this occasion in the first place that presented itself, for there 
was in fact no choice ; neither was there any time to lose, as the ice was 
beginning to close, and would soon commence drifting to the southward, so 
that our only chance of holding on consisted in securing our hawsers as 
quickly and effectually as possible. 

The place where we now lay was distant about a mile and three quar- 
ters from the land, and we had twenty-one fathoms, the soundings having 
deepened to this as we receded from Owlitteeweck. At the distance of a mile 
and a half outside of the land ice, we found from thirty-five to thirty-nine 
fathoms, being the deepest casts we had obtained since leaving the imme- 
diate neighbourhood of Winter Island. The ebb-tide here set to the 
N.N.E., the flood to the S.8.W., as before; but the former now ran about 
five hours to the other’s seven ; it was not however so strong by more than 
half a knot, so that the southerly, set still considerably predominated. 

‘rhe ebb did not slacken till forty minutes past five A.M., when the stream 
almost immediately began to set to the southward, bringing with it as usual 
the whole body of drift ice trailing along the edge of the land floe, and 
quickly filling the narrow channel through which we had lately been making 
our way to the northward. Fresh hawsers were now run out and secured 
to the hummocks with all possible strength and care, and the ships so placed 
that their sides might bear pretty equally fore and aft against the softest 
parts of the floe. Notwithstanding these precautions, at nine A.M. the 
Hecla broke adrift and, as we were soon after informed by signal, with some 
damage to her rudder and the loss of seven hawsers. I subsequently re- 
ceived from Captain Lyon the following account:— 


2L 


pe 
ST Sr PTE 


waite cheers all 


<A RRERERERrTemnapESeceONEERN- capes 


258 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


** The flood-tide coming down loaded with a more than ordinary quantity 
of ice pressed the ship very much between six and seven A.M., and ren- 
dered it necessary to run out the stream cable, in addition to the hawsers 
which were fast to the land ice. This was scarcely accomplished when a 
very heavy and extensive floe took the ship on her broadside and, being 
backed by another large body of ice, gradually lifted her stern as if by the 
action of a wedge. The weight every moment increasing obliged us to veer 
on the hawsers, whose friction was so great as nearly to cut through the 
bitt-heads, and ultimately set them on fire, so that it became requisite for 
people to attend with buckets of water. The pressure was at length too 
powerful for resistance, end the stream cable, with two six and one five 
inch hawsers, went at the same moment. Three others soon followed. The 
sea was too full of ice to allow the ship to drive, and the only way by 
which she could yield to the enormous weight which oppressed her was by 
leaning over on the land ice, while her stern at the same time was entirely 
lifted more than five feet out of the water. The lower deck beams now 
complained very much, and the whole frame of the ship underwent a trial 
which would have proved fatal to any less strengthened vessel. At this 
moment the rudder was unhung with a sudden jerk, which broke up the 
rudder case and struck the driver boom with great force. In this state I 
made known our situation by telegraph, as I clearly saw that in the event of 
another floe backing the one which lifted us, the ship must inevitably turn 
over, or part in mid-ships. The pressure which had been so dangerous at 
length proved our friend, for by its increasing weight the floe on which we 
were borne burst upwards, unable to resist its foree. The ship righted and, 
a small slack opening in the water, drove several miles to the southward 
before she could be again secured to get the rudder hung; circumstances 
much to be regretted at the moment, as our people had been employed 
with but little intermission for three days and nights, attending to the safety 
of the ship in this dangerous tideway.” 


The Hecla having been thus carried adrift by the irresistible pressure 
of the ice, which still continued to bear down upon us with the same 
violence as before, it became evident that all ordinary means must now 
prove insufficient to retain the Fury in her present station. The inade- 
quacy of any number of hawsers to bear the requisite strain, arises princi- 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 259 


pally from the impossibility of keeping them all equally tight, in conse- 
quence of the frequent changes in the direction of a ship's head by the irre- 
gular pressure of the ice. The only method therefore, by which it seemed 
practicable to prevent being forced adrift, was to run out a bower cable to 
some of the numerous large hummocks upon the Jand-floe, which was ac- 
cordingly done, and all the hawsers then got on board. In the course of the 
afternoon the Fury withstood several very violent pressures, which gave us 
some reason to apprehend damage to the windlass, if not to the ship’s bows, 
so heavy was the strain at times upon the cable, but fortunately every thing 
held on. As soon as the cbb-tide had made, we took the opportunity af- 
forded by a small lane of open water, to endeavour to save the Hecla’s haw- 
sers that had been carried away, which service was performed in a couple of 
hours by the boats under the command of Licutenant Reid ; and to avoid de- 
tention to the Hecla a staff was erected on the spot, with a note for Captain 
Lyon’s information, The Hecla had in the mean time been driven several 
miles back to the southward, after vainly endeavouring for some hours to 
secure fresh hawsers to the land-floe, and at the frequent and indescribably 
painful risk of having her men separated from their ship by the rapid and 
irregular motion of the ice. In the course of the evening an immense floe 
was separated from the land, just beyond us to the northward and, drifting out 
into the main stream of the tide, left the first clear space completely as far as 
the shore, that we had yet seen since leaving Winter Island. This occur- 
rence, though it gave us evident proof that the disruption of the ice was 
rapidly going on, at the same time increased the hazard of this navigation ; 
for the pressure of such a floe in motion in a strong tide-way would be suf- 
licient to crush the stoutest ship, while the absence of land-ice in that part 
would render her more liable than before to be forced upon the rocky 
shore. ‘The wind came from the S.S.W. at night, with clear and delightful 
weather, and a sky that might vie in beauty with that of an Italian landscape. 
The flood-tide was Jess strong, and therefore gave us less disturbance than 
that of the moraing. 


At half-past eight on the morning of the 9th, a considerable space of open Tues, 9, 


water being left to the northward of us by the ice that had broken off the 
preceding night, I left the Fury in a boat for the purpose of sounding along 
the shore in that direction, in readiness for moving whenever the Hecla should 
be enabled to rejoin us. 1 found the soundings regular in almost every part, 
and had just landed to obtain a view from an eminence, when I was recalled 
2L2 


i, 
7 
i 


Sin Se mI a. me ee ile 
5 ee 


1822. 
July. 


Wed. 10. 


260 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


by a signal from the Fury, appointed to inform me of the approach of any ice. 
On my return, I found the external body once more in rapid motion to the 
southward with the flood-tide, and assuming its usual threatening appearance, 
For an hour or two the Fury was continually grazed, and sometimes heeled 
over by a degree of pressure which, under any other circumstances, would not 
have been considered a moderate one, but which the last two or three days’ 
navigation had taught us to disregard, when compared with what we had 
reason almost every moment to expect. A little before noon a heavy floe 
some miles in length, being probably a part of that lately detached from the 
shore, came driving down fast towards us, giving us serious reaSon to appre- 
hend some more fatal catastrophe than any we had yet encountered. Ina 
few minutes it came in contact, at the rate of a mile and a half an hour, with 
a point of the land-ice left the preceding night by its own separation, break- 
ing it up with a tremendous crash, and forcing numberless immense masses, 
perhaps many tons in weight, to the height of fifty or sixty feet, from’ whence 
they again rolled down on the inner or land side, and were quickly succeeded 
by afresh supply. While we were obliged to be quict spectators of this 
grand but terrific sight, being within five or six hundred yards of the point, 
the danger to ourselves was two-fold ; first, lest the flce should now swing in, 
and serve us much in the same manner; and secondly, lest its pressure should 
detach the land ice to which we were secured, and thus set us adrift and at 
the mercy of the tides. Happily however neither of these occurred, the floe 
remaining stationary for the rest of the tide and setting off with the ebb 
which made soon after, In the meanwhile the Hecla had been enabled to 
get under sail, and was making considerable progress towards us, which de- 
termined me to move the Fury as soon as possible from her present situation 
into the bight I had sounded in the morning; where we made fast in five and 
a half fathoms alongside some very heavy grounded ice, one third of a mile 
from a point of land lying next to the northward of Cape Wilson, and which is 
low fora short distance next the sca, At nine o’clock a large mass of ice fell 
off the land-floe and struck our stern; and a “calf” lying under it, having 
lost its superincumbent weight, rose to the surface with considerable force 
lifting our rudder violently in its passage but doing no material injury. 

Early on the morning of the 10th, the breeze having freshened up from 
the S.S.W., the prospect to the northward was truly gratifying; and at fifteen 
minutes after one A.M., when the Hecla had nearly joined us, we made 
all sail alongshore, soon deepening the water to twenty fathoms, and after- 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 261 


wards to thirty-five no bottom, at the distance of a mile and three quar- 18? 
uly. 


22. 


ters from the land. Very little snow was now lying upon the ground, and ww 


numerous streams of water rushing down the hills, and sparkling in the beams 
of the morning sun, relieved in some measure the melancholy stillness which 
otherwise reigned on this desolate shore. At three A.M., we had sailed as 
near the end of the open water as we could safely venture, though ina sea 
without so strong a tide-way we might still perhaps have threaded a passage 
through the ice some miles farther. Here however it was indispensably ne- 
cessary if possible to secure the ships before the strength of the flood-tide 
should come on, and we accordingly hauled in-shore for that purpose. The 
land along which we had been sailing was that from which the ice had been 
principally detached, so that we had doubts of finding either the means of 
holding fast or any security from driving on shore. On sending the boats to 
examine the soundings, however, both were fortunately discovered, there 
being abreast of the ships a number of heavy insulated masses of ice lying 
aground*, with small but sufficient patches of the land-floe within them 
still. adhering to the beach. We here made fast in six fathoms, about a 
hundred yards from the shore, and were not sorry to obtain a little rest, as 
well as a temporary cessation from anxiety respecting the immediate safcty 
of the ships. It was low water by the shore at fifty minutes past nine A.M., 
having fallen two feet in one hour and ten minutes. 

After noon we landed to take.a walk, and found the mineralogical cha- 
racter of this part of the coast nearly the same as before, the rocks being 
composed of greyish gneiss with fragments of granite, quartz, mica-slate, 
some iron-pyrites, and most of the other substances observed at Winter- 
Island, lying scattered on the surface. Many of the stones found in the 
streams were coated with a thin crust of the oxide of iron. There was no 
absolute want of vegetation, many considerable patches occurring entirely 
covered with moss, grass, and other plants ; but the whole of these were ina 
remarkably backward state, the saxifraga oppositifolia being, I believe, the only 
one as yet in flower. The andromeda tetragona was here very abundant, and 
numerous tufts of sorrel were just putting forth their first red leaves. A 
number of rein-deer were seen, but they proved too wild for us, and birds 
were unusually scarce. Captain Lyon picked up an Esquimaux lamp, curious 


* These for distinction’s sake we were in the habit of calling “ bergs,” though we saw none 
of the immense bodies properly so called, after reaching about the middle of Hudson's Strait. 


ERE RATE — SE = 


TES ger 
4 . Ee ane ae 


greet oy Fs 


262 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


as on account of its being made of two pieces of red granite firmly cemented 
ms together, instead of pot-stone as usual. 

At high water this evening, which took place at four P.M., the berg on 
which our chief dependence was placed for security from external pressure, 
rolled completely over, but still held fast on the ground. By the swell 
thus occasioned a disruption of some of the land-ice also took place, which 
for some time threatened to carry us adrift. At the same time a heavy 
floe coming in promoted by its pressure this unwelcome disturbance, and 
releasing a “ calf” under the Fury’s stern, made it rise with consider- 
able violence against her counter. The stream-cable was now fastened 
round the berg, as the only remaining security against our being forced on 
shore, should the land-ice wholly desert us; but the water falling from this 
time gave us some hours’ respite. 

The northerly breeze kept the ice moving to the southward duiing the 
whole of the ebb-tide, as had been so often remarked before, shewing how 
weak the stream of that tide is on this coast, comparatively with the other, and 
the consequent necessity of holding on somewhere or other at all risks, when 
the state of the ice does not admit of making any progress to the northward. 
If the safety of a ship were alone to be consulted, it would undoubtedly 
answer that purpose most effectually, to let her float about among the loose 
ice in the offing; but a very few days’ drift would in this case carry her to 
Southampton Island, and the labour of weeks thus be inevitably lost. 

Thur. 11, At high water on the 1lth the ice, to which the Hecla’s hawsers were 
secured, was dislodged from the shore, partly by the rise of tide, and partly 
by some heavy floe-pieces coming against it: she therefore shifted her birth 
a little to the northward of us, in order to avoid the danger of our being 
too near each other, for our situation was now extremely precarious. 
Several patients were about this time added to our sick-list, with lum- 
bago and disordered bowels, occasioned by the incessant exertions and 
exposure that had of late been required of them. The weather continued 
what the Greenland sailors call “ too fine,” the wind being too light to 
blow the ice off the land, and enable us to pursue our way to the northward. 

Our latitude was here 67° 11' 30"; the longitude, by chronometers, 81° 24'37’; 
and the variation of the magnetic needle 70° 28' 12" westerly; being a very 
rapid increase in this phenomenon since our last observations on the ice. 

The back land seen from the ships hereabouts is about nine hundred feet 

above the sea, but shelving pretty gradually down towards the water. Here 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 263 


d and there occur some beaches of rounded stones ; but the chief part of the Jaly 
shore presents a smooth gneiss rock, having numerous streams of water ww 

n trickling over it. We were not, however, under the necessity of going even 

, thus far for a supply of this necessary article, abundance of the purest kind 

ll . being found on every large piece of ice at this season. 

h -At half an hour before midnight, when it was just low water by our mark 

y on the ice, a violent rush of tide suddenly came from the northward, threat- 

d ening to carry us adrift with three stout hawsers a-head. This kind of 

r- occurrence which, in a smallc: uegree, was a very common one, added much 

d to the anxious nature of this navigation; for as it happened indifferently at 

n all times of tide, the most incessant attention and exertion were barely 

s sufficient to enable us to obviate its effects. It was as easy to account for 


this irregularity, as it was difficult to resist its impetuosity. It frequently 


e happened that some heavy floe-pieces, drifting down towards us, wedged 
N themselves in between the grounded masses that lay a-head of the ships, 
1 where they produced the effect of turning the stream of tide by forming a 
n temporary dam. By the continual pressure of the water these would often 
at length break, or otherwise disengage themselves, occasioning a violent 
y rush of the tide through the now unobstructed passage, and frequently 
2 forcing themselves with extreme violence against the ships’ bows. 
) As the time of high water approached, on the morning of the 12th, the Frid. 12. 
land-ice began to float off, scarcely giving us time to cast off the hawsers 
} from it, and leaving the whole line of the shore entirely bare. Having now 
r nothing to steady us towards the shore, an edly of the tide carried the Fury 
with some violence against the largest berg, nearly destroying one of our 
} i quarter-boats. For a few minutes her situation was a most disagreeable 


one, for the heavy floe-pieces now setting in from the offing caused the 
berg, alongside of which we were immoveably fixed, to take a roll outward, 
and a similar one in the opposite direction would inevitably have placed us in 
some very awkward predicament. 
: As soon as the stream of ebb had cleared the shore a little, we cast off and 
shifted our birth one mile farther to the northward, being at noon, by observa- 
tion, in lat. 67° 12 38”. At four P.M., the prospect having very much im- 
proved, we again made sail with a light air of south-easterly wind ; and after 
running four or five miles in regular soundings, found the ice too close to 
proceed much farther, and at the same time observed an opening in the land, 
appearing like a river, a little beyond us. No land-ice being in sight, the 


PT EEE Re “YEP SRT 
m Senet 


Ere 


Sat. 13, 


264 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


signal was made to prepare to anchor ; and in the mean time I left the ship 
in a boat to examine the soundings of the coast. On approaching the open- 
ing we found so strong a current setting out of it, as to induce me to taste 
the water which proved scarcely brackish, and a little closer in perfectly 
fresh, though the depth was from fourteen to iifteen fathoms. As this stream 
was a sufficient security against any ice coming in, 1 determined to anchor 
the ships somewhere in its neighbourhood ; and having laid down a buoy in 
twelve fathoms, off the north point of the entrance, returned on board, when 
I found all the boats a-head endeavouring to tow the ships in-shore. This 
could be effected, however, only by getting them across the stream of the 
inlet to the northern shore; and here iinding some land-ice, the ships were 
secured late at night, after several hours of extreme labour to the people in 
the boats. 

On the morning of the 13th, the ice being still close in with the land just 
to the northward of us, I determined on examining the supposed river in the 
boats, and at the same time to try our luck with the seines, as the place 
appeared a likely one for salmon. Accompanied by several of the officers, 
therefore, as well as by Captain Lyon in his own boat, I left the Fury at half: 
past eight A.M., and was soon followed by a second boat from each ship. 
Immediately on opening the inlet we encountered a rapid current setting 


outwards, and after rowing a mile and a half to the N.W.b.W., the breadth 


of the stream varying from one-third of a mile to four or five hundred yards, 
came to some shoal water extending quite across. Landing on the sonth 
shore and hauling the boats up above high-water mark, we rambled up 
the banks of the stream, which are low next the water, but rise almost 
immediately to the height of about two hundred feet. As we proceeded we 
gradually heard the noise of a fall of water; and being presently obliged to 
strike more inland, as the bank became more precipitous, soon obtained a 
fresh view of the siream running on a much higher level than before, and 
dashing with great impetuosity down two small cataracts. Just below this, 
however, where the river turns almost at aright angle, we perceived a much 
greater spray, as well as a louder sound ; and having walked a short distance 
down the bank, suddenly came upon the principal fall, of whose magnificence 
I am at a loss to give any adequate description. At the head of the fall, or 
where it commences its principal descent, the river is contracted to about one 
hundred and fifty feet in breadth, the channel being hollowed out through a 
solid rock of gneiss. After falling about fifieen feet at an angle of 30° with a 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 265 


vertical line, the width of the stream is still narrowed to about forty yards, 
and then, as if mustering its whole force previous to its final’descent, is pre- 
cipitated in one vast continuous sheet of water almost perpendicular for 
ninety fect more. So nearly, indeed, is the rock perpendicular, that we were 
enabled to let down a sounding lead and line, for the purpose of measuring 
its astual height, while a man descended from crag to crag with a second line 
attached to him, to see when the lead touched the water below. The dashing 
of the water from such a height, produced the usual accompaniment of a cloud 
of spray, broad columns of which were constantly forced up, like the suc- 
cessive rushes of smoke from a vast furnace, and on this, near the top, a vivid 
wis or rainbow was occasionally formed by the bright rays of an unclouded 
sun. ‘* The roaring of the mountain-cataract,” which constitutes a principal 
feature of the sublime in scenery of this magnificent nature, was here almost 
deafening, and as we were able to approach the head of the fall, even as 
close as a single yard, the very rock seemed to suffer a concussion under our 
feet. The basin that receives the water at the foot of the fall is nearly of a 
circular form, and about four hundred yards in diameter, being rather wider 
than the river immediately below it. The fall istabout three-quarters of a 
mile above our landing-place, or two miles and a quarter from the entrance of 
the river. 

After remaining nearly an hour, fixed as it were to the spot by the no- 
velty and magnificence of the scene before us, we continued our walk up- 
wards along the banks; and after passing the two smaller cataracts, found the 
river again increased in width to above two hundred yards, winding in the most 
romantic manner imaginable among the hills, and preserving a smooth and un- 
ruffed surface for a distance of three or four miles that we traced it to the 
south-west above the fall. What added extremely to the beauty of this 
picturesque river, which Captain Lyon and myself named after our mutual 
friend, Mr. Barrow, Secretary to the Admiralty, was the richness of the 
vegetation on its banks, the enlivening brilliancy of a cloudless sky, and 
the animation given to the scene by several rein-deer that were grazing 
beside the stream. Our sportsmen were fortunate in obtaining four of these 
animals; but we had no success with the seines, the ground proving alto- 
gether too rocky to use them with advantage or safety. The cider-ducks 
were here tolerably numerous, and we also met with some black-throated 
divers, golden plovers, and snow-buntings, On first entering the river two 
2M 


1822. 
July. 
Nees 


Cee ear 
ar naense 


Sun, 14, 


266 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


birds flew over our heads, appearing larger than cider-ducks, but with much 
less white on their backs and wings, and without the duck bill. On our 
return down the river Captain Lyon landed on the opposite side, for the pur- 
pose of making a drawing of the fall in the best point of view; and we 
then returned on board at thirty minutes past two P.M., after the most gra- 
tifying visit we had ever paid to the shore in these regions. 

The entrance of this river lies in lat. 67° 18' 05", and in longitude, by 
chronometers, 81° 25'20". We found at half tide from ten to twelve feet 
water in mid-channel, for a mile below the first shallows, and it then 
quickly deepens to as many fathoms. The banks of the river had still 
a good deal of snow cleaving to them in some places, and we narrowly 
escaped being swamped by a heavy mass falling off into the water, just after 
we had rowed away from the spot. The mineralogical character of the land 
in this neighbourhood continued the same as that last described. 

We found on our return that a fresh southerly breeze, which had been blow- 
ing for several hours, had driven the ice to some distance from the land ; so 
that at four P.M., as soon as the flood-tide had slackened, we cast off and made 
all possible sail to the northward, steering for a headland remarkable for hav- 
ing a patch of land towards the sea that appeared insular in sailing alongshore. 
As we approached this headland, which I named after my friend Mr. Epwarp 
Leycrster PENruyN, the prospect became more and more enlivening; for 
the sea was found to be navigable in a degree very seldom experienced in 
these regions, and, the land trending two or three points to the westward 
of north, gave us reason to hope we should now be enabled to take a decided 
and final turn in that anxiously-desired direction, As we rounded Cape 
Penrhyn at seven P.M., we began gradually to lose sight of the external 
body of ice, sailing close along that which was still attached in very heavy 
floes to this part of the coast. A headland, four leagues to the northward of 
Cape Penrhyn, was named after Mr. Ronert Brown, a gentleman with 
whose knowledge and labours in the department of botany every naturalist 
is acquainted. Both wind and tide being favourable, our progress was rapid 
and unobstructed, and nothing could exceed the interest and delight with 
which so unusual an event was hailed by us. Before midnight the wind 
came more off the land, and then became light and variable, after which it 
settled in the north-west with thick weather for several hours. 

As, however, we had now a channel open between the ice and the land, 


~—." 
— - 
= =~ 2 
— 


= 


ee ee 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 267 


not less than nine miles in breadth, we were enabled to stand off and on by 1822. 
the soundings, and even to make considerable progress to windward. The x 
coast was here again nearly clear of land-ice, and wherever a patch did occur, 
the rest seemed to have been divided from it very lately, the margin being 
free from any appearance of rubbing or external pressure. The weather 
clearing up in the course of the forenoon, on the 14th, we perceived the land 
continued nearly its former trending, and that the navigable channel was 
from four to five leagues wide, the situation of the main body of the ice being 
clearly marked out by a bright blink,” in its usual arch-like form, over- 
spreading the whole eastern horizon. Our northern extreme now in sight 
was a piece of low sandy-looking land, which had the appearance of 
being detached from the higher and darker land to the westward; and 
by comparing its situation with that of the island of Amitioke, laid down 
in the Esquimaux charts, ‘t seemed probable that it was this station which 
we had now reached. A strip of the same kind of low land as that above 
mentioned was, also, observed to run along the continental shore, between 
the hills and the sea, for several leagues to the southward of our present 
station. It was here, indeed, that, in sailing to the northward, we began 
gradually to lose sight of the bold primitive mountains of the maia- 
land, the intervening strip of low and yellow-looking shore becoming more 
and more broad, and the soundings off the coast altering their character at 
the same time as might be expected, but still preserving their regularity ac- 
cording to the distance from the land. We observed at noon in lat. 68° 02 
45", our longitude, by chronometers, being 82° 13' 32", by which it appeared 
that we had been favoured with an unobstructed run of fifty miles, an event 
of no trifling importance in this tedious and uncertain navigation, The sea- 
horses, of which we had occasionally seen a few for one or two days past, 
were here much more numerous; which rather served to confirm us in the be- 
lief that we were now off Amitioke, in the neighbourhood of which the Es- 
quimaux had represented them as abundant. From this part of the coast 
northwards, as far at least as Igloolik, these animals are perhaps indeed as 
numerous as in any part of the world. 

We continued beating to the northward under all sail during the night, Mon, 15, 
the wind remaining steadily from that quarter with smooth water and 
extremely fine weather, Our latitude by observation at noon was 68° 22 21", 
and the longitude by chronometers, 81° 56’ 55", The land continued to be 
of the same character as befure described, the hills at the back having now 
@M2 


oo 


268 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


receded to a considerable distance from the coast, and the low shore, after — 
making a large bend, again projecting a good deal to the eastward. 

In the course of this day the walruses became more and more numerous 
every hour, lying in large herds upon the loose pieces of drift-ice ; and it 
having fallen calm at one P.M., we despatched our boats to endeavour to 
kill some for the sake of the oil which they afford. On approaching the 
ice our people found them huddled close to, and even lying upon, one 
another in separate droves of from twelve to thirty, the whole number 
near the bocts being perhaps about two hundred. Most of them waited 
quietly to be fired at; and even after one ox two discharges did not seem to 
be greatly disturbed, but allowed the people to land on the ice near them, 
and, when approached, shewed an evident disposition to give battle. After 
they had got into the water, three were struck with harpoons and killed from 
the boats. When first wounded they became quite furious, and one, which 
had been struck from Captaii: Lyon’s boat, made a resolute attack upon her, 
and injured several of the planks with its enormous tusks. A number of the 
others came round them, also repeatedly striking the wounded animals with 
their tusks, with the intention either of getting them away or else of joining 
in the aitack upon them. Many of these animals had young ones which, 
when assaulted, they cither took between their fore-flippers to carry off, 
or bore away on their backs. Both of those killed by the Fury’s boats 
were females, and the weight of the largest was fifteen hundred-weight and 
two quarters nearly; but it was by no means remarkable for the largeness of 
its dimensions. The peculiar barking-noise made by the walrus, when irri- 
tated, may be heard, on a calm day, with great distinctness at the distance of 
two miles atleast. We found musquet-balls the most certain and expeditious 
way of despatching them after they had been once struck with the harpoon, 
the thickness of their skin being such, that whale-lances generally bend with- 
out penctrating it. One of these creatures, being accidentally touched by one 
of the oars in Lieutenant Nias’s boat, took hold of it between its flippers and 
forcibly twisting it out of the man’s hand, snapped it in two. They produced 
us very little oil, the blubber being thin and poor at this season, but weve 
welcome in a way that had not been anticipated ; for some quarters of this 
‘marine beef,” as Captain Cook has called it, being hung up for steaks, the 
meat was not only eaten, but eagerly sought after on this and every other 
occasion throughout the voyage, by all those among us who could overcome 
the prejudice arising chiefly from the dark colour of the flesh. In no other 


OF A-NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 269 


respect that I could ever discover, is the meat of the walrus when fresh- 
killed in. the slightest degree offensive or unpalatable. The heart and liver 
are. indeed excellent. 

While our boats were thus engaged a light air, that had sprung up from the 
southward, gradually increased, and as -o0n as our game was hoisted in we 
bore up under all sail along the land, which still continued so extremely low 
that.as the sun got round ahead we could scarcely distinguish its points, and 
ran along chiefly guided by the soundings. In the course of the night we 
passed thousands of walruses, large herds of which were lying with their 
young on almost every loose piece of ice we saw. At midnight we were 
abreast of three small islets, which I consider to be the northernmost of those 
called by the Esquimaux ‘ Ooglit,” and so marked in the chart. We saw 
something like huts or tents upon them, but no other signs of inhabitants : 
we know however that they are at times a principal resort of many of the 
Esquimaux ; and Iligliuk first directed our attention to them as the birth- 
place of her son. 


After an unobstructed night’s run, during which we met with no ice ex- Tues. 16. 


cept in some loose ‘ streams,’’ the water became so much shoaler as to make 
it necessary to proceed with greater caution. Though the land along which 
we had been sailing had ai! been nearly cqually lew, we now began to de- 
crease our soundings to nine, eigit, and seven fathoms, and the water ap- 
peared much discoloured in some places. About this time aiso a great deal 
of high land came in sight to the northward and eastward, which, on the 
first inspection of the Esquimaux charts, we took to be the large portion of 
land called Keiyuk-tarruoke *, between which and the continent the pro- 
mised strait lay that was to lead us to the westward. So far all was satis- 
factory; but after sailing a few miles farther it is impossible to describe 
our disappointinent and mortification in perceiving an unbroken sheet of ice 
extending completely across the supposed passage from one land to the 
other, It is important here to notice that our chief disappointment arose, 
not from the mere presence ef ice blocking up the desired passage, to which 
our most anxious hopes ba. iong by anticipation been directed, but from 
the nature of the ice which constituted our present impediment. This con- 
sisted of a floe so level aud continuous, that a single glance was sufficient to 


* This name being applied by the Eequimaux to several other portions of land, «|! of which 
are insular, or nearly so, it is probable that the word simply signifies an isiand, 


1822. 


July. 
ww 


270 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


assure us of the disagreeable fact, that it was the ice formed in its present 
situation during the winter, and still firmly attached to the land on ‘every 
side. It was certain, from its continuous appearance for some miles that we 
ran along its edge, that it had suffered no disruption this season, which cir- 
cumstance involved the necessity of our awaiting that operation which 
nature seemed scarcely yet to have commenced in this neighbourhood, be- 
fore we could ‘hope ‘to sail round ‘the north-eastern point of the American 
‘Continent. 

At thirty minutes past nine A.M. we observed several tents on the low 
shore immediately abreast of us, and presently afterwards five canoes made 
their appearance at the edge of the land-ice intervening between us and the 
beach. As soon therefore as we had satisfactorily made out the position and 
state of the ice, 1 ieft the Fury in a boat, accompanied ‘by some of the 
officers, and bein ‘oined by ‘Captain Lyon went to meet the Esquimaux, 
being ext):iely desirons of learning from ‘them ali the particulars of our 
situation. ‘We soon found by the cautious manner in which the canoes ap- 
proached u., thai our Winter Island friends had not yet reached this neigh- 
bourhood. In « few minvtes after we had joined them, however, a few 
presents served io divsipe all their apprehensions, if indeed people could 
be said to entertain any who thus fearlessly met us half way; and we imme- 
diately persuaded them to turn back with us to the shore. Being under sail 
in the boat, with a fresh breeze, we took ‘two of the canoes in tow and 
dragged them along at a great rate, much to the satisfaction of the Esqui- 
maux, who were very assiduous in piloting us to the best landing-place upon 
the ice, where we were met by several of their companions and conducted 
to the tents. Before we had reached the shore however we had obtained 
one very interesting piece of inforetion, namely, that it was Igloolik on 
which we were now about to land, and that we must therefore have made 
a very near approach to the strait which, as we hoped, was to conduct us 
once more into the Polar Se. 

We found here two @ivisions of tents, there being eleven where we 
landed, and five more about half a mile to the uorthward. They were 
situated on a low narrow bank, not more than twenty feet above the level of 
the sea, and running along the island purallel io the beach, from which it is 
distant only a few yards, Within this bank were numerous ponds of water 
and much swainpy ground, and beyond these, at the back the island gradu- 
ally rises to a somewhat greater height. By the time we reached the tents 


Rat ahaa cat ts ten 


oie 


ee a ee 


ee = 


ae 


\ <= Seabee eae 


i Recousteee’® 3, 


ri Sao 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 271 


we were surrounded by a crowd of men, women, and children, all carrying 
some trifling article which they offered in barter, a business they seemed to 
understand as well, and to need much more than their countrymen to the 
southward. It is pleasing as wellas remarkable to find these people, even 
at our first intercourse with them, always appearing to entertain a sort of 
intuitive idea of the friendly disposition of the Kabloonas towards them, and 
of their wish as well as their ability to enrich them. No sooner therefore is 
the first of these ideas confirmed by kind and friendly behaviour than they 
begin to try what they can get from their new visitors. We were of course 
not backward in promoting a good understanding by means of such presents 
as we had brought with us, but they seemed to have no idea of our giving 
them any thing gratis, always offering some trifle in exchange, and expressing 
hesitation and surprise when we declined ac’ >ting it. This was not to be 
wondered at among people who scarcely k:.w what a free gift is among 
themselves ; but they were not long in getting rid of all delicacy or hesita- 
tion on this score. 

The tents, which varied in size according to the number of occupants, 
consisted of several seal and walrus skins, the former dressed without the 
hair, and the latter with the thick outer coat taken off, and the rest shaved 
thin so as to allow of the transmission of light through it. These were put 
together in a clumsy and irregular patchwork, forming a sort of bag of a shape 
rather oval than round, and supported near the middle by a rude tent-pole 
composed of several deer’s horns or the bones of other animals lashed toge- 
ther. At the upper end of this is attached another short piece of bone at 
right angles, for the purpose of extending the skins a little at the top, which 
is generally from six to seven feet from the ground. The lower part of the 
tent-pole rests on a large stone to keep it from sinking into the ground, and 
being no way secured, is frequently knocked down by persons accidentally 
coming against it, and again re-placed upon the stone. The lower borders of 
the skins are held down by stones laid on them outside; and to keep the 
whole fabric in an erect position, a line of thong is extended from the top, 
on the side where the door is, to a larger stone placed at some distance. The 
door consists merely of two flaps, contrived so as to overlap one another, and 
to he secured by a stone laid upon them at the bottom. This entrance faces 
the south or south-east ; and as the wind was now blowing fresh from that 
quarter and thick snow beginning to fall, these habitations did not impress 
us at first sight with a very favourable idea of the comfort and accommodation 


1822. 


July. 
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272 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


afforded by them. The interior of the tents may be described in few words. 
On one side of the end next the door is the usual stone lamp resting on 
any other rough stones, with the ootkooseek or cooking-pot suspended over 
it; and round this are huddled together in great confusion the rest of .the 
women’s utensils, together with great lumps of raw sea-horse flesh and blub- 
ber, which at this season they enjoyed in most disgusting abundance. At 
the inner end of the tent, which is also the broadest, and occupying: about 
one-third of the whole apartment, their skins are laid as a bed, having under 
them some of the andromeda tetragona when the ground is hard, but in this 
case placed on the bare dry shingle. Comfortless as these simple habitations 
appeared to us in a snow-storm, they are in general not deficient in warmth 
as summer residences ; and being easily removed from place to place, they are 
certainly well suited to the wants and habits of this wandering people. 
When a larger habitation than usual is required they contrive, by putting 
two of these together, to form a sort of double tent, somewhat resembling a 
marquee, and supported by two poles. The difference between these tents 
and the one I had seen in Lyon Inlet the preceding autumn, struck me as 
remarkable, these having no wall of stones around them, as is usual in many 
that we have before met with, nor do I know their reason for adopting this 
different mode of construction. 

Even if it were not the natural and happy disposition of these people to be 
pleased, and to place implicit confidence wherever kind treatment is experi- 
enced, that confidence would soon have been ensured by our knowledge of their 
friends and relations to the southward, and the information which we were 
enabled to give respecting their late and intended movements. This, while it 
excited in them extreme surprise, served also at once to remove all distrust or 
apprehension, so that we soon found ourselves on the best terms imaginable. 
In return for all this interesting information, they gave us the names of the 
different portions of land in sight, many of which being recognised in their 
countrymen’s charts, we no longer entertained a doubt of our being near the 
eastern entrance of the strait to which all our hopes were directed. We 
now found also that a point of land in sight, a few miles to the southward of 
the tents, was near that marked Ping-it-4d-lik on Ewerat’s Chart, and that 
therefore the low shore along which we had been constantly sailing the 
preceding night, was certainly a part of the Continent. 

By the time we had distributed most of our presents, and told son:e long 
stories about Winter-Island, to all which they listened with eager delight and 


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OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE, 273 


interest, we found the weather becoming so inclement as to determine us to 

make the best of our way on board, and to take a more favourable opportunity 

of renewing our visit to the Esquimaux. The weather became more severe 

and the wind drew more directly upon the ice, as we rowed out, so that 
the signal guns fired occasionally by the ships to point out their situation 
to us, were less and less distinctly heard. After pulling out for an hour and a 
half, Captain Lyon, who had a boat’s crew composed of officers, and had un- 
fortunately broken one of his oars, was under the necessity of returning to 
the shore. My anxiety lest the ships should be ventured too near the shore, 
from a desire to pick up the boats, induced me to persevere an hour longer, 
when the wind having increased to a gale, which prevented our hearing any 
of the guns, I reluctantly bore up for our former landing-place. So rapidly, 
however, had the sea broken up the whole margin of the land-ice, that this 
could no longer be recognised, and it was with our utmost exertions that we 
at length succeeded in reaching any part of the fixed floe, in consequence of 
the quantity of loose and drifting masses now occupying its margin. In 
forcing through these, the boat was stove by a sharp corner of a piece of ice, 
and was full of water up to the thwarts when we reached the grounded ice. 
Aiter repairing this damage and securing the boat, we walked to the shore, 
where I was happy to see the Hecla’s boat safely hauled up. Captain Lyon 
and his party having quartered themselves at the southern tents, we took up 
our lodgings at the others, to which we were welcomed in the kindest and 
most hospitable manner. That we might incommode the Esquimaux as little 
as possible, we divided into parties of two in each tent, though they would 
willingly have accommodated twice that number. Immediately on our arrival, 
they offered us dry boots, and it was not long before we were entirely ‘ rigged 
out” in their dresses, which, thoroughly drenched as we were by the sea, 
proved no small comfort to us. With these, and a seal-skin or two as a 
blanket, we kept ourselves tolerably warm during a most inclement night; and 
the tents, which but a few hours before we had looked upon as the most com- 
fortless habitations imaginable, now afforded us a sufficient and most accept- 

able shelter, 

The evening was passed in dealing out our information from the southward, 
and never did any arrival excite more anxious inquiries than those we were 
now obliged to answer. So intimate was the knowledge we possessed re- 
specting many of their relationships, that by the help of a memorandum book in 
which these had been inserted, I believe we almost at times excited a degree 

@.N 


274 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


ae of superstitious alarm in their minds. This sort of gossip and incessant chat- 
we tering and laughing continued till near midnight, when the numerous visitors 
in our tents began to retire to their own and to leave us to our repose. 
Wed.17.. Awaking at four A.M. on the 17th, I found that the weather had mode- 
rated and cleared up and the ships soon after appearing in sight; we called 
our boat’s crew up, and sent one of the Esquimaux round to the other tents 
to inform Captain Lyon of our setting out. Several of the natives ac- 
companied us to our boat which they cheerfully helped us to launch, and 
then went round to another part of the beach for their own canoes. A thick 
fog had come on before this time, notwithstanding which however we ma- 
naged to find the ships, and got on board by seven o’clock. Five canoes ar- 
rived soon after, and the wind being now light and variable, we lay to for an 
hour to repay our kind friends for the hospitable reception they had given 
us. After supplying them abundantly with tin canisters, knives, and picces 
of iron-hoop, we hauled to the north-eastward to continue our examination of 
the state of the ice, in hopes of finding that the late gale had in this respect 
done us some service. 

Lieutenant Nias informed me on my return that the ships had, as I appre- 
hended, experienced considerable difficulty in beating off the shore and the 
ice, upon which the gale had directly blown with a good deal of sea. The 
Hecla had indeed been once driven upon the margin of the floe, where 
she remained in a very awkward situation for half an hour, and then fortu- 
nately effected her escape ; after which by carrying a press of canvass both 
ships succeeded in gaining an offing, though not without much fatigue from 
constant wet and exertion. 

The fog continued with a light and variable easterly wind during the rest 
of the day, so that we could see but a short distance. As far as we could dis- 
tinguish at intervals, however, the land-ice appeared to stretch quite across 
the mouth of the strait as before. The soundings were regular in the offing, 
varying from thirty-six to fifty-five fathoms according to our distance from the’ 

Thur. 18, island. On the 18th the weather was at times sufficiently clear to allow us a 
glimpse of the eastern land, a part of which appeared to be composed of 
islands lying off the higher and continuous shore of Keiyuk-tarruoke, and as 
it was possible that this shore might be gained by sailing round these and 
getting within them, I determined on making the attempt; and acquainting 
Captain Lyon with my intentions, appointed Igloolik as our rendezvous in 
case of separation. This latter contingency seemed now the more likely as 


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OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 275 


well in consequence of the continuance of the foggy .veather, as on account neg 
of the sea being entirely free from drift-ice in this neighbourhood. wee 

We continued to beat to the south-eastward during the night, the weather 
being less foggy, but the atmosphere still moist and uncomfortable. In the 
first watch we came to a) ae of tangle-weed floating on the surface, extend- 
ing many miles in length, and marking by its position the margin of a strong 
tide setting the ships towards the islands round which we were trying to 
beat. We frequently shoaled in a single cast from fifteen to eight and a 
half fathoms, and were several times obliged to keep before the wind to 
deepen the water. This tide appeared the more striking, as near Igloolik 
we could not perceive the ships to be influenced by any stream or current : 
here however it proved so strong that we could make little or no way against 
it till after midnight. 

The favourable tide continued till about six A.M. on the 19th, when we Frid. 19. 
had made considerable progress, but without much hope of succeeding in 
our project of getting within the islands. This, as we advanced, proved more 
and more impracticable, as we found that the land-ice still occupied all the 
intervals between the islands as well as between them and Keiyuk-tarruoke, 
and in many places still projected also a mile or two to seaward. In the 
course of the forenoon the weather cleared up, and at noon, having still con- 
tinued to sail to the eastward, we observed in lat. 69° 25' 05”, the longi- 
tude, by chronometers, being 79° 57 10". In this situation a great deal of 
land chiefly low, and much of it apparently insular, was in sight to the east- 
ward ; but the distance at which we were kept by the ice prevented our fairly 
examining it, In the evening, however, having run as far to the eastward as 
the longitude of 79° 22’ 16” by good observations, we found ourselves pretty 
well embayed, the land extending as far row: as a S.b.E. bearing. The ice 
was here also for the first time loose and detacli.:d, occasionally streaming off 
from the land, but not open enough to allow of our working among it. In 
hopes therefore of its being entirely drifted from the land by the northerly 
breeze that had lately sprung up, we lay to during the night, watching for 
an opportunity to get within it, being determined to leave nothing undone 
that might eventually facilitate our progress alongshore to the westward. 
The soundings were here small, varying rapidly as the ships were swept over 
the ground by the tide, but seldom amounting to twenty fathoms. The bot- 
tom was covered with broken shells, of which great numbers always came 
up with the lead. Having a deep cast of thirty-five fathoms, Dr. Marcet’s 

2N2 


Sat. 20. 


Sun, 21. 


276 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


bottle was sent down near the bottom, where the temperature of the water 
was found to be 312°, that of the surface at the time being 343° by the same 
thermometer. A great number of walruses were lying on pieces of ice, and 
a few king-ducks and silvery gulls flying near the ships. 

On the morning of the 20th great quantities of ice continued to stream off 
from the land, but as it was much too close to allow us to work in-shore 
through it, we were under the necessity of standing back a little to the 
westward, to avoid hampering the ships, and in hopes of the ice thus drift- 
ing past us to the southward. We first, however, hove to for half an hour 
to obtain upon a floe of ice the truc variation, which proved to be 79° 20' 52" 
westerly, and then pushed to the westward till we found the ships a little 
more at liberty. In the course of this day’s navigation we met with many 
large floes, some of which appeared to have been recently detached from the 
land. 

I cannot delay any longer to remark how valuable the geographical infor- 
mation received from the Esquimaux had now proved to us, especially at 
this particular crisis. On our arrival off Igloolik we had suddenly been 
arrested in our progress by an impenetrable barrier of ice, appearing to 
occupy the entrance of a large inlet or strait leading in the very direction 
in which it was our business to seek and to force a passage. On tracing the 
northern land as far as the ice would permit, we now had it in sight reaching 
over nearly the whole extent of the eastern horizon, and almost to a south 
bearing, rendering it at least as likely as not that it would be found to con- 
tinue as far as Fox’s Farthest, or even to join the land in that neighbour- 
hood. Itistrue that, in any case, nothing short of actual examination was to be 
deemed conclusive or admissible by us, and that therefore it was our business 
to wait tillsuch examination could be effected: but who that can place himself 
for a moment in our situation will fail to appreciate the value of that infor- 
mation, which left no doubt of the geographical position of the lands before 
us, as respected the existence of the strait, and thus saved us the inconceiv- 
able suspense and anxiety which entire ignorance on this subject would not 
fail to have occasioned ? 

Finding that a further examination of the eastern lands could not at present 
be carried on, without incurring the risk of hampering the ships at a time 
when, for aught that we knew, the ice might be breaking up at the entrance 
of the strait, we stood back to the westward, and, having fetched near the 
middle of Igloolik, were gratified in observing that a large “ patch” of the 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 277 


fixed ice * had broken off and drifted out of sight during our absence. At 
nine A.M. we saw eleven canoes coming off from the shore, our distance from 
the tents being about four miles, where our soundings were from eleven to 
twelve fathoms, having shoaled gradually in the last two or three miles from 
forty-two to that depth. As the new line of ice left us something to examine, 
we bore up along its edge for that purpose, as well as to avoid the disturb- 
ance of our friends, who were approaching us with loud shouts during the 
time of divine service. After this the wind backed more to the south- 
ward, and thick snow coming on so as to prevent our secing ahead, we hove 
to for the canoes which had in the mean time communicated with the Hecla, 
We now hoisted two of them on board, their owners Ka-kée and Nii-yak-hé 
being very well pleased with the expedient to avoid damaging them along- 
side. Above an hour was occupied in endeavouring to gain additional infor- 
mation respecting the land to the westward, and the time when we might 
expect the ice to break up in the strait, after which we dismissed them with 
various useful presents, the atmosphere becoming extremely thick with snow, 
and threatening a repetition of the same inclement weather as we had lately 
experienced. The snow ceasing, however, in the course of the evening we 
found ourselves close to a small island called by the Esquimaux Sce-0-wah, 
and laid down by Iligliuk in her chart with astonishing precision. This 
little island which, from its extreme lowness, and being situated just in the 
middle of the mouth of the strait, is somewhat dangerous, subsequently 
received the name of Tern Island, from the immense number of those birds 
found upon it. It is almost entirely surrounded with shoals, particularly on 
its southern and eastern sides, but attention to the leads is sufficient to pre- 
vent danger, and the grounded ice is in general a tolerably safe beacon. 
The wind having now veered to the northward and westward, with clear 
weather, I directed the ships to be made fast to the fixed ice between Tern 
Island and another to the northward of Igloolik, this being a favourable situ- 
ation for observing any alteration that might take place. I was desirous 
moreover of obtaining good observations for our position and angles for the 
survey, which the state of the weather had prevented our doing since our 
arrival off the strait. 

About this time we began to insert in the log the true courses only, and to 
conduct the ships by a kind of dial-plate purposely constructed, of which 


* The expression “ fixed ice” appearing better suited to our present obstacle than that of 
“ land ice,” I shall in future adopt it in speaking of this barrier. 


Se 


A LLL, Te SA 


aE: 7 


Mon. 22. 


278 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


the sight-vane was kept constantly directed towards the sun when that object 
was visible, and set according to its azimuth at the corresponding apparent 
time. This method was now resorted to, not so much on account of any in- 
creased sluggishness in the traversing of the compasses, though this indeed 
was at times considerable, as from the extreme practical inconvenience of ap- 
plying to compass-courses a large and ever-varying correction for the effect 
of local attraction on different directions of the ship’s head. We were not 
at this time aware that the needles were, in this neighbourhood, subject to 
be influenced by other local attractions than those produced by the iron in 
the ships. 

We lay here in iifty-two fathoms, on a bottom of soft greenish mud. Some 
water brought up from a depth of fifty fathoms was at the temperature of 
314°, that of the surface being 30}° by the same thermometer, and of the air 
32°. We had now the first opportunity of closely examining the thickness 
of the ice that opposed so complete a barrier to our progress to the westward, 
and were not a little pleased to find that it scarcely exceeded a foot in any 
part, and was generally much,thinner than this, besides being full of pools 
of water that were rapidly dissolving it into holes. We now also remarked 
that the tides were extremely small in this place, compared with those to 
which we had lately been accustomed; and it was evident that to this cir- 
cumstance might partly at least be attributed the late retention of the ice, 
which must have been immediately broken up by a stream of any considerable 
rapidity. The wind freshening up strong from the north-west, with a return 
of thick weather, we escaped, by making fast to the ice, a very inclement and 
disagreeable night. 

The weather cleared up sufficiently on the 22d to allow us to obtain ob- 
servations, though the ice was found to be so much in motion that we could 
only use the instruments by removing them several hundred yards from the 
sea. The margin of the floe had a waving motion with the swell, which I 
have before mentioned as peculiar to thin salt-water ice. We were here in 
lat. 69° 33' 27", and in longitude, by chronometers, 81°09’ 13"; the dip 
of the magnetic needle being 87° 37’ 09"; and the variation 82° 21' 51" wes- 
terly. The weather clearing still more in the afternoon we had the ‘irst 
distinct, though still very distant, view of the land to the westward, in 
which a number of breaks and openings appeared, leaving us in doubt of 
the exact situation of the strait, which lay somewhere between a West and 
N.W.b.W., bearing from our present station. The wind becoming light 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. — 279 


and variable in the evening we cast off from the ice, and soon after 
Mr. Ross was so fortunate as to obtain a whole flock of the Larus Sabini, 
thus confirming the accuracy of Iligliuk’s information respecting this rare 
and elegant bird. They were in company with a number of tern and boat- 
swains, but still keeping in a separate flock. We did not see many wal- 
ruses in the offing ; those animals appearing to prefer the shoaler water im- 
mediately off Igloolik, where they are found in such numbers as to afford an 
easy, abundant, and luxurious subsistence to the Esquimaux. In the offing 
we more frequently met with seals, and generally of a large size, lying 
upon the ice; but these creatures are so watchful, that it is difficult to ap- 
proach them within gun-shot before they tumble themselves into their holes. 


On the 23d we went on shore to pay another visit to the Esquimaux, who Tues. 23. 


came down on the ice in great numbers to receive us, repeatedly stroking 
down the front of their jackets with the palm of the hand as they advanced, a 
custom not before mentioned, as we had some doubt about it at Winter Island, 
and which they soon discontinued here. They also frequently called out 
lima, a word which, according to Hearne, signifies in the Esquimaux lan- 
guage, ‘‘ What cheer!” and which Captein Franklin heard frequently used 
on first accosting the natives at the mouth of the Copper-Mine River. It seems 
to be among these people a salutation equivalent to that understood by these 
travellers, or at least some equally civil and friendly one, for nothing could 
exceed the attention which they paid us on landing. Some individual al- 
ways attached himself to each of us immediately on our leaving the boat, 
pointing out the best road, and taking us by the hand or arm to help us 
over the streams of water or fissures in the ice, and attending us wherever 
we went during our stay on shore. 

The day proving extremely fine and pleasant, every thing assumed a 
different appearance from that at our former visit, and we passed some 
hours on shore very agreeably. About half a mile inland of the tents, 
and situated upon the rising ground beyond the swamps and ponds before 
mentioned, we found the ruins of several winter habitations, which upon 
land so low as Igloolik, formed very conspicuous objects at the distance of 
several miles to sea-ward, These were of the same circular and dome-like 
form as the snow-huts, but built with much more durable materials; the 
lower part or foundation being of stones, and the rest of the various bones 
of the whale and walrus, gradually inclining inwards and meeting at the 
top. The crevices, as well as the whole of the outside, were then covered 


a ere eee porous a 


280 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


with turf which, with the additional coating of snow in the winter, serves 
to exclude the cold air very effectually. The entrance is towards the south, 
and consists of a passage ten feet long, and not more than two in height 
and breadth, built of flat slabs of stone, having the same external covering 
as that of the huts. The beds are raised by stones two feet from the 
ground, and occupy about one-third of the apartment at the inner end, 
and the windows and a part of the roofs had been taken away for the con- 
venience of removing their furniture in the spring. It was a natural infe- 
rence from the nature of these habitations that these people, or at least a 


portion of them, were constant residents on this spot, which indeed seemed 


admirably calculated to afford in luxurious profusion ail that constitutes 
Esquimaux felicity. This however did not afterwards prove to be absolutely 
the case ; for though Igloolik, (as perhaps the name siay imply,) is certainly 
one of their principal and favourite rendezvous, yet we subsequently found 
the island entirely deserted by them at the same season. 

In every direction around the huts were lying innumerable bones of wal- 
ruses and seals, together with skulls of dogs, bears, and foxes, on many of 
which a part of the putrid flesh still remaining sent forth the most cffen- 
sive etiluvia. We were not a little surprised to find also a number of human 
skulls lying about among the rest, within a few yards of the huts; and were 
somewhat inclined to be out of humour on this account with our new 
friends, who not only treated the matter with the utmost indifference, but 
on observing that we were inclined to add some of them to our collections, 
went eagerly about to look for them, and tumbled, perhaps the craniums of 
some of their own relations, into our bag without delicacy or remorse. — In 
various other parts of the island we soon after met with similar relics no 
better disposed of; but we had yet to learn how little pains these people 
take to place their dead out of the reach of hungry bears or anatomical 
collectors. 

We found here a very abundant vegetation, which is much favoured by 
the numerous streamlets and ponds, as well as by the manure afforded by 
the permanent residence of the Esquimaux near this spot. In some places 
were many hundred yards of square space covered with moss of a beautiful 
soft velvet-like appearance, and of a bright green colour such as I never 
saw before ; and perhaps indeed moss cannot well be more luxuriant. As 
I shall have abundant opportunities of speaking more in detail of the natural 
productions of this island, with which we unfortunately became much better 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 281 


Og acquainted than we wished, I shall only add in this place, that the minera- Daly. 
h, logical character was essentially different from that last examined to the ww 
ht southward, consisting almost entirely of innumerable fragments of thin 
\g schistose limestone, on many of which are fossil impressions, and in others 
" the cellular structure usually exhibited by madreporite. For the reasons 
A, just stated I shall also defer speaking of the geographical position of Igloo- 
n- lik, and of the observations now made here on the tides; a cursory and 
es unconnected notice or two on this subject being of little or no importance, 
4 where more ample information can be obtained. 
d The account we gave of our visit to the shore naturally exciting the Wed. 24. 
2g curiosity and interest of those who had not yet landed, and the ice remain- 
ly ing unchanged on the 24th, a couple of boats were despatched from each 
ly ship with a large party of the officers and men, while the ships stood off and 
d on. On the return of the boats in the evening, I found from Lieutenant 
Reid that a new family of the natives had arrived to-day from the main- 
1. land, bringing with them a quantity of fine salmon and venison, of which 
yf some very acceptable samples were procured for both ships. Being de- 
" sirous of following up so agreeable a kind of barter, I went on shore 
n the next morning for that purpose, but could only procure a very small Thur. 25. 
e quantity of fish from the tent of the new-comer, a middle-aged, noisy, but 
Vy remarkably intelligent and energetic man, named T'oolémék. After some 
it conversation, we found from this man that in order to obtain a fresh supply 
5, of fish, three days would be required ; this prevented my putting in execu- 
Df tion a plan of going out to the place where the fish were caught, which we at 
n first understood to be near at hand. We therefore employed all our elo- 
0 quence in endeavouring to procure a supply of this kind by means of the 
e Equimaux themselves, in which we at length so far succeeded that Toole- 
| mak promised, for certain valuable considerations of wood and iron, to set 


out on this errand the following day. 
The weather being remarkably fine and pleasant, we amused ourselves for 


; an hour or two in paddling about in canoes in a small lake, and soon found 
s that the art is not so difficult to acquire as their unsteadiness at first inclines 
il one to suppose. A great deal undoubtedly depends on the habit of keeping 
r the body in a central and erect position, and care should also be taken to 
$ avoid touching the rim of the hole, because this, from its height, acts as a 
hI lever in oversetting the canoe. They are by no means, however, so “ crank” 
: as they appear, easily coming down to their “ bearings,” but then requiring 


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Frid. 26. 


282 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


considerable force to press them farther. The greatest difficulty we expe- 
rienced in the management of them was to prevent “ broaching to” when 
going before the wind, the rower sitting so: near the centre as to exert his 
power to great disadvantage in turning their heads in any direction. Pad- 
dling head to wind is by far the most easy and pleasant. Nothing is more 
likely to overset a canoe than what we call “catching a crab” with the 
paddle, which is therefore to -be carefully avoided ; but I believe that any 
seaman might, after a few months’ practice, render himself as expert as the 
Esquimaux in the management of these frail coracles, at least for every pur- 
pose to which they are commonly applied. 

Shortly after I returned on board Captain Lyon made the signal to “ com- 
municate with me,” for the purpose of offering his services to accompany our 
fisherman on his proposed journey, attended by one of the Hecla's men; to 
which, in the present unfavourable state of the ice, I gladly consented, as 
the most likely means of procuring information of interest during this our 
unavoidable detention. I therefore gave Captain Lyon an: order to. this 
effect, directing his attention to the acquirement of geographical and natural 
knowledge; and to prevent the possibility of occasioning detention to the 
Expedition, limiting the time of his absence to the morning of the 30th. 
Being equipped with a small tent, blankets, and four days’ provision, Captain 
Lyon left us at ten P.M., when I made sail to :e-examine the margin of the ice. 

We had. a great deal of rain and sleet on the 26th, which we regretted on 
Captain Lyon’s account, but considered favourable for the dissolution of the 
ice. Onreaching the margin of the floe a slight difference was perceptible 
as to its extent sea-ward, which was to be attributed to its breaking off by 
piece-meal, an operation that was continually though slowly going on, while 
its general position and continuity from side to side of the strait remained 
as before. The sea was still entirely free from ‘drift or moving ice as far as 
we could distinguish from the mast-head in clear weather ; and we now began 
to remark that, whenever a mass was separated from the fixed floe, it drifted 
away to the south-east and never returned. The consequence was that this 
portion of the sea was at all times unincumbered, and more constantly and 
completely navigable than any part of the polar regions in this latitude we 
had ever visited. Of the cause of this miermanerend fact we were as yet 
entirely ignorant. 

In the afternoon, the wind continuing to the nerihioqativend with moist 
and unpleasant weather, we stood towards Tern Island, and after sending a 


OO =m Ree mt Rm OS CoO Hs Ss 


o> 


= 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 283 


the distance of one mile from the shore, to which a party was then de- 
spatched to examine this little spot. They found it oceupied by innumerable 
tern, and the eggs and young of that bird were met with at every step. On 


the following day, a number of efficers and men landed from each ship to Sat. 27. 


procure some of these birds, which, after skinning and purging them in 
salt water, were considered a very acceptable addition to our sea-pies. 
Flying about in: vast numbers, they became an easy prey to our. sports- 
men by the boldness with which they came down in defence of their eggs 
and young. A little Scotch terrier belonging to Lieutenant Reid was the 
object of their particular attack, and they fearlessly pounced upon him two 
or three at a time, and pecked his back before he was aware of it. The nest 
in which the eggs were deposited, and each of which generally contained 
two, consisted merely of a small indentation in the ground without any 
down, feathers, or other materials. The colour of the eggs is a brownish- 
green, with dark brown irregular spots all over them, but in the same nest 
one is sometimes much more green than the other, so that it might he taken 
for the egg of a different bird. Three eggs were rarely met with in the 
same nest. Besides these we found a great many ducks’ eggs, supposed to 
be those of the eider from the down which formed the nest, and which was 
usually laid between two stones. These eggs had been still more numexous 
than at present; for the Esquimaux, knowing the season in which they would 
be in perfection, had already been before us on the island, and on one spot 
on the beach above a hundred of these egg-shells were lying, as a memorial 
of a recent feast. In some of the ducks’ nests we found springes or snares 
for catching the old bird, consisting of thin flexible strips of whale-bone, 
with a running eye at one end and the other fastened to a stone. Some of 
these were double, the nooses being laid near each other in the middle of 
the nest. The. usual number of eggs in one duck’s nest was two or three ; 
but four were found in a single instance. We had taken it into our heads 
that this island would be found the grand breeding-place of the Larus Sabini, 
but though these were in consequence eagerly looked after, only a single 
individual of that species was seen and killed by Mr. Elder; it was flying 
in company with innumerable tern. 

Tern Island is about three quarters of a mile in length from N.W. to S.E. ; 
it is extremely narrow, and in no part more than twenty or five and twenty 


feet above the level of the sea. Through the middle of it runs a lagoon 
202 


boat in to-sound about the heayy ice near it, made fast’ in six fathoms, at 1822. 


| 
it 
1 


. 
pi Siay Boe ese oe 
ET Mie: A a, cise ae 


EDS Mibss mo PANE 


a 


1822, 
July. 


284 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


communicating with the sea, and therefore admitting the tide, notwithstand- 


w= ing which we were forcibly struck with the fact, that an immense mass of 


consolidated drift-snow still remained undissolved in it. This circumstance 
may perhaps appear too trifling to have been noticed in so particular a manner; 
but to us who anxiously watched every operation connected with the annual 
process of dissolution, on which all our hopes depended, it could not fail to 
convey an impression of being a very unusual occurrence, and to imply 
either a very backward summer or an extraordinary accumulation of snow in 
the winter. To one or both of these I am still inclined very confidently to 
attribute it; for in the locality of this island, low and open as it is to the 
sun’s rays, and in the immediate neighbourhood of a more extensive open 
sea than any known in this latitude, there is certainly every thing that 
would, 2 priori, have been considered calculated to accelerate rather than to 
retard the process of dissolution. 

The mineralogical character of this islet is similar to that of Igloolik ; but 
among the pieces of limestone of which it is principally composed, lumps of 
granite, gneiss, hornblende and mica-slate were also numerous, and I picked 
up a piece of common iron pyrites. There is a good deal of vegetation also 
in some parts, and our plant-collectors derived considerable amusement from 
their walk. We observed a number of roots of scurvy-grass (cochlearia 
Jfenestrata) growing on the beach where nothing else would, but the leaves 
were as yet scarcely developed, and therefore of no service to us. Some 
Esquimaux circles of stones were observed in two or three places on the 
island, which shewed that they occasionally resort to it; but it is not much 
frequented by them. 

Having seen all that this little spot produced, we sailed over to the eastern 
islands, three of which are conspicuous as forming one side of the entrance 
of the strait, and are laid down with extraordinary precision in Ewerat’s 
chart already inserted in this narrative, (No. 3.) ‘These islands, which I 
named the Cartuorrr Istanps, out of respect to Lorn Catrnorre, had 
attracted our attention by two of them appearing at a distance to be of the 
primitive formation, which had for some time forsaken us. Finding that a 
great deal of ice had been detached and drifted away since our last attempt 
in this neighbourhood, we were now enabled to approach the middle island of 
the three as near as the depth of water would admit; and in the evening made 
the ships fast to the fixed ice in twelve fathoms, at the distance of a long mile 
from the shore, The depth was regular and the bottom good in every part. 


Df 


.OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 285 


On the 28th, after divine service, we landed on the middle. island, which 


was found to be composed of gr*iss rock, and in every respect a counter- Narr 
un, 28, 


part of Winter Island in its other mineral productions. To save Iligliuk’s 
credit, who had described these islands as inhabited, we found the south 
end covered with winter huts, of precisely the same kind and materials 
as those described. at Igloolik, but so overgrown wiih long rich. grass 
as to indicate their having been two or three years deserted. Number- 
less skulls and bones were lying about them as usual, and some stone 
lamps and glass beads had also been left among the ruins. Leading from 
the huts towards the highest part of the island, was a curious path made 
by the natives, two feet in width, and formed by removing the stones in 
places where they were naturally abundant, and where the ground was bare, 
by placing two regular and parallel rows at that distance apart. The only 
conjecture we could form respecting the use of this artificial road was that it 
might be intended for a deer-path, (those animals preferring a regular or 
beaten track to any other,) by which means the Esquimaux might perhaps 
kill them from their usual ambush of stones. From the top of this island, 
which is not more than a mile in length, we obtained a commanding view 
and good angles of all the surrounding lands. Immediately to the eastward 
appeared a piece of low land that seemed insular, with a great extent of 


coast of the same kind at the back of it, which we could trace till lost in the. 


distance. Only two islands of the four more immediately forming this group 
are of the high and rugged primitive formation, the outer one, which from the 
quantity of sea-weed floating near it, we distinguished by the name of Tangle 
Island, being low and of the same character as Igloolik, with much shoal 
water about it. Large flocks of long-tailed, king, and eider ducks were about 
these islands, but all too wild to be approached, and we procured no game 
by this visit to the shore. 


It blew fresh from the eastward during the night, with continued rain, all Mon. 29. 


which we considered favourable for dissolving and dislodging the ice, though 
very comfortless for Captain Lyon on his excursion. The weather at length 
clearing up in the afternoon, I determined on beating to the eastward, to see 
if more of the land in that direction could be made out than the unfavourable 
position of the ice would permit at our last visit. In the mean time, I 
directed Lieutenant Hoppner to stand over to Igloolik in the Hecla, to sce if 
Captain Lyon had returned, and if not, to leave an officer with a small party 
at the tents, with signals to announce his arrival. The Fury then made sail 


1822, 
July. 


Tee LF = nig 
Ds ate oa, Nap > 


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Tues. 30. 


286 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


and stood to the eastward, encountering tlie usual strength of tide off the 
south-west point of Tangle Island, and soon after a great‘quantity of heavy 
diift ice apparently not long detached from some land. In endeavouring to 
beat between.this and the island, which is very shoal on that: side, we 
gradually decreased. our soundings every tack, till we had only four fathoms 
and a half, at the distance of a full mile from the shore. To avoid the risk 
of grounding in this rapid tide-way, we were then obliged to bear away for 
a narrow “ neck” to leeward, through which the ship was at length forced, 
and we soon got into clear water beyond. 

Advancing to the eastward during the night we again came to quantities 
of loose ice on the morring of the 30th, through which we sailed for several 
hours. This ice was of the heavy “ hummocky” kind, but all in small de- 
tached masses, the natural effect of the strong current by which it was here 
hurried, to and fro. My object in endeavouring to examine as much as pos- 
sible of the land in this direction, was not confined simply to a general desire 
of increasing our geographical knowledge by all the means within our reach, 
but extended also to a possibility of our being obliged after all to pursue the 
circuitous route round Keiyuk-tarruoke, should unforeseen obstacles eventu- 
ally oppose our progress to the westward, through the more direct channel 
now before us. It was not without extreme mortification therefore that we 
once more found the unfavourable state of the ice, combining with the uni- 
form lowness of the land in this neighbourhood, to baffle all our endeavours 
in pursuit of this object. Having before eight A.M. been obliged to heave 
to on account of the closeness of the ice, we could distinguish what we 
eonsidered the extreme point of land stretching as far as a N.4E. bear- 
ing, and to the castward of this was an apparent opening occupying 
about four points of the compass. Next to the southward was a large 
smooth-topped portion of low land that appeared insular, but so choked on 
every side with ice that we could not get nearer to it than three or four 
leagues, being in lat. 69° 26’ 40”, longitude, by chronometers, 79° 19’ 44”, 
and having no soundings with thirty fathoms of line. 

The opening above mentioned appeared, from. the strength and direction 
of the tide, to be that which must be pursued in any attempt to cireumnavi- 
gate Keiyuk-tarruoke ; but the unpromising state of the ice in this direction, 
and the precarious nature of the navigation, on account of the strong tides 
and the shelving character of the lands, did not offer any encouragement to 
make that attempt while a chance remained of effecting the more direct pas- 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 287 


sage. To the latter therefore our hopes and expectations were now re-di- 
rected, if indeed it could be said that they had ever been placed elsewhere ; 
and I determined to avoid, if possible, the entanglement of the Fury among 
the ice which now surrounded her on every side, and to stand back to 
Igloolik to hear what information Captain Lyon’s journey might have pro- 
cured for us. Before we could get into tolerably clear water, however, we 
had to run several miles to the southward, and then hoping to sail without 
farther incumbrance shaped a direct course for Igloolik. 


The wind proved light and variable during the night, with continued foe Wed. 31, 


so that on the morning of the 3lst, when we were wholly ignorant in what 
direction the tides had been taking us, we suddenly found ourselves sur- 
rounded by a great body of heavy ice, which seemed to have been brought 
about us almost by the effect of magic, for the ship had long ceased to move 
through the water, though, by the rapid change of soundings, quickly altering 
her position over the ground. In a few minutes there was barely room for 
turning the ship round, and we therefore made her fast to a heavy floe, a 
mile or two in circumference, when the fog, partially clearing away for a 
short time, discovered to us Tangle Island four or five miles to the westward, 
and the open sea one mile to the southward,. or directly to windward of us. 
At half-past eight A.M. the ice slackening round the floe, we furled sails and 
began to warp towards the open water. While thus employed we continued 
to drift nearer and nearer to the island, and at the same time to drive be- 
tween this.and the next one to the eastward, decreasing the soundings 
regularly from twenty-five to thirteen fathoms in the course of the day. We 
continued our work till eight P.M. when, after eleven hours of incessant 
exertion and the most inclement. weather, and just as we had got within a 
hundred yards of the clear water, a body of loose ice came drifting down with 
the tide and enclosed us more effectually than at first. The wind was now 
increasing to a gale. from the south-east, and the ship beginning to drive 
faster between the islands; but having made every thing as snug as circum: 
stances would permit, and prepared to unship the rudder in case of her tak- 
ing the ground, we could do nothing but quietly await the result. The night, 
however, though a most inclement and anxious one, afforded our people all 
the rest they'so much required ; for by a providential concurrence of circum- 
stances, we had been brought into our present dilemma on the only side of 
Tangle: Island which is not shoal and dangerous, and the ice becoming 


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Thur. 1, 


July 25. 


288 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


somewhat choked in an hour or two, we had no less than ten fathoms during 
’ the night, and altered our position very little. 

Our situation, however, was still a very precarious one, as any movement 
of the ice to leeward must place us directly between the points of the islands, 
where the breadth did not exceed a mile, and from the nature of the land 
the passage was probably a shoal one. On the weather clearing up on the 
morning of the lst of August we found that such a movement was just about 
to take place, the passage being already nearly cleared, and the ice around 
the ship beginning to give us notice of some alteration. Soon after a favour- 
able slack took place, when, preferring the chance of sailing to that of driy- 
ing through the unknown channel, which there was no time to sound, we 
cast offand, being guided by the leads and the colour of the water, ran safely 
through in tive fathoms and a quarter, at the distance of one-third of a mile 
from Tangle Island, and immediately gained the open sea beyond. Just at 
this time we observed the Hecla standing towards us and re-joined her ata 
quarter before eleven, when Captain Lyon came on board to communicate 
the result of his late journey, of which he furnished me with the following 
account, accompanied by a sketch of the lands he had seen, as far as the 
extremely unfavourable state of the weather would permit. 


‘* Accompanied by George Dunn, I found Toolemak on landing, who 
welcomed us to his tent in which for two hours it was scarcely possible to 
move in consequence of the crowd who came to gaze at us. A new deer- 
skin was spread for me, and Dunn having found a corner for himself, we 
all lay down to sleep, not however until our host, his wife, their little 
son, and a dog, had turned in beside me under cover of a fine warm skin, all 
naked except the lady, who with the decorum natural to her sex had kept on 
a part of her clothes. It rained incessantly during the night and the morn- 
ing of the 26th was in consequence very unfavourable for our purposed ex- 
pedition. At ten A.M. we started and found the sledge on a beach near 
the southern ice. Four men were to accompany us on this vehicle, and the 
good-natured fellows volunteered to carry our luggage. A second sledge 
was under the charge of three boys who had eight dogs, while our team 
consisted of eleven. ' The weather was so thick that at times we could not 
see a quarter of a mile before us but yet went rapidly forward to the WNW., 
when, after about six hours, we came to high bold land and a great num- 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 289 


ber of islands of reddish granite, wild and barren in the extreme. We here 
found the ice in a very decayed state and in many places the holes and fis- 
sures were difficult if not dangerous to pass. At the expiration of eight 
hours our impediments in this respect had increased to such a degree as to 
stop our farther progress. Dunn, the old man and myself therefore walked 
over a small island, beyond which we saw a sheet of water which precluded 
any farther advance otherwise than by boats. At about three miles west of 
this were two bluffs separated by an apparent strait of half a mile in width, 
on the other side of which lay a flat field of ice over which was land in the 
distance. The old man gave the name of Khemig to the two bluffs. 

“In the hope that the morning would prove more favourable for our see- 
ing the land, the only advantage now to be derived from our visit since the 
fishing-place was not attainable, it was decided to pass the night on one of 
the rocky islands. The Esquimaux having brought no provision with them, 
I distributed our four days’ allowance of meat in equal proportions to the 
whole party, who afterwards lay down to sleep on the rocks, having merely 
a piece of skin to keep the rain from their faces. In this comfortless state 
they remained very quietly for eight hours. Our little hunting-tent just 
held Dunn and myself, although not in a very convenient manner, but it 
answered the purpose of keeping us dry except from a stream of water that 
ran under us all night. 

“The morning of the 27th was rather fine for a short time, and we saw 
above thirty islands, which I named Coxe’s Group, varying in size from one 
hundred yards to a mile or more in length. Two deer were observed on 
the northern land which was called Khead-laghioo by the Esquimaux, and 
Toolemak accompanied Dunn in chase of them. One was killed by the 
latter as he informed me, in consequence of the old man’s lying behind a 
stone and imitating the peculiar bellow of these animals, until it was led by 
its curiosity to come within a short gun-shot. On crossing to bring over our 
game we found the old Esquimaux had skinned and broken up the deer 
after his own manner, and my companions being without food I divided it 
into shares. The entrails and paunch I was about to leave on the plain, but 
was reminded by the anxious looks of the natives, that these offals are 
described by Crantz as delicacies, under the name of Nérdokd, or “* the eut- 
able,” an appellation which also distinguishes them at Igloclik. I accord- 
ingly assigned these choice morsels to a young man of our party who bore 


them off in triumph. 
2P 


27. 


Lee Ge PO Ra 


FE pe a SES Wil BGO OE Seas nes FEE Rey Re en Fae et 


Ae SHI a 


ims 


290 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


aly, ‘¢ Arriving on the ice askin was taken from the sledge as a seat, and we all 

rw squatted down to a repast which was quite new to me. In ten minutes the 
natives had picked the deer’s bones so clean that even the hungry dogs dis- 
dained to gnaw them a second time. Dunn and myself made our breakfast 
on a choice slice cut from the spine, and found it so good, the wind-pipe in 
particular, that at dinner-time we preferred the same food to our ‘share of the 
preserved meat which we had saved from the preceding night. Of the ne- 
rooka I also tasted a small portion on the principle that no man who wishes 
to conciliate or inquire into the manners of savages should refuse to fare as 
they do. I found this substance acid and rather pungent, resembling as near 
as 1 could judge a mixture of sorrel and radish leaves. I conceive that the 
acidity recommends it to these people. 

** As we sat I observed the musquitoes to be very numerous, but they were 
lying in a half torpid state on the ice and incapable of. molesting us. I 
obtained the meridian altitude which gave the lat. 69° 26’ 48” N.; the 
western extreme of Igloolik bearing E.S.E. about fourteen miles. Soon after 
noon we set forward on our return and, without seeing any object but the 
flat and decaying ice, passed from land to land with our former celerity, 
dashing through large pools of water much oftener than was altogether 
agreeable to men who had not been dry for above thirty hours, or warm for 
a still longer period. Our eleven dogs were large fine-looking animals, and 
an old one of peculiar sagacity was placed at their head by having a longer 
trace, so as to lead them over the safest and driest places, for these animals 
have a great dread of water. The leader was instant in obeying the voice 
of the driver, who did not beat but repeatedly talked to and called it by 
name. It*was beautiful to observe the sledges racing to the same object, 
the dogs and men in full cry, and the vehicles splashing through the water 
with the velocity of rival stage coaches. 

‘* We were joyfully welcomed to the dwelling of Ooyarra whose guest I was 
now to become, and the place of honour, the deer-skin seat, was cleared for 
my reception. His two wives, Kdi-moo-khidk and Awd-run-ni, occupied one 
end, for it was a double tent ; while at the opposite extremity the parents of 
the senior wife were established. The old mother Now-kit-ydo assisted the 
young women in pulling off our wet clothes and boots, which latter being of 
native manufacture, she new soled and mended without any request on our 
side, considering us as a part of the family. Our knapsacks and clothes 
being wet, we gladly turned, in presence of a dozen or more of visitors, into 


tee 
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° ae < Aes a ee = — 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 291 


our blanket-bags, which had been better preserved. Dunn slept in the little 


tent to watch our goods, and I had a small portion of Ooyarra’s screened off wy w 


for me by a seal’s skin. Tired as I was, sleep was denied me; for I was 
obliged on the arrival of each new set of people to answer their questions 
as to how I possibly could have got into the bag, the manner in which I had 
wrapped it round me for warmth leading them to suppose I was sewed up 
in it. My host and his wives having retired to another tent and my visitors 
taking compassion on me, I went comfortably to sleep; but at midnight was 
awakened by a feeling of great warmth, and to my surprise found myself 
covered by a large deer-skin, under which lay my friend, his two wives, and 
their favourite puppy, all fast asleep and stark naked. Supposing this was 
all according to rule, I left them to repose in peace and resigned myself to 
sleep. 

“ On rising, Dunn and I washed with soap in a pond, which caused great 
speculations amongst the by-standers, on some of whom we afterwards per- 
formed miracles in the cleansing way. A large assemblage being collected to 
hear me talk of Neyuning-Kitua, or Winter Island, and to see us eat, the women 
volunteered to cook for us ; and as we preferred a fire in the open air to their 
lamps, the good-natured creatures. sat an hour in the rain to stew some veni- 
son which we had saved from our shares of the deer. The fires in summer 
when in the open air, are generally made of bones previously well rubbed 
with blubber, and the female who attends the cooking chews a large piece, 
from which, as she extracts the oil, she spurts it on the fame. At our meals 
I found every person much pleased with biscuit, which was supposed to be 
the dried flesh of the musk ox by those who had never seen that animal, 
and it was with great difficulty I explained that it was made from the seeds 
of a little tree and pounded to its present state. 

“ After noon, as I lay half-asleep, a man came and, taking me by the 
hand, desired Dunn to follow. He led to a tent which from the stillness 
within I conjectured was untenanted. Several men stood near the door ; 
and on entering I found eighteen women assembled and seated in regular 
order, with the seniors in front. In the centre near the tent-pole stood two 
men who, when I was seated on a large stone, walked slowly round and one 
began dancing in the usual manner to the favourite tune of ‘ Amna aya.’ 
The second person, as 1 soon found, was the dancer’s assistant, and when 
the principal had pretty well exhausted himself, he walked gravely up to 
him and, taking his head between his hands, performed a ceremony cal!cd 
2P2 


1822. 
July. 


28. 


hee. 


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2 Steen ee ee re es, z : ch Ss a, 
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——- z = * 2. Pa > s —" yy =r 


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—eEES =< 
Es rate ir = 


1822. 
July. 


292 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


Koo-nik, which is rubbing noses, to the great amazement and amidst the 


wr~ plaudits of the whole company. After this, as if much refreshed, he re- 


sumed his performance, occasionally however taking a koonik to enliven 
himself and the spectators. The rubdee, if I may be excused the expression, 
was at length brought forward and put in the place of the first dancer, who 
rushed out of the tent to cool himself. In this manner five or six couples 
exhibited alternately, obtaining more or less applause according to the oddity 
of their grimaces. At length a witty fellow, in consequence of some whis- 
pering and tittering amongst the ladies, advanced and gave me the koonik, 
which challenge I was obliged to answer by standing up to dance, and my 
nose was in its turn most severely rubbed, to the great delight of all 
present. 

“ Having been as patient as could be wished for above an hour, and being 
quite overpowered by the heat of the crowded tent, I made a hasty retreat, 


’ after having distributed needles to all the females, and exacting kooniks from 


29, 


all the prettiest in return. A general outcry was now made for Dunn, a most 
quiet north countryman, to exhibit also; but he, having seen the liberties 
which had been taken with my nose, very prudently made his retreat, anti- 
cipating what would be his fate if he remained. 

** During a short interval of fine weather we hung out our clothes to dry, 
and the contents of our knapsacks, instruments, knives, and beads, were 
strewed on the ground while we went inland to shoot a few ducks. We cau- 
tioned no one against thieving, and were so much at their mercy that every 
thing might have been taken without a possibility of detection, yet nota 
single article was found to have been removed from its place at our return. 
At night I was attended by the same bedfellows as before ; the young puppy 
however, being now better acquainted, took up his quarters in my blanket- 
bag, as from thence he could the more easily reach a quantity of walrus- 
flesh which lay near my head, and I was awakened more than once by find- 
ing him gnawing a lump by my side. 

‘On the morning of the 29th I was really glad to find that the ships were 
not yet in sight, as I should be enabled to pass another day amongst the 
hospitable natives. While making my rounds I met several others who were 
also visiting, and who cach invited me to call at his tent in its turn. Where- 
ever I entered the master rose and resigned his seat next his wife or wives, 
and stood before me or squatted on a stone near the door, I was then 
told to ‘speak!’ or in fact to give a history of all I knew of the distant 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 293 


tribe, which from constant repetition I could now manage pretty well. In 
one tent I found a man mending his paddle, which was ingeniously made of 
various little scraps of wood, ivory, and bone, lashed together. He put it 
into my hands to repair, taking it for granted that a kabloona would succeed 
much better than himself. An hour afterwards the poor fellow came and took 
me by the hand to his tent, where I found a large pot of walrus flesh evi- 
dently cooked for me. His wife licked a piece and offered it, but on his 
saying something to her took out another, and having pared off the outside 
gave me the clean part, which, had it been carrion, I would not have hurt 
these poor creatures by refusing. The men shewed me some curious puz- 
zles with knots on their fingers, and I did what I could in return. The 
little girls were very expert in a singular byt dirty amusement, which con- 
sisted in drawing a piece of sinew up their nostrils, and producing the end 
out of their mouths. The elder people were for the most part in chase of 
the tormentors which swarmed in their head and clothes; and I saw for the 
first time an ingenious contrivance for detaching them from the back, or 
such parts of the body as the hands could not reach. This was the rib of a 
seal, having a bunch of the whitest of a deer’s hair attached to one end of 
it, and on this rubbing the places which require it the little animals stick 
to it: from their colour. they are easily detected, and of course consigned 
to the mouths of the hunters. 

‘“* The weather clearing in the afternoon one ship was seen in the distance, 
which diffused a general joy amongst the people, who ran about screaming 
and dancing with delight. While lounging along the beach and waiting the 
arrival of the ship, I proposed a game at ‘ leap-frog,’ which was quite new 
to the natives, and in learning which some terrible falls were made. Even 
the women with the children at their backs would not be outdone by the 
men, and they formed a grotesque party of opposition jumpers, Tired with 
a long exhibition I retreated to the tent, but was allowed a very short re- 
pose, as I was soon informed that the people from the farthest tents were 
come to see my performance, and on going out I found five men stationed 
at proper distances with their heads down for me to go over them, which I 
did amidst loud cries of soyenna (thanks). 

As the ship drew near in the evening I. perceived her to be the Hecla, 
but not expecting a boat so late lay down to sleep. I soon found my mis- 
take, for a large party came drumming on the side of the tent, and crying 
out that a “ little ship” was coming, and in fact I found the boat nearly on 


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294 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY. 


shore. Ooyarra’s senior wife now anxiously begged to tattoo a little 
figure on my arm, which she had. no sooner done than the youngest insisted 
on making the same mark; and while all around were running about and 
screaming in the greatest confusion, these two poor creatures sat quietly 
down to embellish me. When the boat landed a general rush was made for 
the privilege of carrying our things down to it. Awarunni, who owned the 
little dog which slept with me, ran and threw him as a present into the boat ; 
when after a general koonik we pushed off, fully sensible of the kind hos- 
pitality we had received. Toolemak and Ooyarra came on board in my boat, 
in order to pass the night and receive presents, and we left the beach under 
three hearty cheers. 

‘* Having given so long an acceunt of my adventures, it is high time to turn 
to objects of more importance to the Expedition. I had found the ice over 
which we passed flat, unbroken, but much decayed into holes. The ge- 
neral thickness was still from one to three feet, and amongst the islands 
much greater, owing to the packing incidental to the rise and fall of the tides. 
Astronomical or other observations for fixing the position of the land could 
not be obtained in consequence of the state of the weather, which, with 
the kind of fatality that had attended all my excursions, had been more than 
usually severe and foggy. I had seen enough to awaken curiosity but 
nothing to satisfy it; therefore it would be requisite for other visits to be 
made to a spot to which the Esquimaux attached some importance.” 


Day 


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ABSTRACT of the METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL kept on board His Majesty’s Ship 
Fury, during the Month of July, 1822. 


—— 


Peninsula, 


~ 


Place. 


Winter 
Island. 


Eastern 
Coast 
of 
Melville 


Off the 
* Eastern 
Entrance 
of 
the Strait 
of the 
Fury and 
Hecla, 


Nosh Mean Barometer. Pree: 
Temp. 
:Maxi- | Mini- Wane Maxi- Mini. ; 
mum, | mum, | Mean, * mum, mum, Mean, | ) Direction. [rere 
4.57 14-30 1430.38 ||-a8.00 || ‘20‘00 | ‘20:00 | 29:07 | Nw [etrong 
36 | 31 30.00 || 20. | 29.05 | 29.170 || NWbW_ | fresh’ 
40 | 31 80.08 || 20.48} 29.32 | 29,377 NW __ | modt. 
4s | 31 30.25 || 29.50 | 29.80 | 29.390 NE __|light 
51 33 80.17 |} 20.78 | 29.58 | 20.674 | NW modt, 
52 | 33 30.60 || 209.82 | 20.75 | 20.787 Arad bat modt, 
54 | 33 80.70 || 29.74 | 29.70 | 29.715 NW_ | modt, 
47 | 33 30.95 || 20.80 | 29.69 | 29.752 | NNE | light 
46 | 35 30.77 || 29.82 | 29.64] 29.765 || South | light 
49 | 33 31.95 || 29.70 | 29.52] 29.607 || NNE_ | light 
av | 34 32.55 || 29.83 | 29.69 | 29.780 || North | light 
45 | 33 33.40 || 29.96 | 29.89 | 20.918 |] South | light 
47 | 36 33.00 | 29.92] 29.61 | 29.815 || South | modt. 
so | 34 33.83 || 20.63 | 29.60 | 29.605 NW _ | modt, 
42 | 32 34.67 || 99.64] 20.54 | 29.607 || South | modt. 
35 31 $1.75 || 20.50 | 20,06 | 29.312 South modt, 
86 | 20 31.08 |} 20.95 | 29.12 | 29.268 ||.\.M SPE}! tight 
a4 | 3 31.50 || 29.53 | 29.36 | 20.427 ESE | fresh 
40 | 33 33.64 || 29.47 | 29.20 | 29.817 || NNE | modt, 
44 | 33 83.58 || 20.12} 20.09 | 20.103 Nbw_ | modt. 
86 | 30 $1.40 |} 20.17 | 29.10 | 29.183 Wea | modt. 
44 | 30 30.96 || 29.40 | 20.19 | 20.310 || NWbw | light 
44 | 30 32.58 || 20.58 | 20.44 | 20.613 || Westerly |Highté& 
44 | 30 31.00 || 29.78 | 29.52 | 29.667 SE light 
44 | 82 93.83 || 20.87 | 20.80 | 29.848 || NbW | light 
35 | $2 31.83 || 20.86 | 29.80 | 20.815 NE light 
87 | 33 81.25 || 20.06] 29.70 | 20.863 |] Easterly | light 
873, | 33 31.62 || 29.62] 20.40 | 20.473 || North | modt. 
40 | 31 82.58 || 20.64] 20.47 | 29.508 ESE | modt. 
% | 31 $2.75 || 20.60 | 20.46 | 20.515 || Northerly | light 
35] 81 20.42 | 20.98 | 29.400 SE modt. 


29.06 


20.05 | 20.535 


Prevailing 


Weather 


cloudy and snow 
cloudy 
fine 
jhazy and snow 
cloudy, 
cloudy 
cloudy 
cloudy 
fine 
cloudy 
cloudy 
cloudy 
fine 
cloudy 
fine 
cloudy and snow 
hazy and snoy’ 
forsy 
cloudy 
cloudy 
cloudy 
cloudy 
cloudy and rain 
fine 
cloudy 
hazy and rain 
hazy and rain 
hazy and rain 
hazy and rain 
hazy and rain 


hazy and snotv 


7 
Byer ice 


eieeethoes 
wasenge ae 


— 


ae 


1822. 
August 
wow 
Thur. 1 


SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


CHAPTER XI. 


REMARKABLE INSTANCE OF LOCAL ATTRACTION ON THE MAGNETIC NEEDLES—OCCA- 
SIONAL SEPARATION OF A PORTION OF THE FIXED ICE—-A WHALE KILLED— 
OTHER CHARTS DRAWN BY THE ESQUIMAUX——-ACCOUNT OF A JOURNEY TO THE 
NARROWS OF THE STRAIT—DISCOVERY OF THE SEA TO THE WESTWARD—TOTAL 
DISRUPTION OF THE ICE AT THE EASTERN ENTRANCE OF THE STRAIT—A SECOND 
INSTANCE OF LOCAL ATTRACTION ON THE COMPASSES—SAIL THROUGH THE NAR- 
ROWS, AND AGAIN STOPPED BY FIXED ICE—ACCOUNT OF SEVERAL LAND JOURNEYS 
AND BOAT EXCURSIONS—OBSERVATIONS ON THE TIDES——-CONTINUED OBSTACLES 
FROM FIXED ICE. 


Tue information obtained by Captain Lyon on his late journey with the 
’ Esquimaux, served very strongly to confirm all that had before been under- 
‘ stood from those people, respecting the existence of the desired passage to 

the westward in this neighbourhood, though the impossibility of Captain 

Lyon’s proceeding farther in that direction, combined with our imperfect 

knowledge of the language, still left us in some doubt as to the exact posi- 

tion of the strait in question. It was certain however that it lay somewhere 
in the direction to which we had already been so long and so anxiously 
looking, and that its eastern entrance was still occupied by many miles of 
fixed and therefore impenetrable ice; but the very impediment that had 
arrested Captain Lyon’s progress, as well as our own daily observations on 
the state of the ice near its outer margin, appeared to offer a considerable 
hope that this obstacle must, in the common course of nature, very soon dis- 
appear, even by the gradual process of dissolution, if it were not more speedily 
removed by one grand and total disruption. While therefore Captain Lyon 
was acquainting me with his late proceedings, we shaped a course f + 'gloolik 
in order to continue our look-out upon the ice, and made the tents very accu: 
rately by the compass, after a run of five leagues, when the Hecla hauled 


we 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. ; 297 


in-shore to pick up one of her men that had been left there to procure game, 
and the Fury stocd towards the margin of the ice. 

Just before we reached the edge of the floe the weather continuing ex- 
tremely thick with hard rain, I desired Mr. Crozier to sct the extremes of 
the loom hanging over Igloolik, which was then on our lee quarter. He ac- 
cordingly did so, but presently afterwards remarked that the compasses, 
(both Walker's azimuth and Alexander’s steering,) indicated the ship’s 
head to be 8.W., which was about the middle point on which, but a few 
minutes before, he had set the loom of the land two or three points abaft 
the beam. Knowing, by the true direction in which we were sailing, 
that the ship’s course by the compass, if unaffected by any foreign local 
attraction, should have been about east, which in fact the needles had in- 
dicated previous to the change remarked by Mr. Crozier, I tried what tap- 
ping with the hand, the usual expedient in cases of mere sluggishness, 
would do, but without producing any effect. Being now obliged to tack 
for the ice, we carefully watched the compasses in standing off, and having 
sailed about a quarter of a mile observed them both gradually return to 
their correct position. Being thus satisfied that some extraordinary local at- 
traction was influencing the needles, we again tacked to repeat the experi- 
ment, and with a nearly similar result. The observations were then continued 
on one or two successive tacks, the ship being steadily steered upon a 
given point by some object a-head ; and an account of the whole is here 
subjoined in one connected view. The observations were made between 
six and nine P.M., the wind being moderate at east, (true,) the weather 
very rainy, the soundings fifty-two fathoms, and the nearest land distant 
from six to eight miles. The space sailed over during the time the changes 
were taking place did not exceed a quarter of a mile. 


Starboard tack, compasses first indicating the ship’s head East, then changed to SW. 
Larboard -,, ° : ; ; ; NWbN . ‘ SWiW. 
Starboard ,, ; ‘ ‘ : ’ East . ; SSE. 


Bore away to endeavour to cross our original track. 


Alexander's compass : ‘ NWbN , , WbS. 
Larboard tack Vite’ , . NW yA WSwW. 
Starboard ,, both compasses ‘ . - East : : SW4S. 

Alexander’s : : . NWN. ‘ SWbW iW: 
Larboard ,, HWwathers rene .  SWhYAw. 


2Q 


1822. 
August. 
wyr*y 


298 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


1822. Starboard tack, both compasses , prieds NEbE3SE . EXE. 
August, Alexander's a minute or two after returned to NEbDE3E, and Walker’s to EjN. 
Alexander's compass was placed on the binnacle, the other stood about five feet higher, in its 
usual place. 


In order to follow up the observations on this phenomenon on some other 
day, I sent a boat to fix a flag upon the ice, by way of marking the spot, but 
the margin was so broken up ,that it was impracticable to land upon it: a 
light buoy was therefore moored for the same purpose, though with little 
chance of retaining its station on account of the depth of the water. During 
the remainder of the night, when the wind and weather obliged us to keep 
more to the northward, the compasses were not thus influenced *. ° 

Frid. 2, The weather clearing up on the morning of the 2d we found that a strip of 
ice about half a mile in width had been lately separated from the fixed ice, 
but ths to our impatience appeared like a drop of water in the ocean. Con- 
siderable ‘‘streams” and “ patches” were also drifting along the margin 
during the day, and we were employed in beating through them in order to 
make fast to the floe, the weather being unfavourable for keeping under way. 
In the evening we secured the ships to the ice, being in twenty-three fa- 
thoms at the distance of two miles to the westward of Tern Island. For 
several hours in the course of this day, there was something in the atmo- 
sphere which distorted objects into very curious shapes. The principal fea- 
ture in this phenomenon was a constant waving tremulous motion near the 
horizon, causing the whole body of ice to appear at times as if turning round, 
and making one almost giddy to look steadfastly at it. The distant land was 
sometimes flattened down so as to appear like a single thick black line upon 

the horizon ; then again it would assume a shape of this kind, 


— ee 


sasaki 


* The spots near which this local attraction was found are designated on the chart by this 
-mark @. é ; 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 299 


The tremulous appearance is in a greater or less degree a very common phe- 1822. 
° ° A : . : August. 

nomenon in the Polar Seas. Such indeed is the frequent occurrence of ex” ww 
traordinary and variable terrestrial refraction, and the consequent uncertainty 
with respect to the dip of the horizon, that observations made by the horizon 
of the sea, even when wholly free from ice, cannot be depended on within 
two or three minutes. There is however practically little or nothing to re- 
gret on this account, from the almost constant opportunities that occur in 
these seas of resorting to the more accurate method of observation by artifi- 
cial horizons. 

The wind backing by the N.E. to N.N.W. during the night, we had on Sat. 3. 
the 3d a clear and pleasant day which, as the ice remained in the same state 
as before, induced us to pay another visit to Tern Island. We here found 
the scurvy-grass so much improved in luxuriance that a number of men from 
each ship were employed all day in picking it for the purpose of boiling 
with our pea-soup. Every body seemed to agree that the taste of this plant 
somewhat resembled turnip-tops, but it possesses it in a very small degree, 
and whatever may be its anti-scorbutic qualities has little or nothing to recom- 
mend it to the palate. The leaves were in general numerous, but not exceed- 
ing two-eighths of an inch in diameter, and in many tufts there was nothing 
but the flower and stalks; but these as well as the root were all committed to 
our coppers, being the only general supply of the kind obtained during this 
voyage. The tern had now almost entirely deserted the island, and we saw 
no other birds except a flock or two of phalaropes and a few silvery gulls. 

In the evening the wind having settled to the southward and eastward, 
which was directly upon the ice, I ordered the ships to be got under way, 
for the purpose of keeping them always at liberty for any change that might 
occur. The Fury being in an awkward lee bight, we had to send a kedge 
out for casting ; but being after all obliged to make sail on an unfavourable 
tack were again carried into the ice, which was now in so thin and “ rotten” 
astate, that the ship forced her way several hundred yards into it before she 
stopped, and then lay during the night thus immoveably though quite safely 
beset. The Hecla having cleared the floe, I made Captain Lyon’s signal to 
act as appeared best to him; and he accordingly kept under sail as at first 
intended. 

The present state of the ice, at which I have just hinted, served no less 
to excite our surprise than to keep alive our hopes and expectations. The 
spaces occupied respectively by ice and holes were about equal; and so 

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1822, 
August. 
wr 


Sun. 4. 


Mon. 5. 


300 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


extensive and dangerous were the latter, that the men could with extreme 
difficulty walk twenty or thirty yards from the ship to place the anchors, and 
that at no small risk of falling through. The shape of the ponds and holes 
being serpentine and various, and their blue colour forming a striking con- 
trast with the whiteness of the snow that lay on the ice, gave the floe when 
viewed from the mast-head an appearance not unlike that of the fancy-patterns 
one sometimes sees on cloths or paper-hangings. We were astonished there- 
fore to find with what tenacity a field of ice, whose parts appeared thus loosely 
joined, still continued to hang together, notwithstanding: the action of the 
swell that almost constantly set upon its margin. 

The weather, which had for several hours been rainy and thick, cleared up 
about noon on the 4th, in consequence of the wind shifting to the N.W., 
when we made sail from the floc in order to look for our buoy, and to con- 
tinue our observations on the magnetic attraction in that neighbourhood. 
After making several tacks as near the place as the bearings of the land and 
the soundings could direct us, but without discovering the buoy, we were 
obliged for the present to give up the attempt ; having, to our great satisfac- 
tion, observed a floe at least three miles in length and two in breadth just 
detached from the fixed ice, and rendering it necessary for us to work out of 
its way, lest it should ferce us towards the shore. We only, therefore, 
waited to put down some nets to ascertain the nature of the bottom, and then 
hauled round the floe. A quantity of shells, among viiich were a few of the 
new species of anomia discovered on the last voyage, with some shrimps and 
echini, were all that we could thus fish up. Having cleared the end of the 
floe, which drifted rapidly away and, as usual here, never made its appear- 
ance afterwards, we made the ships fast to the fixed ice at eight P.M., having 
by the late disruption made considerable progress in the direction of the 
strait. 

At nine A.M., on the 5th, the temperature of some sea-water brought up 
from near the bottom in fifty-seven fathoms, was 32}°, that of the air being 
34°, and of the surface 30§°. The specific gravity of the former was found 
by Mr. Fisher to be 1.0286, at the temperature of 40°*. What made the 
temperature and specilic gravity of the sca-water here a particular object of 
curiosity was the fact before conjectured, but now satisfactorily confirmed, 


* The specific gravity of the surface-water in this neighbourhood will be found, for a few 
days about this time, in the Meteorological Abstract. 


ati 
sil 


fo 


th 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 301 


that the stream or current sometimes sct out from under the ice, an. in a 


If 
A 


cast. 


south-easterly direction, though at a rate considerably varying for: day or #-~ 


two together. The station now occupied by the ships, and the present 
clearness of the weather, enabled us to obtain a tolerably distinct view of the 
lands to the westward ; but the constant fogs and rain experienced by Cap- 
tain Lyon on his late excursion rendered it impossible for him, at this dis 
tance, to recognise the place he had visited; and the observation he had 
obtained, giving the latitude much to the southward of the only apparent 
opening now before us, threw a shade of mystery over the unknown passage, 
which redoubled our impatience to examine it. 

We had for several days past occasionally seen black whales about the 
ships, and our boats were kept in constant readiness to strike one, for the 
sake of the oil, in which endeavour they at length succeeded this morning. 
The usual signal being exhibited, all the boats were sent to their assistance, 
and in less than an hour and a half had killed and secured the fish, which 
proved a moderate-sized one of above ‘“ nine feet bone,” exactly suiting our 
purpose. The operation of “ flinching” this animal, which was thirty-nine 
feet and a half in length, occupied most of the afternoon, each ship taking 
half the blubber and hauling it on the ice, to ‘ make off,” or put into casks. 
We also made fires on the ice, in order to boil a portion of the blubber into 
oil, for the convenience of stowage ; but this method being found a wasteful 
one until it is left several days to drain, we boiled only a hundred and 
twenty gallons each, and then put the rest into tanks and casks, being a 
supply sufficient for at least two years. 

The latitude of our present station was 69° 32° 10"; the longitude, by chro- 
nometers, 81° 23' 06"; the dip of the magnetic needle 88° 06' 26"; and the vari- 
ation 86°05' 43" westerly ; the latter phenomenon having considerably increased 
since our last observations. In the course of the night Mr. Ross was again 
fortunate in procuring one or two specimens of the Larus Sabini, out of a 
flock of forty that flew past the ship from the westward, Mr. Ross remarked 
that they had no other birds in company, and flew high as if migrating, 
but afterwards alighted in the open water at some distance from the edge of 
the ice. The operation of “flinching” a whale, which in Davis’s Strait 
and the Greenland Seas collects a large assemblage of birds about the ship, 
had not the same effect here, five or six of the Larus Argentatus being all 
that were thus attracted. Fulmar petrels, the usual visitants on such oc- 
Casions, are never seen here, which seemed to us the more remarkable 


1822, 
August. 
wre 


Thur. 8. 


302 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


as they had generally been our companions in most other parts of the polar 
regions that we had visited. We had to-day, for the first time this sum- 
mer, secn a number of white whales (de/phinus albicans) near the ice; but 
found them as usual so extremely wary as to clude every endeavour to 
strike thei, though the boats frequently made the attempt, this being the 
only large sca-animal inhabiting these regions which we had never yet 
taken. 

On the forenoon of the 6th a halo was observed round the sun, and on 
the eastern side of it a slightly-coloured parhelion, distant from the sun 
24°17. Some water, brought up on the 7th, from sixty fathoms or near the 
bottom, was at the temperature of 31°.6, that of the surface being 31°.3, 
and of the air 35°. As soon as we had completed the stowage of the blub- 
ber, and washed the ships and people’s clothes, we cast off, taking in tow 
the carcass of the whale (technically called the “ crang’”’) for our friends at 
Igloolik, and with the intention also of looking for the buoy that had been 
laid down in that neighbourhood. In the latter attempt we again failed, 
the buoy having probably been swept away by the drift-ice ; nor could we 
afterwards hit upon the exact spot where the attraction on the needles had 
been observed. ‘The wind dying away when the ships were off the north- 
east end of the island, the boats were despatched to tow the whale on 
shore, while Captain Lyon and myself went a-head to meet some of the 
canocs that were paddling towards us. We soon joined eleven of them, and 
on our informing the Esquimaux of the prize the boats were bringing them, 
they paddled off with great delight. When they arrived at the spot and 
had civilly asked permission to eat some of it, they dropped their canoes 
astern to the whale’s tail, from which they cut off enormous lumps of flesh 
and ravenously devoured it; after which they followed our boats in-shore, 
where the carcass was made fast to a mass of grounded ice for their future 
disposal. In the mean time Captain Lyon and myself had rowed up to the 
station formerly occupied by the tents, which however we now found wholly 
deserted by the natives, who had left only a sledge or two, and a quantity of 
blubber here and there under the stones before used for the tents. 

A fresh breeze having sprung up from the southward, we stood off and 
on for the night, and on the 8th again made the ice, in which no change 
was perceptible. We hoped however that some service would be done us 
by the swell, though its effects would only be rendered apparent when 
the wind veered to the westward. This taking place on the following 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 303 


day, we had the satisfaction of sceing another large “ patch” from one to 
two miles in width separated from the fixed ice, and soon drifted out of sight 


. to the south-east. As we made several tacks off the island next to the 


northward of Igloolik, called by the Esquimaux Neerlo-Nakto, two canoes 
came off to us, in one of which was Toolemak. He and his companions 
came on board the Fury, when I employed him for a couple of hours in 
drawing a chart of the strait. Toolemak, though a sensible and intelligent 
man, we soon found to be no draftsman, so that his performance in this 
way, if taken alone, was not a very intelligible delineation of the coast. 
By dint however of a great deal of talking on his part, and some exercise 
of patience on ours, we at length obtained a copious verbal illustration of 
his sketch, which confirmed all our former accounts respecting the existence 
of a passage to the westward in this immediate neighbourhood, and the 
large extent of the land called Keiyuk-tarruoke on the northern side of the 
strait. The word Khemig he applied either to the strait or to some place about 
its shores, as he had before done to Captain Lyon; but the weather was at 
this time unfortunately too thick to allow of his pointing owt the exact di- 
rection in which this interesting spot lay. This piece of information was, 
just at the moment, desirable only as a matter of extreme curiosity and 
almost painful interest, as it was certain that the passage was at present 
inaccessible to ships on account of the ice. Toolemak also agreed with our 
other Esquimaux informants in stating, that from the coast of Akkoolee no 
land is visible to the westward ; nor was any ever heard of in that direction 
by the Esquimaux. This fact they uniformly assert with a whine of sorrow, 
meaning thereby to intimate that their knowledge and resources are there 
both at an end. Toolemak represented the coast of Keiyuk-tarruoke as 
abounding with whales and narwhals, and repeatedly mentioned that ice- 
bergs were seen on its northern side, as before described by Okotook. The 
only actual addition to our former information was respecting some Esqui- 
maux inhabiting an island of considerable size, at a great distance to the 
eastward or north-east. These people they call by the name of Sedd-leér- 
mé-oo, a general term by which they distinguish all Esquimaux not belong- 
ing to their own tribe, and of whom, with their accustomed self-conceit, 
they invariably speak with undisguised contempt. It is remarkable that 
even the natives of Southampton Island, notwithstanding their proximity to 
the continental coast, come under this denomination ; there being no inter- 
course whatever, as-far as we could learn, between the two tribes. 


1822, 
August. 
oy 

Frid. 9. 


1822. 
August. 
wa 


Sat. 10. 


304 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


The ships being close to the edge of the floe in the evening, I directed 
them to be made fast; but the boat that went to make holes for the ice- 


anchors, returning with the information that the ice was in too ‘ rotten” a state - 


to hold them, we ran the ships into the floe under all sail, where they easily 
made a dock for themselves, and remained quietly for the night, which 
proved extremely fine and clear. A number of shrimps, echint, and other 
marine insects were brought up in a net from the bottom. 

Some water brought up on the 10th from a depth of forty fathoms was at 
the temperature of 32°, that of the surface being the same, and of the at- 
mosphere 40°. In the evening we made sail and ran aloug the margin of the 
ice, and soon after had the satisfaction of observing that another large floe 
was just on the point of being detached. On arriving at its northern end, 
we found that it still wanted a little to complete the separation, and with a 
view of applying the requisite force, or at least all that we had at our dis- 
posal, the ships were made fast to it by several hawsers, and all their sails 
set aback, the wind blowing fresh from the westward. This expedient soon 
produced the desired effect; the floe beginning to disjoin in less than ten 
minutes, and the whole of it then drifting away at the rate of a mile and a 
half an hour, so that at midnight we were enabled to cast off and make sail 
to windward of it. 

This last disruption, while it gave us another short step to the westward, 
allowed us also to approach Neerlo-Nakto as near as the soundings, which are 
here quite shoal, would permit ; and at noon on'the 11th we made the ships 
fast to the ice in eight fathoms, on a bottom of small lime-stones, and went 
on shore to examine the productions of the island, and obtain a more exten- 
sive view of the neighbouring lands. We found it to resemble Igloolik in 
its general character, but discovering an approach to the primitive formation 
not perceptible at the latter island, numerous large masses of granite, gneiss, 
and quartz appearing on the surface intermixed with the fragments of lime 
of which it is principally composed. The island is extremely low, and its 
surface is covered with numberless small and one very large pond of fresh 
water, the resort of black and red-throated divers and of the long-tailed 
ducks. A large flock of brent-geese were seen, and two or three procured 
from some of the Esquimaux whom we found on the island, and who had 
caught them with the snares of whalebone before described. Large flocks 
of eider and king-ducks were also flying about ; but the natives being in the 
habit of visiting the island for the sake of the birds and their eggs, had 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 305 


made them so wild that we procured but few. Captain Lyon’s party were 
fortunate in killing two deer, giving each ship one hundred and fifty pounds 
of fine venison exclusive of the heads and hearts, which as a matter of good 
policy were considered the lawful perquisites of the sportsmen. Including 
these and the entrails, the weight of each deer was estimated at two hundred 
and twenty pounds, which may be considered a favourable specimen of the 
rein-deer here at their best season. One of these animals took the water in 
a large pond, and was not obtained without much wading. 

The Esquimaux we met on the island at first landing were four young men, 
of which two were brothers of our little friend ** John Bull,” and had just 
arrived from Amitioke. From them we Icarned that Ewerat and his party 
had reached the place of their destination, and would probably come on to 
Igloolik in the course of the summer. One of the young men who insisted 
on attending me about the island the whole afternoon, made himself useful 
in giving the Esquimaux names of the different lands in sight. On being 
desired to inform us where Khemig lay, he pointed in the exact direction in 
which we had from the ships always supposed the strait to be; that is, about 
N.W.b.W. from Neerlo-nakto, upon which bearing was a high rocky hill of 
a remarkable form, and the most conspicuous object in sight in coming off 
the strait from the eastward. It is essential here to remark, that about this 
period two or three charts had been drawn on board the Hecla by different 
natives, of whom Toolemak was one, and they all pointed, in the direction 
I have just mentioned to Khemig, which was now understood to be an island 
lying in the strait, as in fact it afterwards proved. This information so 
repeatedly and explicitly obtained, while it satistied me more and more of 
our being in the right track, could not fail also to add to my perplexity re- 
specting the place visited by Captain Lyon,—a place evidently bearing a 
similar name and frequented by the Esquimaux on their way to Akkoolee, but 
lying by observation at least fifteen miles to the southward of the strait now 
before us, The clearing up of all obscurity on this point was desirable at 
the present moment, more as an object of curiosity or geographical research, 
than as affecting the movements of the Expedition ; for these too evidently 
depended on necessity not choice ; it being impossible, supposing even the 
existence of half a dozen different channels, to navigate any but that in 
which nature should open her barriers, That this operation was going on 
more rapidly here than in the passage to the southward of Igloolik, and 


that from their comparative size and openness, as well as from the current 
* Kn 


1822, 


August. 


nw 


1822, 
August. 


rw 


306 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


observed to set from the westward at our present station, the probability 
was mvch in favour of this channel being the first cleared, was too plain to 
admit ad t;and I therefore entertained none as to the point towards which 
all our et: ‘ should be directed. If after all there should be two channels 
in this neigi. oxznood, both leading into the Polar Sea, one perhaps to the 
north and the other to the south of an island, (which in the present state of 
our knowledge seemed the only reasonable conclusion,) the propriety of 
pushing through that which was first opened still remained the same ; for 
the quitting of the continental shore for a few miles could not, in such a 
navigation as this, be put in competition with the value of a day or even an 
hour of our remaining navigable scason. 

Convinced, however, as I was of the expediency of pursuing this line of 
conduct, which in truth seemed the only practicable one, yet every hour’s 
delay added an indescribable weight to my anxiety. For the same train of 
reasoning, by which we flatter ourselves into a belief of having done our best 
to avoid an evil, does not always furnish a proportionate degree of patience to 
enable us quictly to endure it ; and, stopped as we had now been, at the very 
threshold of the North-West Passage, for nearly four weeks, without advauc- 
ing twice as many miles to the westward, suspense at such a crisis was scarce- 
ly the less painful because we knew it to be inevitable. The decayed state 
of the ice, which even a fortnight before, had rendered travelling extremely 
dangerous, could alone, therefore, under these vexatious circumstances, have 
prevented my despatching another party, for the express purpose of deciding 
the question respecting the Strait: for, highly as we had a right to value 
the repeated and concurrent testimony of so many intelligent Esquimaux, it 
was impossible to feel satisfied on such a subject, while our own ocular evi- 
dence was still wanting. Observing, however, to-day, from an eminence 
on which we took the angles for the survey, that the ice within the line of the 
island appeared much less decayed than that in the stream of the Strait, | 
determined ou attempting, by this means, a journey to the westward, endea- 
vouring first to reach some Islands in that direction ; and then, by passing 
from one to the other, at length to gain the main-land, upon which it might 
not perhaps be difficult to travel to the Strait itself, and thus to end every 
doubt, as well as every conjecture, respecting it. 

While we were on shore, which was from a quarter past one till twenty 
minutes past six, P.M., the tide ebbed three feet and a half, and appeared to 
be still falling. The beach is extremely flat and shelving, so that the boats 


e of 
Ur’s 
n of 
best 
‘e to 
very 
alic- 
ree- 
tate 
ely 
lave 
ling 
laluie 
, it 
evi- 
nce 
the 
t, I 
lea- 
sing 
ight 
ery 


nty 
id to 
oats 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 307 


touched the ground at the distance of half a mile from the shore, the bottom rede’ 
being composed of stones of all sizes. wow 
A breeze had sprung up from the south-east while we were on shore; but 
the weather being fine we kept the ships fast, it being my intention to pre- 
pare immediately for my proposed journey over the ice, for which our 
present station was particularly convenient. At four A.M. on the 12th, Mon. 12. 
however, it freshened so much as to cause the ships to strike very heavily on 
the ice, which was here of the “hummocky ” kind. The swell having soon 
after broken up the edge, a press of head-sail enabled us to force the ships 
a short distance within the margin, and a few other loose masses drifting 
down from the eastward, we were at length secure from any disturbance. 
The rudders were however unshipped, in case of accidents, and in the after- 
noon the wind moderated, though the weather continued extremely incle- 
ment, with snow, which was afterwards succeeded by rain. On the 13th, Tues, 13. 
the weather remained too thick and unsettled for leaving the ships, though 
the wind was quite moderate, and in the evening shifted to the westward. 
The loose ice was drifting away from the floe, against the wind, during the 
whole of the day, affording another certain proof of a set to the south-east, 
independently of tide. Several black whales came up close to the ships, 
and three Sabine gulls, some ducks, dovekies, and silvery gulls, were also 
seen. 
Early on the morning of the 14th, the breeze having freshened from the Wed, 14. 
north-west, another floe broke away from the fixed ice, allowing us to gain 
about half a mile more to the westward ; such was ve vexatious slowness 
with which we were permitted to advance towards the object of our most 
anxious wishes! As, however, this disruption brought us so much nearer 
the islands towards which I was about to travel, we cast off and beat up into 
the bight left by the floc. 
My party consisted of Mr. Richards, and two men from each ship, and we 
were furnished with ten days’ provision. Mr. Crozier, with three additional 
men, was appointed to assist in carrying our baggage to the first islands, 
and then to return on board. Having given Captain Lyon the necessary in- 
structions for proceeding during my absence, and appointed the narrow part 
of the Strait as a rendezvous in case of any sudden disruption of the ice 
allowing him to follow us, I left the ships at half-past one P.M., but had 
scarcely proceeded two hundred yards, when we found that a plank would 
form an indispensable part of our equipment, for the purpose of crossing the 
2n2 


a iol emir ae 


re 
ve 
he | 
Pa ty 


308 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


1822. numerous pools and holes in the ice. Two planks of fir nailed together 


se being speedily furnished from the ships, at two P.M. we finally took our i 
departure. 

Having soon gained the more solid floe before observed from the island, te 
we found its edge distinctly defined by a strait line of ‘ hummocky ” ice, al 
where it was joined to the thinner floe occupying the stream of the Strait ; be 
giving us the impression of its having been much longer formed than the by 
other in consequence of being out of the tide-way, and affording, by its Pa 
comparative solidity, very superior travelling. Being thus favoured, we th 
made quick progress to the westward for seven or eight miles, when the fe 
holes and cracks began to increase in frequency and depth, and we were Jo 
three hours in accomplishing the last mile and a half; the warmth reflected ob 
from the land, and the action of the tides in raising and depressing the ice, fa 
having here cracked and partially detached it in many places. We landed at mn 
a quarter past nine P.M., after seven hours’ walking, the direct distance from th 
the ships not exceeding ten or eleven miles, and found it low water by the mrs 
shore about ten o'clock. 

The difficulty experienced in landing made me apprehensive lest Mr. Crozier di 
and his party should not be able to get from the island without the as- tne 
sistance of our bridge. I despatched him, however, at four A.M. on the We 


Thur.15. 15th, and had the satisfaction to find that being now unencumbered with 
loads, he and his men were able, by a circuitous route observed from the 
hills, to leap from one mass of ice to another and thus to gain the more solid 
floe. Having seen him thus far safely on his way, we crossed the island one- 
third of a mile to the westward, carrying the plank with slings from our 
shoulders, to prevent injuring it on the rocks. After passing over broken 
and detached ice for a mile and a quarter to the next island, which is a 
small one, we found it separated by a narrow channel of a hundred yards in 
width from a third and larger. After dining and resting an hour or two 
about noon, near the middle of this island, we arrived on its western shore 
at six in the evening, when the weather becoming misty we pitched the 
tent for the night. Between this and the next island was a large space en- 
tirely clear of ice, and here we observed a black whale sporting about: we 
also met with two large deer and a fawn, but could not get near them. A 
long-tailed duck with three very young ones, and a pair or two of red- 
throated divers, were swimming about in the ponds. The former served us 
as a supper, the andromeda tetragona and ground-willow furnishing fuel for 


or 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 309 


cooking them. A pair of ravens, one or two silvery gulls, and a few snow- 
buntings, were all we saw besides. 

Heavy snow continued to fall during the night, rendering the atmosphere 
too thick to allow us to see our way till half-past nine A.M. on the 16th, 
when we struck the tent, and set out upon the ice, which we now found 
better for travelling than before, consisting of a level floe, intersected only 
by numberless pools not more than knee-deep, and with their bottom gene- 
rally strong enough to allow us to wade through them. Proceeding along 
the southern side of the land on which the remarkable hill before-mentioned 
is situated, and which I now named Mount Sasine, out of respect to Mr. 
Joseru Sabine, we halted at noon a mile and a half due south of it, and 
observed the lat. 69° 37’ 40”; and then continuing our journey landed at 
two P.M. to dine and rest. Serjeant Wise here shot a hare of a remark- 
ably dark colour on the upper part of the body, and particularly about 
the ears, but quite white underneath. Two or three ring-plovers were also 
seen. 

We moved again at half-past four; and at a mile and a half in a W.b.N.3N. 
direction, arrived at the extreme point of the island, and crossed the 
ice about a hundred yards to the next. Traversing this also, we then 
walked a mile and a half with the assistance of the plank, which it fre- 
quently required extreme caution not to break, over loose and even drifting 
ice to the next, on which we halted for the night at cight P.M.,, after a 
day’s journey of no great length, but attended with much wet and fatigue. 
The snow, which fell at intervals during the day, was succeeded in the 
evening by rain and fog, which continued very thick till six A.M. on the 
17th, when we resumed our journey across the island; and after deeper 
wading than usual in reaching the ice, at length set forward upon it, and 
at nine o’clock landed on a small island in a 8.W.b.W. direction. The sun 
now making its appearance, and the whole of our clothes and baggage being 
wet, I determined to remain here afew hours to dry them, which we were 
soon enabled to do, the wind shifting to the N.W., and quickly dissipating 
the fog and clouds. The warmth of the sun seemed not more agrecable and 
invigorating to us than to the other inhabitants of the island. These con- 
sisted only of numerous large mosquitoes, which, though in a torpid state 
before, now commenced their attacks, and continued to annoy us during the 
rest of our stay. Their sting however certainly produced in this climate 
much less inflammation than is usual in a warmer one, though I do not know 


1822. 
August. 
P\ 


Frid. 16. 


Sat. 17. 


310 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


how much of this difference is to be attributed to the man, and how much to 
the mosquito. 

The islands over which we had late'y passed, and which, at the request of 
Mr. Richards, I named the Bouverte IsLanps, rise from two to six hundred 
feet above the sea, with deep water quite close to their shores. They con- 
sist principally of dark-coloured gneiss-rock, the strata of which, in all the 
instances where I had an opportunity of examining them, dipped to the 
northward or north-west. There are also on some of the islands consider- 
able tracts where the rocks exhibited a schistose structure, the loose slaty 
fragments, which I took to be mica-slate, varying from near a perpendicular 
to an almost horizontal direction, and indifferently as to the direction of 
their dip. On one island only, being that on which the three deer were 
seen, the outer ends of these slaty fragments were covered with a thin super- 
ficial coating of a verdigris-green substance, extending a foot or two along 
the surface in different places, and giving the rock the singular appearance 
of having been painted that colour. None of the fragments were thus 
tinged in any part but their outer ends, nor could I find any other substance 
in the same neighbourhood exhibiting a similar appearance. 

After obtaining the meridian altitude, which gave the lat. 69° 37’ 55’, we 
left the island, and directed our course across the ice to the N.W., towards 
a low part of the land. On reaching this spot, which proved to be an isthmus 
scarcely fifty yards in breadth, and ascending the first eminence, we had 
every reason to be satisfied with our route, being now enabled to perceive 
that we had in all probability reached the main-land ; the ice lately crossed 
being that of a spacious bay to the south, which I named after my fellow- 
traveller Mr. Ricnarps, and the sea to the northward, between us and the 
high land of Keiyuk-tarruoke, bearing evident marks of our approach to the 
supposed strait. The ice was here entirely broken up and in motion to the 
eastward, and in many places about the northern shore there was abundance 
of open water. Being satisfied that we could now perform the remainder of 
our journey by land, I determined to leave the plank and a portion of our 
provisions at this spot, and to make a forced march for the Strait as lightly 
equipped as possible. We here for the first time found the rocks to be 
composed of red granite, a circumstance we hailed with satisfaction at the 
time, as Captain Lyon had met with a similar formation at the extent of his 


journey to the westward. It was high water by the shore at about seven in 
the evening. 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE, 311 


At two o'clock on the morning of the 18th, the weather being extremely 
fine and clear, we rose with the sun ; and after depositing our spare stores 
within a heap of stones, left the isthmus, and directed our course over the 
hills to the westward, which consist partly of greyish gneiss and partly of red 
granite, some of them rising at least a thousand or twelve hundred feet 
above the level of the sea. These being in some places extremely steep, 
with numberless loose fragments lying about, which only required the foot 
to be set upon them to give them motion down the precipice, we were for 
some time obliged to proceed with much caution. At half-past five, how- 
ever, we had arrived at a peninsula which promised to prove of high 
interest, for it appeared to lead to the very spot where, from the set of the 
tide and the trending of the coast, the strait was most likely to be found ; 
and it presented at the same time a geological character differing from any 
we had before met with. The appearance of the southern or inner part of 
this peninsula is singular, being that of three or more nearly horizontal and 
equidistant ranges or strata, resembling at a distance so many tiers or galle- 
ries of a high and commanding fortification, which seemed to defy approach. 
On reaching this place, where two long and deep ponds of fresh water serve 
to contract still more the narrow isthmus by which it is divided from the 
other land; we found the rocks composed of a brownish-red sandstone in 
numerous alternate strata of darker and lighter shades, though three or four 
only of these were conspicuous at a distance. 

We now turned nearly due north, the character of the rocks continuing 
much the same, except that some narrow veins of a compact white sandstone 
appeared here and there traversing the other. Some of this, as well as of the 
red kind, occurred now and then in a pulverized state ; the former on first 
taking it up, exactly resembled white sugar when moistened by water, but 
being subsequently dried proved remarkably minute and fine. After cross- 
ing a deep hollow, nearly intersecting the peninsula from east to west, we 
observed the rocks to consist of a beautiful variety of the reddis.a sand- 
stone, variegated with serpentine and nearly concentric delineations of a 
darker red, and having numerous oval ‘nots of various sizes, like those of 
wood, giving the smoothly rounded surface of the bare rock in many 
places more the appearance of handsomely polished beef-wood than of 
stone. After passing over a mile and a half of this, we arrived at about 
seven A.M. at the ultimate object of our journey, the extreme northern 
point of the peninsula overlooking the narrowest part of the desired strait 


1822. 
August. 
wanw 


Sun, 18, 


—— ST Ta SR 
Fe ay ae ig eee Te 
negra 


a 


4 
5 
i 


1822, 
August, 
I \ Ne 


312 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


which lay immediately below us in about an east and west direction, 
being two miles in width, apparently very deep, and with a tide or current of 
at least two knots setting the loose ice through to the eastward. Beyond us 
to the west, the shores again scparated to the distance of several leagues; 
and for more than three points of the compass in that direction no land 
could be seen to the utmost limits of a clear horizon, except one island six 
or seven miles distant. Over this we could not entertain a doubt of having 
discovered the Polar Sea; and loaded as it was with ice, we already felt as 
if we were on the point of forcing our way through it along the northern 
shores of America. 

After despatching one of our party to the foot of the point for some of 
the sea-water, which was found extremely salt to the taste, we hailed the 
interesting event of the morning by three hearty cheers and by a small extra 
allowance of grog to our people, to drink a safe and speedy passage through 
the channel just discovered, which I ventured to name by anticipation, tne 
Srrait or THe Fury anv Hecta. Having built a pile of stones upon the pro- 
montory which, from its situation with respect to the Continent of America, 
I called Care Norru-East, we walked back to our tent and baggage, these 
having, for the sake of greater expedition, been left two miles behind; and 
after resting a few hours set out at three P.M. on our return. To save our- 
selves the fatigue of re-ascending the craggy and precipitous mountain land 
passed over in the morning, we struck through some ravines and _ yalleys 
more to the southward, which however led us so far out of our way, with- 
out much improving the road, that we did not reach our depét till a quarter 
past seven in the evening, after a circuitous journey of fourteen or iifteen 
miles. This walk however subsequently proved of service in pointing out 
the route by which another object might be attained. 

The whole of the tract over which we passed this day was inconccivably 
barren and desolate, with scarcely a tuft of moss or grass, or even a snow 
bunting’s note to give occasional animation to the scene. I cannot help 
adding however, that where, in some moist and sheltered situation, a little 
patch of green did occur, the sorrel, (rwmex digynus,) was sure to have put 
forth its leaves. Nor is this the only instance in which we have remarked 
that this hardy and valuable antiscorbutic plant seems, as it were, to glory 
in springing up and flourishing in situations where scarcely any other can 
find soil or moisture for its sustenance. A number of small lakes occur in 
every part of this country, as well as on all the islands that we visited. 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 313 


Those on the main land were mostly remarkable, as having still a patch of 
level solid ice, about ten inches thick, occupying the whole extent of them, ww 
except for a space of fifteen or twenty feet all round the shores, where the Na 
ice had been dissolved by the warmth of the land. To us the fact was new Naas at 
at this season, and is still somewhat unaccountable. Whether so strange ES 
a circumstance is to be attributed to locality or to an unfavourable season, 
the experience of a single year or two is not suflicient to determine. Three Hits 
long-tailed ducks were killed out of a flock swimming in a lake ; these birds a 
being in moult could not rise from the water, but their quickness in diving 
makes it extremely difficult to shoot them. <A hare of a very dark colour ry 
was seen near the tent, though one of these animals perfectly white had 
been noticed on the same spot only the day before. It was high water by | 
the shore in Richards’s Bay at a quarter before eight this evening. it Hae r 
At thirty minutes past five A.M. on the 19th, the ice was observed to be Mon. 19. aed | 
setting fast to the eastward in the Strait, as indeed it had always been 
whenever we had obtained a distinct view of it, which circumstance tended 
very strongly to confirm the impression we had before received of a per- 
manent easterly current. Having employed a couple of hours in re-packing He) 
our baggage for travelling, we set out on the ice at six o'clock and reached i . 
the small island at nine; where we were saluted as before by swarms of ahd 
troublesome mosquitoes. The tide having fallen a little by the marks on the 
rocks we judged it to have been high water at about half-past eight. Proceed. 
ing again at half an hour past noon, and being now aware that our easiest 
travelling was on the level ice, through the pools on which we had learned 
to pass with less delay than at first, we were enabled to reach Deer Island 
at a single journey, by taking care to avoid all the broken ice near the land. 
This latter precaution was indeed so necessary, that, when at length we 


wished to go on shore, it took us above an hour to effect the last two hundred fe i 
yards, and that with more wet, cold, and fatigue than we had experienced Bun Anis 
in walking the whole preceding journey. We landed however at five P.M., Ker eps: nite 


and obtaining from the hills a distant view ef the ships, observed that they 

were employed in warping among the ice. There was now a great deal of Hi 
open water in the Strait, and the easternmost of the Bouverie Islands were He 
entirely cleared of the ice on which we had travelled upon our outward He 
journey. We here found some more of the verdigris-green substance, though 
on the opposite side of the same island as before, occurring precisely under ety) gael 
similar circumstances. A little animal ran up the rocks near our tent, which ie i 

28 i 


Sette site 


a. Fron 


= inet esis clinncen 


August. 
we 


Tues, 20. 


314 


SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


at the time we took to be an ermine ; but which on subsequent recollection 
of its colour, furry coat, and brushy tail, I believe to have been a squirrel 
of some kind, though we have not on any other occasion met with this 
animal. 

It rained hard on the morning of the 20th till seven A.M., when we re- 
ascended the hill to determine our best route to the ships according to the 
position of the ice, and also with the intention of lighting a large smoky fire 
to give intimation of our return, which signal I had agreed on with Captain 
Lyon. In the latter attempt we failed, the andromeda being too wet even to 
produce smoke enough for our purpose. We therefore set out upon the ice 
at half-past nine with the intention of making a hard push to get on board 
without halting. With this view we kept well into the bay, in order to avoid 
the detached ice near the islands, but were once obliged to go on shore on 
account of a broad crack that had lately been made in the floe. We could 
at this time scarcely discover the ships from the ice; but having the island 
of Neerlo-natko as a guide, we continued to push on, hoping to reach them in 
two or three hours. At thirty minutes after three P.M. however, being sur- 
prised to find them still six or seven miles distant, we halted to dine, and to 
let one of our party, who was seized with a shiveriug in consequence of twice 
falling into tne water, shift his clothes ; after which we again set forward. 
At half-past five we came to a quantity of “‘ hummocky” ice that lay off the 
island, and finding here a broad lane of water obstructing our progress, the 
idea first occurred to us that the ships must be adrift, the whole of the ice 
outside of us having been lately broken up and detached from the floe on 
which we stood. By means of ferrying upon one piece as a boat to the 
other, we at length got across the lane of water and found the ice in sepa- 
rate masses, but more closely packed on the other side. The plank being 
now no longer serviceable, while it occasioned us much detention in carrying, 
we fixed it in an upright position on a large floe-piece, and in a few minutes 
after a gun from the Hecla, accompanied by the appointed signal that a boat 
was coming, assured us of our being discovered by the ships. At nine P.M. 
when some of our party were nearly exhausted with incessant jumping and 
wading, Lieutenant Hoppner met us in one of the boats, and we arrived on 
board at ten o'clock, after twelve hours’ laborious journey. 

On almost all the shores both of the main-land and islands that we visited, 
some traces of the Esquimaux were found; but they were less numerous 
than in any other places on which we had hitherto landed, This circum- 


& 


i 
ian 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 315 phd 


I learned from Captain Lyon that Mr. Crozier and his party had scarcely 
got on board the ships when the weather became extremely thick and 
continued so all night, so that his return was very opportune, and the 
more so, as on the following morning the whole body of western ice, in- 
cluding that to which the ships were attached, was observed to have broken 
up. Fortunately however the latter, by pressing against the island of Neerlo- 
Nakto, enabled the ships for some time to retain their station and assisted in 
keeping them off the shore ; but they were afterwards drifted about in the 
shoal water near the island, and continued in a very unpleasant and hazard- 
ous situation till the time of my return. Being immoveably beset by the 
other ice that had been detached, on the night of the 17th the Fury sus- 
tained one or two heavy “ nips” by the pressure, which lifted her abaft, but 
without any injury whatever. Great quantities of ice were observed to 
drift past from the westward, from which direction, whenever the wind was 
o light, there appeared to be a constant current. 

e If Mr. Crozier’s return was opportune, mine was certainly no less so, for Wed. 21. 
ot the very time of our crossing the lane of water as mentioned above, the 
c ice was in the act of opening out, and continued to do so for the rest of the 
€ night; so that on the morning of the 2lst, the ships were nearly in clear 
water, while the weather became so thick in an hour after our arrival, that 
| we could scarcely sce a quarter of a mile for two days afterwards. At 
e eight A.M. we got under way, with a view of endeavouring to find the 
- margin of the fixed floe, by which alone we could hope to hold our ground 
S against the ice which we knew to be drifting down from the westward, In 
’ this attempt we succeeded, and ran along jit for a short distance, when the 
s fog coming on more thick than ever, we made fast in thirty-two fathoms, 
being about four miles to the northward and westward of Neerlo-Natko. 

On the 22d we twice made a mile or two along the edge of the floe, when- Thur. 22. 
ever the weather permitted us to see a short distance a-head ; but the sound- 
ings being now too deep to give us warning of our approach to the Bouverie 
Islands, we made fast in the evening in fifty-seven fathoms, the more de- 

, cayed state of the ice appearing to indicate- our being near enough to the 
. land. The wind was very light from the eastward, and the state of the 
weather rendered the ship so moist and unwholesome below that it was 
282 


1 : stance rather seemed to intimate, as we afterwards found to be the case, that Pree hy ihe 
1 the shores of the Strait and its immediate neighbourhood are not a frequent “wT ee 
s resort of the natives during the summer months. +¢ 


EE el ee 


Frid. 23. 


Sun, 25. 


316 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


necessary to light a tire in the warming stove, by which an inconceivable 
degree of dryness, warmth, and healthy ventilation was produced in the 
course of two or three hours. Several white whales were playing about the 
ships, and a. number of sillocks {rom four to eight inches in length, observed 
near the small pieces of drift-ice. It appeared to us a remarkable coinci- 
dence that the last time we had met with sillocks, which was in the entrance 
to the Duke of York’s Bay, white whales seemed to be hemming them in 
upon the shores in shallow water. 

The ice coming in upon us soon closed the open space through which we 
had been sailing ; and at half-past two A.M. on the 23d, a partial clearing of 
the weather discovered to us the islands at the distance of a mile and a 
half to the N.W.b.W. The wind veering to the N.N.E. in the course of the 
afternoon, the weather became more clear; but the breeze freshening at 
night brought the whole body of external drift-ice upon us with considerable 
pressure. 

On the 25th the wind having at length backed to the W.N.W., the prospect 
began to brighten; the ice in the fair-way of the Strait soon acquiring motion 
to the eastward, and that near the ships shortly after beginning to drive, 
though more slowly, in the same direction. Half an hour after noon, as soon 
as there appeared the least chance of making any progress we made sail and 
prepared for moving the Fury. On heaving upon the hawsers, however, in 
order to cast the ship’s head towards a lane of water not two hundred yards 
distant, we found her so compactly “soldered,” as the sailors aptly call it, 
between the masses of ice by the late pressure from without, that all our 
power was insufficient to move her head a single degree of the compass. 
Captain Lyon having suggested the mode of pulling us out by making sail on 
the Hecla, which the ice had entirely left, it was tried without effect, the 
masses having so effectually overlaid cach other by the pressure as, with the 
assistance of a slight degree of frost, to form one body almost as compact as 
a solid floe. No better success attended an attempt to detach one piece 
after another, beginning from the outside, by the Hecla’s dragging upon them 
under all sail, for the ship was brought up without the masses separating. 
One only method and that a slow and laborious one remained, which was to 
employ all hands from both ships with handspikes, axes, and saws, to detach 
and force off one or two masses ata time. This plan at length effected our 
release ; and at nine P.M., after eight hours’ incessant labour bestowed upon 
an obstacle apparently so trifling, we got into clear water and stretched to 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 317 


the northward, the main ice having in the meantime disappeared so effectually 
that nothing was eventually lost by our late detention. After standing on 
for 21 hour or two we had scarcely any ice about us, and by midnight were 
entirely clear of it. 


The wind gradually falling was succeeded by a light north-easterly Mon. 26. 


breeze, with which at daylight on the 26th we steered under all possible 
sail up the Strait. The course being shaped and no ice in our way, I 
then went to bed; but was immediately after informed by Mr. Crozier that 
the compasses had shifted from N.}E., which was the course I left them 
indicating, to E.4N., being a change of seven points, in less than ten mi- 
nutes. After running half a mile in a true W.b.N. direction, the necdles 
began to return to their true position; in half a mile farther they had resumed 
their proper direction and agreed exactly at North. Having sent a boat to 
the Hecla immediately on our noticing the first alteration, I found from 
Captain Lyon that a similar phenomenon was observed to take place on 
board that ship, which was following in our wake. The breeze slowly in- 
creasing from the eastward, and the weather happily remaining unusually 
clear for that direction of the wind, we soon arrived off the narrow part of 
the Strait, immediately on opening which, we met a tide or current, running 
above two knots to the eastward with numerous eddies and ripplings. By 
keeping on the south or continental shore, and passing along by Cape North- 
East, within two or three hundred yards of the rocks, we succeeded with 
the assistance of the boats a-head in getting through the channel soon after 
eleven o’clock. ; 

The length of this narrowest part of the Strait is three miles, in an E.b.S. 
and W.b.N. direction ; it is two miles across and nearly uniform in its width 
the whole way through. The rocks of red sandstone on the south side shelve 
gradually down from a height of three or four hundred feet, so that in sail- 
ing through we had generally two fathoms more depth of water on the outer 
than on the inner side of the ship, the soundings continuing deep however 
almost close to the shore. The opposite or northern land of the narrows, 
where on closer examination we found several, islands, is also high, but less 
shelving than the other, and presenting when clear of snow a much darker 
appearance. The eastern point of the entrance on this shore, which I named 
Carr Ossory, has a small rocky islet lying close off it, upon which there was 
much heavy ice aground. In several other places also on both sides, but 
particularly on the south shore, large heaps of ice lay piled up upon the rocks 


| a 
hi 
Abt ay, 
ue t 
ii 
tan 


318 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


in one or two spots to the height of forty or fifty feet. The current in mid- 


wy~ channel was running three or four knots to the eastward when we came 


through, and nothing but the boldness of the shore would have enabled 
us to effect a passage, as the wind was too light to stem the stream in the 
middle. 

Steering to the southward of the island before seen from Cape North-East, 
in order still to keep along the continental shore, we passed between two 
dangerous shoals, one of which runs off from the island and the other lies 
quite by itself, about midway between this and the main-land. The latter 
was at this time pointed out by a great quantity of heavy ice lying aground 
upon it, as well as by a yellow sandstone rock that made its appearance in 
one or two places just above the surface of the water. After clearing these, 
and again deepening our soundings, we had begun to indulge the most flatter- 
ing hopes of now making such a rapid progress as would in some degree com- 
pensate for all our delays and disappointments, when, at once to crush every 
expectation of this sort, it was suddenly announced from the crow’s-nest 
that another barrier of fixed ice stretched completely across the Strait, a little 
beyond us, in one continuous and impenetrable field, still occupying its 
winter-station. In less than an hour we had reached its margin when, find- 
ing this report but too correct, and that therefore all further progress was at 
present as impracticable as if no Strait existed, we ran the ships under all 
sail for the floe, which proved so “ rotten” and decayed that the ships forced 
themselves three or four hundred yards through it before they stopped. 
Keeping all our canvass spread we then tried to break the thin edges about 
the numerous holes, by dropping weights over the bows, as well as by vari- 
ous other equally ineffectual expedients ; but the ice was “ tough” enough 
to resist every eflort of this kind, though its watery state was such as to 
increase if possible our annoyance at being stopped by it. The passage to 
the northward of the island was not even so clear as this by above two miles 
of ice, so that in every respect our present route was to be preferred to the 
other ; and thus after a vexatious delay of six weeks at the castern entrance 
of the Strait, and at a time when we had every reason to hope that nature, 
though hitherto tardy in her annual disruption of the ice, had at length made 
an effort to complete it, did we find our progress once more opposed by a 
barrier of the same continuous, impenetrable, and hopeless nature as at 
first ! 

We lay here in thirty-six fathoms on a soft bottom, being about a mile and a 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 319 


half from the high rugged land of the continent to the south, and a mile and Desaore 
three-quarters from the island, which is comparatively low. Some sea-water ord 
taken up from the surface in passing through the narrows, was found by Mr. 
Fisher to be of the specific gravity 1.0263, at the temperature of 52°. 
The wind being light and variable on the 27th, two boats were sent to the Tues. 27. 
island and two to the main-land by way of examining the natural productions, 
of which I shall have occasion to speak more fully hereafter. Specimens of 
every thing noticed were brought on board by our gentlemen, and the fol- 
lowing remarkable observations made on the tides, the first being Lieutenant 
Reid’s report on the main-land, and the second that of Mr. Henderson’s on 
the island: “The tide was found to ebb by the shore from thirty minutes 
past nine till thirty minutes after cleven A.M., the fall being four inches. 
From'thirty minutes past eleven to fifteen minutes after noon it rose one inch, 
and then fell four inches till two P.M., when the boat left the shore.” 
“ Landing on the island at twenty minutes past nine A.M. the tide was ob- 
served to fall six inches till thirty minutes past eleven, from which time till 
noon it rose an inch and a half, then ebbed eight inches till thirty minutes 
after two P.M.” The tide, being tried in the offing by the small boat moored 
to the bottom, was found to set as follows : 


h., m per hour, 
At 9.10 A.M. ‘ E.S.E. : 4 mile 
» ILS ,, ; W.S W. ; ao» 
» 2.0 PM. ; Westward ‘ + » 
» 4.0 ” . Do. . t ” 


Between seven and eight P.M. the loose ice began to leave the floc edge, 
and to drift against a light wind to the eastward. By these and our subse- 
quent observations on the tides in this part of the Strait, it seems apparent 
that the phenomena, both of the stream and of the rise and fall of the water, 
are the joint effects of a tide and a current, the latterin general setting to the 
castward at this season. 

The weather being warm, a sensible altcration was produced in the ap- 
pearance of the ice in the course of the day, and we could not now commu- 
nicate between the two ships by walking over the floc, without the assist- 
ance of planks. This circumstance encouraged me once more to attempt 
getting the ships through it to the westward, by employing the method of 
sawing and sinking, though where this labour was to end it was not casy to 
gucss, as our partics on shore had not been able to discover from the hills 
any indication of open water in that direction. The saws and other geer 


. 


320 


1822. were, however, 
August. ‘ 

wm mornings. 

Wed, 28. ' The weather 


night, that we 


SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


prepared for this attempt at four o’clock the following 


became so thick with rain and snow in the course of the 
could not see half a mile in any direction ; but about one 


A.M. on the 28th, we began to perceive, by a gradual alteration in the 


soundings, that 


the ice to which the ships were attached was adrift. No 


time was therefore to be lost in getting the ships under way, to be at liberty 
to act as circumstances might require, for we did not know in what direction 
we were driving. The weather now became so much thicker, with snow in 
large flakes, that we could with difficulty see three hundred yards a-head. 


We stood to the 


eastward, however, and after getting sight of the grounded 


ice on the shoals, tacked off and on till we should see how the floe we had 


left was driving. 
on the shoals, so 


It was not long before we perceived it to be setting directly 
that it was necessary for us to find our way between them, at 


all risks, to avoid the certain danger of being forced upon the rocks. In 


making a tack 


near. the shoals, the Fury’s helm was. put down in eight 


fathoms, but before the sails filled, the ship was carried by the current into 
three, and the yellow rocks were plainly visible under her. She gathered 
way, however, just in time to avoid grounding, and the Hecla, presently 
after, escaping a similar accident near the same spot, we cleared the shoals 


in another tack 
Proceeding w 


or two, and then stood to the eastward. 
ith all the caution which the state of the weather, and the 


extremely confined nature of the navigation, rendered requisite, we soon 
made the northern land of the narrows, within a mile of which we remained 
for several hours, endeavouring to find some sheltered anchorage, the wind 
being fresh from the N.N.W. and the weather becoming still more inclement 
than before. So steep, however, was this shore, that we could obtain no 


soundings with 


eighty-cight fathoms of line at half a mile distance, and 


generally found from thirty to twenty-six within a cable’s length of the 


rocks, in every 


little nook the boats entered. In the evening, finding the 


weather not likely to improve, and that the situation of the ships, if kept 
under way during the night in this narrow and unknown channel, must be a 


very dangerous one, we bore up to make the island, in the hope of finding 


shelter under one of its numerous low points. In this last resource we were 


not disappointed ; for in an hour's run we made the island, which was now so 
covered with snow as to be casily mistaken for a floe of ice without great 
attention to the leads; and with a degree of good fortune which has never 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGR. 321 


yet deserted us in such cases, we succeeded in picking out an excellent an- 
chorage in eleven fathoms, where we passed a thick, snowy, and dark night, 
without any disturbance from wind or ice. 

As soon as the anchors were dropped, my attention was once more turned 
to the main object of the Expedition, from which it had for a moment been 
diverted by the necessity of exerting every effort for the immediate safety of 
the ships. This being now provided for, I had Icisure to consider in what man- 
ner, hampered as the ships were by the present state of the ice, our means 
and exertions might during this unavoidable detention be employed to the 
greatest advantage, or at least with the best prospect of ultimate utility. 

Whatever doubts might at a distance have been entertained respecting 
the identity, or the contrary, of theplace visited by Captain Lyon with that 
subsequently discovered by myself, there could be none on a nearer view ; 
as, independently of the observed latitude, Captain Lyon could not, on ap- 
proaching the narrows, recognise a single feature of the land; our present 
channel being evidently a much wider and more extensive one than that 
pointed out by Toolemak on the journey. It became, therefore, a matter of 
interest, now that this point was settled, and our progress again stopped by 

a insuperable obstacle, to ascertain the extent and communication of the 
southern inlet; and, should it prove a second strait, to watch the breaking up 
of the ice about its eastern entrance, that no favourable opportunity might 
be missed of pushing through it to the westward. Hitherto, as 1 have 
before remarked, the question respecting the existence of a sccond passage, 
had been wholly unimportant as concerned the movements of the Expedi- 
tion, because we could sce, at the time of our entering the present strait, 
that the only possible track to the other was blocked by solid and continuous 
ice. The mortifying prospect however of a second detention in this strait, 
added to the consideration of the sudden changes that often take place in 
the state of the ice, rendered it again necessary to revert to the southern 
inlet, to which, but a few days before, we had ceased to attach any importance. 
I therefore determined to despatch three separate parties, to satisfy all doubts 
in that quarter, as well as to gain every possible information as to the length 
of the Strait, and the extent of the fixed ice, now more immediately before us. 

With this view, I requested Captain Lyon to take with him Mr, Griffiths 
and four men, and proceed over land in a S.b.E. direction, till he should de- 
termine by the difference of latitude, which amounted only to sixteen miles, 
whether there was or was not a strait leading to the westward, about the 
2T 


1822. 
August. 
wy 


Bai) 

pay 

iif ai 

Uf ri y 
aes 4 
Gen ett 
un bk reat 
ae be be ip 
Whe ‘| 
i Bo. Bie 
Aid abel 
hi, 

bli Wate sat i 
ay Bree ee 
Hi bthaby A 
He We 
Fatt i Lp 
eu at} 
rH + Tah 
ae | 

a A ae 
ety 
ea a y 

; cfg’ ; 


Mees (hi 
ie HELE 
tine { 
re 
ta ji 
1 eae. ba 
, ‘ 
’ ce 
bee 
I den 
pec aera 
| ti 


1822. 
August, 
ww 


Thur. 29. 


322 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


parallel of 69° 26’, being nearly that in which the place called by the Esqui- 
maux Khe’ ig had been found by observation to lie. This appeared a simple 
and effectual method of deciding a question, on which the operations of the 
Expedition might ultimately depend. In the mean time, Lieutenant Palmer, 
was directed to proceed in a boat to Igloolik, or Neerlo-nakto, as might 
be necessary, to ascertain whether the passage leading towards Khemig was 
yet clear of ice ; and, should he find any one of the Esquimaux willing to 
accompany him to the ships with his canoe, to bring him on board as a pilot. 
The third party consisted of Mr. Bushnan, with three men, under the com- 
mand of Lieutenant Reid, who was instructed to proceed along the conti- 
nental coast to the westward, to gain as much information as possible re- 
specting the termination of our present strait, the time of his return to the 
ships being limited to four days, at the expiration of which the other two 
parties might also be expected to reach us. 

By this arrangement, in which the connexion of each expedition with the 
others, and that of the whole with our main object, will easily be perccived, 
I hoped to gain such information as would either confirm my determination 
to continue our efforts in the present station of the ships, or point out, 
beyond any doubt, the expediency of transferring them to some other 
quarter. Having gone on board the Hecla to communicate my views and 
intentions to Captain Lyon, I directed every thing to be in readiness for 
despatching the parties at noon on the following day. 

On the morning of the 29th, the wind being light from the eastward but 
the weather much more clear than before, we weighed and stood over to the 
main-land with the intention of putting our travellers on shore, but found 
that coast now so lined with the ice which had lately broken adrift, that it 
was not possible for a boat to approach it. We could not help at this time 
congratulating ourselves on the fortunate escape we had experienced, in not 
having already cut any distance into the floe before it separated ; for in such 
a case it would hardly have been possible to escape driving on shore with it. 
Standing off to the westward, to see what service the late disruption had 
done us, we found that a considerable floe had separated, exactly in a line 
between the island off which we lay and a second to the westward of it, 
subsequently ‘named, at Lieutenant Hoppner’s request, in honour of Lorp 
Amuerst*, Tacking at the newly-formed margin of the fixed ice, we observed, 


* These two islands are probably those delineated by Tligliuk in this situation, in her chart, 


(No. 2.) 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 323 


not only that it was still firmly attached to the shores, but that it was now 
almost entirely ‘“ hummocky,” and heavier than any we had seen since 
making Igloolik ; some of the hummocks, as we afterwards found, measuring 
from eight to ten feet above the surface of the sea. 

The different character now assumed by the ice, while it certainly damped 
our hopes of the passage being cleared this season by the gradual effect of 
dissolution, confirmed however, in a very satisfactory manner, the belief 
of our being in a broad channel communicating with a western sea. As 
the conclusions we immediately drew from this circumstance may not be so 
obvious to others, I shall here briefly explain that, from the manner in which 
the hummocky floes are formed, it is next to impossible that any of these of 
considerable extent can ever be produced in a mere inlet having a narrow 
communication with the sea. There is in fact no ice to which the denomi- 
nation of ‘‘ sea-ice’? may be more strictly and exclusively applied than this ; 
and we therefore felt confident that the immense floes which now opposed 
our progress, must have come from the sea on one side or the other; while 
the current, which we had observed to run in an easterly direction in the 
narrows of this strait, precluded the possibility of such ice having found its 
way in from that quarter, The only remaining conclusion was, that it must 
have been set into the Strait from the westward towards the close of a sum- 
mer, and cemented in its present situation by the frost of the succeeding winter, 

Standing back towards the Eastern Island, which I named after my friend 
and late companion in these regions, Caprain Mattnew Linpon of the 
Royal Navy, and finding the shore quite clear of ice, we dropped our 
anchors under its lee in twelve fathoms, on a muddy bottom, at the dis- 
tance of half a mile from the beach. We had scarcely secured the ships, 
however, when some large masses of heavy drift-ice began to set toward us, 
and several of these successively coming in contact with the Fury’s bows 
and cable, I directed the anchors to be immediately weighed again, rather 
than run any risk of damage to them; and sailing over to the fixed ice, made 
our hawsers fast to it and lay securely for the night. 


A great deal of snow having fallen in the last two days, scarcely a dark Frid. 30. i 


patch was now to be seen on any part of the land, so that the prospect at 
daylight on the 30th, was as comfortless as can well be imagined for the 
parties who were just about to find their way among the rocks and precipices. 
Soon after four A.M., however, when we had ascertained that the drift-ice 
was no longer lying in their way, they were all despatched in their different 
2T 2 


1822, 
August. 


i id 


Sat. 31, 


324° SECCND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


directions. For cach of the land-parties a depét of several days’ provision 
and fuel was, in case of accidents, established on the beach; and Lieutenant 
Palmer took in his boat a supply for nine days. 

The fact of our never having seen a stream of tide or current setting 
through the narrows of the Strait in any direction but to the castward, made 
it an object of curiosity to ascertain by observation on the spot during at least 
two consecutive tides, whether or not a permanent current existed there. 
¥ determined therefore on despatching Mr. Crozier on this service ; and the 
absence of so many of our people necessarily limiting our means, his 
establishment only consisted of the small nine-feet boat and two marines, 
with which he left us under sail at one P.M., being provisioned for four days. 
I directed Mr. Crozier to land and pitch his tent somewhere about Cape 
North-East, and after carefully observing the tides, both on shore and in the 
offing, for the whole of one day, immediately to return to the ships. The 
weather improving as the day advanced, a good deal of snow disappeared 
from the islands, but little or none on the rugged high land of the continent. 

On the 3lst, the wind blew fresh and cold from the north-west, which 
caused a quantity of ice to separate from the fixed floe in small pieces during 
the day, and drift past the ships. Early in the morni‘.g, a she-bear and her 
two cubs were observed floating down on one of these masses, and coming 
close to the Hecla were all killed. The female proved remarkably small, 
two or three men being able to lift her into a boat. +A large party of us from 
each ship passed several hours on shore at Liddon Island, in examining its 
natural productions. The basis of this island, which rises perhaps in some 
parts two hundred feet above the level of the sea, is a brownish sandstone, 
though the same substance is abundantly found of different colours, such as 
red of various shades, dark brown, white, and striped with curved lines in 
the manner described near Cape North-East. On the higher parts of the 
land, nodules of white quartz, from an inch and a half in diameter to the 
size of a grain of sand, are found in large quantities imbedded in the sand- 
stone rock, and a great variety of other substances are lying in loose pieces 
onthe beach. Of these one of the most abundant was a species of iron- 
stone which, from its weight, appeared to be a rich ore; and a large rock on 
the beach contained a good deal of asbestos. A great variety of other 
specimens were procured from this island, which was however almost 
entirely barren of the productions of the animal and vegetable kingdoms. 
Of the former we saw only a single herd of deer, and the little vegeta- 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. | 325 


tion which might have afforded them subsistence, was now permanently 
covered with a coating of snow, from three to six inches in depth, and so 
hard as to allow us to walk on it without sinking. The view from the high 
part of the island, which was a favourable situation for opening the western 
entrance of the Strait, was extremely satisfactory as regarded land, but not a 
single break could be seen in the ice, to the utmost limits of the horizon. 

At half-past nine on the morning of the lst of September, one of our 
parties was descried at the appointed rendezvous on shore, which on our 
sending a boat to bring them on board, proved to be Captain Lyon and 
his people. From their early arrival we were in hopes that some decisive in- 
formation had at length been obtained ; and our disappointment may there- 
fore be imagined, in finding that, owing to insuperable obstacles on the road, 
of which Captain Lyon’s annexed account will give the best idea, he had 
not been able to advance above five or six miles to the southward, and that 
with excessive danger and fatigue, owing to the depth of the snow, and the 
numerous lakes and precipices. 


“ On striking inland we found the mountains deeply covered with snow, 
yet made about three miles uninterrupted, but by the precipices. At this 
distance we found the mountains to increase considerably in height, and 
they were so completely intersected by deep lakes, as frequently to oblige 
us to retrace our steps and toil up the same cliffs which we had but a short 
time before descended with considerable difficulty: and danger. The depth 
of the recently fallen snow was from one to three feet, and where chasms 
occurred amongst the crags it was of course ina greater body. We here 
found it requisite to feel our way with poles, for had any of our party 
fallen into a cleft of the rocks it would have been out of our power to 
extricate him. The general acclivity of the mountains was so great that it 
became necessary to disperse in climbing or descending, least the loose 
fragments of a rock, or a false step, should have precipitated those bencath 
several hundred feet to the bottom. We were employed above eight hours 
to-day at this laborious work, and found in the evening that we had not 
made more than five miles direct from our first landing-place, for we could 
plainly see the open water in which the ships were lying, and with naked 
eye discern the grounded ice off Liddon Island. We pitched our tents 
under a crag on the mountain top where we passed a very cold night. 

‘* We set out at six in the morning of the 31st, apparently with a better 


1822, 
August, 
ww 


Sept. 
Sun. 1. 


a a a som am 5 a Ft eS 24 ae Stez = Se Se ee nite Bary ee 
Sapte BE - ni es RRS weer vate 


a Tek pen ae ~ mit cannon Bini. tamamonsn 


ae 


ABSTRACT of the METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL kept on board His Majesty’s Ship 
Fury, at Sea, during the Month of August, 1822. " 1% 


Fahrenheit’s Ther- Sea Water at Prevailing 


mometer. the surface. | Barometer. Winds. Prevailing 


Place. ae ican Temp Weather, 
Maxi- | Mini- Mean [Specific whee, | Maxis | Mini- . 
mum. | mum, Mean. || Temp. | Gravity weighed | mum. | mum, Mean. Direction. Velocity. 


° fe} fe} inches | inches | inches wesate , 
$1.33]1.0265| 559 |} 29.58), 29.39/20.483) ESE modt. |j,hazy and rain 
$2.42 211.62} 29.59/29 603) NE modt, cloudy 

; Jon neall (AM. NE : 
31,83 29.62 29.48|20.578) 1 PM. OW | light fino 
31.50\t.0243} 56 || 29.61] 29.43/29.530| SWto NW] modt,_ |{*loudy, rain at 


times 
31.00 29.61] 29.56/29.582'] South modt, _||loudy, rain at 
light, calm 


times 
at times fine 
32,11/1.0261 29.52] 29.49/29.508 WNW modt. fine 
32.67 29.57] 29.44/29 .50% WNW light hazy and rain 
31.54 29.53| 20.37|29.400/8 to WNW | light |} Ba2y, rain at 
$1.92) 54] 29, 45/29. 495 SW modt. cloudy 


| 31.67 .71] 29.60)29.663 WbN moat. fine 


P 90 90): " strong to ||hazy, snow and 
$1.42 -48) 29.20/29,312}| SSE light sleet 


81.75 } 29.38) 29.28129,207|| Westerly | light || say; rain at 
31.42 29.38/29.412/; WNW modt cloudy 
$1.12 40} 29.38)29.395)] NWbW modt, cloudy 
31.21 43) 29.40) éagpal NNW modt. |jhazy and snow 

i] 81.37 29.48/20.553| NWbW | light cloudy 
31.83 } 20.64] 20.60/29.615|| North | modt. fine 

|} 92.54 29.70) 20.65 aa Saat | variable || cloudy 
32.00 H 29.80) 29.70/29.743| WNW | modt.. cloudy 
31.50 | 64] 29.54 vce NE modt. |ifoggy and rain 
29.06 | 29.51) 29.33/29. 438) Kast light foggy 
20.67 t +33] 29,21)20.. 27) NE modt. |} hazy and rain 

| 30.50 46} 29,38)29.430/) NWbW modt. | cloudy 
30.25 -61] 29.48/29.563 NW moat. fine 


$2.67)| 20,42]1.0263] 52 . ma. East light cloudy 


|} 31,42 29.57] 29.52/20.642 NW 


Off the Eastern Entrance of the Strait of the Fury and Hecla. 


y 


32.75 | 28,70(1.0256] 52 68] 20.41'29.572|1 ESE light cloudy 
80.71!| 28.20 29.09 29.188]// NNW modt, |{hazy and snow 
30.42)| 28.54 29,0229.173|| NWbN | light |/bazy, snow a 


times 
29.62 20.0130. AM. North) jione cloudy 


UPM. West 
29.82) 29,62 29, 728 NW modt. cloudy 


In the Strait of the Fur 
and Hedla. 


‘a 

| | 
a7 : } 20.82] 29 02 20.500 
| 


SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY. 327 


prospect befere.us, but after scrambling about a mile found ourselves again 
obliged to retrace our steps in order to avoid a chain of lakes, and when 
after three hours’ exertion we had, as we supposed, got nearly round these, 
another cluster of greater magnitude was discovered, and we found our- 
selves not five hundred yards from the spot on which we had slept. In 
descending a precipice one of the men lost his hold, but was fortunately 
arrested by a rock which lay beneath the snow, and escaped with only a se- 
vere contusion on the nose. We had been obliged to throw our knapsacks 
down this cliff and use the greatest caution in sliding down it, but had no 
sooner reached its foot than the discovery of the lake obliged us again to 
gain the height. Finding it impossible to accomplish the service at this 
rate of travelling, and having only five hours to complete the out-going time 
I determined on turning back, and arrived at the ships before noon on the 
Ist of September. 

“ The mountains we passed were all of gneiss and granite, and I should 
suppose many of them a thousand feet above the level of the sea. One chain 
of lakes extended east and west about six or eight miles, and they were 
apparently of great depth, although their width did not exceed a quarter 
of a mile at any part. In these were several small falls or bars, over two of 
which we waded. The steepness of the ridge of mountains bounding the 
longest extent of lakes may be better understood by the outline I took on 
the spot. 


1822. 
Sept. 


SS aa) 


ce, 3 _ 8 


Sept. 
a> eS) 


Sun. 1. 


Mon. 2. 


August, 
39, 


328 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


“The upper or craggy part was of solid granite, and the slope of its 
debris, which however was in most cases deeply covered by snow. In all 
the lakes was a sheet of solid ice, detached from the banks and floating 
in the centre. Its thickness above water was from six to twelve inches. 
The little vegetation we saw was shrivelled and dry, which may account 


‘for the absence of deer. We saw numerous tracks of them near the lakes, 


but they were not recent, and may have been made while the animals were 
herding for their final departure ; a few small flocks of buntings were scen 
as if also assembled to migrate to the southward.” 


Being thus by a combination of untoward circumstances baffled in an 
endeavour which had appeared almost certain of success, we had only to 
await with patience the arrival of our other parties ; scarcely however ven- 
turing to hope that their information alone could prove of any great interest 
or importance in furthering our main object. The north-west wind freshen- 


‘ing almost to a gale, which made me somewhat apprehensive for Mr. Crozier 


and _ his little establishment at the Narrows, I despatched Mr. Ross, at 
seven this evening, to carry him a fresh supply of provisions and to assist 
him on his return to the ship. At the same time I directed Mr. Ross to 
occupy the following day in examining the portion of land forming the 
northern shore of the Narrows, which we had some reason to suppose 
insular, 

At nine A.M. on the 2d, Lieutenant Reid and his party were descried at 
their landing-place, and a boat being sent for them arrived on board at hali- 
past eleven. An account of this journey, which was accompanied by a 
sketch of the coast, is here subjoined. 


“ Landing at six A.M. on the 30th, we commenced our march about due 
west along the coast, though not in a direct line, the hills being in many 
parts perpendicular down to the water, and we had to cross one inlet in 
which ‘the ice was broken up. At noon we arrived at an inlet, froma 
quarter of a mile to a mile and a quarter in width, with a rapid run of water, 
having in it two small islands, and in part covered with ice. Following the 
stream down to the sea, without finding a fording-place, we ascended the 
banks, and at length crossed upon the ice with much difficulty. Dining on 


the 
tent 
tren 
cou 
van 
dist 

66 
befe 
stre 
coul 
grac 
hill 
loos 
the 
side 
due 
was 
wer 
wes 
with 
Not 
pen 
was 
how 
east 


6s 


tracl 
our 

nine 
the | 
four 
the | 
extr 
leav 
from 
unbi 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 329 


the west side we continued our journey, and at half-past six pitched our 
tents for the night. This day’s journcy was from hill to hill, over ex- 
tremely rugged land, frequently interrupted by lakes, which made the 
course so circuitous that, though in a direct line we could not have ad- 
vanced more than fifteen miles, we ‘had probably traversed twice that 
distance. 

“Setting out at four A.M. on the 3lst, we now kept more inland than 
before, and descended into a deep valley, having at the bottom a rapid 
stream, which we were obliged to follow nearly to the sea before we 
could cross it, after which we got upon tolerably good ground leading 
gradually up to the hills. We then again began to ascend, hill after 
hill rising in succession, and the rugged ground being covered with large 
loose stones, having the space between them filled with snow, which made 
the walking heavy and dangerous. At noon we had gained a hill of con- 
siderable height, having walked sixteen miles, and now found ourselves 
due west of the ships, distant about six leagues. From this station, which 
was in some respects a commanding onc, the bearings and an eye-sketch 
were taken by Mr. Bushnan, but the land still interrupted our view to the 
westward, so that in that direction very little more could be ascertained 
with respect to the extent of the Strait than might be seen from the ships. 
Notwithstanding this circumstance however, as our provisions were half ex- 
pended, I deemed it prudent to proceed no farther, especially as the road 
was now so rugged, that little or nothing more could be effected in a few 
hours’ travelling. At three P.M. therefore we set out on our return to the 
eastward and reached the Fury before noon on the 2d. 

“In the course of our journey only six rein-deer were seen; but the 
tracks of these animals, as well as of bears and foxes, were numerous. From 
our farthest station on the western hills, which rise perhaps from eight to 
nine hundred feet above the sea, we observed another head-land beyond 
the extreme point seen from the ships, and distant from it about three or 
four leagues ; but the intervention of other land prevented our discovering 
the trending of the coast further to the westward. The northern land is 
extremely high, and its western point appeared about ten leagues distant, 
leaving an extensive opening in that direction. The ice seemed to extend 
from Amherst Island as far as we could see to the westward, presenting one 
unbroken surface from the north to the south shore of the Strait.” 

2uU 


1822. 


Sept. 
wy 


31. 


Tues. 3. 


330 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


Notwithstanding every exertion on the part of our travellers, their labours 
had not thrown much light on the geography of this part of the coast, nor 
added any information that could be of practical use in directing the opera- 
tions of the ships: ‘The important question respecting a second passage 
leading to the westwaid still remained as much a matter of mere con- 
jecture as at first; while the advanced period of the season, and the 
unpromising appearance of the ice now opposing our progress, rendered it 
more essential than ever that this point should, if possible, be fully decided. 
Under this impression, it occurred to me that the desired object might pos- 
sibly be accomplished, by pursuing the route along the head or western 
shore of Richards’ Bay, part of which I had already traversed on my former 
journey, and found it much less laborious walking than that experienced by 
Captain Lyon on the higher and more rugged mountains inland. I deter- 
mined therefore to make this attempt, taking with me Mr. Richards and most 
of my former companions, and proceeding in a boat as far as the isthmus 
mentioned on the 17th of August, from whence our journey might at once 
be advantageously commenced. 

This night proved the coldest we had experienced during the present sea- 
son, and the thermometer stood at 24° when I left the ships at four A.M. on 
the 8d, having previously directed Captain Lyon to remain as near their 
present station as might be consistent with safety, and carefully to watch 
for any alteration that might occur in the western ice. I also requested 
Captain Lyon to render Mr. Fisher every assistance in his power in the tri- 
gonometrical measurement of some high snow-capped hills to the north-west, 
which at my desire he had undertaken. To the land on which these moun- 
tains stand, and which the Esquimaux call Keiyuk-tarruoke, I gave the name 
of Cocxsurn IsLanp, in honour of Vice-Apmirat Sir Grorce Cocxgurn, one 
of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, whose warm personal interest 
in every thing relating to Northern Discovery can only be surpassed by the 
public zeal with which he has always promoted it. 

Being favourec by a strong north-westerly breeze, we reached the nar- 
rows at half-past six A.M., and immediately encountered a race or ripple so 
heavy and dangerous, that it was only by carrying a press of canvass on the 
boat that we succeeded in keeping the seas from constantly breaking into 
her. This rippling appeared to be occasioned by the sudden obstruction 
which the current meets at the western mouth of the narrows, aided in 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 331 EH ie 


rs the present instance, by the strong breeze that blew directly upon the corner 1822. he 
or forming the entrance on the south side. On clearing this, which we did ww 
a- after running about one-third of a mile and then getting into smooth water, ane 
re though the current was running at least three knots to the eastward, the i hes) 
n- thoughts of all our party were, by one common impulse, directed to- WT el 
le wards Mr. Crozier and his little boat, which could not possibly have lived i * 
it in the sea we had just encountered. It was not, therefore, without the BY 
d. most serious apprehension on his account that I landed at Cape North-East, 
S- , where I ‘had directed the observations to be made on the tides; and send 
mn ing Mr. Richards one way along the shore, proceeded myself along the other 
er to look for him. On firing a musket, after a quarter of an hour’s walk, I had 
vy the indescribable satisfaction of seeing Mr. Crozier make his appearance 
T= from behind a rock, where he was engaged in watching the tide-mark. I 
st found him and his party quite safe and well, though they had encountered 
1) no small danger, while attempting to try the velocity of the stream in the 
ce narrows, being beset by a quantity of drift-ice irom which they with dif- 
ficulty escaped to the shore. I found also that Mr. Ress, after towing them 
a- in when adrift, and leaving Mr. Crozier his provisions, had proceeded to 
on accomplish his other object, appointing a plac: t:: meet them cn his return 
vir to the ships. In half an hour after we saw the gig crossing to us under 
ch sail, and were soon joined by Mr. Ross, who informed me that he had de- 
bd termined the insularity of the northern land, which I therefore distinguished 
ri- by the name of Ormonp IsLanp, out of respect to the Eart or ORMOND AND 
st, Ossory. 
n- Having furnished our gentlemen with an additional supply of provisions, 
he in case of their being unavoidably detained by the continuance of the wind, 
e I made sail for the isthmus at ten A.M., where we arrived after an hour’s 
st run, and hauling the boat up on the rocks and depositing the greater part 
e of our stores near her, set off ai one P.M. along the shore of Richards’ 
Bay, being equipped with only thie: days’ provision and as small a weight 
r- of clothing as possible. The coasi, though not bad for travelling, led 


us so much more to the westward than I expected, in consequence of its 
numerous indentations that, after above five hours’ hard walking, we had tees 
to only made good a W.S.W. course, direct distance six miles. One of our na 
bn men then compleining of giddiness and other unpleasant symptoms, we | 
n halted and pitched the tent amidst rugged and barren rocks of red granite, \ 
dreary and desolate beyond description, A single snow-bunting was literally 
2U2 


eee ee 


ior 
ere 


1822. 
Sept. 


Wed. 4. 


332 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


all we saw of animal life during this afternoon’s walk ; but the tracks of deer, 
all going to the southward, were everywhere seen upon the snow. We ob- 
tained on every eminence a distinct view of the ice the whole way down to 
Neerlo-nakto, in which space not a drop of clear water was discernible ; the 
whole of Richards’ Bay was filled with ice as before. 

We moved at six P.M. on the 4th, and soon came to a number of lakes 
from half a mile to two miles in length, occurring in chains of three or four 
together, round which we had to walk at the expense of much time and 
labour. All these terminated towards the sea in inlets, one of which 
that we came to at nine A.M., and which I named after Mr. Hatse of 
the Fury, was three or four miles in length, and detained us two hours in 
walking round the head of it. These inlets were still filled with ice of the 
last winter's formation, except close round the shores, where a narrow space 
of open water had been formed by the warmth of the land. We halted ata 
quarter past eleven, having made good four miles and a half in a 8.b.W. di- 
rection, and found ourselves by observation at noon in latitude 69° 32’ 58", 
Continuing our journey at three P.M. we soon arrived at the shores of ano- 
ther inlet like the former, two or three miles in length, up which we had to 
walk above two before we could make any southing. We were then for the 
first time enabled to proceed almost directly to the southward, our only in- 
terruption being occasioned by the numerous steep and craggy hills which 
every where presented themselves, At half-past five we suddenly came in 
sight of a high and remarkably level piece of table-land, immediately to the 
southward of us, and extending for several miles in an cast and west direc- 
tion. Along the upper part ran a narrow perpendicular ridge having a dark 
appearance, and the rest formed a yellow shelving slope, as if composed of 
the dedris falling uniformly from above. At half-past six, on gaining a sight 
of the sea from the top of a hill, we immediately recognised to the eastward 
the numerous islands of red granite described by Captain Lyon; and now 
perceived what had before been surmised, that the south shore of Richards’ 
Bay formed the northern coast of the inlet, up which his journey with the 
Esquimaux had been pursued. Our latitude by account from noon being 
now 69° 28’, we felt confident that a short walk directly to the south must 
bring us to any strait communicating with that inlet, and we therefore 
pushed on in confident expectation of being near our journey’s end, At 
seven P.M., leaving the men to pitch the tent in a sheltered valley, Mr. 
Richards and myself ascended the hill that rose beyond it, and on reaching 


st 


Wi 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 333 


its summit found ourselves overlooking a long and narrow arm of the sea 
communicating with the inlet before seen to the eastward, and appearing to 
extend several miles nearly in an east and west direction, or parallel to the 
table-land before described, from which it is distant three or four miles. The 
space between the creek and the table-land is quite low, forming a striking con- 
trast with the rugged shore on which we stood, and being covered with abun- 
dant vegetation, as well as intersected by numerous ponds of water. The 
breadth of the little creek at the place at which we had arrived, being half a 
mile above its junction with the wider inlet in which the Coxe Islands iie, is 
about half a mile, and continues nearly the same for three or four miles that 
we could trace it in a westerly direction. Beyond this it seemed to turn 
more northerly, and our view being obstructed by the high and rugged hills 
of which, on the north side of the creek, the whole tract of country is com- 
posed, 1 determined to pursue our journey along its banks in the morning, 
to ascertain its further extent, or at least to trace it till it was no longer 
navigable for ships. That the creck we now overlooked was a part of the 
same arm of the sea which Captain Lyon had visited, the latitude, the bear- 
ings of Igloolik which was now plainly visible, and the number and appear. 
ance of the Coxe Islands, which were too remarkable to be mistaken, all con- 
curred in assuring us; and it only therefore remained for us to determine 
whether it would furnish a passage for the ships. Having made all the re- 
marks which the lateness of the evening would permit, we descended to the 
tent at dusk, being directed by a cheerful blazing fire of the andromeda tetra- 
gona, which in its present dry state served as excellent fuel for warming our 
provisions. 

Setting forward at five A.M. on the 5th, along some pleasant valleys covered 
with grass and other vegetation, and the resort of numerous rein-deer, we 
walked six or seven miles in a direction parallel to that of the creek ; when, find- 
ing the latter considerably narrowed, and the numerous low points of its south 
shore rendering the water too shoal, to all appearance, even for the navigation 
ofa sloop of ten tons, I determined to waste no more time in the further exami- 
nation of so insignificant a place. There was not in this creck the least per- 
ceptible stream of tide or current, which circumstance alone, considering the 
strength of that which rushes through the Strait of the Fury and Hecla, would 
have been sufficient perhaps to demonstrate that it had no outlet to the west- 
ward, Its whole appearance indeed indicated it to be what it has since 
proved, a mere inlet of the sea, similar to those we hed before passed, com- 


Thur. 5. 


Se ae Sera ae 


a 


ca Beason es ay 


1822, 


334 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


municating with lakes and streams which annually pour their waters into it, 


wae affording excellent kayak navigation to the Esquimaux, and supplying them 


Frid. 5, 


with the salmon with which they had lately provided us. The farther we 
went to the westward the higher the hills became ; and the commanding pros- 
pect thus afforded enabled us distinctly to perceive with a glass that, though 
the ice had been entirely dissolved in the creek, and for half a mile below it, 
the whole sea beyond this to the eastward, even as far as Igloolik, was co- 
vered with one continuous and unbroken floe. 

Having now completely satisfied myself that, as respected both ice and land, 
there was no navigable passage for ships about this latitude, no time was 
lost in setting out on our return. To avoid the numerous indentations of 
Richards’ Bay, we kept rather more inland ; by which means, though we at 
first encountered some of the steep precipices and deeper snow described by 
our other travellers, we eventually saved ourselves much walking. On this 
high ridge the hills, which are generally steep on both sides, and with a 
quantity of the loose debris lying up and down them, occur very close toge- 
ther ; so that no sooner has the summit of one been gained, than another of 
equally forbidding aspect presents itself, the valleys between them being 
chiefly occupied by lakes of various sizes, all except the mere shallow ponds 
having a floe of solid ice covering their surface. Some of the smaller streams 
that supply the lakes had now been arrested by the autumnal frost, and the 
smallest pools on the rocks were frozen to the bottom; but the larger 
streams were still running in full force, and no ‘* young "” ice had as yet 
formed upon the lakes. The rocks are here entirely of red granite ; and we 
frequently noticed rounded and insulated hills of this shape, 


situated at the end of a valley, and appearing as it were to flank it. 

Nothing of interest occurred during the rest of our journey to the boat, 
which we reached before dark on the evening of the 6th, having suffered 
only a few trifling bruises in the course of our serambling over the rocks. 
The thermometer fell to 19° at night, but our depdt at the boat furnishing 


e 


- 
- 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 335 


abundance of additional clothing, we found the tent as warm as could be 1822- 


desired ; which was by no means the case at this season when we were lightly whee 


equipped jor ‘ravelling. The night was beautifully clear, with a bright moon- 
light; but a cloud of dense vapour hung over the land in most parts, which 
was not entirely dissipated until late on the following day. 


We launched the boat at day-break on the 7th, and on arriving at the nar- Sat.7- 


rows, were glad to find that our other boats had left the place. The current 
was as usual setting to the eastward, and in one place about the middle: of 
the narrows, where a large collection of squeezed-up ice formed a small 
projecting point, it ran full four knots. Rowing over to the north shore, 
we landed there to dine at a quarter past eleven, which was just the 
time of high water, on an islet at the cntrance of a bay. While rest- 
ing here we observed the small pieces of ice setting fast to the westward, 
and proceeding at two P.M., found the boat favoured by a considerable tide 
in the same direction, This we kept till about five P.M., when we had 
reached Liddon Island, and were there met by a tide from the westward, it 
being then about low water by the shore ; from which it seemed reasonable 
to conclude that the flood-tide came from the westward. At half-past eight 
we arrived on board, where I was happy to find that all our parties had re- 
turned without accident, except that Lieutenant Palmer had been wounded | 
in his hand, and temporarily blinded by a gun accidentally going off, from 

which however he fortunately suffered no eventual injury. Licutenant Pal- 

mer reported his having ascertained that the ice still remained attached to 

the land from the western part of Igloolik across to the continent, precluding 

all possibility of a passage to the westward in that direction. Lieutenant 

Palmer's report contained numerous observations for the geographical posi- 

tion of the parts of the land which he visited, and some notices respecting 

the Esquimaux mode of burial, which will be given in another place. 

No alteration had taken place in the state of the ice during my absence, 
except what was occasioned by a few small pieces now and then breaking off 
from the margin, which however scarcely effected a change that was sensible 
in the course of several days. The ships had therefore remained undis- 
turbed at the station where I left them ; and in order to occupy the time as 
usefully as possible, Captain Lyon had despatched a party under the com- 
mand of Lieutenant Hoppner to travel along some low land next the sea, to 
the westward; with the hope of his thus being enabled, by escaping the 
rugged ground encountered by Licutenant Reid, to add something more to 


Sar ne 


2 eae 


ee 


" . ea 
ae ep A ae 


ares 


sie 


i i <n ea oe ee 


336 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


our knowledge of the continental shore of the Strait. Lieutenant Hoppner 


r~ had just returned from this excursion, an account of which, together with 


those of Messrs. Crozier and Ross, will bring up the narrative of our pro- 
ceedings to this time. 


MR. CROZIER’S ACCOUNT OF THE TIDES. 


“ During the time of our stay at the narrows of the Strait no opportunity 
was lost of continuing our observations on the tides, an abstract of which is 
contained in the following Table. By these it will be perceived that in mid- 
channel tk. stream constantly set to the eastward from daylight till dark, and 
that when on the south shore a westerly set was observable, the tide was 
generally falling. In rowing along the north shore of the narrows, on our 
return we had a strong westerly set of at least two miles an hour, from 
thirty minutes after eleven A.M. till thirty minutes after two P.M. on the 3d, 
during most of which time the tide was ebbing by the shore, and having 
landed the same evening upon the east end of Liddon Island, we found it 
high water at seven P.M., being about an hour earlier than the last observed 
tide in the narrows. 


Tide Table in the Narrows of the Strait of the Fury and Hecla. 


| High Water, || Low Water. 
Day. (- 


Rise | Fall 


.M. M of of REMARKS, &e. 
1922, = - | nam,| Non’ ff Tide. | Tide, 
| P.M. .M, 
ft. in, | ft, in. 
.20]} A.M. The stream in mid-channel was setting to the eastward during the 
0.40 | P.M. whole day, From 4.30 A.M., till 11, an eddy set along the south 
shore to the westward. About | P.M, it in to run to the east- 
6.15 | P.M. ward, and continued to do so the rest of the day. From 6,15 P.M, 
till 7.10, the water neither rose nor fell by the shore. 
! 
Sept. 1+! 6.40 AM.| The stream constantly running to the eastward in mid-channel. 
An eddy setting to the westward close to the south shore till near 
0.50 | P.M. noon. At! P.M. it again set to the eastward and continued to do 


so till dark, 
¥ It was full moon at 6.54 A.M. this day, 


No eddy nor slack was observed this day, the wind being strong 
from the westward, The current constantly setting fast to the east. 
ward; at about 8 A.M. not less then four miles per hour. 


This tide, by the mark on the rovks, rose two inches above that 
of the preceding evening, being also the highest of any we observed. 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 337 


‘From these ob servations it would appear that the regular stream of flood- 
tide sets to the eastward, and that of the ebb to the westward, in this Strait; 
though, at this season, the latter is not always perceptible, on account of the 
rapid current permanently running against it in an easterly direction.” 


After towing Mr. Crozier to the shore, under circumstances of consi- 
derable danger to that gentleman’s party in their little boat, Mr. Ross imme- 
diately proceeded in execution of the service with which he was charged, 
and landing a little to the northward of Cape Ossory, observed the latitude 
to be 69° 43' 30”. He then rowed along the shore to the northward, passing 
one or two bays and several small islands, and landed in the evening upon a 
rugged islet, a quarter of a mile long, from whence he had the passage 
directly open between Ormond Island and the northern shore, and after- 
wards perceived an island lying towards its western opening, which had 
before been noticed from the opposite side. The rocks along this coast 
were found to be composed of greyish gneiss, and on some of the islands 
numerous masses of reddish granite also occurred, lying detached upon the 
surface. On the small islet adjoining Cape Ossory, Mr. Ross noticed a 
broad vein of dark-coloured hornblende, imbedded in the gneiss; and a 
similar structure presented itself near a small bay just to the northward of 
it, the vein being here about thirty yards wide, forty or fifty feet high, and 
reaching as far under water as could be distinguished. The appearance of 
this, at a short distance, was not unlike that of a high pile of coal, and from 
the direction it took, it seemed to be a continuation of the vein before 
noticed, 

Mr. Ross’s report, of which I have here given a brief abstract, contained 
also a variety of useful angles, observations, and other hydrographical ma- 
terials, by which the whole of this part of the coast has been laid down on 
the chart. 


LIEUTENANT HOPPNER’S REPORT. 


‘“ Landing on Amherst Island at five A.M. on the 6th, we hauled the boat 
on shore, and proceeded with three days’ provisions towards the western end 
of the passage dividing the island from the main-land., The tide being out, 
we experienced some difficulty in reaching the firm ice in the centre of the 
2x 


1822, 
Sept. 


ee ae era 


Se 


Mie =ccileiarer --ancenehpaabccaipnrd arb tae tox 
Se eg aces 


1822, 


338 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


passage ; but having at length, by the assistance of a plank, crossed the 


wr~ loose pieces near the shore, we found the “ young ice ” connecting the rest 


7th. 


sufficiently strong to enable us to pass over it with ease, and we arrived on 
the main-land about one P.M. At two we recommenced our walk along- 
shore to the westward ; and as the extreme point of land seen from the ships 
did not seem to be more than cight miles distant, and the ground was good 
for travelling, I determined to leave our knapsacks and other baggage be- 
hind, and was in hopes of being thus enabled to obtain a clear view round 
the point before sun-set, and of returning to our tent at night. In this ex- 
pectation, however, I was altogether disappointed ; for after three hours’ 
hard walking, we found the point was still at least five or six miles from us, 
which obliged me to give up the attempt, and to return to the tent for the 
night. 

‘* The distance to the western extreme being greater than I could now 
hope to travel in the time to which I was limited by my instructions, [ 
ascended a high hill at five A.M. on the 7th to obtain a view of the Strait. 
The horizon, however, was so obscured by fog that we could only at inter- 
vals see the tops of the northern hills. Our prospect to the westward was 
also very limited, but as far as could be discerned, the ice appeared per- 
fectly close and composed of high hummocks with a few heavy floe-pieces. 
Proceeding on our return at eight o'clock, we reached Amherst Island by 
noon, the young ice having every where become so firm that we might easily 
have returned to the ships upon it, without the assistance of a plank. The 
fog having now cleared away, gave us a good view from the west end of the 
island, where we could perceive that no land was visible for three or four 
points of the compass between the north and south shores of the Strait. In 
this space nothing was to be seen but compact heavy ice, with a white haze 
hanging over the horizon to the westward. Being anxious to examine also 
the state of the ice on the north side of the island, I left the party, when two 
miles short of the boat, and walked to a high ridge on that side, from which 
I perceived a remarkable bluff* on the north shore of the Strait, appearing 
to be detached from the other land, but this my position did not enable me 
to determine. 

** I found the ice on the north side of the island perfectly close and inuch 
heavier than on the opposite shore, being generally composed of large floc- 


* Afterwards called by Lieutenant Reid, Care Hattrowz.r. 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 339 


pieces. This land, from abreast the west end of Amherst Island, changes 
its aspect very much, the hills becoming less rugged to the westward, and 
having at their foot a sloping plain covered with fine pasturage, extending 
in one place four or five miles towards the sea. On this plain we passed 
several circles of stones, placed by the Esquimaux, and others set up ina 
similar manner to those before observed in different parts of the coast. 
These did not bear the marks of having been recently visited ; but the tracks 
of deer were so numerous, and the aspect of the country so favourable for 
a summer residence, that it appeared a likely place for the Esquimaux to 
resort to occasionally during that season.” 


The result of our late endeavours, necessarily cramped as they had been, 
was to confirm, in the most satisfactory manner, the conviction that we were 
now in the only passage leading to the westward that existed in this neigh- 
bourhood. There was, and indeed still is, reason to believe, from the 
information of the Esquimaux, that Cockburn Island extends two degrees to 
the jnorthward and very considerably to the eastward of this Strait. To 
have abandoned without further trial the most promising place, as respects 
the North-West Passage, that the most sanguine mind could hope to dis- 
cover, upon the chance of saving time by pursuing a circuitous route of 
perhaps three or four hundred miles of unknown coast, and of finding a 
more navigable passage two degrees farther north, I should have considered 
an unjustifiable departure from the plain tenor of my instructions, if not a 
direct abandonment of the cause in which we were engaged. Notwithstand- 
ing, therefore, the present unpromising appearance of the ice, I had no 
alternative left me but patiently to await its disruption, and instantly to avail 
myself of any alteration that nature might yet effect in our favour. 


en rs 
ae ae 


w= = 


1822. 
Sept. 


340 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


CHAPTER XII. 


A JOURNEY PERFORMED ALONG THE SOUTH SHORE OF COCKRURN ISLAND—CONFIR- 
MATION OF AN OUTLET TO THE POLAR SEA——PARTIAL DISRUPTION OF THE OLD 
ICE, AND FORMATION OF NEW--RETURN THROUGH THE NARROWS TO THE EAST- 
WARD— PROCEED TO EXAMINE THE COAST TO THE NORTH-EASTWARD—FURY’S 
ANCHOR BROKEN-——-STAND OVER TO IGLOOLIK TO LOOK FOR WINTER-QUARTERS— 
EXCURSION TO THE HEAD OF QUILLIAM CREEK-——SHIPS FORCED TO THE WESTWARD 
BY GALES OF WIND-——A CANAL SAWED THROUGH THE ICE, AND THE SHIPS SECURED 
IN THEIR WINTER STATION—CONTINUED VISITS OF THE ESQUIMAUX, AND ARRIVAL 
OF SOME OF THE WINTER-ISLAND TRIBE—-PROPOSED PLAN OF OPERATIONS IN THE 
ENSUING SPRING. 


A Licut air springing up from the eastward on the morning of the 8th, we 


wr~ tvok advantage of it to run up to the margin of the fixed ice, which was now 


Sun, 8, 


perhaps half a mile farther to the westward, in consequence of small picces 
being occasionally detached from it, than it had been when we tacked off it 
ten days before. We here made fast nearly in a line between Amherst and 
Liddon Islands, though much nearer to the former, and in fifty-eight fathoms, 
on a soft muddy bottom. Though the easterly wind continued, the weather, 
which had. been foggy in the morning, cleared up after noon and a beautiful 
day succeeded. At seven P.M., some water brought up from thirty fathoms’ 
depth was at the temperature of 272°, and some from fifty-five fathoms at 27}°; 
that at the surface being 272°, and of the air 25$°, the whole being taken by 
the same thermometer. We noticed, however, a remarkable difference in the 
temperature of the surface-water on the two sides of the ship, that drawn on 
the starboard side being, as above stated, at 27#°, and on the larboard 30° 
and 304° the whole afternoon. The difference was perhaps on this occasion 
to be attributed to the sun being more on the larboard side than on the other; 


oo nn 


OF A NORTH WEST PASSAGE. 34] 


but nearly the same thing occurred on the 11th, when the reverse was the 
case with respect to the sun. In every instance the water was drawn in the 
same bucket, and from within a foot of the ship’s bends; and to whatever 
cause it was to be attributed, it shews in how great a degree the tempera- 
ture of the surface-water may be affected by some local and perhaps trivial 
circumstance. A great number of seals were lying on the ice during the 
day, and three swans were observed flying to the south-eastward. 

At daylight on the 9th, I sent Mr. Ross on shore to Amherst Island with 
two men, and fuimished with a tent and provisions, for the purpose of regis- 
tering the rise and fall of the tides, while observations were at the same time 
made upon the stream or current in the offing. At eight A.M. the tempera- 
ture of the sea-water at the surface was . .  .  . 7 


At thirty fathoms’ depth . ; ‘ ‘ . 274 
At fifty-five ,, ie ; ‘ ‘ - . 27k 
Air in the shade F ‘ ; . ‘ : ; : 28 


Another clear and uncommonly beautiful day, such as we had scarcely expe- 
rienced during the whole summer, gave us hopes of the season being some- 
what lengthened by a mild autumn. In the evening we thought we could 
perceive the sun glittering ona lane of water towards the western end of 
the Strait, which might perhaps have been opened by the eastern breeze 
now blowing. Every thing however remained unmoved on our side, and a 
great quantity of young ice formed on the sea outside of us, so that it was 
scarcely practicable to get a boat out for trying the current. The pools on 
the floes were now also so hardiy frozen, that skating and sliding were going 
on upon them the whole day, though buc a week before it had been dan- 
gerous to venture upon them. 

This latter circumstance, together with the fineness of the weather and 
the tempting appearance of the shore of Cockburn Island, which seemed 
better calculated for travelling than any that we had seen, combined to 
induce me to despatch another party to the westward, with the hope of 
increasing, by the only means within our reach, our knowledge of the lands 
and sea in that direction. Lieutenant Reid and Mr. Bushnan were once 
more selected for that service to be accompanied by cight men, a large 
number being preferred, because by this means only is it practicable to 
accomplish a tolerably long journey, especially on account of the additional 
weight of warm clothing which the present advanced state of the scason 


Mon. 9. 


peo SE rs 
5 Re ng ae. Sh Dae ae NE URNS = 


SERS at gn a 


— 


way Terme ee . 2 
ees inal Saath caine ane 


Tues, 10. 


Wed. 11. 


342 SECOND VOYAGE FOR. THE DISCOVERY 


rendered indispensable. Lieutenant Reid was furnished with six days’ 
provisions, and directed to land where most practicable on the northern 
shore, and thence to pursue his journcy to the westward as far as his re- 
sources would admit, gaining all possible information that might be useful or 
interesting. Every arrangement being made, the party was held in readiness 
to leave the ships at daylight the following morning. 

Our travellers were favoured by another summer’s day on the 10th, nota 
breath of wind stirring, and the atmosphere being extremely clear and free 
from clouds. Mr. Henderson being sent to Amherst Island to examine the ice 
along its :.orthern shore, where we first hoped to see some alteration, reported 
on his return, that he had observed a crack extending from the western end 
of the island across towards the northern shore of the Strait, which we 
hoped might form a new line of separation just about to take place. In the 
evening two of Lieutenant Reid’s party returned on board with a note, 
informing me that one of the men being taken ill, that officer had judged 
it prudent immediately to send him back with one of his shipmates to take 
care of him. 

At four P.M, the temperature of the sea-water at the surface was . 29° 

At 20 fathoms’depth . . 28} 


» 30 ” ” 6 284 

» 40 ” ” a) 28 

» 55 yy ” or 8 28 
Air iu the shade . . : . F » . 82h 


the whole being taken by the same mercurial thermometer. The young ice 
increased very considerably in consequence of the calm weather and the 
unruffled smoothness of the sea, and several sheets of it drifting in towards 
the floe completely froze the ships in for the time, our rudders being im- 
moveably set fast. This night was one of the clearest 1 ever saw, the hea- 
venly bodies shining with uncommon brilliancy, and was succeeded on the 
11th by another lovely day, similar to the three preceding ones. The tem- 
perature of the sea-water at the surface was 
at 10 A.M. at 7.30 P.M. 
28}... 888 
At 20 fathoms’ depth 283 . . . 28} 


» 30 ” ” 28 o «© « @ 
» 40 ” ” 28 « © » 98 
» 55, ” 2t . .. 8 


Air in the shade 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASS AGE, 343 


In the morning experiments, however, the temperature of the surface, as ie 
given above, was taken on the starboard side, on which a bright sun had Sec 
been shining for several hours; whereas, on the larboard or shady side the 

water was at the temperature of 30°, or a degree and a quarter warmer. A 

party of the Hecla’s people, sent by Captain Lyon to Amherst Island, were 
fortunate in killing a deer. 

An easterly breeze, though a very light one, served considerably to Thur. 12. 
widen the crack in the ice before seen to the westward; and, as the floe 
had certainly not moved in our neighbourhood, a hope was excited that 
there must be some room to the westward to have allowed a separation to 
take place. We therefore anxiously looked for a strong easterly wind, as the 
most probable means of at length clearing a passage through the Strait. 

The weather continued remarkably mild and pleasant, and some thawing: 
was going on during the day. Our hunting parties were again sent on shore 
to the island, but without success. 

Just before daylight on the 13th the floe suddenly broke between the two Frid. 13. 
ships, and we were for some time in hopes that a general change was 
about to take place in our favour, as we could soon after perceive a good 
deal of open water immediately to the westward of the ice to which the 
ships were attached. We found, however, as the day broke, that no 
alteration had taken place near us but the separation of a considerable 
mass near the island, leaving no passage whatever into the open water 
seen beyond. The Hecla, happening to be fast to the broken mass, was 
obliged to make all sail, to stem a current that carried her with it some dis- 
tance to the eastward. So far however was this current from being percep- 
tible on or near the surface that, on making several trials, a superficial 
set, occasioned by an easterly breeze, was uniformly found in an opposite 
direction. 

The latitude of our present station was 69° 48’ 10”; the longitude, by chro- 
nometers, 83° 29' 27”; the variation of the magnetic needle 89° 18’ 19"; and 
the dip, as obtained by Mr. Fisher, 88° 21’ 21". The view of the Strait from 
this position was calculated to impress us with the idea of its being a mag- 
nificent passage into the Polar Sea, especially on one of the clear and cloud- 
less days which we had lately enjoyed. One of the most striking features 
of this truly polar landscape is that which is presented by the snow-capped 
mountains of Cockburn Island, to the north-west of the ships, the highest 
of which Mr, Fisher determined, by accurate trigonometrical measurement, 


1822, 


Sept. 
wee 


344 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


to be one thousand four hundred and forty-seven feet above ‘<> 'cvel ef the 
sea. The tops of these mountains have a smoothly-rounded «cdine ; and as 
they were covered with snow for about one-fourth downwards from their 
summits as early as the 18th of August, when we first discovered them from 
the narrows, it is probable that they had been so during the whole summer. 
To the eastward of these the land becomes much more rugged though con- 
siderably lower; and in every part there appeared to be a space of shelving 
ground next the sea, like that over which Lieutenant Reid was_now pur- 
suing his journey. : 

The appearance of Amherst Island also is remarkable on account of the 
materials of which it is composed, which, unless covered with snow, pre- 
sent an aspect singularly dark, and affording a striking contrast with the 
surrounding lands. It was curious indeed to observe that, as if determined 
io preserve this singularity, the snow was always first dissolved upon this 
island, which, even on some very cold days, contrived to throw off its fleecy 
mantle when no other shore was uncovered, which circumstance may per- 
haps be in part attributed to the colour as well as to the other qualities of 
the rocks. The geological character of Amherst Island, which I had not 
myself an opportunity of visiting, differs from any we have hitherto met 
with. I am happy therefore in availing myself of the following extracts 
from the journals of Captain Lyon and Mr. Edwards, who walked over 
various parts of the island, and have been kind enough to furnish me with 
these notices. 


“The beach on which we landed,” says Captain Lyon, ‘“ was flat, and 
entirely covered with minute scales of black slate, and the whole of the 
northern side of the island that I visited consists of the same substance, 
lying in lamine which are loose and easily detached, those near the surface 
being for the most part curiously fluted, or having small rounded ridges of a 
finger’s breadth running in parallel lines across them. From the appearance 
of the ground where some broad chasms lay open, one of the seamen who 
accompanied me, and had been brought up in a coal country, was led to 
observe that he had no doubt of that mineral existing here, a short distance 
below the surface ; but, after a narrow search, no pieces could be discovered. 
Towards the centre of the island we found it assume a different aspect, be- 
yond a line that may be supposed to intersect it from east to west. The south- 
ern half was covered in many places with small amorphous masses of clay and 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 345 


limestone, and some low swampy places were thinly clothed with shrivelled 
grass and moss ; while on the northern or slaty side we could perceive no 
signs of vegetation. On coasting the beach to return to the boat, we passed 
the remains of two Esquimaux circles of stones apparently long forsaken, as 
no bones were found near them, and they were partly buried in the slaty 
beach. 

‘“‘ Near the place at which Mr. Ross was stationed to observe the tides, I 
found a most fairy-like grotto in a small cliff of black and rugged slate, 
through which the water as it oozed had formed most brilliant icy stalactites, 
five or six feet in length. These hung across the front of the cave in a 
variety of fanciful forms over a small basin, which was frozen as smooth as 
the most polished mirror. The sun shone full but powerless on the silvery 
icicles, which formed a brilliant contrast to the deep cbon shade of the 
cave behind them. The whole appearance of this little spot was of the 
most delicate and novel description, and I felt that neither by pen nor pencil 
could I do it justice. 

“The base of Amherst Island,” Mr. Edwards observes, “is an argilla- 
ceous schist of various qualities, from a very fine and soft to a compact 
coarse variety, which answers to the greywacke schist of geologists. 
The kinds alternate with each other, and those of intermediate quality 
are remarkable for having the surfaces of the lamine divided into pa- 
rallel longitudinal beds, by narrow but deeply impressed lines, such as may 
be seen in very coarse pastry. In some specimens these lines are inter- 
sected by others at right angles, forming small quadrilateral and elliptic ele- 
vations. One side only of the lamine, in some varicties, is so impressed, 
while in others both sides are similar; in this latter case the lines on one 
side coincide with those on the other. Flat circular depressions are also 
seen occasionally upon the surface, but I did not notice any organic remains. 

‘¢ The more elevated ridges of the island are formed of the disintegrating 
remains of a super-incumbent stratum of compact limestone. It is hard and 
sonorous, internally of a dark greyish blue colour; externally, where ex- 
posed to air or moisture, deeply ferruginous. It does not burn into quick 
lime, but contains minute veins of calc-spar, and corresponds with the calc 
of Kirwan. Worn blocks of sandstone, granite, gneiss, and other quartzose 
rocks, are scattered over the. surface of the island.”’ 

The observations made by Mr. Ross upon the tides, together with those 
upon the set of the stream in the offing, are comprised in the following 
Table :— 2Y¥ 


1822. 


Sept. 
ww 


| Ca ae E E C S SSR  ES  EE SS 


Tide-Table at Amnenst IsLanp. 


Day. | Time, he tho | Set of the Stream inthe Offing. Wind 
OER, | [se ea ee eRe See eee ASE Teg itt iat very 
A.M. : 2 A. 1. Fory’s Ob- {Rate per'| Hecla’s Ob- [Rat light 
182. H. M. | : PM. Rose. | Fell. | Hour. | P.M # | sorvatioue. He perl corvations, Heer. | | from 
Vo. ries = fi impr. in CU a! oc Ck ee Soy ere 
Sept. | from 4 13 E A.M, South t | ee ae 8 «» || North, 
to -AM. » «| 2.0 i» S.W. rs 
8,20 j ” do, 1 | soe ++ |) East 
re do, I | Westward i | 
|} 8,20 | F 9” do. I | do, 
to eo oe a PROP. wf ” S.b.W. t | none. 
10.30 | ” none, | none. a 
9th, | | ” none, | none, | 
| 10,30 A.M. noon — none, ie none, so Sy 
| 
| to ’ 2.55 PM. SW, i N.W. 4 | 
] 5 P.M. | 2 rp West. i N.W. 4 | 
\ , , . | 
|| 5 to \ ; ! ” W.N.W. ? | none. 
PM. Station! ; | 
| 5.30 J Station ary. | ‘ ESE. ‘ | none. | 
| 5.30 ie E i. WN. | of | Wen. | 3 | 
| | | 
| to 7.34 | - S.W. t | ; j Calm, 
} 2 uM. | . Wibn. | . ee 
| 2to '\ AM letation ary | ‘ PAM. Ws - W. | i mele, 
9.1 lJ | 5 ; S.W.b.W. | j | North. 
| | | 6 %9 do, \ | 
| 2.15 | | 7 - do. j NW. 
| to A.M, e F 6.15 || 8 9 do, i e | ° | 
| 10 | 9 * S.W. } | 
| | | 10 P wis. | 4 
| lo ] AM, i a ” none, e | 
10th, to J 0, los ; Noon — SW, | | 
| hoon i | 1,10 PM, West. ) 
noon 2 ” S.W, } | 
to | l ee tg | 7 sf do. ib 
6.25 iJ P.M. | 4.15 ” N.W, } 
1,25 N V.M. | 5 ty do, : 
to | 6.114 é ” W.N.W. i 
J N. E. } 


ism 


water stiit rising. 


SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY. 347 


On the 14th, while an easterly breeze continued, the water increased 
very much in breadth to the westward of the fixed floe to which we were 
attached ; several lanes opening out, and leaving in some places a channel 
not less than three miles in width. At two P.M. the wind, suddenly shifting 
to the westward, closed up every open space in the course of a few hours, 
leaving not a drop of water in sight from the masthead in that direction. 
To this however we had no objection; for being now certain that the ice was at 
liberty to move in the western part of the Strait, we felt confident that if once 
our present narrow barrier were also detached, the ordinary changes of wind 
and tide would inevitably afford us opportunities of making progress. When 
a body of ice has once broken from the land and found some room to move 
about, the case is scldom a hopeless one ; but the kind of hermetical-scaling 
which we had lately witnessed leaves, while it lasts, no resource but pa- 
tience, and watchfulness. The westerly wind was accompanied by fine 
snow which continued during the night, rendering the weather extremely 
thick, and our situation consequently very precarious should the ice give 
way during the hours of darkness. 

The recent separation of the ice to the westward, while it kept alive our 
hopes of soon proceeding on our way, made us also at this moment some- 
what apprehensive lest Lieutenant Reid and his party might, in their return 
to the ships, be caught upon it while it was adrift, and escape our observa- 
tion during the thick weather or in the night. It was therefore with great 
satisfaction that, at four P.M, on the 15th, we discovered our travellers upon 
the ice. A fresh party being despatched to meet and to relieve them of their 
knapsacks, Lieutenant itcid arrived safely on board at seven P.M., having 
by a quick and most satisfactory journey, ascertained the immediate junction 
of the Strait of the Fury and Hecla with the Polar Sea, Lieutenant Reid's 
account, which is here subjoined, was accompanied by an accurate plan of 
the Strait, drawn by Mr. Bushnan, and constructed by a series of triangles 
extending considerably to the eastward of the Narrows, and thence carried 
on to Igloolik. 


LIEUTENANT REID’S ACCOUNT, 
* At daylight on the 10th, the weather being remarkably fine, I left the 


Fury with my party, and on our journey towards the land found the walking 
aY9 


1822, 
Sept. 
wow 
Sat. 14. 


Sun, 15. 


10, 


— 


1822, 


Sept. 


348 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


extremely good, the late frost having filled up all the holes and pools upon 
the ice. After the first four miles the character of the ice changed from the 
rough and ‘hummocky ’ kind to a smooth level floe, and this continued the 
whole way to the land, except that in its immediate neighbourhood it was 
much broken up and detached ; which occasioned us much difficulty and 
some wetting in getting to the beach. One of the Hecla’s men having been 
taken ill about this time I determined to send him back to the ships without 
delay, and directed one of his shipmates to accompany and take care of 
him. This reduction of our number considerably increasing the loads of the 
rest of the party, one day’s provision was deposited at the landing-place, 
and with the remainder we set out to the westward. 

“« From one till four P.M. we walked nine miles over excellent ground for 
travelling, and then obtained sights for the chronometer, giving the longitude 
83° 58’ 30"; after which we again moved forward, and having advanced six 
miles in a direction a little to the northward of west, halted and pitched the 
tent for the night. The land over which we had this day travelled is prin- 
cipally composed of sandstone, with here and there a piece of granite. In 
the course of the day we passed the stones of an Esquimaux summer 
habitation, arranged as usual in a circular form, but it did not appear of 
recent date. The ice in the Strait still presented the same unbroken sur- 
face as that seen from the ships, except quite close in-shore, where it was 
detached by the action of the tides. We also observed a few narrow lanes of 
water here and there running into the floc, but they extended only a short 
distance from the land. 

«* At five A.M. on the llth, we re-commenced our walk to the westward, 
and at seven came to a ravine with a rapid run of water, which we crossed 
after a little detention, and stopped to breakfast one mile to the westward of 
it. Again proceeding at nine o’clock, we continued our walk till noon, 
when we halted to obtain the meridian altitude, which gave the latitude 
70° 00' 05", and soon after setting forward again, pitched our tent for the 
night at half-past six P.M, our day’s journey being estimated at thirteen miles 
ina W.IN. direction. We could here perceive that the opposite or main- 
land gradually trended to the southward, leaving a broad entrance into the 
Western Sea, though covered with even and apparently unbroken ice, The 
weather being clear afforded us an extensive prospect to the westward, and 
we could now perceive that a bluff near the north shore, which had before 
appeared insviar, formed in reality the northern point of the entrance, and 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 349 


I named it Cape HatLowE 1, out of respect to Vice-ApmiraL Sir BENJAMIN 
HattowELt. ‘This head-land was joined to Cockburn Island by a piece of 
low land not visible at any great distance, and receding considerably so as 
to form a fine bay, which [ named after Captain Witi1am Autrince, of the 
Royal Navy. To the southward of Cape Hallowell are several small rocky 
islets, and near these, as well as in every other part of the entrance of the 
Strait, the ice presented the same unbroken appearance as before. 

“ At half-past five A.M. on the 12th, we again set forward, and continuing 
our walk till nine o’clock, pitched the tent upon a rising ground, from 
whence we commanded a good view around us, and being near the entrance 
of an inlet running up to the north-eastward, The opening of the Strait 
into the Polar Sea was now so decided, that I considered the principal 
object of my journey accomplished ; but being desirous of obtaining obser- 
vations at this spot, and the weather being cloudy, I determined on remain- 
ing a few hours for that purpose. In the mean time Mr. Bushnan and 
myself walked up the banks of the inlet, which I named after my friend 
Mr. Tuomas Wuyrte, and found it to extend five or six miles in a north-east 
direction, its general breadth being from a mile to a mile and a half, At 
the head of the inlet we found two ravines running into it, and the vegeta- 
tion was here more abundant than any I had seen during the voyage. We 
saw also the remains of two Esquimaux huts, which were old and appeared 
to have been winter habitations. 

“ The sky being still clouded on the morning of the 13th, we set out on 
our return to the eastward, from which quarter the wind soon after freshened 
up with constant snow and sleet. At one P.M. on the 14th, we reached our 
landing-place, when we found that a great alteration had taken place in the 
state of the ice, there being now a considerable lane of water running off in 
the direction of the ships, while near the shore some pressure appeared to 
have taken place. On the following day, when the snow ceased falling for 
a short time, a still greater change was perceptible, there being in-shore a 
space of clear water extending three miles from cast to west, and more nu- 
merous marks than before of recent pressure, Upon the whole, the change 
in the state of the ice since our outward journey was very striking, and 
seemed to afford a hope that the passage of the ships miglit still be favoured 
by some more extensive movement, 

* At half-past cleven A.M., the tide being out so as to favour our getting 


1822, 


15. 


Mon. 16, 


350 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


upon the ice, we set out for the ships, steering by a pocket-compass, as the 
weather was too thick to allow us to see them. Passing several ‘ lanes’ of 
water, one of them of considerable breadth, and observing several places in 
which the ice had been thrown up by pressure, we came, at half-past one 
P.M. to a broad lane, with the ice in motion on the opposite side. As 
the direction of the ships was still uncertain, we halted here to dine, and 
obtaining a sight of them soon after, in a clearer interval, again set out. At 
four, the Fury made the signal of having discovered us, and at seven 
o'clock, being met by a fresh party, we arrived on board.” 

Mr. Bushnan remarked, in the course of this journey, that though in 
some places, and particularly at the head of Whyte Inlet, the vegetation was 
remarkably abundant, yet the plants were singularly backward and dwartish, 
and flowers rare; which remark was also made by most of our other tra- 
vellers. The Esquimaux huts at the head of Wivte Inlet, Mr. Bushnan 
describes as being one round, and the other rectangular; the latter, which 
was the largest, being seven feet in length, and five in breadth. They were 
made with large slabs of sandstone, and had every appearance of having 
been winter residencés, 


The weather continuing very thick with small snow, and there being now 
every reason to suppose a final disruption of the fixed ice at hand, I deter- 
mined to provide against the danger to which, at night, this long-wished-for 
event would expose the ships, by adopting a plan that had often before oc- 
curred to me, as likely to prove beneticial in unknown and critical navigation 
such as this. This was nothing more than the establishment of a temporary 
light-house on shore during the night, which, in case of our getting adrift, 
would, together with the soundings, aflord us that seeurity which the slug- 
gish traversing of the compasses otherwise rendered exuemely doubtful. 
For this purpose, two steady men, provided with a tent and blankets, were 
landed on the east point of Amlierst Island at sunset, to keep up some 
bright lights during the cight hours of darkness, and to be sent for at daylight 
inthe morning. On the 16th the north-west wind continued, but no alteration 
whatever took place in the ice. Small snow was almost constantly falling 
during the day, which once more, and permanently for the winter, as it 
afterwards proved, covered those paris of the land that the late fine weather 


» 


Nears 


Sel SR aan i RS ne ae =p alii ip oi Magn Se eer RST eR ns 


ey 
a 


— i -- ee 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 351 


had partially cleared. A number of seals were seen upon the ice, and these 1822. 
were all the animals we noticed about this time. Our light-house was again ~~ 


established at sunset. 


On the 17th, the wind freshened almost to a gale from the north-west, with Tues.t . 


thicker and more constant snow than before. The thermometer fell to 164° 
at six A.M., rose no higher than 20° in the course of the day, and got down 
to 12° at night, so that the young ice began now to form about us in great 
quantities. The danger of our being seriously hampered, should the ice 
come adrift in the night, being much increased by this new annoyance, 
which we well knew to be the certain symptom of approaching winter, it 
became absolutely necessary to move somewhere out of the way. We there- 
fore cast off and stood a little within the east point of Amherst Island, where 
a good birth was found along-side another floc of land-ice, and sheltered by 
the island from any thing coming up the Strait from the westward. The 
Fury was set fast by the young ice in the course of the night, which proved 
clearer than was expected, with a faint appearance of the Aurora Borealis in 
the N.N.W. quarter. 

Appearances had now become so much against our making any further 
progress this season, as to render it a matter of very serious consideration 
whether we ought to risk being shut up during the winter, in the middle of 
the Strait, where, from whatever cause it might proceed, the last year’s ice was 
not yet wholly detached from the shores ; and where a fresh formation had 
already commenced, which there was but too much reason to believe would 
prove a permanent one. It has been seen by what gradual steps our informa- 
tion was obtained respecting the Strait now before us, how frequent were the 
delays, and how insurmountable the obstacles we had to encounter; and, 
though no account, however detailed, can convey an adequate idea of: the 
anxiety with which each scrap of information was sought after and received, 
or the daily and hourly mortification attendant on cach fresh delay, the fore- 
going narrative is, perhaps, sufficient to shew that it was not without consider- 
able mental solicitude, as well as physical exertion, that we had effected even 
thus far our passage to the westward. In proportion to the labour and disap- 
pointments which the attainment of this object had cost us, was the reluc- 
tance I felt in admitting even a thought of its abandonment ; and as leng as 
the weather continued open, I always ventured to cherish a belief that some 
favourable alteration might yet occur. Now, however, that the frost was 
hourly at work in re-connecting, by numberless links, the “ older” masses, 


1822. 
Sept. 
Pw 


352 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


whose partial separation had lately excited our hopes, it seemed scarcely 
reasonable any longer to entertain an expectation of such a change as could 
essentially promote our ultimate object. Had we, indeed, succeeded in 
getting fairly through the Strait, and then found no more than the ordinary 
obstacles of these seas to contend with, I could not have had a moment's 
hesitation in continuing to push on to the last hour of the navigable season ; 
taking our chance, as usual, of then finding a place of security for our win- 
ter-quarters. But the prospect now before us offering no such encourage- 
ment, it appeared more prudent to regulate our proceedings according to 
existing circumstances, and rather to moderate our views for the present, 
than by an ill-timed perseverance to interfere with our hopes for the future. 

It would undoubtedly have been interesting at this period of the voyage, to 
have known whether the unfavourable state of the ice during the late sun- 
mer was merely the result of an unusually bad season, or the effect of some 
more permanent and local cause, rendering the navigation of this passage 
equally impracticable in the general average of years. Without however at 
present entering into that question, which it would require the experience of 
several seasons to determine, and to which I shall have some future occasion 
to reveri, it is now only necessary to remark that in whatsoever state the ice 
might here be found in the ensuing summer, there appeared no reason for 
supposing our object would be furthered by wintering in the middle of the 
Strait ; because its eastern entrance being certainly the first to be cleared, it 
wouid be an easy matter to regain our present advanced position in a few 
hours after that clearance should take place. On the other hand, supposing 
the ice to remain unbroken till the same period next season, (and it was not 
easy to get over the impression that what had happened one year would in all 
probability happen the next,) our wintering in the Strait involved the cer- 
tainty of being frozen up for eleven months,—a sickening prospect under 
any circumstances, but in the present instance probably fatal to our best hopes 
and expectations. 

With the conviction of these unpleasant truths reluctantly forced upon my 
mind, I considered it my duty to assist my own judgment at this crisis by 
calling fur the opinions of the senior officers of the Expedition. With this 
view therefore I addressed aletter to Captain Lyon and Lieutenants Hoppner 
and Nias respectively, directing their attention to the principal circumstances 
of our present situation, and requesting their advice as to the measures most 
proper to be pursued for the successful prosecution of our enterprise. 


cely 
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by 
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ost 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 353 


The officers agreeing with me in opinion as to the expediency of our not eae 

risking a detention in the Strait during the winter, I determined, on the an 
grounds before detailed, no longer to postpone our departure, if indeed, as Thur. 19. 
there was some reason to think, it had not already been delayed too long. I 
therefore directed a memorandum to be read on board each ship, acquainting 
the officers and men with my views as above stated, and also expressing my 
intention to employ whatever time might yet remain of the present season, in 
the examination of the coast of Cockburn Island to the northward and eastward. 
In the event of making little progress in that direction, I proposed looking 
out for some situation in the neighbourhood of Igloolik that might afford se- 
curity to the ships during the winter, and by ensuring an early release in the 
spring, allow us at least the liberty of choosing to what part of the coast our 
efforts should then be directed sladly availed myself of this opportunity 
to offer my best thanks so justly cue to the officers and men under my com- 
mand, for their zealous and unremitted exertions during the two seasons that 
had passed ; and it was scarcely necessary to remind the ships’ companies of 
the necessity of continuing to the last those praiseworthy efforts, on which 
the ultimate accomplishment of our enterprise might still depend. 

The young ice had now formed so thick about the Fury, that it became 
rather doubtful whether we should get her out without an increase of wind to 
assist in extricating her, or adecrease of cold. Atten A.M. however we be- 
gan to attempt it, but by noon had not moved the ship more than half her own 
length. As soon as we had reached the outer point of the floe, in a bay of 
which we had been lying, we had no longer the means of applying a force 
from without and, if alone, should therefore have been helpless at least for a 
time. The Hecla however being fortunately unencumbered, in consequence 
of having lain in a less sheltered place, sent her boats with a hawser to the 
margin of the young ice ; and ours being carried to meet it by men walking 
upon planks at considerable risk of going through, she at length succeeded 
in pulling us out ; and getting into clear water or rather into less tough ice, at 
three P.M. we shaped a course to the eastward, At seven o'clock, it being too 
late to run through the narrows, we anchored for the night in ten fathoms, 
near the east end of Liddon Island, where we lay without disturbance. 

Although the thermometer remained at 11° most of the night, little or no Tues. 20. 
young ice had. formed about the ships by daylight on the following morning. 

This circumstance, which it may be practically useful to explain, arose from 
the newly-formed sheets immediately drifting away from the land, on which 
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TEST TARGET (MT 3) 
22 Wes Wes 


354 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


account, though the freezing process is constaitly going on, a weather shore 
is frequently the clearest, when no other part of the sea is free from young 
ice. The latter part of this fact became evident soon after our getting under 
way, the whole of the night’s formation of ice having been drifted down and 
stopped at the narrows; producing so impenetrable a barrier that, at seven 
A.M., the Fury was altogether stopped by it, and the Hecla coming up astern, 
in half an hour afterwards. Boats were immediately got under the bows, 


_and every other means resorted to that we could devise, to break the young 


ice ahead of the ships, but sometimes to no purpose for two hours together. 
The ice was just in that state in which there is no such thing as operating 
upon it ; too thick to allow a ship to be forced through it, too tough for regu- 
lar sawing, and yet dangerous for men to walk upon. To get a boat her own 
length through it would occupy a dozen men a quarter of an hour, and that 
by standing in the water the whole time, and after all without being able to 
make a channel for the ship. When a vessel is thus stopped, provided the ob- 
stacle does not exceed a certain strength, and the wind is favourable at the 
time, there is nothing so effectual in forcing her ahead as what is technically 
called ‘‘ sallying,” which consists in the men suddenly running from side to 
side of the deck, thus causing the ship to roll and relieve herself from the 
friction and adhesion of the young ice against her bends. It is astonishing 
indeed to see how immediately a progressive motion is sometimes thus im- 
parted to aship, when all other and more laborious means have failed in ad- 
vancing her a single inch. 

While thus employed during the forenoon, we began to perccive about 
half-past ten that the ships were driving back with a tide setting from the 
eastward, which gradually increased in strength, and occasioned us to lose 
one or two miles of ground while struggling to extricate the ships from the 
ice. At three P.M. we at length got clear, and in passing Cape Ossory at 
five found the tide slack, it being now low water by the shore. From this 
concluding observation on the tides in this part of the Strait of the Fury 
and Hecla, as well as from all our preceding remarks, and especially the 
more regular ones of Mr. Crozier already given, I believe there can be 
little doubt that the flood-tide here comes from the westward. That there 
is besides this, during a great part of the summer, a permanent current 
setting from the same direction is also sufficiently apparent; and the joint 
effects of these two causes appear to account satisfactorily for the various 
irregularities observed, as well in the set of the stream as in the rise and 


fall o 
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S.E.b. 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 355 


fall of the water by the shore. The natural inference with respect to the 1822. 
current seemed at the time to be, that it is occasioned by the annual melt- GAY 
ing of the snows upon the shores of the Polar Sea, for which this Strait 
affords the only outlet leading to the southward, within perhaps some hun- 

dreds of miles ; and this supposition appeared the more reasonable from the 
circumstance of the current having just now ceased, when the streams from 

the land were once more arrested by the frost of approaching winter. It 

must however be confessed, that this conjecture will not hold good with 
respect to the current at Winter Island, where it was generally orcad to be 
setting to the southward throughout the whole of the winter. 

After clearing the narrows we ran down a few miles and then hove to for 
the night, which proved dark and squally, the wind having increased and 
veered more to the southward. The hours of darkness, in a confined and 
little-known navigation, are always anxious ones; but our situation was 
to-night rendered still more critical, by the compasses being affected some- 
what in the same manner as described on the morning of the 26th of August, 
and in a situation from three to five miles to the southward of the same spot. 

What the amount of the change was, the darkness prevented our deter- 
mining ; but it could not have been less than six or seven points, as was 
ascertained about the time of our heaving to, by the bearing of the Hecla 
astern of us, without which guide we should have imputed it to an alteration 
in the wind. We kept however in deep water during the night, and at 
daylight on the 2lst made all sail along Cockburn Island on which the wind Sat. 21. 
now directly blew. No ice was here seen to oppose our progress except 
some broad streams of “ pancake-ice ;” but it being impossible to run down 
on a dead lee-shore to carry on the proposed examination, I made a tack to 
fetch Tern Island and anchored under its lee for the night in thirteen 
fathoms, at the distance uf a mile from the shore. The island was now 
so covered with snow that it might easily be mistaken for a floe of heavy 
ice till closely approached. A number of sea-horses were seen here, and 
Captain Lyon struck some of them, but was prevented securing them by 
their taking to the young ice, through which the boats could not make their 
way., 

At break of day on the 22d we weighed and stood to the north-eastward, gun, 22, 
with the intention of procecding in the further examination of the shores of 
Cockburn Island, The wind, however, freshened up so suddenly from the 
§.E.b.S., that it was impossible to make any progress ; and at half-past eight 

2z2 


356: SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


ae A.M., finding the weather still becoming worse, I determined to run back to mov 
~~ Tern Island, where alone we knew of any shelter during the approaching bad ably 
weather. A fresh gale almost immediately coming on, with a considerable too 


sea and very thick snow, it was for some time doubtful whether we should T 


be able to find the little spot we were in search of. Discovering it at length vent 
under our lee appearing like a long white cloud upon the horizon, we bore twen 
up to run round the reefs by which it is encompassed, and which may be be s 
perceived at a considerable distance by the whiteness of the water. Every dang 
seaman will be aware of the difficulty of choosing an anchorage in a gale of amin 
wind, and upon a coast so little known as to render extreme caution neces- rage 
sary in approaching it. To these difficulties however must be added, in the to th 
present instance, the extreme smallness of the island, which afforded so little appe 
lee that, to use an expression of the seamen, it was like “ anchoring under thin 
the point of a needle.” On the other hand it was requisite for the leading runn 
ship to keep sufficient sail set to the last moment, to ensure gaining anchor- gales 
age, which once lost would have placed us in a situation of extreme danger the i 
during the ensuing dark and tempestuous night. The consequence was that ficult 
though the Fury’s sails were clewed up and furled with the utmost alacrity, on ac 
the strain proved too heavy for the anchor, which after bringing the ship quim 
nearly head to wind, began again to drag along the ground. The chain arrive 
cable being then veered to seventy fathoms, she was at length brought up, diatel 
being in five fathoms and a half and close to some grounded masses of ice the | 
lying upon the reefs ; but we had every reason, notwithstanding this, to sup- thoug 
pose that all was not right with the anchor. The Hecla having the Fury as in sh 
a guide came to in a good birth alittle outside of us. but | 
Mon. 23. The gale now continued to increase, and a good deal of swell setting into shore 
our roadstead incommoded us less by the additional strain thus .put upon the le 
the anchors, than by the numerous heavy masses of ice that it served to lift islanc 
off the ground, and which driving past the ships occasioned them some chore 
heavy shocks during this inclement night. We rode the gale out however mile | 
quite securely, and on the morning of the 23d had once more a moderate As 
breeze, though with continued snow. Advantage was taken of this change the of 
to shift our births a little further out, in case of the wind coming upon the usual 
shore, when our conjectures respecting the Fury’s anchor were disagreeably seem 
verified by its coming to the bows with only one fluke. Having now but a ceive 
single serviceable anchor on deck, the launch was hoisted out and one re- of th 
ceived from the Hecla. The wind shifted to the westward soon after we had sions, 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 357. 


moved ; and the island now affording us no shelter and the night being toler- py 
ably clear and fine, we weighed after dark, to avoid incurring further damage we 


to our ground tackle, in which our losses had already been scrious ones. 


The time had now arrived when I could no longer consider it prudent to Tues, 24. 


venture the ships at sea; for with ten hours of darkness in the four-and- 
twenty, a low temperature, and at times a considerable sea, it may readily 
be supposed that our situation was one of almost constant and unavuidable 
danger. Besides, on an unknown coast such as that I had purposed to ex- 
amine, it occupies nearly one-half of a short day in looking out for ancho- 
rage for the ensuing night, and that perhaps after all affording no security 
to the ships, with much risk to the ground-tackle. These considerations 
appeared to me so important, and the probability so small of effecting any 
thing that could eventually promote our main object, that I determined on 
running the ships over to Igloolik, before the strong autumnal equinoctial 
gales usual in these regions should come on. Making sail therefore for 
the island, we discovered it at half-past ten A.M., though such was the dif- 
ficulty of distinguishing this from Neerlo-nakto, or either from the main-land, 
on account of the snow that covered them that, had it not been for the Es- 
quimaux huts, we should not easily have recognised the place. At noon we 
arrived off the point where the tents had first been pitched, and were imme- 
diately greeted by a number of the Esquimaux, who came running down to 
the beach, shouting and jumping with all their might. The soundings, 
though regularly decreasing, are shoal off this point ; and the Fury in standing 
in shoaled the water to four fathoms and a half, at the distance of half a mile ; 
but by keeping out a little, and proceeding with caution along the south 
shore of the island, we deepened to twenty, and being then led more off 
the land, found no bottom with the hand-leads. Making a tack towards the 
island we again came into regular soundings ; and at half-past two P.M. an- 
chored in ten fathoms on a muddy bottom at the distance of two-thirds of a 
mile from the shore. 

As soon as we had anchored I went on shore, accompanied by several of 
the officers, to pay the Esquimaux a visit, a crowd of them meeting us as 
usual on the beach and greeting us with every demonstration of joy. They 
seemed disappointed that we had not reached Akkoolee, for they always re- 
ceive with eagerness any intelligence of their distant country-people. Many 
of them, and Toolemak among the number, frequently repeated the expres- 
sions, ‘ Owyak Na-o !” (no summer,) ‘ T’ook-too Na-o!” (no rein-deer,) which 


& 


SS <s 


358 


SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


we considered at the time as some confirmation of our own surmises respecting 
the badness of the past summer. When we told them we were come to win- 
ter among them, they expressed very great and doubtless very sincere de- 
light, and even a few coyennas (thanks) escaped them on the first communica- 
tion of this piece of intelligence. 

We found these people already established in their winter residences, 
which consisted principally of the huts before described, but modified in 
various ways both as to form and materials. The roofs, which were wholly 
wanting in the summer, were now formed by skins stretched tight across from 
side to side. This, however, as we soon afterwards found, was only a prepara- 
tion for the final winter covering of snow, and indeed many of the huts were 
subsequently lined in the same way within, the skins being attached to the 
sides and roof by slender threads of whalebone, disposed in large and re- 
gular stitches. Before the passages already described, others were now 
added from ten to fifteen feet in length, and from four to five feet high, 
neatly constructed of large flai slabs of ice cemented together by snow and 
water. Some huts also were entirely built of this material, of a rude circular 
or octangular form, and roofed with skins like the others. The light and 
transparent effect within these singular habitations gave one the idea of be- 
ing ina house of ground-glass, and their newness made them look clean, 
comfortable, and wholesome. Not so the more substantial bone huts, which, 
from their extreme closeness and accumulated filth, emitted an almost insup- 
portable stench, to which an abundant supply of raw and half-putrid walrus 
flesh in no small degree contributed. The passages to these are so low as to 
make it necessary to crawl on the hands and knees to enter them ; and the 
floors of the apartments were in some so steep and slippery, that we could 
with difficulty pass and repass, without the risk of continually falling among 
the filth with which they were covered. These were the dirtiest because the 
most durable of any Esquimaux habitations we had yet seen, and it may be 
supposed they did not much improve during the winter. Some bitches with 
young were very carefully and conveniently lodged in small square kennels, 
made of four upright slabs of ice covered with a fifth, and having a small 
hole as a door in one of the sides. The canoes were also laid upon two 
slabs of this kind, like tall tomb-stones standing erect; and a quantity of 
spare slabs lying in different places gave the ground an appearance somewhat 
resembling that of a statuary’s yard. Large stores of walrus’ and seals’ 
flesh, principally the former, were deposited under heaps of stones all about 


pe ae 


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- Puy SLILICACS. 


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added. from 


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water 

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TAGS 

WHA 2 howe al gs 
wi outa tthe, awl Sak wb 


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py a 

Ps 


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Bech, 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 359 


the beach and, as we afterwards found, in various other parts of the island, 1822, 
which shewed that they had made some provision for the winter though, ete 
with their enormous consumption of food, it proved a very inadequate 

one. 

The breeze continuing fresh from the westward, with clear weather, the Wed. 25. 
thermometer fell to 12° on the morning of the 25th. Being desirous of ascer- 
taining, as soon as possible, in what situation it would be expedient to place 
the ships for the winter, several boats were despatched to sound along the 
shore; when I found that the only spot likely to afford shelter, or even any 
near approach to the land, was within a point called Oong-dlooydt, at the en- 
trance of a fine bay about two miles to the westward of our present anchor- 
age. The young ice: now covered the whole surface of the sea like floating 
honey, the breeze not allowing it to become solid ; and, towards night, the 
wind shifting to the eastward, soon raised the temperature too high for any 
fresh formation of that kind. I determined, therefore, without loss of time, 
to take advantage of the opportunity afforded by this change, to run to the 
westward in a boat as far as the fixed ice would permit; and, if soon 
stopped by that obstacle, to cross upon it to the main-land, and endeavour to 
clear up the mystery respecting Khemig, which had cost us so many spe- 
culations and conjectures. ' 

Leaving the Fury at seven A.M. on the 26th, and being favoured by a Thur. 25. 
fresh easterly breeze, we soon cleared the south-west point of Igloolik ; and 
having passed the little island of Oogliaghioo, immediately perceived to the 
W.N.W. of us a group of islands, so exactly answering the description of 
Coxe’s Group, both in character and situation, as to leave no doubt of our 
being exactly in Captain Lyon’s former track. Being still favoured by the 
wind, and by the total absence of fixed ice, we reached the islands at eleven 
A.M., and after sailing a mile or two among them, came at once in sight of 
the two bluffs forming the passage pointed out by Toolemak and then sup- 
posed to be called Khemig. The land to the north called by the Esquimaux 
Khiadlaghioo we now found to be, as we had before conjectured, the southern 
shore of Richards’ Bay ; and its extreme point to the castward I subse- 
quently named, ‘by Lieutenant Nias’s request, Care Martuew Smiru, after 
Carrain Mattuew Situ, of the Royal Navy. The land on our left, or 
to the southward, proved an island, five miles and a quarter in length, of 
the same bold and rugged character as the rest of this numerous group, 
and by far the largest of them all. To prevent the necessity of reverting 


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a Lo ee Se eo = 


aS 


Sah rr eee ee 


360 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


to this subject I may at once add, that two or three months after this, 
on laying before Ewerat our own chart of the whole coast, in order to 
obtain the Esquimaux names, we discovered that the island just mentioned 
was called Khkemig, by which name Ormond Island was also distinguished ; the 
word expressing in the Esquimaux language any thing stopping up the 
mouth of a place or narrowing its entrance, and applied also more familiarly 
to the cork of a bottle or a plug of any kind. And thus were reconciled all 
the apparent inconsistencies respecting this hitherto mysterious and incom- 
prehensible word, which had occasioned us so much perplexity. 

After landing to dine upon one of the islands of which, from first to last, 
we counted nearly one hundred, we again made sail and, running between 


‘the bluffs, which are half a mile apart, continued our course in rather a 


wider channel than before though still among islands. At half-past three 


‘we were stopped by a floe of fixed ice stretching entirely across the 


. passage, and the weather now becoraing thick with small snow, we landed and 
pitched the tent for the night ; not, however, till I had recognised on the left 
hand or main-land the remarkable cliff described in my former journey, 
by which circumstance we were assured of being near the little inlet then 
- discovered. 


-Frid.27. At daylight on the 27th, we crossed to a small island at the margin of the 


ice; and leaving the boat there in charge of the coxswain and ‘two of the 
crew, Mr. Ross and myself, accompanied by the other two, set out across the 
ice at seven A.M. to gain the main-land, with the intention of determining 
the extent of the inlet by walking up its southern bank. After an hour's 


‘good travelling we landed at eight A.M., and had scarcely done so when we 


‘found ourselves at the very entrance, being exactly opposite the place from 
which Mr. Richards and myself had obtained the first view of the inlet. 
The patch of ice ‘on which we had been walking, and which was about three 
miles long, proved the only remains of last year’s formation; so forcibly had 
nature struggled to get rid of this before the commencement of a fresh 
winter. 

We found this land similar to [gloolik in its geological character, being 
‘composed of limestone in schistose fragments ; but in some parts, even for a 
mile or two together, covered with herbage the most extensive and luxuriant 
I have ever seen near this latitude. Here and there occurred a little pile as 
it were of the fragments of limestone, lying horizontally.as if arranged by 
art, and projecting a few feet above the surface of the ground. | The sides of 


sev 
any 
we 
quic 
velli 
inle 
the 
To 
to w 
cliff- 
was 
the» 
The 
some 
uppe 
sum! 
zont; 
hund 
the s 
these 
fossi 
He 
exte 
meet 
west 
tion. 
reac 
fortu 
our 
exa 
ence 
unfit 
and 
mine 
Inlet 
Hoor 
I 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. . 361 


several small rising banks presented a similar disposition, but I did not notice 
any boulders of harder substances resting upon any of them, nor indeed could 
we find a single specimen of any other mineral than limestone. Walking 
quickly to the westward along this shore, which afforded excellent tra- 
velling, we soon perceived that our business was almost at an end, the 
inlet terminating a very short distance beyond where I had first traced it, 
the apparent turn to the northward being only that of a shallow bay. 
To make quite sure, however, I sent Mr. Ross on with one of the men, 
to walk to the head of it, while I with the other turned off to examine the 
cliff-land to the southward. We found the slope of this to be composed as 
was conjectured, of the debris falling from the perpendicular ridge above, 
the whole being limestone without a single exception that we could discover. 
The slope making an angle of about 60° with a horizontal line, and being in 
some parts covered with snow, we with difficulty ascended it; but found the 
upper ridge wholly impracticable on account of the snow overhanging the 
summit. The height of the perpendicular rock, which lies in broad hori- 
zontal strata, is from twenty to thirty feet, the whole cliff being about one 
hundred and eighty above the level of the other ground. At the bottom of 
the slope lay numerous heavy square blocks of the limestone; and upon 
these, as well as on some of the smaller fragments, I observed impressions of 
fossil-shells. 

Having finished my examination of this remarkable piece of land, which 
extends between four and five miles in an east and west direction, I went to 
meet Mr. Ross ; who reported that, having walked three or four miles to the 
westward, he found the inlet terminate about two miles further in that direc- 
tion. Having thus completed our object, we set out on our returr, and 
reached the boat at three P.M. after a walk of twenty miles. The weather 
fortunately remaining extremely mild, no young ice was formed to obstruct 
our way, and we arrived on board at noon the following day, after an 
examination peculiarly satisfactory, inasmuch as it proved the non-exist- 
ence of any water communication with the Polar Sea, however small and 
unfit for the navigation of ships, to the southward of the Strait of the Fury 
and Hecla, The creek whose extent to the westward we had lately deter- 
mined, I named after Carrain Jonn Quiuuiam of the Royal Navy ; and the 
Inlet, of which this is a continuation, was distinguished by the name of 
Hooper Inxer, after my friend Mr. Hooper, purser of the Fury. 

I found from Captain Lyon on my return that, in consequence of.some ice 


3A 


Sat, 28. 


—— 


* . 
Se 5 


22 
* mension op Sy ee 


a ae 


y ie 
Sa 


sy oo ee — a 


362 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


coming in near the ships, (most probably that which had lately been dis- 
lodged from Richards’ Bay,) he had shifted them round the point into the 
births where it was my intention to place them during the winter; where 
they now lay in from eleven to fourteen fathoms at the distance of three 
cables’ 'engths from the shore. 

The point of Oonga-looyat is rendered conspicuous at some distance by 
fifteen walls of loose stones, disposed in a tolerably regular oval form, 
about tive feet high, from forty-one to twenty-seven feet in length, and 
from thirty-three to eighteen in breadth, the longest diameter being from 
north to south. The greater part of these had at their south ends a 
kind of recess, and some of them two, as in the annexed figures 1 and 
2, the entrance being through a gap in the wall, at ec. A smaller oval 


@ @ a (14 
> tae 


/ 


North. 


of stones was placed in the middle of the principal one, and had been 
used simply for confining the tent-skins of the Esquimaux, who had left 
behind them the usual traces of recent habitation, such as oil, bones and 
putrid flesh in abundance. The small central space at s was sunk about 
a foot below the level of the ground, and the parts marked 6 had served as 
beds, being raised with flat stones about a foot, and covered with shingle. 
The use of the principal or outer circles, which differed from any thing we 
had observed elsewhere, was not at first very obvious to us, but Ewerat and 
Togolat one day explained that they were only used at the killing of a 
whale, on which rare and grand occasion they indulge, it seems, in more 
than ordinary festivity and merriment. As far as we could understand their 
description of this féte, it appears that the whole animal or a principal part 


dis- 
the 
ere 
hree 


by 
brm, 
and 
rom 
Is a 
and 
oval 


een 
left 
and 
out 
las 
rle. 
we 
and 
fa 
ore 
1eir 
vart 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASS AGE. 363 


of it is dragged into the enclosure, where some of the men are employed in 
cutting it up and throwing the pieces over the wall to the rest, who stand 
ready to receive them outside ; while the women range themselves in a 
circle around the. whale within, and continue singing during the operation, 
One of these walls, which was built with more neatness and regularity than 
the others, had the inner oval larger in proportion than usual, and consisting 
of heavy stones evidently laid as seats. Each of these structures, (which 
were placed at the distance of thirty or forty yards apart,) was the distinct 
property of a particular individual; and had probably, in its turn, been the 
seat of feasting and merriment either to the present owner, or those from 
whom he had inherited it. The inner circles, however, appeared to be 
made use of as common summer habitations, cither from the convenience 
and superior shelter they afford, or possibly from some superstitious rever- 
ence entertained for this particular site. Ona rising ground above, were 
several large stones set upright in aline three or four huadred yards in 
length ; with what intention we did not learn. Most of these people had now 
returned to their winter station at the south-east end of the island. A sick 
man with his family took up his quarters in our neighbourhood, for the 
benefit of medical assistance ; and building a snow-hut near the ships, con- 
tinued Mr. Skeoch’s patient for a short time, and then joined the rest of the 
natives at the village. 


1822, 
Sept. 


The snow continued to fall during most of the 29th, on the evening of Sun. 29. 


which day the weather cleared up and the thermometer fell to 15° at mid- 
night. Some young ice now formed near us, but for this and the two fol- 
lowing days, when the temperature oscillated between 16° and 19°, it was 
only of the “ pancake ” kind, being the softest of any that assumes an ap- 


_ pearance of continuity. From the 2d to the 4th of October, however, when 


the thermometer fell to 10° during the nights, the ice formed into a more 
solid sheet; but being kept too constantly in motion by the wind to attach 
itself to the land, still drove rapidly past the ships, which easily cut for 
themselves a passage, as it were, through it, to the discomfiture only of the 
buoys on the anchors, which were frequently pressed under the ice, but 
would occasionally, by their buoyancy, force themselves up through some 
thin part. The rapidity with which ice will form upon the surface of the 
sea, even at no very low temperature of the atmosphere, was rendered 
particularly apparent by what occurred for several days about this period, 
when a continuous sheet, from three quarters of an inch to an inch and 
3A2 


October. 
Frid, 4. 


ABSTRACT of the METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL kept on beard His Majesty's Ship 
Fury, at Sea, during- the Month of Se; tember, 1522. 


art aowk rn wo wo = 


we =e So 


3 
In the Strait of the Fury and Hecla. 


Off the Island of Igloolik. 


Fahrenheit’s 
Thermometer. 


| Maxi- 


Mint- 
mum, 


25 | 31.83 
24 | 27,58 
25 | 27.58 
26 | 27.17 


19 -| 22.92 
20 | 25.58 
19 | 25.08 
19 | 25.37 
20 | 26,33 
23 (| 30.29 
27 «| 30.42 
24 | 27.83 
24.25 
22 | 25.83 
12 | 17.33 


Ib | 14.29) 


14 {| 18,00 
20 | 25.8% 


| 
| 4-37 La 


Pi 28.00 


19 | 24.71) 27.25 I 


WW | 13.21 | 27.50 || 29.78 


15 | 17,20)| 27.70 
16 | 17,75|' 97.95 


fiend 27.07 


Bu. roy 

ges Barometer, 
BES 

so 

SS |} Maxi- | Mini. 
s wR mum. mum. | Mean. 
° inches | inches | inches 
23.04 || 20.91 | 20.86 129, 898) 


28.42 
27.08 
27.17 
27.21 


| 20.82 
| 29.82 
20.94 
30.00 


29.84 |29.925, 


27.00 || 29.80 | 29.72 [29.765 
28.10 || 29,92 | 29,70 |20.778 
27.83, || 20.86 | 29.88 [20.840 
28.33 || 20.87 | 20.75 [20.820 
28.69 || 29.70 | 29.60 [29.050 
29.83 {| 29.58 | 29.51 |20.547, 
20.8 | 20.81 | 29,00 20.502 
23.46 | 29.50 | 20.48 |29. 495} 


28.05 
28,08 
27.12 


ide 
29 562 


27.22 
27.61 
28,21 


20.83 


29.88 
$0.02 


20 | 96 | 27.66]) 28.18 || 30.02 | 20.72 [20.803 
28 ‘| 26 | 26.92]| 28.17 || 20.72 | 29. 

28 | 44 jm 27.75 || 29.86 

25 | 12 | 18,90}) 27.45 |) 20.81 

29 | 97 | 28.49! 28.25 |] 20.64 

20 | 97 v.00 28.79 || 20.62 

7 | Ww pees 28,08 |] 20.73 


20.72 
29,60 | 20. 


20.45 |20,730, 


Prevailing 
Winds. 


Direction. 


NW 
NW 
West 
WbN 
NW 
West 
WNW 
ESE 
ENE 
NWbW 
SE 
ESE 
SE 
ENE 
NNW 
NW 
WNW 
West 
NW 
NW 
SEbE 
SSE 
SSE 
NW 
WNW 
ENE 
ENE 
Northerly 
NW 
NW 


Velocity. 


stron & 
squally 


modt. 
modt. 
modt. 
modt. 
modt. 
light 
light 
light 


It.& calm 


at times \ 
light 


fresh 
modt. 
light 
modt, 
fresh 
light 
light 
light 
modt, 
strong 
modt. 
modt. 
modt, 
modt, 
modt. 
modt, 
modt. 


modt, 


cloudy—=snow at times 


Prevailing 
Weather, 


clear 


fine 
fine 
fine 


hazy 


hazy 


hazy and small snow Ww 
hazy—snow at times pl 
cloudy ce 
cloudy—snow at times H 
snow at times di 
cloudy ay 
cloudy n 
cloudy h 
hazy--snow at times W 
hazy—snow at times s} 
cloudy N 
cloud 
. Ci 
hazy 

nN 

hazy and snow 
ri 
hazy and snow 

cloudy—snow at times 

cloudy n 
0 
t] 
z 


SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY. 365 


a half in thickness, incessantly drove past the ships. The distance of 
the land a-head, under which. this formation must have commenced, and 
which appeared as. though it were itself furnishing an inexhaustible store, 
was not more than two miles and a quarter, and the rate at which the ice 
came past us varied from a mile toa mile and a half an hour; so that the 
sheet must have been formed of this thickness in the course of two hours 
and a half at farthest. 

This continued without intermission for two days, the only annoyance 
it occasioned being that of preventing our communication with the shore, 
where some parties had previously been occupied in cutting turf for the sides 
of the house intended to be built as an observatory. On the night of the 
4th, however, it began to shew its strength by causing tle Hecla to drive 
directly in our hawse, but she fortunately brought up just in time to secure 
both ships from damage. It therefore became absolutely necessary to move 
farther into the bay; that we might have to encounter ‘“‘ younger ”’ ice, and 
thus avoid the risk, which now threatened us, of being driven out to sea for 
the winter. 

On the Sth, therefore, we commenced this attempt, it being my intention 
whenever the ice became attached to the land, to cut our way back to the 
present station. By dint of great exertion in all the boats, our people suc- 
ceeded in rowing out a stream anchor, and laying it down a-head of the 
Hecla, which was the weathermost ship; and by this she was enabled before 
dark to warp about one-third of a mile farther into the bay. On the follow- 
ing day she advanced a little farther by the same means, and then by hawsers 
run down from her the Fury was moved up to the same station. The ice 
had now become much stronger, and the wind falling in the evening, it 


was broken off near us and arrested in its drift, partly perhaps by the: 


ships themselves which now lay at the edge of the newly-formed floe. 
Near the time of sunset this afternoon a splendid parhelion appeared on 
each side at the distance of 22° 17' from the sun, displaying very rich pris- 
matic colours and quite dazzling the eye to look steadfastly at them. A pa- 
rasclena was also seen, at night, on cach side the moon, their angular 
distance from that object measuring 23°, The thermometer fell to zero at 
midnight and the temperature still farther decreased to — 2° on the morning 
of the 7th, which kept every thing quiet during the day, and gave us hopes 
that no disruption would again disturb us. The fall of the thermometer to 
zero occasioned as usual a considerable condensation of vapour into water, 


1822. 
October. 
DYN! 


Sun. G, 


1822, 
October, 
wy 


Tues. 8. 


Wed. 9. 


366 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


upon the beams of the lower deck; but directions being given for com- 
mencing our winter system of ventilation, dryness was restored in less than 
three hours after the lighting of the main-hatchway stove. 

The wind changing to the south-east on the 8th, and soon increasing to a 
fresh breeze which shortly raised the thermometer to +25° the ice was once 
more set in motion, breaking in all directions, and one sheet doubling under 
another wherever a separation had been effected. The wind increasing 
and with it the pressure also, the ships were turned round with their sterns 
towards the north-west shore of the bay, upon which, but for the anchors, 
we must have been immediately driven. Even these however could not 
long sustain the ships against the ice, which from being at first only an inch 
or two in thickness became in a few hours more than as many feet, by the 
long-continued process of one sheet overlaying the other. The Fury soon 
drove past the Hecla, the latter happening to rest against a stouter part of 
the ice, which for some time held her to windward. The breeze still in- 
creasing, the lower yards and top-gallant-masts were struck, and the rudders 
kept ready for unshipping, if it should be found necessary: we lay however 
tolerably quiet, driving but a little in the course of the night. Notwithstand- 
ing the constant motion and dangerous state of the ice during the day, several 
of the Esquimaux walked fearlessly, though cautiously, off to the ships. Their 
method is to go in a line a-head, or by single files, the leader and perhaps one 
or two of the others carrying a spear, with which they constantly try the ice 
before them, keeping their legs as far asunder as possible so as to bear upon 
a large surface, and carefully avoiding the parts that look black. In this 
manner, during this and the succeeding day, when I would not on any con- 
sideration have ventured a man of ours in a similar situation, did these 
people continue to visit us, some women and even children being among the 
number. 

On the morning of the 9th, the wind began to freshen to a gale, by which 
the ice was again set in motion, and the squeezing and doubling re-com- 
menced with fresh violence. In the afternoon the Fury drove rapidly to 
the westward but, occasionally holding on, allowed a great deal of ice 
to go past her and interpose itself between the ship and the land, As 
soon as this had taken place, and the ships were thus secured from the 
danger of driving on the beach, we should have been glad to purchase our 
anchors, which then became the objects of our greatest solicitude. The 
Fury was so closely and constantly hemmed in that, with her, this was 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 367 


impracticable ; but an opportunity unexpectedly offering for the Hecla to do 
so, Captain Lyon instantly toc’: advantage of it; when, to our inexpressible 
mortification, her anchor was found to have lost both the flukes. There was 
scarcely any loss which we could not better have afforded ; and I had every 
reason to apprehend that the Fury would incur a similar one; for the gale 
still increasing, her anchor was dragged over the ground nearly a mile with- 
out stopping, and at times continued to be so during the night, which proved 
a most tempestuous and inclement one. 

In the course of the evening, while the ice was driving past the Fury 
and fresh separations were almost every moment taking place in it, a little 
Esquimaux boy, named Aglooka, about ten years of age, a son of our 
patient at the point, found his way along-side, and was very quietly stepping 
from one piece of ice to another in order to keep his ground abreast our 
gangway. Observing him in this situation, we threw him the bight of a 
rope into which he put himself, and was hauled on board. With this indul- 
gence he was pleased, not from the idea of having escaped any danger, for 
he had certainly never felt apprehension, but because he might see the 
ship and pick up something from the Kabloonas. 


1822, 
October. 
Py 


Towards daylight on the 10th, the ice ceased moving, a great quantity Thur. 10. 


being now packed between the ships and the land. The Hecla had been 
driven to the westward of the Fury, but both were secure from going on 
shore, and our anchor was now once more the sole cause of apprehension. 
On its moderating and clearing up in the course of the forenoon, we found 
that we had drifted more than a mile and a half from the point of Oonga- 
looyat, the station originally selected for the winter-quarters of the ships, 
being now nearer to the western point of the bay. We could, however, do 
nothing but wait in patience to see if any further change would take place 
in the state of the ice and, whenever it appeared to be permanently fixed, 
commence the operation, which would now be no easy one, of cutting back 
to the point. In the mean time the ice not being likely to move without 
some alteration in the wind, we took the opportunity afforded by the Esqui- 
maux sledges, of which several came down to the ships, to obtain some 
water from the shore, our stock being nearly expended and the snow not 
yet sufficiently deep for collecting it to thaw. Mr, Crawford and one of our 
men, therefore, accompanied the Esquimaux with a sledge loaded with small 
casks, which they soon filled with water, though at the expense of falling 


H 

is 
et 3 

Bert 
fait 
‘ele | | 
i geet 
ey 
ie | 
+ fg 
ed: 

ie 

Dig 
i 

"i Ay 
te 


i; i 
Pata 
ne 


ee 
; 
i 
ae 
in 
iad 
j 
} 


= 


i 
i 
iy j 
| 
iH 


1822, 
October. 
Pw 
Frid. 11. 


Sun. 13. 


368 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


through the ice more than once, in consequence of its irregular and deceit- 
ful surface. 

On the llth, the wind backed a little to the north-east, and the ice re- 
mained quiet; but the small snow that almost constantly fell keeping the 
thermometer nearly up to the freezing point, we felt assured that a westerly 
breeze would again set it in motion, and subject us to the risk of losing 
more anchors, or of being driven out to winter at sea. The Esquimanux, 
finding their sledges might be turned to some account in our service, 
brought six or seven of them down to us on the 12th, when each ship em- 
ployed two in procuring water. Being unwilling also to subject our own 
people to the risk of falling in, to which they were much more liable than 
the natives, we did not hesitate to intrust the latter with the sole charge 
of our casks and tools for breaking the ice in the ponds. They performed 
all that we desired with great faithfulness and punctuality, bringing several 
turns of water in the course of the day, and receiving some small though 
useful reward for their pains. 

The wind remaining easterly during the greater part of the 18th, the ice 
gave us no disturbance ; till a very moderate ‘breeze springing up at nine 
P.M. from the opposite quarter at once set the whole in motion near the 
ships, and we soon began to drive with it to the eastward. The Hecla’s an- 
chor was immediately and of necessity let go; in less than an hour after- 
wards however the wind very opportunely backed to the southward, and no 
further alteration took place than the opening of a few small “holes” of 
water. This motion of the ice was so far favourable to us that, on the fol- 


Mon. 14, lowing day, we had an opportunity of purchasing our anchor on board the 


Fury, though not without heaving it by main force from under a floe. This 
labour however was amply repaid by our finding it perfectly uninjured, 
though polished quite bright on the lower side by dragging along the ground. 
It is perhaps proper for me here to notice, that the Fury had on this occasion 
a hempen cable bent, and the Hecla an iron one, and that while the anchor of 
the former was dragged a full mile and a half without any injury, that of the 
Hecla was broken in driving about one-tenth of the same distance. I may 
add moreover, that our former losses in anchors had also occurred with iron 
cables, which were preferred for general use on this service, to obviate the 
danger of their being damaged either upon foul ground or by the chafing of 
ice. From the circumstances just noticed, however, it is by no means my 


na 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 369 


intention hastily to infer that our losses in this way were to be attributed to 


1822. 
ctober. 


the unyielding nature, or any other supposed bad quality of the chain-cables, ~.~ 


(though this was the opinion expressed by our most experienced seamen at 
the time,) for a few insulated facts are of themselves of very little import- 
ance. But it is only by the collection of such facts under the various circum- 
stances of trial which may occur to seamen, that the comparative merits of 
the two kinds of cables can ultimately be determined. 


The wind was easterly with a mild atmosphere till the night of the 15th, Tues. 15. 


when the thermometer began to fall immediately on the springing up. of a 
north-west breeze. Some remarkable alterations took place however this 
evening, according to the clearness of the atmosphere or the contrary. _Be- 
tween four and five o’clock the weather becoming clear overhead, the tempera- 
ture fell to 124°; at thirty minutes after five a partial haze came on, when 
the thermometer immediately rose to 15$°; and this soon after disappearing, 
the thermometer again fell to 13°, the wind continuing at N.W. the whole 
time. The breeze gradually increased in the course of the night, and on 


the following day blew a gale for some hours, with considerable snow-drift. Wed. 16. 


As soon as it moderated we felt assured that the ice was now permanently 
fixed for the winter, and arrangements were therefore made for commencing 
our sawing operations the next morning. Such however was the laborious 
nature of this task, in consequence of the repeated doubling and squeezing 


of the ice, that after nine hours’ hard work for both crews on the 17th, we Thur. 17. 


could only succeed in getting in five and twenty fathoms of the Hecla’s chain- 
cable before dark. It is scarcely possible indeed to describe the teasing na- 
ture of ice in this state, and the impossibility of cutting a passage through it 
in any reasonable time. So many strata had overlaid each other that the 
whole thickness in some places exceeded seven feet, which in others was in- 
creased still further by masses squeezed up and lying over-end. Ice even of 
this thickness, if it were only solid, would afford by its continuity some 
means of pulling it out ; but in the present instance, after the saws had de- 
tached it, each separate layer was to be fished out by hooks and ropes, and 
as soon as one was removed another rose to the surface, leaving after all so 
much ‘ sludge” or small powdered ice, as immediately to produce a fresh 


formation on the surface. On the 18th however the Hecla’s anchor was got Frid. 1s. 


to the bows, and happily without injury to it; our next object was to get 
that ship close to the Fury, and then to commence a canal for both to warp in 
to the eastward. 

3B 


= ng eas me 


* hm om i ee ~ . 
SS ES ae SS 
eS - 


SR Gaetan oe ee 


Be il 
he iy 
Me Kued 


~ > —,— rt ts = 
ge EES ae ete 


1822. 
October. 
ww 


Sun, 20. 


Mon. 21. 


Wed. 30. 


370 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


It happened that immediately beyond the Fury in that direction, there way 
a level undisturbed floe of some extent, which it would be comparatively 
easy to saw and sink; while the whole of the ice between the two ships was 
of the impracticable nature I have endeavoured to describe above. As it was 
indispensible for Mr. Fisher’s observations and experiments that the Fury 
should be near the shore, I determined on this account as well’ as another 
that suggested itself about this time, and of which I shall speak in another 
place, not to incur the risk of both ships wintering at a distance from the 
land, by persevering too long in our attempts upon the Hecla, especially 
as the frost was now hourly increasing the difficulty we should have in moving 
the Fury into a convenient birth. The result of two whole days’ wet and 
fatiguing labour on the 19th and 20th, being only to advance the Hecla about 
two-thirds of her own length each day, I directed that object to be aban- 
doned without further delay, and the canal to be commenced ahead of the 
Fury. ; 

On the 2st a large basin was cut in a level piece of ice for the reception 
of a quantity of squeezed-up masses that lay between us and the regular floe, 
and which it was much easier to float away into any space that would be 
found for them, than to haul out of the water by piece-meal. This being 
accomplished, the work went on more quickly ; but it was not till the after- 
noon of the 30th that the whole was completed, and the Fury placed in the 
best birth for the winter that circumstances would permit. This was how- 
ever by no means so far out towards Oongalooyat as was originally intended; 
but the ice had in this neighbourhood been thrown up into such high and 
numerous hummocks, that to get the ship any further that way was entirely 
beyond our means ; and we were therefore obliged to rest contented with the 
facilities our present situation afforded for Mr. Fisher’s observations during 
the winter. An early release in the spring could here be scarcely expected, 
nor indeed did the nature of the ice about us independently of situation 
allow us to hope for it; but both these unfavourable circumstances had been 
brought about by a contingency which no human power or judgment could 
have obviated, and at which therefore it would have been unreasonable as 
well as useless to repine. We lay here in rather less than. five fathoms’, on a 
muddy bottom at the distance of one cable’s length from the eastern shore 
of the bay. 

The whole length of the canal was four thousand three hundred and forty- 
three feet ; the thickness of the ice in the level and regular parts being from 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 371 


ras twelve to fourteen inches, but in many places, where a separation had oc- 6 canis 
sly curred, amounting to several feet. I cannot sufficiently do justice to the Gy 
vas - cheerful alacrity with which the men continued this laborious work during 
vas thirteen days, the thermometer being frequently at zero, and once as low as 
ry — 9° in that interval. It was satisfactory, moreover, to find that, in the 
ier performance of this, not a single addition had been made to the sick-list of 
her either ship, except by the accident of one man’s falling into the canal, and 
the who returned to his duty a day or two afterwards. 
lly While our people were thus employed, the Esquimaux had continued to Thur. 31, 
ing make daily visits to the ships, driving down on sledges with their wives and 
nd children, and thronging. on board in great numbers, as well to gratify their 
nut curiosity, of which they do not in general possess much, as to pick up what- 
an- ever trifles we could afford to bestow upon them. These people were at all 
he times ready to assist in any work that was going on, pulling on the ropes, 
heaving at the windlass, and sawing the ice, sometimes for an hour together. 
ion They always accompanied their exertions by imitating the sailors in their 
oe, peculiar manner of “ singing out” when hauling, thus at least affording the 
be latter constant amusement, if not any very material assistance, during their 
ng labour. Among the numerous young people at Igloolik, there were some 
I whose activity, on this and other occasions, particularly struck us. Of these 
he I shall at present only mention two ;—Noogloo, an adopted son of Toolemak, 
yw: and Kongolék, a brother of ‘ John Bull.” These two young men, who were 
bd; from eighteen to twenty years of age, and stood five feet seven inches in 
nd height, displayed peculiar tact in acquiring our method of heaving at the 
ely windlass, an exercise at which Kongolek became expert after an hour or two’s 
he practice. The countenances of both were handsome and prepossessing, 
ng and their limbs well-formed and muscular; qualities which, combined 
ed, with their activity and manliness, rendered them, (to speak like a naturalist, ) 
on perhaps as fine specimens of the human race as almost any country can 
ben produce. 
Id Some of our Winter Island friends had now arrived also, being the party 
as who left us there towards the end of the preceding May, and whom we had 
a afterwards overtaken on their journey to the northward. They were cer- 
ore tainly all very glad to see us again and, throwing off the Esquimaux fora 
time, shook us heartily by the hand with every demonstration of sincere 
ty- delight. Ewerat in his quiet sensible way, which was always respectable, 
om gave us a circumstantial account of every event of his journey. On his 


3B 2 


SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


372 


arrival at Owlitteewcek, near which island we overtook him, he had buried 
the greater part of his baggage under heaps of stones, the ice no longer 
being fit for dragging the sledge upon. Here also he was happily eased of 
a still greater burthen by the death of his idiot boy, who thus escaped the 
miseries to which a longer life must, among these people, have inevitably 
exposed him. As for that noisy little fellow “ John Bull,” (Kootllitiuk,) he 
employed almost the whole of his first visit in asking every one, by name, 
‘«* How d’ ye do, Mr. so and so?’ a question which had obtained him great 
credit among our people at Winter Island. Being a very important little per- 
sonage, he also took great pride in pointing out various contrivances on 
board the ships, and explaining to the other Esquimaux their different uses 
to which the latter did not fail to listen with all the attention due to so 
knowing an oracle. 

We had for several days past seen no birds near the ships except one or 
two ravens; but those who had visited the huts had met with a covey or two 
of grouse in that neighbourhood, of which a few were killed by the Esqui- 
maux with arrows. Mr. Edwards found, on examination, that these birds, 
and also one or two obtained in the summer on the south shore of the Strait, 
were not of the same species as those we had procured farther to the south- 
ward, the latter being the tetrao rupestris, and these the tetrao albus, (Pen- 
nant’s Arct. Zool.) or the willow-partridge of Hearne. Two wolves had 
lately paid us some nocturnal visits, and the Esquimaux had killed several 
bears in the neighbourhood of the open water. 

Having now brought up the account of our proceedings to the time of the 
ships being once more established in their winter-quarters, it may not be im- 
proper to take a brief review of the result of our late efforts, and then to 
close this part of the narrative by stating the determination which I now 
formed with respect to the future movements of the Expedition. 

Flattering as our prospects appeared at the commencement of the past 
summer, our efforts had certainly not been attended with a proportionate de- 
gree of success ; and little satisfaction remained to us at the close of the sea- 
son, but the consciousness of having left no means within our reach untried, 
that could in any way promote our object. It required indeed but a single 
glance at the chart to perceive, that whatever the last summer’s navigation 
had added to our geographical knowledge of the eastern coast of America, 
and its adjacent lands, very little had in reality been effected in furtherance 
of the North-West Passage. Even the actual discovery of the desired outlet 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. . 373 


into the Polar Sea, had been of no practical benefit in the prosecution of our 


1822. 


October. 


enterprise ; for we had only discovered this channel to find it impassable, and =~ 


to see the barriers of nature impenetrably closed against us, to the utmost 
limit of the navigable season. 

Without reverting, however, to the past, or being at the pains to re-con- 
sider what we had or had not been able to effect, it was sufficient only to 
know our present geographical position to be aware, that the remaining re- 
sources of the Expedition were no longer adequate to the accomplishment 
of our principal object. Not to know this would have implied ignorance of 
the real nature of the attempt, and therefore not to admit it would have been 
little better than absurdity. Instead of disguising the difficulties where 
any existed, itseemed more prudent to search out and endeavour to obviate 
them ; and after fairly considering every circumstance of our situation, to de- 
cide on the adoption of such measures as, with our present resources, appeared 
still to hold out some reasonable hope of ultimate and complete success. 

Viewing the matter in this light, it appeared to resolve itself into the 
single question, by what means the resources of the Expedition could pos- 
sibly be extended beyond the period to which they were at present calculated 
to last, namely, thie close of the year 1824. Only one expedient suggested 
itself by which that object could be attained ; and this I determined to adopt 
should no unforeseen occurrence arise to prevent it.—It was to send the 
Hecla to England in the following season, taking from her a twelvemonths’ 
provisions and fuel to complete the Fury’s resources to the end of the year 
1825, and then continuing our efforts in that ship singly as long as a reason- 
able hope remained of our ultimate success. One or two Collateral advan- 
tages occurred to me as likely to be derived from this plan; the first of 
which was the opportunity thus afforded of transmitting to the Lords Com- 
missioners of the Admiralty a full account of our past proceedings and pre- 
sent situation and intentions, whereby perhaps much needless anxiety on our 
account might be prevented. It would also, as I hoped, allow their Lordships 
the option of making any alteration which they might now deem requisite in 
the arrangements pointed out in my Instructions, respecting the ship to be 
sent to meet us near Behring’s Strait, for which the orders might not perhaps 
leave England before the arrival of the Hecla there, in the autumn of 1823. 
These were, however, minor and less important considerations ; my principal 
object and determination being to persevere, to the utmost extent of our re- 
sources, in the prosecution of the enterprise with which I had the honour to 


374 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY. 


Ft be charged. Having suggested this expedient to Captain Lyon, I had much 
wr~ satisfaction in finding his opinion entirely coincide with my own ; and with- 
out at present mentioning it to the other individuals belonging to the Expe- 
dition, we continued to consult together from time to time during the winter, 
concerning the arrangements it would be requisite to make for commencing 


the execution of our plan in the course of the following spring. 


ceoaeoeer fF 8 wm © 8S = 


-— 
) 


EL LE TE PE PA SACS 
ABSTRACT of the METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL kept on board His Majesty’s Ship 


Fury, at Igloolik, during the Month of October, 1822. 


Fahrenheit’s Ther- eae 
mometer. pie A Barometer. 
O35 
Maxi- $ 2 & || maxi. | mini. 
mun, | mum. s 3 mum, | mum. | Mean, 


inches | inches 


29.52)20.543 
pusiett 
29 .60;29.666 
29.52/29.545 
29.65/29.732 
29.80 29.888) 
hia 


ceoenereoerees oo &» w tt 


— emt 
— 


17) 17 4 29.915 
18} 13 3 80.13/30.170) 
19} 21 4 30.07/30. 115 
20 || 20 | 4 30.16/30, 207 
21) 10 0 30.28/30.290 
2) 2 |-5 30.06,30.172 
23 9 29.98/30 .002 
24 + 2 30.00/30.047 
2 |) il 4 30.11/30. 223 
26 8 5 30.33)30, 402 
a7] u 5 30.26,30.310 
ES 15 | 10 30.10)30. 157 
29 30.06)30.082 
30 29.95|30.030 
31 29 .61)/29.758 


Prevailing 
Winds. 
Direction, [Velocity 
NW fresh 
NW fresh 
NE light 
NW esterly | light 
NW fresh 
NW fresh 
NNW by W to t light 
SE modt. 
East fresh 
ESE |{sm-f 
NE modt, 
NE modt. 
NEbyN | light 
SSE modt. 
ESE moat, 
AM: NIVY| moat 
SE moat. 
NE light 
ENE modt. 
North ; andra. 
NNW light 
NW modt, 
NNW __ [modt. 
ENE _ | light 
North | light 
BOAR. §| tight 
South |modt. 
South |modt. 
East light 
EbN light 
N Easterly | light 


Prevailing Weather. 


cloudy 


fine 


.cloudy—snow at times 


cloudy 
cloudy 
clear 
clear 
cloudy and snow 


cloudy 


snow 
cloudy 


hazy and snow 
hazy and snow 
cloudy and snow 
hazy 
cloudy 
cloudy, snow at times 
cloudy 
fine and clear 
cloudy, snow at times 
fine and clear 
fine 
fine and clear 
fine and clear 
hazy and snow 
cloudy 


hazy, snow at times 
hazy, snow at times 


cloudy, snow at times 
cloudy 
hazy 


hazy, snow at times 


Sen Segre 
“= am £ F 


iY a 
F i 

i 

i 

f 

H 

i: | 


TES 


1822. 
Novemb. 
Be 


376 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


CHAPTER XIII. 


PREPARATIONS FOR THE WINTER—-VARIOUS METEOROLOGICAL PHENOMENA TO THE 
CLOSE OF THE YEAR 1822—sICKNESS AMONG THE ESQUIMAUX—A HOSPITAL BUILT 
NEAR THE SHIPS FOR THEIR ACCOMMODATION—METEOROLOGICAL PHENOMENA TO 
THE END OF MARCH—ABSTRACT OF THE COMPARATIVE MEAN WINTER TEMPERATURE 
AT MELVILLE ISLAND, WINTER ISLAND, AND IGLOOLIK. 


Tue measures now adopted for the security of the ships and their stores, for 
the maintenance of economy, cleanliness, and health, and for the prosecu- 
tion of the various observations and experiments, being principally the same 
as those already detailed in the preceding winter’s narrative, it will only be 
necessary to mention those particulars in which, either from some slight 
difference of situation, or from our additional experience, any deviation from 
the former plans was now considered necessary. 

It is worthy of notice that each succeeding winter passed in these regions 
had suggested to us the expediency of leaving our masts, yards, sails, and 
rigging more and more in their proper places than before: and all that we 
now did was to strike the top-gallant yards and masts, unreeve the running- 
rigging to prevent chafing by the wind, lay the small sails across the tops, 
and hang the spare spars over the side. It may, indeed, be safely affirmed 
that, ina high latitude, the less the masts and yards are dismantled the better, 
for the frost does no injury to the geer while it remains unmoved ; and none 
can possibly occur from thawing till the proper season for refitting arrives. 
The boats were placed on the ice, about fifty yards from the ships, and with 
their geer stowed in them closely covered with snow. 

In banking the snow against the ships’ sides, pains were taken to make 
this a more effectual protection than before. For this purpose a wall of suf- 
ficient height, composed of cut slabs of snow, was first constructed at the dis- 
tance of four or five feet from the bends, and loose snow afterwards thrown 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. | 377 


in between, till it reached considerably above the chains, so as to cover 


1822. 
ovemb. 


nearly the whole of the upper-works. We also laid over the upper-deck fore ~~ 


and aft, as well as upon the hatchways and companions, about eight inches 
depth of snow, and above that a coating of sand cemented by water, so as to 
form a firm and level covering of these materials. Though there can be 
little doubt of the efficacy of this plan in preventing the escape of a portion of 
the warmth from below, it is also to be recommended as ‘of essential service 
in preventing the planks from rending, and the pitch in the seams from being 
cracked, effects which the frost is otherwise sure to produce. 

The facility which our people had acquired by our intercourse with the 
Esquimaux in the application of snow to the use of building, induced me 
also to surround the Fury with a wall of that plentiful material; it was twelve 
feet high, and placed at the distance of twenty or twenty-five yards from the 
ship, forming a large square like that of a farm-yard. It is probable that 
such a wall may be favourable, during high winds, for preventing in some 
degree the rapid abstraction of heat from a ship, while it also serves the 
purpose of keeping out snow drift, and of affording a comfortable shelter 
for walking with almost every wind that can blow. 

In housing-in the ships, the ‘“ pitch” of the roof was made somewhat less 
than before, the height of the centre spar being now thirteen fect above the 
deck; and as the day-light began to return, two or three of the glazed 
garden frames were fitted into the cloth as skylights, which proved a great 
convenience. I may here mention that scarcely any snow rested on the 
housing during the winter, a fresh breeze invariably carrying away that 
which any preceding light weather had allowed to lodge there. The same 
remark applies to our tops, masts, yards, and rigging, which were perhaps 
more clear of snow in April than in October. 

The observatory house on shore was now built rather smaller than before, 
being thirteen feet by eight, of which the observatory part occupied five 
feet of one end, leaving a room eight feet square for the instruments and 
other apparatus, It was also built with a flat instead of a “ pitched” roof; 
and this, as well as the sides, were of single planks, lined on the inside 
with canvass, and closely covered without, first by turf and then by slabs 
of snow. It is only necessary to add that, in all these alterations, the ad- 
vantage was no less felt in the additional warmth, than in the reduction of 
labour and materials requisite in the construction. 

The distance between the two ships, though not such as to prevent con- 

3 ¢ 


- SS ae 


: 
Hit 
ote 


of if 

if 

i” 
is 

t 

I 

ih. 
1 Be, 
a, ha 
' ket 


a 


pe aaron 


> : ——— . 
Sg PEL SEP ta EAI 


— 


——a wu 
<a 


a 


ERAS 2 eo 
“ — ss 4 é 
mae =. m F ~~ Sect et 


aan 


mano<iiietipanath nessa 
_ mrs 


en 


Frid. 1, 


378 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


stant intercourse, was nevertheless too great to allow of our continuing the 
theatrical entertainments, by which our former winters had been consider- 
ably enlivened. This was however the less requisite, and indeed entirely 
unnecessary, on account of our neighbourhood to the Esquimaux, whose 
daily visits to the ships throughout the winter afforded, both to officers and 
men, a fund of constant varieiy and never-failing amusement, which no re- 
sources of our own could possibly have furnished. Our people were, how. 
ever, too well aware of the advantage they derived from the schools, not to 
be desirous of their re-establishment, which accordingly took place soon 
after our arrival at Igloolik ; and they were glad to continue this as their 
evening occupation during the six succeeding months. 

The ordinary occupations and occurrences of the winter having now lost 
the novelty which could alone have imparted to them at first any interest 
or amusement in the relation, I shall perhaps be readily excused for passing 
them over in silence ; and for confining myself principally to an account of 
the natural phenomena observed during the winter, and to a few occasional 
remarks on the means of preserving health in these regions. 

During the first week in the month of November, the weather for this 
climate continued tolerably mild, and the temperature then fell to 30° below 
zero, which change we felt very sensibly. Open water was still observed 
at the distance of two or three miles in the offing, with columns of frost- 
smoke over it and a bluish ‘“ water-sky ” about that part of the horizon. 
A grouse (tetrao albus) was killed at the huts on the 16th, having, besides 
the black near the tip of the tail-feathers, two speckled feathers not far from 
the end of the tail. 

About this time, a number of the Esquimaux sent sledges and dogs for 
several of their relatives coming from Amitioke, among whom were many of 
our old acquaintance and some also who were strangers to us. Among 
others was our young friend Toolooak, who arrived in company with another 
remarkably fine young man named Oo-too-gu-ak. The former, as we now 
found, had come for the very important purpose of entering on the cares of 
the marriage-state, though his own age was only from seventeen to eighteen, 
and that of his wife, a very pretty girl named Kerktid, not more than sixteen. 
These youthful marriages are quite common among the Esquimaux of Igloo- 
lik, and in some instances take place even at a still earlier age than that just 
mentioned ; for a girl named Ang-oot, who had been the wife of Kongolek 
for several months, could not possibly have passed the age of thirteen at this 


the 
ler- 
rely 
lose 
and 
) re- 
OW- 
it to 
s00n 
heir 


lost 
rest 
sing 
nt of 
onal 


this 
elow 
rved 
rost- 
zon, 
sides 
from 


rs for 

y of 

ong 
other 
now 
es of 
teen, 
teen. 
gloo- 
t just 
golek 
t this 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. — 379 


time. The marriage ceremony appears to be very simple, consisting only in 
the husband coming, when desired, to the hut or tent of the bride’s father, 
and taking her to his own by force. As the time of the marriage seems to 
depend wholly on the caprice or interest of the parents, the reluctance ex- 
pressed by the female, and which the women humourously enough described 
to us as forming an indispensable part of their conduct on this occasion, is 
probably not always a matter of mere form or pretended coyness. This 
event constitutes a most important era in the life of the young couple, who 
immediately set up a separate establishment, similar to that of the oldest 
married people, and the husband is thenceforth bound to labour for the support 
of his wife. There can be no doubt of the advantage of these early mar- 
riages to both parties ; nor is there any time of life at which an Esquimaux 
of either sex may be considered as better furnished both with food and 
clothing, than during the first five or six years after this event has taken 
place. 

Toolooak had scarcely arrived a couple of hours, when some of our gen- 
tlemen going out to the village found him seated beside his wife with all the 
gravity and sedateness of an old married man ; and on the following day they 
both came to the ships. Toolooak having grown considerably, had a much 
more manly appearance than before; but neither he nor his wife had much 
to say for themselves at this their first visit. ‘The bride” was dressed out, 
while she remained on board, in all the finery we could muster, and both 
received numerous useful presents to assist in setting them up in the world. 
Toolooak’s travelling companion Ootooguak particularly attracted our notice 
on account of his height, which was five feet nine inches and three quarters, 
or within a quarier of an inch of the tallest we had yet seen in the tribe. It 
is no less remarkable also that his father Nannow, and his brother Ooyarra- 
seoo, who arrived shortly after, were both uncommonly fine and tall men for 
Esquimaux, the first, notwithstanding a slight degree of decrepitude, standing 
five feet eight and a half and the latter five feet nine inches in height. 

I must here notice an occurrence which had lately taken place, and which 
created no inconsiderable sensation among the Esquimaux. Though the 
authority of the husbands is in most respects strictly maintained among these 
people, yet their conduct towards their wives is far from being unkind, and 
they seldom if ever proceed to the extremities too common with some savages. 


A few days ago, however, an elderly man named Sherddeoo, in consequence 
3ce2 


1822. 
Novemb. 
anw 


1822. 
Novemb. 
Fe 


380 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


of some altercation between his two wives, undertook to settle their dispute 
by means of his knife, with which he inflicted some very severe cuts on the 
forehead of one, and on the hand of the other. Some of our gentlemen 
found them sitting very contentedly in their hut, with one of the wounds 
sewn up, and both covered over with the hair of deer adhering by the coagu- 
lated blood. They were evidently very shy of shewing them, and Sheradeoo 
exhibited a good deal of uneasiness at having his domestic affairs thus 
inquired into; so that, upon the whole, eur gentlemen on their return con- 
fessed that here, as elsewhere, it seemed most prudent not to it.terfere in the 
quarrels betwixt man and wife. The Esquimaux uniformly spoke of this 
occurrence as a matter of real reproach ; which circumstance, together with 
the fact of its being the only instance that has come to our knowledge 
during a long intercourse with these people, is a sufficient proof that it forms 
an exception to their ordinary conduct, and cannot therefore fairly be con- 
sidered an impeachment of their general character. 

The Esquimaux having occasionally at this season a quantity of venison at 
their huts which, as well as large loads of walrus-flesh, they continued for 
some time after the setting-in of the winter to bring from various distant 
stores, a general permission was given to purchase meat, to be paid for out 
of the presents. The article most in request, however, was wood, and for a 
piece of rough spar about seven feet long and from two to three inches 
thick, I purchased for the use of the ship more than seventy pounds of the 
finest venison we had ever seen, while smaller portions were occasionally 
obtained for less valuable articles. Captain Lyon and myself also bought 
some dogs and set up our own sledges, which proved of infinite convenience 
in various ways during the winter, there being an excellent hard and beaten 
road constantly kept between the ships and the huts, by the frequent walk- 
ing and driving of ourselves and the natives. These people parted with 
their dogs without much reluctance, and at first at a moderate price; and the 
dogs in ashort tine became so domesticated among us, that they would never 
leave the ships. It seems a curious piece of inconsistency in the disposition 
of these people that, harshly as in many respects they certainly treat their 
dogs, they were not satisfied to sell them to us till assured we did not mean 
to kill them ; and they thanked us more heartily, I believe, when they saw us 
building a house for their reception, than they would have done for a similar 
attention paid to themselves. The dogs on their part shewed that this 


ute 
the 
nen 
nds 
igu- 
00 
hus 
-on- 
the 
this 
vith 
dge 
rms 
con: 


n at 
for 
tant 
out 
ora 
hes 
the 
ally 
nght 
nce 
Aten 
alk- 
ith 
the 
bver 
ion 
eir 
ean 

us 
ilar 


his 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. | 381 


regard was reciprocal, for even after they became perfectly familiarized to 
the ships, they always fawned upon their old masters, and. expressed great 
delight at seeing them. 

Some wolves continued still to prowl about us, and three of these hungry 
animals were nearly on the point of attacking a Newfoundland dog of Mr. 
Richards’s, which went playing about them, when he was called off in time 
to save him. On the 23d, the thermometer, for the first time, got down to 
—38°, when our mercury in the artificial horizons, being probably adulte- 
rated by lead from the troughs, froze into the form of branches of trees, 
extremely beautiful, and retaining all its brilliancy of surface. For several 
days about this period the cold continued uniformly intense, but with every 
westerly wind there was open water at no great distance to the south-east- 
ward of the island, where the Esquimaux almost daily resorted for the pur- 
pose of killing walruses. On the 30th in the morning we remarked a simul- 
taneous increase of wind and in the temperature of the atmosphere, the 
thermometer rising from — 264° to —20° as the breeze freshened, without 
any other apparent cause affecting it. The mean temperature of the month 
of November, which was —19° 37’ we considered a low one, being only 
14° above that of Melville Island in 1819. 

The appearances of the Aurora Borealis were neither frequent nor brilliant 
during this month. On the 7th near midnight this phenomenon appeared 
from E.S.E. to S,W., forming an irregular arch of white light, not continuous 
in every part, and about eight degrees high in the centre. From the upper 
margin of this arch, coruscations now and then shot upwards towards the zenith. 
On the morning of the 2lst, Mr. Ross remarked a bright arch of the Aurora 
passing through the zenith from east to west, and meeting the horizon at 
each end: besides this, two smaller and apparently concentric arches were 
visible to the southward, the higher arch being in the centre about twenty 
degrees above the horizon and the other about ten degrees. An arch of the 
same kind appeared at night in the south-west quarter of the heavens. On the 
3d a column of light tinged with prismatic colours appeared on each side of 
the sun, at the angular distance of 22°05’, and a parhelion at the same dis- 
tance above it. The columns indeed were, properly speaking, parts of an 
imperfect circle or halo; beyond these, however, at the same height above 
the horizon, and distant from the sun forty-six.degrees, was a second par- 
helion on each side, slightly coloured like the others; so that five of these 
were visible at the same time, though none but the two first mentioned were 


1822. 


ovemb. 
P™ 


Sat. 23. 


Sat. 30 


ABSTRACT of the METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL kept on board His Majesty’s Ship 
Fury, at Igloolik, during the Month of November, 1822. 


Fahrenheit’s Prevailin 
Thermometer. M Barometer. Winds Prevailing 


Weather. 


i) 
<q 


- Mini- 
a ta 4 Mean. deck. mum, mum, Mean. Direction. | Velocity, 


—_——_ es 

90:57 29,623 WNW | light] cloudy—snow at times 
29.67 | 29.725 West light fine 
29.78 | 20.855 NW light fine and clear 
29,83 | 29.902 West | light hazy 
29.72 | 29.772 Tari Kenn cloudy 
29.72 | 29.732 South light hazy 
29.83 | 29.980 light fine and clear 
29.62 | 30.007 light hazy 
29.20 | 29.878 fresh hazy, snow at times 
29.61 | 20.707 fresh cloudy 
29.53 | 29.608 clear 
29.39 | 29.482 ||’ ! clear 
29.69 | 29.867 fine and clear 
80.00 | 30.064 fine and clear 
29.68 | 29.618 fine and clear 
29.50 | 20.622 i fine 
29.50 | 29.683 clear 
29.89 | 29.900 fine and clear 
20,83 | 29.852 
29.80 | 29.872 
29.60 | 20.672 
29.67 | 29.623 clear 
20.78 | 20.810 fine and clear 
20.80 | 29.826 fine and clear 
20.44 | 20.595 fine and clear 
20,28 | 20.318 cloudy 

29.378 
20.42 | 29.587 

29.708 

29.743 


Ts 
Somasannowe | 


a 
= 


SSBRBeRSRERBBRBEBESS 


SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY. 383 


very distinct. On the 16th Mr. Ross and myself observed near the northern 
horizon, and exactly opposite to the sun, a circular patch of faint white light ; 
its size was many times larger than that of the sun, though it was not at all 
defined about the edges, being indeed rather softened off into the purple 
sky on which it rested. On the 22d the sun rose with a bright spot of white 
light at the distance of twenty to thirty degrees on each side of it, and a ver- 
tical column of a red colour extended from the sun to about two degrees above 
it. This last phenomenon is very common in cold weather and when the 
sun’s altitude is very small. A cross was observed about the moon on the 


1822. 


Novemb. 


PY 


27th, consisting of vertical and horizontal rays of whitish light appearing to- 


pass through that object. 

At apparent noon, on the 2d of December, six days after the sun had in- 
dependently of the effects of refraction set to us for a period of more than 
seven weeks, we caught a glimpse of its upper limb from the deck. of 
the Fury, about one-sixteenth of its whole disk being visible above the low 
land to the southward. It is impossible not to acknowledge the benevolence 
as well as to admire the wisdom of the law which, among all its varied and 
wonderful effects displayed throughout the works of nature, contrives to 
shorten, by nearly a whole fortnight, the annual absence of this cheering 
luminary from the frozen regions of the earth, and thus contributes so essen- 
tially to the welfare and enjoyment of their numerous inhabitants. 

On the 4th I drove out to the huts, accompanied by Mr. Hooper, princi- 
pally with the intention of bringing back one of my dogs that had strayed to 
the village, and which Toolemak, his former master, had been employing in 
his fishery for several days past, instead of bringing him honestly back ; a trick 
which evidently shewed a disposition to try how far they could safely go in 
this way, and of which therefore it was as well to take some notice in good time. 
Including the late addition of our Winter Island acquaintance, the number of 
separate huts now amounted to fifteen or sixteen, which, together with the 
usual appurtenances, such as canoes, sledges, and several smaller store- 
houses, occupying perhaps a quarter of an acre of ground, constituted a vil- 
lage of no mean nor uninteresting appearance. We found very few men at 
the huts, the greater part being absent in quest of walruses ; and after passing 
an hour or two in several of the apartments, and making a number of presents 
to the women, we were under the necessity of coming away without perform- 
ing our principal errand, as neither Toolemak nor my dog made their ap. 
pearance. I took care, however, publicly to proclaim Toolemak as a tigliktoke 


Decemb. 
Mon. 2 


Wed. 4. 


1822, 
Decemb. 
aa 


384 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


(thief,) which declaration, as I expected, produced the greater effect from the 
notice we had hitherto taken of him, and the. respect in which he was held 
by the Esquimaux in his capacity of Angetkook. As a more effectual pre- 
ventive, however, against a repetition of this kind of roguery in future, | 
took away from his hut a large piece of wood that I had given him for two 
dogs, till he should return the one in question, explaining. to his wife my rea- 
son for doing so; and then returned to the ships. <A day or two afterwards 


_ the dog was returned in due form, and with every expression of sorrow and 


Sun, 8 


Sun. 15. 


Tues, 17. 


Thur. 19. 


contrition that Toolemak could muster on such an occasion. It deserves to 
be noticed as a fact extremely creditable to these people, that though for above 
two hours we had left our sledge unguarded, and with numerous valuable 
presents upon it, we did not find a single article missing when we came away, 
and this was by no means the only instance of the same thing occurring. 

I found on my return to the ships that two of our English dogs, having in- 
cautiously set off in chase of a wolf near the Hecla, one of them, a Scotch 
terrier belonging to Lieutenant Reid and a great favourite with us, had been 
caught and devoured by the hungry and ferocious animal. The other 
had escaped by being a quicker runner; though the resemblance of the wolf 
to the Esquimaux dogs was such as to have probably deceived them till they 
approached him very close. 

On the 8th, for several hours before and after noon, a vertical column of 
pale red light appeared immediately over the sun’s place, extending a degree 
or two above the horizon, and shifting its position only as the sun swept 
round to the westward. From the 9th to the 12th the thermometer frequently 
fell to — 43°, being a greater degree of cold than had at all been experienced 
during the preceding winter; and the temperature now kept down with a 
degree of constancy that had not been experienced even at Melville Island 
at this season. 

On the 14th and 15th the wind blew hard from the west and N.W. for seve- 
ral hours, with considerable snow-drift, notwithstanding which the mercury 
in the barometer kept up as high as 29.80 inches for more than four and 
twenty hours successively, and ‘clear and moderate weather succeeded for 
two or three days. On the 17th Mr. Ross killed another grouse of the same 
species as before, and weighing one pound fourteen ounces; it had in its 
maw the buds of the ground willow, some seed vessels of the sazifraga op- 
positifolia, and a small quantity of moss. The smoke issuing from the stove- 
pipes kept remarkably low during the whole of the 19th, the thermometer 


be 


of 

the 
qu 
sav 
pro 
cas 
eve 
or 

ten 
dur 
alba 
veg 
was 
how 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 385 


being from — 30° to 33°, and the mercury in the barometer at 30.07 inches. As _ 1822. 
the reverse of this was frequently the case when these instruments afforded oe 
an indication nearly similar, it appeared to us to depend on some other con- 
dition, perhaps the moisture, of the atmosphere. On the 2lst there being a Sat. 21. 
fresh wind, with the sky clear overhead, Arcturus was discernible to the naked 
eye till forty-seven minutes after eleven, A.M., apparent time; at half an 
hour past noon it was again visible, and stars of the second magnitude could 
be distinguished at three-quarters past one o'clock. 

On Christmas-day I directed a small addition to be made to the allowance Wed. 25. 
of provisions, including a dinner of fresh beef that had been killed on board 
the Nautilus in the month of June, 1821, and preserved with a very small 
quantity of salt rubbed over it, on deck, since that period. Though I never 
saw a Christmas spent in so orderly a manner at sea, it did not pass without 
producing some injurious effects upon the health of the men, several serious 
cases of disordered bowels occurring immediately afterwards, in spite of 
every precaution. As more than usual care had been taken to avoid excess 
or exposure among them, Mr. Edwards considered this circumstance as 
tending to evince a greater susceptibility in this way than had been exhibited 
during our first winter. On the 26th Mr. Ross shot another grouse (tetrao Thur.26. 
albus,) weighing one pound eight ounces, and having in its maw the same 
vegetable substances as the last. On the 28th the smoke from the funnels Sat. 28. 
was again observed to keep unusually low, skimming along the top of the 
housing as it escaped, and then descending to the ice. The thermometer 
was at this time at —35°, and the mercury in the barometer at 29.65 inches, the 
wind being light at N.N.W. 

The year closed with the temperature of —42°, the mean of the month of Tues. 31. 
December having been 27° 8, which, taken in connexion with that of Novem- 
ber, led us to expect a severe winter. Observing a considerable difference 
in the indication of some of our spirit-thermometers, ten of these instru- 
ments were exposed to the atmosphere under exactly similar circumstances * : 
when they were found to range from —35° to — 48°, the two hitherto registered 
on board and on the ice, indicating from 2° to 3° higher than the mean of the 
whole number. The latter of these two was in future used for registering 


* Of this number five were of uncoloured spirits, with the scales graduated as low as — 200° ; 
the rest were of alcohol coloured in the usual manner. By subsequent comparisons it appeared 


that at higher temperatures, especially above zero, the disagreement was rauch less between the 
same instruments, 


3 D 


e 


a 
; 
be 

it 


ee 
vend: 
Vales 
ay ‘ 
A | i 
as 
ve bit 


386 ® SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


the temperature, and that on board altogether dispensed with; so that the 


-r~ degree of cold found in the Meteorological Abstracts during this winter, will 


be from 2° to 8° less than the mean above alluded to. In estimating the mean 
temperature of the year, the same deduction may fairly be made during the 
other months, as a correction for the difference between the thermometer on 
board, and that freely exposed at a distance from the ship. 
In the meteorological phenomena observed during the month of Decem- 
ber, there was little that deserves particular notice. On the morning of the 
1st of December a luminous spot of white light or paraselena was seen on 
each side of the moon, at the angular distance of 23°. Between one and two 
A.M. on the 13th, while Messrs. Ross and Bushnan were employed in taking 
some observations alongside the Fury, they saw a vivid flash of light, which 
it afterwards occurred to them must have come down the electric chain at- 
tached to the masthead, directly under which they happened to be standing at 
the time. As soon as Mr. Fisher was acquainted with this circumstance he 
applied the electrometer to the chain, but as usual without any perceptible 
effect on the gold-leaf. The Aurora Borealis had been visible to the south- 
ward for some hours during the night, but had disappeared for half an hour 
before the flash was seen. About nine A.M. on the 19th, Mr. Hooper ob 
served a meteor in the W.b.S., about 50° above the horizon, whence it de- 
scended in a curved line, having its convex side towards the horizon, and 
disappeared in the W.b.N. In size and brilliancy it resembled the planet 
Jupiter, and the time of its continuance was about three or four seconds. 
About the middle of the month of December several of the Esquimaux 
had moved from the huts at Igloolik, some taking up their quarters on the ice 
at a considerable distance to the north-west, and the rest about a mile outside 
the summer-station of the tents. At the close of the year from fifty to sixty 
individuals had thus decamped, their object being, like that of other savages 
on terra firma, to increase their means of subsistence by covering more 
ground ; their movements were arranged so quietly that we seldom heard of 
their intentions till they were gone. At the new stations they lived entirely 
in huts of snow; and the northerly and easterly winds were considered by 
them as most favourable for their fishing, as these served to bring in the loose 
ice on which they principally kill the walruses. At the distant station, how- 
ever, which was farther removed from clear water, their principal dependence 
was on the neitiek, which is taken by watching at the holes made by that ani- 
mal inthe ice. Abreast of Igloolik the clear water was not, with a westerly 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE, 387 


wind, more than three miles distant from the land, and a dark weser-sky coy 182? 
tinued accurately to define its position and extent. we 

From the time of our first arrival here in the autumn, the Esquimaux had 
been in the habit of catching foxes upon the west point of the bay, called by 
them Arngnéd-ho-ch-sedt. The traps used for this purpose were extremely 
simple and ingenious, and to us quite new. They consisted of a small cir- 
cular arched hut of stones, having a square aperture at the top, but quite 
close and secure in every other part. This aperture is closed by some blades 
of whalebone which, though in reality only fixed to the stones at one end, 
appear to form asecure footing, especially when the deception is assisted by 
alittle snow laid on them. The bait is so placed that the animal must come 
upon this platform to get at it, when the latter (unable to bear the weight) 
bends downwards, and after precipitating the fox into the trap, which is made 
too deep to allow of his escape, returns by its elasticity to the former posi- 
tion, so that several may thus be caught successively. The Hecla being near 
the point, Mr. Mogg was much in the habit of accompanying the Esquimaux 
to their traps, and remarked that the foxes were very numerous till about 
the end of November, when they began to fall off in number, and the traps 
were less regularly visited than before. A few were however taken in the 
month of December, towards the end of which many of the traps were neg- 
lected, and allowed to fill up with drift. In the early part of January the rest 
were dismantled, but Mr. Mogg caught two after this; one on the 23d of 
January, being a male of a bluish cast, with the tips of its ears and tail 
black ; the other a female larger than the former and beautifully white, taken 
on the 13th of February. Their weight was eight and eight and a half 
pounds, and the temperatures of their bodies when just killed 100$° and 
100°. The foregoing account of the time when these animals were most 
abundant, agrees with what we had before observed at Winter-Island, and 
Mr. Mogg considered their number to have been here fully as great. Some 
of the Esquimaux were thus furnished with outer jackets of fox-skins with 
the fur outside, forming a remarkably clean, comfortable, and handsome-look- 
ing costume, though the material is by no means a durable one. 

The first week of the new year brought a continuance of cold weather: 1323, 
after which, for the succeeding fortnight, the temperature was remarkably J?"""'Y: 
high, the thermometer frequently rising above zero, and once to + 22°, which 
occurred with a fresh easterly breeze and some snow falling. An inspection 
of our Meteorological Abstracts will shew that in this as in every other part 
3D2 


ABSTRACT of the METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL kept on board His Majesty’s Ship 
Fury, at Igloolik, during the Month of December, 1822. 


Fahrenheit’s Ther- ae Prevailing 
mometer, ey Baroweter, Winds, 
¢ g Prevailing Weather. 
3 
a & Direction. Velocity. 


hazy 


fine 


West light cloudy 
NNW light hazy, snow at times 


hazy 


fine 


fine 


fine 


fine 


fine and clear 


West fine and clear 
West 
NW 
West 
NW 
West 
NNW 
N.Easterly | light fine 
NNE 
North fresh elear, with drift 
NW fresh 
NW fresh 
NW 


clear 


fine 


fine 


hazy 


modt. 


clear 


clear 


light fine and clear 


WSW light hazy, and snow 
Westerly light clear 
NW light hazy 
West light fine and clear 
NNW light fine 
Westerly light fine and clear 
West light » fine 
West light fine 


—27.80] 56.5 


| 


| 
—43 
| 


| 
re 


of th 
sione 
riene 
On 
nake« 
fine. 
to loc 
could 
horize 
we di 
of coa 
the qu 
fuel, ° 
was 
the ex 
was p 
this tir 
the ice 
one-ha 
On 
gratific 
in vari 
ing an 
and e} 
patch 
vembe 
particu 
dence, 
nor an 
sion of 
Abo 
from o 
well ag 
had in 
who it 


SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY. 389 


of the polar regions we have yet visited, a southerly or easterly wind occa- Baths 
sioned a rise in the thermometer, while the greatest cold was always expe- w~: 
rienced with the wind in the opposite quarters. 

On the lst of January the star Capella could be kept sight of with the Wed. | 
naked eye till half an hour before noon, the weather being remarkably clear and 
fine. On the 5th, the sky looked so red towards noon that we were induced Sun. 5 
to look out for the sun from the masthead, but without success, though we 
could not help fancying every moment that it was about to burst above the 
horizon. After this the sky was so constantly overcast for a fortnight, that 
we did not obtain a sight of it. In the first week of January, the proportion 
of coals for the main-hatchway stoves was increased to five pecks per day, or 
the quantity for which they were expressly constructed. This proportion of 
fuel, which was now expended for the first time since leaving England, 
was continued for eleven weeks, or till towards the end of March; after which 
the expenditure of coals for this apparatus was gradually diminished, and it 
was permanently discontinued for the season on the 10th of June. About Mon. «. 
this time some more of the Esquimaux shifted their quarters from Igloolik to 
the ice, leaving the permanent huts upon the island new deserted by about 
one-half their inhabitants. 

On the 19th, the weather having at length cleared up, we were once more Su. !¥. 
gratified with a sight of the sun, and numerous parties of walkers were seen 
in various parts of the bay, enjoying the novelty and splendour of this cheer- 
ing and glorious sight. A parhelion also appeared on each side of the sun ; 
and exactly opposite to it near the northern horizon was a large circular 
patch of white light, precisely similar to that described on the 16th of No- 
vember, The Esquimaux who were at the ships to-day before the sun rose, 
particularly said that we should see it, and apparently with great confi- 
dence. It is certain however that on this occasion no sun-dance took place, 
nor any other festivity of the kind described by Crantz *; their only expres- 
sion of satisfaction at this event being of the same general nature as our own. 

About this time the accounts from the huts, as well from the Esquimaux as Tues. 21. 
from our own people, concurred in stating that the number of the sick, as 
well as the seriousness of their complaints, was rapidly increasing there. We 
had indeed scarceiy heard of the illness of a woman named Kei-moo-seuk, 
who it seemed had lately miscarried, when an account arrived of her death. 


* Crantz, I, 76 


1823. 
January. 
P\w 


Wed, 22, 


390 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


She was one of the two wives of Ooyarra, one of Captain Lyon’s fellow- 
travellers in the summer, who buried her in the snow about two hundred 
yards from the huts, placing slabs of the same perishable substance over the 
body, and cementing them by pouring a little water in the interstices. Such 
an interment was not likely to be a very secure one, and accordingly a few 
days after, the hungry dogs removed the snow, and devoured the body. 

We had also heard of the indisposition of a woman named Pootoo-d-look, 
the wife of Takkee-likkee-ta, and the accounts of her being now more un- 
favourable than before, Captain Lyon drove out to the huts on the 22d, ac- 
companied by Mr. Mac Laren, to see and endeavour to relieve her. They 
found her in an extremely debilitated state, and her child, which was about 
three years of age, lying under the same skin, apparently almost starved in 
consequence of its mother’s inability to suckle it. After feeding them both 
with a little arrow-root, Captain Lyon desired the man to come to the ships 
the next day for some medicines, as well as for some blankets to add to 
their warmth and dryness. On entering one of the bone huts, Captain 
Lyon discovered a log of wood forming a transverse beam above the 
entrance: on examination it proved to be of fir, without bark, from four 
to five feet in length, about eight inches in diameter, and having no appear- 
ance of being eaten by worms. The Esquimaux informed him that it had 
been picked up on the island of Neerlo-nakto, but did not trouble them- 
selves to form any conjecture from whence it came. This circumstance is 
principally worth mentioning for the sake of introducing a much more sin- 
gular one, that, during five summers’ navigation on or about the north- 
eastern coast of the American continent, we have never met with one piece 
of drift-wood floating in the sea. 

While speaking on this subject, I may not improperly add what has been 
the result of numerous inquiries respecting the wood which, as we under- 
stood the Esquimaux, was said to grow at or near Akkoolee. It appeared from 
some conversations with these people after our arrival at Igloolik, that, 
upon the north-west point of an island on that coast, called Seat-toke, a 
considerable quantity of wood of large dimensions is found; but so dif- 
ficult is this place of access that, of all the Esquimaux of whom we have a 
personal knowledge, it is extremely doubtful whether a single individual 
has ever been there, and the information is, therefore, entirely from hear- 
say. Ewerat, who was the clearest in his account of it, and who derived 
all his information on this subject from a very old man now living, but not 


StS Sa 


thi 


at 


ho 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 391 


personally known to us, assured me, as many others had done, that wood 


was abundant at the place above alluded to. He explained, however, pretty w~ 


intelligibly, that it did not grow there, as we had at first been given to 
understand ; and upon the whole it seems most probable that the wood of 
which the Esquimaux speak is drift-wood. That wood should occur in one spot 
only out of a large extent of coast, suggested to us at the time the idea that 
it might have been brought there by the current of some river setting it 
down from the interior of the continent, as on the northern shores of Asia 
and Europe. The researches of Captain Franklin, however, with which we 
were then unacquainted, have furnished a more satisfactory mode of account- 
ing for this fact; the wood being probably deposited at Seat-toke by the 
current observed to set from the westward along the northern coast of 
America, and bringing with it quantities of drift-wood seen by Captain 
Franklin on those shores along which his late extraordinary canoe-navigation 
was performed. 


On the 23d Takkee-likkee-ta came to the Hecla according to his promise, Thur. 23. 


and was supplied with various comforts for his wife and child. As how- 
ever their principal want of comfort arose from the coldness and moisture of 
their present quarters, Captain Lyon proposed to him to bring them to the 
Hecla. To this the man joyfully assented and, being furnished with 
a sledge and dogs, soon brought the invalids on board, where they were 
comfortably lodged in Captain Lyon’s cabin, and attended with all the 
care that their situation required, and that humanity could suggest. Besides 
the child that was ill, another also accompanied them named Sheéga, a 
pleasing and uncommonly intelligent girl about eleven years of age, whom 
we now found to have been one of the individuals I saw in Lyon Inlet 
during the summer of 1821. In the evening I sent my servant to the vil- 
lage, for the purpose of going into all the huts (which from the lowness and 
indescribable filth of the passages was no easy or pleasant task) to see what 
other sick there might be. He reported, on his return, that a young man 
named Piccooyak, a great favourite with our officers and ship's company, was 
in a very weak condition, and that his wife and another female were lying 
beside him to keep him warm, at the same time crying most piteously. 


Early on the following ‘morning, therefore, I despatched Mr, Crawford on Frid, 24. 


the sledge to bring Piccooyak to the ship; but alas! his miseries here were 
at an end, for he had breathed his last on the preceding evening within an 
hour after we had first been informed of his illness! His wife Kaga, a 


1823, 
anuary. 


d 
1 
# 

ne 
i 


“ hil 
ti} 
| 
if ‘aa 
Phy t { 
ah, ‘ eh 
) | t ‘ | 
i | (Bn | 
' a | 
i" i j 
A 4 H | 
4 Dee 
1} | 
us | 
} ae 


Kees a 


392 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


eee _ young woman lately brought to bed, was lying about in the snow beside the 

‘ov road, and making lamentations that bespoke much more sincere grief than 
the cutting off of hair, which the widows here did not always practise + 
We did not, however, at this time know what bitter cause of lamentation 
this event was to prove to poor Kaga. 

Mr. Crawford thought he could not now better execute his instructions 

than in bringing to the ship a young man of the name of Kooeetseek, who 
was very much debilitated by the long continuance of a rheumatic com- 
plaint ; he was accordingly lodged in our sick bay together with his sister, 
an intelligent child about nine years of age, named Kirko-wartoo, who accom- 
panied him as his nurse, The latter soon became domesticated among u- 
and, being well cleaned and dressed in European clothes, amused us greatly 
by her vivacity and intelligence. Indeed it required no long acquaintance 
with this poor child, to convince us that art and education might easily have 
made her equal or superior to ourselves, or, as some of our gentlemen at 
the time remarked, that there were in reality more shades of dirt than of any 
other difference subsisting between us. 
. Scarcely had these arrangements been made on board the Fury, when we 
heard of the death of Captain Lyon’s patient, her extremely debilitated 
state rendering it impossible to rally her by any means that could be devised. 
The circumstances attending the death and burial of this poor woman and 
her child, affording an insight into some of the customs of the Esquimaux 
on these occasions, are thus related by Captain Lyon, to whom I am in- 
debted for the account. 


* The mother Poo-too-alook was about thirty-five years of age, the child 
about three years—yet not weaned, anda female ; there was also another 
daughter Shega, about twelve or thirteen years of age, who as well as 
her father was a most attentive nurse. My hopes were but small as far as 
concerned the mother, but the child was so patient that I hoped from its 
docility soon to accustom it to soups and nourishing food, as its only com- 
plaint was actual starvation. I screened off a portion of my cabin, and 
arranged some bedding for them, in the same manner as the Esquimaux 
do their own. Warm broth, dry bedding, and a comfortable cabin did 


yme,.: 


at 
{ 
j * 
BS, 
i Pe 
13 
Fs A 
a 
i i ant 
4 Bib 
i 
} + 
ae BS, 
+) ibe f| 
| 29 
1 EE BS 
EE Bee *y 
/ i iy ‘4 
a4 4 
| j ar 
| ‘ # 
| BL i 
{ 
i {Ee he nib; 
i 
: f 
+i ’. 
| 4 a 
} ; 
H 7 
i 5 : 
aa ri 
" 
5 f 
S§ od 
i j 
t d 
a a 
H ¥ 
bia eae. 
y Bat ia 
a te 
5 
} 
‘ 
44] 
) 
1: eam 
} Pe 
fe { 4 
; 
( ‘ 
wali) 
; 
; et 
ae e 
yd 3 
i i 
ot eee 
Bi Ue 
a | 
i ee 
) Peed t 
iw ip ' 
i} } 
fi} ¥ 
Thin 
; A 
| 
} 


* Crantz, I. 138, 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 393 


wonders before evening, and our medical men gave me great hopes. As an 
introduction to a system of cleanliness, and preparatory to washing the sick 
who were in a most filthy state, 1 scrubbed Shega and her father from head 
to foot and dressed them in new clothes. During the night I persuaded 
both mother and child, who were very restless and constantly moaning, to 
take a few spoonfuls of soup. On the morning of the 24th the woman ap- 
peared considerably improved, and she both spoke and ate alittle. As she 
was covered with so thick a coating of dirt that it could be taken off in 
scales, I obtained her assent to wash her face and hands a little before noon. 
The man and his daughter now came to my table to look at some things I 
had laid out to amuse them; and after a few minutes Shega lifted the curtain 
to look at her mother, when she again let it fall and tremblingly told us she 
was dead. 

‘“‘ The husband sighed heavily, the daughter burst into tears, and the poor 
little infant made the moment more distressing by calling in a plaintive tone 
on its mother, by whose side it was lying. I determined on burying the 
woman on shore, and the husband was much pleased at my promising that 
the body should be drawn on a sledge by men instead of dogs; for to our 
horror Takkelikkeeta had told.me that dogs had eaten part of Keimooseuk, 
and that when he left the huts with his wife one was devouring the body as 
he passed it. 

‘‘ Takkeelikkeeta now prepared to dress the dead body, and in the first 
place stopped his nose with deer’s hair and put on his gloves, seeming 
unwilling that his naked hand should come in contact with the corpse. I 
observed in this occupation his care that every article of dress should be 
as carefully placed as when his wife was living, and having drawn the boots 
on the wrong legs, he pulled them off again and put them properly ; this cere- 
mony finished, the deceased was sewed up ina hammock, and at the hus- 
band’s urgent request her face was left uncovered. An officer who was 
present at the time agreed with me in fancying that the man, from Lis words 
and actions, intimated a wish that the living child might be enclosed with 
its mother, We may have been mistaken, but there is an equal probability 
that we were right in our conjecture ; for according to Crantz and Egede 
the Greenlanders were in the habit of burying their motherless infants from 
a persuasion that they must otherwise starve to death, and also from being 
unable to bear the cries of the little ones while lingering for several days 
without sustenance ; for no woman will give them any share of their milk 

8 E 


1823. 
January. 
Od 


24. 


ea ET ge 


394 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE ISCOVERY 


which they consider as the exclusive property of their own offspring. 
My dogs being carefully tied up at the man’s request, a party of our 
people accompanied by me drew the body to the shore, where we made a 
grave about a foot deep, being unable to get lower on account of the frozen 
earth. The body was placed on its back at the husband’s request, and he 
then stepped into the grave and cut all the stitches of the hammock, although 
without throwing it open, seeming to imply that the dead should be left 
unconfined. I laid a woman’s knife by the side of the body and we filled up 
the grave, over which we also piled a quantity of heavy stones which no animal 
could remove. When all was done and we retumed to the ship, the man 
lingered a few minutes behind us and repeated two or three sentences, as if 
addressing himself to his departed wife; he then silently followed. We 
found Shega quite composed and attending her littlé sister, between whose 
eye-brows she had made a spot with soot, which I learned was because 
being unweaned it must certainly die. During the night my little charge 
called on its mother without intermission, yet the father slept as soundly 
until morning as if nothing had happened. 

** All who saw my patient on the morning of the 25th gave me great 
hopes ; she could swallow easily and was even strong enough to turn or sit 
upright without assistance, and in the forenoon slept very soundly. At 
noon the sister of the deceased, Ootooguak, with her husband and son, 
came to visit me. She had first gone to the Fury and was laughing on 
deck and at her own request was taken below, not caring to hurry herself 
to come to the house of mourning. Even when she came to the Hecla, she 
was in high spirits, laughing and capering on deck as if nothing had hap. 
pened, but on being shewn to my cabin, where Shega having heard of her 
arrival was sitting crying in readiness, she began with her niece to howl 
most wofuily. I however put a stop to this ceremony, for such it certainly 
was, under the plea of its disturbing the child. The arrival of a pot of 
smoking walrus-flesh soon brought smiles on all faces but that of Takkeelik- 
keeta, who refused food and sat sighing deeply ; the others ate, chatted, and 
laughed, as if nothing but eating was worth thinking of. Dinner being 
over, I received thanks for burying the woman in such a way that “ neither 
wolves, dogs, nor foxes could dig her up and eat her,” for all were full of 
the story of Keimooseuk, and even begged some of our officers to go to 
Igloolik and shoot the offending dogs. A young woman named Ablik, 
sister to Ooyarra, was induced after much entreaty and a very large present 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 395 


of beads, to offer her breast to the sick child, but the poor little creature 
pushed it angrily away. Another woman was asked to do the same, but 
although her child was half weaned she flatly refused. 

“‘ The aunt of my little one seeming anxious to remain, and Shega being 
now alone, I invited her to stop the night. In the evening the child took meat 
and jelly and sat up to help itself, but it soon after resumed its melancholy 
cry for its mother. At night my party had retired to sleep, yet I heard 
loud sighing occasionally, and on lifting the curtain I saw Takkeelikkeeta 
standing and looking mournfully at his child. I endeavoured to compose 
him and he promised to go to bed, but hearing him again sighing in a few 
minutes, I went and found the poor infant was dead, and that its father had 
been some time aware of it. He now told me it had seen its mother the last 
time it called on her, and that she had beckoned it to Khil-la, (Heaven) on 
which it instantly died. He said it was “ good” that the child was gone, 
that ‘no children out-lived their mothers, and that the black spot which 
Shega had frequently renewed was quite sufficient to ensure the death of 
the infant. 

‘“« My party made a hearty breakfast on the 26th, and I observed they did 
not scruple to lay the vessel containing the meat on the dead child, which I 
had wrapped in a blanket ; and this unnatural table excited neither disgust 
nor any other feeling amongst them more than a block of wood could have 
done. We now tied up all the dogs as Takkeelikkeeta desired, and took the 
child about a quarter of a mile astern of the ships to bury it in the snow; 
for the father assured me that her mother would cry in her grave if any 
weight of stones or earth pressed on her infant. She herself, he feared, 
had already felt pain from the monument of stones which we had laid upon 
her. The snow in which we dug the child’s grave was not above a foot 
deep, yet we were not allowed to cut into the ice or even use any slabs of it 
in constructing the little tomb. The body wrapped in a blanket, and having 
the face uncovered, being placed, the father put the slings by which its de- 
ceased mother had carried it, on the right side, and in compliance with the 
Esquimaux custom of burying toys and presents with their dead, I threw in 
some beads. A few loose slabs of snow were now placed so as to cover 
without touching the body, and with this very slight sepulchre the father 
was contented, although a fox could have dug through it in half a minute. 
We however added more snow, and cemented all by pouring about twenty 
buckets of water, which were brought from the ship, on every part of the 

3ES 


1823. 


anuary. 
Gd 


oe 


3 pane: ie art 


ecg > yen ANA tet aac tt tise 


Bees ee 


2 apis te 


tg 


Fee a 


1823, 
January. 
ww 


396 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


mound. I remarked that before our task was completed the man turned 
and walked quietly to the ships. 

‘* During the two last days, I obtained some information with respect 
to mourning ceremonies, or at all events such as related to the loss of a 
mother of a family ; three days were to be passed by the survivors with- 
out their walking out on the ice, performing any kind of work, or even 
having any thing made for them. Washing is out of the question with 
Esquimaux at most times, but now I was not allowed to perform the 
necessary ablutions of their hands and faces, however greasy or dirty they 
might be made by their food; the girl’s hair was not to be put in pig-tails, 
and every thing was neglected; Takkeelikkeeta was not to go sealing 
until the summer. With the exception of an occasional sigh from the 
man, there were no more signs of grief; our mourners ate, drank, and 
were merry, and no one would have supposed they ever had wife, mother, 
or sister. When the three days, and it is singular that such should be the 
time, were expired, the man was to visit the grave; and having talked 
with his wife, all duties were to be considered as over. The 28th was our 
third day, but a heavy northerly gale and thick drift prevented our visiting 
the grave. The 29th, although not fine, was more moderate and I accom- 
panied him at an early hour. Arriving at the grave, he anxiously walked up 
to it aid carcfully ‘sought for foot-tracks on the snow, but finding none 
repeated to himself, ‘‘ No wolves, no dogs, no foxes, thank ye, thank ye.” 
He now began a conversation which he directed entirely to the grave, as if 
addressing his wife. He called her twice by name, and twice told her how 
the wind was blowing, looking at the same time in the direction from 
whence the drift was coming. He next broke forth into a low monotonous 
chaunt and, keeping his eyes fixed on the grave, walked slowly round it in 
the direction of the sun four or five times, and at each circuit he stopped 
afew moments at the head. His song was, however, uninterrupted. At the 
expiration of about eight minutes, he stopped, and turning suddenly round 
to me, exclaimed ‘“ Tiigwd,” (that’s enough) and began walking back to the 
ship. In the song he chaunted I could frequently distinguish the word Koy- 
enna, (thank you) and it was occasionally coupled with the Kabloonas. Two 
other expressions, both the names of the spirits or familiars of the Annatko, 
Toolemak, were used a few times; but the whole of the other words were 
perfectly unintelligible to me. 

‘¢ IT now sent Shega and her father home, well clothed and in gvod case. 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 397 


The week they had passed on board was sufficient time to have gained them 
the esteem of every one, for they were the most quiet inoffensive beings I ever 
met with, and to their great credit they never once begged. The man was 
remarkable for his extraordinary fondness for treacle, sugar, salt, acids, and 
spruce-beer, which the others of the tribe could not even smell without 
disgust ; and he walked about to the different messes in hopes of being 
treated with these delicacies. Shega was a timid well-behaved girl, and 
generally remained ‘eating in my cabin, for I am confident of speaking far 
within bounds when I say she got through eight pounds of solids per diem. 
As far as gratitude could be shewn by Esquimaux, which is saying ‘ koyenna’ 
on receiving a present, my friends were sensible of the attentions I had 
shewn them.” 


We were ‘to-day informed that the corpse of Picooyak had fared even 
worse than that of Keimooseuk. The same snow-covering being put over the 
body, a second disinterment was as easily effected a day or two afterwards, 
and another meal made by the hungry dogs. In relating this story, at 
which every feeling of common humanity revolts, the Esquimaux pretended 
to be very much enraged at the dogs, and to let some of our gentlemen 
know that they wished the Kabloonas would shoot them. As however it 
was not the owners of the dogs who expressed this wish, and as we con- 
sidered a knife quite as effectual in killing a dog as a gun would be, if 
applied with equal good will, we did not think proper to inflict such a 
punishment, which, if due at all, would more properly have fallen on those 
who made the complaint. It is most certain indeed, that none but the 
immediate relatives of the deceased cared a jot about the matter; nor 
did the other individuals among them hesitate to laugh as they heard or 
told the story. On some of our people going out to the village they found 
that Piccoyak’s child had died, owing probably to the misery and consequent 
inattention of its mother Kaga, who now lived as before with the infirm and 
aged parents of her late husband. 

From the morning of the 24th till midnight on the 26th, the mercury in 
the barometer was never below 30.82 inches, and at noon on the latter day 
had reached 30.52 inches, which was the highest we had yet observed it 
in the course of this voyage. This unusual indication of the barometer was 


followed by hard gales on the 27th and 28th, first from the S.W. and after- 27 & 28. 


1823. 


January. 


Lt Sad 


i he ie 
eeagaNORY HA ee 


398 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY. 


rset wards from the N.W., the mercury falling from 30.51 inches at eight P.M. 


“~~ on the 26th, to 30.25 about five A.M. on the 27th, or about 0.26 of an inch 
in nine hours, before the breeze came on. At midnight on the 27th it had 
reached 29.80, and on the following night 29.05, which was its minimwn 
indication during the gale. These high winds were accompanied by a rise 
in the thermometer very unusual at this season of the year, the temperature 
continuing above zero for several hours, and very near this point of the scale 
for the whole two days. 

The mean temperature of January proved indeed as remarkable for being 
a high one, as that of the preceding month had been ina contrary way, 
being only — 17°.07, or more than ten degrees warmer than December. The 
first fortnight in February bid fair to present a similar anomaly ; the mild 
weather we now experienced giving us hopes of a winter rather favourable 
than otherwise, notwithstanding the severity with which it had set in. 

We were about this time much shocked to hear, by an arrival from the 
distant huts, of the death of Noogloo, the young man whom I before men- 
tioned as the flower of the whole tribe. His complaint, as far we could 
learn, had been of an inflammatory nature, and was also of some con- 
tinuance ; as Toolemak, who considered him as his adopted son, had been 
out to visit him two or three times, and was much afflicted by his loss. 
There was something peculiarly shocking in the havoc which death appeared 
now to be making among the younger and more vigorous individuals of 
this tribe ; and never does he seem to inflict a more severe blow than when 
he selects such as Noogloo for his victim. 

february Having heard also that Innooksioo was ill at the distant huts, I requested 
Su? Mr, Crozier to call at the village, to endeavour to hire a sledge and a 
conductor to go out to that station to see him, and, if he wished it, to bring 
him on board. In this however he did not succeed, the sledges being prin- 
cipally engaged in the fishing, and their owners absent from the huts. 
Mr. Crozier reporting however that there were still some sick at Igloolik, 
Mon.3. I went there on the following day, and arrived at the huts in time to 
prevent a fine little boy, named Attangut, who was apparently in a dying 
state, from being packed up with the rest of his father’s goods and chattels, 
previous to his departure for the next station. Having suggested to his 
parents that it would be better to place the boy on my sledge, and to send 
him to the ship, than to take him in his present debilitated state still farther 
from our assistance, they joyfully accepted the proposal ; and I accompanied 


S 2 os. oe” os ‘se.’ os” on. 


ABSTRACT of the METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL kept on board His Majesty’s Ship 
Fury, at Igloolik, during the Month of January, 1823. 


oonteoeogrkeeéeekre.#,_wes w= 


Fahrenheit's 
Thermometer, 


Mazi- | Mini- 
mum, | mum. 


&e 
| 
&o 


rc 
7) 


a BNSERB SSE 


Mini- 
mum, 


inches 


inches 


Direction, 


Velocity. 


light and 
variable 


light 
light 
light 
light 
modt. 
fresh 
light 
strong 
modt, 
modt, 
light 
modt. 
fresh 
fresh 
modt. 
light 
modt. 
light 
light 
modt. 
modt. 
light 
light 
light 
light 
fresh 
strong 
fresh 
light 


modt, 


Prevailing 


Weather. 


fine 
clear 
clear 
clear 
clear 
clear 
cloudy 
hazy 
clear and drift 
cloudy 
cloudy 
hazy 
cloudy and drift 
hazy and snow 
hazy and snow 
hazy 
hazy and snow 
hazy and snow 
fine 
fine 
clear 
fine 
fine 
fine 
fine 
fine 
cloudy and drift 
drift 
cloudy and drift 
hazy 
clear 


= 


re Pa 
=: baer er ee ee ms 


400 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY | 


the travelling party to the ice. The road to this new village, to which be- 
fore the middle of February all the people from the bone-huts had removed, 
was now worn as smooth as that between Igloolik and the ships, except 
where it passed over the heavy hummocks and large cracks in the ice near 
the shore. The habitations here were exact counterparts of those at Winter 
Island; and it was quite a relief to enter them, new and clean as they 
were, after the filth of the more durable ones at Igloolik. The ice on 
which the huts stood was near the edge of ‘the squeezed-up or hummocky 
kind, and, from the cracks close to them, was in all probability touching the 
ground in most parts ; while outside of the village there was a smooth level 
floe of considerable extent, over which they travelled to their fishery at its 
margin, where open water still remained at the distance of three miles 
from the shore. It seemed that they would for the sake of convenience 
have carried their abodes further out to sea, but that it was not considered safe 
to venture their whole establishment where the ice was liable to be broken off, 
and drifted away by the tide. There are few people however who care less 
for a walk of considerable length, if they have any object in view in ac- 
complishing it, than the Esquimaux ; in proof of which, in addition to the 
instances already adduced at Winter Island, it may be stated that, on some 
of the most inclement days in this winter, many of the women, and several 
of the children from eight to eleven years of age were in the habit of 
walking to the ships and back again, a distance not less than fourteen miles, 
and sometimes when the road was so covered by snow-drift that it required 
constant attention to keep in the right track. 

On repassing the huts at Igloolik I went to see the parents and widow of 
Piccooyak, who lived together in a hut of snow in a state of very great 
wretchedness. The parents, both of them old and infirm, were sitting in 
one corner with scarcely any clothes upon them, while Kaga lay in another, 
moaning most lamentably, and almost entirely covered with some skins, of 
which neither the kind nor original colour could be distinguished for the dirt 
and grease with which they were besmeared. On my questioning her, she 
after some time looked upand gave me to understand what indeed appeared 
to be the case, that she was not ill but simply wretched; and I could 
plainly perceive that her misery in great part proceeded from the robbery of 
most of her property, as described by Crantz to be the usual fate of widows 
in Greenland *. Indeed of numerous presents which she and her husband 
* Crantz, I, 192. 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 401 


had received on board the ships, not one now remained; and a lamp and _ 1823. 
cooking pot seemed all that her inhuman countrymen had left her, at least February 


of those things which could have been of any service to themselves. There 
was at this time no food in the hut; and the mild weather produced so con- 
stant a dropping from the roof, that had I stayed much longer my own thick 
clothing must have been wet through. I therefore requested the old man 
to accompany me to his son’s grave ; and when there proposed to him to prt 
the body out of the reach of dogs for the future, by burying it in the ground, 
to which with many tears and thanks he willingly consented ; and I promised 
to send out on the following day to make preparations for that purpose. 
When the old man lifted up his son’s spear at the head of the grave, or 
rather of the mound of snow containing his mangled remains, he burst into 
afresh flood of tears; and frequently complaining of what the dogs had 
done, repeated quite in an agony of grief the name of Piccooyak. A day 
or two afterwards I went out according to my promise, and was accompanied 
to the burial-place by the old man, who though he scrupulously avoided 
touching the body, which was in a more mutilated state than ever, directed 
that it should be laid on the back and with the head to the northward. Close 
to the grave lay his spear, some buttons, a string or two of beads, and a small 
drinking-eup, all which the old man begged us to deposit in the same manner 
as before, but would by no means handle himself. He made no objection to 
the body being covered with the soil, which was light ; but a day or two after- 
wards, when I sent one of our gentlemen out to perform a similar office for the 
remains of Keimooseuk, her relations objected to our doing so; explaining that 
when a body was thus buried, the stones ought to be arched over, so as not 
to rest upon it, a method they intended, as they said, to adopt in the spring. 
We had reason to believe, however, from the numerous human skulls found 
near the huts in the summer, that at least in many instances no such trouble 
is taken with the dead; so that by a combination of superstition, indolence, 
and indifference, there can be no doubt that other animals besides dogs are 
permitted not unfrequently to feast upon them. This old man however ex- 
pressed no scruples of any kind: was thankful and composed when the inter- 
ment was completed ; and being afterwards supplied by us with some clothes 
for himself and wife, removed to the ice with the rest and, as we afterwards 
found, existed on the charity of some of the other Esquimaux. 


id 


The account I gave of poor Kaga on my return to the ships, induced Captain Tues. 4. 


Lyon to send out for her, with the hope of at least preserving her health, and 
3¥ 


402 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


vibtomy administering to her comfort until she should shew some symptoms of return. 

r~' ing energy, the want of which seemed at present to be her principal complaint. 
She was accordingly lodged in Captain Lyon’s cabin, and together with a con- 
sumptive looking boy named Allowseuk, who also stood much in need of a warm 
and dry lodging, received every possible kindness and attention. The idea 
which suggested itself respecting Kaga was that if, as we began to fear, the 
condition of widows was as destitute here as in Greenland, it would be a 
charity to endeavour to bring about a match between this her Takkee- 
likkee-ta ; the first step towards which was to rouse her from her present 
apathy, and then to give her such a portion as might add to her value and 
respectability as a wife. The grief however which Takkee-likkee-ta continued 
for some time to express for his late loss, prevented our hinting this scheme to 
him for the present, and in the meantime the other unfeeling Esquimaux 
were permitted to entertain any notion they pleased respccting our inten- 
tions in bringing Kaga to the ships ; for a mere act cf charity they either 
did not or would not understand it to be. 

The Esquimaux who had occasional communication with the distant village, = 
having given us reason to suppose that they meant to bring Innooksioo in to bal 
the ships, it became evident that some more systematic as well as extensive 
means must be resorted to for the relief of their sick, than we had hitherto 
thought of adopting. Captain Lyon’s charity being already very highly taxed 
with a most perverse and thankless patient, as Kaga soon turned out to be, 
while the Fury’s sick-bay began to swarm with lice to such a degree as to render 
it necessary to turn our own men almost entirely out of it, I determined on 
building a hospital within the walls of our square expressly for the reception 
of the natives ; and having proposed it to the officers on whom all the 
trouble would necessarily devolve, a plan for the building, medical attend- 
ance, and victualling was immediately settled, with a degree of cordiality 
and zeal which I can never forget. A house was accordingly constructed 
with spars, turf, snow, and canvass, twelve feet square, having a passage with 
two doors, and containing five convenient bed-places for the sick, and a small 
warming-stove in the centre. All our people being employed about it, Lieu- 
tenant Nias completed the building in a couple of days, at no expense but 
that of labour which could in no way be so well employed. The medical 
and other attendance was arranged by Messrs. Edwards and Skeoch, and a 
stock of sea-horse meat laid in by Mr. Hooper, to furnish any patients that 
might be brought down to the ships. 


ro ee iar Sie 
a yr Lage a 


> 


aS Reh pe oekaace 


jat 


* 
~<a an amet hl nt tnmneetitieead ales 


== = =a —_ —— oo; > 2 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 403 


We to-day placed a Six’s self-registering thermometer in the ground near ae 
° ° ° e ‘j 
the observatory, four feet beneath the surface, the indices being set at + 8°. ww 


It would undoubtedly have been interesting to have ascertained the tempera- 
ture of the earth during the winter, at a much greater depth than this ; but 
to give an idea of the difficulty of doing this, it will only be necessary to state 
that it occupied twenty-seven days to effect what we did, and that at the 
expense of ten pick-axes broken by digging. After the first twenty inches, 
where the soil was quite loose, the ground was literally frozen as hard as a 
rock, so that each blow of the pick-axe brought off only a few splinters ac- 
companied by some white dust. As only one man ould have room to work 
at a time, another foot in depth would probably have occupied two or three 
weeks more in completing, and it was therefore considered advisable to take 
advantage of the present high temperature of the atmosphere to deposit the 
thermometer and close up the hole. The mercury in the barometer once 
more stood as high as 30.52 inches to-day, a light wind blowing from the 
N.N.E., and we had fine weather for two or three succeeding days. 

To give some idea of the number of deer killed by the Esquimaux at the 
proper scason, I may here state that 1 to-day counted on a girdle worn round 
the waist by Toolooak’s mother, twenty-nine ears of that animal, which had 
all been procured by this young man’s own exertions in the course of the last 
summer. His own game of this kind must therefore have amounted to at 
least fifteen deer, and his mother almost constantly wore the girdle as a proud 
trophy of her son’s exploits. There are few mothers indeed who might not 
be proud of such a son as Toolooak, who on longer acquaintance quite 
maintained his former character, of possessing many excellent qualities both 
of head and heart. 


On the 6th Kooeetseek being convalescent was discharged from our sick- Thur. 6. 


bay, and sent on a sledge to the huts, where he soon after regained the 
flesh he had lost, and was as well as ever. He had scarcely left us when 
our expected patient, Innooksioo, arrived with his wife, two young children, 
and all the worldly property they possessed, and was comfortably established 
in the hospital. This man who, when in health, was one of the most lusty 
and vigorous in the tribe, was now so much reduced by illness that his face 
could scarcely be recognised. He was brought to the ship on the sledge of 
old Nannow, who also accompanied him, and continued throughout his 
illness to visit him occasionally. 


On the 8th a trifling circumstance occurred which, however, as it exhibits Sat. s 


3 Fe2 


1823. 
February 
aa 


404 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


a trait of Esquimaux character, I may perhaps be excused for relating. A 
queer old woman, one of our Winter Island acquaintance, brought back 
unasked a silver thimble which Mr. Skeoch suspected her having stolen out 
of his cabin a day or two before. She now without reserve confessed that 
she had taken it, but laughingly told him that, finding it much too small for 
her finger, she had honestly returned it, and concluded with an earnest re- 
quest to be allowed some beads in exchange for it. Their pilferings had 
hitherto been so rare and so trifling, that we could easily wink at this piece 
of petty larceny, which seemed to carry with it its own compensation, by the 
humours of the old lady’s conceit in confessing it. 

Among the traits in these people’s disposition, and the peculiarities in the 
history of their social dealings with one another, which our present inter- 
course served to discover to us, was the circumstance of their being divided 
into two or three parties, which, though never absolutely quarrelling, were 
still on no very cordial terms of intimacy. This party-feeling, and the jea- 
lousies excited by it, were conspicuous on various occasions, and once dis- 
played themselves on a subject the least likely of any to have given uneasi- 
ness to an Esquimaux. One day when Mr. Hooper had been at the trouble 
of going to the huts to cater for our Esquimaux patients, and had purchased 
a considerable quantity of meat, he happened in the evening to tell Innook- 
sioo, who was just then regaining an enormous appetite, of his good success 
in this way ; the latter anxiously asked of whom the meat had been pro- 
cured, aad being told that it was Pootooalook, declared that he would never 
eat a bit of it. Vexatious as this sort of prejudice was likely to prove to us, 
Mr. Hooper fortunately ; .tended to assent to it; and Innooksioo having thus 
satisfied his party-feeling, wisely permitted it to have no farther influence, 
and avoiding all further questions on the su’.ject, had in a few days demo- 
lished his full share of Pootooalook’s meat. 

Thus, conscience freed from every clog, 
Mahometans eat up the hog. 

Some other prejudices exhibited by these people were not to be so easily 
compromised, and therefore occasioned greater trouble. The sick must on 
no account see each other, nor, exccpt in particular cases as before men- 
tioned at Winter Island, be seen by any other person, always, however, 
excepting Kabloonas, to whom the prohibition did not seem to extend. The 
using of a sick person’s drinking-cup, knife, or other utensil by a second 
individual was sure to be vehemently exclaimed against, the invalid being 


alway 
separ 
while 
thaw 
we W 
and t 
per d 
servi 
little 
be ch 
other 
out o 
oppos 
threa 
havin 
asked 
but 
was 
point 

Th 
suppc 
formi 
trivial 
the cl 
my Pp 
conti: 
maux 

Wi 
infirn 
frows 
dispo 
rend 
conce 
resto: 
a fea 
termi 


respe 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 405 


always the first to make the objection. We had therefore to furnish a _1823. 
separate set of things for each person, and Innooksioo was so unhappy oe 
while the boiler of the stove, which held several gallons, was used for 
thawing snow for another person’s consumption as well as his own, that 
we were under the necessity of allowing his wife to burn her own lamp, 
and thus provide him with water at the expense of nearly a gallon of our oil 
per day. One day, however, this ‘prejudice received a very necessary and 
serviceable check. Mr. Skeoch while pouring out some medicine into a 
little glass measure used exclusively for that purpose, and which could not 
be changed for any other, observed Innooksioo beginning to acquaint the 
other patient, for whom the draught was intended, that he had been drinking 
out of the same vessel. Mr. Skeoch perceiving the absolute necessity of 
opposing him in this instance, immediately, and with great seriousness, 
threatened to beat him if he dared to say another word. The other man 
having in part overheard from behind his screen what had been going on, 
asked Innooksioo some question before he would put the vessel to his lips, 
but Mr. Skeoch’s threat having entirely closed those of Innooksioo, no answer 
was returned, the medicine was drank without further hesitation, and this 
point once for all effectually gained. 

These and several other fancies of the Esquimaux combined, as may be 
supposed, to render the hospital duties no sinecure to those engaged in per- 
forming them ; and in thus noticing occurrences in themsel es perhaps so 
trivial and unimportant, I have had in view the double object of illustrating 
the character and disposition of these people, and of doing all the justice in 
my power to those gentlemen who, with unabated patience and assiduity, 
continued to combat every difficulty, resolved if possible to cure the Esqui- 
maux even in spite of. themselves. 

While such were the difficulties attending the management of our public Mon. 10. 
infirmary, Captain Lyon had suffered his full share of annoyance from the 
frowardness of Kaga, who, to the usual unthankfulness of the Esquimaux 
disposition, unfortunately added a degree of self-willed perverseness that 
rendered her wholly intractable, and wore out the patience of all that were 
concerned in attending upon her. Her strength and spirits were now so much 
restored that she could sing when not too sulky, and had made for herself 
a fear-nought jacket, of which she stood much in need, so that it was de- 
termined to send her back to the village; Nuyakka, a man noted for his 
respectability, and who said that his wife was Kaga’s sister, having pro- 


406 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


ak ; mised to lodge and feed the widow in his own hut. She was therefore sent ing o! 
wm back on the 10th upon Captain Lyon’s sledge, having first expressed her could 
gratitude by stealing a knife, which was found concealed under her jacket daily 
at the moment of her departure. pount 
Toolemak, who came to the ships to-day, was extremely low and dejected as pr 
on account of Noogloo’s death, and it was often remarked afterwards that the cravil 
tears stood in his eyes whenever he spoke of that young man. He went Mr. } 
several times into the hospital, asked Innooksioo a number of questions re- bloon: 
specting his lodging and other accommodations, of which he had good sense invari 
enough to see the full value, and sufficient candour to thank us very heartily Sor 
for our attentions. This man furnished the only instance that came under. had s 
our notice, of any thing approaching to superiority acknowledged by the Es. misse 
quimaux. To Toolemak’s opinion and wishes many of the others unques- sake, 
tionably paid considerable deference, and he appeared in many instances to Whet 
be so much better furnished with food than the rest, that he undoubtedly Nuya 
drew occasional supplies from several of the tribe. This distinction, which perha 
went no farther than I have related, and for which he was of course indebted was \ 
to his professional merits, was after all confined to a certain party; the rest Nuya 
of the Esquimaux always listening with extreme satisfaction to any thing and st 
that might be said to Toolemak’s disadvantage, and evidently triumphing On 
in his disgrace. to the 
The Esquimaux had about this time killed several sea-horses and meat and a 
was abundant at the village. They also killed several bears in the course time, 
of the winter, amounting in all to eight or ten, in the space of six or ing o 
seven months ; but none of those animals had been seen near the ships on vertic 
account of our distance from the open water. On 
‘Tues. 11, A brother of Innooksioo’s called Toolooak, a lad about the same age as our man } 
young friend of that name, came to the ships to-day with a severe gash in him ii 
his leg, accidentally inflicted by his own knife; and the wound proving a remai 
deep one and much inflamed, Mr. Edwards recommended his being received Was 8 
into the hospital. Here, however, we had to encounter a fresh series of conta 
perverseness ; for even his own brother objected to his coming into the same breat 
apartment, and it was not without some difficulty that we contrived to get the w 
him established there. Innooksioo, upon the whole, however, proved a any a 
good and tractable patient enough. Some of his tricks were laughable hut, 
because quite inoffensive ; among which was a habit of endeavouring to ex- speci 
cite the compassion of every body that went into the hospital, by complain- now i 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 407 


ing of his stomach being empty, his cheeks fallen in, and in short, if his story |, 


could be told in plain English, that he was in a fair way to be starved. His 
daily established allowance of solid meat was at this time from four to five 
pounds, to which was generally added from one to two or three pounds more 
as presents from his friends ; but even this was not enough to satisfy the 
cravings of his appetite. Finding, however, that no plea of his could induce 
Mr. Hooper to depart from the regular system, and that the rest of the Ka- 
bloonas received his piteous tale with a laugh, in which by-the-by his wife 
invariably joined, he at length ceased his unjust and needless solicitations. 


1823, 
ebruary 
and 


Some of our people going out to the huts on the 12th, found that Nuyakka wed. 12. 


had so ill performed his promise respecting Kaga, that he had already dis- 
missed: her from his own apartment and, either from decency’s or conscience 
sake, had built her a small one communicating with the passage of his own. 
Whether the perverse humours of Kaga, or the caprice or inhumanity of 
Nuyakka had been the occasion of this change, we could not discover ; but 
perhaps each of these had some share in her removal. As, however, she 
was well clothed with the things she had received from the Hecla, and 
Nuyakka, as it appeared, still continued to feed her, we could only look on 
and see how she was to be disposed of. 


On the 15th, some remarkable clouds were hanging over the open water Sat. 15. 


to the eastward, appearing like vast volumes of smoke, curling into rounded 
and almost circular forms. This peculiarity we never observed at any other 
time, though there was constantly a ‘‘ water-sky” in that direction, consist- 
ing of a general and diffused darkness, varied occasionally by numerous 
vertical columns of ‘‘ frost-smoke.” 

On the 19th, Mr. Edwards, on paying a visit to the huts, found a young 
man named Kooeetseearioo so ill, that he thought it better to risk bringing 
him in, than to incur, what now appeared almost certain, his dying if he 
remained at the village. Mr. Edwards afterwards inquired for Kaga, and 
was shewn into her hut, in which however there was so little light and so 
contaminated an atmosphere, that he could neither see any person nor 
breathe the air of the apartment. Having at length succeeded in getting 
the wretched inmate to look up, though without being able to draw from her 
any answer to his questions, he found it impossible to continue longer in the 
hut, and could not therefore ascertain whether she laboured under any 
specific complaint, though her appearance seemed to indicate that she was 


Wed. 19. 


now ill, if not utterly abandoned. On the following day, therefore, when I Thur. 20. 


ee 


1823. 
February 
Pw 


408 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


went out to bring Kooeetseearioo on board, I made another effort to ascer- 
tain this unfortunate creature’s real situation; and as soon as I had arranged 
about the young man’s removal, went into Nuyakka’s hut, to make inquiries 
respecting her. On asking his wife to shew me Kaga’s apartment, she 
laughed rather sneeringly, but did not comply with my request; and had it 
not been for little Shega, who was by at the time and immediately offered 
herself as my guide, I should not easily have accomplished my object. 
Being preceded, however, by this good-natured child, I crept on hands and 
knees through a narrow low passage about ten feet long, at the end of which 
she pointed still onwards, and producing a knife, brought expressly for the 
purpose, fell to work in removing a large slab of snow that covered the door- 
way. Shega then retired, and I with much difficulty pushed myself forward 
thro:gh the low and narrow entrance. The misery which now presented 
itself to my view was such that, though it will not easily be effaced from 
my memory, I am at a loss to convey by description any adequate idea of it. 
The hut was constructed of snow, in the usual form, but without a window ; 
and the light of a miserable single-wicked lamp was just sufficient to inter- 
cept the daylight by blackening the roof, to fill the apartment with smoke, 
and to render the wretchedness as well as “the darkness visible.” The 
diameter of this habitation was about six feet, and its height from four 
to five. At one end of the bed-place lay the wretched Kaga, with a 
stream of blood that seemed to have come from her mouth, frozen, 
together with part of her hair, along the front of the bank of snow 
that formed the bed-place. After several ineffectual attempts to gain her 
attention, in the course of which I began to doubt whether she still lived, 
she at length, with much apparent difficulty, turned her head and exhibited 
a face which it was scarcely possible to recognise. Her eyes were now 
much closed, and even the half-smothered flame of a single wick in the 
lamp near her head seemed oppressive to her sight. In hopes of obtaining 
some information respecting her bodily complaints, I asked her several ques- 
tions; but her answers, when she made any, were uttered in so slow and 
indistinct a tone of voice, that I could not understand a syllable of them. 
Beginning now seriously to feel the effects of the offensive atmosphere of 
the hut, which, if the nature of it could be described, would be little less 
disgusting in the description than in the reality, I was under the necessity 
of quitting this scene of human wretchedness, which exceeded any thing my 
imagination could possibly have pictured. On my returning to Neiseak, the 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 409 


wife of Nuyakka, and reproaching her with the diabolical inhumanity of ate 


thus leaving her sister to perish, she made some excuse which I did not 
understand, but treated the whole matter with a degree of levity and indif- 
ference, of which it is painful to think any human creature capable on such 
an occasion. Placing Kooeetseearioo on my sledge, I now set off for the 
ships, in no very good humour with the humane qualities of the Esquimaux. 

On my return on board, strongly impressed with the misery I had just 
witnessed, I naturally began to consider what could be done to relieve it, 
and I well knew that I should not want assistance in executing any plan 
that might with this view be adopted. The difficulties, however, were nota 
few; for besides the indelicacy of a sick, helpless, and perverse woman 
being attended solely by men, it would be absolutely necessary to build a 
separate apartment for her reception, as Innocksioo, we were well aware, 
would not have.remained in the hospital an how after her admission there. 
Indeed, it was not without some couxing, 2e.d more threaiening, that he 
would allow Kooeetseearioo to be lodged under the same roof with him. 
Determined, however, to make an effort to save this unfortunate wretch, who 
was evidently doomed by her own country-¢<ople to a linge::ng but certain 
death, a separate hut was erected, communicat:ig with the passage of the 
hospital, and a volunteer found among the ship’s company to attend exclu- 


sively to her; while every other necessary arrangement was made for her 


reception by the officers I have before mentioned as so humanely taking 
upon themselves this trouble. 


On the following day Mr. Crozier went out to bring her on board, and on Frid, 21. 


unroofing the hut to remove her to the sledge found, as we suspected, that 
she had been robbed of almost every thing. When lodged in her new 
apartment, where there was light and room to examine her condition, little 
hope appeared of poor Kaga’s recovery ; her debilitated state being such as 
to imply the almost total exhaustion of the vital powers, and her body 


‘reduced in the short space of a few days to a mere skeleton. To shorten a 


story which there is little inducement to prolong, Kaga breathed her last 
on the following day, which event there would have been no charity in 
lamenting, determined as her country people were to let her ultimately 
perish. Nor was her removal to the ships at all to be regretted ; for if it 
were only to give the body a decent and secure burial, something might be 
considered as thus gained. On examination after death, she was found to 
have lost every tooth in her upper jaw, and her gums and the roof of her 
8G 


23 


Le nad 


Sat. 22. 


uary 


1823. 
February 
aw 


March. 
Mon. 3, 


410 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY. 


mouth were quite black with disease, so that whatever supplies might latterly 
have been afforded her she could not eat, and her stomach being quite 
empty, starvation was probably the occasion of her death. Having publicly 
made known her death to the Esquimaux, and allowed the body to remain 
unburied the whole of the following day, to give them an opportunity of 
doing something towards her burial, we placed her remains in a grave near 
the observatory, together with her lamp, the only residue of her original 
property. Not an inquiry was afterwards made about her; and Nuyakka 
now disclaimed any relationship to her, though he had before asserted that 
she was his wife’s sister, and had at least iacitly admitted her claim upon 
them, by offering to take her into his hut. Thus perished a young woman 
not more than three-and-twenty years of age, the victim of the barbarous 
policy or savage inhumanity of her own countrymen! There is something 
peculiarly unpleasant in relating facts which degrade and discredit human 
nature ; but he who professes faithfully to delineate the character and dis- 
position of a people, must be careful not to mutilate facts, or to palliate errors, 
merely for the sake of making a pleasing picture. 

Nothing worthy of notice occurred during the rest of February, which 
month it was gratifying to find presented, as to temperature, a similar ano- 
maly with January, the mean being only — 20°.41, which is probably a high 
one for this latitude. 

On the 3d of March, the Esquimaux were excluded from the Fury for 
some hours, on account of a shovel having been stolen from alongside the 
preceding day. Soon after this, Oo-00-took, a middle-aged man, who had 
seldom visited the ships, was in Mr. Skeoch’s cabin when that gentleman 
explained to him the reason of his countrymen being refused admittance ; 
upon this he became much agitated, trembled exceedingly, and complained 
of being cold. There could be no doubt that he thought Mr, Skeoch had 
dived into his thoughts ; for hastening upon deck, he was a minute or two 
afterwards detected in bringing back the lost shovel from the place where 
he had buried it behind our wall. A day or two before this occurrence, 
Captain Lyon had in a manner somewhat similar recovered a knife that 
had been stolen from him, for which, by way of punishment, the offender 
was consigned to solitary confinement for some hours in the Hecla's coal- 
hole. As, however, the Esquimaux only laughed at this as a very good 
joke, and as the time was shortly coming when numerous loose stores must 
be exposed upon the ice near the ships, I determined to make use of the 


ABSTRACT of the METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL kept on board His Majesty’s Ship 
Fury, at Igloolik, during the Month of February, 1823. 


Fahrenheit’s . Prevailing 
Thermometer, Barometer. Winds. Prevailing 


Weather, 


Day 
Maxi- | Mini- 
‘pum, mum. | Mean. . m Mean. Direction. 


‘30-02 30.158 fine and clear 
80.15 | 30.178 drift 
80.27 | 30.380 A cloudy 
$0.49 | 30.602 i cloudy 
30.22 | 30.347 ? clear 
29.90 | 30.060 clear 
20.75 | 20.802 North fine 
20.75 | 29.760 North cloudy 


coor’ csc 2 & & 


29.79 | 20.850 NW cloudy 


| 


30.01 | 30.115 | Westerly fine and clear 
29.94 | 80.065 | WbN hazy 
| 


20.73 phieed NW hazy 
20.72 nan | NNW fine 


29.62 | 20.651 clear and drift 
2.82 | 20.306 | cloudy 
20.82 | 20.332 | fine 
20,37 | 20.470 | clear and drift 
20.61 | 20.602 clear 
20.78 | 20.787 clear 
29.63 | 20.042 fine 
29,60 | 20,602 clear 
20,45 | 20.516 clear 
29.62 | 20.002 clear 
29.75 | 20.700 clear 
29.71 | 20,782 fine and clear 
20.46 | 20.628 hazy and drift 
20.72 | 20.016 clear 
29.060 fine 


&éesexess2zeee8e88 


Wed, 5. 


412 


SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


present well-authenticated instance of theft, in trying the effect of some 
more serious penalty. The delinquent was therefore put down into the 
Fury’s store-room passage, and closely confined there for several hours ; 
when having collected several of the natives on board the Fury, I ordered 
him to be stripped and seized up in their presence, and to receive a dozen 
lashes on the back with a cat-o'-nine-tails. The instant this was over, his 
countrymen called out very earnestly, ‘ Timun, timunna,” (That’s right, 
that’s right,) and seemed much relieved from the fright they had before 
been in while the fate of the thief seemed doubtful; but in three minutes 
after not one of them was to be found near the ships, for they hur. 
ried off to the huts as fast as their legs and sledges could carry them. 
This example proved just what we desired; in less than eight-and-forty 
hours, men, women, and children came to the ships with the same confidence 
as before, always abusing Oo-oo0-took, pronouncing themselves and us 
uncommonly good people, but evidently more cautious than before of really 
incurring our displeasure. The occurrence just related, instead of being 
placed to the account of these people’s bad propensities, rather served to 
remind us of the rareness of such occurrences, and therefore to furnish fresh 
proof of their. general honesty. It can, indeed, be scarcely doubted, that 
few if any savages would have withstood so many temptations to dishonesty 
as these Esquimaux had for months together been exposed to, without a 
single instance of theft occurring. 

This incident explained in some degree the meaning of the custom before 
mentioned, of stroking down the front of their jackets with the palm of the 
hand, which we observed them practise here on our first acquaintance. 
Oo-oo0-took did this so frequently at the times when he was most frightened, 
and also the other Esquimaux during his punishment, that little doubt re- 
mained of its being in part meant to imply submission. 

The Esquimaux were about this time rather badly off for food, in conse- 
quence of the winds having of late been unfavourable for their fishery ; but 
this had only occurred two or three times in the course of the winter, and 
never so much as to occasion any great distress. It is certain indeed, that the 
quantity of meat which they procured between the Ist of October and the 
Ist of April, was sufficient to have furnished about double the population of 
working people, who were moderate eaters, and had any idea of providing 
for a future day ; but to individuals who can demolish four or five pounds at 


a sitti 
thoug 
there 
scarcit 
which 
ject t 
during 
or not 
particu 
lying i 
they 
solely 
reason 
stay at 
much 
occurre 
the cor 
of real 
obtaini 
food b 
the lite 
them te 
Our 
which | 


* Le 
matter o 
supplied 
given to 
sider the 


The flu 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 413 


a sitting, and at least ten in the course of a day*, and who never bestow a 


1823, 
March. 


thought on to-morrow, at least with the view to provide for it by economy, ww 


there 13 svarcely any supply which could secure them from occasional 
scarcity. It is highly probable that the alternate feasting and fasting to 
which the gluttony and improvidence of these people so constantly sub- 
ject ther, may have occasioned many of the complaints that proved fatal 
during the winter; and ont his account we hardly knew whether to rejoice 
or not at the general success of their fishery. Certain it is, that on a 
particular occasion of great plenty, one or two individuals were seen 
lying in the huts so distended by the quantity of meat they had eaten, that 
they were unable to move, and were suffering considerable pain arising 
solely from this cause. Indeed it is difficult to assign any other probable 
reason for the lamentable proportion of deaths that took place during our 
stay at Igloolik, while, during a season of nearly equal severity, and of 
much greater privation as to food, at Winter Island, not a single death 
occurred, Notwithstanding their general plenty, there were times in 
the course of this winter, as well as the last, when our bread dust was 
of real service to them, and they were always particularly desirous of 
obtaining it for their younger children, They distinguished this kind of 
food by the name of Adnibroot, and biscuit or soft bread by that of shegalak, 
the literal meaning of which terms we never could discover, but supposed 
them to have some reference to their respective qualities. 


Our lengthened acquaintance with the Esquimaux and their language, Frid. 7. 


which a second winter passed among them afforded, gave us an opportunity 


* Lest it should be thought that this account is exaggerated, I may here state that, as a 
matter of curiosity, we one day tried how much a lad scarcely full grown, would, if freely 
supplied, consume in this way. The under-mentioned articles were weighed before being 
given to him; he was twenty hours in getting through them, and certainly did not con- 
sider the quantity extraordinary. 

Sea-horse flesh, hard frozen . . . . . . 4 4 
Ditto, boiled . . . 2. 2. +s 1 44 
Bread and bread-dust . . . . . «. « « DW 


Total of solids . . . . 10 4 
The fluids were in fair proportign, viz., 


Rich gravy-soup, . . . . . « + + + 2} pint. 
Raw spirits... « . 6 6 6 + + + 68 Wine-glasses, 
Strong grog «6 6 1 ee ee + eh) 6D tumbler, 


Water. 6 6 6 6 ew ee ee ee) @ 6D gallon 1 pint, 


m 7 
: 
i , 
ind 
| 
aie 
ja 
an 
+> ‘ 
ota 
ie 
i 
F 
+ t 
t 
} 


1823. 
March. 
wan 


414 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


of occasionally explaining to them in some measure in what direction our 
country lay, and of giving them some idea of its distance, climate, popula- 
tion, and productions. It was with extreme difficulty that these people had 
imbibed any correct idea of the superiority of rank possessed by some indi- 
viduals among us; and when at length they came into this idea they naturally 
measured our respective importance by the riches they ‘supposed each to 
possess. The ships they considered as a matter of course to belong to Cap- 
tain Lyon and myself, and on this account distinguished them by the names 
of Lyon-oomiak and Paree-oomiak ; but they believed that the boats and other 
parts of the furniture were the property of various other individuals among us; 
they ~vere therefore not a little surprised to be seriously assured that neither 
the one nor the other belonged to any of us, but to a much richer and more 
powerful person, to whom we all paid respect and obedience, and at whose 
command we had come to visit and enrich the Inuwees. Ewerat, on account 
of his steadiness and intelligence, as well as the interest with which he lis- 
tened to any thing relating to Kabloonas, was particularly fit to receive infor- 
mation of this nature ; and a general chart of the Atlantic Ocean, and of the 
lands on each side, immediately conveyed to his mind an idea of the distance 
we had come, and the direction in which our home lay. This and similar 
information was received by Ewerat and his wife with the most eager 
astonishment and interest, not merely displayed in the “ hei-ya!” which 
constitutes the usual extent of Esquimaux admiration, but evidently enlarg- 
ing their notions respecting the other parts of the world, and creating in 
them ideas which could never before have entered their minds. By way 
of trying their inclinations, I asked them if they would consent to leave their 
own country and, taking with them their children, go to live in ours, where 
they would see no more Jnnuces, and never eat any more seal or walrus. To 
all this they willingly agreed, and with an earnestness that left no doubt of 
their sincerity ; Togolat adding in an emphatic manner, ‘‘ Shagloo ooagoot nao” 
(we do not tell a falschood,) an expression of peculiar force among them. 
The eagerness with which they assented to this proposal made me almost 
repent my curiosity, and I was glad to get out of the scrape by saying, that 
the great personage of whom I had spoken, would not be pleased at my taking 
them home, without having first obtained his permission. Information of 
the kind alluded to was subsequently given to many of the other Esquimaux, 
some of whom could at length pronounce the name of “ King George,” so 
as to be tolerably intelligible. 


On 
almos 
now’s 
mome 
the m 
this t 
was n 
Innoo 
pital. 
that w 
patie 
as he 


appee 
some 


cordie 

A 
Esqui 
stance 
Lyon 
ing th 
side o 
of Ese 
and n 
famili 
gratio 
fifty i 
may d 
haps « 
can ii 
hesite 
ten ti 

Th 
fortak 
We Be 
whicl 
certa’ 
was @ 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 415 


On the Sth Innooksio, who had quite recovered from his complaint, and had 
almost regained his former strength and looks, left us for the huts on Nan- 
now’s sledge. The impatience of these people to be out in the open air the 
moment they are free from pain, is always extreme, and constitutes one of 
the many difficulties of completing their cure. Kooeetseearioo was just at 
this time suffering from a relapse occasioned by this impatience, to which 
was now added a new cause of disquietude, produced by the anticipation of 
Innooksioo’s departure, and the fear of sleeping keseemee (alone) in the hos- 
pital. The apprehensions which he expressed on this subject were so great, 
that we determined to remove him into our sick-bay, as he was now our only 
patient ; but this was done on condition of his drinking as much lemon-juice 
as he was desired, some pretty unequivocal symptoms of scurvy having now 
appeared in him. Innooksioo behaved very well at his departure, thanked 
some of our gentlemen for their kindness to him with great appearance of 
cordiality, and in short left us exactly as we could have wished. 


1823. 
March. 
waw 
Sat. 8. 


A number of walruses and of the seals of both kinds caught by the Tues. 11. 


Esquimaux about this time, were observed to be with young, which circum- 
stance we had also noticed at the same season the preceding year. Captain 
Lyon procured the head of a small walrus, remarkable on account of its hav- 
ing three tusks, all very short, but two of them close together on the right 


side of the jaw, and placed one behind the other. On the 12th two families Wed. 1. 


of Esquimaux left Igloolik for Ar/agnuk, a part of the land to the southward, 
and near Ping-it-kalik, where the walruses were said to be abundant, Other 
families soon after removed to this station, towards which the tide of emi- 
gration seemed now to be turned, and before the close of March about 
fifty individuals had fixed their abode there. In these movements necessity 
may during the winter have considerable share; but in the summer it is per- 
haps only the love of change, for which most savages are distinguished, that 
can induce them to leave Igloolik, the shores of which there need be no 
hesitation in asserting would easily supply a population, even of Esquimaux, 
ten times greater than theirs with food in profuse abundance. 


The weather was now so pleasant, and the temperature in the sun so com: Thur. 13, 


fortable to the feelings when a shelter could be found from the wind, that 
we set up various games for the people, such as cricket, foot-ball, and quoits, 
which some of them played for many hours during the day. There isa 
certain sallowness in the looks of people living much by candle-light, which 
was always very perceptible in our officers and men during the winter, but 


Frid. 14, 


Mon. 17, 


Wed. 19, 


416 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


which wore off generally with the returning spring. The sun now indeed 
began to be somewhat glaring and oppressive to the eyes on first coming 
into daylight ; and before the end of March some crape was issued to be worn 
as veils, a protection of which most persons were already glad to avail them- 
selves, A thermometer exposed to the sun on the south side of the observa- 
tory on the 14th, indicated +18°, while another suspended freely without 
any shelter‘ from the wind, stood at zero, that in the shade being at — 9° at 
the time. 

The mercury in the barometer rose to 30.84 inches at ten P.M. this day, 
being nearly the highast indication of this instrument we had ever registered 
in the polar regions *. This occurred with light winds between the north 
and east and a clear sky, except about the western horizon, over which a 
dense darkish cloud hung during the whole day. At night indeed, when 
the mercury stood the highest, we experienced for the first time this season 
a dense fog, which for several hours obscured objects at the distance of two 
or three hundred yards. The mercury fell very gradually from this time, 
but so slowly that it had not reached thirty inches till noon on the 22d, 
during the whole of which time we enjoyed delightful weather. 

Mr. Mogg having accompanied some of the Esquimaux on their fishing 
excursion to the margin of the land-ice, in hopes of shooting some dovekies 
which they reported to be numerous there, found that a floe of young ice 
too weak to bear their weight, had lately formed so as ‘to prevent their 
getting to the water. A number of sea-horses being seen on the sea-ice 
beyond this, the Esquimaux in their anxiety to approach them, as a last re- 
source, tried the strength of the ice by putting a young dog upon it, by which 
they nearly drowned the little animal, without at length succeeding in their 
endeavours. 

On the 21st a woman named Ootooguak, who had been brought to the hos- 
pital in a very weak state, and had been gradually sinking for some days 
past, died, without struggle or apparent pain of any kind. A short time be- 
fore her death, of the approach of which both she and her husband were 
well aware, she took Mr. Skeoch’s hand, and grasping it between hers with 
all the strength she then possessed, pressed it to her lips as.an evident ac. 
knowledgment of his attention toher. There is something peculiarly affect- 
ing in such an acknowledgment at a moment like this. Ootooguak had she 


* The mercury stood at 30.86 inches at Melville Island, on the 27th of April, 1820. 


recov 
feeli 
thing: 
mon I 
chara 
who ¢ 
watc 
of his 
hour 
of w 
into t 
joinec 
play ¥ 
she w 
propo: 
cover 
which 
and v 
ments 
sledge 
dogs 1 
instan 
soon { 
to pre 
slabs 

stones 
body 
of her 
quent 
and g 
others 
tende 
stitiou 
expret 
death 
satisfi 
for fi 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 417 


recovered would, it is to be feared, never have evinced her gratitude in so 
feeling and unequivocal a manner; but when death drew near, and the 
things of the world began to lose their value, the better feelings of our com- 
mon nature at once gained the ascendancy, and the selfishness of the savage 
character was lost in the awfulness of the approaching crisis. Her husband 
who observed her take Mr. Skeoch’s hand, and had throughout her illness 
watched her with unremitting attention, was much affected by this last act 
of his wife, and with many tears earnestly repeated his own thanks. An 
hour or two before her death, he came over to the ships for his two boys, one 
of whom was their real, and the other their adopted, son, and taking them 
into the hospital told them that their mother was dying. The boys then 
joined their father in crying for a few minutes, after which they went out to 
play with their usual cheerfulness, and with equal indifference. As soon as 
she was dead her husband put all her clothes on her, and then agreed to our 
proposal of sewing the body up in a hammock, the face only being left un- 
covered by his desire. He also consented to her being buried on shore, for 
which purpose his two brothers came at an early hour on the following day, 
and with many expressions of acknowledgment, attended to the arrange- 
ments for the burial. These consisted only in the body being placed on a 
sledge, and drawn to the grave by men ; though no request was made for the 
dogs to be tied up or put out of the way, as had been the case in a former 
instance. The husband alone accompanied us to the grave over which, as 
soon as the body was deposited, he was thankful to have some staves placed, 
to prevent any weight resting immediately upon it. He next laid on large 
slabs of snow, after which he had no objection to our people throwing on 
stones and earth ; which shews that their principal care is to avoid loading the 
body with any weight. Nothing was deposited in or near the grave but a pair 
of her spare boots, which were laid upon the body near the head. He came fre- 
quently afterwards to visit the grave, at an interval of several days cach time, 
and generally walked round it once, sometimes muttering a few words and at 
others in silence, but never appearing to be much affected ; this custom is at- 
tended to with scrupulous care, and is evidently connected with some super- 
stitious notion that renders it indispensable in their eyes. This man also 
expressed great anxiety a‘sout his living three days at the ship after his wife's 
death and, within an hour after that time was accomplished, went away 
satisfied and in good spirits. The custom of not using sledges and dogs 
for five days after such an event, which is certainly considered decent 
3 


1823, 
March. 
Py 

Frid. 21. 


Sat, 22. 


2. 


8 HER = te 


alli are 


ee te 
esa 


sage ers amr eee tgs ie Ne OR ad gel aaa 
- lh 6 ie ‘h os 


Se ea ee 
Secageere went a 


ee. - 


1823. 
.March. 
rw 


418 


Mon, 31. 


SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


and proper, is not always strictly attended to; for several went out to the 
fishery the day following Ootooguak’s death, and one or two came to the 
ships within three days. Some individuals, notwithstanding thé serious 
inconvenience of this practice, adhered to it more scrupulously, and Toole- 
mak could by no means be prevailed on to part with a dog for which I had 
bargained, till the five days were completed. When however there are no 
relatives at hand to observe the practice, as in the case of the unfortunate 
Kaga, it is altogether neglected ; so that its non-observance is only perhaps 
considered to affect the dead, without having any influence over the living. 
Messrs. Crozier and Ross, having spent one or two days in accompanying 
some of the Esquimaux on their fishing excursions, found that the same floe of 
‘“‘ young” and weak ice as before still opposed an insuperable obstacle to the 
catching of walruses. Mr. Ross succeeded in killing a single dovekey, 
which proved extremely curious from the whiteness of its plumage. It 
was probably on account of the present unfavourable state of the ice for 
the walrus-fishery, that several other families removed, before the end of 
March, to Pingitkalik, where these animals were equally abundant, and more 
easily procured ; for the Esquimaux do not acknowledge the truth of our 
English proverb, that “‘ enough is as good as a feast.” Previously to their 


Wed. 26. departure, several of them, with their usual cunning, paid two or three “ last 


visits” to the ships on as many successive days, having found by experience 
that some extra presents were made them on such occasions. We heard 
about this time of a child six or seven years of age having recently been 
drowned, by accidentally falling into a hole in the ice made for soaking their 
seal-skins. 

At the close of the month of March we were glad to find that its mean tem- 
perature, being — 19°.75, when taken in conjunction with those of January 
and February, appeared to constitute a mild winter for this latitude. There 
were besides, some other circumstances which served to distinguish this 
winter from any preceding one we had passed in the ice. One of the 
most remarkable of these was the frequent occurrence of hard well-de- 


Frid. 28, fined clouds, a feature we had hitherto considered as almost unknown in 


the winter-sky of the polar regions. It is not improbable, that these may 
have in part owed their origin to a large extent of sea keeping open to the 
south-eastward throughout the winter, though they not only occurred with 
the wind from that quarter, but also with the colder weather usually accom- 
panying north-westerly breezes. About the time of the sun’s re-appearance, 


yt 
i 


S 


a Pia 


se rag EE tee Sot get 


ee eee eee 


and 
admi 
of t 
for 
and 
this s 
or b 
guis 
into 
nome 
sun’s 
latte 
to us 
so mt 
our h 
ness 
also « 
and « 
and ¢ 
now 
woul 
the e 
othe: 
neve 
Sh 
noon 
by tl 
row | 
the | 
Pa 
angu 
rema 
tion’ 
parh 
at a 
little 
haps 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 419 


— ote ae 


= 


and for a week or two after it, these clouds were not more a subject of 7°73 
admiration to us on account of their novelty, than from the glowing richness wy~ 
of the tints with which they were adorned. It is indeed scarcely possible 
for nature, in any climate, to produce a sky exhibiting greater splendour 
and richness of colouring than we at times experienced in the course of 
this spring. The edges of the clouds near the sun often presented a fiery 
or burnished appearance, while the opposite side of the heavens was distin- 
guished by a deep purple about the horizon, gradually softening upwards 
into a warm yet delicate rose-colour of inconceivable beauty. These phe- 
nomena have always impressed us the most forcibly about the time of the 
sun’s permanent setting, and that of his re-appearance, especially the 
laiter, and have invariably furnished a particular subject of conversation 
to us at those periods; but I do not know whether this is to be attributed 
so much to the colouring of the sky exactly at the times alluded to, as to 
our habit of setting on every enjoyment a value proportioned to its scarce- 
ness and novelty. Besides the colouring of the clouds just mentioned, I 
also observed five or six times, in the course of the spring, those more rare 
and delicate tints to which allusion has already been made in this Narrative, 
and twice in that of the preceding voyage. This peculiarity, in which I 
now observed no difference from those of the same kind before described, 
would probably have been oftener seen but for the glare of the sun upon 
the eyes in viewing an object so near it. Perhaps it has also been seen in 
other climates ; here it is, I believe, most frequent in the spring, and I have 
never noticed it after the summer temperature has commenced. 

Shortly after the sun’s re-appearance, it not unfrequently happened about 
noon that a part of the low shore to the southward of the ships appeared, 
by the effect of refraction, to be raised and separated, forming a long nar- 
row streak of a dark colour, like a cloud, suspended a few minutes above 
the land, in a position nearly horizontal. 

Parhelia and imperfect halos very often occurred in the spring, their 
angular distance from the sun being from 22° to 23°, but having nothing 
remarkable either in form, situation or colours, to need a separate descrip- 
tion on each occasion. It was sometimes observable however, that though 
parhelia appear to an observer placed nearly on a level with the sea, to be 
at a considerable distance from the eye, they are found, on ascending a 
little eminence, to be produced on some medium comparatively close, per- 
haps only from one'to two miles distant. In this case the land or other 

3H 2 


a 


420 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


1823. distant objects may be seen over them, though there is near them always 

nee a mistiness to which they perhaps owe their origin. Although however 
the winter atmosphere of these regions is seldom free from numberless mi- 
nute particles of snow, which are abundantly deposited upon any thing 
left in the open air, yet it was not observable, except in some cases 
of snow-drift, that, parhelia were more frequent or distinct when this 
deposit was the greatest, than when the atmosphere was comparatively 
clear, though in the latter case they are always to appearance most 
distant. Parhelia occur most frequently, and exhibit the greatest inten- 
sity of light, at low altitudes of the sun. This is often particularly ob- 
servable in the short days, when these phenomena assume a very brilliant 
appearance soon after sunrise, decrease in splendour towards noon, and 
resume their brightness as the sun descends towards the horizon; con- 
tinuing however distinctly visible the whole time, and being sometimes 
accompanied by a more or less perfect halo undergoing corresponding 
variations. 

Another peculiarity observed in this winter was the rare occurrence of 
the Aurora Borealis, and the extraordinary poorness of its display when- 
ever it did make its appearance. It was almost invariably seen to the 
southward, between an E.S.E. and a W.S.W. bearing, generally low, the 
stationary patches of it having a tendency to form an irregular arch, and 
not unfrequently with coruscetions shooting towards the zenith. When 
more diffused it still kept, in general, on the southern side of the zenith ; 
but never exhibited any of those rapid and complicated movements observed 
in the course of the preceding winter, nor indeed any feature that renders 
it necessary to attempt a particular description, The electrometer was fre- 
quently tried by Mr. Fisher, at times when the state of the atmosphere 
appeared the most favourable, but always without any sensible effect being 
produced on the gold leaf. 

The difference in the temperature of the day and night began to be 
sensible as early as the first week in March, and the daily range of the ther- 
mometer increased considerably from that time. The increase in the average 
temperature of the atmosphere, however, is extremely slow in these regions, 
long after the sun has attained a considerable meridian altitude ; but this is in 
some degree compensated by the inconceivable rapidity with which the days 
seem to lengthen when once the sun has re-appeared. There is indeed no 
change which continues to excite so much surprise as that from almost con- 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 421 


stant darkness to constant day ; and this is of course the more sudden and _ 1823. 
striking in proportion to the height of the latitude. Even in this compara- w~ 
tively low parallel the change seemed sufficiently remarkable ; for soon after 
the middle of March, only ten weeks after the sun’s re-appearance above 
the horizon, a bright twilight appeared at midnight in the northern heavens. 
The annexed abstract contains a comparative view of the mean tempera- 
ture of the atmosphere during six months of each of the three winters passed 
in the polar regions, by this and the preceding Expedition. 


Mean temperature of the Atmosphere at 


Months. Melville Island} —Igloolik, REMARKS. 
lat. 7499, lat. Gol?, 664°, 
1819-20, 1822-23+ 

October 


The “ corrected temperature” in the 
November : F . 


lower line of each column of this 
December 


Table is the “ registered temperature” 
" January 


with a deduction of 3° for the warm 
February 


atmosphere of the ship. 
March 


Mean registered temperature 


Mean corrected temperature | 
| 


ABSTRACT of the METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL kept on board His Majesty's Ship 
Fury, at Igloolik, during the Month of March, 1823, ; 


Fahrenheit’s Ther- Prevailing 


mometer. | Barometer. Winds. 


| maxi- Mini- Prevailing Weather. 
mum, | mum. | Mean, Direction. 


inches | inches | inches 


20.70/29 .733 NW 
29.70:29.72;, 
beailaiae fine and clear 
0.040.00 . fine 
29.64 20.747 cloudy 
29,63)20.72 hazy, drift 
29.85/30 .003 nd fine 
30.0030. 100 fine THE 
a i cloudy WRE 
29.81/29 .874) i cloudy MUF 
29.99)29 907 NW and clear 
29.96)29.975]) NW i , fine Wuat 
29.85/29, 890 SW hazy the m 
29.82/20. 85: West finc 
29, 89/30.027|| NWbN i hazy and small snow we ha 
nn is North sie spect 
yee a aie UP.M, foguy cipate 
30.58)30.706) North 
30.20:30.377)| Northerly 
30.06/30. 107 NNW 
30.05/30 .075 NW 
20.90}20.900] NNW cleur mont! 
20.78'29.812|| WNW drift perio 
20.80!20.982 WNW clear short, 
29,.80/20.013/) Weat cloudy and tl 
thal 003) West hazy, snow at times place 
sider’ sat NE , hazy and snow nary | 
20.0420.900] NW fine On 
20.07 | 29.04120.908] NW fine statio 
90.12 30.08 90.082 NW fine to the 
30,20 0.1 90. NNW fine the ic 


| dentl 


56 6 } | alrea 


VARIOU 
ALE 
REM 
NEY 
ACC{ 


_- = 
FS ecnxreon een = | 


view | 


mean 
given 
thoug 


SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY. 423 


CHAPTER XIV. 


VARIOUS JOURNEYS TO THE ESQUIMAUX STATIONS——ILLNESS AND DECEASE OF MR. 
ALEXANDER ELDER—PREPARATIONS FOR THE HECLA’S RETURN TO ENGLAND— 
REMARKABLE HALOS, §*C.—SHOOTING PARTIES STATIONED AT ARLAGNUK——JOUR- 
NEYS TO QUILLIAM CREEK——ARRIVAL OF ESQUIMAUX FROM THE NORTHWARD 
ACCOUNT OF A JOURNEY TO THE WESTWARD FOR THE PURPOSE OF REACHING 
THE POLAR SEA-—-THE ESQUIMAUX Ri&iORT TWO FISHING*SHIPS HAVING BEEN 
WRECKED—= 4 JOURNEY PERFORMED TO COCKBURN ISLAND=——DISCOVERY OF 
MURRAY MAXWELL INLET. 


Wuatever hopes of an unusually mild winter might have been excited by 
the mean temperature of some of the preceding months, the comparative 
view exhibited in the foregoing table, for a longer period of each winter that 
we had passed in these regions, did not seem to hold out at present a pro- 
spect of any thing extraordinary. It could indeed have been scarcely anti- 
cipated that our journals would have registered so progressive a decrease of 
mean temperature, in proportion to the height of our latitude as that here 
given; and this circumstance may perhaps be considered as intimating that 
though in small intervals of time, such as particular and corresponding 
months, considerable differences may occur in this respect, yet that in longer 
periods the averages will be found to coincide more nearly :—that nature, in 
short, though ever varying in detail, still preserves her general uniformity ; 
and that when any considerable deviation from her usual course has taken 
place on one side, she struggles to maintain the balance by some extraordi- 
nary compensation on the other. 

On the Ist of April Captain Lyon went out on his sledge to the distant 
station of the Esquimaux, which he found to be situated eight or nine miles 
to the westward of Tern Island, and consisting of five snow-huts built upon 
the ice ; the people, who were twenty-eight in number, living almost indepen 
dently of the open water, by catching the neitick in its hole in the manner 
already described, They were at this time abundantly furnished with food, 


1823. 
April. 
Sw 


Wed. 2 


Frid. 4, 


424 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


and were chiefly clad in seal-skin dresses. Among them were two young 
men who were invalids, one of whom was slowly recovering from an illness 
occasioned by excessive eating, and the other had just fallen sick from the 
same cause, but was relieved by bleeding. 


. Captain Lyon returning to the ships on the 2d, and old Nannow with a 


party of other Esquimaux arriving from Pingitkalik at the same time, I 
lodged the latter in my cabin, and on the following day accompanied them 
on their return home ; one or two other families also setting off from Igloolik 
to join their companions to the southward. I found the Esquimaux situated 
about twenty-three miles to the southward and eastward of the ships ; the 
huts being built upon the ice in immediate contact with the beach, and the 
open water, in which they killed walruses for their subsistence, being distant 
from them about three miles. The quantity. of meat in the huts at this time 
was So great, that 1 never remember to have seen it more abundant, even 
in the summer; and two more walruses were killed during my stay there. 
Nannow and all his household behaved to us with a degree of kindness and 
genuine hospitality which nothing could surpass. Indeed the old man 
seemed to be only apprehensive that he could not do enough for me, and 
fidgetted about the whole evening in preparing my bed and repairing my dogs’ 
harness, while his wife was mending my boots. Every now and then this 
worthy creature kept calling his own ‘ igloo” bad, and mine good; and 
in the morning he offered me, I believe, in turn, every article belonging to 
him in return for the presents which I had made him. 

In returning on board on the 4th we got out of the road, which was nearly 
covered with a heavy snow drift that was flying at the time. We were 
therefore obliged to trust entirely to the instinct of the dogs; and these 
sagacious creatures landed us close to the bone-huts at Igloolik, after tra- 
velling for more than three hours without seeing a single object at a greater 
distance than two or three hundred yards around us, 

About the first and second weeks in April, the Esquimaux were in the habit 
of coming up the inlet, to the southward of the ships, to kill the neitieh or 
small seal which brings forth its young at this season, and probably retires 
into sheltered places for that purpose *. Besides the old seals which were 


* * The netsek is the only species of seal which remains in the winter under the ice. They 
form in it large caverns, in which they bring forth their young, two at a time, in March. 
More than one cavern belongs to one seal, that he may if disturbed in the first, take shelter in 
the second, No other seal iscaught in winter by the Esquimaux” (in Labrador.) Journal 
of a Voyage to Ungava Bay by the Missionaries of the Unitas Fratrum, p. 36. 


taker 


num 
ing 
fish-l 
of t 
barte 
and 
Ww 
more 
being 
be o 
copi 
rescé 
sphe 
pera 
along 
It 
vide 
of : 
on sé 
of p 
degt 
whic 
ance 
for t 
con 


in 
muc 
Seve 
inde 
to t 
upr 
tory 
stor 

71 
L6t 


OF a NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 425 


taken in the manner before explained, the Esquimaux also caught a great 
number of young ones by fastening a hook to the end of a staff, and ho-*- 
ing them up from the seal-hole after the mother had been killed. Our large 
fish-hooks were useful to them for this purpose, and the beautiful silvery skins 
of these young animals were occasionally brought to the ships as articles of 
barter; -those of the foetus of the neitiek are more yellow than the others, 
and indeed both in colour and texture very much resemble raw silk. 


1823. 
April. 
wee 


We could at this season just make out that a stone was here and there Tues. 8. 


more perceptible on shore than during the winter, owing to the tops of them 
being uncovered by the sun’s rays; but this was the only change that could 
be observed. We had frequent occasion to notice about this time that a 
copious deposit of snow-crystals, of a large size, and of a beautiful arbo- 
rescent form, took place every mght, as soon as the temperature of the atmo- 
sphere fell some degrees below that of the day, just as the dew falls in tem- 


perate climates, On the 13th a grouse was observed upon the rubbish-heap Sun. 13. 


alongside the Hecla. 


It is now once more my painful duty to record an afflicting visitation of Pro- Tues. 15. 


vidence which took place among us on the morning of the 15th, in the death 
of Mr. Alexander Elder, Greenland mate of the Hecla. He had complained, 
on several different occasions in the course of this and the preceding winter, 
of pulmonary affections, to which perhaps a full habit of body may in some 
degree have contributed. His disease was now, however, a confirmed dropsy, 
which having attacked the region of the heart, rapidly terminated his exist- 
ance. Mr. Elder had served in the three successive Expeditions employed 
for the discovery of a North-West Passage, and as a reward for his good 
conduct, had been raised from the situation of leading-man to that of mate, 
in which last capacity he served both in the Griper and the Hecla. He died 
much regretted by many of the officers and men, who had known him 
several years, and by none more deeply than by myself. Most sincerely 
indeed do I lament the occasion which demands from me this tribute, due 
to the memory of an active and valuable seaman, as well as an honest and 
upright rian. His remains were committed to the ground near the Observa- 


tory, with all the solemnity that the occasion demanded, and a tomb of Thur. 17. 


stones, with a handsome tomb-stone, raised over the grave. 
The first ducks noticed by the Esquimaux were mentioned to us on the 


LOth, and a few days afterwards immense flocks appeared, all of the king- 
gt 


426 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


duck species, about the open water near the margin of the ice; but our dis- It is 
\wr~ tance from this was so great that we never saw any of them, and the weather body 
was yet too cold to station a shooting party in that neighbourhood. Dove- the s 
kies were now also numerous, and a gull or two of the silvery species had O 
been seen. and } 

On the 20th after divine service, I took the opportunity of Captain Lyon desc 
and his people being on board the Fury, to communicate to the assembled notic 
officers and ship’s companies my intentions respecting the future movements 
of the Expedition; at the same time requesting Captain Lyon to furnish me 
with a list of any of the Hecla’s men that might volunteer to remain out, as 
it would be necessary to fill up, or perhaps even to increase the complement 
of the Fury. 

ur preparations were therefore immediately commenced, a twelve months’ 
provision and other stores being received by the fury, and various necessary 
exchanges made in anchors, cables, and boats ; and in the course of a single 
fortnight the whole of these were transported from ship to ship without any 
exposure or labour to the men outside their respective ships, our invaluable 
dogs having performed it for us with astonishing ease and expedition. It 
was a curious sight to watch these useful animals walking off with a bower- 
anchor, a boat, or a topmast without any difficulty; and it may give some 
idea of what they are able to perform to state, that nine dogs of Captain S, th 
Lyon’s dragged sixteen hundred and eleven pounds a distance of seventeen a,e, A 
hundred and fifty yards in nine minutes, and that they worked in a similar ast 
way between the ships for seven or eight hours a day. The road was, 
however, very good at this time, and the dogs the best that could be pro- hy ty 1 
cured, 

On the 21st '.00-eet-see-arioo, who had for a fortnight past been in a sad by 0d 
fidget about going away, and who had now no complaint but debility, at 
length too his departure. He was fortunate in leaving us at a time of the 
year when exposure to the air was of comparatively little importance, and he 
subse:juently recovered his health sufficiently to resume all his occupations, 
I regret to add that the vase was diiferent with our late patient Innooksioo, 
who, having suffered a relapse when «t a distance from us, died about this 
time, as we were afterwards informed by the other Esquimaux. His widow, 
Amlo-tooinyak, was well taken care of, living in old Nannow’s hut for some 
time, and shortly after becoming the second wife of Ootooguak, one of his sons. 


brou 
cons 
lisse 
seas 
two: 
for s 
befo 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 427 


It is certain, however, that for some time she was nearly common to every yeas 
April. 
Kon ee 


body, and it was said to be in consequence of a suggestion made on board 
the ships, that she became the acknowledged wife of Ootooguak. 

On the evening of the 24th, the thermometer being at +6°, some halos Thur. 24. 
and parhelia appeared about the sun, which the annexed figure will best 
describe. This was the only phenomenon of the kind particularly worthy of 
notice that occurred during the spring. 


S, the sun, eight to ten degrees above the horizon. 
a, ¢, A horizontal circle of white light, passing through the sun and parhelia; upon this appea red 
at times a large white spot, exactly opposite to the sun in the heavens. 
fi & Parhelia situated upon the inner halo f, i, g, of which the radius was 22° 20’. 


h, i, l, Part ofan inverted circle, touching the upper part of the halo /, i, g, and sometimes assuming 
the form of a bow. 


b,c, d, An outer halo, much more brightly tinged with the prismatic colours than the inner one ; 
its radius 48°, 


The wind settling to the southward for a few days near the end of April, 
brought an increased and, to us, a comfortable degree of warmth ; and it was 
considered an event of some interest, that the snow which fell on the 29th 
dissolved as it lay on our decks, being the first time that it had done so this 
season. We now also ventured to take off some of the hatches for an hour or 
two in the day, and to admit some fresh air, a luxury which we had not known 
for six months. The Esquimaux about this time began to separate more than 
before, according to their usual custom in the spring ; some of them, and 

312 


Tues, 29. 


April. 
a )\ a 


May. 
Frid. 2. 


Thur. 8. 


Sat. 10. 


428 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY. 


especially our Winter Island acquaintance, setting off to the little islands 
called Ooglit and those in our neighbourhood removing to the north-east 
end of Igloolik, to a peninsula called Keiyuk-tarruoke, to which the open 
water was somewhat nearer. These people now became so much incom- 
moded by the melting of their snow huts, that they were obliged to substitute 
skins as the roofs, retaining however the sides and part of the passages of 
the original habitations. These demi-tents were miserable enough while 
in this state, some of the snow continually falling in, and the floor being 
constantly wet by its thawing. 

On the 2d of May several of our gentlemen accompanied the Esquimaux to 
the open water, to endeavour to procure some ducks, large flocks of which 
were flying about there; but a quantity of ‘“ young” ice prevented their 
approaching them. In walking out with the wind blowing against them from 
the sea to the castward, they found their faces covered with salt, the ther- 
mometer being from +11°to +17° during the day. 

Accustomed as we had been to the rapidity of the changes produced by 
warmth when it does begin to operate in these climates, we still could not 
help being surprised at the alteration which a few days of temperate weather 
in the beginning of May effected in the appearance of the land, many of the 
ridges being almost entirely clear of snow, and every hour discovering some 
fresh spots of dark ground. The deception occasioned by one unvaried and 
extensive surface of white was now also once more perceptible, principally 
in making the neighbouring lands appear much nearer than before, and 
discovering the hills and valleys; whereas in the winter all was blended to- 
gether, so as to give no idea of the true distance of the land or of its various 
undulations. Another change which we have invariably remarked to take 
place in the spring, was now daily more and more observable ; this consisted 
in the distinctness with which distant lands might be seen, or rather in 
those parts of the coast coming in sight which we had never seen during the 
winter. It is most certain indeed that, notwithstanding all that has been 
said of the superior transparency of the winter atmosphere in these regions, 
there is none less clear for viewing either celestial or terrestrial objects, 
which fact will I believe become apparent to any person putting it fairly 
to the test. At cleven P.M. we had a thick fog, which lasted for a 
couple of hours, and another for a short time on the 10th. Upon the spots 
that were bare of snow on shore we now observed numerous caterpillars, of 
the same kind as those found in equal abundance, and at the same time of the 


AB 


(n:nat 


— = et 
so =- S&S 


ABSTRACT of the METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL kept on board His Majesty’s Ship 
Fury, at Igloolik, during the Month of April, 1823. 


Fahrenheit’s Ther. 
mometer. 


Prevaili 
Winds.” 

D Prevailing Weather. 
ay Maxi- | Mini- 

mum. | mum. Mean. 


o | © 

— 6 —20 80. 18]30.257 light fine 
5 15 2053.4 We) light fine 
2 

-2 


Velucity. 


Mean Tem 
of lower-de 


16 f . 2 fresh fine 

9 . Yi fresh cloudy and drift 
13 H . fresh hazy and drift 
21 ‘ A 75 modt. fine 


0 

8 

6 | 3 ‘ ‘ . . light fine 
4 


21 , . light fine 


cocoomont aoa ft So HS = 


13 i . ’ . WSW light cloudy 
West fresh cloudy and drift 
WSW light fine 
NNW light cloudy 
West light fine 
North light fine 
NNW fresh fine 
fresh clear and drift 
strong drift 
strong cloudy and drift 
light fine 
light cloudy 
light fine 
30.15;30.188 light fine 
snelinae light cloudy and small snow 
29.85)29.913 modt. clear 
29.00 29.938) hazy and snow 
| 30,00'30.057 clear 
wo. a ‘able hazy and snow 


20.83 29.957 shania clear 


| 
ctl: sept . i hazy and snow 
met , clear 
| 


| 


1823. 
May. 
wr ~w 


Mon. 12, 


Wed. 14. 


Mon. 19. 


430 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


year at Winter Island. The late mild weather having become an inconve- 
nience to Mr. Fisher at the Observatory, owing to the thaw that was going 
on around it, we now pitched a tent for the reception of the instruments, 
and Mr. Fisher’s clock was soon after set up in it. 

Among other useful purposes to which our dogs were put, they afforded an 
Opportunity of trying, on a more extensive scale than had before been done 
at Winter Island, the experiment of laying sand upon the ice in order to assist 
its dissolution. The sledge was therefore employed daily for a fortnight in 
bringing sand from the shore, and lightly covering the ice with it in the di- 
rection of the open sea. The space thus covered was twenty-four feet in 
width, a narrow line having been before found to cover itself very frequently 
with drift, and the extent accomplished was about two-thirds of a mile. The 
effect produced by this will be mentioned hereafter. 

Towards the middle of May, ten individuals of the Esquimaux who were 
strangers to us, consisting of three men, four women, and three children, 
arrived from Peelig, a station represented by them to be from six to ten days’ 
journey from Igloolik, but of whose situation we could never obtain any 
very satisfactory information. A man named Toolooak, being the fourth in- 
dividual of our acquaintance distinguished by that favourite appellation, 
came to the ships on the 14th, accompanied as usual by some of the 
others to introduce him. It appeared from what these people said, that the 
Esquimaux at Peelig had received no intimation of our being here ; so that 
none of the others had gone that way since our arrival: we gained no in- 
formation of interest from the newly-arrived party. The parts of the land 
which had been uncovered were now once more hidden from us by a fresh 
coat of snow, and indeed the whole prospect had resumed, in every respect, 
its winter appearance. 

Some of our gentlemen, on going out on the 19th to Arlagnuk, where a 
part of the Esquimaux still remained, found that that the open water had 
now approached the shore there within three-quarters of a mile, and that 
the ducks were more numerous than before. They succeeded in killing 
some of these, and Ooyarraseo, who proved a most active, intelligent, and 
obliging young man, immediately carried down his canoe to try to pick them 
up, but without success, the swell being so considerable at the margin of the 
ice that, though he managed to launch her, he could not steady her sufli- 
ciently to get into the hole. He explained at the same time, that in such 
cases, and when very desirous of getting out, they sometimes lash two 


canoe 
were 
were 
22d t 
deer: 
to th 
seldo. 
the sk 

On 
ceede 
Esqui 
secret 
wanti 
party 
on sle 
the of 
the ey 

Fav 
respec 
the ls 
low te 
at Me 
time ¢ 
across 
by m 
wards 
which 
matio 
ships 
judg 
in the 
enced 
suppl 
by te 
train 
doubt 
that Sq 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 431 


canoes together, to give the requisite stability. Some long-tailed ducks 1823. 
were noticed by the Esquimaux on the 2lst, at which time some silvery gulls en 
were more frequently seen than before, but they were not numerous. On the =e 
22d the Esquimaux observed, for the first time this season, the tracks of two Thur. 22. 
deer; and the snow-buntings, which are usually some of the earliest visitants 
to these reigions in the spring, began now to appear in flocks; but it was 
seldom that a stray bird of any kind was to be seen in the neighbourhood of 
the ships. a 

On the 26th, Captain Lyon went out on his sledge to Arlagnuk, and suc- Mon. 26. “ 
ceeded in killing fourteen pair of king-ducks, a part of which only the 
Esquimaux, who picked them. up in their canoes, thought proper to return, 
secreting the rest for their own use. Finding that nothing but a boat was 
wanting to ensure us a su] f ducks from time to time, we now sent a 
party with an officer, and our small boats from each ship, these being carried 
on sledges to Arlagnuk, where our shooting-parties were established close to |) 
the open water, which extended from thence to the south-eastward, as far as a if f 
the eye could reach. 

Favourable as the first part of the month of May had appeared with June. 


respect to temperature, its close was by no means equally promising, and on el 3s 
the lst of June, at two A.M., the thermometer stood at +8°. This unusually i$ 
low temperature, much exceeding in severity any thing we had experienced 4 


at Melville Island at the same season, rendered it necessary to defer for a 
time a journey which it was proposed that Captcin Lyon should undertake, \ 
across the land to the westward at the head of Quilliam Creek, and thence, it. 
by means of the ice, along the shores of the Polar Sea, in the direction to- , 
wards Akkoolee. The object of this journey, like that of most of the others 
which had been performed in various directions, was to acquire all the infor- 
mation within our reach, of those parts of the continental coast to which the 
ships were denied access ; and it was hoped that at the coming season some 
judgment might be formed of the probable state of the ice along that shore 
in the summer, by which the future movements of the Fury might be influ- 
enced. Captain Lyon was to be accompanied by two men, and a complete 
supply of every kind for a month’s travelling was to be drawn on a sledge 
by ten excellent dogs, which he had taken great pains to procure and 
train for such occasions. As I was desirous of ascertaining beyond any 
doubt the identity of the Khemig, to which I had sailed in the autumn, with 
that seen by Captain Lyon on his journey with the Esquimaux, I determined 


Se ee 


Zz 
o 
_— 
< 
a | 
cml 
aa 
> 
ia 
Lhd 
U) 
< 
= 


TEST TARGET (MT-3) 
WZ2 Wass eda 


o 
SS a 
y 


> 
> 


ABSTRACT of the METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL kept on board His Majesty's Ship 
Fury, at Igloolik, during the Month of May, 1823. 


Fahrenheit’s Prevailing a 
Thermometer. Barometer. Winds, Prevailing 
Day ae fae Bean Weather. 
Maxi- | Mim- Maxi- | Mini- 
mum, | mum. Mean. mum, | ium, Mean. Direction. Velocity. 
inch inch inches 
+17 -% al 8.33 || 30.06 | 29.99 [30.022] West light cloudy 


1 
2]| 17 |4+5 | 11.38 || 30,03 | 29.88 |29.975/| NE modt. cloudy 
3} 17 4 | 10.92 |] 30.03 | 29.90 |30.000/| NNE fresh cloudy 
4} 34 12 25.42 || 20.89 | 20.52 |29.617 NE strong constant snow 
5 || 374] 12 | 23.96 || 30.07 | 29.74 |29. 965 
6 

7 

8 

9 


South modt. cloudy 
40 | 20 | 32.00 || 20.97 | 29.91 |29, 925 NE light snow 

39 | 31 34.75 || $0.17 | 29.93 |30,038 ESE fresh cloudy and snow 
46 31 36.62 || 30.45 | 30.24 |30.362) ESE modt, cloudy 
45 30 38.12 || 30.47 | 30.43 |30.448 SW light cloudy 

10] 82 | 26 | 30.00 || 30.43 | 30.10 [30.412] 5 by West) tight cloudy and snow 
11] 37 | 22 | 29,96 || 30:37 | $0.27 |30.322] NWesterly | modt. cloudy 
12 }} 28 22 24.25 || 30.22 | 30.07 |30. 140) NW fresh cloudy 


NW modt, 
WSW light 


South light 


20.00 |} 30.10 | 30.01 30.012 
4] 36 9 23.46 || 30.00 | 29.80 |29. 808 
1} 40 22 30.79 || 20.77 | 29.61 (29.725 


cloudy and snow 


hazy and smal! snow 


16 || 26 | 16, | 21.29 || 20.55 | 20.38 |29.488] North strong Cloudy and snow 
17 |] 205] 17 | 28.12 || 29.79 | 20.64 (20.687) Northerly | modt. fine 

18 |} 25 | 14 | 20.25 || 20.80 | 20.70 |29.702] NNW fresh Gine and drift 
19 || 27 |° 6 | 18.42 || 20.7 | 29.72 [20.735] NNW fresh clear : 
20 |} 28 3 17.58 || 20.78 | 20.63 29.690; WbS modt, fine 

21 |) 21 14 18,00 || 20.61 | 29.58 |29.593) NNW strong cloudy 

22]; 32 | 14 | 22.12 |] 20.57 | 20.54 |20.550 SE light hazy and snow 
23}; 33 20 | 26.17 || 20.60 | 20.62 |29.613 SE light snow 

24}) 34 | 23 | 28.63 || 20.82 | 20.62 |29.605 SSE modt, hazy and snow 
25 | 35 | 94 | 31.17 || 29,89] 29.77 [20.802 SE strong | cloudy and snow 
26 | 495 | 24 | 98.21 || 20.89 | 20.80 |20.837)) South light hazy 

7) 36 | 18 | 27.00 || 30.15 | 29.06 |30,065| Westerly light clear 

28 || 48 4 $2.45 || 30.10 | 29,87 |20.980)) Southerly light cloudy 

20} 48 | 17 | 81.95 |] 29.80] 20.51 [29. sw | ttieah ee 

30]; 20 | 18 | 19.42 |] 80,13 | 20.05 30.003} NbW fresh clear 


18.25 || 30,08 | 20.08 |30.025 NW modt. clear 


Cee 


+49, | 8 [+24 90.47 | 20.38 |20.915 


ext 
in ¢ 
wal 
So 
of | 
twe 
dea 
Abe 
wal 
bro 
sled 
to 
savi 
fro. 
furt 
was 
Wo! 
and 
0 
and 
pro 
find 
Was 
the 
nise 
Cox 
not 


SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY. 433 


to accompany the travellers on my sledge as far as the head of Quilliam 


1823. 
e 


Creek, and by victualling them thus far on their journey, enable them to deans 


gain a day or two’s resources in advance. Another object which I had in 
view was to endeavour to find a lake mentioned by Toolemak ; who assured 
me that if I could dig holes in the ice, which was five feet thick, plenty of 
large salmon might be caught with hooks, an experiment which seemed at 
least well worth the trying. 


Our first shooting-parties, being relieved on the 5th, brought with them a Thur. 5. 


hundred and twenty ducks which, as well as all other game that might 
be procured this season except venison, 1 directed to be served as an 
extra allowance to the officers and men. These proved the more acceptable 
in consequence of our usual supply of the hearts, livers, and kidneys of the 
walrus having lately failed us, the Esquimaux having little or none to spare. 
So accustomed had we been, indeed, to this supply, that the sudden failure 
of it was esteemed a greater loss than we could have supposed possible a 
twelvemonth before. We were much shocked about this time to hear of the 
death of poor Togolat, at a station somewhat to the southward of Ooglit. 
About six weeks before this she had been unwell at Igloolik, when Mr. Ed- 
wards, having seen and prescribed for her, recommended that she should be 
brought to the ship. I proposed this to Ewerat, and offered to send my 
sledge for her and to lodge them both in my cabin, to all which he seemed 
to agree; but with a degree of caprice almost unaccountable, even in a 
savage, set off the very next morning to the southward. Here, as we heard 
from time to time, she continued constantly ailing ; but Ewerat still moved 
further and further out of our reach, and at length lost his wife to whom he 
was certainly very much attached. We regretted the death of this poor 
woman extremely, for she was one of our first and principal acquaintance, 
and we knew that our friend Ewerat would sadly feel her loss. 

On the 7th, the weather being more favourable than before, Captain Lyon 
and myself set out to the westward at half-past eleven A.M., and the ice 
proving level, reached Khemig at half-past five ; when it was satisfactory to 
find that the route followed by Captain Lyon on his journey with Toolemak 
was precisely that which [ had supposed, every feature of the land, of which 
the fog had before scarcely allowed him a glimpse, being now easily recog- 
nised and every difficulty cleared up. Continuing our journey among the 
Coxe Islands till seven o’clock, we landed upon one of them, and were 
not sorry to find abundance of water on every rock, though on the loose 

3K 


Sat. 7. 


‘psa gee 


a eee ae a oe 
a a : > 
ae = 


ee 


pe 


434 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


ae soil of the land about the ships, none had yet appeared. Proceeding at 
wy eight A.M. on the 8th, we soon met with numerous tracks of deer upon the 
Sun. 8. ice, which, together with the seals that lay in great numbers near their 
holes, expedited our journey very considerably, the dogs frequently sctting 
off at full gallop on sniffing one of them. Landing at the head of Quilliam 
Creek at half-past one, we took up an advantageous position for looking 
about us, in order to determine on the direction of Captain Lyon’s route 
over land, which all the Esquimaux concurred in representing as a laborious 
one. The land is here almost entirely high, a range of lofty hills stretch- 
ing in a north-west and south-eas: direction at the back of the creek, and 
intercepting the view to the westward. Much of this rugged land had now 
lost its snow, and the only route that seemed practicable for a sledge was 
in about a S.b.E. direction at the foot of the hills, which appeared atfter- 
wards to take a more westerly turn. We met with several rein-deer imme- imp 
diately on our landing; and while in pursuit of them Captain Lyon dis- the | 
covered a lake two or three miles long and a quarter of a mile broad, a duri 
short distance from the tents, which we concluded to be that of which I was foun 
in search. As some of our party were suffering from snow-blindness and, . and 
what is scarcely less painful, severe inflammation of the whole face occa- the 
sioned by the heat of the sun, we remained here for the rest of this day to were 
make our final arrangements. of th 
At nine A.M. on the 9th we struck the tents, att Captain Lyon set off wort 
es the southward, while we drove over to the lake, which is one mile of o 
N.N.W. of the head of the creek, and after three or four hours’ labour mort 
completed a hole through the ice, which was very dark-coloured, brittle, Ross 
and transparent and, as Toolemak had said, about five feet thick. The wint 
water which was eleven fathoms deep flowed up within a couple of inches Inlet 
of the surface, over which lay a covering of snow eighteen inches in depth. lime: 
In confident hope of now obtaining some fish, we proceeded exactly ac- T} 
cording to Toolemak’s instructions ; but, after four-and-twenty hours’ trial and 
at all depths, not even a single nibble rewarded our labour; so that after : thro 
obtaining observations, which gave the latitude of the head of the creck lakes 
69° 32’ 20", and its longitude 1° 33' 14" W. of the Fury, we set off on our latte 
return down the creek on the 10th. same 
Coasting the south shore, on which I wished to obtain observations and cour 
angles for the survey, we the next day entered a small bay where we pitched \ ward 
our tent; our whole party being so snow-blind with endeavouring to distin- recei 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 435 


guish the land from the ice, (so entirely were both covered with snow,) that iid 
we could literally no longer muster one eye among three of us to direct ww 
the sledge. I found a handkerchief tied close, but not too tightly, round 
the eyes for a whole night, to be a more effectual remedy for this dis- 
agreeable complaint than any application of eye-water; and my companions, 
being induced to try the same experiment, derived equal benefit from it. 
The 12th proved so inclement a day, with hard gales from the N.W. and Thur. 12. 
N.E., and continued snow and drift, that no observations could be obtained, 
and we were glad to keep within the shelter of the tent. On the following 
day, after waiting for observations, which gave the lat. 69° 18’ 33”, and the Frid. 13. 
long. 31‘ 36" W. of the Fury, we set off for Arlagnuk, where I wished to 
visit our shooting parties. A bay on the south shore, subsequently named 
after Mr. Moae, of the Hecla, was reserved for future examination, it being 
impossible to distinguish the coast line till the snow was more cleared from 
the land; this was in fact much less the case at this period than it had been 
during the second week in May. Reaching Arlagnuk towards evening, we 
found that our parties had each thirty or forty ducks ready for the ships ; 
and that the Esquimaux had lately altogether deserted this station, owing to 
the scarcity of walruses, and had removed to Ooglit, where these animals 
were said to be abundant at this season. Leaving our people on the morning 
of the 14th, I returned on board soon after noon, where I found that nothing Sat. 14. 
worthy of particular notice had occurred during my absence. The latitude 
of our tents at Arlagnuk, which was one mile to the southward of the point 
more properly so called, was, by the mean of several observations by Mr. 
Ross, 69° 11' 33”, and I found it, by chronometer, 23' 09" East of the Fury’s 
winter station. This shore, the whole way along the south coast of Hooper 
Inlet, from the head of Quilliam Creek, is composed nearly of the same loose 
limestone formation as that of Igloolik. 
The golden plovers and sand-pipers now appeared occasionally in flocks, 

and a few were sometimes brought in by our sportsmen. Black and red- 
throated divers had also made their appearance about the small ponds and 
lakes at Arlagnuk, as well as a few brent and bernacle geese. The two 
latter are considered by the Esquimaux, though certainly erroneously, as the 
same species, of which they take the bernacle to be the male bird. They of 
course, therefore, call both by one name (ncer-/uk,) from which, as we after- 

\ wards learned, the island of Neerlonakto, which abounds in these birds, has 
received its appellation. Some silvery gulls and king-ducks began occasion- 

3K 2 


Frid. 20. 


Sat. 21. 


436 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


ally to hover about the ships, being attracted by the pools of water near 
them. These had now become considerable, in consequence of the sand and 
other substances with which, immediately in their neighbourhood, the ice 
was lightly covered in many places. The quickness and certainty with 
which this process goes on under these circumstances, induced me on this 
occasion to try the experiment of dispensing with the usual wet and laborious 
operation of sawing the ice round the Fury. The event was such as to answer 
every expectation, not the smallest injurious strain having been suffered 
by the ship’s bends, notwithstanding the alteration of weight and stowage ; 
and the ship gradually liberated herself by the dissolution of the ice about 
the beginning of July. The Hecla being surrounded by the masses squeezed 
up to a great thickness in the preceding autumn, was obliged to dig a trench 
and, after sawing the rest, to pull out the blocks as usual; but with a single 
winter’s formation around a ship, strengthened as ours were, I believe she 
may safely be left to liberate herself, and that she will usually be free in time 
to take advantage of the other ice breaking up. 

On the 20th three or four other Esquimaux, strangers to us, arrived at 
Igloolik from the northward, and we found from two young men who visited 
us on the following day that they came from T0-noo-nek, a place undoubtedly 
situated somewhere on the western coast of Baffin’s Bay, or about some of the 
inlets communicating with it, as they had there seen ‘several Kabloona ships 
employed in killing whales. It is not improbable, from the various accounts of 
the direction and distance of Toonoonek, communicated by the Esquimaux 
through the usual medium of their charts, that the part of the sea-coast so 
named lies at no great distance from Pond’s Bay, in lat. 724°, which has lately 
become a common rendezvous of our Davis’ Strait fishermen. Of this fact 
we had, in the course of the winter, received intimation from these people 
from time to time, and had even some reason to believe that our visit to the 
Esquimaux of the River Clyde in 1820 was known to them; but what most 
excited our interest at this time was the sledge brought by the new-comers, 
the runners being composed of large single pieces of wood, one of them 
painted black over a lead-coloured priming, and the cross-bars consist- 
ing of heading-pieces of oak-butts, one flat board with a hinge-mark upon it, 
the upper end of a skid or small-boat’s davit, and others that had evidently 
and recently been procured from some ship. On one of the heading-pieces 
we distinguished the letters Brea—, shewing that the cask had, according to 
the custom of the whalers, contained bread on the outward passage. The 


eg a 


scat beith = eae pe are neccmie Ser- 


S 4S eo 
it 
eligi? 


natul 
cure¢ 
was ¢ 
place 
like 
gone 
ends 
to rey 
We 
new | 
them 
be at 
habit 
essen 
To 
fishin 
tent, 
the c 
of ou 
toget 
and a 
amon 
to the 
tense 
51°, a 
any ¢ 
or fiv 
the te 
a dist 
being 
It is | 
feed 
whicl 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 437 


nature of all these materials led us to suppose that it must have been. pro- 1823. 
cured from some vessel wrecked or damaged on the coast ; and this suspicion rie 
was on the following day confirmed by our obtaining information that, at a 

place called Akkoodneuk,a single day’s journey beyond Toonoonek, two ships 

like ours had been driven on shore by the ice, and that the people had 

gone away in boats equipped for the purpose, leaving one ship on her beam 

ends and the other upright, in which situation the vessels were supposed still 

to remain *, 

We observed on this occasion, as on our first arrival at Igloolik, that the 
new Esquimaux were obliged to have recourse to the others to interpret to 
them our meaning, which circumstance, as it still appeared to me, was to 
be attributed as before to our speaking a kind of broken Esquimaux that 
habit had rendered familiar to our old acquaintance, rather than to any 
essential difference in the true languages of the two people. 

Toolemak, having some time before promised to accompany me to the Mon. 23. 

fishing-place, takiug with him his wife, together with his sledge, dogs, and ee 
tent, made his appearance from Ooglit on the 23d, bringing however only 5 
the old lady and abundance of meat. Having lent him a tent and two 
of our dogs, and hired others to complete his establishment, we set out 
together at five A.M. on the 24th, my own party consisting of Mr. Crozier tyes, 24. 
and a seaman from each ship. Arriving at Khemig towards noon, we found 
among the islands that the ice was quite covered with water, owing probably 
to the radiation of heat from the rocks. The weather indeed proved in- 
tensely hot this day, the thermometer in the shade at the ships being as high as 
51°, and the land in this neighbourhood preventing the access of wind from 
any quarter. The travelling being good beyond this, we arrived within four 
or five miles of the head of Quilliam Creek at ten P.M., where we pitched 
the tents for the-night. In this day’s journey ten dogs had drawn my sledge 
a distance of forty statute miles since the morning, the weight on the sledge 
being about twelve hundred pounds and half of the road very indifferent. 
It is the custom of the Esquimaux, even when meat is most abundant, to 
feed these invaluable animals only once a day, and that in the evening, 
which they consider to agree with them better than more frequent meals ; 
we always observed the same practice with ours, and found that they per- 
formed their journeys the better for it. 


Bota ae in Speman agnik 


—— 
a SS 


3 a PES eet hey 


* We have since heard that these ships were the Dexterity of Leith and the Aurora of 
Hull, which were wrecked on the 28th of August 1821, about the latitude of 72°. 


June, 
en) 


Wed. 25. 


438 


SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


We saw in the course of the day a few deer, numerous king and long- 
tailed ducks, and red-throated divers; also some geese then new to us, and 
which, on procuring a specimen a day or two after, proved to be the snow- 
goose (anas hyberborea), These last are fond of feeding on the wet grass 
and moss on the banks of the numerous streams and lakes in this country, 
They were seen at Arlagnuk, and by Captain Lyon on his journey, about the 
same time, so that the period of their arrival in this latitude seems to have 
becn very well marked. 

On the morning of the 25th, while passing close toa point of land, 
Toolemak suddenly stopped his sledge, and he and his wife walked to the 
shore, whither I immediately followed them. The old woman, preceding 
her husband, went up to a circle of stones, of which there were two or three 
on the spot, and kneeling down within it cried most loudly and bitterly for 
the space of two or three minutes, while Toolemak also shed abundant tears, 
but without any loud lamentation. On inquiring presently after, I found 
that this was the spot on which their tent had been pitched in the summer, 
and that the bed-place on which the old woman knelt had been that of their 
adopted son Noogloo, whose premature death we had all so much regretted, 
The grief displayed on this occasion seemed to have much sincerity in it, 
and there was something extremely touching in this quiet but unaffected 
tribute of sorrow on the spot, which so forcibly reminded them of the object 
of their parental affection. I have much gratification in adding in this place 
another circumstance which, though trifling in itself, deserves to be no- 
ticed as doing honour to these people’s hearts. They had always shewn par- 
ticular attachment to a dog they had sold me, and which bore the same 
name as a young man, ason of their own, whom they had formerly lost. In 
the course of this journey, the old woman would constantly call the dog 
‘“‘ Eerninga” (son), which the affectionate animal never failed to repay by 
jumping up and licking her face all over, whenever his trace would allow 
him ; and at night, after Toolemak had fed his own dogs, he frequently 
brought to our tent an extra piece of meat expressly for Annowtalik, to whom 
these poor people seemed to take a mournful pleasure in now transferring 
their affection. 

Landing close to the head of the inlet on the south shore, we proceeded 
with difficulty a couple of miles over land till we came toa river, the limits 
of which the warmth of the weather was just rendering discernible, and 
which our guides informed us was to be our fishing-place. It was interest- 


ing to 
the be 
Toole 
was h 
or eve 
upon 
solid « 
and lit 
The E 
hook 
in attr 
well c 
so as te 
horn, 
in mot 
lower : 
the olc 
words, 
in a f 
whole 
to who 
seems 
to our 
and th 
our la 
On t 
on the 
the se 
came 
fashio 
single 
back t 
being | 
up wi 
soon 
had j 
Tool 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 439 


ing to observe that, in every case of doubt as to the situation of a place, yuh 
7 ‘ une. 

the best route, or the most advisable method of overcoming any difficulty, 
Toolemak invariably referred to his wife ; and a consultation of some minutes 
was held by these two before they would determine on what was to be done, 
or even return an answer to our questions respecting it. Pitching our tents 
upon the banks of the river, we went upon the ice, which was stiil quite 
solid except close to the shores, and soon made two or three holes for a hook 
and line, the thickness of the ice in the middle being from six to seven feet. 
The Esquimaux fish-hook is generally composed of a piece of ivory, having a 
hook of pointed iron, without a barb, let into it. The ivory they consider useful 
in attracting the salmon, but they also bait the hook with a piece of blubber 
well cleared of its oil by chewing, and securely tied on with a thread of sinew 
so as to cover nearly the whole of the hook. A small piece of bone, rein-deer’s 
horn, or wood, serves as a rod, and with this they keep the bait constantly 
in motion up and down, the bait being from one to three feet below the 
lower surface of the ice. Previously however to commencing the fishery, 
the old lady, who took the principal part in this employment, muttered some 
words, to me altogether incomprehensible, over the hole, to which Toolemak 
in a formal manner, added something about fish and Kadloonas; and the 
whole of this preparatory ceremony seemed intended to propitiate the spirit, 
to whose department the salmon particularly belonged. The lady (for it 
seems she is a female) did not, however, appear to lend a very favourable ear 
to our wants or Toolemak’s rhetoric, for after many hours’ patient trial on this 
and the following day, only two fish were scen and one caught to repay Thur. 26. 
our labour. ’ 

On the 27th Toolemak and his wife went over to: a small shallow lake Frid. 27. 
on the opposite side of the river, where they caught three or four fish of 
the salmon kind, but none more than one pound in weight. He then 
came back to the tent, and made a small spear according to their own 
fashion ; but with this, to his great disappointment, he could not strike a 
single fish. A sort of fish-gig, which we made out of four large hooks lashed 
back to back at the end of a light staff, succeeded much better, the bait 
being played in the usual manner to attract the fish, which were then hooked 
up with great ease anc: certainty by this instrument. In this manner we 
soon caught a dozen of the same kind as before, and the rest of our party 
had in the mean time killed a deer. 

Toolemak began now to be extremely impatient to return home, his prin- Sat. 28. 


440 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


cipal anxiety arising, I believe, from a childish desire to know what I 
should give him for his trouble ; and when, in writing a note to Lieutenant 
Nias, 1 enumerated the articles I intended to present to him, he expressed 
more delight than I had ever before seen escape him. Among these 
was one of the -ifle-guns supplied as presents, together with a sufficient 
quantity of ammunition to last him one summer, after which the gun would 
probably become useless itself for want of cleaning. It was astonishing to 
see the readiness with which these people learned to fire at a mark, and 
the tact they displayed in every thing relating to this art. Boys from twelve 
to:sixteen years of age would fire a fow'ing-piece, for the first time, with 
perfect steadiness ; and the men, with very little practice, would very soon 
become superior marksmen*. As, however, the advantage they could derive 
from the use of fire-arms must be of very short duration, and the danger 
_to any careless individuals very considerable, we did not on any other occa- 
sion consider it prudent to furnish them in this manner. 

On the morning of the 28th, Toolooak left us for the ships, carrying with 
him our venison to be left there, and having first explained when and where 
the Esquimaux catch the fish with which he had supplied us the preceding 
summer ; for it now appeared that they were not found in great abundance, 
or of that magnitude, in the river; but at the mouth of a very small stream 
about two miles lower down the creek on the same side. Their method is, 
to place in the bed of the stream, which is quite narrow and seldom or 
never so deep as a man’s middle though running with great force, two or 
three separate piles of stones, which serve the double purpose of keeping off 
the force of the stream from themselves, and of narrowing the passage 
through which the fish have to pass in coming up from the sea to feed ; thus 
giving the people an opportunity of striking them with their spears, and 
throwing them on shore without much difficulty. We at first supposed that 
the salmon ascended the stream into lakes above for the purpose of spawn- 
ing; but this could not here be the case, as the water became much too 
shallow for this at less than a hundred yards from the sea. Our fishermen 


* A fine lad, of about sixteen, being one day out in a boat with one of our gentlemen at 
Arlagnuk, reminded him, with a serious face, that he had laid a gun down full-cocked. 
There happened to be no charge in the gun at the time; but this was a proof of the attention 
the boy had paid to the art of using fire-arms, as well as an instance of considerate and manly 
caution, scarcely to have been expected in an individual of that age. 


afterw 
playin 
consis 
latter 
from | 
which 
to the 
stream 
for it ; 
fresh : 
Afte 
only st 
same k 
almost 
every § 
during 
lakes Vv 
dissolv 
thin an 
The 
Mr. C 
tents ; 
stream 
Captaii 
subseq 
then sc 
disting 
princip 
among 
case Ww 
There 
lent fe 
lakes ¢ 
tailed : 
snow-g 
bird lik 
fairly a 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 4th 


afterwards found that they never went up a quarter of that distance, merely 
playing about the entrance to pick up their food, which was found. to 
consist of a very small fish abundant at the mouth of the stream. The 
latter are probably therefore brought down by the. streams at.this season 
from the lakes above, and occasion the salmon to resort to the spots in 
which, it seems, they are annually found by the Esquimaux. With respect 
to their spawning, it does not appear necessary for them to ascend any 
streams for that purpose, if abundance of fresh water be all that is requisite 
for it; as the water of the creek was not merely drinkable, but perfectly 
fresh almost down te its entrance. 

After Toolemak’s departure. we remained two or three days longer, but 
only succeeded in killing one more deer and three or four dozen fish of the 
same kind and size as before. The whole country had by this time become 
almost deluged with water, innumerable ponds and streams appearing on 
every side, as if all at once let loose by magic; so rapid had been the change 
during a single week of fair and temperate weather! The ice onthe deep 
lakes was from five to seven feet in thickness, and bade fair not to be entirely 
dissolved during the summer; that on the shallow ones was already very 
thin and rapidly decaying. 

The river we were now leaving, and which I named after my companion 
Mr. Crozier, was about three hundred yards in breadth abreast of our 
tents; but this part afterwards proved only a small branch of it, the nain 
stream coming from the south-eastward along the foot of the hills which 
Captain Lyon was endeavouring to pass ; and indeed, as we had every reason 
subsequently to believe, being the very route he had pursued, though it was 
then so completely covered with snow in most parts as to allow the ice to be 
distinguished only in a few places. The rocks in this neighbourhood are 
principally composed of a reddish granite, but gneiss also frequently appears 
among them. The sides of many of these are quite precipitous, in which 
case water, either ina stream or a lake, is generally found at their base. 
There is, however, between the hills abundant vegetation, affording excel- 
lent feeding for the deer which were at this time very scarce here. The 
lakes and ponds are the resort of numerous ducks of the king and. long- 
tailed species, and a few red-throated divers. We saw also some brent and 
snow-geese, and Mr. Crozier obtained a single specimen of the latter. A 
bird like a crane, standing three or four feet high, and with very long legs, 


fairly outran our party in a long chase, and then with difficulty rose on the 
31 


mt 


Lis Se aR a ROPE ALOR SAO EGP I 


442 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY. 


1823. wing. We supposed this to have been the ardea canadtensis, one of which 
wats species was killed by Captain Lyon on his journey back to the ships. 


July. On the afternoon of the lst of July we shifted our tents over land and 
Tues. 1. down the creek as far as the salmon stream. In performing this short 
journey over bare ground, I was enabled to form some conception of the 
difficulties likely to be encountered by Captain Lyon and his companions. 
for even with our light load the dogs could scarcely move at times. One of 
the strongest of eleven fell down in a fit, occasioned by over-exertion; the 
poor animal lay on his side, foaming at the mouth for a minute or two, but 
soon recovered sufficiently to be able to walk; and being taken out of the 
sledge was quite strong again the next day. We had scarcely arrived at 
the stream, when Toolemak’s account was very satisfactorily confirmed by 
our finding on the ice near its mouth part of two fine salmon, above two 
feet in length, that had been thrown up by the force of the torrent, and a 
similar one was seen in the water. Our provisions being now out, we pre- 
pared for returning to the ships the following day ; and I determined in a 
short time to send out Mr, Crozier with a larger party, well equipped with 
every thing necessary for procuring us hoth fish and deer. We therefore 
left our tent, spare ammunition, and various other articles that would be 
required here, buried under a heap of stones near ihe stream, and on the 
morning of the 2d, set out for the ships. The change which one week had 
made upon the ice it is quite impossible to conceive, the whole surface being 
now chequered with large and deep pools of water, where not a symptom of 
thawing had before appeared. This continued the whole way to the ships, 
which we reached at eight P.M., finding Captain Lyon and his party returned, 
after a laborious but unsuccessful endeavour to penetrate over land to the 
westward. The following account of this excursion was accompanied by a 
chart illustrating the position of the mountainous land and the daily route 
of the party, which have been transferred to the general survey. 


“On the 9th separating from Captain Parry, we proceeded in a S.S.E. 
direction over what appeared a level plain, while on the right our view was 
bounded by rugged mountains of granite. As we advanced the weather 
gradually thickened, anda heavy 8S.W. wind accompanied by small snow and 
drift, hid the land from us, so that we could strike into no direct course for 
the sledge. At noon therefore, having travelled three hours, we tented on 


ee oe Se ee el ae a ee ae ee a | ee ee kee 


a 


Fahrenheit’s 
Thermometer. 


Pia xe 
MueM, 


inches, 


30.03 
30.31 
30.40 
30.28 
30.05 
29.90 
29.98 
29.95 
20.64 
29.45 
29.38 
20.29 
29.30 
29.50 
29.90 
30.07 
80 02 
30.04 
30.12 
30.42 
30.61 
30,52 
$0.41 
30.30 
80.28 
30.26 
80.10 
29.97 
20.72 
20.68 


inches. 


30.03 
80.32 
$0.10 
29.92 
29.84 
29.83 
29.70 
20.44 
29.40 
29.35 
28.96 
29.17 
29.37 
209.86 
30.00 
20.82 
29.84 
30.05 
30.16 
30.49 
30.36 
30.33 
30.28 
80.26 
80.10 
29.08 
20.74 
20.56 
20.60 


Barometer. | 


Mean, 


inches, 


29.987 
30.175 
30.363 
30.218 
29.067 
29.870 
29,927 
29.857 
20.542 
29.420 
29.368 
29,102 
29.252 
20.597 
29.937 
30.035 
29.915 
29.933 
$0,008 
30.285 
30.504 
30.460 
30,362 
30,285 
30.270 
30,163 
80.016 
20.833 
29.648 
29,540 


North 
NNW 
NW 


West 
'N, Westerly 

West 

NW 


Prevailing 
Winds. 


Direction. ona 


light 
strong 
light 
light 
light 
fresh 
light 
modt. 
fresh | 
light 
light 
fresh 
fresh 
modt. 
light 
light 
light 
modt. 
modt, 
muodt, 
light 
light 
light 
light 
light 
light 
light 
light 
light 
light 


ABSTRACT of the METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL kept on board His Majesty’s Ship 
Fury, at Igloolik, during the Month of June, 1823. 


Prevailing 
Weather. 


cloudy 
fine 
clear 
cloudy 
hazy and small snow 
cloudy 
cloudy 
cloudy 
cloudy 
hazy and snow 
hazy and snow 
hazy and snow 
cloudy 
cloudy 
cloudy and snow 
fine 
cloudy 
cloudy—snow at times 
cloudy 
clear 


cloudy 


444 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


the snow to wait for better weather; thermometer 40°. Towards evening 
the snow ceased, and at six P.M. we again moved forward over a plain so 
flat that I fancied it was a lake, until by accidentally breaking through the 
deep crust of snow which covered it, we saw moss and grass. At thirty 
minutes after eight the weather again thickened, but before it did so we 
were enabled to observe that the low land ran for several miles in a southerly 
direction. The granite mountains at this part assumed a more rounded 
form and were entirely covered with snow. Having travelled in the course 
of this day above eight hours, S.S-E., we tented for the night on the snow. 
A heavy gale with thick snow and drift continued to render us very uncom- 
fortable at a temperature of 25°. 

‘* This severe weather continued until five P.M. on the 10th, when the 
snow ceased, but the sky was so cloudy, and the view so limited that we 
remained completely in the dark as to our road. Determining however to 
attempt to make some westing, we ascended some high and rounded hills in 
nearly a west direction. The recently fallen snow was so deep that the dogs 
were buried to their bellies, and even our snow-shoes were but of little assist- 
ance to us. A flock of seven ducks passed us flying to the south-west. After 
two hours’ extreme exertion we reached the summit of the smooth hills, and 
thence saw a chain of mountains lying immediately across our path at about 
three miles’ distance. 

‘¢ Heavy snow and calm weather obliged us to tent on the hills, which, on 
clearing away the snow for a sleeping-place, we found to be covered with 
shingle limestone on a bed of yellow marl. Thermometer, at ten P.M., 20°. 
Heavy snow all night; and on the 11th it still continued to fall thickly until 
thirty minutes after three P.M., when clearing a little, 1 determined on 
attempting to pass through a small opening in the mountains about W.S.W. 
of us. The snow which had now fallen with but little intermission for two 
days and nights was so deep, that we proceeded very slowly and with great 
labour, and the mountains were as completely covered as in the middle of 
winter. After two hours’ toil in ascending a steep hill we arrived on what 
we conceived was good table land, when we suddenly found ourselves on the 
brink of a precipice, and a chain of mountains extending from north to S.E. 
On stopping the sledge it sank ‘so deep in a wreath of snow that all our 
efforts to move it were in vain; the dogs were quite overcome, and we were 
quite at a stand. We therefore unloaded it and threw away about one hun- 
dred weight of such things as could be spared, after which about half an 


resolv 
of the 
travel 
obser 
“A 
a part 
had s¢ 
ing th 
obtain 
“A 
along 
saw a 
Five |] 
this pe 
for so 
quima 
feet w 
seeing 
swerc 
passec 
miles 
shingl 
us on 
the sn 
“4 
unaba 
out ha 
hours, 
to whi 
hours 
fatigui 
distre: 
of the 
P.M., 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. ' 445 


hour's labour extricated it. When reloaded it overset and I was almost 1823. 
tempted to abandon it, for I saw how impossible it was for even anunloaded Caw 
man to climb the snow-covered and steep mountains west of us. I however 
resolved at last on returning to the low land, and by tracking along the foot | 
of the hills, jook out for the first opening to the westward. Seven hours’ 
travelling over the plain brought us to the foot of a mountain which I had 
observed to bear about S.E., and here we tented. 

‘A heavy snow-gale confined us to the tent during the 12th and 13th, and 12. & 13. 
a part of the 14th, a few minutes’ sun at noon on the 13th, (the first time we 
had seen it since leaving Captain Parry,) gave me an opportunity of obtain- 
ing the meridian altitude, and on the 14th by sights for the chronometer, I 
obtained the longitude. Lat. 69°15’ 6” long., 1° 11’ 80" W. of Hecla. 

“‘ At five P.M. on the 14th, we proceeded in a south-easterly direction 14, 
along the foot of the rocky hills. On the snow which was very soft we 
saw a bear’s track, and on a patch of shingle found several sea-shells. 
Five hours’ travelling brought us to the end of the chain of hills, and from 
this point we saw the ship with a glass about N.E., twenty miles. I had 
for some time suspected that we had taken the wrong route, as no Es- j 
quimaux could have passed with a sledge over the mountains at whose 
feet we had been travelling ; I had however better hopes at this place by } 
seeing the hills become lower and trend to the south-westward, which an- i 
swered in a great measure with the Esquimaux description of the land they 


miles in length, and near it was a small but deep craggy ravine. On the 

shingle ridges we saw several Esquimaux circles, and a golden plover passed 

us on the wing. Travelling hence about three miles southerly we tented on ' 

the snow, the wind being at N.W., and the night extremely cold. ; 
‘ The morning of the 15th was thick and cold and the N.W. wind was 45, 

unabated. Soon after noon we proceeded in a westerly direction but with- 


passed over. At the foot of this point lay a narrow lake of about three Hi | 
9 


out having any fixed object to guide us. In this manner we travelled for two ‘i 


hours, when the weather clearing we saw the hills turning to the southward, 
to which direction we altered our course ; and having gone forward for two 
hours more, tented on the snow fora short time as two of the dogs were so 
fatigued as to be scarcely able to walk. In fact, the whole of them were much 
distressed, for they were unaccustomed to land travelling, and the depth 
of the snow always caused the sledge to hang as adead weight. At nine 
P.M., having rested, we proceeded and travelled until one A.M. the 


17. 


18, 


446 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


16th, when we tented on some flat rocks on which we procured abundance 
of water, which luxury we had hitherto enjoyed but sparingly. We here 
saw one small plant of saxifrage in blossom. 

“The morning of the 16th was mild and fine, but towards noon wind 
and sleet came strong from the westward : as our snow-shoes required repair 
and our feet were much blistered, I took advantage of our being on a 
good dry rock to refresh ourselves and dogs. We saw a fox, two plovers, 
and several buntings. Deer tracks were numerous and recent, but the howl- 
ing and fighting of our wild and restless dogs quite drove the animals away 
from us. 

** In the evening we advanced and, following the direction of the moun- 
tains on our right, made a south-easterly course over a large lake of about 
ten miles in length by from one to four in breadth, on the shores of which 
in some places the ice was pushed up in high transparent hummocks, we 
saw some wolf tracks, and a few plovers, knots, and sandlings. One deer 
passed at a distance. At this place there was not an eminence in any direc- 
tion which was without some piles of stones placed by the Esquimaux 
hunters. Turning the hills to the S.S.W. we passed over low but exceed- 
ingly rocky ground, amongst. which the snow was continually knee-deep, 
and the poor dogs were so exhausted that we were obliged to stop on a 
little rock in a lake at the foot of the mountains. The whole day had been 
so cloudy and thick that we had no idea of what kind of country lay beyond 
us. The snow was literally covered by deer-tracks, and we saw three of 
these animals but the dogs frightened them from us. 

‘* A fresh easterly wind was blowing on the 17th, which was very cold. 
In order to obtain a view amongst the mountains, I walked out, accompanied 
by one of the men, for nine hours, and we got about eight miles south of the 
tent to the top of the highest place we could find. From hence we saw 
about fifteen miles over other mountains extending from north io south-east, 
while on the left the appearance of low land was unaltered. On our return, 
we killed a doe, of which I gave the better halfas a refreshment to the dogs. 
At half-past two P.M. on the 18th we started south-east about eight miles over 
a lake to a low point, at which we were obliged to tent for the night, in conse- 
quence of a heavy snow-storm which prevented our seeing half a mile in any 
direction. While tenting, a large buck walked slowly past us, and was 
killed ; of this animal we gave two-thirds to the dogs. | 
“ The night was bleak and tempestuous, and we found on the morning 


of the 
count 
pierci 
P.M. 
whic 
miles, 
moun 
this p 
west 
brisk] 
a swe 
now 
whic 
the 
high 
on-wa 
Quilli 
some 
ae 
shoul: 
and i 
and a 
passe 
hours 
the li 


se 7 


were 
to a¢ 
soon. 
acou 
up fo 
fatign 
sprai 
beco) 
the p 
shot 

flock 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 447 


of the 19th that the snow had fallen some inches in depth, and the whole 1823. 


une. 


country round us was covered. Towards noon it ceased snowing, but the Uw 


piercing cold gale was unabated and drift flew in clouds. Soon after two 
P.M. we quitted the point for another, which still bore about south-east, at 
which we arrived, after passing over a very flat plain or lake for about seven 
miles. The snow was here firmer than we had found it of late, and the 
mountains formed a bight of about four miles in depth on our right. From 
this point a distant part of the range bore south, and promised to turn to the 
westward, as we could see nothing beyond it; we in consequence proceeded 
briskly for it, and had travelled six miles or half-way, when we saw it take 
a sweep to very distant hills, south-east. All my hopes of making westing 
now ceased, and I was aware that nothing could be done in this direction, 
which certainly was not the route crossed by the natives in their passage to 
the Western Sea. I therefore struck from off the plain to the foot of the 
high land about three miles on our right, where we tented, and I determined 
on-waiting till the gale should moderate, when I could retrace my steps to 
Quilliam Creek, and from thence proceed, if the season would permit, in 
some other direction. 

“ The north-east gale continued during the fore part of the day, yet I 
should have set out had it not been for the severe pain it caused our faces, 
and its influence on our snow-shoes, which it sometimes turned quite aside 
and almost tripped us up. Four large white birds, with black-tipped wings, 
passed at some distance. In the afternoon we started, and travelling eight 
hours over the snow, which was somewhat hardened by the gale, reached 
the little rocky isle on which we had passed the 17th. 

‘* The wind was unabated on the 21st, and at three P.M. we started, but 
were soon detained by one of the dogs slipping his harness and giving chase 
to a couple of deer, which he pursued with great spirit to the hills, where he 
soon disappeared, regardless of all our cries to stop him. At the expiration of 
a couple of hours, and when we had advanced two or three miles, giving him 
up for lost, we saw him tracking our footsteps, and he soon came up much 
fatigued. We travelled nine hours on this day, yet very slowly, for I had 
sprained my foot amongst the rocks some days before and it had now 
become very troublesome. Soon after midnight we arrived and tented at 
the place where we slept on thé 16th; deer were abundant, and a buck was 
shot near the tent. We this day saw four brent-geese and several large 
flocks of ducks. 


20. 


21. 


oe eee 


se: ee ath Sree x A ph fh aE 


June. 
P\ 
22. 


25, 


448 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


«* As my leg was swoln and painful, I determined on resting for the day, 
which was warm but gloomy, the thaw proceeding very rapidly. With the 
exception of saxifrage, I observed no plant in bloom, but the giasses and 
mosses were shooting luxuriantly, and promised abundant provision to the 
vast quantities of deer which we continually saw. In fact, such was their 
number, that had we been employed as a shooting, instead of a travelling 
party, we might have procured enough to supply both ships constantly, were 
they not too distant for the conveyance of the venison. 

** The 23d was fine and very warm, which softened the snow so much that 
the snow-shoes sank several inches at every step. Starting at five P.M., we 
travelled for nine hours over the still deeply-covered plain, in order to reach 
the point whence we had seen the ships; we here found the valley quite 
flooded, and the ravine beginning to run. While we were tenting, we saw a 
fox prowling on a hill-side, and heard him for some hours after, in different 
places, imitating the cry of the brent-goose. The night was cold, and we 
felt it very sensibly after the most sultry day I ever remember to have seen 
in this country ; our faces and hands smarted most severely and were much 
swollen by the scorching of the sun. The 24th was also a very hot day, and 
I found the country so universally flooded that I gave up all idea of procced- 
ing for Quilliam Creek, and determined during the night to make for the 
ships. When the evening cooled we proceeded over the plain, and wading, 
rather than walking, through deep snow and water for cight hours, arrived 
at four A.M. on the 25th at the sea-side, about eight miles to the south-west 
of the ships. Here we gladly tented and rested ; Dunn killed a brown and 
ash-coloured crane (ardea canadiensis, Linn.) which pitched near us. 

“ Starting at four A.M. on the 26th, we waded for eight hours to the 
ships, and when amongst the hummocks, about a mile from the Hecla, were 
so completely buried in the wet snow, that we were obliged to make a signal 
for assistance, as we were too much fatigued to clear the sledge. _ A party 
was sent, and with their help we arrived on board at noon. 

** We had now obtained sufficient proof that no passage was piacticable 
in a southerly direction to the sca, and had also learned by experience the 
extreme difficulty of carrying a sledge over land, even with so fine a team of 
dogs as mine, That some other way might be found to obtain a view of the 
Western Sea, I was yet in hopes; but it was' not possible to pass over land 
at this time, from the state in which the thawing had left the snow. A more 
advanced period of the season might perhaps be more favourable ; but even 


the p 
to be 
an ee 
appoi 
called 
throu 
rived 
down 
cause 
could 
whicl 
before 
ice in 

Ou 
cessfu 
the st 
of ag 
mage, 
but fl 
resem 
distin 
delica 

The 
hours 
obsert 


situat 
the oj 
stated 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 449 


a walking party, laden with tent and provisions, would make but little pro- rie 
gress over the mountains.” aw 


Had it not been for our preceding year’s experience in this neighbourhood, — July. 
the present appearance of the ice, and the rapid progress which it seemed Wed. 2. 
to be daily making towards dissolution, would have flattered us with hopes of 
an early release, which, as we now too well know, must have ended in dis- 
appointment. The space we had covered with sand, and which was now 
called the canal, was from a foot to eighteen inches deep, with water 
throughout its whole extent; and such was the benefit evidently to be de- 
rived from it, that could the same thing have been carried the whole way 
down to the open water, the first south-easterly gale would probably have 
caused a total disruption, and at once liberated the ships. As it was, there 
could be little doubt that it would still very considerably facilitate our escape, 
which, with this assistance, it was reasonable to hope might yet be effected a3 
before the conclusion of the month of July, though we had still six miles of 
ice interposed between us and the open water. 

Our shooting parties to the southward had of late been tolerably suc- 
cessful, not less than two hundred and thirty ducks having been sent in to 
the ships in the course of the last week. Mr. Ross had procured a specimen 
of a gull having a black ring round its neck, and which, in its present plu- 
mage, we could not find described. This bird was alone when it was killed, 
but flying at no great distance from a flock of tern, which latter it somewhat 
resembles in size as well as in its red legs; but is on closer inspection easily 
distinguished by its beak and tail, as well as by a beautiful tint of most 
delicate rose-colour on its breast. : 

The first continued rain that we had seen this season fell for several " 
hours on the morning of the 2d, though a few drops had before been | Md 
observed on the 15th and 29th of June. For the remainder of the month py ie 
of July we experienced a great deal of rain and fog, with long southerly and Beit 
easterly winds, and a high mean daily temperature. Wau | 

On my arrival at the ships I found several new Esquimaux on board who, eal ee 
to the number of twenty, had lately arrived from Toondonee-rdochiuk, a place eas A ! 
situated to the westward and northward of Igloolik and somewhere upon ‘ 
the opposite coast of Cockburn Island. The distance to this place was 
stated by the Esquimaux to be from six to eight days’ journey, of which one 
3 M 


aie a 


Ss 


TRS ie OE are 
a : - rt; ; x ~ + 


Frid. 4. 


SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


450 


only was occupied in crossing to the great northern inlet we had seen on 
this side of Cockburn Island, and the rest in travelling overland to a corre- 
sponding inlet of the sea, on the other. This party confirmed the former 
account respecting the two ships that had been forced on shore ; and indeed, 
as an earnest of its truth, one man named Adloo, who was said to have actu- 
ally seen them in this state, was a day or two afterwards met by our people 
at Arlagnuk, while travelling to the southward, and having on his sledge a 
great deal of wood of the same kind as that before described. 

This information having excited considerable interest, Lieutenant Hopp- 
ner, who had taken great pains to ascertain the facts correctly, volunteered 
his services to accompany some of the Esquimaux, who were said to be going 
northwards very shortly, and to obtain every information on this and other 
subjects which might lie within the scope of such a journey. Although I 
was not sanguine as to his principal object of reaching one or more of the 
Esquimaux stations on the northern shores of Cockburn Island, with guides 
so uncertain and capricious, yet I could not but consider the attempt as 
likely to produce something of interest ; more especially as we had never been 
able to approach in the ships those parts of the coast which would constitute 
their first or second day’s journey. I therefore directed Lieutenant Hoppner 
to proceed on this service, accompanied by three men, and four of the Hecla’s 
best dogs to assist in carrying their baggage. On the night of the 4th, 
having heard that a party of the Esquimaux intended setting out the follow- 
ing morning, Lieutenant Hoppner and his. people went out to their tents to 
be in readiness to accompany them. We were surprised to find, the next 
day, that not only Lieutenant Hoppner’s intended guide, but the whole of 
the rest of these people, had altogether left the island and, as it afterwards 
proved, permanently for the summer. We were now therefore, for the first 
time since our arrival here, entirely deserted by the natives, only two or 
three of whom again visited the ships during the remainder of our stay. It 
appears probable, indeed, that these wandering people are in the habit of 
residing at their various stations only at particular intervals of time, perhaps 
with the intention of not.scaring the walruses and seals too much by a very 
long residence at one time upon the same spot. What made this appear still 
more likely was the present state of their winter habitations at [gloolik which, 


though offensive enough at about the same time the preceding year, were then 


wholesome and comfortable in comparison. Besides quantities of putrid 
walrus flesh, blubber, and oil, carcasses of dogs and even of human beings 


recer 
What 
a sec 
and ¢ 
lake | 
this | 
huts | 
tainl} 
a sor 
natio1 
On 
and F 
trawl- 
the sl 
days: 
takin; 
fisher 
the 
Ou 
havin; 
Islan 
Mr. 
havin 
prece 
short 
same 
beside 
mensé 
maux 
Fin 
own 4q 
to the 
to enc 
the p 
were 
long a 
pitche 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 451 


recently deceased were now to be seen exposed in their neighbourhood. 18%. 
What remained of the corpse of Keimooseuk was of course wholly uncovered ; ow 
a second of a child on which the wolves had feasted, was also lying about ; 

and a third, of a newly-born infant, was discovered in the middle of a small 

lake by Mr. Richards, who caused them all to be buried under ground. All 

this seemed to indicate, that the Esquimaux had not occupied the bone 

huts for at least one winter previous to our arrival, though Igloolik cer- 
tainly appears to be one of their principal rendezvous, forming, as it were, 

a sort of central link in the very extensive chain of these people’s peregri- 
nations. 

On the 6th we despatched a party of four men, under Messrs. Crozier Sun. 6. 
and Bird, to the fishing station at Quilliam Creek, equipping them with a 
trawl-net and. every other requisite for obtaining a supply of salmon for 
the ships, Soon after Captain Lyon, who was desirous of occupying a few 
days in shooting .in that neighbourhood, also set off in the same direction, 
taking with him a small skin-boat which he had constructed for the use of our 
fishermen, and which proved of great service in shooting the net across 
the mouth of the stream. 

Our stock of meat for the dogs being nearly expended, and no sea-horses 
having yet been seen near the shore, I sent Mr. Ross with a sledge to Tern 
Island on the 13th, in ‘expectation of being supplied by the Esquimaux. Sun. 13. 
Mr. Ross returned on the 14th without success, the whole of the natives Mon. 14. 
having left the island after plundering the birds’ nests, as they had done the 
preceding year. The open water was at this time about a mile and a half 
short of the island, differing little, if any thing, from its position at the 
same season of the last year. The birds now the most abundant here, 
besides tern which were also numerous, were eider-ducks, of which im- 
mense flocks were flying about; and it is their eggs for which the Esqui- 
maux principally visit the island. 

Finding that our valuable dogs must be now wholly dependent on our Tues. 15. 
own exertions in providing meat, a boat from each ship was carried down 
to the neighbourhood of the open water, and shortly afterwards two others, 
to endeavour to kill walruses for them. This was the more desirable from 
the probability of the Fury’s passing her next winter where no natives 
were resident, and the consequent necessity of laying in our stock for that 
long and dreary season, during the present summer. Our people therefore 
pitched their tents near the old Esquimaux habitations ; and thus were four 
3M 2 


452 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


boats constantly employed whenever the weather would permit, for the three 
succeeding weeks. 

On the 16th Lieutenant Hoppner and his party returned to the ships, 
having only been enabled to travel to the south shore of Cockburn Island, 
on account of their guides not yet proceeding any farther. Two of the 
Esquimaux accompanied our travellers back to Igloolik and, being loaded 
with various useful presents from the ships, returned home the following 
day. Lieutenant Hoppner’s account of his journey, comprising several 
anecdotes tending to shew the disposition and habits of these people, is 
here given in his own words. 


“ We left the ship at fifteen minutes past eleven P.M. on the 4th, 
and arrived at the Esquimaux tents about five in the morning. The 
Esquimaux were all asleep, but being disturbed by the noise of our arrival, 
they flocked round us to know the cause of so early a visit. Our intention of 
accompanying them seemed to afford great amusement, and many jokes were 
passed apparently at our expense. Having rested about two hours, we were 


disturbed by the whispers and stifled laugh of the women and children ; and 
on going out found the tents all struck, the men already gone, and every 
appearance of the party, with whom we intended to travel, having fairly given 
us theslip. This unexpected departure somewhat embarrassed us; but we im- 
mediately prepared to follow them, and were relieved from our anxiety by find- 
ing that they were still at the edge of the ice. Perceiving we were really in 
earnest, and that our dogs, of which they had only a few wretched animals, were 
likely to be of use to them, Erichiuk suffered us to place the loads upon his 
sledge. We left Keiyuk-tarruoke at thirty minutes past nine, in company with 
four other sledges ; and after clearing the grounded hummocks, travelled at 
a good pace ina north-easterly direction. When we got about five miles from 
Igloolik, the water became knee deep on the ice, which rendered walking 
extremely fatiguing. The men and several of the women dispersed them- 
selves in all directions in pursuit of seals; whilst the sledges were left entirely 
to the management of the females who remained by them. Our assistance 
soon became necessary, and before the end of the day we quite gained their 
favour. It was at first the intention of the men to go to Tern Island to collect 
eggs, but about seven P.M. the weather assuming a threatening appear- 
ance, they determined to encamp on the ice. The number of stoppages, and 


the w 
rende 
as we 
we at 
but o1 
nishe¢ 
and p 
encar 
free fi 
their 
only 
ed | 
thirty 
direct 
seals 
after | 
cularly 
tent o 
womel! 
pulled 
pleasa 
fond « 
withou 
full of 
maste1 
the me 
ready, 
the fea 
** Or 
Esquin 
blindn 
the wo 
and th 
their a 
height, 
after a 
all-so 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 453 


the winding course which we made to pick up the seals left by the hunters, 
rendered the day’s journey extremely fatiguing and unpleasant, particularly 
as we suffered a good deal from cold, After travelling about twenty miles, 
we at length halted at thirly minutes past seven P.M. As we had nothing 
but our blanket-bags to place between us and the ice, Erichiuk kindly fur- 
nished us with staves procured from the ships, with which we floored the tent, 
and passed the night much more comfortably than we had anticipated. The 
encampment was formed onasmall dry ridge of ice, almost the only spot 
free from water that we had scen during the afternoon. In consequence of 
their success, the Esquimaux passed the evening feasting on raw flesh; 
only one or two taking the trouble to light their lamps. 

“ The weather being fine on the 6th, we broke up the encampment at 
thirty minutes past seven A.M., and travelled about fifteen miles in a N.N.E. 
direction. The hunters of both sexes again dispersing themselves, many 
seals were killed merely for their skins, and the carcasses left on the ice, 
after being deprived of the entrails, of which the Esquimaux seemed parti- 
cularly fond. At seven P.M. we landed on the north shore, and pitched our 
tent ona rocky point in the midst of the Esquimaux encampment. The 
women brought us some roots of the potentilla pulchella, which they had 
pulled whilst collecting dwarf-willow for their fires, and which had a 
pleasant flavour, resembling liquorice, but not so sweet. They seemed 
fond of it, and had brought in a considerable quantity, which they ate 
without cleansing from the soil. Nearly all the women had large kettles 
full of seals’ flesh boiling outside of the tents; when it was ready the 
master of the tent announced it by three loud shouts, to collect the rest of 
the men to partake of it. They had scarcely finished one before another was 
ready, to which they were again summoned; and in this manner they kept up 
the feast until a late hour. 

“On the 7th the weather was gloomy with light rain occasionally. The 
Esquimaux remained at home all day, most of them being laid up with snow- 
blindness, No intelligence could be gained relative to.their future movements ; 
the women, who are always the most communicative, seemed to know nothing ; 
and the men were cither heedless of our inquiries, or very unsatisfactory in 
their answers. The land gradually rose behind our tents to hills of considerable 
height, well clothed with herbage, and seeming likely to afford game; but 
after a long walk we saw only a few deer-tracks, two grouse, and some ducks, 
all-so wild that it was impossible to get near them. From the top of a 


= ug 


454 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


hill about three miles N.E.b.E. from the tents, we saw a wide expanse of 
ice, bounded by high land to the northward, apparently about the same dis- 
tance as Neerlo-nakto was from us. Its eastern point, which seemed low, 
bore E.N.E., and was nearly in a line with the north point of the easternmost 
of the Calthorpe Islands. Our view to the westward was bounded beyond 
N.W. by the land we stood on, which however did not appear to approach 
that seen to the northward. A strait, about three miles in breadth, and of the 
same length, separated the land we were on from the Calthorpe Islands. 
This channel was clear of ice, appeared deep, and had a strong tide or current 
setting through it to the southward, I endeavoured to learn from the Esqui- 
maux whether the land joined to the westward and formed a bay, but was 
unsuccessful in my inquiries, This inlet was named after Carrain Sin Murray 
Maxwe.t, of the Royal Navy. In the evening we visited the tent of the old 
man from 'Toonoonek, He was an Angetkok and seemed fond of exhibiting 
his skill. He sat with his arms drawn out of the sleeves of his jacket and 
apparently folded over his breast, but in reality employing his fingers tapping 
upon the skins he saton, This noise I was told was made by his Tornga, or 
spirit, and a great many questions were put to him by the bystanders ; these 
were answered by tapping in a particular manner, and the sounds were 
then interpreted by the craft of the old Angetkok. 

*“ A fine day ; nearly all the men went out sealing, accompanied by some 
of the women regularly equipped for the hunt. Our people returned in 
the evening with the carcass of a deer; they had been ten or twelve miles 
to the westward, in which direction they said the land improved in vegetation ; 
but the few living creatures which they saw were as wild as those in the 
vicinity of the tents. 

* The weather being very inclement on the 9th, confined every body within 
the tents. In the afternoon there was a dance at the Angetkok’s, where nearly 
the whole party was assembled. The old man opened the ball by a performance 
which seemed a medley of conjuring and dancing ; several other men stood up 
after him, and last of all his son: when he had finished most of the company 
retired, upon which he rushed into the tent, and seizing his youngest wife 
by the hair beat her severely. She seemed at first inclined to resist, and took 
up a tin-pot, as if intending to throw it at him; he immediately kicked her 
out of the tent, and struck her several heavy blows witha walrus tusk. His 
other wife, fearing what was to follow, had placed her child in her hood, 
as if to protect herself from the wrath of her husband, Having satisfied ‘his 


veng 
awa’ 
with 
spok 
self | 
of tl 
and | 
with 
to he 
her v 
symp 
tion ' 
took 
whils 
small 
Ange 
taking 
a few 
Toole 
thems 
behin 
mony 
mitter 
“ig 
there 
it app 
which 
their 
the Ks 
for Te 
us leg 
were 
our te 
afford 
“ 4 
and be 
first w 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 455 


vengeance on the young one, he rushed in again, and, snatching the child 
away, beat the other poor woman in a most barbarous manner over the head 
with some heavy weapon which he had snatched up on his entrance, She never 
spoke and, although streaming with blood, scarcely attempted to defend her- 
self from his fury. Having continued to use her thus for some minutes, one 
of the men present held his hand, upon which he quietly seated himself 
and remained sulky the rest of the evening, The woman retired soon after 
with her child some distance from the tent, where I found her giving vent 
to her feelings by the most piercing cries, ‘Two or three women stood round 
her who, having satisfied their curiosity, left her without shewing the slightest 
symptom of pity. ‘I'he only cause we could discover for this brutal transac- 
tion was, because they had not sung when their husband wes dancing. He 
took no notice of it at the tinie; but appears to have meditated revenge 
whilst seemingly wrapt up in his amusement, In the evening we found a 
small party assembled in the same tent to hear the different spirits whom the 
Angetkok was going to send into their presence. He came in soon after and, 
taking his station behind the screen, descended after previously putting 
a few questions to the bystanders, The performance differed very little from 
Toolemak’s. Ten torngas rose in succession, some of whom did not confine 
themselves to speaking alone, but scratched and thumped against the skin 
behind the person addressed, The Angetkok’s wife sung during the cere- 
mony, but appeared to take little interest in it, and when her duties per- 
mitted directed all her attention to us, 

* The weather was dull on the 10th, with occasional fogs. About ten A.M. 
there appeared a general move amongst our Esquimaux friends, On inquiry 
it appeared that four families were going to the eastward, whilst the party to 
which we were attached intended to remain another day, and then continue 
their journey towards Toonoonee-roochiuk, Having gone out with our guns 


the Esquimaux men of our party took advantage of our absence and set off 


for Tern Island to collect eggs; carefully concealing their intentions from 
us lest we should propose to accompany them, It was not until they 
were neatly out of sight that they told the man, who remained to look after 
our tent, where they were going, the idea of having deceived us seeming to 
afford them much amusement, 

“The early part of the [lth was hazy; towards noon it cleared away 
and became fine. We had felt rather cold during the night, which was the 
first we had found at all uncomfortable, Our men went away to the west- 


1823, 
July, 
LS ied 4 
ie 
wi | 
es i 
; } f 
A i 
“ 
i 
" 
en 
; | 
4 4 ye 
Hi 4) 
Faia 
ee ban 
o If 
} a 
10, 
} 
. 
' /; 
lI. f 


* . 
= . ‘e- . 
en ae Se A a emma 


456 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


ward in pursuit of deer; before they left the tent they informed me, that 
the women had mentioned their intention of continuing their journey next 
day towards a station where they procure fish. I made inquiries, but 
could hear nothing; and as it appeared from their previous conduct that 
they were unwilling to acquaint me with their designs, I directed the men 
to gather all the information they could. It was now become evident that 
they did not intend going direct to Toonoonee-roochiuk ; but as I con- 
ceived a longer stay with them might furnish something interesting, | 
. determined on it; more especially as the distance to Igloolik was greater 
than we could conveniently travel without diminishing our loads. The 
Esquimaux returned in the evening with a few seals, some ducks, and a 
great many eggs. They had emptied the latter out of their shells into 
walrus bladders, containing each between two and three gallons. They 
gave us two ducks and half a dozen eggs, an act of generosity of which 
they seemed to think highly, but with which we were by no means satis- 
fied, after being disappointed of a trip to the island, where we might have 
collected some for ourselves. 

‘*We remained stationary on the 12th, the Esquimaux stating that their 
dogs were too lame to travel. They buried most of their tin pots and 
iron hoops, which looked as if they intended returning soon. One of the 
women excited our attention by the ingenuity she displayed in mending 
a tin kettle which she had procured from the ships, and which had become 
unsoldered. She paid little attention to our instructions, and at length com- 
pleted the task, in her own way, by suspending the kettle over the flame of the 
lamp, and dropping pieces of solder obtained from the rim of a meat canister, 
which when melted she spread with a spike-nail over the joint. In the 
evening we were diverted by Kooeetseearioo, who went through the whole 
ceremony of raising Tornga. My men put up ascreen, behind which he 
went after some persuasion, and performed the whole of his part with 
great skill, particularly the diving scene, where he managed his voice so well 
that it really appeared to come some distance from under ground. It would 
scem from this that the art is not difficult and that, from the ridicule with 
which they seemed to treat it, they were not imposed on. The old people 
alone scemed to pay respect to the Angetkoks, while the young ones inva- 
riably treated their mysteries with conte’ pt. 

** At half-past ten A.M. on the 13th, we quitted this station, which by the 
mean of five meridian altitudes is in lat. 69° 42’ 20", and by the mean of seven 


sets 
wint 
culty 
shoc 
seen 
purs 
whic 
lying 
and 
they 
some 
man, 
did 1 
anim 
At fi 
west 
inten 
ran 0 
sive ¢ 
up 0 
after 
miles 
proct 
maux 
the n 
us to 
their 
tion 
very 
them 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 457 


sets of observations for the chronometer, in long. 00° 46’ 22" E. of the ships» 
winter station. The ice was so full of cracks and holes that it was with diffi- 
culty the sledge could proceed, and it was only enabled to stand the heavy 
shocks it received by the looseness of its construction. Two large seals being 
seen on the ice, the sledges stopped while two of the Esquimaux went in 
pursuit of them. It was full two hours before they got close to one of them, 
which they effected by crawling feet foremost towards the animal; one man 
lying concealed behind the other who, by scraping the ice with his spear, 
and moving his feet in imitation of a seal's-flipper, deceived the animal until 
they got within six or seven yards of it. They then remained stationary 
some time as if to accustom the seal to them; when at length the nearest 
man, springing on his feet, darted his spear which however striking a bone 
did not take effect. Notwithstanding the quickness of the movement, the 
animal was half down the hole before the spear quitted the man’s hand. 
At four o'clock, having advanced about fourteen miles along shore to the 
westward, the party stopped at a rocky point, where they signitied their 
intention of remaining some days. A few miles to the westward a low point 
ran out with several small islands off it. Beyond this point was an exten- 
sive opening, which the Esquimaux represented to be a bay which they go 
up on their route to Toonoonee-roochiuk, Dunn joined us about an hour 
after our arrival, with the intclligence of having killed a deer five or six 
miles to the westward. By promising the Nerooka*, a sledge was easily 
procured, upon which my two men went, accompanied by one of the Esqui- 
maux, to bring it in. Our provisions being nearly expended, I desired 
the men to endeavour to bargain with their companion for his sledge to carry 
us to Neerlonakto; whilst I also endeavoured to hire one in the event of 
their failure. Inthe evening Erichiuk and some others had a long conversa- 
tion « bout the ships going to Toonoonce-roochiuk, an event they seemed 
very anxious to bring about. He persisted in saying it was practicable for 
them to go by a western route ; and as he still continued positive after I had 
explained to him that we found the Strait blocked up by ice last summer, 
I concluded that he alluded to some other opening which the formation of 
the land precluded us from seeing at present. 


‘ The man who had promised us his sledge the preceding evening, now Mon. 14. 


* A part of the deer, before mentioned by Captain Lyon, as considered a great delicacy by 


these people. 
3N 


1823, 
July. 
ww 


Tues, 15. 


458 SECOND, VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


refused it, because we did not immediately comply with his demands for 
the deer’s sinews. In consequence of this I determined, if he persisted 
in his refusal next morning, to construct a light sledge with our boarding- 
pikes to carry qur baggage, which by this time was become tolerably light. 

‘“‘ On the receipt of the sinews and some of the flesh however, he was 
again willing to lend his sledge the following day; we therefore prepared 
to move immediately after breakfast. The latitude of this station by one 
meridian altitude was 69° 46’ 12” N., the longitude, by mean of two sets of 
sights for the chronometer, was 00° 34’ 42" east of the ships. The Esquimaux 
seemed sorry to part from us, a feeling rendered reciprocal by the kindness 
which they had uniformly shewn us. It is but justice to say that I never ex- 
perienced more attention in my life, and that their whole conduct towards 
us seemed expressive of a grateful feeling for the advantages which they had 
derived from their intercourse with the ships. Our party was increased to 
six by two of the natives joining us just as we were starting. The ice 
was tolerably smooth and had but little water on it, so that my men, who 
walked more than two-thirds of the way, did it without fatigue, and at half 
an hour past six P.M. we landed on Neerlonaktoo. Our companions, 
who had volunteered to carry us to the ships, were anxious to proceed, but 
compassion for our poor dogs would not suffer me to hear of it. Although 
these people were kind and attentive to us, they did not think it necessary 
to extend this feeling to our dogs, which were become very lame, nor would 
they even supply us with a piece of skin to make boots for them, without 
demanding an exorbitant price. Whilst on Neerlonaktoo we saw three 
deer and great numbers of geese and other water fowl, but they were so shy 
that all our attempts to get near them were ineffectual. 

‘* Leaving the island at forty-five minutes past eleven, on the 16th, we 
arrived on Igloolik at twenty minutes past one. Having loaded our own 
dogs, the Esquimaux left theirs moored to a stone, where they were to 
remain without food until their return; and walking across the island we 
reached the ships at four P.M,” 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 459 


CHAPTER XV. 


EXTRAORDINARY DISRUPTION OF ICE IN QUILLIAM CREEK-—SOME APPEARANCE OF 
SCURVY AMONG THE SEAMEN AND MARINES—ACCOUNT OF A JOURNEY WITH SLEDGES 
TO COCKBURN ISLAND——DISCOVERY OF GIFFORD‘RIVER——-COMMENCE CUTTING THE 
ICE OUTSIDE THE SHIPS TO RELEASE THEM FROM THEIR WINTER-QUARTERS— 
CONSIDERATIONS RESPECTING THE RETURN OF THE’ EXPEDITION TO ENGLAND— 
UNFAVOURABLE STATE OF THE ICE AT THE EASTERN ENTRANCE OF THE STRAIT— 
PROCEED TO THE SOUTHWARD——SHIPS BESET AND DRIFTED UP LYON INLET 
DECEASE OF MR. GEORGE FIFE-——FINAL RELEASE FROM THE ICE, AND ARRIVAL IN 
ENGLAND=——REMARKS UPON THE PRACTICABILITY OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE, 


Amonc the various changes which the warmth of the returning summer was 
now producing around us, none was more remarkable than that noticed by 


1823, 


July. 
we 


Captain Lyon on his present excursion to Quilliam Creek, and which, in a Thur. 17. 


note received from him by the return of the sledges, on the 17th, he thus 
describes: ‘‘ Between the two points forming the entrance of the creek, we 
saw a high wall of ice extending immediately across from land to land, and 
on arriving at it found that by some extraordinary convulsion the floe had 
burst upwards, and that immense masses of ice had been thrown in every 
direction. Several blocks eight or nine feet in thickness and many yards in 
diameter were lying on the level solid floe; yet we were for some time at a 
loss to discover whence they had been ejected, till at length we found a 
hole or pool, which appeared so small as to be hardly capable of containing 
the immense fragments near it; yet from this place alone must they have 
been thrown.” 

Captain Lyon subsequently added, that “ the water, which was found to 
be quite fresh was running rapidly to seaward in this opening; and it seemed 
probable that the vast accumulation from the streams at the head of the 
creek, although at about ten miles’ distance, had burst a passage and thus 
ejected the ice. The force employed for this purpose may be conceived, 

83N2 


1823, 
July. 
wry 


Frid.18. 


Sat. 19, 


460 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


when I mention that of several masses of ice one in particular was above 
eight feet thick, full forty yards in circumference, and lay more than five 
hundred yards from the pool. No traces could be found of the manner in 
which these bodies had been transported, as not a single smail fragment was 
seen lying about, to warrant the supposition that they had fallen with a 
shock. Neither were there any marks observable on the smooth un- 
cracked floe to cause a suspicion that they had slidden over it, the general 
appearance of the floe at this place being the same as at all other parts of the 
inlet, and bearing no marks of having had any rush of water over it.” 

The ducks having now nearly deserted the neighbourhood of Arlagnuk, 
and the travelling there becoming inconvenient for sledges, our shooting-party 
was removed to Igloolik and shortly after recalled on board. The number 
of ducks procured by both ships during this part of the season was about 
nine hundred, of which above two-thirds were king-ducks, and by far the 
greater part of the rest, of the long-tailed species. The weather was now, 
at times extremely sultry, bringing out: swarms of mosquitoes that soon 
became. very troublesome even on board the ship. A thermometer sus- 
pended in the middle of the observatory and exposed to the sun’s rays, was 
observed by Mr. Fisher to stand at 92° at five P.M. on the 18th. 

On the 19th Captain Lyon returned from Quilliam Creek, bringing with 
him the whole of our party stationed there, the ice being now so broken up 
in that neighbourhood as to render the fishing dangerous without proper boats. 
On this journey, which it took two days to perform, eleven dogs drew a 
weight of two thousand and fifty pounds, of which six hundred and forty 
were salmon, and ninety-five venison, procured by our people. The fish 
had all been caught in the trawl; and treble the quantity might easily have 
been taken with a seine had we known how wide the mouth of the stream 
was to become. They varied in length from twenty to twenty-six inches, 
and one of the largest, when cleaned, weighed eight pounds and a half; but 
their average weight in this state did not exceed two pounds and a quarter. 
The distance of the fishing-place from the ships, the dangerous state of the 
ice, and the soreness of the dogs’ feet from travelling on the rough honey- 
combed ice, prevented our taking any further advantage of this very accept- 
able change of diet. 

The following remarks made by Captain Lyon, during his late excursi+i:, 
furnishes some information of considerable interest to naturalists. ‘“ I had 
in the course of my walks several opportunities of observing the nests of 


many 


the | 
withe 
The 
same 
a ve 
bulk 
tioned 
of a 
nest ¢ 
of ag 
birds 
comm 
Near 
quant 
from ' 
which 
the di 
ture | 
of mi 
of the 
gener, 

Alt 
sible ¢ 
of as; 
fixed 
we la 
gettin 
point 
somev 
tenant 
a grea 
appro 
deline 
to Tor 
with | 
sledge 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 461 


many of the smaller kinds of birds. The sand-piper, (tringa cinerea), and 1823. 
the phalarope, (phalaropus platyrinchus), lay each four eggs on a tuft of www 
withered grass in swampy ground ; but no care is taken to form any nest. 
The snow-buntings and Lapland finches construct their nests in much the 
same manner as our English finches, and line them with white deer’s hair in 
a very beautiful manner. The outer part is of dried grass and rather 
bulky compared with the size of the inner nest. Each of the last men- 
tioned birds lays seven eggs, but the bunting prefers building in the crevice 
of a rock, or amongst loose stones, while the Lapland finch constructs its 
nest on the ground amongst grass and moss. Mr. Crozier found the nest 
of a snow-goose containing five eggs; and I saw seventeen of these fine 
birds walking on a hill side in a long line, as our domestic geese travel on 
commons, one acting as leader and being rather in advance of the rest. 
Near the lake in which these birds had been swimming I found an amazing 
quantity of the quill feathers of brent-geese, but saw none of the birds 
from which they had moulted. On the banks of the same piece of water, 
which was above a mile in length, I observed long ridges formed entirely of 
the dung of mice and in depth from four to five inches. I cannot conjec- 
ture how this could have been brought here, nor how so vast a quantity 
of mice could have assembled near the banks of the lake, for we saw none 
of their holes, and the ground being very swampy was not such as they 
generally frequent.” 

Although the dissolution of the ice was hourly going on, yet no very sen- 
sible alteration had taken place for some time past, such as might give us hopes 
of aspeady release from our confinement, The barrier of ice still remaining 
fixed betweén the ships and the sea was above five miles in breadth, though 
we lay at the very mouth of the bay, and the only chance of our soon 
getting out rested on an accidental crack in the floe, extending from near the 
point of Oongalovyat across to the main land, and which had lately become 
somewhat wider. Being thus detained. I determined on despatching Licu- 
tenant Hoppner once more to the northward, for the purpose of examining 
agreat bay or inlet of Cockburn Island, that we had never been able to 
approach in the ships, and which we supposed to correspond with that 
delineated by the Esquimaux in their charts, as forming the first day’s journey 
to Toonoonee-roochiuk. Lieutenant Hoppner accordingly left us on the 21st Mon, 21. 
with that intention, being accompanied by two men and furnished with a 
sledge and ten dogs. 


1823. 
July. 


ww 
Tues. 29. 


Wed. 30. 


462 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


Nothing worthy of notice occurred till the 29th, when a patch of ice a 
mile broad separated from the outer margin of our barrier and drifted 
away. The canal formed by laying sand on the ice was now quite through 
in most places, shewing that the plan would, in this latitude at least, always 
ensure a ship’s escape at an earlier season than by the regular course of 
nature, provided it could be carried the whole way down to the open 
water. 

I am now under the disagreeable necessity of entering on a subject, 
which I had at one time ventured to hope need scarcely have occu- 
pied any part of this Narrative: I mean that of the scurvy, some slight, 
but unequivocal, symptoms of which disease were this day reported to 
me by Mr. Edwards, to have, appeared among four or five of the Fury’s 
men, rendering it necessary, for the first time during the voyage, to have 
recourse to anti-scorbutic treatment among the seamen or marines. During 
our first winter, the only instance in which any such symptoms had been 
discovered occurred in Mr. Jermain, the purser of the Hecla, who 
however recovered by the usual treatment, as the summer advanced. 
This short and dubious season being ended, the carpenter and _boat- 
swain of the Hecla were also affected; and in the course of the second 
winter Mr. Jermain’s complaint returned with greater severity. In the 
months of February and March, Messrs. Henderson, Halse, and Scallon, of 
the Fury, were occasionally disposed to scurvy ; Mr. Edwards was for a week 
or two pretty severely attacked by it, and my own gums becoming some- 
what livid rendered a short course of additional lemon-juice necessary to 
restore them. These cases however shortly and permanently recovered ; 
but in the spring and even as late as the month of June, when there was 
reason to hope that every symptom of this kind would have been removed by 
the increased warmth and cheerfulness of the season, and the change of 
diet afforded by the game, the disease again made its appearance in the 
carpenter and boatswain of the Hecla, and soon after attacked the gunner 
and Mr. Fife, the Greenland master. These cases which were much more 
severe than any we had before experienced, had not now recovered, when 
the gums of four or five of the Fury’s men betrayed this insidious disease 
lurking within them, and made it necessary to administer lemon-juice to 
them in more copious quantities than ordinary. 

It will perhaps be considered a curious and singular fact in the history of 
sea-scurvy, that during the whole of the preceding part of this voyage, none 


amon; 
it, a 
cause: 
ing te 
health 
efficac 
The 
twent 
their s 
tion, e 
of wo! 
From 
sisted 
vegeta 
their ¢ 
humai 
ces sh 
for the 
vidual 
presse 
existe 
to ren 
Crisis 
cumsté 
source 
at our 
Int 
on boa 
consid 
esteen 
is here 


66 A 
the be 
sledge 
The fe 
nakto, 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 463 


amongst us but officers should have been in the slightest degree affected by 
it, a circumstance directly contrary to former experience. To whatever 
causes this might be attributed, it could not however but be highly gratify- 
ing to be thus assured, that the various means employed to preserve the 
health of the seamen and marines had proved even beyond expectation 
efficacious. 

That a ship’s company should begin to evince symptoms of scurvy after 
twenty-seven months’ entire dependence upon the resources contained within 
their ship, (an experiment hitherto unknown, perhaps, in the annals of naviga- 
tion, even for one-fourth part of that period,) could scarcely indeed be a subject 
of wonder, though it was at this particular time a matter of very sincere regret. 
From the health enjoyed by our people during two successive winters, unas- 
sisted as we had been by any supply of fresh anti-scorbutic plants or other 
vegetables, I had begun to indulge a hope that with a continucd attention to 
their comforts, cleanliness, and exercise, the same degree of vigour might, 
humanly speaking, be ensured at least as long as our present liberal resour- 
ces should last. Present appearances however seemed to indicate differently ; 
for thongh our sick-list had scarcely a name upon it, and almost every indi- 
vidual was performing his accustomed duty, yet we had at length been im- 
pressed with the unpleasant conviction that a strong predisposition to disease 
existed among us, and that no very powerful exciting cause was wanting 
to render it more seriously apparent. Such a conviction at the present 
crisis was peculiarly disagreeable ; for I could not but lament any cir- 
cumstance tending to weaken the confidence in our strength and _ re- 
sources at a time when more than ordinary exertion was about to be required 
at our hands. 

In the afternoon of the 30th, Lieutenant Hoppner and his party returned 
on board, having discovered that the inlet in question communicated with a 
considerable river, which we jointly named after our mutual and highly- 
esteemed friend Mr. Girrorp. Lieutenant Hoppner’s account of his journey 
is here subjoined. 


* Ata quarter past four we left the Hecla, and having reached the head of 
the bay at half-past six, the party whe were there in readiness carried the 
sledge across the isthmus; after which service they returned to the ship. 
The fog was now so thick that it was impossible to proceed towards Neerlo- 
nakto, we therefore kept along the land-ice of Igloolik, when supposing 


21. 


4 
4 
A 
I. 


eee See: 
sn eT PNT ARI ee 


464 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


ourselves nearly abreast of the former island, we went on shore to wait for 
better weather. 

‘Thick foggy weather continued until four P:M., on the 22d, when, it 
becoming clearer, we recommenced our journey, passing between Neerlo- 
naktoo and three small whitish islands off its south-west end, which at a 
distance are easily mistaken for hummocks of ‘dirty’ ice. The ice after- 
wards began to improve ; but we were obliged by several wide cracks extend- 
ing from Neerlo-naktoo to the west land and the islands in Richards’s Bay, 
to go some distance round to find parts sufficiently narrow to cross. At 
eleven P.M. we pitched our tent on the north-east island in Richards’s 
Bay ; the ice was so much broken up all round it that it was with difficulty 
we landed. 

«It rained hard all night, with thick hazy weather which did not clear away 
natil noon the following day. We immediately prepared to move ; but it was 
twenty-five minutes past one P.M. before we got away, owing to the time taken 
up in shoeing the dogs, which for two people was a tedious operation. We 
stood directly over towards the north land, finding the ice so bad for the first 
six or seven miles as to make it reasonable to expect that a very few days 
would render it impassable. Towards the centre of the strait it became very 
good, and continued so until we got near the north shore, where we found 
it in much the same state as on the opposite side. Several of the cracks ex- 
tended from land to land, and were so wide as to cause us muci: perplexity in 
crossing them. At a quarter past nine we landed on a low sandy beach 
which forms the south-east point of the opening we saw to the north-west, 
when on our former journey with the Esquimaux. 

‘«‘ The weather during the early part of the day was tolerably fine, but in the 
afternoon became foggy, with heavy showers of rain. The dogs being a good 
deal fagged, I determined to give them a day’s rest, expecting we should be 
able to ascertain the extent of the inlet on foot. Having waited without success 
to get the meridian altitude, I walked up the inlet and, crossing the two first 
points of land, picked up a piece of fresh skin, which convinced me that 
our friends the Esquimaux had not much the start of us. A high mount on 
the south side, about twelve or fourteen miles distant, becoming a very pro- 
minent object, I made towards it, hoping from thence to see the termination of 
the inlet, which here varied from one to three miles in breadth. At five P.M., 
finding the hill above-mentioned still too distant for me to reach on foot, | 
landed on the right-hand shore, from whence the opening appeared to extend at 


» 


least ¢ 
not ay 
a sho 
killed 
with t 
walkec 
side, 
passin 
the we 
aband 
them 
pieces 
them : 
above 
absenc 
“A 
procee 
we pu 
our re 
we pl 
told u 
one o 
journe 
place. 
mid-ci 
compl 
oursel 
it was 
when 
beach 
ice be 
its te: 
withir 
shore 
of ar 


The ti 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 465 


least a day’s journey for the sledge, continuing about the same breadth and 
not appearing to terminate even at the furthest point seen. After resting 
a short time, I returned towards the tent, determining, if our people had 
killed any thing which would furnish a supply of food for the dogs, to run up 
with the sledge next day, and if possible reach its termination. Having 
walked about five miles back, I discovered an Esquimaux tent on the north 
side, which being pitched behind a point had escaped my notice on 
passing up, and which proved to belong to some of our old friends. As 
the want of food for the dogs had made me fearful we should be obliged to 
abandon our object before its accomplishment, I immediately bargained with 
them for a supply, promising to visit them the next day. They had a few 
pieces of very tine looking fish drying on the rocks. After stopping with 
them about ten minutes I took my Icave, and, on reaching the point next 
above our tent, found that the rest of the Esquimaux had arrived during my 
absence. 


“At twenty minutes past twelve on the 25th we struck our tent and 25. 


proceeded up the inlet, stopping a few minutes at the first point, where 
we purchased some meat for the dogs, and got the promise of a seal on 
our return. At three P.M. we arrived at the tent of Erichiuk, from whom 
we purchased some more meat and a very fine salmon. The Esquimaux 
told us we might reach the head of the inlet to-day; we therefore left 
one of our dogs which was lame in Erichiuk’s charge, and resumed our 
journey, with the intention of lightening the sledge at the first convenient 
place. At four P.M., having reached two small islets situated nearly in 
mid-channel, we buried whatever we could well spare, to ensure the ac- 
complishment of our object; and having stopped half an hour to refresh 
ourselves, we set off at a quick pace. The weather was so thick that 
it was but very rarely we got a glimpse of the shores on each side of us; 
when we did, they seemed rocky and steep; but a short distance from the 
beach the land appeared well clothed with vegetation. As we advanced the 
ice became very thin and rotten, and gave indications of our approach to 
its termination: at length, about. half past nine, we found ourselves 
within fifty yards of the water, and were obliged to pick our way to the 
shore over a very rotten surface. On landing we were gratified by the sight 
of a noble sheet of water, a mile and a half in breadth and perfectly fresh. 
The tide was out, but there was no current perceptible in the middle, nor 
30 


466 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


did we notice any during the whole time of our stay. The Esquimaux had 
informed us of a large fall, but as we neither saw nor heard any thing of it, 
it must be a good way higher up, our point of view extending full fifteen 
miles, when it terminated in two bluff points, between which the stream 
seemed to wind. To these points, to all appearance, it continued about the 
same breadth, and from the colour of the water it must be deep enough for 
ships of large burden. The land on cach side was high, and where we stood 
was more closely covered with vegetation than any spot I had ever seen in 
these regions. The dwarf willow grew to a height and size almost entitling 
it to be called a shrub, and the Andromeda tetragona was in the greatest 
abundance. 

“ On the 26th I sent one of my men to the top of a high hill behind our tent, 
but his view from thence was not more extensive than what we had already 
procured. After stopping to get the meridional altitude, which gave the 
lat. 70° 06’ 42” N., the longitude, by chronometer, being 0° 39’ 48" W. of 
the ships, we sct out on our return. As the ice was broken up for two miles 
below us, we endeavoured to get on the solid floe by a narrow neck about 
one hundred yards broad ; but having got half way it proved so thin and 
rotten that I considered it better to return, than to run the risk of crossing 
it. The dogs dragged the sledge along shore until we came to the firm ice, 
performing their task much better than we expected. We now returned 
down the river, and, having picked up the things left on the island, arrived 
at the Esquimaux tents at half-nast eight. They received us very kindly, 
assisting to unload the sledge and carry the things to the top of the. hill. 
We purchased of them some very fine salmon, which they caught in a 
small rivulet emptying itself into a bay about a quarter of a mile from the 
tents. 

‘The 27th proving a fine day, the men all went out with their fishing- 
spears at high-water, but returned in a short time, saying there were no fish, 
from which it is probable that they only come here occasionally, resorting 
at other times to other places of the same description, with which the river 
abounds, The latitude of this station is 70°0' 13’ N.; longitude, by chrono- 
meter, 0° 5' 40” W. of the ships. We left our friends about one P.M. ; they 
continued civil to the last, although the temptation to rob us was too great for 
them to resist. This, however, they did in a sly sort of way, removing things 
from where we had placed them with the idea, perhaps, that we should not miss 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 467 


them until we had taken our departure. On tasting the water at this station, 
which is not more than seven or eight miles from the mouth of the opening, 
it proved nearly fresh. We kept close along the north shore, passing over 
very bad ice, with cracks extending across to the eastern part of the Strait. 
It appeared only to want a strong breeze from the westward to drive it out, 
as it was quite detached from the land. At nine P.M. we landed on a small 
rocky island, the easternmost of a group about fifteen miles from the spot where 
we left the Esquimaux on our former journey. From this point I could see 
both the places we visited during that trip, and could now clearly ascertain 
that the land was connected ; as the only part which had been doubtful was 
ina bay formed by the north-eastern point of the river, and another about 
five miles to the westward of our present station, where (the land being rather 
low) there was an appearance of an opening; this day’s journey, however, 
proved the continuity of the coast. Our time being limited, I did not think 
it worth while going any further to the eastward; but as the dogs would 
require a day’s rest previously to carrying us over to Igloolik, I determined 
to remain here until the 29th for that purpose. 

‘‘ The weather was so thick that it was not until past ten on the 29th that 
we left the north land, and at seven arrived on the west end of Neerlo- 
naktoo, where we stopped for the night, our dogs being too much tired to 
proceed. We found the ice in coming over far better than I expected. It 
was however separated from both lands by wide cracks, and did not average 
more than two feet in thickness as far as I could judge ; it appeared nearly 
in the same state as last year at this season. 

“ Leaving Neerlo-naktoo at half-past eleven on the 30th, we reached 
Igloolik at two P.M. The ice between the two islands was almost impassa- 
ble fora sledge in some places, but the pools were all frozen over, for the first 
time, during the last night. We found great difficulty in landing on Igloolik, 
the ice having broken up into detached pieces along its shores. In getting 
the sledge across from one end to the other, we were frequently near losing 
it, the dogs having to swim across several of the spaces between the broken 
pieces of ice. Having crossed the isthmus, we got sight of the ships and 
arrived on board about four P.M.” 


The first of August had now arrived ; and yet, incredible as it may appear, 
the ships were as securely confined in the ice as in the middle of winter, ex- 
902 


29. 


30. 


August. 
Frid, 1. 


‘ 4 
ba 


ABSTRACT of the METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL kept on board His Majesty's Ship 
Fury, at Igloolik, during the Month of July, 1823, 


Prevailing 
Winds, 


Fahrenheit’s Ther- 


mometer, Barometer. 


—- 


Mini. 
mun, 


Prevailing Weather. 


Muani- | Mini- 
Mitte mum, 


Maxi 
Mean, mum, 


Mean, Direction, [Velocity 


—— 


| rrr ee 


39.03! 2050. 20 30 pe WNW Imodt, cloudy 
36,.67]/29.55 [29.30 ioe West tresh cloudy 
36,50)/29,49 |29.30 20,410 NW fresh rain 
37,016)/20.50 [29.40 leavin NW fresh cloudy 
37.67, 29,40 [29.36 jv0 375 NNW I{modt. cloudy, rain at times 
87 .67)/'20.34 [20.24 l20.300 North modt, cloudy, rain at times 
20.40 [29.20 (20,297 SE light cloudy and rain 
20.38 |20.06 Le es NNE modt. cloudy 
29,02 '28.90 ha: te NbW_ | modt. cloudy and rain 
20.38 be.08 20,220] S Easterly | light hazy and rain F 
20.77 120.57 120.085 SE fresh cloudy 
20.97 |20.78 (20,802 SE modt. cloudy 
20.98 |20.90 29,042 SE modt. cloudy 
29.06 |20.03 (20,947 SE light fine 
29.95 |20.87 (20,910) Calm calm fine 


20,84 120,80 120,823 North light fine 
49.75]120,82 |29,.80 120.808 Calm calm fine 
51,83) 20.76 [29,70 (20.727 SE light cloudy 
60 - 20.68 ae pee SE light fine 
me 20.04 ey 20,487 ESE modt, cloudy and rain 
10,08/20,52 20.96 120, 400 SE light foggy and rain 
ms 20,94 129,90 120.807) North light foggy and rain 
atte! 14a 20, 32 /20.56s NW light foggy and rain 
80,.02)/20.67 (20,42 [20.515 NE light foggy and rain 
i 20,50 (20.55 [20.578 SE light hazy and rain 
99 ,.67]20.53 |20.44 (20.480 NEP. rountoy € 1) light cloudy 

20,64 20.60 [20,012], Calm calm hazy 

20,69 (20.63 SSE modt, hazy and rain 

20,46 NW modt, cloudy 
20.55 SSE modt, cloudy 
SSE modt, hazy and rain 


10,04 120,08 /28,00 )20.635 


cept tf 
open 
hopele 
that | 
cientl 
weake 
swell 
fore, a 
for th 
them 
saved 
crack 
a mil 
from | 
and th 
crew: 
of se 
that a 
each s 
very ! 
them, 
tusks, 
swam] 
in sigh 
secure 
which 
On 
the pa 
were { 
very i 
was a 
tigue | 
the ic 


oe T! 
steady ¢ 
given it 


SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY. 469 


cept that a pool of water about twice their own length in diameter was now 
open around them*. I determined, therefore, notwithstanding the apparent 
hopelessness of sawing our way through four or five miles of ice, to begin 
that laborious process ; not indeed with the hope of cutting a canal sufli- 
ciently large to allow the passage of the ships to sea, but with a view to 
weaken it so much as, in some measure, to assist its disruption whenever any 
swell should set in upon its margin. On this and the following day, there- 
fore, all the gear was carried down for that purpose, and a large tent pitched 
for the ships’ companies to dine in, the distance being too great to allow 
them to return on board to their meals. On the 3d, however, we were 
saved a great deal of unnecessary labour, by the ice opening out at the 
crack before mentioned, so that our sawing might now be commenced within 
a mile of the Fury. After divine service, therefore, all hands were sent 
from both ships to bring back the tent and tools to the point of Oongalooyat, 
and the parties were recalled from the walrus-fishery, except a single boat's 
crew: these also returned on board a few days after, the whole number 
of sea-horses killed being eight, and one large seal. It is remarkable 
that all the walruses were males, of which a skeleton was made on board 
each ship as anatomical specimens. The Hecla’'s two boats had one day a 
very narrow escape in assaulting a herd of these animals; for several of 
them, being wounded, made so fierce an attack on the boats with their 
tusks, as to stave them in a number of places, by which one was immediately 
swamped and the other much damaged, The Fury’s boats being fortunately 
in sight prevented any further danger; two of the walruses were killed and 
secured, and the damaged boats lightened and towed to the shore, from 
which they had been several miles distant. 

On the 4th our sawing work was commenced, with the usual alacrity on 
the part of the officers and men, and three hundred and fifty yards of ice 
were got out before night, its thickness varying from one to four feet, but 
very irregular on account of the numerous pools and holes, An equal length 
was accomplished on the following day, though not without excessive fa- 
tigue and constant wet to the men, several of whom fell into the water by 
the ice breaking under them, 


* This circumstance afforded a very favourable opportunity of obtaining a complete set of 
steady observations on the deviation of the magnetic needle on board the Fury; these are 
given in the Appendix, 


1823. 
July. 
YS aad 


Sat, 2. 


Sun, & 


Mon, 4. 


ww 
— ~ 


aR ots ~ cn lndienive. 


” 
* span 


we 


Wed. 6, 


Thur. 7. 


470 


SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


On the 5th, the register-thermometer, which had been placed in the ground in 
the winter, was taken up, though, to our astonishment, the ground above and 
about it had become nearly as hard and compactly frozen as when we dug the 
hole to put it down. How this came about we were quite at a loss to determine ; 
for the earth had been thrown in quite loosely, whereas its present consoli- 
dated state implied its having been thoroughly thawed and frozen again. It 
occupied two men ten days to extricate it, which, as they approached the 
thermometer, was done by a chisel and mallet to avoid injury by jarring. 
This, however, was not sufficient to prevent mischief, the instrument being 
so identified with the frozen earth, as to render it impossible to strike the 
ground near it without communicating the shock to the tubes, two of which 
were in consequence found to be broken. Thus ended our experiment for 
ascertaining the temperature of the earth during the winter; an experiment 
which it would seem, from this attempt, scarcely practicable to make in any 
satisfactory manner without some apparatus constructed expressly for the 
purpose. 

On the 6th, the work was continued as before, and about four hundred yards 
of ice were sawn through and floated out, leaving now a broad canal, eleven 
hundred yards in length, leading from the open water towards that formed 
by the gravelled space. In the course of this day’s work, one of the seamen 
of the Hecla fell into the water by the ice giving way, and very narrowly 
escaped drowning, as it was not easy for the other people to approach him. 
He was taken out scarcely sensible ; but being immediately conveyed on 
board the Fury was by care and attention recovered in a few hours. 

When the lateness. of the season to which the ships had now been detained 
in the ice is considered, with reference to the probability of the Fury’s 
effecting any thing of importance during the short remainder of the present 
summer, it will not be wondered at that, coupling this consideration with that 
of the health of my officers and men, I began to entertain doubts whether it 
would still be prudent to adopt the intended measure of remaining out in the 
Fury as asingle ship; whether, in short, under existing circumstances, the 
probable evil did not far outweigh the possible good. In order to assist my 
own judgment on this occasion upon one of the most material points, I re- 
quested the medical officers of the Fury to furnish me with their opinions 
“as to the probable effect that a third winter passed in these regions would 
produce on the health of the officers, seamen, and marines of that ship, tak- 
ing into consideration every circumstance connected with our situation.” 


Mr. E 
is here 
greate 
this sv 


ce D 


Fury 


compl: 
was sl 
recent 
vourak 
use of 
confirr 
ey 
remain 
with a 
of our 
dering 
assume 
dwell 
as they 
to the 
vessels 
attend 


hopele 


feeling 
possib 
able re 

Enc 
also 
consid 
to the 
effect 
the pe 
breeze 
upon t 
shore, 
still re 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 471 


Mr. Edwards’s reply, with which in substance that of Mr. Skeoch coin cided, 
is here given, as being at once more concise as to expression, and of infinitely 
greater weight as to opinion, than any remarks I could myself have offered on 
this subject. 

“© During the last winter and subsequently, the aspect of the crew of the 
Fury in general, together with the increased number and character of their 
complaints, strongly indicated that the peculiarity of the climate and service 
was slowly effecting a serious decay of their constitutional powers. The 
recent appearance also of several cases of incipient scurvy in the most fa- 
vourable month of the year, and occurring after a more liberal and continued 
use of fresh animal food than we can calculate upon procuring hereafter, are 
confirmatory proofs of the progression of the evil. 

* With a tolerable prospect of eventual success, other circumstances 
remaining unchanged, I should yet expect an increase of general debility, 
with a corresponding degree of sickness, though at the same time confident 
of our resources being equal to obviate serious consequences. But consi- 
dering the matter in the other point of view, namely, as a single ship, it 
assumes a much more important shape. It is not necessary that I should 
dwell on the altered circumstances in which the crew would then be placed, 
as they are such as you must long ago have foreseen and weighed. I allude 
to the increase of labour and exposure resulting from the separation of the 
vessels, the privation of many salutary occupations, mental and corporeal, 
attending their union, and, I may add, at this late period of the season, the 
hopelessness of the success of the ensuing navigation being such as to excite 

‘feelings sufficiently lively to counteract those depressing causes. It is im- 
possible, in fact, to reflect on the subject and not to apprehend a less favour- 
able result than might be expected under the preceding conditions.” 

Enclosing to Captain Lyon the replies of the medical gentlemen, I now 
also requested his opinion whether, under existing circumstances, he still 
considered it expedient to adopt the measure originally intended, with respect 
to the separation of the two ships. 1 had scarcely despatched a letter to this 
effect when, at ten A.M. on the 8th, the ice about the Fury began to move, 
the pools breaking up, and the gravellod canal soon entirely closing. A 
breeze springing up from the northward at this time, all sail was made 
upon the ship, and the ice gradually driving out as it detached itself from the 
shore, the Fury got into open water about one P.M. The Hecla, however, 

still remained in the middle of her winter's floe, which, though it moved a 


1823. 


August, 


ww 


1823, 
August 


472 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


little with the rest at first, did not come out of the bay. In the course of the 


w~’ afternoon, finding her still stationary, I determined to occupy the time in 


stretching over to the northward, for the purpose of examining the state 
of the fixed ice at the eastern mouth of the strait; and arriving at its 
margin by ten P.M. found it attached to both shores from the north- 
eastern part of Neerlo-naktoo across to Murray Maxwell Inlet. It was the 
general opinion that this ice was in a more solid state than at the same 
time and place the preceding year, but its situation did not I believe differ 
half a mile from what it had then been. As the sun went down nearly in the 
direction of the Strait, we obtained from the mast-head a distinct and exten- 
sive view in that quarter, and it is impossible to conceive a more hopeless 
prospect than this now presented. One vast expanse of level solid ice occu- 
pied the whole extent of sea visible to the westward, and the eye wearied 
itself in vain to discover a single break upon its surface. 

Having finished this examination, which at once destroyed every hope 
I had never ceased to indulge of a passage through the Strait, we returned 
towards Igloolik to rejoin the Hecla. It was not, however, till the morn- 
ing of the 9th that we observed her to be moving out of the bay; when 
at length (for the first time perhaps that such an event ever occurred,) 
she drove to sea in the middle of the floe. Thus at the mercy of the ice, 
she was carried over the shoals off the south-east point off Igloolik in six and 
a half fathoms, but was then fortunately drifted into deeper water. The 
swell on the outside was all that was wanting to break up her icy prison, 
which separating at seven A.M. finally released her from confinement. 

Having soon afterwards received Captain Lyon’s answer to my communi- 
cation, it was necessary for me to come to a final determination on the sub- 
ject therein alluded to. I shall first however insert Captain Lyon’s reply, 
both because it is proper that his opinion should be recorded, and because it 
is impossible for me either more clearly or more briefly to communicate the 
substance of my own. 

‘“* As I consider the health of your crew as of most importance in every 
point of view, I shall in the first place state that, independently of the weighty 
opinions of your medical officers, it has for some time been my opinion that 
the Fury’s passing a third winter in this country would be extremely hazard- 
ous. Iam induced thus to express myself from the great change I have 
observed in the constitution of the officers and men of the Hecla, and by the 
appearance of some very severe cases of scurvy since the summer has com- 


men 
notic 
“ 
fresl 
clos¢ 
the ¢ 
past 
same 
pain 
in al 
“ 
that 
you | 
not 
expe 
expe 
that 
our | 


SEAS 
mate 
expe 
of Sc 
that 

west 
ever 
time 
provi 
atten 
othe 
Seas 
all e 
the 1 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 473 


menced; I am also aware that the same scorbutic symptoms have been 
noticed, and do still exist, in the Fury. 

* Our long continuance on one particular diet, almost total deprivation of 
fresh animal and vegetable food for above two years, and the necessary and 
close continement for several months of each severe winter, are undoubtedly 
the causes of the general alteration of constitution which has for some time 
past been so evident. I therefore conceive that a continued exposure to the 
same deprivations and confinements, the solitude of a single ship, and the 
painful monotony of a third winter to men whose health is precarious, would 
in all probability be attended with very serious consequences. 

** When at the commencement of the last winter I gave it as my opinion, 
that the service would be benefited by your remaining out in the Fury, as 
you proposed, and still attempting a further passage to the westward, I did 
not anticipate so long a coniinement in the ice as we have unfortunately 
experienced, and formed my opinion on the supposition, and in the full 
expectation that we should be at liberty about the lst of July of this year, and 
that the general good health which then prevailed would still continue. From 
our being detained until the present time, however, I am of opinion that the 
season in which it is possible to navigate has now so far passed, that nothing 
material can be effected either by one or both ships. We know from the 
experience of last year, that it is not before the end of August or the beginning 
of September that the ice breaks up in the Strait of the Fury and Hecla, and 
that it is not until that period that you will be enabled to re-examine its 
western entrance. Even when you should have done so and, as there is 
every reason to expect, found it still closed, you would have barely sufficient 
time to return to Igloolik to pass another winter. Again, should the sea 
prove open to the south-eastward, and should you deem it expedient to 
attempt, by rounding the very extensive land in that direction, to find some 
other passage to the westward, I conceive that the extreme lateness of the 
season would not admit of your making discoveries of any importance, or at 
all events of such importance as to warrant your passing a third winter, at 
the risk of the safety of your officers and crew. 

‘‘ Having now stated my reasons for changing my former opinion, I beg to 
advise that the Fury and Hecla return to England together as soon as such 
arrangements respecting the removal of stores and provisions as you may 
judge proper to make shall be completed.” 

Under such circumstances, to which may be added the uncertainty of 
3P 


1823. 


August. 


Aan A 


: { 
aa | “ 2% : qi = 
ca ii 3 
* 3 = : = SF see fae Hag Ea OT 
Smt ti a gi ra oes f. eaten Ay f 
Ee . ee m og ss - a: 7 « 
= : - 5 r ae a ge ee ee Se : t oe : ¥ 
" bs \. r- ee r ~ — + as a van bk ~~ - om 4 m7 r e ee 
¥ . ¥ x fie Reon 2 85 = PS: napa = Serer aiiaienapee 
. ‘ > as aoe if - oraee ~ + ~ a ns . “ ween oe e . M: 
: : —s t t is se : 2 
: 2 ‘ 4 : sca ~ et —— e 
" - - =e oad Z ean ar See eee seeabt c= ee en 
: - ne eamee se carve - pom i 3 one 


474 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


peak the Hecla’s liberation from the ice to the southward before the close j seve 
w~ of the season, I no longer considered it prudent or justifiable, upon the ; who 


slender chance of eventual success now before us, to risk the safety of the j TI 
officers and men committed to my charge, and whom it was now my first wish east 
to re-conduct in good health to their country and their friends. Having thie 
communicated my intentions to the officers and ships’ companies, I directed us Sd 
several additions to be made to their ordinary allowance of provisions, par- ) Islar 
ticularly in the various anti-scorbutics, which had hitherto been reserved for tinue 
cases of emergency ; and then beating up to our winter station which, by clear 
desire of Mr. Fisher, our Chaplain and Astronomer, I named Turton Bay, near 
we anchored there in the afternoon in ten fathoms, and immediately com- | ina 
menced our preparations for lightening the Fury. Seven months’ provisions, & mals 
a bower anchor, and a few other stores were received by the Hecla, some of q failed 
her water before filled as ballast being started to make room for them; and 4 wind 
such other arrangements made as circumstances would permit for improving leagu 
the stowage of the Fury’s hold. The bay was now entirely clear of ice in our ¢ 
every part; and so changed was its appearance in the course of the last four- canot 
and-twenty hours, that it was scarcely possible to believe it the same place ; of pi 
that we had been accustomed daily to look upon for the ten preceding whor 
months. as mi 
The conveyance and stowage of the stores had scarcely been completed, tents 
when some loose ice drifting into the bay with the tide, on the night of the north 
Sun. 10, 10th, obliged us hastily to get under way and stand out. On the following often 
Mon. 11. morning I ran across to the main-land in the Fury, for the purpose of erect- tioke 
ing, in compliance with my instructions, a flag-staff fifty-six feet in height, whic’ 
having at its top a ball made of iron hoops and canvass, ten feet in diameter, first 
and a cylinder buried near its foot, containing a parchment with some youn 
account of our visit to this place. In the mean time, I requested Captain supp! 
Lyon to stand over to the point of Igloolik where our walruses had been this | 
landed, and to bring off these as well as our boats and tents remaining Th 
there. The ice soon after coming in upon the point, it was not without risk ice, 1 
of the Hecla’s being dangerously beset, that Captain Lyon succeeded in the c 
bringing off every thing but one boat. This was indeed no great loss to sibili 
us, though a great acquisition to the Esquimaux, for being almost worn the n 
out, I had intended to break her up previously to leaving the ice. Besides mont 
this we purposely left our sledges, and a quantity of wood in pieces of a previ 
convenient size for bows, spears, and paddles, distributing them about in 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 475. 


several places, that one or two individuals might not make a prize of the 1823. 

August, 

whole. “ies hai 
The Hecla rejoining us on the morning of the 12th, we stood out to the Tues. 12. i: | 

eastward and finally took our departure from Igloolik. In the forenoon a 

thick fog came on, which, with a good deal of loose ice drifting about, gave 


us some trouble in clearing the land; after which we made the Calthorpe i 


Islands, the wind being southerly with thick rainy weather: This con- 1 
tinued till the following afternoon, when a change of wind soon brought a Wed. 13. * | 
clearer atmosphere, enabling us to bear up for the main-land, which we made 4 


near the three islands called Ooglit, and then ran along it to the southward 
in a perfectly open sea. We saw here a great many walruses, but no ani- AT 
mals of any other kind. In the course of the night the favourable breeze \ | 
failed us and, on the morning of the 14th, was succeeded by a southerly Thur. 14. if 
wind, the ships being close to another island called Ooglit about twelve 
leagues to the S.S.W. of the others. We were here immediately visited by pike 
our old acquaintance the Esquimaux, several of whom came off in their ah 
canoes in the course of the morning, as if determined to lose no opportunity ; 
of profiting by us. Among these was our worthy old friend Nannow, to 
whom every body was glad to give something ; and indeed they all received : 
as many presents as their canoes could safely carry or tow on shore. Their rie te rf 
tents, nine in number, were pitched on the main-land, a little to the Lise 
northward of Ooglitt, at a station they call Ag-wisse-o-wik, of which we had pt 
often heard them speak at Igloolik. They now also pointed out to us Ami- 
tioke, at the distance of four or five leagues to the southward and westward, 
which proved to be the same piece of low land that we had taken for it in . Bie 
first coming up this coast. The Esquimaux told us that a number of their 
younger men were inland in pursuit of deer, and that the rest had abundant 
supplies of walrus, which animals we saw in considerable numbers about : 
this place. ’ ve 
The failure of the wind was. not the only cause of our detention here ; the | 
ice, whose margin we had begun to perceive as we approached this part of 
the coast, now closing in completely with the land, so as to prevent the pos- 
sibility of our making any farther progress for the present. The closeness of 
the main body of ice to the land at this time, compared with its position a | 
month earlier the preceding year, was undoubtedly to be attributed to the an 2 
prevalence of southerly and easterly winds which we had lately experienced, ben 
8P 2 


SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


476 


Pir _ while those from the opposite quarter could alone drive it off the land. The 

wirw ice was here very heavy, being covered with large hummocks, reminding us 
of what we had to encounter in coming up this coast. It was also covered 
in almost every part with sand and small stones, making its general aspect of 
a brownish colour, only. a few patches of white ice appearing here and 
there. How these substances had been brought here in such abundance, 
another year’s experience of the phenomena of these seas had not taught us 
to explain ; and before we left this coast, we saw many hundred square miles 
of ice thus covered. In all the intervals between the hummocks were large 
pools of water, which had in many instances formed deep circular beds, 
twenty or thirty feet in diameter, in shape like the crater of a volcano. 
Most of the pools had found their way through to the sea below, and the 
smallest swell would have broken every floe-piece into numberless masses: 
indeed, as it was, there were few to be seen of more than three or four acres 
in extent. 

Being thus detained, I despatched Mr. Ross to Ooglit to observe the 
meridian altitude, which gave the latitude of its south point 68° 23’ 58", 
and he found the mineralogical character exactly the same as that of 
Igloolik. About the middle of the island, which is quite low, are two 
bone winter-huts, conspicuous at some distance to seaward. It was low 
water at half-past eleven A.M., making the time of high water here on full 
and change days a quarter past eleven. 

15to21. We were now for some days all but beset in this neighbourhood, calms 
or light southerly and easterly breezes constantly prevailing. During this 
time the main body of ice remained, in most parts, close to the shore ; 
leaving us only a “hole” of water to work about in, and much nearer to 
the land than on this shoal and shelving coast was altogether safe for 
the ships. Notwithstanding this, however, we had soon occasion to ob. 
serve that they not only kept their ground, but even drew to the southward, 
owing no doubt to the current before found to set in that direction along 
the coast. 

Frid, 22, On the morning of the 22d, being off Amitioke, the ice became more 
slack along the shore, and a breeze from the northward enabled us to make 
some progress. I may here take occasion to remark that, in the course of 
this summer, we experienced not only an unusual proportion of southerly and 

easterly winds, but observed also, that these were more frequently attended 


with 
grea 
quar 
a thi 
at th 
Fury 
the vy 
the p 
of m 
entir 
Co 
67° 4 
lowin 
one n 
of wi 
cular 
that | 
of th 
land ; 
rathe 
of th 
the o1 
here, 
neare 
Scare 
were 
Th 
to dri 
week 
open 
a con 
sail be 
A fev 
the e 
fast, 
quartg 
ships 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 477 


with clear weather than is generally ihe case; while on the other hand a_ 1823. 
great deal of close thick weather occurred with breezes from the northern oe 
quarter. The present northerly wind had scarcely sprung up an hour before 

a thick fog came on, frequently obscuring the land frum us as we ran along, 

at the distance of half a mile to a mile and a half. Thus circumstanced, the 

Fury was once in the course of the day placed in a very awkward situation, 

the water quickly shoaling to six fathoms, and the ice preventing for a time 

the possibility of hauling out. Having at length gained an offing of a couple 

of miles, we were obliged to make the ships fast to a floe-piece, the ice 
entirely closing around us. 

Continuing to drift to the southward, we observed on the 23d, in latitude Sat. 23. 
67° 40 18" Cape Brown bearing S.E.b.S., five or six miles distant. On the fol- 
lowing day at noon we had passed Cape Penrhyn, our drift having been twenty- Sun, 24. 
one miles in twenty-four hours, though closely beset, and without a single pool 
of water in sight the whole time. The current was observed to be parti- 
cularly strong when immediately off Cape Penrhyn, taking the ships round 
that headland at the rate of two or three knots for one hour. In the night 
of the 24th, we drifted out to the distance of nine or ten miles from the 
land; and on the 25th at noon had reached the latitude of 67° 17’ 28,” being Mon. 25. 
rather to the southward of the Barrow River. It was probably the influence 
of this stream that caused the ships thus to set off from the land, this being 
the only instance in which they did so. ‘The ice was also rather more slack 
here, of which circumstance we took advantage to warp the ships a mile 
nearer in shore; it was, however, still of the same heavy kind as before. 
Scarcely a single bird had been seen since leaving Igloolik, and the walruses 
were extremely rare on this coast, to the southward of Amitioke. 

The ice remained close the whole of the 26th; but we continued as usual Tues. 26. 
to drift generally to the southward, and the next morning being off Owlittee- Wed. 27. 
week, were enabled to cast off and make sail, the ice being rather more 
open than before. Being favoured by a commanding northerly breeze we ran 
a considerable distance to the southward, having however only just room to 
sail between the points of the closely packed ice and a flat dangerous shore. 

A few small low islands were here discovered and added to the chart. In 
the evening we were once more arrested in our progress and obliged to make 
fast, being two or three miles short of Point Elizabeth, and within three 
quarters of a mile of the shore. On the making of the flood-tide at night, the 
ships were hurried past the point in seven fathoms, and not having been able 


Sun. 31. 


478 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


to make fast to the same floe-piece were now separated a mile or two and soon 
again beset. Without escaping for a moment from our confined situation, 
and almost without perceiving any motion of the masses of ice among them- 
selves, we had at noon on the 30th drifted down within a mile of a small 
island, lying near the north-east point of Winter Island, and which I now 
named after Mr. Crawrorp. On the 31st the tide took us through between 
these, the breadth of the passage being three-quarters of a mile, in no less 
than sixteen fathoms water. We then passed within a dangerous reef of 
rocks lying a full mile from the shore, and having numerous heavy masses of 
grounded ice upon it. After clearing this in a good depth of water we were, 
by the evening, carried along shore within a mile of Cape Fisher. Being 
desirous of seeing whether the Esquimaux had meddled with the tombs of onr 
departed shipmates, I despatched a party on shore over the loose ice, and 
was glad to find on their return, which was not accomplished without diffi- 
culty, that both were in good order. Among the specimens of plants which 
Mr. Ross brought on board were some radishes, onions, and mustard and 
cress, found at our gardens. The onions had a very pungent smell and 
taste, and the whole were in that healthy state which, however dwarfish 
their growth, would have rendered them very acceptable if more abundant. 
The Esquimaux hac certainly visited the island since our departure, as several 
tin canisters, left for them on a particular spot, had been removed. 

Thus had we, in a most singular manner, once more arrived at our old 
winter-quarters, with scarcely a single successful exertion ‘on our parts 
towards effecting that object. The distance from Ooglit to our present 
station was about one hundred and sixty miles along the coast. Of this we 
had never sailed above forty, the rest of the distance having been accom- 
plished while we were immoveably beset by mere drifting. The interval 
thus employed having been barely eight days, gives an average drift to the 
southward of above fifteen miles per day. 

The phenomena of the tides had now been precisely similar to those before 
observed on this coast, and may be stated in few words, The flood-tide 
comes from the northward, but is aided also by a current from the same 
quarter, rendering its stream both stronger and of longer duration than that 
of the ebb. The latter is indeed scarcely perceptible with a northerly 
breeze, and even with the wind from the southward does not usually aflect 
a.ship’s drift for more than three hours each tide. This being the case, 
Ido not know how a ship could effect a passage along this coast to the 


north 
havin 
have 
forme 
to the 
could 
At 
four | 
sounc 
dark. 
but | 
soon 
rounc 
in wh 
now § 
the 41 
side, 
ing u 
the e 
cours 
Cape 
ice al 
at nig 
now 
prem 


Was q 


unus 
imme 
hoar 

In 
teleg 
just 
reaso 
nuec 
in j 
was 


supp 
a dis 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 479 


northward, after the land-ice has once been detached from the shores ; for cat 
1 St. 


having nothing by which to hold on, whenever the ice closes, she can only ww 
have the alternative of running into it or of being driven on shore. In the 
former case she would in all probability, as we have seen, be drifted back 

to the southward at the rate of about fifteen miles per day, and in the latter 

could scarcely contrive to escape without serious damage. 

At daylight on the Ist of September we found ourselves within three or are ee 
four hundred yards of the rocks on the eastern side of Winter Island, the 
soundings having gradually decreased to eleven fathoms. Had it remained 
dark an hour longer the Fury would in all probability have gone on shore ; 
but happily the ice was slack enough to allow us to warp clear of danger 
soon after day-break. The Hecla had in the mean time been drifted 
round Cape Fisher, and several miles to the westward towards Lyon Inlet, 
in which direction the Fury was also carried in the afternoon. The wind Wed. 3. 
now setting in casterly, both ships drove with the ice up the inlet, and on 
the 4th were abreast of Safety Cove, though fortunately on the western Thur.4. 
side, clear of the dangers of the Bay of Shoals. A light breeze then spring- 
ing up from the north-west, we again began to move down the inlet; and on 
the even:ig of the 6th, after making a little progress with the sails in the Sat. 6. 
course of the last two days, were once more met by an easterly breeze off 
Cape Edwards, the ice being still as closely packed as possible. The young 
ice also began at times to annoy us, by forming to a considerable thickness 
at night, so as to cement the larger masses strongly together. The weather 
now became chi!ly immediately after sunset, and we considered it rather a 
premature decrease of temperature in this latitude, when the thermometer 
was observed to fall to 24° on the morning of the 3lst of August. A very 
unusual deposition of dew took place every evening about this season, 
immediately after the sun had set, and was in an hour or two converted into 
hoar frost. 

In the afternoon of the 6th I was much pained at being informed by 
telegraph from the Hecla, that Mr. Fife, Greenland Master of that ship, had 
just expired, an event which for some days past there had been but too much 
reason to apprehend ; the scurvy having within the last three weeks conti- 
nued to increase considerably upon him. It is proper for me, however, both 
in justice to the medical Officers under whose skilful and humane care he 
was placed, and to the means with which we were in this way so liberally 
supplied, to state that during a part of that time Mr. Fife had taken so great 
a dislike to the various anti-scorbutics which were administered to him, that 


A 


ABSTRACT of the METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL kept on board His Majesty’s Ship 


At or 
near the 
Island 
of 
Igloolik. 


Se aosasaenrt fF, wo wD 


-— 
c—] 


On the passage down the eastern coast of Melville peninsula, from 
Igloolik to Winter Island. i : 


Barometer. 


Maxi- | Mini- 
mum. mum, 


inches | inches 


20.95 | 29.70 
80.03 | 29.90 
29.97 
29.93 
29.91 
29.93 
29.90 
29.68 
29.62 


Mean, 


inches 


29.742 
29.905 


29.942]| 
29.900 


29.890 
29.908) 
29.810 


.56 |20 628 
29.560] 


29.615 
29.747 


5 {29.577 


29.568 
29.800) 
29.800 
29.810 
29.815 
29.713 


4 129,497 


29.610) 
29.693) 
29.580 
29. 122) 
29.393 
29.658 
29, 807 
29.695 


Fury, during the Month of August, 1823. 


Prevailing 
Winds. 


Direction. 


SE 
SE 
East 


NNW 


am.NNW : 
p.m. SSE, 


S. Westerly 
NNE 
NNE 
WNW 
NW 


f a.m. NW 
|p.m. SE § 


SE 


a.m. Southerly 1 
pom. NNW § 


SSE 
SSE 
Westerly 
SSE 
NEasterly 


a.m. NE 
p.m. SE g 


Southerly 

Easterly 

Northerly 
NNW 


Southerly 
East 
S Easterly 
NNE 


29.64 |29.788]} NNW 


30.02 |30.100]} Northerly 
30.26 |30.272 NWesterly 
80.27 |30.280 SW 


30.29 | 20.03 |29.754 


Velocity. 


modt. 
light 
light 
light 
light 
light 
light 
modt. 
fresh 
modt. 
light 
modt. 
modt. 
modt. 
modt. 
light 
modt. 
light 
moat, 
light 
light 
light 


a.m, light 
pm, modt- 


modt. 
light 

light 
modt. 

modt. 
light 

light 

light 


| 


5 


Prevailing 


‘ Weather. 


Sy © 


hazy, rain 
cloudy 
fine 
fine 
fine 
fine 
clear 
cloudy 
cloudy 
fine 
fine 
hazy with rain 
hazy with rain 
fine 
» hazy withrain 
foggy 
cloudy 
cloudy 
hazy with sleet & rain 
cloudy 
cloudy 


hazy with rain 


heavy rain 
cloudy 


cloudy 
cloudy 
cloudy 
cloudy 
cloudy 
fine 
fine 
fine 


he c 
quer 
him 
and 
tain 
with 
this 
I ma 
loss 
gato 
orna 
Mas 
the - 
the | 
In 
othe 
moti 
now 
the - 
ters 
the 
the 
the 
half 
ing 
muc 
Win 
neal 
exp 
last 


SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY. 481 


he could seldom be induced to use any of them. The disease, in conse- 
quence, reduced him to a state of extreme debility, which at length carried 
him off almost without pain. The Hecla being at the time closely beset, 
and in a situation of great danger among the shoals off Winter Island, Cap- 
tain Lyon caused the remains of the deceased to be committed to the sea 
with all the solemnity which circumstances would permit. 1 cannot close 
this melancholy notice without expressing my most sincere regret, to which 
I may venture to add that of Captain Lyon and the other officers, for the 
loss of this very deserving individual, whose qualitics as a seaman and navi- 
gator, had it pleased God to spare his life, would have rendered him an 
ornament to the naval service, into which he was to have been admitted as a 


Master on the return-of the ships to England. Mr. Crawford, the. mate of 


the Fury, was appointed, for the present, to act as Master of the Hecla in 
the room of Mr. Fife. ' 

In the night of the 6th, the ships, which had before nearly closed each 
other,;were again separated to the distance of several miles, though no 
motion was perceptible in the masses of ice about them. The Hecla was 
now carried towards Winter Island, and the Fury up Lyon Inlet, so that on 


the 10th we had reached the islands off Five-hawser Bay within three-quar- Wed. 


ters of a mile, where the Hecla was barely visible from the mast-head. On 


the evening of the 11th, hawever, thé wind at length began to freshen from Thur. 11. 


the north-west, when the ice almost immediately. commenced driving down 
the inlet at the rate of a mile an hour, carrying the Fury with it and within 
half a mile of the rocks, the whole way down to Cape Martineau, but keep- 
ing her in deep water. In‘the mean time the Hecla had been swept into 
much more dangerous situations, passing: along the east and south sides of 
Winter Island; and after driving nearly up to Five-hawser Bay, being carried 
near some dangerous shoals about Cape Edwarils, where Captain Lyon 
expected every othér tide that she would take the ground. Indeed for the 
last ten or twelve days the situation of the Hecla had been one of imminent 
danger, and every exertion to remove her from it had proved unavailing. 
From this time, however, the ice continued to drive to the southward and, 
by some means or other, the ships once more closed each other. , It was 
now observable, as on a former occasion in this neighbourhood, that the ice 
did not carry the ships in the direction opposite to the wind, but much more 


towards Southampton Island ; so that on the 14th we were once more off Sun. 14, 


Fife Rock, and had, by great exertions in warping, nearly rejoined the 
3 Q 


1823, 
Sept. 
we 


Mon. 15. 


Tues. 16. 


Wed. 17. 


482 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


Hecla. We now also observed a dark water-sky to the eastward, which 
assured us that a clear sea could be at no great distance in that direction. 
On the following day, when the ships had closed each other within a mile, 
we could see the clear water from ihe mast-head, and the Hecla could now 
have been easily extricated. Such however are the sudden changes that 
take place in this precarious navigation, that not long afterwards the Fury 
was quite at liberty to sail out of the ice, while the Hecla was now, in her turn, 
so immoveably set fast, and even cemented between several very heavy 
masses, that no power that could be applied was sufficient to move her an inch. 
In this situation she remained all the 16th, without our being able to afford 
her any assistance ; and the frost being now rather severe at night, we began 
to consider it not improbable that we might yet be detained for another 
winter. We were perhaps indeed indebted for our escape to a strong 
westerly breeze which blew for several hours on the 17th, when, the ice 
being sufficiently close to allow our men to walk to the assistance of the 
Hecla, we succeeded, after seven hours’ hard labour, in forcing her into 
clear water, when all sail was made to the eastward, and our course shaped 
for the Trinity Islands in a perfectly open sea. 

We thus finally made our escape from the ice after having been almost 
immoveably besct in it for twenty-four days out of the last twenty-six, in the 
course of which time the ships had been taken over no less than one hun- 
dred and forty leagues of ground, generally very close to the shore, and 
always unable to do any thing towards effecting their escape from danger. 
When it is considered that, to have taken the ground in this situation, with 
strong and high tides keeping the ice in constant motion, must have almost 
involved the certain loss of the ships, and without the possibility of one 
offering assistance to the other, we cannot but consider this as one of the 
most providential escapes it has ever been our lot to experience. 

I cannot help here remarking how closely the band of packed ice, from 
which we had now just escaped, appears to keep to the shores both of the 
continent and of Southampton Island, unless driven off the land by strong 
north-westerly breezes. After now leaving this body of it we saw no more 
on our return to the eastward, which circumstance agrees with the accounts 
of Baffin in 1615, and of Fox in 1631; the former having stretched over 
from Southampton Island to the Trinity Islands without obstruction, and the 
latter appearing not to have scen any ice the whole way up to his farthest 
north. Ihave no doubt that the same clear sea would be found to extend 


some 
band 
the n¢ 
sional 
the a 

Du 
taken 
in the 


Th 
near 
Islan 
with 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 483 


some distance to the northward of where Fox turned back, and that the — 
band of ice from which we had now extricated our ships continues down to aw 
the neighbourhood of Carey’s Swan’s Nest, producing the obstruction occa- 
sionally met with by the Hudson’s Bay ships on their return homewards in 
the autumn. 

During the time we were beset in and near Lyon Inlet, advantage was 
taken of the deep water to try its temperature at different depths, as shewn 
in the following Table : 


Whole Water | Temperature of 


Days, 1823. depth of | brought up 


Water, | froma depth | Water brought Surface 
of | up. Water. 


fathoms, |  Fathoms, 


September 3d, . . 190 180 
” 9 176 150 
4th, 207 200 
175 170 

184 140 

108 100 

175 160 

11.30 AM. 126 125 

4 P.M. 139 130 

150 135 

124 115 

Noon, 105 100 

2 P.M. 129 124 

5 45 120 115 

7 55 110 105 

7AM. 125 120 

10 113 108 

3.30 P.M. 119 110 

@ , 106 106 

11,80 A.M. 132 120 

7PM. 125 100 

11 A.M. 145 140 

7,30 ,, les 120 


The wind still favouring us after our leaving the ice, we made the land 
near the Trinity Islands on the evening of the 18th, and passed Salisbury 
Island the following day. Meeting with no obstruction whatever we ran 
with a favourable breeze down Hudson’s Strait, and at noon on the 23d had Tues. 23, 


8Q2 


October. 
Thur, 2. 


Tues. 7, 


484 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY. 


passed Button’s Isles, from which we took our final departure. Icebergs of 
large dimensions occurred from about the seventy-third degree of longitude 
downwards to the entrance of the Strait, and we remarked that below the 
sixty-third degree of latitude the land was still comparatively clear of snow. 

From the time of our quitting the ice we began occasionally to notice 
flocks of dovekies, and soon afterwards kittiwakes and mallemucks with 
their young became numcrous, especially after leaving Hudson’s Strait. In 
passing Cape Farewell we saw only one or two shearwaters, probably in 
consequence of our being too far to the southward of that head-land. A 
very gradual increase took place in the temperature of the sca-water as well 
as in that of the atmosphere as we advanced to the eastward, which changes 
will best be shown by reference to the Meteorological Abstract for the month 
of September. The Aurora Borealis was visible more o1 less almost every 
night during our passage across the Atlantic; it occurred gexerally in large 
detached and irregular patches of yellowish light indifferently in all parts 
of the heavens, and frequently afforded as much light as the moon in her 
quarters. In a single instance, when the light happened to be confined to 
one portion of the heavens, it was so vivid es to make the shadows of objects 
distinctly visible on the deck. On tlie same night, the phenomenon assumed 
the form of a brilliant arch extending across the heavens through the zenith 
from true cast to west. It often happened also in cloudy weather, that the 
Aurora produced the same kind of general light at night as the moon does 
under similar circumstances ; the compasses were never perceptibly affected 
by this phenomenon. 

On the 24th of September, in lat. 60° 30’ and long. 61° 30’, we picked 
up a piece of yellow pine-tree, ten feet long from the root and a foot in 
diameter ; it was quite sound, not at all water-logged, and had no appear- 
ance of being worm-eaten. On the 30th, in lat, 57° 35’, long. 39° 30', we 
passed another tree of considerably larger size ; and on the 2d of October, 
in lat. 58° 10’, long. 30° 05’, observed a spar from twenty to thirty feet 
in length. 

We were now generally fayoured by strong westerly winds, and nothing 
worthy of notice occurred till the 7th, when being in lat. 59° 26’, and long. 
10° 55’, a Six’s thermometer was sent down to a depth of three hundred 
and fifty fathoms, and indicated a temperature of 50}°, that of the surface 
being the same, and of the air 53°. A solan goose was seen on this and 
the preceding day, and these birds became more numerous as we ap- 


In or near Lvycn Inlet. 


Of South 


Sailing down Hudson’s 


Om the Passage Fast- 


ABSTRACT of the METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL kept on board His Majesty’s Ship 
Fury, during the Month of September, 1823, 


ay 


Co @® y ao 7 ee OC 1 = | 


—_ 
—) 


ED RES ELT TE 


_~ 
—_ 


il 
a mjerature of Air 


Place. 


In or near Lycn Inlet. 


Of South 
Isla: 


Strait. 


iling down Hudson’s 


the Passage East- 
ward between But- 
ton’s Isles and the 
Meridian of Cape 
Farewell. 


OW the entrance 
to Davie’ Strait, 


in Shade. | 
Maxi- | Mini- ty 
mum, | mum. Mean. 


ES asl 
Le | 


at 
+57 +28 453.25 [428.02 


37 | 31 | 34,00 
40 | 31 | 34.42 
wo | sa | 30.42 
37 | 28 | 33.92 
33 | 26 | 31 a) 
36 | 293 | 20.7 

or | oo | sss! 
wo | w {sear 
30 | 34 | 35 pe 
36 | 30 | 34.17 
34.5] 97 | 30.71 
az | 20 | 92.17 
32 | 27 | 29.83 
32 | 23 | 28.04 
93 | 24 | 27.92 
30 | 24 | 26.40 
34.5] 26 | 28.88 
20 | 26 | 27.38 
30 | 28 | 29.29 


84 26 | 28.67 
35 26 | 20.83 
40.5} $2 | 87.46 
41 80 | 41,38) 
61 4l aa 
4 40 | 41,02) 
61 40 | 43,12 
43 $9 4 41.75 
49 10 iy 

| 


p- 


of Sea-water. 


Mean Tem 


29,88 
29.95 
30.40 


30.62 
80.14 
209.85 
20. om 
30.04 
30.00) 
20.79 
29.04 
29.00 
28,21 
28.12) 
27 .88) 
80.15 
32,17 
$2.83 
33.65 
$3.29 
$2.21 
$2.00) 
38.00 
41,50 
42.58 
42,58 
43,37) 
43.17 
44,33 


Barometer. | 


Moxi- 
mum. 


| inches 


$0.22 
30,00) 
29.8! 
29.91 
29.99 
20.10 
30.11 
30.07 
20.72 
29.38 
20.40 
29.80 
29.80 
20.79 
29.90 
29.07 
29.97 
29.83 
20.83 
29.90 
20.88 
20,87 
80.02 
20.00 
20.88 
29.00 
20.80 
30.00 
20.04 
20.90 


Mini- 
mum. | Mean. 


inches | inches 


30.04}80, 123) 
20.83)20.920 
29,79129.807! 
29,83)29.862! 
29,91120.960 
29,98/30.043 
20.0}. 109 
29,84130.000 
29, 49120627 
2910120233 


ei 


29,8220, pt 
20, sie aa 
20. ‘ie ont 
20.87 20,043. 


| 
nae &30 


Prevailing 
Winds, 
Direction. Velocity. 
E light 
Easterly light 
NE modt, 
Northerly light 
N. Westerly| light 
NW light 
S. Easterly | light 
EbS light 
FSE light 
ENE modt. 
North fresh 
WNW fresh 
{pmeiintery| light 
Westerly light 
WNW modt, 
West moadt 
NW modt, 
West light 
NNE modt, 
NNE light 
NNE light 
NNW mot. 
SSW modt, 
SW fresh 
SSW modt, 
WNW light 
Southerly fresh 
Westerly modt, 
Northerly | modt. 
WNW fresh 


Prevailing Weather. 


cloudy 
cloudy 
hazy 
small rain 
clear 
fine 
fine 
cloudy 
fog and rain. 
cloudy 
cloudy 
cloudy 
cloudy —snow 
cloudy 
cloudy 
cloudy 
cloudy 
cloudy—small snow 
cloudy 
cloudy 
cloudy 
fine 
clear 
cloudy 
cloudy 
fine 
hazy 
fine 
fine 


4 
! 
¥ 
4 
i) 
i 
i 


1823. 
October. 
Py 


Frid. 10. 


Sun, 12, 


486 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


proached the Orkneys, which we made on the morning of the 9th, the wind 
being moderate from the southward. It can scarcely perhaps be imagined 
by those who have not been similarly situated, with what eager interest one 
or two vessels were this day descried by us, being the first trace of civi- 
lized man that we had seen for the space of seven and twenty months. The 
breeze increasing to a fresh gale from the southward in the course of the 
night, with a heavy sea from the same quarter, rendering it impossible for 
us to make any progress in that direction, I determined to put into Lerwick 
in the Shetland Islands, to procure refreshments and await a change of 
wind in our favour. We accordingly bore up for that harbour early on the 
morning of the 10th, and at thirty minutes past ten A.M. anchored there, 
where we were immediately visited by a great number of the inhabitants, 
anxious to greet us on our return to our native country. 

I feel it utterly impossible adequately to express the kindness and atten- 
tion we received for the three or four days that we were detained in 
Bressay Sound by a continuance of unfavourable winds. On the first infor- 
mation of our arrival the bells of Lerwick were set ringing, the inhabitants 
flocked from every part of the country to express their joy at our uncx- 
pected return, and the town was at night illuminated as if each individual 
had a brother or a son among us. On the 12th, being Sunday, the officers 
and men of both ships attended divine service on shore, when the worthy 
minister, the Reverend Mr. Menzies*, who was before well known to 
many among us, offered up in the most solemn and impressive manner a 
thanksgiving for our safe return; at the same time calling upon us, with 
great earnestness, never to forget what we owed to Him who had been 
‘* about our path, and about our bed, and who spicth out all our ways.” 
The peculiarity of the circumstances under which we had joined the con- 
gregation, the warmth of feeling exhibited by every person assembled 
within the sacred walls, together with the affectionate energy of the 
preacher, combined to produce an effect of which words can convey but 
little idea, but which will not easily be effaced from the minds of those who 
were present on this affecting occasion. 


On the 13th, a breeze springing up from the northward, we tonk leave of 


our kind and hospitable friends, deeply sensible of the cordial and affec- 


* This faithful minister and most estimable member of society has since gone to receive the 
reward of his labours ; but he will long live in our grateful remembrance. 


tiona 
were 
have 
ventu 
ing 0 
conti 
went 
recei 
of W 
don 3 
after 
after 


Ha 
vera 
its pi 
that i 
cover 
Cook 
variol 
factor 
Penit 
that t 
paral! 

Wi 
stren, 
well 
accor 
derat 
north 
jectu 
distir 
singl 
dinar 
the n 
sougl 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 487 


tionate reception we had experienced ; and being still favoured by the wind _ 1823. 
were abreast of Buchaness the following evening. It was my intention to eae 
have put into Leith, in order to procure anchors and pilots previously to 
venturing upon the English coast, but the wind breaking us off on the morn- 

ing of the 15th, prevented our approaching that part of the coast, and we Wed. 15. 
continued our course to the southward. On the 16th, being off Whitby, I Thur. 16. 
went on shore there, accompanied by Mr. Fisher the astronomer, and after 
receiving the cordial greetings of a great number of the worthy inhabitants 

of Whitby, who had assembled to mect us on landing, set off for Lon- 

don end arrived at the Admiralty on the morning of the 18th. The ships, 

after touching at the Humber for pilots, arrived in the River Thames shortly 
afterwards, and were paid off at Deptford on the 14th of November. 


Having thus concluded the Narrative of this our second attempt to disco- 
ver a North-West Passage, it may be proper for me to offer a few remarks on 
its probable existence and practicability. That such a passage exists, and 
that its outlet on the western side will be found at Bhering’s Strait, the dis- 
coveries of the last six years, combined with the previous researches of 
Cook and Hearne and Mackenzie, have scarcely left a doubt; indeed, the 
various points at which the northern coast of America has now been satis- 
factorily laid down, from Icy Cape on the west to the shores of Melville 
Peninsula on the east, afford a strong presumption in favour of the opinion 
that this Continent does not in any part extend far beyond the 70th or 71st 
parallel of latitude. 

While the probability of the existence of the Passage has been greatly 
strengthened by the efforts of our various Expeditions by land and sea, as 
well as by those of the Russians about Icy Cape, the hope of its ultimate 
accomplishment has, notwithstanding our late failure, received no inconsi- 
derable encouragement. That the sea is sometimes navigable upon the 
northern shores of America is no longer a matter of speculation or con- 
jecture, but stands recorded upon the authority, and to the honour, of our 
distinguished countryman Captain Franklin and his brave companions. A 
single view of the drawings accompanying his description of their extraor- 
dinary canoe-navigation along these desolate shores, must at once convey to 
the minds of those who are interested in the accomplishment of this long- 
sought object, a degree of encouragement which the most sanguine could 


483 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


scarcely have experienced before. And although there can be no doubt, 
that the various changes of wind and tide would occasionally block up with 
ice the shores surveyed by Captain Franklin, yet the open water he observed 
is a proof that the ice has a considerable space to move about in; and I 
cannot, therefore, but entertain a very confident hope that if a ship could 
once be got upon that coast, she might, by patience and perseverance, ulti- 
mately complete the desired object. 

The report of the Russian ships that lately visited Icy Cape is, also, as 
respects the state of the ice, as favourable as the most sanguine mind could 
wish ; for their description is precisely that of a kind of navigation through 
which our ships have already held their course, uninjured, for hundreds of 
leagues, and through which, therefore, they may, under Providence, be 
again conducted by similar exertions. When, indeed, a body of ice has 
been once detached from the land, and has acquired some room to recede 
from it, which appears to be the case in the summer about Icy Cape, it is 
seldom that a ship need despair of making progress, unless the season be too 
far advanced to allow her to take advantage of the occasional openings. 

Reports so favourable as these of the state of the ice during the summer 
upon the central and western parts of the north coast of America, certainly 
combine to offer a new view of the enterprise in which we have late been 
engaged. From these and from the late failure of the Fury and Hecla in 
endeavouring to force their way into the Polar Sea, it would appear that the 
principal difficulty lies on this eastern or Atlantic side; and it becomes, 
therefore, a matter of more interest than ever to inquire by what route a ship 
is most likely to reach that part of the coast lately discovered and surveyed 
by Captain Franklin. 

The opinion I have before given as to the advantages of continuous land in 
the navigation of the Polar Seas, has been considerably strengthened by our 
subsequent experience for the last three seasons ; and I am more than ever 
impressed with the belief that the only way in which a ship can, with toler- 
able certainty, succeed in penetrating any considerable distance is by watch- 
ing the openings occasionally produced by winds and tides between a body 
of ice, when detached and moveable, and some land continuous in the de- 
sired direction. I have here adverted to this only for the purpose of further 
remarking that, however unsuccessful have been our late endeavours, they 
were unquestionably directed to the right place, and that, with the limited 
geographical information we then possessed, no other route than that pointed 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 489 


out in my Instructions, could possibly have been pursued with any reasonable 
hope of success. 

Circumstances, however, beyond the reach of any previous speculation, 
have combined to oppose an insurmountable barrier to our entrance into the 
Polar Sea by the route lately pursued, and consequently preventing us from 
reaching the northern shore of the continent of America, along which it 
would have been our object to proceed. The state of the ice for two suc- 
cessive summers in the Strait of the Fury and Hecla seems to indicate, 
that the obstruction we there met with is dependent rather on locality than 
on season ; for the phenomenon of two consecutive winters of e) caordinary 
severity is one of extremely rare occurrence. It is more than probable, that 

_the obstacles which finally arrested our progress in the Strait are to be 
mainly attributed to the current we found setting to the eastward through it; 
and which coincides with that observed by Captain Franklin and by the 
Russians to the westward. This stream, in finding its way out through the 
Strait, would undoubtedly have the effect of keeping the ice close home upon 
its western mouth, so as to prevent the egress of a ship in that direction ; 
and I cannot help thinking that, on this account, the navigation of that Strait 
will seldom if ever be practicable. 

Being thus unavoidably shut out from the northern shores of the continent, 
it remains to inquire by what other opening there may be the best chance of 
approaching it the nearest; for the principle of coasting it, whenever it can 
be reached, must still in my opinion be carefully kept in view. There is 
no known opening which seems to present itself so favourably for this pur- 
pose as Prince Regent’s Inlet. This leads me to observe that, had we even 
succeeded in fairly entering the Polar Sea by the Strait of the Fury and 
Hecla, the geographical information obtained from the Esquimaux, and on 
which I conceive the greatest reliance may be placed, would probably have 
induced me so far to depart from the strict tenor of my instructions, as 
to attempt a passage across the mouth of the great bay lying on the south- 
western side of Melville Peninsula, instead of coasting its winding and pro- 
bably much-indented shores. Indeed I consider that the spirit of my In- 
structions was fulfilled, as far as they regarded my close examination of the 
coast of America, from the moment that I had discovered the Strait which 
terminated that coast to the northward ; and that had I been fortunate enough 
to succeed iin entering the Polar Sea, that my business then was to get to the 
westward in the shortest way I was able. It being therefore no longer necessary 

3R 


SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


‘490 


‘to follow the continent on the western side of Melville Peninsula, it appears to 
be of very little importance whether a future attempt be made from Cape Kater, 
which lies near the bottom of Prince: Regent’s Inlet, or from.Cape Englefield 
‘at the western entrance of the Strait of the Fury and Hecla.. Indeed the 
chance of success is rather in favour of the former-of these two stations, 
both on account of the shorter distance: to Point Turnagain of | Captain 
Franklin, which from thence does not exceed four hundred-and fifty miles, 
as well as from the probability to which I have before .alluded, of the 
‘ice being almost constantly: pressed by the westerly current against the 
western mouth of the Strait. The view which we obtained.from the southern 
part of Prince Regent’s Inlet in 1819 was not, indeed, very encouraging as 
to the state of the ice at that particular time ; but our business.at that time 
‘lying in a different direction, we remained only a few hours.on the spot, 
‘and could not therefore judge what favourable changes. might have been 
produced by the various alterations in wind and tide. The ice was, however, 
certainly detached from the-shores, and in motion; in which ‘case a hope 
may always be cherished of occasional openings in our favour.. 
In estimating the probability of success in this attempt, it is proper for 
me here to remark that the difficulty of giving any very decided opinion 
upon it arises, not simply from the general uncertainty attending a naviga- 
tion of so precarious a nature as that to which we have lately: been accus- 
tomed, as because there is nothing in our late experience which can pro- 
perly be considered analogous to it. To enter a body of heavy ice, of great 
and uncertain extent, without any known land stretching in the desired 
direction, is an enterprise differing .a character from almost.any hitherto 
attempted with success. In 1819, indeed, the Heclaand'Griper crossed the 
barrier of ice occupying the centre of Baffin’s Bay for . distance of about 
ninety miles, and succeeded in reaching the open water off Sir James 
' Lancaster’s Sound ; and since that time numbers of whalers have done the 
same: but this distance is small in comparison with that which-ships would 
have to traverse, from the bottom of Prince Regent's Inlet to any part of 
' the navigable channel discovered by Captain Franklin, and which it would 
be their first object to reach. It is however by no means improbable, that some 
‘intervening land may be discovered in this interval to.assist a ship’s progress 
' to the south-westward ; and that, by patience and perseverance, she might 
succeed in gaining the shores of the continent, where it may be.expected 
that only the ordinary difficulties of this navigation would once-more present 


them: 
sea, | 
westv 
Ite 
ment 
conti! 
trust | 
order: 
is not 
questi 
which 
it has 
as wel 
T neve 
have | 
entert 
an att 
the w! 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 491 


themselves. It is possible at the same time that, in so vast an expanse of 
sea, channels of open water may occur to assist a ship’s progress to the 
westward. 

It appears, then, that the chief difficulty, to be anticipated in the accomplish- 
ment of this passage, will consist in getting the ships upon that part of the 
continent, which, from the very best authority, we know to be navigable. I 
trust that the endeavours of the two Expeditions lately employed under my 
orders have at least served the useful purpose-of shewing where-the passage 
is not to be effected, and of thus bringing within very narrow limits the 
question as to where any future attempt should be made. In submitting, 
which-I do with considerable diffidence, the foregoing view of the subject, 
it has not been my intention to create or magnify difficulties, but to suggest 
as well as I am able the best mode of overcoming them. For my own part, 
I never felt more sanguine of ultimate success in the enterprise in which L 
have lately been- engaged, than at the present moment; and I cannot but 
entertain a confident hope that. England may yet be destined to succeed in 
an attempt which has for centuries past engaged her attention, and interested 
the whole civilized world. 


END OF THE NARRATIVE. 


a s] 
ie 
{ 


SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


SOME FURTHER ACCOUNT OF THE ESQUIMAUX OF MELVILLE PENINSULA AND 
THE ADJOINING ISLANDS ;s MORE PARTICULARLY WINTER 
ISLAND AND IGLOOLIK. 


Tue number of individuals composing the tribe of Esquimaux assembled at 
Winter Island and Igloolik was two hundred and nineteen, of whom sixty-nine 
were men, seventy-seven women, and seventy-three children. Two or three 
of the men, from their appearance and infirmities, as well as from the age of 
their children, must have been near seventy ; the rest were from twenty to 
about fifty. The majority of the women were comparatively young, or from 
twenty to five and thirty, and three or four only seemed to have reached sixty. 
Of the children, about one-third were under four years old, and the rest 
from that age upwards to sixteen or seventeen. Out of one hundred and 


fifty-five individuals who passed the winter at Igloolik, we knew of eighteen 
deaths and only of nine births. 

The stature of these people is much below that of Europeans in general. 
One man, who was unusually tall, measured five feet ten inches, and the 
shortest was only four feet eleven inches and a half. Of twenty individuals 
of each sex measured at Igloolik, the range was— 


MEN. WOMEN. 
From 5 ft. 10 in. to 4ft.11in. From 5 ft. 3} in. to 4ft. szin. 
The average height. . . . . Sft.5tin. . . . 1... . . Sft. Obin. 


The women, however, generally appear shorter than they really are, both 
from the unwieldy nature of their clothes, and from a habit which they 
early acquire, of stooping considerably forward in order to balance the weight 
the child they carry in their hood. 

In their figure they are rather well-formed than otherwise. Their knees 
are indeed rather large in proportion, but their legs are straight, and the 
hands and feet, in both sexes, remarkably small. The younger individuals 
were all plump, but none of them corpulent ; the women inclined the most to 
this last extreme, and their flesh was, even in the youngest individuals, quite 
loose and without firmness. 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 493 


Their faces are generally round and full, eyes small and black, nose also 
small and sunk far in between the cheek bones, but not much flattened. 
It is remarkable that one man, Té-d, his brother, his wife and two daughters 
had good Roman noses, and one of the latter was an extremely pretty young 
woman. Their teeth are short, thick, and close, generally regular, and in 
the young persons almost always white. The elderly women were still well 
furnished in this way, though their teeth were usually a good deal worn 
down, probably by the habit of chewing the seal-skins for making boots. 

In the young of both sexes the complexion is clear and transparent, and 
the skin smooth. The colour of the latter, when divested of oil and dirt, is 
scarcely a shade darker than that of a deep brunette, so that the blood is 
plainly perceptible when it mounts into the cheeks. In the old folks, whose 
faces were much wrinkled, the skin appears of a much more dingy hue, the 
dirt being less easily and therefore less frequently dislodged from them. 

Besides the smallness of their eyes, there are two peculiarities in this 
feature common to almost all of them. The first consists in the eye not 
being horizontal as with us, but coming much lower at the end next the nose 
than at the other. Of the second an account, by Mr. Edwards, will be 
given in another place. 

By whatever peculiarities, however, they may in general be distinguished, 
they are by no means ill-looking people; and there were among them three 
or four grown-up persons of each sex who, when divested of their skin- 
dresses, their tattooing and, above all of their dirt, might have been consi- 
dered pleasing-looking if not handsome people in any town in Europe. This 
remark applies more generally to the children also, several of whom had 
complexions nearly as fair as that of Europeans, and whose little bright 
black eyes gave a fine expression to their countenances. 

The hair both of males and females is black, glossy, and straight. “The 
men usually wear it rather long, and allow it to hang about their heads in a 
loose and slovenly manner. A few of the younger men, and especiully those 
who had been about the shores of the Welcome, had it cut straight upon the 
forehead, and two or three had a circular patci: upon the crown of the head, 
where the hair was quite short and thin, somewhat after the manner of 
Capuchin friars. The women pride themselves extremely on the length 
and thickness of their hair; and it was not without reluctance on their part, 
and the same on that of their husbands, that they were induced to dispose 
of any of it. When inclined to be neat they separate their locks into two 


494 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


equal parts, one of which hangs on each side of their heads and in front of 
their shoulders. To stiffen and bind these they use a narrow strap of deer- 
skin, attached at one end to a round picce of bone, fourteen inches long, 
tapered to a point, and: covered’. over with leather. This looks like a little 
whip, the handle of which is placed up and down the hair, and the strap 
wound round it in a number of spiral turns, making the tail, thus equipped, 
very much resemble one of those formerly worn by our seamen. The strap 
of this article of dress, which is altogether called a togleegd, is so made from 
the deer-skin as to shew, when bound round the hair, alternate turns of 
white and dark fur, which give it a very neat and ornamental appearance. 
On ordinary occasions it is considered slovenly not to have the hair thus 
dressed, and the neatest-of the women never visited the ships without it. 
Those who are less-nice dispose their hair into a loose plait on each side, 
or have one togleega and one plait; and others again, wholly disregarding 
the business: of the toilette, merely tucked their hair in under the breast of 
their jackets.. Some of the women’s hair was tolerably fine, but would not 
in this respect bear a comparison with that of an Englishwoman. In both 
sexes it is full of vermin, which they are in the constant habit of picking out 
and eating ; a man and his wife will sit for an hour together, performing 
for each other that friendly office. The women have a comb, (12.)* which, 
however, seems more intended for ornament than use, as we seldom or never 
observed them comb their hair.. When a woman’s husband is ill she wears her 
hair loose, and cuts it off as a sign of mourning if he dies; a custom agreeing 
with that of the Greenlanders +. It is probable also, from what has been before 
said, that some opprobrium is -attached to the loss of a woman’s hair when 
no such occasion demands this sacrifice t. The men wear the hair- on the 
upper lip and chin, from an inch to an inch and a half in length, and some 
were distinguished by a little tuft between the chin and lower lip. 

The dresses both of male and female are composed almost entirely of deer- 
skin, in which respect they differ from those of most Esquimaux before met 


* This and the other numbers thus occurring in the course of: this chapter, refer to the 
corresponding numbers in the two Engravings of Implements, &c. 

+ Crantz’s History of Greenland, London edition, 1767, i. 138, 240. In the following 
account of the Esquimaux, references will occasionally be made to Crantz and Egede, as 
well to point out any dissimilarity, as any resemblance, between these people and the nations 
of Greenland. 

+ Id. ibid. 


with. 
edly 
as lo 
wom 
the ¢ 
the t 
small 
singl 
their 
holdi 
give 
the 
fallir 
it. | 
abou 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 495 


with. In the form of the dress they vary very little from those so repeat- 
edly described. The jacket, which is close, but not tight, all round, comes 
as low as the hips and has sleeves reaching to the wrist. In that of the 
women, the tail or flap behind is very broad, and so long as almost to touch 
the ground ; while ashorterand narrower one before reaches half-way down 
the thigh. The men have also a tail in the hind part of their jacket, but of 
smaller dimensions ; but before, it is generally straight, or ornamented by a 
single scollop. The hood of the jacket, which forms the only covering for 
their head, is much the largest in that of the women, for the purpose of 
holding a child. The back of the jacket also bulges out in the middle to 
give the child a footing, and a strap or girdle below this, and secured round 
the waist by two large wooden buttons in front, prevents the infant from 
falling through when, the hood being in use, it is necessary thus io deposit 
it. The sleeves of the women’s jackets are made more square and loose 
about the shoulders than those of the men, for the convenience, as we under- 
stood, of more readily depositing a child in the ood; 2nd they have a 
habit of slipping their arms out of them, and keeping them in con‘s:t with 
their bodies, for the sake of warmth, just as we do with our fingers in our 
gloves in very cold weather. 

In winter every individual, when in the open air, weirs two jackets, of 
which the outer one (Cappé-téggd) has the hair outside, and the inner one 
(Atteega) next the body. Immediately on entering the hut the men take off 
their outer jacket, beat the snow from it, and lay it by. The upper garment 
of the females, besides being cut according to a regula: and uniform pst- 
tern, and sewed with exceeding neatness, which-is the case with all the 
dresses of these people, has also the flaps ornamented in a very becoming 
manner by a neat border of deer-skin, so arranged as to display alternate 
breadths of white and dark fur. This is, moreover, ugually beautified by a 
handsome fringe, consisting of innumerable ‘ong narrow threads of leather 
hanging down from it. This ornament is u:; ncommon.also.in the outer 
jackets. of the-men. When seal-hunting, ‘they fasten up the tails of their 
jackets with a button behind. 

Their breeches, of which in winter ‘‘i:ey also .wear two pair, and similarly 
disposed as to the fur, reach below the knee, -and -fasten with a string 
drawn tight.round the waist. Though these have little or no waist-band, and 
do not come -very high, the depth of the jackets, which considerably overlap 
them, serves very effectually to complete the covering,of the body. 


496 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


Their legs and feet are so well clothed that no degree of cold can well 
affect them. When a man goes on a sealing excursion, he first puts on a pair 
of deer-skin boots (Allékteegi) with the hair inside and reaching to the 
knee, where they tie. Over these come a pair of shoes of the same mate- 
rial; next a pair of dressed seal-skin boots perfectly water-tight ; and over 
all a corresponding pair of shoes, tying round the instep. These last are 
made just like the mocassin of a North-American Indian, being neatly 
crimped at the toes, and having several serpentine pieces of hide sewn 
across the sole to prevent wearing. The water-tight boots and shoes are 
made of the skin of the small seal, (nettiek) except the soles, which consist 
of the skin of the large seal (oguke) ; this last is also used for their fishing- 
lines. When the men are not prepared to encounter wet, they wear an outer 
boot of deer-skin with the hair outside. 

The inner boot of the women, unlike that of the men, is loose round the 
leg, coming as high as the knee-joint behind, and in front carried up, by a 
long pointed flap, nearly to the waist, and there fastened to the breeches. 
The upper boot, with the hair as usual outside, corresponds with the other 
in shape, except that it is much more full, especially on the outer side, where 
it bulges out so preposterously as to give the women the most awkward, 
bow-legged appearance imaginable. This superfluity of boot has probably 
originated in the custom, still common among the native women of Labrador, 
of carrying their children in them. We were told that these women some- 
times put their children there to sleep; but the custom must be rare among 
them, as we never saw it practised. These boots, however, form their prin- 
cipal pockets, and pretty capacious ones they are. Here, also, as in the 
jackets, considerable taste is displayed in the selection of different parts of 
the deer-skin, alternate strips of dark and white being placed up and down 
the sides and front by way of ornament. The women also wear a mocassin 
(Itteegégd) over all, in the winter-time. 

One or two persons used to wear a sort of ruff round the neck, composed 
of the longest white hair of the deer-skin, hanging down over the bosom in 
a manner very becoming to young people. It seemed to afford so little 
additional warmth to persons already well clothed, that I am inclined 
rather to attribute their wearing it to some superstitious notion. The chil- 
dren between two and eight or nine years of age had a pair of breeches and 
boots united in one, with braces over their shoulders to keep them up. 
These, with a jacket like the others, and a pair of deer-skin mittens, 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 497 


with which each individual is furnished, constitute the whole of their 
dress. Children’s clothes are often made of the skins of very young fawns 
and of the marmot, as being softer than those of the deer. 

The Esquimaux, when thus equipped, may at all times bid defiance to the 
rigour of this inhospitable climate ; and nothing can exceed the comfortable 
appearance which they exhibit even in the most inclement weather. When 
seen at a little distance, the white rim of their hoods, whitened still more by 
the breath collecting and freezing upon it, and contrasted with the dark faces 
which they eacircle, render them very grotesque objects ; but while the skin 
of their dresses continues in good condition, they always look clean and 
wholesome. 

To judge by the eagerness with which the women received our beads, 
especially small white ones, as well as any other article of that kind, we 
might suppose them very fond of personal ornament. Yet of all that they 
obtained from us in this way at Winter-Island, scarcely any thing ever made 
its appearance again during our stay there, except a ring or two on the 
finger, and some bracelets of beads round the wrist ; the latter of these was 
probably considered as a charm of some kind or other. We found among 
them, at the time of our first intercourse, a number of small black and white 
glass beads, disposed alternately on a string of sinew and worn in this 
manner, They would also sometimes hang a small bunch of these, or a 
button or two, in front of their jackets and hair; and many of them, in the 
course of the second winter, covered the whole front of their jackets with 
the beads they received from us. 

The most common ornament of this kind, exclusively their own, consists 
in strings of teeth, sometimes many hundred in number, which are either 
attached to the lower part of the jacket like the fringe before described, or 
fastened as a belt round the waist. Most of these teeth are of the fox and 
wolf, but some also belonged to the musk-ox, (oomingmiik), of which animal, 
though it is never seen at Winter-Island, we procured from the Esquimaux 
several of the grinders and a quantity of the hair and skin. The bones of 
the £ablé-drioo, supposed to be the wolverene, constitute another of their or- 
naments; and it is more than probable that all these possess some imaginary 
qualities, as specific charms for various purposes*. The most extraordinary 
amulet, if it be one, of this kind, was a row of foxes’ noses attached to the 


* Egede's Description of Greenland, London Edition, 1745, p. 194. 
3 8 


498 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


fore-part of a woman’s jacket like a tier of black buttons. I purchased 
from Iligliuk a semicircular ornament of brass, serrated at the upper edge 
and brightly polished, which she wore over her hair in .front and which was 
very becoming. ‘The handsomest thing of this kind, however, was under- 
stood to be worn on the head by men, though we did not learn on what 
occasions, (7.) It consisted of a band two inches in breadth, composed of 
several strips of skin sewn together, alternately black and yellow; near the 
upper edge, some hair was artfully interwoven, forming with the skin a very 
pretty checquer-work: along the lower edge were suspended more than a 
hundred small teeth, principally of the deer, neatly fastened by small double 
tags of sinew and forming a very appropriate fringe. 

Among their personal ornaments must also be reckoned that mode of 
marking the body, called tattooing which, of the customs not essential to 
the comfort or happiness of mankind, is perhaps the most extensively prac- 
tised throughout the world. Among these people it seems to be an ornament 
of indispensable importance to the women, not one of them being without 
it. The operation is performed about the age of ten or sometimes earlier, 
and has nothing to do with marriage, except that, being considered in the 
light of a personal charm, it may serve to recommend them as wives. The 
parts of the body thus marked are their faces, arms, hands, thighs, and in 
some few women the breasts, but never the feet as in Greenland*. The 
operation, which by way of curiosity most of our gentlemen had prac- 
tised on their arms, is very expeditiously managed by passing a needle and 
thread, the latter covered with lamp-black and oil+, under the epidermis, 
according to a pattern previously marked out upon the skin. Several stitches 
being thus taken at once, the thumb is pressed upon the part, while the 
thread is drawn through, by which means the colouring matter is retained 
and a permanent dye of a blue tinge imparted to the skin. A woman ex- 
pert at this business will perform it very quickly and with great regularity, 
but seldom without drawing blood in many places, and occasioning some 
inflammation. Where so large a portion of the surface of the body is 
to be covered, it must become a painful as well as tedious process, espe- 
cially as, for want of needles, they often use a strip of whalebone as a 
substitute. For those parts where a needle cannot conveniently be passed 
under the skin, they use the method by puncture, which is common in 


* Crants, I. 188, + Id. Ibid, 


Engraved by Edw? Find+s 


—— 


Sas SSS 


: 
| 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 499 


other countries, and by which our seamen frequently mark their hands and 
arms. The pattern which these people adopt, and which is nearly the same 
in all, will best and can indeed be only understood by reference to Cap- 
tain Lyon’s drawings, in which it is faithfully delineated. Several of the 
men had a little of this kind of mark on the back part of their hands ; 
and with them we understood it to be considered as a souvenir of some dis- 
tant or deceased person who had performed it. 

In their winter-habitations, I have before mentioned that the only mate- 
rials employed are snow and ice; the latter being made use of for the win- 
dows alone. The work is commenced by cutting from a drift of hard and 
compact snow a number of oblong slabs, six or seven inches thick and 
about two feet in length, and laying them edgeways on a level spot, also 
covered with snow, in a circular form and of a diameter from eight to fifteen 
fect, proportioned to the number of occupants the hut is to contain. Upon 
this as a foundation is laid a second tier of the same kind, but with the 
pieces inclining a little inwards, and made to fit closely to the lower slabs 
and to each other, by running a knife adroitly along the under part and 
sides. The top of this tier is now prepared for the reception of a third, by 
squaring it off smoothly with a knife, all which is dexterously performed by 
one man standing within the circle and receiving the blocks of snow from 
those employed in cutting them without. When the wall has attained a 
height of four or five feet, it leans so much inward as to appear as if about 
to tumble every moment, but the workmen still fearlessly lay their blocks 
of snow-upon it, until it is too high any longer to furnish the materials to 
the builder in this manner. Of this he gives notice by cutting a hole close 
to the ground in that part where the door is intended to be, which is near 
the south side, and tirough this the snow is now passed. Thus they con- 
tinue till they have brought the sides nearly to meet in a perfect and well- 
constructed dome, sometimes nine or ten feet high in the centre ; and this 
they take considerable care in finishing, by fitting the last block or /ey-stone 
very nicely in the centre, dropping it into its place from the outside though 
it is still done by the man within. The people outside are in the mean time 
occupied in throwing up snow with the pdoalléray, or snow-shovel, (5.) and 
in stuffing in little wedges of snow wiere holes have been accidentally left. 

The builder next proceeds to let himself out by enlarging the proposed 
door-way into the form of a Gothic arch three feet high, and two fect and a 
half wide at the bottom, communicating with which they construct two 

382 


500 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


passages, as shewn in the annexed ground-plan, each from ten to twelve 
feet long and from four to five in height, the lowest being that next the 
hut. 5TH 


s 
N 
: 
S 


The roofs of these passages are sometimes arched, but more generally 
made flat by slabs laid on horizontally. In first digging the snow for build- 
ing the hut, they take it principally from the part where the passages are to 
be made, which purposely brings the floor of the latter considerably lower 
than that of the hut, but in no part do they dig till the bare ground appears. 

The work just described completes the walls of a hut, if a single apart- 
ment only be required ; but if, on account of relationship, or from any other 
cause, several families are to reside under one roof, the passages are made 
common to all, and the first apartment (in that case made smaller) forms a 
kind of anti-chamber, from which you go through an arched door-way five 
feet high into the inhabited apartments. When there are three of these, 
which is generally the case, the whole building with its adjacent passages, 
forms a tolerably regular cross. 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 501 


For the admission of light into the huts a round hole is cut on one side of 
the roof of each apartment, and a circular plate of ice, three or four inches 
thick and two feet in diameter, let into it. The light is soft and pleasant 
like that transmitted through ground glass, and is quite sufficient for every 
purpose. When after some time these edifices become surrounded by drift, 
it is only by the windows, as I have before remarked, that they could be 
recognised as human habitations. It may perhaps then be imagined how 
singular is their external appearance at night, when they discover themselves 
only by a circular disk uf light transmitted through the windows from the 
lamps within. 

The next thing to be done is to raise a bank of snow two and a half feet 
high, all round the interior of each apartment, except on the side next the 
door. This bank, which is neatly squared off, forms their beds and fire-place, 
the former occupying the sides and the latter the end opposite the door. 
The passage left open up to the fire-place is between three and four feet 
wide, The beds are arranged by first covering the snow with a quantity of 
small stones, over which are laid their paddles, tent-poles, and some blades of 
whalebone: above these they place a number of little pieces of net-work, 
made of thin slips of whalebone, and lastly a quantity of twigs of bich* and 
of the andromeda tetragona. Their deer-skins, which are very numerous, 
can now be spread without risk of their touching the snow ; and such a bed is 
capable of affording not merely comfort but luxurious repose, in spite of the 
rigour of the climate. The skins tlius used as blankets are made of a large 
size and bordered, like some of the jackets, with a fringe of long narrow slips 
of leather, in which state a blanket is called Led. 

The fire belonging to each family consists of a single lamp, or shallow 
vessel of lapis ollaris, its form being the lesser segment of a circle. (2.) The 
wick, composed of dry moss rubbed between the hands ‘till it is quite inflam- 
mable, is disposed along the edge of the lamp on the strait side, and a greater 
or smaller quantity lighted according to the heat required or the fuel that 
can be afforded. When the whole length of this, which is sometimes above 
eighteen inches, is kindled, it affords a most brilliant and beautiful light 


* This birch they said had been procured from the southward, by way of Noowook. We 
never met with any of the same kind in those parts of the country which we visited, except 
that observed by Captain Lyon in the deserted habitations of the Esquimaux near Five 
Haweer-Bay. 


502 


SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


without any perceptible smoke or offensive smell. The lamp is made to 
supply itself with oil, by suspending a long thin slice of whale, seal, or sea- 
horse blubber near the flame, the warmth of which causes the oil to drip into 
the vessel until the whole is extracted. Immediately over the lamp is fixed 
arude and ricketty frame: vork of wood, from which their pots are suspended, 

and serving also to sustain a large hoop of bone, having a net stretched tight 

within it. This contrivance, called Innétdt, is intended for the reception of 
any wet things, and is usually loaded with boots, shoes, and mittens. 

The fire-place just d-scribed as situated at the upper end of the apartment, 
has always two lamps facing different ways, one for each family occupying 
the corresponding bed-place. There is frequently also a smaller and less- 
pretending establishment on the same model, lamp, pot, net and all, in one 
of the couiers next the door; for one apartment sometimes contains three 
families, which are always closely related, and no married woman or even a 
widow without children is without her separate fire-place. 

With all the lamps lighted and the hut full of people and dogs, a thermo- 
meter placed on the net over the fire indicated a temperature of 38°; when 
removed two'or three feet from this situation it. fell to 32°, and placed close 
to the wall stood at 23°, the temperature of the open air at the time being 
25° below zero. A greater degree of warmth than this, produces extreme 
inconvenience by the dropping from the roofs. This they endeavour to 
obviate, by applying a little piece of snow to the place from which a drop 
proceeds, and this adhering is for a short time an effectual remedy ; but for 
several weeks in the spring, when the weather is too warm for these edifices, 
and still too cold for tents, they suffer much on this account, 

The most important perhaps of the domestic utensils, next to the lamp 
already described, are the ootkd0sééks or stone pots for cooking. (1.) These 
are hollowed out of solid lapis ollaris, of an oblong form, wider at the top than at 
the bottom, all made in similar proportion though of various sizes, correspond- 
ing with the dimensions of the lamp which burns under it. The pot is sus- 
pended by aline of sinew at each end to the frame-work over the fire, and 
thus becomes so black on every side that the original colour of the stone is in 
nopart discernible. Many of them were cracked quite across in several places, 
and mended by sewing with sinew or rivets of copper, iron, or lead, so as 
with the assistance of a lashing and a due proportion of dirt to render them 

quite water-tight. I may here remark, that as these people distinguish the 


Wage 
that ti 
‘bourh 
them 
One o 
her ps 
article 
point 
Bay, 
Bes 
of var 
tusk, ( 
fin’s E 
mon 
every 
of a 
family 
to car 
we u 
numb 
made 
small 
somet 
be alr 
conve 
call Ii 
Bes 
servit 
is ver 
straig 
this i: 
two. o 


* it 
sea lyi 


tingui: 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 503 


Wager River by the name of Oothdoseck-sdilik,* we were at first led to conjecture 
that they procured their pots, or the material for making them, in that neigh- 
pbourhood: this, however, they assured us was not the case, the whole of 
them coming from Akkoolee, where the stone is found in very high situations. 
One of the women at Winter Island, who came from that country, said that 
her parents were much employed in making these pots, chiefly it seems as 
articles of barter. The asbestos which they use in the shape of a roundish 
pointed stick, called tatko, for trimming the lamps, is met with about Repulse 
Bay, and generally as they said on low land. 

Besides the ootkooseeks, they have circular and oval vessels of whalebone 
of various sizes which, as well as their ivory knives made out of a walrus’ 
tusk, (16.) are precisely similar to those described on the western coast of Baf- 
fin’s Bay in 1820+. ‘They have also a number of smaller vessels of skin sewed 
neatly together ; and a large basket of the same material, resembling a com- 
mon sieve in shape, but with the bottom close and tight, is to be seen in 
every apartment. Under every lamp stands a sort of “ save-all,” consisting 
of asmall skin basket for catching the oil that falls over. Almost every 
family was in possession of a wooden tray very much resembling those used 
to carry butchers’ meat in England, and of nearly the same dimensions, which 
we understood them to have procured by way of Noowook. They had a 
number of the bowls or cups already once or twice alluded to as being 
made out of the thick root of the horn of the musk-ox. (26.) Of the 
smaller part of the same horn they also form a convenient drinking-cup, (9.) 
sometimes turning it up artificially about one-third from the point, so as to 
be almost parallel to the other part, and cutting it full of small notches asa 
convenience in grasping it. (8.) These or any other vessel for drinking they 
call Immoochiuk-. 

Besides the ivory knives, the men were well supplied with a much more 
serviceable kind, made of iron, and called panna. (14.) The form of this knife 
is very peculiar, being seven inches long, two and a quarter broad, quite 
straight and flat, pointed at the end, and ground equally sharp at both edges ; 
this is firmly secured into a handle of bone or wood, above a foot long, by 
two or three iron rivets. This formidable looking weapon, of which Cap- 


* It will be seen by the chart that the Esquimaux gave us information of an arm of the 
sea lying opposite to Wager River, on the Northern Coast of America, which taey also dis- 
tinguish by the same name, and which is only one or two days’ journey distant from the other. 

+ Journal of the Voyage of 1819-20, p. 286. 


504 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


tain Lyon’s drawing renders any further description unnecessary, ha: «. 
the appearance of a most destructive spear head, but is nevertheles: put to 
no other purpose than that of a very useful knife, which the men are scarcely 
ever without, especially on their sealing excursions. For these, and several 
knives of European form, they are probably indebted to an indirect commu- 
nication with our factories in Hudson’s Bay. The same may bé observed of 
the best of their women’s knives, (ooloo,) on one of which, of a larger size 
than usual, were the names of “ Wild and Sorby.” When of their own 
manufacture, the only iron part was a little narrow slip let into the bone and 
secured by rivets. (27.) It would be superfluous to offer any further verbal 
description of these knives, of which Crantz has put one into the hand of a 
Greenland woman in plate 3, p. 136, of his first volume. It is curious to ob- 
serve in this and in numerous other instances, how exactly, amidst all the di- 
versity of time and place, these people have preserved unaltered their manners 
and habits. That which an absurd dread of innovation does in China, the 
want of intercourse with other nations has effected among the Esquimaux. 

Of the horn of the musk-ox they make also very good spoons much like 
ours in shape; and I must not omit to mention their marrow-spoons, (pattch- 
niuk, from patték, marrow,) made out of long narrow hollowed pieces of bone, 
of which every housewife has a bunch of half a dozen or more tied to- 
gether, and generally attached to her needle-case. (25.) 

For the purpose of obtaining fire the Esquimaux use two lumps of com- 
mon iron pyrites, from which sparks are struck into a little leathern case, 
containing moss well dried and rubbed between the hands. If this tinder 
does not readily catch, a small quantity of the white floss of the seed of 
the ground willow is laid above the moss. As soon as a spark has caught, it 
is gently blown till the fire has spread an inch around, when, the pointed 
end of a piece of oiled wick being applied, it soon bursts into a flame, the 
whole process having occupied perhaps two or three minutes. 

Among the articles in their possession, which must have been obtained 
by communication along shore with Hudson’s Bay, were two large copper 
kettles, several open knives with crooked wooden handles, and many frag- 
ments of copper, iron, and old files. On a small European axe was observed 
the name of ‘“ Foster *.” 


* It may perhaps be the means of saving useless conjectures at some future time to mention, 
that on sev.ral knives made by the armourer of the Hecla, the name of “James Wilkes” 
was marked, together with the Prince of Wales's feathers. 


In 
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OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 505 


In enumerating the articles of their food we might perhaps give a list of 
every animal inhabiting these regions, as they certainly will at times eat 
any one of them. Their principal dependence however is on the rein-deer, 
(tooktod ;) musk-ox, (oomingmitk,) in the parts where this animal is found ; 
whale, (aggdwek ;) walrus, (¢i-ti-ék ;) the large and small seal, (ogitke and 
neitiek ;) and two sorts of salmon, the éweée-tardke, (salmo alpinus?) and 
ichluowoke. The latter is taken by hooks in fresh-water lakes, and the 
former by spearing in the shoal water of certain inlets of the sea. Of all 
these animals, they can only procure in the winter the walrus and small seal 
upon this part of the coast; and these at times, as we have seen, in scarcely 
sufficient quantity for their subsistence. 

They certainly in general prefer eating their meat cooked, and while 
they have fuel they usually boil it; but this is a luxury and not a necessary 
to them. Oily as the nature of their principal food is, yet they commonly 
take an equal proportion of lean to their fat, and unless very hungry do 
not eat it otherwise. Oil they seldom or never use in any way as a part of 
their general diet ; and even our butter, of which they were fond, they would 
not eat without a due quantity of bread*. They do not like salt meat 
as well as fresh, and never use salt themselves; but ship’s pork or even a 
red herring did not come amiss to them. Of pea-soup they would eat as 
much as the sailors could afford to give them; and that word was the only 
one, with the exception of our names, which many of them ever learned in 
English. Among their own luxuries must be mentioned a rich soup called 
kayo, made of blood, gravy, and water, and eaten quite hot. In obtaining 
the names of several plants, which will be found in the vocabulary, we 
learned that they sometimes eat the leaves of sorrel, (kongolek,) and those of 
the ground wiltow; as also the red berries, (paoona-rootik,) of the vaccinum 
uliginosum, and the root of the potentilla pulchella ; but these cannot be said to 
form a part of their regular diet ; scurvy grass they never eat. 

Their only drink is water; and of this when they can procure it they 
swallow an inconceivable quantity ; so that one of the principal occupatiois 
of the women during the winter is the thawing of snow in the ootkooseks for 
this purpose. They cut it into thin slices, and are careful to have it clean, on 


* Toolooak, who was a frequent visitor at the young gentlemen's mess-table on board the 
Fury, once evinced this taste, and no small cunning at the same time, by asking alternately 
for a little more bread, and a little more butter, till he had made a hearty meal. 


8 T 


506 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


which account they will bring it from a distance of fifty yards from the 
huts. They have an extreme dislike to drinking water much above the 
temperature of 22°. In eating their meals the mistress of the family, having 
previously cooked the meat, takes a large Jump out of the pot with her 
fingers and hands it to her husband, who placing a part of it between his 
teeth cuts it off with a large knife in that position, and then passes the 
knife and meat together to his next neighbour. In cutting off a mouthful 
of meat the knife passes so close to their lips, that nothing but constant 
habit could ensure them from the danger of the most terrible gashes ; and it 
would make an English mother shudder to see the manner in which 
children, five or six years old, arc at all times freely trusted with a knife to 
be used in this way. 

The length of one of the best of seven cances belonging to these Esqui- 
maux was twenty-five fect, including a narrow-pointed projection, three 
fect long at each end, which turns a little upward from the horizontal. The 
extreme breadth, which is just before the circular hole, wes twenty-one 
inches and the depth ten inches and a half. The plane of the upper sur- 
face cf the canoe, except in the two extreme projections, bends downwards 
a little from the centre towards the head and stern, giving it the appearance 
of what in ships is called “ broken-backed.”” The gunwales are of fir, in 
some instances of one piece, three or four inches broad in the centre and 
tapering gradually away towards the ends, The timbers, as well as the 
fore-and-aft connecting pieces, are of the same material, the former being 
an inch square, and sometimes so close together as to require between forty 
and fifty of them in one canoe; which when thus “ in frame” is one of the 
prettiest things of the kind that can be imagined. The skin with which 
the canoe is covered is exclusively that of the neitiek, prepared by scraping 
off the hair and fat with an ooloo, and stretching it tight on a frame over the 
fire ; after which and a good deal of chewing, i. is sewn on by the women 
with admirable neatness and strength. Their paddles have a blade at each 
end, the whole length being nine feet and a half; the blades are covered 
with a narrow plate of bone round the ends to secure them from splitting : 
they are always made of fir, and generally of several pieces scarfed and 
woolded together, 

In summer they rest their canoes upon two small stones raised four 
feet from the ground ; and in winter, on a similar structure of snow; in 
one case to allow them to dry freely, and in the other to prevent the 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 507 


snow-drift from covering, and the dogs from eating them. The difficulty 
of procuring a canoe may be concluded from the circumstance of there 
being at Winter Island twenty men able to manage one, and only seven 
canoes among them. Of these indeed only three or four were in good 
repair; the rest being wholly or in part stripped of the skin, of which a 
good deal was occasionally cut off during the winter, to make boots, shoes, 
and mittens for our people. We found no oomiak, or women’s boat, among 
them, and understood that they were not in the habit of using them, 
which may in part be accounted for by their passing so much of the summer 
in the interior; they knew very well however what they were, and made 
some clumsy models of them for our people. 

In the weapons used for killing their game there is considerable variety, 
according to the animal of which they are in pursuit. The most simple 
of these is the oondk, which they use only for killing the small seal. It 
consists of a light staff of wood, four feet in length, having at one end 
the point of a narwhal’s horn, from ten to eighteen inches leng, firmly 
secured by rivets and wooldings: at the other end, is a smaller and less 
effective point of the same kind. To prevent losing the ivory part, in case 
of the wood breaking, a stout thong runs along the whole length of the 
wood, each end passing through a hole in the ivory, and the bight secured 
in several places to the staff. In this weapon, as far as it has yet been 
described, there is little art or ingenuity displayed; but a considerable degree 
of both in an appendage called siatkd (13), consisting of a piece of bone 
three inches long, and having a point of iron at one end, and at the other 
end a small hole or socket to receive the point of the oonak. Through the 
middle of this instrument is secured the dllek, or line of thong, of which 
every man has, when sealing, a couple of coils, each from four to six fathoms 
long, hanging at his back. These are made of the skin of the oguwke as in 
Greenland *, and are admirably adapted io the purpose, both on account of 
their strength, and the property which they possess of preserving their plia- 
bility even in the most intense frost. 

When a seal is seen, the siatko is taken from a little leathern case in 
which, when out of use, it is carefully enclosed, and attached by its socket 
to the point of the spear (18); in this situation it is retained by bring- 
ing the allck tight down and fastening it round the u.iddle of the staff by 
what seamen call a “ slippery hitch,” which may instantly be disengaged 


* Crantz, I., 125. 
ST 2 


508 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


by pulling on the other end of the line. As soon as the spear has been 
thrown, and the animal struck, the siatko is thus purposely separated, and 
being slung by the middle now performs very effectually the important 
office of a barb, by turning at right angles to the direction in which it has 
entered the orifice. This device is in its principle superior even to our barb; 
for the instant any strain is put upon the line it acts like a toggle, opposing 
its length to a wound only as wide as its own breadth. 

The akléeak, or akleegd, used for the large seal, has a blown bladder attached 
to the staff, for the purpose of impeding the animal in the water (18). 
The weapon with two long parallel prongs of bone or iron, obtained from 
the natives of the Savage Islands, these people also called akleak, and said 
it was for killing seals. 

The third and largest weapon is that called kattcelit (20), with which the 
walrus and whale are attacked. The staff of this is not longer, but much 
stouter than that of the others, especially towards the middle, where there is 
a small shoulder of ivory securely lashed to it for the thumb to rest against, 
and thus to give additional force in throwing or thrusting the spear, The 
ivory point of this weapon is made to fit into a socket at the end of the staff, 
where it is secured by double thongs (21), in such a manner as steadily to 
retain its position when a strain is put upon it in the direction of its length, but 
immediately disengaging itself with a sort of spring, when any lateral strain 
endangers its breaking. The siatko is always used with this spear; and to 
the end of the allek, when the animal pursued is in open water, they attach 
a whole seal-skin, (how-wit-td,) inflated like a bladder, for the purpose of 
tiring it out in its progress through the water. 

They have a spear called ippoo for killing deer in the water, They de- 
scribed it as having a light staff and a small head of iron; but they had none 
of these so fitted in the winter. The nigiiee, or dart for birds(19), has, 
besides its two ivory prongs at the end of the staff, three divergent ones in the 
middle of it, with several small double barbs upon them turning inwards ; they 
differ from the nuguit of Greenland *, and that of the Savage Islands, in having 
these prongs always of ure qual lengths. To give additional velocity to the bird- 
dart, they use a throwing-stick (noke-shak) which is probably the same as the 
‘* hand-board ” figured by Crantz. It consists of a flat board about eighteen 
inches in length, having « groove to receive the staff, two others and a hole 
for the fingers and thumb, and a small spike fitted fora hole in the end of the 


* Crantz, 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 509 


staff. This instrument is used for the bird-dart only. The spear for salmon 
or other fish, called Aakhée-wéi, consists of a wooden staff with a spike of 
bone or ivory, three inches long, secured at one end. On each side of the 
spike is a curved prong, much like that of a pitch-fork, but made of flexible 
horn which gives them a spring, and having a barb on the inner part of the 
point turning downwards, Their fish-hooks (kaklidkia) consist only of a nail 
crooked and pointed at one end, the other being let into a piece of ivory to 
which the line is attached. A piece of deer’s horn or curved bone, only a 
foot long, is used as a rod, and completes this very rude part of their fishing- 
gear (10). 

Of their mode of killing seals in the winter, I have already spoken in the 
course of the foregoing narrative, as far as we were enabled to make our- 
selves acquainted with it. In their summer exploits on the water, the killing 
of the whale is the most arduous undertaking which they have to perform ; 
and one cannot sufficiently admire the courage and activity which, with gear 
apparently so inadequate, it must require to accomplish this business. 
Okotook, who was at the killing of two whales in the course of a single 
summer, and who described the whole of it quite con amore, mentioned the 
names of thirteen men who, each in his canoe, had assisted on one of these 
occasions. When a fish is seen lying on the water, they cautiously paddle 
up astern of him till a single canoe, preceding the rest, comes close to him 
on one quarter, so as to enable the man to drive the fatteeliz into the 
animal with all the force of both arms. This having the siatko, a long allek, 
and the inflated seal-skin attached to it, the whale immediately dives, taking 
the whole apparatus with him except the katteeli< which, being disengaged 
in the manner before described, floats to the surface and is picked up by 
its owner. The animal re-appearing after some time, all the canoes again 
paddle towards him, some warning being given by the seal-skin buoy float- 
ing on the surface. Each man being furnished like the first, they repeat the 
blows as often as they find opportunity, till perhaps every line has been thus 
employed. After pursuing him in this manner, sometimes for half a day, he 
is at length so wearied by the resistance of the buoys, and exhausted by loss 
of blood, as to be obliged to rise more and more often to the surface when, 
by frequent wounds with their spears, they succeed in killing him, and tow 
their prize in triumph to the shore, It is probable that with the whale, as 
with the smaller sea-animals, some privilege or perquisite is given to the first 
striker; and, like our own fishermen, they take a pride in having it known 


510 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


that their spear has been the first to inflict a wound. They meet with the 
most whales on the coast of Eiwillik. 

In attacking the walrus in the water, they use the same gear, but much 
more caution than with the whale, always throwing the katteelik from some 
distance, lest the animal should attack the cance and demolish it with his 
tusks. The walrus is in fact the only animal with which they use any cau- 
tion of this kind. They like the flesh better than that of the seal; but 
venison is preferred by them to cither of these, and indeed to any other kind 
of meat. 

At Winter Island they carefully preserved the heads of all the animals 
killed during the winter, except two or three of the walrus which we ob- 
tained with great difficulty. There is probably some superstition attached 
to this, but they told us that they were to be thrown into the sea in the 
summer, which a Greenlander* studiously avoids doing; and indeed, at 
Igloolik, they had no objection to part with them before the summer 
arrived. As the blood of the animals which they kill is all used as food of 
the most luxurious kind, they are careful to avoid losing any portion of it ; 
for this purpose they carry with them on their excursions a little instrument 
of ivory called tdopootd, in form and size exactly resembling a ‘ twenty- 
penny ” nail (25), with which they stop up the orifice made by the spear, 
by thrusting it through the skin by the sides of the wound, and securing 
it with a twist. I must here also mention a simple little instrument called 
keipkittuk, being a slender rod of bone nicely rounded, and having a point 
at one end and a knob or else a laniard at the other(17). The use of 
this is to thrust through the ice where they have reason to believe a seal is at 
work underneath. This little instrument is sometimes made as delicate as a 
fine wire, that the seal may not see it; and a part still remaining above the 
surface informs the fishermen by its motion whether the animal is employed 
in making his hole: if not, it remains undisturbed, and the attempt is given 
up in that place. 

One of the best of their bows was made of a single piece of fir, four feet 
eight inches in length, flat on the inner side and rounded on the outer, 
being five inches in girth about the middle where, however, it is strength- 
ened on the concave side, when strung, by a niece of bone ten inches long, 
firmly secured by tree-nails of the same material. At each end of the bow 


* Crantz, 1, 216. 


isa 
notc 
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thre 
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ticula 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 511 


is a knob of bone, or sometimes of wood covered with leather, with a deep 
notch for the reception of the string. The only wood which they can procure, 
not possessing sufficient elasticity combined with strength, they ingeniously 
remedy the defect by securing to the back of the bow, and to the knobs at 
each end, a quantity of small lines, each composed of a plat or “sinnet” of 
three sinews. The number of lines thus reaching from end to end is gene- 
rally about thirty ; but besides these, severai others are fastened with hitches 
round the bow, in pairs, commencing eight inches from one end, and again 
united at the same distance from the other, making the whole number of 
strings in the middle of the bow sometimes amount to sixty. These being 
put on with the bow somewhat bent the contrary way, produce a spring so 
strong as to require considerable force as well as knack in stringing it, and 
giving the requisite velocity to the arrow. The bow is completed by a 
woolding round the middle and a wedge or two, here and there, driven in 
to tighten it. A bow in one piece is however very rare; they generally 
consist of from two to five pieces of bone of unequal lengths, secured toge- 
ther by rivets and tree-nails (22). 

The arrows vary in length from twenty to thirty inches, according to the 
materials that can be commanded. About two-thirds of the whole length is 
of fir rounded, and the rest of bone let by a socket into the wood, and 
having a head of thin iron, or more commonly of slate, secured into a slit by 
two tree-nails. Towards the opposite end of the arrow are two feathers, 
generally of the spotted oval, not very neatly lashed on*. The bow-string 
consists of from twelve to eighteen small lines of three-sinew sinnet, having 
a loose twist, and with a separate becket of the same size for going over the 
knobs at the end of the bow. 

We tried their skill in archery by getting them to shoot at a mark fora 
prize, though with bows in extremely bad order on account of the frost and 
their hands very cold. The mark was two of their spears stuck upright in 
the snow, their breadth being three inches and a half. At twenty yards 
they struck this every time ; at thirty sent the arrows always within an inch 
or two of it; and at forty or forty-five yards, I should think, would generally 
hit a fawn if the animal stood still. These weapons are perhaps sufficient 
to inflict a mortal wound at something more than that distance, for which, 


* An arrow-head of a more complicated form, but of which we did not discover the par- 
ticular use, is figured in the engraving (15). 


512 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


however, a strong arm would be required. The animals which they kill with 
the bow and arrow for their subsistence are principally the musk-ox and deer, 
and less frequently the bear, wolf, fox, hare, and some of the smaller 
animals. 

It is a curious fact, that the musk-ox is very rarely found to extend his 
migrations to the eastward of a line passing through Repulse Bay, or about 
the meridian of 86° West, while, in a northern direction, we know that he 
travels as far as the seventy-sixth degree of latitude. In Greenland this 
animal is known only by vague and exaggerated report; on the western 
coast of Baffin’s Bay it has certainly been seen, though very rarely, by the 
present inhabitants ; and the eldest person belonging to the Winter Island 
tribe had never seen one to the eastward of Hiwilli, where, as well as at 
Akkdolec, they are said to be numerous on the banks of fresh-water lakes 
and streams. The few men who had been present at the killing of one of 
these creatures, seemed to pride themselves very much upon it. Toolooak, 
who was about seventeen years of age, had never seen cither the musk-ox 
or the kableé-arioo, a proof that the latter, also, is not common in this corner 
of America. 

The rein-deer are killed by the Esquimaux in great abundance in the 
summer season, partly by driving them from islands or narrow necks of land 
into the sea, and then spearing them from their canoes ; and partly by shoot- 
ing them from behind heaps of stones raised for the purpose of watching 
them, and imitating their peculiar bellow or grunt. Among the various arti- 
fices which they employ for this purpose, one of the most ingenious consists in 
two men walking directly from the deer they wish to kill, when the animal 
almost always follows them. As soon as they arrive at a large stone, one of 
the men hides behind it with his bow, while the other continuing to walk 
on soon leads the deer within range of his companion’s arrows. They are 
also very careful to keep to leeward of the deer, and will scarcely go out 
after ‘em at all when the weather is calm. For several weeks in the course 
of the summer, some of these people almost entirely give up their fishery on 
the coast, retiring to the banks of lakes several miles in the interior, which 
they represent as large and deep and abounding with salmon, while the 
pasture near them affords good feeding to numerous herds of deer. 

The distance to which these people extend their inland migrations, and 
the extent of coast of which they possess a personal knowledge, are really 
very considerable. Of these we could at the time of our first intercourse form 


no corr 
seenth ( 
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another 
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on one 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 513 


no correct judgment, from our uncertainty as to the length of what they call a 
seentk (sleep), or one day’s journey, by which alone they could describe to 
us, with the help of their imperfect arithmetic, the distance from one place to 
another, But our subsequent knowledge of the coast has cleared up much 
of this difficulty, affording the means of applying to their hydrographical 
sketches a tolerably accurate scale for those parts which we have not hitherto 
visited. A great number of these people, who were born at Amitioke and 
Igloolik, had been to Noowoo/, or nearly as far south as Chesterfield Inlet, 
which is about the ne plus ultra of their united knowledge in a southerly 
direction. Not one of them had been by water round to Akkoolee, but 
several by land; in which mode of travelling they only consider that 
country from three to five days’ journey from Repulse Bay. Okotook and 
a few others of the Winter Island tribe | extended their peregrinations 
a considerable distance to the northwarc, over the large insular piece of 
land to which we have applied the name of Cockburn Island ; which they 
described as high land, and the resort of numerous rein-deer. Here 
Okotook informed us he had seen icebergs, which these people call by 
a name (piccdlooydk) having in its pronunciation some affinity to that used 
in Greenland*. By the information afterwards obtained when nearer the 
spot, we had reason to suppose this land must reach beyond the seventy- 
second degree of latitude in a northerly direction ; so that these people pos- 
sess a personal knowledge of the Continent of America and its adjacent 
islands, from that parallel to Chesterfield Inlet in 632°, being a distance of 
more than five hundred miles reckoned in a direct line, besides the numer- 
ous turnings and windings of the coast along which they are accustomed to 
travel. Ewerat and some others had been a considerable distance up the 
Wager River; but no record had been preserved among them of Captain 
Middleton’s visit to that inlet about the middle of the last century. 

Of the continental shore to the westward of Akkoolee, the Esquimaux 
invariably disclaimed the slightest personal knowledge ; for no land can be 
seen in that direction from the hills. They entertain, however, a confused 
idea that neither Esquimaux nor Indians could there subsist for want of 
food. Of the Indians they know enough by tradition to hold them in 
considerable dread, on account of their cruel and ferocious manners. When, 
on one occasion, we related the circumstances of the inhuman massacre 


* Tlluliak. 


7 


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TEST TARGET (MT-3) 
UZ Wide ese 


514 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


described vy Hearne, they crowded round us in the hut, listening with mute 
and almost breathless attention; and the mothers drew their children closer 
to them, as if te guard them from the dreadful catastrophe. It is worthy 
of notice, that they call the Indians by a name ( Eert-kei-lée)) which appears 
evidently the same as that * applied by the Greenlanders to the man-eaters 
supposed to inhabit the eastern coast of their country, and to whom terror 
has assigned a face like that of a dog. 

The Esquimaux take some animals in traps, and by a very ingenious con- 
trivance of this kind they caught two wolves at Winter Island. It consists of 
asmall house built of ice, at one end of which a door, made of the same 
plentiful material, is fitted to slide up and down in a groove ; to the upper 
part of this a line is attached and, passing over the roof, is led down into the 
trap at the inner end, and there held by slipping an eye in the end of it over 
a peg of ice left for the purpose. Over the peg, however, is previously 
placed a loose grummet, to which the bait is fastened, and a false roof placed 
over all to hide the line. The moment the animal drags at the bait the 
grummet slips off the peg, bringing with it the line that held up the door, 
and this falling down closes the trap and secures him. 

A trap for birds is formed by building a house of snow just large enough 
to contain one person, who closes himself up init. On the top is left a small 
aperture, through which the man thrusts one of his hands to secure the bird 
the momenghe alights to take away a bait of meat laid beside it. It is prin- 
cipally gulls that are taken thus ; and the boys sometimes amuse themselves in 
this manner. A trap in which they catch foxes has been mentioned in ano- 
ther place. 

The sledges belonging to these Esquimaux were in general large and 
heavily constructed, being more adapted to the carriage of considerable 
burdens than to very quick travelling. They varied in size, being from six 
and a half to nine feet in length, and from cighteen inches to two feet in 
breadth. Some of those at Igloolik were of larger dimensions, one being 
eleven feet in length, and weighing two hundred and sixty-eight pounds, 
and two or three others above two hundred pounds. The runners are 
sometimes made of the right and left jaw-bones of a whale; but more 
commonly of several pieces of wood or bone scarfed and lashed together, 
the interstices being filled to make all smooth and firm with moss stuffed 


* Erkiglit, Crants, I, 208, 269. 


in tig 
lower | 
fresh- 
which 
with a 
it till 
done a 
in part 
spirting 
curious 
structe¢ 
this pu 
requisit 
them ; 
consist 
being , 
shoeing 
six mon 
for wint 
rials. ' 
bone, v 
seal-ski 
attachec 
them wl 
away wi 
of stren; 
ing coul 
The « 
hundred 
add res 
Igloolik 
describe 
In the | 
and bus 
when of 
nistaker 
ence is | 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 515 


in tight, and then cemented by throwing water to freeze upon it. The 
lower part of the runner is shod with a plate of harder bone, coated with 
fresh-water ice to make it run smoothly, and to avoid wear and tear, both 
which purposes are thus completely answered. This coating is performed 
with a mixture of snow and fresh-water about half an inch thick, rubbed over 
it till it is quite smooth and hard upon the surface, and this is usually 
done a few minutes before’setting out on a journey. When the ice is only 
in part worn off, it is renewed by taking some water into the mouth, and 
spirting it over the former coating. We noticed a sledge which was extremely 
curious, on account of one of the runners and a part of the other being con- 
structed without the assistance of wood, iron, or bone of any kind. For 
this purpose, a number of seal-skins being rolled up and disposed into the 
requisite shape, an outer coat of the same kind was sewed tightly round 
them ; this formed the upper half of the runner, the lower part of which 
consisted entirely of moss moulded while wet into the proper form, and 
being left to freeze, adhering firmly together and to the skins. The usual 
shoeing of smooth ice beneath completed the runner, which for more than 
six months out of twelve, in this climate, was nearly as hard as any wood ; and 
for winter use, no way inferior to those constructed of more durable mate- 
rials. The cross-pieces which form the bottom of the sledge are made of 
bone, wood, or any thing they can muster. Over these is generally laid a 
seal-skin as a flooring, and in the summer-time a pair of deer’s horns are 
attached to the sledge as a back, which in the winter are removed, to enable 
them when stopping to turn the sledge up, so as to prevent the dogs running 
away with it. The whole is secured by lashings of thong, giving it a degree 
of strength combined with flexibility which perhaps no other mode of fasten- 
ing could effect. 

The dogs of the Esquimaux, of which these people possessed above a 
hundred, have been so often described that there may seem little left to 
add respecting their external appearance, habits, and use. Our visits to 
Igloolik having, however, made us acquainted with some not hitherto 
described, I shall here offer a further account of these invaluable animals, 
In the form of their bodies, their short pricked ears, thick furry coat, 
and bushy tail, they so nearly resemble the wolf of these regions that, 
when of a light or brindled colour, they may easily at a little distance be 
mistaken for that animal, To an eye accustomed to both, however, a differ- 
ence is perceptible in the wolf’s always keeping his head down, and his tail 

3U2 


516 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


between his legs in running, whereas the dogs almost always carry their 
tails handsomely curled over the back. A difference less distinguishable, 
when the animals are apart, is the superior size and more muscular make of 
the wild animal, especially about the breast and legs. The wolf is also, in 
general, full two inches taller than any Esquimaux dog we have seen; but 
those met with in 1818, in the latitude of 76°, appear to come nearest to it 
in that respect. The tallest dog at Igloolik stood two feet one inch from 
the ground, measured at the withers; the average height was about two 
inches less than this. 

The colour of the dogs varies from a white, through brindled, to black 
and white, or almost entirely black. Some are also of a reddish or ferrugi- 
nous colour, and others have a brownish-red tinge on their legs, the rest of 
their bodies being of a darker colour, and these last were observed to be 
generally the best dogs. Their hair in the winter is from three to four inches 
long ; but besides this, nature furnishes them during this rigorous season, 
with a thick under coating of close soft wool, which they begin to cast in 
the spring. While thus provided, they are able to withstand the most incle- 
ment weather without suffering from the cold, and at whatever temperature 
the atmosphere may he they require nothing but a shelter from the wind to 
make them comfortable, and even this they do not always obtain. They are 
also wonderfully enabled to endure the cold even on those parts of the body 
which are not thus protected, for we have seen a young puppy siceping, 
with its bare paw laid on an ice-anchor, with the thermometer at — 30°, 
which with one of our dogs would have produced immediate and intense 
pain, if not subsequent mortification. They never bark, but have a long 
melancholy how! like that of the wolf, and this they will sometimes perform 
in concert for a minute or two together. They are besides always snarling 
and fighting among one another, by which several of them are gencrally 
lame. When much caressed and well-fed, they become quite familiar and 
domestic ; but this mode of treatment does not improve their qualities as 
animals of draught. Being desirous of ascertaining whether these dogs are 
. wolves in a state of domestication, a question which we understood to have 
been the subject of some speculation, Mr. Skeoch at my request made a ske- 
leton of each, when the number of all the vertebre was found to be the same 
in both*, and to correspond with the well-known anatomy of the wolf, 


When drawing a sledge, the dogs have a simple harness (annoo) of deer or 


* Cervical, 7; dorsal, 18; lumbar, 7; sacral, 3; caudal, 19. 


seal-sk 
legs, w 
trace. 


to regu 
particu 
allowed 
turning 
is made 
dency g 
nearest 
the fore 
so that 
of each 
his feet 
of whic 
inches, 
thong n¢ 
spring, ¢ 
is chewe 
acquire { 
lash of 1 
with wh 
Though 
without 
detrimer 
that is st 
next nei 
gency, 2 
then con 
lerated ; 
traces of 
cach side 
inconven 
besides t 
constant 
from side 
traces aly 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 517 


seal-skin, going round the neck by one bight, and another for each of the fore- 
legs, with a single thong leading over the back and attached to the sledge as a 
trace. Though they appear at first sight to be huddled together without regard 
to regularity, there is, in fact, considerable attention paid to their arrangement, 
particularly in the selection of a dog of peculiar spirit and sagacity, who is 
allowed, by a longer trace, to precede the rest as leader, and to whom, in 
turning to the right or left, the driver usually addresses himself. This choice 
is made without regard to age or sex, and the rest of the dogs take prece- 
dency according to their training or sagacity, the least effective being put 
nearest the sledge. The leader is usually from eighteen to twenty feet from 
the fore part of the sledge, and the hindmost dog about half that distance, 
so that when ten or twelve are running together, several are nearly abreast 
of each other. The driver sits quite low on the fore-part of the sledge, with 
his feet overhanging the snow on one side, and having in his hand a whip (6.) 
of which the handle, made either of wood, bone, or whalebone, is eighteen 
inches, and the lash more than as many feet in length. The part of the 
thong next the handle is platted a little way down to stiffen it and give ita 
spring, on which much of its use depends ; and that which composes the lash 
is chewed by the women to make it flexible in frosty weather. The men 
acquire from their youth considerable expertness in the use of this whip, the 
lash of which is left to trail along the ground by the side of the sledge, and 
with which they can inflict a very severe blow on any dog at pleasure. 
Though the dogs are kept in training entirely by fear of the whip, and indeed 
without it would soon have their own way, its immediate effect.is always 
detrimental to the draught of the sledge ; for not only does the individual 
that is struck draw back and slacken his trace, but generally turns upon his 
next neighbour, and this passing on to the next occasions a general diver- 
gency, accompanied by the usual yelping and shewing of teeth. The dogs 
then come together again by degrees, and the draught of the sledge is acce- 
lerated ; but even at the best of times, by this rude mode of draught the 
traces of one-third of the dogs form an angle of thirty or forty degrees on 
cach side of the direction in which the sledge is advancing. Another great 
inconvenience attending the Esquimaux method of putting the dogs to, 
besides that of not employing their strength to the best advantage, is the 
constant entanglement of the traces by the dogs repeatedly doubling under 
from side-to side to avoid the whip, so that, after running a few miles, the 
traces always require to be taken off and cleared. 


1 
| 
| 
| 
uth 
| 
| 
{ 
| 


$18 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


In directing the sledge the whip acts no very essential part, the driver for 
this purpose using certain words, as the carters do with us. to make the dogs 
turn more to the right or left. To these a good leader attends with admira- 
ble precision, especially if his own name be repeated at the same time, look- 
ing behind over his shoulder with great earnestness, as if listening to the 
directions of the driver. On a beaten track, or even where asingle foot or 
sledge-mark is occasionally discernible, there is not the slightest trouble in 
guiding the dogs ; for even in the darkest night and in the heaviest snow- 
drift, there is little or no danger of their losing the road, the leader keeping 
his nose near the ground, and directing the rest with wonderful sagacity. 
Where, however, there is no beaten track, the best driver among them makes 
a terribly circuitous course, as all the Esquimaux reads plainly shew ; these 
generally occupying an extent of six miles, when with a horse and sledge 
the journey would scarcely have amounted to five. On rough ground, as 
among ‘hummocks of ice, the sledge would be frequently overturned or 
altogether stopped if the driver did not repeatedly get off, and by lifting or 
drawing it to one side steer it clear of those accidents. At all times, 
indeed, except on a smooth and well-made road, he is pretty constantly em- 
ployed thus with his feet, which, together with his never-ceasing vocifera- 
tions and frequent use of the whip, renders the driving of one of these 
vehicles by no means a pleasant or easy task. When the driver wishes to 
stop the sledge, he calls out ‘“‘ Wo, woa,” exactly as our carters do, but 
the attention paid to this command depends altogether on his ability to 
enforce it. If the weight is small and the journey homeward, the dogs are 
not to be thus delayed ; the driver is therefore obliged to dig his heels into 
the snow to obstruct their progress ; and having thus succeeded in stopping 
them, he stands up with one leg before the foremost cross-piece of the sledge 
till, by means of laying the whip gently over each dog’s head, he has made 
them all lie down. He then takes care not to quit his position; so that 
should the dogs set off he is thrown upon the sledge, instead of being left 
behind by them. 

With heavy loads the dogs draw best with one of their own people, espe- 
cially a woman, walking a little way a-head ; and in this case they are some- 
times enticed to mend their pace by holding a mitten to the mouth, and then 
making the motion of cutting it with a knife, and throwing it on the snow, when 
the dogs mistaking it for meat, hasten forward to pick it up. The women 
also entice them from the huts in a similar manner, The rate at which they 


travel de 


which t 
and smdq 
“ good § 
weight, 
gether, ¢ 
or sixty 
would b 
weight o 
almost u 
at the ra 
dogs is, 
mode alg 
and to tl 
numbers 
In the 
the dog 
being en 
shoulder 
with a w 
dogs, th 
to preve 
left with 
from hos 
method | 
Prince I 
in the ic 
eye-bolt 
The s¢ 
to accour 
animals. \ 
track of 
gallop, w 
when the 
Esquimat 
when alr 
essential 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 519 


travel depends, of course, on the weight they have to draw and the road on 
which their journey is performed. When the latter is level and very hard 
and smooth, constituting what in other parts of North America is called 
“ good sleighing,” six or seven dogs will draw from eight to ten hundred 
weight, at the rate of seven or eight miles an hour for several hours to- 
gether, and will easily under those circumstances perform a journey of fifty 
or sixty miles a day ; on untrodden snow, five-and-twenty or thirty miles 
would be a good day’s journey. The same number of well-fed dogs, with a 
weight of only five or six hundred pounds (that of the sledge included) are 
almost unmanageable, and will on a smooth road run any way they please 
at the rate often miles an hour. The work performed by a greater number of 
dogs is, however, by no means in proportion to this; owing to the imperfect 
mode already described of employing the strength of these sturdy creatures, 
and to the more frequent snarling and fighting occasioned by an increase of 
numbers. 

In the summer, when the absence of snow precludes the use of sledges, 
the dogs are still made useful on journeys and hunting excursions, by 
being employed tc carry burdens in a kind of saddle-bags laid across their 
shoulders. A stout dog thus accoutred will accompany his master, laden 
with a weight of about twenty to twenty-five pounds. When lIcading the 
dogs, the Esquimaux take a half hitch with the trace round their necks 
to prevent their pulling, and the same plan is followed when a sledge is 
left without a keeper. They are also in the habit of tethering them, when 
from home, by tying up one of the four legs; but a still more effectual 
method is similar to that which we saw employed by the Greenlanders of 
Prince Regent’s Bay, and consists in digging with their spears two holes 
in the ice in an oblique direction and meeting each other, so as to leave an 
eye-bolt to which the dogs are fastened. 

The scent of the Esquimaux dogs is excellent ; and this property is turned 
toaccount by their masters in finding the seal holes, which these invaluable 
animals will discover entirely by the smell at a very great distance. The 
track of a single deer upon the snow will in like manner set them off at a full 
gallop, when. travelling, at least a quarter of a mile before they arrive at it, 
when they are with difficulty made to turn in any other direction ; and the 
Esquimaux are accustomed to set them after those animals to hunt them down 
when already wounded with an arrow. In killing bears the dogs act a very 
essential part, and two or three of them when led on by a man will eagerly 


520 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


attack one of those ferocious creatures. An Esquimaux seldom. uses any other 
weapon than his spear and panna in this encounter, for which the readiness of 
the dogs may be implied from the circumstance of the word “ nennook” 
(bear) being often used to encourage them when running in asledge. _In- 
deed the only animal which they are not eager to chase is the wolf, of which 
the greater part of them seem to have an instinctive dread, giving notice at 
night of their approach to the huts by a loud and continued howl. There 
is not one dog in twenty among them that will voluntarily, or indeed without 
a great deal of beating, take the water if they think it is out of their depth, 
and the few that would do so were spoken of as extraordinary exceptions. 
The Esquimaux in general treat their dogs much as an unfeeling master 
does his slaves; that is, they take just as much care of them as their own 
interest is supposed to require. The bitches with young are in the winter 
allowed to occupy apart of their own beds, where they are carefully attended 
and fed by the women, who will even supply the young ones with meat and 
water from their mouths as they do their own children, and not unfre- 
quently also carry them in their hoods to take care of them. It is probably 
on this account that the dogs are always so much attached to the women, 
who can at any time catch them or entice them from the huts, when the 
men fail. Two females that were with young on board the Fury in the 
month of February brought forth six and seven at a litter, and the former 
number were all females. Their feeding which, both in summer and winter, 
principally consists of dow, or the skin and part of the blubber of the walrus, 
is during the latter season very precarious, their masters having then but 
little to spare. They therefore become extremely thin at that time of the 
year, and would scarcely be recognised as the same animals as when regu- 
larly fed in the summer. No wonder therefore that they will eat almost any 
thing however tough or filthy, and that neither whipping nor shouting will 
prevent their turning out of the road, even when going at full speed, to pick 
up whatever they espy. When at the huts they are constantly creeping in 
to pilfer what they can, and half the time of the people sitting there is 
occupied in vociferating their names, and driving them by most unmerciful 
blows out of the apartments. The dogs have no water to drink during the 
. Winter, but lick up some clean snow occasionally as a substitute ; nor indeed 
if water be offered them do they care about it unless it happens to be oily. 
They take great pleasure in rolling in clean snow, especially after or during 
a journey, or when they have been confined in a house during the night. 


‘a 
ia 
ae 
Bi 
: 


Notwit 
their a 
absenc 
The Es 
notice | 
blows. 

whethe 
same as 
tions of 
them. 

valuabl 
toward: 
hands \ 


In tl 
individ 
features 
produce 
The vi 
them to 
of our j 
many i 
appeare 
and this 
have hic 
temptai 
petty th 
male an 

The | 
a suffic 
was hel 
readine! 
the na 
yet wi 
believin 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 521 


Notwithstanding the rough treatment which they receive from their masters 
their attachment to them is very great, and this they display after a short 
absence by jumping upand licking their faces all over with extreme delight. 
The Esquimaux however never caress them, and indeed scarcely ever take any 
notice of them but when they offend, and they are then not sparing in their 
blows. The dogs have all names to which they attend with readiness, 
whether drawing in a sledge or otherwise. Their names are frequently the 
same as those of the people, and in some instances are given after the rela- 
tions of their masters, which seems to be considered an act of kindness among 
them. Upon the whole, notwithstanding the services performed by these 
valuable creatures, I am of opinion that art cannot well have done less 
towards making them useful, and that the same means in almost any other 
hands would be employed to greater advantage. 


In the disposition of these people, there was of course among so many 
individuals considerable variety as to the minute points ; but in the general 
features of their character, which with them are not subject to the changes 
produced by foreign intercourse, one description will nearly apply to all. 
The virtue which, as respected ourselves, we could most have wished 
them to possess is honesty, and the impression derived from the early part 
of our intercourse was certainly in this respect a favourable one. A great 
many instances occurred, some of which have been related, where they 
appeared even scrupulous in returning articles that did not belong to them ; 
and this too when detection of a theft, or at least of the offender, would 
have con next to impossible. As they grew more familiar with us, and the 
temptai.ons became stronger, they gradually relaxed in their honesty, and 
petty thefts were from time to time committed by several individuals both 
male and female among them. 

The bustle which any search for stolen goods occasioned at the huts was 
a sufficient proof of their understanding the estimation in which the crime 
was held by us. Until the affair was cleared up, they would affect great 
readiness to shew every article which they had got from the ships, repeating 
the name of the donor with great warmth as if offended at our suspicions, 
yet with a-half-smile on their countenance. at our supposed credulity in 
believing them, There was indeed at all times some degree of trick and 

3X 


SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


522 


cunning in this shew of openness and candour; and they would at times 
bring back some very trifling article that had been given them tendering 
it as a sort of expiation for the theft of another much more valuable. 
When a search was making they would invent all sorts of lies to screen 
themselves, not caring on whom besides the imputation fell ; and more than 
once, they directed our people to the apartments of others who were inno- 
cent of the offence in question. If they really. knew the offendert hey were 
generally ready enough to inform against him, and this with an air of 
affected secrecy and mysterious importance; and as if the dishonesty of 
another constituted a virtue in themselves, they would repeat this informa- 
tion frequently, perhaps for a month afterwards, setting up their neigh- 
bour’s offence as a foil to their own pretended honesty. 

In appreciating the character of these people for honesty, however, we 
must not fail to make due allowance for the degree of temptation to which 
they were daily exposed, amidst the boundless stores of wealth which 
our ships appeared to them to furnish. To draw a parallel case, we must 
suppose an European of the lower class suffered to roam about amidst 
hoards of gold and silver; for nothing less valuable can be justly compared 
with the wood and iron that every where presented. themselves to their view 
on board the ships. The European and the Esquimaux, who in cases so 
similar, both resist the temptation of stealing, must be considered pretty 
nearly on a par ‘in the scale of honesty ; and judging in this manner, the 
balance might possibly be found in favour of the latter, when compared 
with any similar number of Europeans taken at random from the lower 
class. 

’ In what has been hitherto said, regard has .been had only to their deal- 
ings with us. In their transactions among themselves there is no doubt that, 
éxcept in one or two privileged cases, such as that of destitute widows, the 
strictest honesty prevails, and that as regards the good of their own commu- 
hity they are generally honest people. We have in numberless instances 
sent presents by one to another, and invariably found that they had been 
faithfully delivered. The manner in which their various implements are 
frequently left outside their huts is a proof, indeed, that robbery is searcely 
known among them. It is true that there is not-an article in the possession 
of one of them, of which any of the rest will not readily name. the owner, 
and the detection of a theft would therefore be certain and immediate. 


Cert: 
inste 
mur¢ 
hand 
these 
beyo 
bear: 

In 
and 
in dr 
first 1 
Kabl 
hund 
only: 
also ¢ 
their 
excite 
some 
them 
Capte 
that s 
point 
in anc 
nied | 
the s: 
diatel 
amuse 
truth | 
took 1 
Togol 
all rou 
deceit 

The 
evince 
ships ; 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 523 


Certainty of detection however among:a lawless and ferocious people, 
instead of preventing robbery, would more probably add violence and 
murder to the first crime, and the strongest would ultimately gain the upper 
hand. We cannot therefore but admire the undisturbed security in which 
these people hold. their property, without having recourse to any restraint 
beyond that which is incurred by the tacitly-received law of mutual for- 
bearance. 

In the barter of their various commodities their dealings with us were fair 
and upright, though latterly they were by no means backward or inexpert 
in driving’a bargain. The absurd and childish exchanges* which they at 
first made with our people, induced them subsequently to complain that the 
Kabloonas had stolen their things, though the profit had been eventually a 
hundred-fold in their favour. Many such complaints were made, when the 
only fault in the purchaser had been excessive liberality, and frequently 
also as a retort, by way of warding off the imputation of some dishonesty of 
their own. A trick not uncommon with the women was, to endeavour to 
excite the commiseration, and to tax the bounty of one person by relating 
some cruel theft of this kind, that had, as they said, been practised upon 
them by another. One day, after I had bought a knife of Togolat, she told 
Captain Lyon, in a most piteous tone, that Parree had stolen her last ooloo, 
that she did not know what to do without one, and at length coming to the 
point begged him to give her one. Presently after this, her husband coming 
in and asking for something to eat, she handed him some meat accompa- 
nied by a very fine ooloo. Her son being thus reminded of eating made 
the same request, upon which a second knife was produced and, imme- 
diately after, a third of. the same kind for herself. Captain Lyon, having 
amused himself in watching these proceedings, which so well confirmed the 
truth of the proverb, that certain people ought to have good memories, now 
took the knives, one by one, out of their hands, and holding them up to 
Togolat, asked her if Parree had not stolen her last ooloo. A hearty laugh 
all round was the only notice taken by them of this direct detection of the 
deceit. 

The confidence which they really placed in us was daily and hourly 
evinced by their leaving their fishing gear stuck in the snow all round the 
ships; and not a single instance occurred, to my knowledge, of. any theft 


* Crantz, I. 173. 


524 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


committed on their property. The licking of the articles received from 
us was not so common with them as with Esquimaux: in general, and this 
practice was latterly almost entirely left off by them. 

Among the unfavourable traits in their character must be reckoned an 
extreme disposition to envy, which displayed itself on various occasions 
during our intercourse with them. If we had made any presents in one 
hut, the inmates of the next would not fail to tell us of it, accompanying 
their remarks with some satirical observation, too unequivocally expressed to 
be mistaken, and generally by some stroke of irony * directed against the 
favoured person. If any individual with whom we had been intimate hap- 
pened to be implicated in a theft, the circumstance became a subject of 
satisfaction too manifest to be repressed, and we were told of it with ex- 
pressions of the most triumphant exultation on every occasion. It was 
indeed curious, though ridiculous, to observe that, even among these simple 
people, and in this obscure corner of the globe, that little gossip and scandal 
so commonly practised in small societies among us were very frequently 
displayed. This was especially the case with the women, of whom it was 
not uncommon to see a group sitting in a hut for hours together, each 
relating her quota of information, now and then mimicking the persons 
of whom they spoke, and interlarding their stories with jokes evidently 
at the expense of their absent neighbours, though to their own infinite 
amusement. 

In extenuation, however, of ‘these faults, it must be allowed that we were 
ourselves the exciting cause which called them into action, and without 
which they would be comparatively of rare occurrence among them. Like 
every other child of Adam, they undoubtedly possess their share of the 
seeds of these human frailties; but even in this respect they need not shrink 
from a comparison with ourselves, for who among us can venture to assure 
himself that, if exposed to similar temptations, he would not be found 
wanting ? ‘ 

To another failing, to which they are addicted, the same excuse will not so 
forcibly apply; as in this respect our acquaintance with them naturally fur- 
nished an opportunity for the practice of a virtue, rather than for the deve- 
lopment of its opposite vice. I have already, in the course of the fore- 
going Narrative, hinted at the want of gratitude evinced by these people in 


* Crantz, I. 170. 


their 
whic 
dren 
occas 
like ¢ 
part « 
the si 
as th 
unqu 
dom, 
mighi 
askec 
with 
whicl 
most 

they \ 
they 
it was 
vate 
them 
viour 
such 

receiy 
as in 
would 
trivia 
side, 
for t 
grati 
sents 
my 
croo 
-been 
On 
uneas 
their 
ness 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 525 


their transactions with us. Among themselves, almost the only case in 
which this sentiment can have any field for exertion, is in the conduct of chil- 
dren towards their parents, and in this respect, as I shall presently have 
occasion to notice, their gratitude is by no means conspicuous. Any thing 
like a free gift is very little if at all known among them. If A gives B a 
part of his seal to-day, the latter soon returns an equal quantity when he is 
the successful fisherman. Uncertain as their mode of living is, and dependant 
as they are upon each other’s exertions, this custom is the evident and 
unquestionable interest of all. The regulation does credit to their wis- 
dom, but has nothing to do with their generosity. This being the case, it 
might be supposed that our numerous presents, for which no return was 
asked, would have excited in them something like thankfulness combined 
with admiration ; but this was so little the case, that the coyenna (thanks). 
which did now and then escape them, expressed much less than even the 
most common-place “‘ thank ye” of civilized society. Some exceptions, for 
they were only exceptions and rare ones to this rule, have been mentioned as 
they occurred ; but in general, however considerable the benefit conferred, 
it was forgotten in a day; and this forgetfulness was not unfrequently aggra- 
vated by their giving out that their benefactor had been so.shabby as to make 
them no present at all. Even those individuals who, either from good beha- 
viour or superior intelligence, had been most noticed by us, and particularly 
such as had slept on board the ships, and whether in health or sickness had 
received the most friendly treatment from every body, were in general just 
as indifferent as the rest; and I do not believe that any one amongst them 
would have gone half a mile out of his road, or have sacrificed the most 
trivial self-gratification to have served us. Though the riches lay on our 
side, they possessed abundant means of making some nominal return which, 
for the sake of the principle that prompted it, would of course have been 
gratifying to us. Okotook and Iligliuk, whom I had most loaded with pre- 
sents, and who had never offered me a single free gift in return, .put into 
my hand, at the time of their first removal from Winter-Island, a dirty 
crooked model of a spear, so shabbily constructed that it had probably 
‘been already refused as an article of barter by many of the ship’s company. 
On my accepting this, from an unwillingness to affront. them, they were 
uneasy and dissatisfied till I had given them something in return, though 
their hands were full of the presents which I had just made them. Selfish- 
ness is in fact almost without exception their universal characteristic, and 


526 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


the main-spring of all their actions, and that too of a kind the most direct 
and unamiable that can well be imagined. 

In the few opportunities we had of putting their hospitality to the test, 
we had every reason to be pleased with them. Both as to food and accom- 
modation the best they had were always at our service ; and their attention, 
both in kind and degree, was every thing that hospitality and even good 
breeding could dictate. The kindly offices of drying and mending our 
clothes, cooking our provision and thawing snow for our drink, were per- 
formed by the women with an obliging cheerfulness which we shall not 
easily forget, and which commanded its due share of our admiration and 
esteem. While thus their guest, I have passed an evening not only with 
comfort, but with extreine gratification ; for with the women working and 
singing, their husbands quietly mending their lines, the children playing 
before the door, and the pot boiling over the blaze of a cheerful lamp, one 
might well forget for the time that an Esquimaux hut was the scene of this 
domestic comfort and tranquillity ; and I can safely affirm with Cartwright * 
that, while thus lodged beneath their roof, I know no people whom I would 
more confidently trust as respects either my person or my property, than 
the Esquimaux. It is painful, and may perhaps be considered invidious 
after this, to inquire how far their hospitality would in all probability be 
extended if interest were wholly separated from its practice, and a stranger 
were destitute and unlikely soon to repay them. But truth obliges me to 
confess that, from the extreme selfishness of their general conduct, as well 
as from their behaviour in some instances to the destitute of their own tribe, 
I should be sorry to lie under the necessity of thus drawing very largely on 
their bounty. | 

The estimation in which women are held among these people is, I 
think, somewhat greater than is usual in savage life. In their general em- 
ployments they are by no means the drudges that the wives of the Green- 
landers ¢ are said to be ; being occupied only in those cares which may’ pro- 
perly be called domestic, and as such are considered the peculiar business of 
the women among the lower classes in civilized society. The wife of one of 
these people, for instance, makes and attends the fire, cooks the victuals, 
looks after the children, and is sempstress to her whole family ; while her 
husband is labouring abroad for their subsistence. In this respect it is not 


* Cartwright’s Labrador, III, 282, + Crantz, I. 164, 165. 


even 
in trut 
it were 
of the 
an end 
tasks a 
and ch 
doubte 
howev 
known 
walk ty 
a little 
have re 
little o 
are fer 
are so 
under 
som eti 
them. 
The 
had bo 
family 
numbe 
their cl 
occasia 
at abou 
instanc 
ceeds ¢ 
one of 
spect, f 
was pu 
woman 
ployed 
feedin; 


by mas 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 527 


even necessary to except their task of cutting up the small seals, which is 
in truth one of the greatest luxuries and privileges they enjoy ; and even if 
it were esteemed a labour, it could scarcely be considered equivalent to that 
of the women in many of our own fishing-towns, where the men’s business is at 
an end the moment the boat touches the beach. The most laborious of their 
tasks occuts perhaps in making their various journcys, when all their goods 
and chattels are to be removed at once, and when each individual must un- 
doubtedly perform a full share of the general labour. The women are 
however good walkers and not easily fatigued’; for we have several times 
known a young woman of two and twenty, with a child in her hood, 
walk twelve miles to the ships and back again the same day, for the sake of 
a little bread-dust and a tin canister. When stationary in the winter, they 
have really almost a sinecure of it, sitting quictly in their huts, and having 
little or no employment for the greater part of the day. In short, there 
are few, if any people, in this state of society among whom the women 
are so well off. They always sit upon the beds with their legs doubled 
under them*, and are uneasy in the posture usual with us. The men 
sometimes sit as we do, but more generally with their legs crossed before 
them. 

The women do not appear to be in general very prolific. Illumea indeed 
had borne seven children, but no second instance of an equal. number in one 
family afterwards came to our knowledge ; three or four is about the usual 
number. They are, according to their own account, in the habit of suckling 
their children to the age of three years; but we have seen a child of five 
occasionally at the breast, though they are dismissed from the mother’s hood 
at about the former age. The time of weaning them must of course in some 
instances depend on the mother’s again becoming pregnant, and if this suc- 
ceeds quickly it must, as Crantz relates of the Greenlanders +, go hard with 
one of the infants. Nature, however, scems to be kind to themin this re- 
spect, for we did not witness one instance, nor hear of any, in which a woman 
was put to this inconvenience and distress. It is not uncommon to see one 
woman suckling the child of another, while the latter happens to be em- 
ployed in her other domestic occupations. They are in the habit also of 
feeding their younger children from their own mouths, softening the food 
by mastication, and. then turning their heads round so that the infant in the 


* Crantz, I. 140, + Ibid, 1, 162, 


528 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


hood may put its lips to theirs, The chill is taken from water for them in 
the same manner, and some fathers are very fond of taking their children on 
their knees and thus feeding them. The women are more desirous of hay- 
ing sons than daughters, as onthe former must principally depend their 
support in old age. 

Twelve of the men had each two wives, and some of the younger ones had 
also two betrothed ; two instances occurred of the father and son being 
married to sisters. The custom of betrothing children in their infancy is 
commonly practised here, in which respect these people differ from the 
natives of Greenland, where it is comparatively rare*. A daughter of 
Arnaneelia, between two and three years old, had long been thus contracted 
to Okotvok’s son, a hero of six or seven, and the latter used to run about the 
hut calling his intended by the familiar appellation of Noollée-a (wife), to the 
great amusement of the parents. When a man has two wives there is gene- 
rally a difference of five or six years in their ages. The senior takes her 
station next the principal fire, which comes entirely under her manage- 
ment; and she is certainly considered in some respects superior to the 
other, though they usually live together in the utmost harmony. The men 
sometimes repudiate their wives without ceremony, in case of real or 
supposed bad behaviour as in Greenland, but this does not often 
occur. There was a considerable disparity of age between many of the 
men and their wives, the husband being sometimes the oldest by twenty 
years or more, and this also when he had never married any former 
wife. We knew no instance in which the number of 4 man’s wives ex- 
ceeded two, and indeed we had every reason to believe that the practice 
is never admitted among them. We met. with a singular instance of two 
men having exchanged wives, in consequence merely of one of the latter 
being pregnant at the time when her husband was about to undertake a long 
journey. 

The authority of the husband seems to be sufficiently absolute, depending 
nevertheless in great measure on the dispositions of the respective parties. 
lligliuk was one of those women who seem formed to manage their husbands ; 
and we one day saw her take Okotook to task ina very masterly style, for 
having bartered away a good jacket for an old useless pistol, without powder 
or shot. He attempted at first to bluster in his turn, and with most women 


* Crantz, I, 159. + Ibid. 160. 


wou 
she : 
canc¢ 
gene 
of st 
sum 
extr 
his » 
take: 
expe 
diffe 
thin. 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 529 


would probably have gained his point. But with Iligliuk this would not do ; 
she saw at once the absurdity of his bargain, and insisted on his immediately 
cancelling it, which was accordingly done and no more said about it. In 
general indced the husband maintains his authority, and in several instances 
of supposed bad behaviour in a wife, we saw obedience enforced in a pretty 
summary manner. It is very rare, however, to see them proceed to this 
extremity ; and the utmost extent of a husband’s want of tenderness towards 
his wife consists in general in making her walk or lead the dogs, while he 
takes his own seat in the sledge and rides in comfort. Widows, as might be 
expected, are not so well off as those whose husbands are living, and this 
difference is especially apparent in their clothes which are usually very dirty, 
thin, and ragged ; when indeed they happen to have no near relatives their 
fate, as we have already seen, is still worse than this. 

I fear we cannot give a very favourable account of the chastity of the 
women, nor of the delicacy of their husbands in this respect. As for the 
latter, it was not uncommon for them to offer their wives as freely for sale 
as a knife or a jacket. Some of the young men informed us that, when two 
of them were absent together on a sealing excursion, they often exchanged 
wives for the time, asa matter of friendly convenience ; and indeed, without 
mentioning any other instances of this nature, it may safely be affirmed, that 
in no country is prostitution carried to greater lengths than among these 
people. The. behaviour of most of the women, when their husbands were 
absent from the huts, plainly evinced their indifference towards them, and 
their utter disregard of connubial fidelity. The departure of the men was 
usually the signal for throwing aside restraint, which was invariably resumed 
on their return. For this event they take care to be prepared by the report 
of the children, one of whom is usually posted on the outside for the purpose 
of giving due notice. . 

The affection of parents for their children was frequently displayed by 
these people, not only in the mere passive indulgence, and abstinence from 
corporal punishment, for which Esquimaux have before been remarked, but 
by a thousand playful endearnents also, such as parents and nurses practise 
in our own country. Nothing indeed can well exceed the kindness with 
which they treat their children ; and this trait in their character deserves to 
be the more insisted on, because it is in’ reality the only very amiable one 
which they possess. It must be confessed indeed, that the gentleness and 


docility of the children are such as to occasion their parents little trouble, and 
8X 


530 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


‘to render severity towards them quite unnecessary. Even from their earliest 
infancy, they possess that quiet disposition, gentleness of demeanour, and 
‘uncommon evenness of temper, for which in more mature age they are for 
the most part distinguished. Disobedience is scarcely ever known, a word 
or even a look from a parent is enough ; and I never saw a single instance 
‘of that frowardness and disposition to mischief, which, with our youth, so 
‘often requires the whole attention of a parent to watch over and to correct. 
They never cry from trifling accidents, and sometimes not even from very 
‘severe hurts, at which an English child would sob for an hour. It is indeed 
‘astonishing to see the indifference with which, even as tender infants, they 
‘bear the numerous blows they accidentally receive, when carried at their 
mothers’ backs. 

They are just as fond of play as any other young people and of the same 
kind ; only that while an English child draws a cart of wood, an Esquimaux 
‘of the same age has a sledge of whalebone ; and for the superb baby-house 
of the former, the latter builds a miniature hut of snow, and begs a lighted 
‘wick from her mother’s lamp to illuminate the little dwelling. Their parents 
make for them, as dolls, little figures of men and women, habited in the true 
Esquimaux costume, as well as a variety of other toys, many of them having 
some reference to their future occupations in life, such as canoes, spears, 
and bows and arrows. The drum or tambourine mentioned by Crantz* is 
common among them, and used not only by the children, but by the 
grown-up people at some of their games. They sometimes serrate the 
edges of two strips of whalebone and whirl them round their heads, just as 
boys do in England to make the same peculiar humming sound. They will 
dispose one piece of wood on another, as an axis, in sucha manner that 
the wind turns it round like the arms of a wind-mill; and so of many other 
toys of the same simple kind. These are the distinct property of the children, 
who will sometimes sell them while their parents look on, without interfering 
or expecting to be consulted. 

When not more than eight years old, the boys are taken by their fathers on 
their sealing excursions, where they begin to learn their future business; and 
even at that early age, they are occasionally intrusted to bring home a sledge 
and dogs from a distance of'several miles over the ice. At the age of eleven 
we sce a boy with his water-tight boots and mocassins, a spear in his hand, 


* Crantz, I. 176. 


SS SSS 


Se gee 


i, 


a) ae 


and as 
under 
in value 
that the 
ration | 
were n 
attata ( 
ship, I 
seemed 
one of 
that the 
own, 
The 
people, 
spect to 
usually 
tion or 
Esquim 
but littl 
origin e 
subsiste 
excepti 
the sup) 
another 
this is d 
with hi 
ignoran 
parents 
willing 
imputin, 
which | 
there w 
ration it 
patible : 
reason t 
gested | 
by the 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 531 


and a small coil of line at his back, accompanying the men to the fishery,. 


under every circumstance; and from this time his services daily increase 
in value to the whole tribe. On our first intercourse with them we supposed, 
that they would not unwillingly have parted with their children, in conside- 
ration of some valuable present, but in this we afterwards found that we 
were much mistaken. Happening one day to call myself Toolooak’s 
attata (father,) and pretend that he was to remain with me on board the 
ship, I received from the old man, his father, no other answer than what 
seemed to be very strongly and even satirically implied, by his taking 
one of our gentlemen by the arm and calling him fis son; thus intimating 
that the adoption which he proposed’ was as feasible and as natural as my 
own. 

The custom of adoption is carried to very great lengths among these 
people, and served to explain to us several apparent inconsistencies with re- 
spect to their relationships. The adoption of a child in civilized countries has 
usually for its motive either a tenderness for the object itself, or some affec- 
tion or pity for its deceased, helpless, or unknown parents. Among the 
Esquimaux, however, with whom the two first of these causes would prove 
but little excitement, and the last can have no place, the custom owes its 
origin entirely to the obvious advantage of thus providing for a man’s own 
subsistence in advanced life’; and it is consequently confined almost without 
exception to the adoption of sons, who can alone contribute materially to 
the support of an aged and infirm parent. When a man adopts the son of 
another as his own, he is said to “ tego,” or take him ; ‘and at whatever age 
this is done, (though it generally happens in infancy,) the child then lives 
with his new parents, calls them father and mother, is sometimes even 
ignorant of any such transfer having been made, especially if his real 
parents should be dead; and whether he knows it or not, is not always 
willing to acknowledge any but those with whom he lives. Without 
imputing much to the natural affection of these people for their offspring, 
which like their other passions is certainly not remarkable for its strength, 
there would seem, on the score of disinterestedness, a degree of conside- 
ration in a man’s thus giving his son to another, which is scarcely com- 
patible with the general selfishness of the Esquimaux character ; but there is 
reason to suppose that the expediency of this measure is sometimes sug: 
gested by a deficiency of the mother’s milk, and not unfrequently perhaps 
by the premature death of the real parent. The agreement seems to be 

3Y¥2 


532 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


always made between’ the fathers, and to differ in no respect from the 
transfer of other property, except that none can equal in value the pro- 
perty thus disposed of. The good sense, good fortune, or extensive claims 
of some individuals were particularly apparent in this way, from the num- 
ber of sons they had adopted. Toolemak, deriving perhaps some advan- 
tage from his qualifications as Angetkook, had taken care to negotiate for 
the adoption of some of the finest male children of the tribe ; a provision 
which now appeared the more necessary from his having lost four children 
of his own,’ besides Noogloo, who was one of his tego’d sons. In one of the 
two instances that came to our knowledge of the adoption of a female child, 
both its own parents were still living, nor could we ascertain the motive for 
this deviation from the more general custom. 

In their behaviour to old people, whose age or infirmities render them use- 
less and therefore burdensome to the community, the Esquimaux betray a 
degree of insensibility bordering on inhumanity, and ill-repaying the kind- 
ness of an indulgent parent. The old man Hikkeiera, who was very ill during 
the winter, used to lie day after day little regarded by his wife, son, daugh- 
ter, and other relatives, except that his wretched state constituted, as they 
-vell knew, a forcible claim upon our charity ; and, with this view, it was sure 
to excite a whine of sympathy and commiseration' whenever we visited or 
spoke of him. When, however, a journey of ten miles was to be performed 
over the ice, they left him to find his way with a stick in the best manner he 
could, while the young and robust ones were many of them drawn on sledges. 
There is indeed no doubt that, had their necessities or mode of life required 
a longer journey than he could thus have accomplished, they would have 
pushed on like the Indians, and left a fellow-creature to perish. It was 
certainly considered incumbent on his son to support him, and he was. for- 
tunate in that son’s being a very good man; but a few more such journeys to 
a man of seventy would not impose this incumbrance upon him much longer. 
Illumea, the mother of several grown-up children, lived also in the same 
apartment with her youngest son, and in the same hut with her other rela- 
tions, She did not however interfere, as in Greenland *, with the management 
of her son’s domestic concerns, though his wife was half an idiot. She was 
always badly clothed, and even in the midst of plenty not particularly well- 
fed, receiving every thing more as an act of charity than otherwise ; and 


* Crantz, I, 164, 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 533 


she will probably be less and less attended to, in proportion as she stands 
more in need of assistance. 

The different families appear always to live on good terms with each other, 
though each preserves its own habitation and property as distinct and inde- 
pendent as any housekeeper in England. The persons living under one 
roof, who are generally closely related, maintain a degree of harmony 
among themselves which is scarcely ever disturbed. The more turbulent 
passions which, when unrestrained by religious principle or unchecked by 
the dread of human punishment, usually create so much havoc in the world, 
seem to be very seldom excited in the breasts of these people, which ren- 
ders personal violence or immoderate anger extremely rare among them ; 
and one may sit in a hut for a whole day, and never witness an angry word 
or look except in driving out the dogs.. If they take an offence, it is more 
common for them to shew it by the more quiet. method of. sulkiness, and 
this they now and then tried us a matter of experiment with us. Okotook, who 
was often in this humour, once displayed it to some of our gentlemen in his 
own hut, by turning his back and frequently repeating the expression “‘ good- 
bye,” as a broad hint to them to go away.. Toolooak was also a little 
given to this mood, but never retained it long, and there was no malice: 
mixed with his displeasure. One evening that he slept on board the Fury, 
he either offended Mr. Skeoch, or thought that he had done so, by this 
kind of humour; at all events they parted for the night without any formal. 
reconciliation. The next morning Mr. Skeoch was awakened at an unusu-: 
ally early hour, by Toolooak’s entering his cabin and. taking hold of his hand. 
to shake it, by way of making up the supposed quarrel.. On a disposition 
thus naturally charitable; what might not Christian education and Christian’ 
principles effect! Where a joke is evidently intended, I never knew people 
more ready to join in it than these are. If ridiculed for any particularity 
of manner, figure, or countenance, they are sure not to be long behind-hand 
in returning it, and that very often withinterest. If we were the aggressors 
in this way, some ironical observation respecting the Kabloonas was frequently ' 
the consequence; and no small portion of wit as well as ee was at times 
mixed with their raillery. 

In point of intellect as well as disposition great variety was of course 
perceptible among the different individuals of this tribe ; but few of them: 
were wanting in that respect. Some indeed possessed a degree of natural 
quickness and intelligence which perhaps could hardly be surpassed in the 


534 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


natives of any country.  Iligliuk, though one of the least amiable, was 
particularly thus gifted. When she really wished to develop our meaning, 
she would desire her husband and all the rest to hold their tongues, and 
would generally make it out while they were puzzling their heads to 
no purpose. In returning her answers the very expression of her coun- 
tenance, though one of the plainest among them, was almost of itself 
sufficient to convey her meaning; and there was, in these cases, a pe- 
culiar decisive energy in her manner of speaking which was extremely 
interesting. This woman would indeed have easily learned any thing to 
which she chose to direct her attention; and had her lot been cast in a 
civilized country instead of this dreary region, which serves alike to “ freeze 
the genial current of the soul” and body, she would probably have been a very 
clever person. For want of a sufficient object, however, neither she nor 
any of her companions ever learned a dozen words of English, except our 
names, with which it was their interest to be familiar, and which, long 
before we left them any child could repeat, though in their own style of 
pronunciation. 

Besides the natural authority of parents and husbands, these people 
appear to admit no kind of superiority among one another, except a certain 
degree of superstitious reverence for their angetkooks, and their tacitly fol- 
lowing the counsel or steps of the most active seal-catcher on their hunting 
excursions. The word nallegak, used in Greenland to express ‘ master,” 
and “ lord” in the Esquimaux translations of the Scriptures, they were not 
acquainted with. One of the young men at Winter Island appeared to be 
considered somewhat in the light of a servant to Okotook, living with the 
latter and quietly allowing him to take possession of all the most valuable 
presents which he received from us. Being a sociable people, they unite in 
considerable numbers to form a settlement for the winter; but on the return 
of spring they again separate into several parties, each appearing to choose his 
own route without regard to that of the rest, but all making their arrange- 
ments without the slightest disagreement or difference of opinion that we 
could ever discover. In all their movements they seem to be actuated by 
one simultaneous feeling that is truly admirable. 

Superior as our arts, contrivances, and materials must unquestionably have 
appeared to them, and eager as they were to profit by this superiority, yet, 
contradictory as it may seem, they certainly looked upon us:in many respects 
with profound contempt ; maintaining that idea of self-sufficiency which lias 


..° OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 535 


induced them, in corhmnon with the rest of their nation, to call themselves, by 
way of distinction Innice, or mankind. One day for instance, in securing some 
of the geer of a sledge, Okotook broke a part of it composed of a piece of 
our white line, and I shall never forget the contemptuous sneer with which 
he muttered in soliloquy the word “ Kabloona!” in token of the inferiority 
of our materials to his own. It is happy, perhaps, when people possessing 
so few of the good things of this life can be thus contented with the little 
allotted them. 

The men, though low in stature, are not wanting in muscular strength 
in proportion to their size, or in activity and hardiness. They are good 
and even quick walkers, and occasionally bear much bodily fatigue, wet» 
and cold, without appearing to suffer by it, much less to complain of it. 
Whatever labour they have gone through and with whatever success in pro- 
curing game, no individual ever seems to arrogate to himself the credit of 
having done more than his neighbour for the general good. Nor do I con- 
ceive there is reason to doubt their personal courage, though they are too 
good-natured often to excite others to put that quality to the test. Itis true 
they will recoil with horror at the tale of an Indian massacre, and probably 
cannot conceive what should induce one set of men deliberately and with- 
out provocation to murder another. War is not their trade ; ferocity forms 
no part of the disposition of the Esquimaux. Whatever manly qualities they 
possess are exercised in a different way, and put to a far more worthy pur- 
pose. They are fishermen and not warriors ; but I cannot call that man a 
coward who, at the age of one and twenty, will attack a polar bear single- 
handed, or fearlessly commit himself to floating masses of ice which the next 
puff of wind may drift for ever from the shore. 

If in short they are deficient in some of the higher virtues, as they are 
called, of savage life, they are certainly free also from some of its blackest 
vices ; and their want of brilliant q’ alities is fully compensated by those 
which, while they dazzle less, do more service to society and more honour 
to human nature. If, for instance, they have not the magnanimity which 
would enable them to endure without a murmur the most excruciating tor- 
ture, rieither have they the ferocious cruelty that incites a man to inflict 
that torture on a helpless fellow-creature. If their gratitude for favours be 
not lively nor lasting, neither is their resentment of injuries implacable nor 
their hatred deadly. I do not say there are not exceptions to this rule, 
though we have never witnessed any, but it is assurediy not their gencral 
character. 


SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


536 


When viewed more nearly in their domestic relations, the comparison will 
I believe, be still more in their favour, It is here as a social being, asa 
husband and the father of a family, promoting within his own little sphere 
the benefit of that community in which Providence has cast his lot, that the 
moral character of a savage is truly to be sought ; and who can turn without 
horror from the Esquimaux, peaceably seated after a day of honest labour 
with his wife and children in their snow-built hut, to the self-willed and 
vindictive Indian, wantonly plunging his dagger into the bosom of the help- 
less woman, whom nature bids him cherish and protect ! 

Of the few arts possessed by this simple people some account has already 
been given in the description of their various implements. As mechanics 
they have little to boast, when compared with other savages lying under equal 
disadvantages as to scantiness of tools and materials. As carpenters they can 
scarf two pieces of wood together, secure them with pins of whalebone 
or ivory, fashion the timbers of a canoe, shoe a paddle, and rivet a scrap of 
iron into a spear or arrow head. Their principal tool is the knife (panna,) and 
considering the excellence of a great number which they possessed previous 
to our intercourse with them, the work they do is remarkably coarse and 
clumsy. Their very manner of holding and handling a knife is the most 
awkward that can be imagined. For the purpose of boring holes they have 
a drill and bow so exactly like our own that they need no further description, 
except that the end of the drill-handle, which our artists place against their 
breasts, is rested by these people against a piece of wood or bone held in their 
mouths, and having a cavity fitted to receive it. With the use of the saw 
they were well acquainted, but had nothing of this kind in their possession 
better than a notched piece of iron. One or two small European axes were 
lashed to handles in a contrary direction to ours, that is, to be used like an 
adze (3,) a form which, according to the observation of a traveller* well 
qualified to judge, savages in general prefer. It was said that these people 
steamed or boiled wood, in order to bend it for fashioning the timbers of their 
canoes. As fishermen or seamen they can put on a woolding or seizing with 
sufficient strength and security, and are acquainted with some of. the most 
simple and serviceable knots in use among us. In all the arts, however, 
practised by the men it is observable that the ingenuity lies in the principle, 
not in the execution. The experience of ages has led them to adopt the 


* Ledyard. Proceedings of the African Association, Vol. i, p. 80, 


most 
furthe 
neatn 
In : 
terity 
ness, | 
perfor 
ofa t 
consis 
ends 1 
in and 
and si 
finger, 
other 
the rei 
low-pi 
accord 
terial. 
little 
the cl 
the po 
the bo 
They § 
and s 
efficac 
one pa 
cutting 
tern, 
The s 
while 
and so 
ticular 
shoes, 
ther, 2 
materi 
wome 
render 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 537 


most efficacious methods, but their practice as handicrafts has gone no 
further than absolute necessity requires; they bestow little labour upon 
neatness or ornament. 
In some of the few arts practised by the women there is much more dex- 
terity displayed, particularly in that important branch of a housewife’s busi- 
ness, sewing, which even with their own clumsy needles of bone (11.) they 
perform with extraordinary neatness. They had however several steel needles 
of a three-cornered shape, which they kept in a very convenient case (25.) 
consisting of a strip of leather passed through a hollow bone and having its 
ends remaining out, so that the needles which are stuck into it may be drawn 
in and out at pleasure. These cases were sometimes ornamented by cutting; 
and several thimbles of leather, one of which in sewing is worn on the first 
finger, are usually attached to it, together with a bunch of narrow spoons and 
other small articles liable to be lost. The thread they use is the sinew of 
the rein-deer (tooktoo ¢walloo,) or, when they cannot procure this, the swal- 
low-pipe of the neitick. This may be split into threads of different sizes, 
according to the nature of their work, and is certainly a most admirable ma- 
terial. This, together with any other articles of a similar kind, they keep in 
little bags, which are sometimes made of the skin of birds’ feet, disposed with 
the claws downwards in a very neat and tasteful manner. (23.) In sewing, 
the point of the needle is entered and drawn through in a direction towards 
the bociy, end not from it or towards one side as with our sempstresses, 
They sew the deer-skins with a ‘“ round seam,” and the water-tight boots 
and shoes are “stitched.” The latter is performed in a very adroit and 
efficacious manner, by putting the needle only half through the substance of 
one part of the seal-skin, so as to leave no hole for admitting the water. In 
cutting out the clothes the women do it after one regular and uniform pat- 
tern, which probably descends unaltered from generation to generation, 
The skin of the deer’s head is always made to form the apex of the hood, 
while that of the neck and shoulders comes down the back of the jacket; 
and so of every other part of the animal which is appropriated to its pav- 
ticular portion of the dress. To soften the seal-skins of which the boots, 
shoes, and mittens are made, the women chew them for an hour or two toge- 
ther, and the young girls are often seen employed in thus preparing the 
materials for their mothers. The covering of the canoes is a part of the 
women’s business, in which good workmanship is especially necessary to 
render the whole smooth and water-tight. The skins, which are those of 
32 


538 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


the nettick only, are prepared by scraping off the hair and the fleshy parts 
with an oolov, and stretching them out tight on a frame, in which state they 
are left over the lamps or in the sun for several days to dry ; and after this they 
are well chewed by the women to make them fit for working. The dressing 
of leather and of skins in the hair, is an art which the women have brought 
to no inconsiderable degree of perfection. They perform this by first 
cleansing the skin from as much of the fat and fleshy matter as the ooloo 
will take off, and then rubbing it hard for several hours with a blunt scraper, 
called siakoot, so as nearly to dry it. It is then put into a vessel containing 
urine and left to steep a couple of days, after which a drying completes the 
process. Skins dressed in the hair are however not always thus steeped ; 
the women, instead of this, chewing them for hours together till they are 
quite soft and clean. Some of the leather thus dressed looked nearly as 
well as ours, and the hair was as firmly fixed to the pelt, but there was in 
this respect a very great difference, according to the art or attention of the 
housewife. Dyeing is an art wholly unknown to them. The women are 
very expert at platting, which is usually done with three threads of sinew; 
if greater strength is required, several of these are twisted slackly together 
as in the bow-strings. The quickness with which some of the women plat 
is really surprising ; and it is well that they do so, for the quantity required 
for the bows alone would otherwise occupy half the year in completing it. 
It may be supposed that among so cheerful a people as the Esquimaux there 
are many games or sports practised ; indeed it was rarely that we visited their 
habitations without seeing some engaged in them. One of these our gentle- 
men saw at Winter Island, on an occasion when most of the men were absent 
from the huts on a sealing excursion, and in this Iliglink was the chief per- 
former. Being requested to amuse them in this wa’, she suddenly unbound 
her hair, platted it, tied both ends together to keep it out of her way, and then 
stepping out into the middle of the hut, began to make the most hideous faces 
that can be conceived, by drawing both lips into her mouth, poking forward 
her chin, squinting frightfully, occasionally shutting one eye, and moving her 
head from side to side as if her neck had been dislocated. This exhibition, 
which they call ayokit-tak-poke *, and which is evidently considered an ac- 
complishment that few of them possess in perfection, distorts every feature 


* This name, as well as those of the other games I am now describing ix given in the third 
person singular of the verb used to express the performance. 


in th 
skilfi 
Th 
andr 
dmat 
least 
them 
from 
indee 
her fi 
retail 
laugh 
duce 
word 
as to 
tion. 
great 
time 
Very 
callec 
femal 
heitik: 
agilit} 
and a 
The 
in thi 
their 
once 
ing h 
her v 


a wil 
Th 


wome 


A ci 
hut, 
after 
eyes, 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 539 


in the most horrible manner imaginable, and would, I think, put our most 
skilful horse-collar grinners quite out of countenance. 

The next performance consists in looking steadfastly and gravely forward 
and repeating the words tabak-tabak, héibo-keibo, kébang-é-nu-to-cck, kebangenutoeek, 
dmatima, amatama, inthe order in which they are here placed, but each at 
least four times, and always by a peculiar modulation of the voice speaking 
them in pairs as they are coupled above. The sound is made to proceed 
from the throat in a way much resembling ventriloquism, to which art it is 
indeed an approach, After the last amatama Iligliuk always pointed with 
her finger towards her body, and pronounced the word angetkook, steadily 
retaining her gravity for five or six seconds, and then bursting into a loud 
laugh, in which she was joined by all the rest. The women sometimes pro- 
duce a much more guttural and unnatural sound, repeating principally the 
word ikkerée-ikkeree, coupling them as before, and staring in such a manner 
as to make their eyes appear ready to burst out of their sockets with the exer- 
tion. Two or more of them will sometimes stand up face to face, and with 
great quickness and regularity respond to each other, keeping such exact 
time that the sound appears to come from one throat instead of several. 
Very few of the females are possessed of this accomplishment, which is 
called pitkoo-she-rak-poke, and it is not uncommon to see several of the younger 
females practising it. A third part of the game, distinguished by the word 
keitith-poke, consists only in falling on each knee alternately, a piece of 
agility which they perform with tolerable quickness, considering the bulky 
and awkward nature of their dress. 

The last kind of individual exhibition wasstill performed by Iligliuk, to whom 
in this, as in almost every thing else, the other women tacitly acknowledged 
their inferiority, by quietly giving place to her on every occasion. She now 
once more came forward, and letting her arms hang down loosely and bend- 
ing her body very much forward, shook herself with extreme violence as if 
her whole frame had been strongly convulsed, uttering at the same time, in 
a wild tone of voice, some of the unnatural sounds before-mentioned. 

This being at an end, a newexhibition was commenced in which ten or twelve 
women took a part, and which our gentlemen compared to blind man’s buff. 
A circle being formed, and a boy despatched to look out at the door of the 
hut, Iligliuk, still the principal actress, placed herself in the centre, and 
after making a variety of guttural noises for about half a minute, shut her 
eyes, and ran about till she had taken hold of one of the others, whose 

323 


ne Sct enema Sie atten met 
See a 3 ew fa oT 
== - — x ~ %. 


540 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


business it then became to take her station in the centre, so that almost every 
woman in her turn occupied this post, and in her own peculiar way, either by 
distortion of countenance or other gestures, performed her part in the game, 
This continued three quarters of an hour and, from the precaution of placing 
a look-out who was withdrawn when it was over, as well as from some very 
expressive signs which need not here be mentioned, there is reason to 
believe that it is usually followed by certain indecencies, with which their 
husbands are not to be acquainted. Kaoongut was present indeed on this 
occasion, but his age seemed to render him a privileged person; besides 
which his own wife did not join in the game. 

The most common amusement however, and to which their husbands rn 
no objection, they performed at Winter Island expressly for our gratifica- 
tion. The females, being collected to the number of ten or twelve, stood in 
as large a circle as the hut would admit, with Okotook in the centre. He 
began by a sort of half-howling, half-singing noise, which appeared as if 
designed to call the attention of the women, the latter soon commencing the 
Amna Aya song hereafter described. This they continued without variety, 
remaining quite still while Okotook walked round within the circle ; his body 
was rather bent forward, his eyes sometimes closed, his arms constantly 
moving up and down, and now and then hoarsely vociferating a word or two 
as if to increase the animation of the singers, who, whenever he did this, 
quitted the chorus and rose into the words of the song. At the end of ten 
minutes they all left off at once, and after one minute’s interval commenced 
a second act precisely similar and of equal duration, Okotook continuing to 
invoke their muse as before. A third act, which followed this, varied only 
in his frequently towards the close throwing his feet up before and clapping 
his hands together, by which exertion he was thrown into a violent perspira- 
tion. He then retired, desiring a young man (who as we were informed was 
the only individual of several then present thus qualified) to take his place 
in the centre as master of the ceremonies, when the same antics as before 
were again gone through. After this description it will scarcely be necessary 
to remark that nothing can be poorer in its way than this tedious singing 
recreation, which, as well as every thing in which dancing is concerned, they 
express by the word mdmek-poke. They seem, however, to take great delight 
in it; and even a number of the men as well as all the children crept into 
the hut by degrees to peep at the performance. 

The Esquimaux women and children often amuse themselves with a game 


them, 
minu 
whon 
whicl 
notes 
other 
Th 
the fi 
son, 
are ¢ 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 541 


not unlike our “‘skip-rope.” This is performed by two women holding the 
ends of a line and whirling it regularly round and round, while a third 
jumps over it in the middle according to the following order. She com- 
mences by jumping twice on both feet, then alternately with the right and 
left, and next four times with the fect slipped one behind the other, the rope 
passing once round at each jump. After this she performs a circle on the 
ground, jumping about half-a-dozen times in the course of it, which  ring- 
ing her to her original position, the same thing is repeated as often as it can 
be done without entangling the line. One or two of the women performed 
this with considerable agility and adroitness, considering the clumsiness of 
their boots and jackets, and seemed to pride themselves in some degree on 
the qualification. A second kind of this game consists in two women hold- 
ing a long rope by its ends and whirling it round in such a manner, over the 
heads of two others standing close together near the middle of the bight, 
that each of these shall jump over it alternately. The art therefore,’ which 
is indeed considerable, depends more on those whirling the rope than on the 
jumpers, who are, however, obliged to keep exact time in order to be ready 
for the rope passing under their feet. 

The whole of these people, but especially the women, are fond of music 
both vocal and instrumental. Some of them might be said to be passionately 
so, removing their hair from off their ears and bending their heads forward 
as if to catch the sounds more distinctly, whenever we amused them in this 
manner. - Their own music is entirely vocal, unless indecd the drum or tam- 
bourine before mentioned be considered an exception. 

The voices of the women are soft and feminine, and when singing with 
the men are pitched an octave higher than theirs. They have most of them 
so far good ears, that, in whatever key a song is commenced by one of 
them, the rest will always join in perfect unison. After singing for ten 
minutes the key had usually fallen a full semi-tone. Only two of them, of 
whom Iligluik was one, could catch the tune as pitched by an instrument ; 
which made it difficult with most of them to complete the writing of the 
notes, for if they once left off they were sure to re-commence in some 
other key, though a flute or violin was playing at the time. 

There is not in any of their songs much variety, compass, or melody, In 
the following specimens therefore which, in conjunction with Mr. Hender- 
son, I wrote down from their singing, I can only promise that the notes 
are correctly given, and that I have done my best to put them into the time 


542 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


in which they are sung. Unharmonious as they will appear to musical 
ears, we thought them pleasing when sung in good time by a number of 
female voices. 

The first and much the most common of these is that in which the well 
known Greenland chorus, ‘‘ Amna aya,’’ commences the performance, and 
is introduced between each verse, constituting about five-sixths of the whole 
song. When the words of the song are introduced, the notes rise a little for 
three or four bars, and then relapse again into the same hum-drum chorus as 
before, which to do it justice is well calculated to set the children to sleep. 
The words of the song seem to be as interminable as those of “ Chevy 
Chace ;” for the women will go on singing them for nearly half an hour, 
and then leave off one by one, not with their story but their breath ex- 
hausted. : 


They have a second song, varying from the preceding one very slightly 
in the tune, and accompanied by the seme chorus, but with different 
words. 

The third and last is the most tuneful of any of their songs. The ter- 
mination, which is abrupt and fanciful, is usually accompanied by a peculiar 


motion of the head, and an expression of archness in the countenance 
which cannot be described by words, 


healt 
acqui 
inter 
tunat 
I hex 


ae 
the v 
ous : 
float 
dies 
impr 
proo! 
endu 
and | 
ing 
duce 
wret 
incre 
occu 
notic 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 543 


There is only one yerse to this song, and that, from its commencing with 
the word “ pilletay,” we supposed to be a begging one. Of the words of 
their songs in general, I cannot, from my imperfect knowledge of their lan- 
guage, pretend to speak very accurately. From the occasional introduction 
of the words “ sledge, canoe, spear,” and others of that kind with which 
-we were acquainted, it is probable that their own exploits by sea and land 
orm the principal subjects. The last song is not so often sung as the first, 
which these cheerful creatures unconsciously strike up every hour in the 
day, and which seems to beguile the time both to themselves and their 
children, under almost any circumstances in which they can be placed. The 
men seldom sing, and perhaps consider it unmanly ; for we never heard them 
but at our request, and even then they soon left the women to finish 
the ditty. Their province rather seems to be to invoke the muse of the 
women at the games before described. 


During the season passed at Winter Island, which appears to have been a 
healthy one to the Esquimaux, we had little opportunity of becoming 
acquainted with the diseases to which they are subject. Our subsequent 
intercourse with a greater number of these people at Igloolik, having unfor- 
tunately afforded more frequent and fatal instances of sickness among them, 
I here insert Mr. Edwards’s remarks on this subject. 


‘** Exempted as these people are from a host of diseases usually ascribed to 
the vitiated habits of more civilized life, as well as from those equally numer- 
ous and more destructive ones engendered by the pestilential effluvia that 
float in the atmosphere of more favoured climes, the diversity of their mala- 
dies is, as might @ priori be inferred, very limited. But, unfortunately, that 
improvidence which is so remarkable in their kindred tribes is also with them 
proof against the repeated lessons of bitter experience they are doomed to 
endure. Alternate excesses and privations mark their progress through life, 
and consequent misery in one or another shape is an active agent in effect- 
ing as much mischief amongst them as the diseases above alluded to pro- 
duce in other countries. The mortality arising from a few diseases and 
wretchedness combined seems sufficient to check any thing like a progressive 
increase of their numbers. The great proportion of deaths to births that 


occurred during the period of our intercourse with them has already been 
noticed. 


544 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


** It is doubtful in what proportion the mortality is directly occasioned by 
disease. Few perhaps die, in the strict sense of the term, a natural death. 
A married person of either sex rarely dies without leaving destitute a parent, 
a widow, or ahelpless female infant. To be deprived of near relations is to 
be deprived of every thing; such unfortunates are usually abandoned to 
their fate and too generally perish. A widow and two or three children left 
under these circumstances were known to have died of inanition, from the 
neglect and apathy of their neighbours, who jeered at the commanders of 
our ships on the failure of their humane endeavours to save what the Esqui- 
maux considered as worthless. 

‘* Our first communication with these people at Winter Island gave us a 
more favourable impression of their general health than subsequent experi- 
ence confirmed. There however they were not free from sickness. A 
catarrhal affection in the month of February became generally prevalent, 
from which they readily recovered after the exciting causes, intemperance 
and exposure to wet, had ceased to operate. A solitary instance of pleurisy 
also occurred, which probably might have ended fatally but for timely assist- 
ance. Our intercourse with them in the summer was more interrupted ; but 
at our occasional meetings they were observed to be enjoying excellent 
health. It is probable that their certain supplies of food, and the nomade 
kind of life they lead in its pursuit during that season, are favourable to 
health. Nutrition goes on actively, and an astonishing increase of strength 
and fulness is acquired. Active diseases might now be looked for, but that 
the powers of nature are providentially exerted with effect. 

‘** The unlimited use of stimulating animal food, on which they are from 
infancy fed, induces at an early age a highly plethoric state of the vascular 
system. The weaker over-distended vessels of the nose quickly yield to the 
increased impetus of the blood, and an active hermorrhage relieves the subject. 
As the same causes continue to be applied in exccss at frequent intervals, 
and are followed by similar effects, a kind of vicarious hemorrhage at length 
becomes established by habit; superseding the intervention of art, and 
having no small share in maintaining a balance in the circulating system. 
The phenomenon is too constant to have escaped the observation of those 
who have visited the different Esquimaux people; a party of them has 
indeed rarely been seen that did not exhibit two or three instances of the 
fact. 

** About the month of September, the approach of winter induced the Es- 


qui 


estall 


nent 
bone 


rest 
very 
the 
and 
wint 


appe 
able 
circu 


we \ 
lamp 
glutt 
The: 
stret 
empl 
The 
three 
and | 
relic: 
undi 


conti 
and | 
vidui 
then 
Befo 
ter | 
othe 
peri 
able 
sick 
then 
lows 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 545 


quimaux at Igloolik to abandon. their tents, and to retire into their more 
established village. The majority were here crowded into huts of a perma- 
nent construction, the materials composing the sides being stones and the 
bones of whales, and the roofs being formed of skins, turf, and snow; the 
rest of the people were lodged in snow-huts. For a while they continued 
very healthy ; in fact as long as the temperature of the interior did not exceed 
the freezing point, the vapours of the atmosphere congealed upon the walls, 
and the air remained dry and tolerably pure; besides, their hard-frozen 
winter stock of walrus did not at this time tempt them to indulge their 
appetites immoderately. In January the temperature suffered an unseason- 
able rise, some successful captures of walrus also took place, and these 
circumstances, combined perhaps with some superstitious customs of which 
we were ignorant, seemed the signal for giving way to sensuality. The 
lamps were accumulated and the kettles more frequently replenished, and 
gluttony in its most disgusting form became for a while the order of the day. 
The Esquimaux were now seen wallowing in filth, while some surfeited lay 
stretched upon their skins enormously distended, and with their friends 
employed in rolling them about to assist the operations of oppressed nature. 
The roofs of their huts were no longer congealed, but dripping with wet and 
threatening speedy dissolution. The air was in the bone-huts damp, hot, 
and beyond sufferance offensive with putrid exhalations from the decomposing 
relics of offals, or other animal matter permitted to remain from year to year, 
undisturbed in these horrible sinks. 

‘* What the consequences might have been had this state of affairs long 
continued it is not difficult to imagine ; but fortunately for them an early 
and gradual dispersion took place, so that by the end of January few indi- 
viduals were left in the village. The rest in divided bodies established 
themselves in snow-huts upon the sea-ice at some distance from the land. 
Before this change had been completed disorders of an inflammatory charac- 
ter had appeared. A few went away sick, some were unable to remove, and 
others taken ill upon the ice, and we heard of the death of several about this 
period. 

“ The cold snow-huts into which they had moved, though infinitely prefer- 
able to those abandoned, were ill suited to the reception of people already 
sick. or predisposed, from the above-named causes, to sickness; many of 
them were also deficient in clothing to meet the rigorous weather that fol- 
lowed. Nevertheless after this violent excitement had passed away a com- 

4A 


546 


SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


paratively good condition of health was enjoyed fur the remainder of the 
winter and spring months. 

‘* Their distance from the ships at once precluded any effectual assistance 
being rendered them at their huts, and their removal on board with safety ; 
the complaints of those who died at the huts therefore did not come under 
observation. It appears however to have been acute inflammation of some of 
the abdominal viscera, very rapid in its career. In the generality the disease 
assumed a more insidious and sub-acute form, under which the patient 
lingered fora while, and was then either carried off by a diarrhea, or slowly 
recovered by the powers of nature. Three or four. individuals who, with 
some risk and trouble, were brought to the ships, we were providentially 
instrumental in recovering ; but two others almost hopeless patients were so 
far exhausted before their arrival, that the endeavours used were unsuccess- 
ful, and death was probably hastened by their removal. 

. * Abdominal and thoracic inflammations in fact seem to be the only active 
diseases they have to encounter. Where a spontaneous recovery does not 
take place these prove fatal in a short time. The only instance among them 
of chronic sequels to those complaints occurred in an old man almost in 
dotage, whose feeble remains of life were wasting away by an ulceration of 
the lungs. 

** No traces of the exanthematous disorders met our observation. A soli- 
tary case ofepiiepsy was seen in a deaf and dumb boy, who eventually died, 
Chronic rheumatism occurs, but it is rare and not severe. I have some 
doubt in saying that scurvy exists among them. A disease however having 
a close affinity to it was witnessed, but as in the oniy case that came fairly 
under our notice it was complicated with the symptoms of a previous debili- 
tating disease, the diagnosis was difficult. During the patient’s recovery 
from one of the abdominal attacks above mentioned, the gums were observed 
to be spongy, separated from the teeth and reverted, ‘bleeding, and in vari- 
ous parts presenting the livid appearance of scorbutic gums. At the same 
period arose pains of an anomalous description, and of considerable severity, 
about the shoulders and thorax. These gradually yielded as he recovered 

strength, but were succeeded by other pains and tenderness of the bones 
and muscles of the thighs and legs. The citric acid was given to him freely 
from the beginning until it interfered with his appetite and bowels, when 
it was omitted. Topical applications were at the same time used, and after- 
wards continued, Signs of amendment appeared before became necessary 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE, 547 


to withhold the vegetable aciti, and it ‘sas not recurred to while he remained 
on board. Urged by impativmce of comtrol he left us to join his countrymen 
before he had well regained his strength, but we saw him on board several 
times afterwards in a progressive state of improvement, and though yet weak 
free from scorbutic symptoms. Another instance offered in a woman, whom 
I saw but once. Her gums were spongy and reverted, bu! not discoloured, 
her countenance sallow, lips pale, and she suffered under general debility, 
without local pain or rigidity of the limbs. She remained in this state for a 
long time, and eventually as the weather improved recovered without assist: 
ance. 

_ “ That affection of the eyes, known by the name of snow-blindness, is ex- 
tremely frequent among these people. With them it scarcely ever goes beyond 
painful irritation, whilst among strangers inflammation is sometimes the con- 
sequence. I have not seen them use any other remedy besides the exclu- 
sion of light; but, as a preventive, a wooden eye-screen is worn, very 
simple in its construction, consisting of a curved piece of wood six or seven 
inches long, and ten or twelve lines broad, (4.) It is tied over the eyes like 
a pair of spectacles, being adapted to the forehead and nose, and hollowed 
out to favour the motion of the eye-lids. A few rays of light only are 
admitted through a narrow slit an inch long, cut opposite to each eye. This 
contrivance is more simple and quite as efficient as the more heavy one pos- 
sessed by some who have been fortunate enough to acquire wood for the 
purpose. This is merely the former instrument, complicated by the addition 
of a horizontal plate projecting three or four inches from its upper rim like 
the peak of a jockey’s cap. In Hudson’s Strait the latter is common, and 
the former in Greenland, where also we are told they wear with advantage 
the simple horizontal peak alone. 

** There are upon the whole no people more destitute of curative means 
than these. With the exception of the hemorrhage already mentioned, which 
they duly appreciate, and have been observed to excite artificially to cure 
head-ach, they are ignorant of any rational method of procuring relief. It 
has not been ascertained that they use a single herb medicinally. As pro- 
phylactics they wear amulets, which are usually the teeth, bones, or hair of 
some animal, the more rare apparently the more valuable. In absolute sick- 
ness they depend entirely upon their Angekoks, who, they persuade them- 
selves, have influence over some submarine deities who govern their destiny. 
The mummeries of these impostors, consisting in pretended consultations 

4A 2 


548 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


with their oracles, are looked upon with confidence, and their mandates, 
however absurd, superstitiously submitted to. These are constituted of 
unmeaning ceremonies and prohibitions generally affecting the diet, both in 
kind and mode, but never in quantity. Seal’s flesh is forbidden, for instance, 
in one disease, that of the walrus in the other; the heart is denied to some 
and the liver to others. A poor woman, on discovering that the meat she 
had in her mouth was a piece of fried heart instead of the liver, appeared 
horror-struck ; and a man was in equal tribulation at having eaten, by mis- 
take, a piece of meat cooked in his wife's kettle. 

‘‘ This charlatanerie, although we may ridicule the imposition, is not, how- 
ever, with them, as it is with us, a positive evil. In the total absence of the 
medical art, it proves generally innoxious ; while in many instances it must 
be a source of real benefit and comfort, by buoying up the sick spirit with 
confident hopes of recovery, and eventually enabling the vital powers to rise 
superior to the malady, when, without such support, the sufferer might have 
sunk under its weight. It was attempted to ascertain whether climate effected 
any difference in animal heat between them .and ourselves, by frequently 
marking the temperature of the mouth; but the experiments were ncces- 
sarily made, as occasion offered, under such various states of vascular excite- 
ment, as to afford nothing conclusive. As it was, their temperature varied 
from 97° to 102°, coinciding pretty nearly with our own under similar cir- 
cumstances. The_ pulse offered nothing singular. 

‘«¢ I may here remark that there is in many individuals a peculiarity about 
the eye amounting,. in some instances, to deformity, which I have not noticed 
elsewhere. It consists in the inner corner of the eye being entirely covered 
by a duplication of the adjacent loose skin of the eye-lids and nose. This 
fold is lightly stretched over the edges of the eye-lids, and forms as it were 
a third palpebra of a crescentic shape. The aperture is in consequence ren- 
dered somewhat pyriform, the inner curvature being very obtuse, and in 
some individuals distorted by an angle formed where the fold crosses the 
border of the lower palpebra. This singularity depends upon the variable 
form of the orbit during immature age, and is very remarkable in childhood, 
less so towards adult age, and then, it would seem, frequently disappearing 
altogether ; for the. proportion in which it exists among grown-up persons 
bears but a small comparison with that observed among the young. 

‘* Personal deformity from mal-conformation is uncommon; the only 
instance I remember being that of a young woman, whose utterance was 


by 
situ 
situ 
the 
site 
the 
in | 
Adn 
mau 
canr 
prin 
of si 
haps 
have 
hood 
the 
live, 
othe: 
any i 
prob 
coast 
the w 
line ¢ 
these 
Wi 
whate 
certai 
treme 
years 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 549 


unintelligibly nasal, in consequence of an imperfect development of the 
palatine bones leaving a gap in the roof of the mouth.” 


The imperfect arithmetic of these people, which resolves every number 
above ten into one comprehensive word, prevented our obtaining any very 
certain information respecting the population of this part of North America 
and its adjacent islands. The principal stations of these people, not visited 
by us, are Akkoolee, Toonoonee-roochiuh, Peelig, and Toonoonek, of whose 
situation I have already spoken. The first of these, which is the only one 
situated on the continent, lies in an indentation of considerable depth, on 
the shores of the Polar Sea, running in towards Repulse Bay on the oppo- 
site coast, and forming with it the large peninsula situated like a bastion at 
the north-east angle of America, which I have named ME vite PENiNsuLA, 
in honour of Viscount Metvitiz, the First Lord Commissioner of the 
Admiralty. From what we know of the habits and disposition of the Esqui- 
maux, which incline them always to associate in considerable numbers, we 
cannot well assign a smaller population than fifty souls to each of the four 
principal stations above-mentioned; and including these, and the inhabitants 
of several minor ones that were occasionally named to us, there may per- 
haps be three or four hundred people belonging to this tribe, with whom we 
have never had communication. In all their charts of this neighbour- 
hood they also delineate a tract of land to the eastward, and somewhat to 
the northward, of Igloolik, where they say the Seadlermeoo, or strangers, 
live, with whom, as with the Esquimaux of Southampton Island, and all 
others coming under the same denomination, they have seldom or never 
any intercourse, either of a friendly or a hostile nature. It is more than 
probable that the natives of the inlet called the River Clyde, on the western 
coast of Baffin’s Bay, are a part of the people thus designated ; and indced 
the whole of the numerous bays and inlets on that extensive and productive 
line of coast may be the residence of great numbers of Esquimaux, of whom 
these people possess no accurate information. 

Whatever may be the abundance sometimes enjoyed by these people, and 
whatever the maladies occasioned by their too frequent abuse of it, it is 
certain that they occasionally suffer very severely from the opposite ex- 
treme. A remarkably intelligent woman informed Captain Lyon, that two 
years ago some Esquimaux arrived at Igloolik from a place near Akhoolee 


SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


$50 


bringing information that, during a very grievous famine, one party of men 
had fallen upon another and killed them; and that they afterwards subsisted 
on their flesh, while in a frozen state, but never cooked nor even thawed it. 
This horrible account was soon after confirmed by Toolemak, on board the 
Fury ; and though he was evidently uneasy at our having heard the story, 
and conversed upon it with reluctance, yet by means of our questions he 
was brought to name, upon his fingers, five in‘tividuals who had been killed 
on this occasion. Of the fact therefore there can be doubt; but it is certain 
also that we ourselves scarcely regarded it with greater horror than those 
who related it; and the occurrence may be considered similar to those 
dreadful instances on record, even among civilized nations, of men devour- 
ing one another, in wrecks or boats, when rendered desperate by the suf- 
ferings of actual starvation. 

The ceremony of crying, which has before been mentioned as practised 
after a person’s death, is not however altogether confined to those melan- 
choly occasions, but is occasionally adopted in cases of illness, and that of 
no very dangerous kind. The father of a sick person enters the apartment, 
and after looking at him for a few seconds without speaking, announces by 
a kind of low sob his preparation for the coming ceremony. At this signal 
every other individual present composes his features for crying, and the 
leader of the chorus then setting up a loud and piteous howl, which lasts 
about a minute, is joined by all the rest, who shed abundant tears during 
the process. So decidedly is this a matter of form, unaccompanied by 
any feeling of sorrow, that those who are not relatives shed just as many 
tears as those that are ; to which may be added, that in the instances which 
we witnessed there was no real occasion for crying at all, It must therefore 
be considered in the light of a ceremony of condolence, which it would 
be either indecorous or unlucky to umit. 

I have already in the course of the foregoing Narrative given several 
instances of the little care these people take in the interment of their dead, 
especially in the winter season ; it is certain however that this arises from 
some superstitious notion, and particularly from the belief that any heavy 
weight upon the corpse would have an injurious effect upon the deceased in 

a future state of existence ; for even in the summer, when it would be an 
easy matter to secure a body from the depredations of wild animals, the 
mode of burial is not essentially different. The corpse of a child observed 


% 


car 


ef 


a we a eR a ee aee hg Ve aR 


stitio 


agen 
the / 


and « 


mau) 
contr 
and 
coun 
wher 
supe! 
degr 
the ¢ 
orac} 
to th 


peof 


4 


* 
eS 
eu 
se 
ie . 
at 
x 
ie 
ay 
a 
# 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 551 


by Lieutenant Palmer, he describes as ‘‘ being laid in a regular but shallow 
grave, with its head to the north-east. It was decently dressed in a good 
deer-skin jacket, and a seal-skin prepared without the hair was carefully 
placed as a cover to the whole figure, and tucked in on all sides. The body 
was covered with flat pieces of limestone, which however were so light that 
a fox might easily have removed them. Near the grave were four little 
separate piles of stones, not more than a foot in height, in one of which 
we noticed a piece of red cloth and a black silk handkerchief, in a second a 
pair of child’s boots and mittens, and in each of the others a whalebone 
pot. The face of the child looked unusually clean and fresh, and a few 
days only could have elapsed since its decease.” 

These Esquimaux do not appear to have any idea of the existence of One 
Supreme Being, nor indeed can they be said to entertain any notions on this 
subject, which may be dignified with the name of Religion. Their super- 
stitions, which are numerous, have all some reference to the preternatural 
agency of a number of toorngow, or spirits, with whom, on certain occasions, 
the Angetkooks pretend to hold mysterious intercourse, and who in various 
and distinct ways are supposed to preside over the destinies of the Esqui- 
maux. On particular occasions of sickness or want of food the Angetkooks 
contrive, by means of a darkened hut, a peculiar modulation of the voice, 
and the uttering of a variety of unintelligible sounds, to persuade their 
countrymen that they are descending to the lower regions for this purpose, 
where they force the spirits to communicate the desired information. The 
superstitious reverence in which these wizards are held, and a considerable 
degree of ingenuity in their mode of performing their mummery, prevent 
the detection of the imposture, and secure implicit confidence in these absurd 
oracles, My friend Captain Lyon having particularly directed his attention 
to this part of their history during the whole of our intercourse with these 
people, and intending to publish his Journal which contains much interest- 
ing information of this nature, I shall not here enter more at large on the 
subject. Some account of their ideas respecting death, and of their belief 
in a future state of existence, have already been introduced in the course 
of the foregoing pages, in the order of those occurrences which furnished 
us with opportunities of observing them. 

The language of the Esquimaux is so full of words, and so varied and 
peculiar in the formation of its sentences, that it would require a much 
longer acquaintance with these people, as well as far greater ability than 


552 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


mine, to give a satisfactory account of its grammatical construction. In the 
few remarks which follow, I have taken as my guide Crantz’s Account of the 
janguage of Greenland, and have endeavoured to trace a resemblance or to 
discover a difference between the two, as far as our knowledge enables us 
to ascertain. They are in fact, however, so nearly allied to each other, that 
it canno’ but excite surprise to observe how slight a change time and distance 
have been able to effect in the language, as well as in the habits, of this 
widely-scattered nation. * 

One of the principal difficulties experienced by an European in acquiring 
a knowledge of this language, arises from the constant blending of the several 
words of a sentence into one, not simply by joining them loosely together, 
but by a regular combination of the whole, according to fixed yet intinitely 
varied rules. Of this peculiarity Crantz* has given an instance or two, 
which, though extreme cases, serve to shew the kind of difficulty which 
occurs in distinguishing the separate words of which such a sentence is com- 
pounded, 

Several of our letters, taken according to the English mode of pronuncia- 
tion, are not in use among these people. The letter c may at all times be 
very well represened by /; and f, j, q, v, 2; and 2 never, I believe, occur at 
ail, Of about eight hundred words contained in the annexed Vocabulary, 
I can find none beginning with the letters 4, d, g, 1, r, or ut. D occurs 
very seldom in the middle of a word, and @ still more rarely ; and in most 
eases these letters immediately precede the liquids /orr. It is worthy of 
remark, that the only exception to this that I have mot with occurs in three 
of the words used in the games already described, where the db is followed 
by a vowel, as if, in the formation of these probably unmeaning words, as 
well as in the mode of uttering them, something out of the common way 
had been intended by the inventor. The letter f being quite unknown to 
them, the first attempt at the word “ fife’ prodyced ‘ pipe,” and it was not 
till after much practice that they could pronounce even one of the /’s with 
distinctness. 

I have remarked above that / is not used at the beginning of a word; for 
though it thus occurs in the conjunction (oo, yet as this is invariably placed at 


" II. 224, 225, 

+ The words so spelt by Crantz are, according to the English pronunciation, more accu- 
rately expressed by Oo, as in Oo-ang-&, Nearly the same remark applies to the v of the 
Missionaries, for which, in English, « must be substitute. 


the ¢ 
the 
nam 


lette 
Esqu 
ina 
diale 


ny 
that 
of ar 
the vy 
Whe 
ping 
in * 

It 
at di 
seen 
word 
monl 
for J 
leega 
Voce 

et 
The 
thes 
obta 
Oono 


verb 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 553 


the end of the noun or pronoun, it can hardly be considered an exception to 
the rule. The Esquimaux had great difficulty in pronouncing Captain Lyon’s 
name, which it was more convenient to them to change into Nayon. The 
letter J occurs perhaps more frequently than any other in the middle of 
Esquimaux words. The letters r and s are never pronounced as with us, but 
in a thick guttural manner, the former approximating to the Northumbrian 
dialect, and the latter to the Scotch ch, (as in the word “loch.’?) The mark 

- over either of those letters in the Vocabulary is intended to express 
that sound. Ther at the beginning of a word is perhaps the least adapted 
of any to their organs or habits of speech, and the combination of letters in 
the word “spring” produced from them nothing nearer than ‘“ sh-pudding.” 
When the letter g is preceded by n, and followed by a vowel, as in anga and 
pingahuke, the g is sounded as in the English word ‘“ hanger,” and not as 
in “ anger.” 

It is common for the Esquimaux to vary the pronunciation of their words 
at different times without altering the sense. The women, in particular, 
seem frequently to make such alterations as conduce to the softness of the 
words, as, for instance, by dropping the harsh final & which occurs so com- 
monly, as Innialoo for Innialook ; by changing it into a vowel, as Ne-a-ko-a 
for Neakoke, or by altering Oo-ce-ga in to Oo-ing-a or Oo-ee-ma, and Hee-u- 
teega into Hee-u-ting-a. Other examples of the same kind occur in the 
Vocabulary. 

The nouns substantive have three numbers, singular, dual, and plural. 
The dual generally terminates with a &, and the plural with ator an 7, to 
these, however, there are some exceptions among the following words, 
obtained by repeatedly using the words Attowsewk (one), Madleroke (two), and 
Oonooktoot (a great many) respectively. 

Singular. Dual. Plural. 
Keiyak Kei-nia Keinian 
Igloo Iglook Igloot 
Ang-oot Angootik Angootit 
Pan-na Pan-nak Pannan 
Innuke In-nuke Innueet 
Ka-bloo-na Kabloonak Kabloonan 
Took-too Took-took Tooktoot 
Oo-ming-muk Oomingmak Oomingmei. 


In the construction of a sentence the nominative case usually precedes the 
verb, except it be a personal pronoun, which appears always to follow the 
4B 


554 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


verb, as ‘* tamooa ooanga’” (I eat), and indeed, in some instances, is so con- 
nected with it as to form a single word. The accusative case often precedes 
the verb, as ‘‘ Omut tamooa ooanga” (I am eating heart). The adjectives 
which I have been able to discover are so few that they are probably in this 
language, as in that of Greenland, of rare occurrence. Articles, I believe, 
they have none. The personal pronouns are as follow, nor could we distin- 
guish any difference of pronunciation between these and the possessive pro- 
nouns. The latter always follow the substantive to which they belong. 
I, Oo-ang-a He, Oma Ye, Illipsee 
jIg-weet We, Oo-a-goot They, Okkoa. 
oY UIL-weet 


The language of the Esquimaux abounds in verbs, there being a different 
one for each of several expressions which, in other languages, are either 
comprehended under one general term, or require a number of words to con- 
vey the meaning. To the instance quoted by Crantz (II. 218.) of those 
used to express what we call “ to fish,” I may add two others; namely, 
the variety of words they use for throwing a spear, or for putting on 
their clothes, the verb being formed of the noun denoting the particular 


kind of spear thrown, or the article of dress put on. This copiousness ren- 
ders it the more difficult to acquire a knowledge of the moods and tenses, 
especially when the words of asentence are so closely blended as in this lan- 
guage. The following are the six persons of the present tense of the verb 
“ to be well.” . 


Nappa-woong-a Jam 
Nappa-wootik Thou art 
Nappa-woke He is 
Nappa-woot We are 
Nappa-wootit Ye are 
Nappa-wook They are 


well, orin health. 


The third person singular gencrally terminates in oke, and most of the verbs 
in the Vocabulary are inserted in this person, which the Esquimaux more 
commonly gave than any other. There appear to be, as in Greenland, two 
imperative moods, one expressing a desire and the other a summary and 
positive command. This last ends in it, as “ Eiliarit igloomoot” (Go away to 
the huis), and, when spoken with seriousness by a man to his wife or child, 
ensures immediate attention. 


The only prepositions that I have noticed (if indeed parts of speech can 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 555 


be so called which always follow the noun) are three ; namely, mié (at), as 
*‘Igloomikpoke,” he is at the huts; mee (in, upon, or, sometimes, at), as 
“‘ Oomia-mee,” in the ship; ‘ Sikkoomee,” upon the ice; “ Amitio-mee,” 
at Amitioke ; and moot (to), as ‘‘Ooagna-moot,” to the westward. These 
ave always tacked on at the end of the noun, like que in Latin; and so is the 
conjunction Joo (and), being pronounced with it, as if one word. A com- 
mon interjection, expressing surprise and admiration, is Hei! or Hei-ya! but 
a superlative degree of astonishment, mixed with pleasure, is expressed by 
the words A-tamna-tianee ! 

The Esquimaux make much use of winks and nods in conversing. The 
former, which are always intended to convey a negative meaning, are fre- 
quently the only reply made to a question, which a bystander might therefore 
suppose to be still unanswered. A nod, as with us, implies the affirmative. 
A peculiarity in the idiom of this language which may here be noticed, is 
the affirmation of a question put in the negative, in order to convey a nega- 
tive reply, as ‘‘ Have you not been out fishing to-day?” to which if a nega- 
tive answer be intended the person says ‘“‘ Yes,” or returns a nod, implying 
«* Thave not.” I may also mention as another peculiarity in their mode of 
expressing themselves, a common custom of speaking of a third person, not 
by his own name but as “ the father, husband, brother, :c., of such a one,” 
and this even when the individual so spoken of is brother to the person 
speaking. Thus Iligliuk would often call her brother Toolooak ‘“ the son of 
Ka-oong-ut.” In mentioning names it is not uncommon for them to adopt a 
mode of pronunciation differing from the correct one, and which (if the term 
‘can at all be applied to an unwritten language,) may be called colloquial: 
this consists in a change of the termination, as ‘‘ Toolooaghioo” for Toolooak, 
“* Oongalaghioo” for Oong-a-luk, §-c., and appears equivalent to the familiar 
diminutives of Christian names common among us. The proper names 
in common use among these people are borrowed from the most familiar 
objects in nature, and have no reference to the qualities of the possessor, 
as among other savages of the North American continent. The names are 
common to both sexes (so at least we found them in various instances) and 
are usually given after some of the relatives of the parents, but only on one 
occasion that we knew of, after the child’s own parent. That they consider 
the sun as feminine and the moon masculine (as, indeed, do the Green- 
landers,) may be implied from the words “ neiya” and ‘ anninga,” by which 
those objects are respectively called, but which literally mean ‘“ sister” 

4B 2 


556 SECOND VOYAGE FOR THE DISCOVERY 


and ‘‘ brother.” But the name of “ tatkuk,” by which the moon is likewise 
distinguished, belonged to a female in the only instance we knew of its being 
in use. 

These Esquimaux are no great proficients in the science of arithmetic, 
their numerals extending in general only to five, and then commencing again 


thus: 
Attow-seuk . : One, or Six. 
Madleroke, or Ardlek . Two ,, Seven. 
Pingahuke . ' : Three ,, Eight. 
Sittamat . ‘ ‘ Four ,, Nine. 
Téd-lee-mt ‘ ; Five ,, Ten. 


Six and seven are however sometimes expressed by Argwenrak and Argwenrak- 
tow-a, respectively ; and some of the more knowing individuals go so far as 
ten, thus: 


Kittiik!ee-moot ‘ Eight. 
Mikkeelukka-moot Nine. 
Eerkit-koke ‘ ‘ Ten. 


But with these last, which have an evident reference to the fingers held up 
to represent them, very few were acquainted. In courting even as far as 
three they must use their fingers as auxiliaries, and befure they arrive at 
seven generally make some mistake. Beyond nine they hold up both hands, 
and if fifteen or twenty be required they make another person do the same, 
but never use tlicir toes in this way as in Greenland*. It distresses the 
most intelligent person among them to exceed ten in numeration, and they 
are always glad to get off by calling it conooktoot, which may therefore imply 
any number from a dozen toa million. For this reason their account of a 
number beyond ten, unless it be of men or dogs, whose names they remem- 
ber, and which may thus be set down as they repeat them, is never to be 
depended on. 

They reckon their days by ‘ sleeps” (seenik), and their years by summers 
or winters, according as the event of which they speak occurred about either 
of those seasons. The spring they call open-rak, but like ourselves cannot 
very exactly define the limits of that welcome season. They began however 
about the latter end of March, to talk of what had happened “in the win- 
ter.” They have probably some corresponding term to express the autumn, 


* Crantz, II. 225. 


OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 559 


but we had no opportunity of learning it. In one instance I heard a time 
described by the number of moons that had since elapsed, and with tolerable 
precision ; but this mode of computation is not in common use, and was only 
resorted to from the question being put in that way. _We were not aware of 
their making use of any other epochs, or large divisions of time, with onc 
of which, however, our own arrival among them is not unlikely to furnish 
them. It is perhaps owing to their deficiency in numeration that their 
mode of expressing any short interval of time beyond a single day is 
extremely dubious and indefinite. For instance ikpokkee-dnee is used indif- 
ferently to express yesterday, and several days, or even weeks ago, and 
al-rd-nee any past period beyond asingle year. If several years be spoken of 
they either express it by repeating “ alranee, alranee, alranee,” or more 
simply by the usual resource of ‘ oonooktoot” (a great many,) and always 
seem teazed and perplexed by more minute inquiry. 

In expressing colours the same kind of uncertainty exists, except with 
red, white, black, and grey. For blue and yellow the terms given by differ- 
ent persons, or by the same person at different times, are seldom twice alike ; 
and the confession of ‘ nelloo-ooanga” ({ don’t know) generally follows a 
closer inquiry. Dark blue they at once call black, and light blue or yellow, 
white ; as to green they scarcely ever pretend to give it a name, which, little 
as they are accustomed to see that colour, is perhaps not much to be won- 
dered at. 

The foregoing remarks on the language of these people comprise all the 
certain information I have been enabled to collect on this subject, during 
the time of our residence with them, both at Winter Island and Igloolik. I 
shall close this brief sketch by the annexed vocabulary of words and sen- 
tences *, in which great care has been taken not to insert any of which the 
meaning is doubtful. That considerable caution is requisite in this respect 
repeated experience has taught us, as well on account of the uncertainty 
which must always attend a first communication with any people whose 
language is imperfectly known, as from the habit which the Esquimaux 
have of repeating any word you say, as if for the purpose of affirming it, 


* Tn acquiring information of this nature, at the time of our first communication with the 
Esquimaux, we were much assisted by a list of words and sentences in the Greenland lan- 
guage, for which I am indebted to the unsolicited kindness of the Reverend C. I. Latrobe, a 
gentleman well known and deservedly esteemed in the Christian and literary world. 


558 SECOND VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY. 


whereas their intention perhaps is only to get rid of the inquiry. It is very 
common also for them when asked what a thing is, to give the name of the 
material of which it is composed, or of the animal that furnished it, instead 
of the name of the article in its present state. If for instance, a stranger 
should shew a pair of seal-skin mittens, and desire to know their name, an 
Esquimaux would in all probability answer “ neitiek,” (seal,) or “ amia,” 
(skin,) and not mention ‘ poo-a-look,” till more closely questioned. 

In the following collection of words, the mode of spelling adopted has 
been such as to render the pronunciation intelligible to an English person, 
by attending to the following examples of particular combinations of 
letters :— 

a to be pronounced as in father. 

a terminal . . China. 

e or ee - impede, feed. 
ei A . ; . eider, eye. 
oke . - smoke. 

oo . . root. 

Ow or ou. cow, foul. 

uk ‘ : luck. 

uke . duke. 

ut . . . . cut. 


It is of some importance that the stress should be laid on the right 
syllable, to ensure which the marks used in Latia prosody have been 
adopted; namely — long, and ~ short, the latter being usually understood 
where no mark is applied ; the mark + as already obsorved, denotes a guttural 
pronunciation. 


VOCABULARY 


OF 


ESQUIMAUX WORDS AND SENTENCES. 


Air, or weather. Also sky, Arree-ang-2- 
rier » of a whale or seal . 
orheaven. . . See-la. Kool-leéng-a- 
In the open air Seela-meé. Back-bone . . . Keimeg-l00-a. 
Afraid Eerk-see. far Ma-mi-it-poke. 
: Bad, itis . un Shs { ae 
»  heis - Eerk-see-woke. Ma-ma-in-mut. 


Alive,heis . . . 


Alone, or by one’s self 


. ' Inntio-woke. 


. Ke-see-mee. 


Bag, or pocket Ik-périuk. 


"> MitekU-Bé-seenuk. 
Bald, he is . #5 { 


And, or also . Loo. Niyi-i0c-té-woke.. 
Andromeda tetragona Ikke-t-tik, or Band for women’s hair To-gléé-ga. 
(plant) | Ik-see-00-tit. Bark, he does Killo-mo-ak-poke.. 


Angry, he is . Erk-sissee-yak-poke aehas _¢ Nennoo!.. 
Arm, below the elbow Tei-yak-a-nak. % ~~ eS 7 1 Nannoke. 

» above the elbow . . Akkei-atkda. Beads. Hu-now-yak. 
Arrived, or come he is Tikkeet-poke. Beard, or mustachios . Od-mitkee. 
Arrow... Kakleoke. Beat, he does : Tiglik-pakma. 
Asbestos 2... Mitkd0-sha. Bend, itdoes . . .- N ing-00-oke. 
Auk, little . . .  . Akepalli-aiioo. ( Néiyuk. 

Belly ofaman . . . { a 

Aut. . « .» «© Atta. Niid'ek. 
Aurora Borealis. . Arksak. »» of a whale, or seal . Téema. 
Awaken, he does . Toopak-poke. Berry,a . + + Pa-d0na-rootik. 
Away, or faroff .  . Ow-d-nee. Big with young, she is . Sing-ti-wike. 

» o»  heis. Ow-a-nvet-poke. Bird a wr Ting-méé-ya. 
Axe . . 2 «© « «© Odl&é-miw. Birh . - «© «© Oke-péeé-yak. 

| Ka-8-loke-peke.. 

Back ofaman . . . Kipekotteki., Bitehe does + + + {aangeckeyhe 


560 


VOCABULARY OF ESQUIMAUX 


Black, or dark-coloured, it is Kér-niuk-toke. 


Bleed it does . 


Blood 
Blow, he does . 


1 it does (as a whale) . 


Blue, it is 


Boatswain (bird) . 
Boil, it does 

Bone 

Book 


Boot 


+ he puts on his 
» ankle boots 
Bore, or drill, he does 


Bow, for shooting 


» he shoots witha . 


» for drilling . 


Bow-case 


{ A-00-nik-poke. 


A-00k-poke. 
A-00-nak. 
Su-bloo-iik-toke-poke 
Pod-8¢-wike. 
Kow-1l00k-poke. 
Is-Sa-nak. 
Kal-lak-poke. 

{ Ikk6-a-lik-poke. 
Hedwenik. 
Titterow-yak. 
Allek-teéga. 
Mitko-leega. 

| Kaméé-ga. 
Ka-méég-poke. 
Pinneé-ta-ra. 
Ikk06-tok-poke. 
Pit-téé-kee. 
Pittéék-Seik-poke. 
Kéi-woot. 
Pitt@ek-siék-tik. 


Bowl of wood, like a but- 


cher’s tray . 
Box, 


Poo-d0-tuk. 


IllCé-wé-ak. 


Braces for children’s clothes Hwée-té-a-tit. 


Bracelet 
Brains . 


Brass 


Break 


Bread 

Bread-dust 

Breast of a woma,: 
Breast-bone . 


Breeches P 


» he puts on his . 


Seap-ping-a. 
Karrétik. 
Ka-k6-blek. 


{ Now-ik-poke. 


Kétk-ti-ik-poke. 
Shé-gii-lak. 
Kii-nib-iott. 
06-%8-ig-nig. 


Toontk-ti-it. 


{ Kakléé-ga. 


Kakleek. 
Kaklék-poke. 


Brent-goose, or barnacle 


Bristles . 
Brother . 


Brown, it is 


Buoy (made of an inflated 


seal-skin) . 
Burn, it does ’ 
Button 
Butterfly, a 


Calcareous spar 
Calm, it is 

Canoe , 

» he paddlesa . 
Cap, or hood 


Nifeglik. 

Odmia. 

Kattangdotee anééga 
(or anninga.) 


Kéi-yoke-toke. 


- How-witetak. 


O-8-nik-poke. 
Tthé-rée-yuk. 


hikkeé-likkee-ta. 


Oku-réé-yuk. 
[l8é-tng-niik-poke. 
Kei-yak. 
Kei-yak-té-poke. 


Néi-Seak. 


Charm, a skin strap worn as a, O6-yii-méé-ga. 


Cheek 


Chew, he does 

Chin 

Claysslate 

Clench his fist, he does 
Climb, he does 

Cloud 

Coal 

Cold 

Comb 


Come here 


Odlniak. 
Oo-100-ii-ga. 
Ang-00-la-woke. 
Kabldoga. 
Ow-weé-wiuk. 
Eéi-kétt-poke. 
Mi-yti-ik-poke. 
Noo-w00-é-ii, 
Aggii-c-i. 
Tk-kee. 
Tlia-tetils. 


Kéi-lee. Kariee, 


» (more commanding) Kéiliarit. 


» he does 
» down 

» or go in 
» shall? 


Kéi-wa. 
Ka-nd0ngea. 
Ittiek. 
Ittiek-ling-i ? 


» Out, it does(as an arrow) Kat-tik-poke. 


Conjuror, or Sorcerer. 


Ang-tt-kook. 
Anniit-ké«it. 
Annitki. 


Copper 
Cough, 
Crane ( 
Cry, he 


Cup, or 


Cut, he 


Dance, 
Dark 
» if 
Dart fo 
Daught 
Dead, |} 
Dirt 


Dirty, 


Dive, h 
» i 


Dog 


Draba 
Dream 


Dress | 
Dress | 


Drill, : 
» b 
vw hi 

Drink, 

Drink: 

Drop, 

Drow 


Drum, 


WORDS AND SENTENCES. 561 


Copper Ka-n0o-yak. 
Cough, he does 
Crane (bird) 


Cry, he does 


Ko-akto-poke. 
Tattée-le¢-aitiok. 
Kéi-a-woke. 

Cup, or bow! of musk-ox horn Kei-yi-tuk. 
Sowé-ik-poke. 
Sowé-roke-poke. 
Pillitk-toke-poke. 


Cut, he does 


Dance, he does Momék-poke. 

Dark . . .- . Tak. 

Tak-poke. 

N00-g00-&. 

Pannéeya. Panneée. 

T6k00-woke. 

Dirt . oe. «+ +) Ippuk. 
Ippiik-poke. 

;  ealeds 


» it is 
Dart for birds 
Daughter 


Dead, he is 


Dirty, he is 


Dive, he does . 


Atka-iuoke. 
peed 
» it does, as a seal into 


ahole . Aglook-poke. 


Dog 


= { Mikkee. 


Kei-meg. 
Draba alpina (plant). Nap-pdo-yat. 
Dream, he does 
Dress victuals, he does 


An-n6-iik-puke. 
Dress (with clothes) he does { - 
Kap-peet-poke, 
Ik-k60-tak. 
Kéi-woot. 
Ik-k00-tdk-pike. 


Immiek-moke. 


Drill, a 
» bow of . 
» he does . 
Drink, he does 
Drinking-cup im-m66-chiuk. 
Kd0-t06-ik-poke. 
Drown, he does... [ppe-woke. 


Kéilia-owetik. 


Drop, it does, as water 


Drum, or tambourine . 


+ 
Seenik-tdombwike. 


Koo-lip-siuk-poke. 


Drunk, he is 
Dry, it is 

Duck, king 
Duck, eider 
Duck, long-tailed 


Tdk0b-yakpoke. 
Pan-nék-poke. 
Mit-tiek. 
Am-mbow-ligték. 
Al-diggee-atioo. 
Dust » + «6 «  « Oke-oke. 
Kar. . —— 
Hee-u-ting-a. 
Bilis e-  e Se Neée-yuk. 
Neé-yik-méee. 


Tam00-a-woke. 


» tothe 
Eat, he does 
Egg. . + + «+ Mannig. P/.Mannian. 
Ping-a-huke. 

{ Kit-tik-1éé-moot. 
Ping-ii-hi-at. 
Inniiet (plur.) 

» (when strangers) Sead-lér-mé-06. 

Elbow 


Ermine 


Eight 


Eighth 


Esquimaux 


Ikk5-i26-gi. 
Ter-réé-ya. 
European (sub.) Kabloona. 

» — (adj... Kabl06-nik-ta. 
Eye. . «© « « « Eivté-ga. 
111&%-0-poke. 
Kei-ma-réi-yak. 
Ka-bloot-kee. 


sy he has an inflamed 
Eyeslash . 
Eye-brow 
Face . Panty 
Keeniak. 
E-a-ki-poke. 

{ E-ti-kik-poke. 
Ting-ing-%-dke. 
Ow-i-nt. 

+ Owedendét-poke. 


Fall, it does 


yy the tide does . 
Far of 
» he is 
. Oo-inenik-tio-woke 
Attita. 


Sikkee. 
4¢C¢ 


Fat, he is 
Father 


Father (or mother) in-law 


562 
Fawn, a 
Feather ~ 


Female, of any animal 
Fern. A 
File, a 
Finger, a 
5, the first 
» middle 
>» third . 
» little . 
Fire 


Fish 


Fish-hook 

Five 

Flesh of any animal 

Flipper of a seal, fore 
” » hind. 


Foetus of a seal, or walrus 


Foggy, it is 
Food 


Foot of man, or other om 


Foot-print . 
Forehead 

Fork, a 

Four 

Fox . +. + 

Fresh (not salt) 
Frost-bite 
Frost-bitten, it is 
Frozen, it is (as meat) 
Full, he is 


Garters for boots . 


VOCABULARY OF ESQUIMAUX 


Noke-wa. 
Shddlook. Plur.Shdo- 
1068. 
Aiiig-na. 
Oo-~ee-beit. 
Arreé-yak. 
Tik-kiek. 
Tik-kée-8-ritk. 
Kei-tik-lie-rak. 
Mikkée-lie-rak. 
Irkitkoi. 
Ikkooma. 
Ekkalook. 
Ekkaloo. 
Kakliokia. 
Ted-lee-mi. 
Neéeikee. 
Talla-100-d¢. 
Sikkoo-z. 
Ib-lté-bw. 
Tuak-siuk-poke. 
Ta-m00-a. 
Itti-keik. 
Itti-kuteka. 
Itti-gii. 
To0-ma. 
Kii-dw-ga. 
Kap-p00-loot. 
Sittii-mit. 
Térrée-ines-diidv. 
Téi-seuk. 
Kii-kee. 
Kii-kéet-poke. 
Kir-ket-wike. 
Aktid-toke-poke. 


Nabloo-lee-ta. 


Give 


Gloves. . . 


Pillétay. 
Adzde-eidiet. 


Go away (very commanding) Ei-liarit. 


» to the huts 


Go. . . 
» shallI? 


Gone far away,he is . 


Good, it or he is 


Grandmother 


Grass 


Graze, it does (as a deer) 


Great many 


Green 


Grey 


Grow, it does (as a par.’ 


Growl he does 
Gull, glaucous 
» silvery 
» Sabine 
Gums of a man 


Gun, a 


Hair, human 
» of fur 
Hand, a 


Hare 


Harness for dogs 


He 


Head 


Hear, he does 
Heart 


a 


Eiliarit igl0o-moot. 
Annee. Atte. 
Anneel-yanga ? 
Ow-dlak-poke. 


{ Mamik-poke. 


Mamik-mut. 
In-fi-ta. 
Eé-week. 
Neééreé-lék-poke. 
Oondck-toot. 

{ Oond0k-poot. 
Toong-ook. 
Kei-er-ia. 
Now-oke. 
Kattté-mik-poke. 
Now-idivke, 
Now-ya. 
Erkeét-yaggee-irioo. 
It-keet-ka. 
Heéé-ék-kdke-le-gii. 


{ Nueti-ak-ka. 


Nu-yak-ka. 
Mitko. 


{ I-yate-ki. 


Addd-yat-ki. 
Oo-kii-lik. 


An-noo. 


Ooena. 


Na-ii-koke. 
{ Newii-kd-it. 
To-chid-wit. 


Omut. 


Heavy, itis . . . . Oko-mi-it-poke. 


Heel - + « « « Kim-meé-ga. 
Manee. 
Méi-ya. 
Here 
Mowng-a. 
Odea. 


High, tall, or large, he or it is, Ang-é-woke. 

» thelandis .- . Nodon-ing-t-woke. 
High, it is (applied to inani- ¢ King-éét-poke. 

mate objects only . { Podk-td0-woke. 
High (as the sun) . + Powena. 
Hole,a .  . « © « Poo-tdd-a. 

», the circular, in a.canoe Pa-kiut. 

Néi-Seak. 
Hood of a jacket, or a cap { . 7 
Nei-ke-a-ga. 

» heputsonhis . . Nei-éeak-poke. 

» he putsoffhis . . Nei-Se-ék-poke. 
Hop, he does » «  « Nannéé-yak-poke. 
Horns of reinedeer .  . Niagegé-0. 

Hot, or warm » oe 6 Okeko. 

Houseemate .  . «ss [glégeii-téega. 

How? . . « « ~« Kanno? 
Kip-see ? 

How many? . : { Pee 
Kap-seé-née ? 
How do youdo?. . . Kannd-ik-pissee ? 

Answer always made to 


the above (literal sense 


uncertain) . . . Kannd-ing-illi-goot. 


Hummock of ice .  .  . ~Maenée-lia. 
Hungry, he is aoa 
: : Ka-lék-poke. 
( Oo-8-ga. 
Husband » « « « § Oosingea. 
Oo-%-ma. 
Hut, or house =. =. «Igloo. 
» » heisatthe  Igloo-mik-poke. 


Jacket, upper... Cappeestigga. 


WORDS AND SENTENCES. 


Attééga. 
Jacket, under A { 


Atteé-gé-gii. 
» » he putsonhis Atteé-gé-woke. 
Ice. «ww ee Bilev0. 

» uponthe . . . Sikkao-mee. 
Icesberg. . «© © « Picca-ld0-yak. 
Indians . . . «~~. Eért-kéi-lée. 
Inlet,a . . «. . . Kang-ék-loo. 
Instrument of bone for dis- 

covering seals under ice . Keip-kut-tuk. 
Instrument used by women 
for making holes .  . . Keeil-lé-ti. 
Intestines of any animal | vase eihaaa 
Innia-loo. 
Joint of ditto . . . . Niab-gdb-ing-a. 
Irn . . « «ss SOweik. 
Tron-stone » + 6 «) Kal-loogenuk. 
Ivory se ee ew) 6“TOOeW!. 
Just now (used for past 
and future, also for 
“wait”) . . » Oosit-tia. 
A-meel-yi. 


Justso . . « eq 


[t-ki-mze. 


Kidney . .« « « « Tiketo 
Kill, he does». ww TG*k0O=pdke. 
Knee. «ws. Sitekbeit, 
Knife, an Esquimaux man’s  Panni. 
» other .  .« . «  Pilliasewow-yak. 
» aclasp . 6. . OkdO-tik-toke. 
» awoman’s. . . Odsloo, 
Knot, a, he ties .  . « Keislik-poke. 
» heunties . . . E-ytientig-poke. 


- Nélloo-voanga. 
Know, I do not { 


Nelloo-voanga ni-v. 


Lamp of stone . « « Kodd-lé-d0k. 
4c2 


564 


VOCABULARY OF ESQUIMAUX 


Lamp-trimmer (sometimes 


of asbestos) . 
Lamp-black 


Land, or country (also a 


plant) 
Lapland finch 
Laugh, he does 


Lay a thing down, he does 


Lead (metal). 


Leather, dressed . 


Tat-ko. 
Pa-d0. 


Noocna. 
Ketniuk-tarioo. 
Igli-pike. 
E-ld-wii. 
Akekil-lé-iook. 
Kee-uk-tok. 


Leg of a man, below the 


knee 


Kanenaeia. 


» above ditto 


or thigh 


Koke-td-kak. 


Leg of a quadruped, below 


the knee 
Lend, he does 
Lie 
» youtella . 
Lick, he does 
Lick it (imper.) 


Lichen, of three kinds . 


Light (not dark) it is . 


Light (not heavy) it is 
Lightning 


Lights of an animal 


Like this, or in this manner { 


» itis 


Limestone 
Line of thong 


Line platted, of sinew 


Lip, upper 


{ Allek. 


N&é-yoong-i. 
Atéke-poke. 
Shag-loo. 
Shag-loo-ik-p5otik. 
Allook-toke. 
Alloo-pa. 


Tee-réw-yat. 


| K6-ii-yow-tit. 


Oka-yute. 
Ka-6-m6-woke. 
{ Ka-o-mik-poke. 
Okit-tii-nak. 
Kadloome-Ikkéoma. 
Akkéia-goit. 
Immin-na. 
Im-miin- nay. 
tmmun-ittioke. 


Kakote-ting-t-it. 


Akliinik. 
Pelleta. 
+ Kakkeé-wé-i-ga. 


Ka-kloo-ga. 
Ka-kl00-ak. 
Listen, he does . . « Naeliik-poke. 
Little . . . =. «. Mikkee. 

Mikkeét-poke. 


Lip, lower . . { 


<5 he or it is 
Liver of ananimal . . Ting-b-i. 
Longtime ago . . . Aleidenee. 
Look, he does Kéi-niuk-poke. 
Looking-glass Tak-hik-toot. 
Louse . . . ~~. Kooemuk. 
Make faces, he does Ikko-yak-poke. 
Male of any animal . . Ang-oot. 
Mark,a. . . . . Inenik. 
Marmot, a { : — 
Sik-sik. 
Marrow. ... . Pattek. 
Marrow-spoon . . . Patték=nditk. 
Melt, itdoes . . . . K0ddésiuk-poke. 
Mica . «St CK iblia-ke-i. 
Milk .. . . «. . ITme-mook. 
Mitten 2...) . ).) POOed*196K. 
Moon, the . . . . Aneningi. 
hername .  .  . ‘Tatekuk. 
isfull. . . « Nakekdke-poke. 
Kodd-lé-rike-poke. 
shines. , . . Kowemalelak-poke 
Morning . . . «. =. Odeblak. 
Moss... . «~~ . Manenek. 
Mother . . . . . Acmiema. 


is in her quarter 


» (as spoken by infants) A-néena. 
Mountain » » «  « King-nak. 
Mouse . «© «©... Oweineyuk. 
Mouth . . . . . Kanenéé-ia. 


Musk-ox » + + + Odmingmuk. 


Nail of finger,ortoe . . Kookee. 


Nail o! 
the \ 


Namie 


Narwh 
Neck, 

Needle 
Needle 
Nephe 
Nest, : 
Net 01 
Night 


Nine 
No 


Negat 


Nom 


Nod, | 


North 


Nail of ivory, for stopping 


the wounds in seals, §c. . Too-pd0-ta. 
Name... Atka. Dual, Attik. 
»» what is your ? Keé-wit ? 


y»» what is his ? Kee-wowena ? 


Narwhal Keina-100-a. 
Neck, or Throat. Toke-l00-ga. 
Needle Mitkote. 
Needle-case . Attérik. 
Nephew, or Niece Oyii-ogi. 
Nest, a bird’s Oo-bloo-it. 
Net over the lamp Innétit. 
Night Oo-nd6-iik. 
. Sitti-mit. 
— it Mikkeé-luk-kit-mo0t. 
Nak-ka. 
No. . -.f Nard, 
Negative, used with verbs _Tlia. 
Tugewa. 
Nomore . : { Teiewah. 
Nod, he does . : { oo 
North Kan-ning-nak. 
3» to the Kan-ning-na-me%. 
» the wind blowsfrom the Kan-ning-niik-poke. 
North-east Akkood-loonawook,. 
( Kéi-nak. 
Nose ‘ 
( King-aia. 
Nostril Pangea. 
Now Mang-a. 
Oil, or blubber O-ki-ii. 
Old, he is It-t00t-koo-ik-poke. 
One. . RW At-tow-seuk. 
Open the door, he does Mak-pék-poke. 


Ornamental band for the head 


of Esquimaux men Muk-kéed-yii-tik, 


WORDS AND SENTENCES. 


Ornament of brass or copper, 
worn on the forehead by 


Esquimaux women 


Overset, it does 
Owl 
Paddle, a 
» a canue, he does 
Pimple 
Pin, a 
Plant, a 
Plat, I do 


Plover, golden 
Pluck off, he does 
Plug, cork, or stopper (also 
used for islands lying in 
the middle of channels) 
Plug, or Stop up, he does . 
Pocket, or Bag 
Poppy (Papaver Nudicaule) 
Pot for cooking 
Potestone . 


Pull, he does 
»» one’s hair, he does 
Push, he does 


Pyrites, iron . 


Quartz, or any stone like it 


Rain, it does 
Raven 

Raw (as meat) 
Red, it is 

Rib, small 


Kéw-woot. 
King-n00-woke. 
Ook-peé-guak. 


Pa-00-tik. 
Kei-yak-té-poke. 
Kang-ting-mang-a. 
Too-poo-tow-yak. 
Noona. 
Péllétay-donga. 
Toodl&€-arioo. 
E-re-tik-poke. 


Khémig. 
Khémig-pa. 
Ikpériuk. 
O-suke. 
Odt-k5G-8ek. 


Oot-koo-seek-seak. 


( Nu-hiike-poke. 
| Noo-kit-poke. 


Nu-yik-té-poke. 


{ Nee-pik-poke. 


A-yéw-itik-poke. 


Inneuk. 


Too-ndb-yak. 


Mak-kook-poke. 
T00-100-ik. 
Mik-ké=iik. 
A-6-pii-l00k-poke. 
Nactit-kb-a, 


566 VOCABULARY OF ESQUIMAUX 


Rib, large. -  « Téolémak. 
: F Ti-min-ni. 

Right, that is { ; 
Ti-min. 

Ring, for the finger Ikkiit-kémé-tarfa. 

Hii-d-nik-pa-took- 
poke. 

Rise, it does (as the tide) . Oo-ling-06-oke. 


Ring, it does (as metal). { 


River, or Stream. . ~. Koo. 
Roll, itdoes .  - . Akiea-ki-ii- woke. 
Rough, itis . . +. Manneeliut. 
Round, itis. . . Ang-mi-16-ik-poke. 
Rub, he does . .  . Al-lir-ttik-poke. 
Ruff for the neck - .» Nak-See-dnga. 
Rua, he does . .  . Akpa-yike-poke. 
Run, it does (water) .  . Koo-d0k-poke. 

» fast.  . Sukii-woke. 

» slowly . Su-keit-poke. 
Rust, it does »  «  « Okdok-poke. 


Salt, or Salt-water, also the 
Sea . . . . Tarrédke. 

Sand . ee ee Sebkat. 
Sand-piper . .. Siggee-dieesitioo. 
is Swiss. .  . Todlé-itioo. 

Saw,a . «+ ~~) Kibloo. 

»hedoes. . 1 Oo-100-ik-poke. 
Saxifraga Oppositifolia 

(plant) » .  « Kakeed-ling-nut, 

Scissars,a pairof  .  . Kiblee-dw-tik. 
Scraper, for cleaning skins Seak-koot. 
Scratch, hedoes . . « Kooemik-poke. 
Seal, large (Phoca Barbata) Oguke. 

» small( ,, Hispida) Neitiek. 

+» middlessized . . Kairdlik. 

» youngofthe .  . Ibléow, 
Sealing excursion, he is gone f Neitiek-poke, 


ON « 6 4 wo ee | Ma-dte-poke. 


Seal-hole . . . . Agloo. 
r Argwénrak-téwa. 
Seven . / + « &« Madleroke. 
 Tikkeemoot. 
Mik-tiek-poke. 
 Meérk-Siek-poke. 
Shade for the eyes .- . Ittee-yiga. 


Sew, she does’. 


Shave, he does . «+ . Ovo-mi-ik-poke. 
Shell ofasnail . .- . Seu-tt-radk. 
Shine, it does (as the moon) Kow-mal-lik-poke. 
Ship, or Boat . «> «+ Oomiak. 
4 at, oronboard the . Odmfiméé. 
Shoe . . . . . «+ Itteé-gé-gi. 
¢ Too-eé-ga. 
Shoulder 
Né-ga-blo-a. 
Shrimp... ee) Pam@6-00-18%, 
Shut the door, he does . Sikkaé-woke. 
Sick,heis . . . « Annéé-ik-poke. 
Sigh he does . . Annek-éeik-poke. 
Silver, or Tin b 4 Im-root. 
Sinew .. - E-wal-loo. 


Sit down ers - Ingit-poot. 


Sister. » «  «° « Kattang-ooteeNeiya, 


» inelaw. «2°. OkdO-dtri. 
Six. . . . « « Argwéniak. 


Sing, he does . .* « Imniek-poke. 


; Ameg. 
si ; {aes 
+ of walrus . . »« Kaedw. 
» of oguke . « Kéi-Seek. 
5, of whale .  . + Maketuk. 
Skin-vessel, placed under a 


lamp oe ee) Abendgeweeii, 


Skin-vessels, small bucket- { Kei-ning-tak. 
Kiat-tak. 


shaped . 
Skins of deer, made into a 


blanket . . «. © Keipik. 


Skip a 


Sky . 


Sledg 
” 
Sleep, 
Slide 
Sling 
Small 


Smell 


Smok 


Smoo 
Snare 
Sneez 
Snor 

Snov 


” 


Snow 


Snov 


Snov 


Skip a rope, he does 


Sky . 


Sledge,o ww 

» hedraws a. 
Sleep, he does 
Slide down, it does 
Sling for stones 
Small 


Smell, he does . 
Smoke. Also Fog 
s  itdoes . 


Smooth... 
Snare for birds 
Sneeze, you do 
Snore, he does . 
Snow 

» itdoes . 
Snow-drift . 


% there is some . 


Snow-goose 


Snow-bunting 
Son. . 

» she bearsa . 
Sore,itis . . 


Sorrel 
Soup 
South . 

»» to the 
South-west . 
Spade for snow. 
Spear for small seal 


Kall’-wik-thk-toke 

{ Ainow-yak-toke. 
Keiluk. 

1 eeeta 
Ka-moo-tik. 
Kamook.see-érri-poke 

F Szenik-poke. 
Sittd0-woke. 
lew. 

Mikkee. 
Nei-woke. 
trees 

. _ Tisiek. 

Iisiek-poke. 

{ Pe-u-dke-poke. 
Mannéefra. 

. Néé-yak. 
Tagéd-pootik. 

« Kamoo-é-woke. 
Appoo. 
Kan-ne-tk-poke. 
Niattéé-rd0-ik. 


Nattee-roo-ik-poke. 


Kang-ook. 
K6pénnb-accii-tt. 
Eeining-a. 

{ Eei-neé-a. 
Eeinté-woke. 


{ A-ang-mut. 


A-ii-poke. 
Koiig-6-lék, 

. Kayo. 
Ping-tng-nak. 
Ping-ang-nii-me, 
Oo-agnirit. 

» Poo-alle-ray. 

- Od-nak. 


WORDS AND SENTENCES. 


| Spear for large seal 


» 9, Walrus and whale 
” ” deer . 
9, Salmon . 

Spit, he does 

Spittle 

Spoon 

Spirit 

Spring 


Square, it is 

Squint, he does 

Stab, he does ey 
Star . 


Starfish . 


Stand up 
Steal, he does 


Stone 


» for sharpening a knife Ar-tee-yak. 
Straps used by women for 


carrying their children . 


Strike, he does 


String of a bow 
Suck at the breast, he does 


Suckle a child, she does 
Sun, the . 

»» its name 

yy rises 

» sets 
Summer 

» inthe . 
Swallow-pipe of an animal 
Swan 


Sweat, he does .  . 


{ Toorngow. 


. Toke-pa, 


567 f 
Akl&é-ik, orAklgega. 
Kattdélik. 


Ippoo. 
Kakkéé-wei. 
Kei-se-ak-poke. 


Noo-ii-ga. 


{ Ilia-oot. 
Alloo, 


Toorng-i. 


Opén-ia. 
Kik-pairik-poke. 
Nak-kao-woke. 
Kappeé-woke. 


Oo-bldc-iiak. 


r Add&-yuggdé-ya-d- 


yet. 
Nekko-igliee. 
Tiglik-poke. 


Oo-yai'=ia. 


Kakeo-méwtik. 


No-ik-tii. 
¢ Amami-lik-poke. 
{ Millu-kik-poke. 
Ami-m00k-poke. 
Néi-ya. 
Sak-ké-niik, 


Né-wé-woke. 


. Nip-pé-woke. 


Ow-yak. 


Ow-ya-meé. 


Iggee-ing=a. 


Ké-guke. 


Ow-midia-poke, 


568 


Swim, he does. 


Surprised, heis . 


Tall,heis ‘§ © . 
Talk, he does 


Tail of a quadruped 


Tail of a whale, seal, Sc. 


VOCABULARY OF ESQUIMAUX 


Immiréke-poke. 
{ Nilléke-péke. 
Nannérak-poke. 


Ang-é-wike. 

Okad-litk-poke. 
{ Okak-poke. 

Paméé-yoong-ii. 


Seak-peek. 


Take, (also used for adopt) Teéégo. 


Tattooing 
Tear, he does 
Ten . 

Tent . 
Tent-pole 
Thanks 


That 


There 


They 


Thief 
Thimble . 


Thin, he is 


Those 


Thread a needle, she does . 


Throat 

Throw a spear, he does 
» & stone ” 

Throwing-stick 

Three 

Third 

Thumb 

Thunder, itdoes .  . 


Ka-kéé-na. 
Allik-poke. 
Eérkit-koke. 
Too-pek. 
Kanena. 


Koyénna. 


{ Ooena. 


Tamena. 


{ Ta-miaenee. 


Ta-mei-ya. 


{ Okkiéa. 


Kat-kb-i. 
Tigliktoke. 
Tikkiek. 


Koo-innéé-woke. 


Mak-ko-a, 


Noo-wéeé-woke. 


Todp-k06-é-id-yuk. 


Akle-aik-poke. 
Mé-l0-¢i-ik-poke. 
Noke-shak. 
Ping-i-hiike. 
Ping-i-hi-it, 
Koo-blo6-ga. 
Kad-liik-poke. 


Too, And, or Also 
To-day 
Toe, great 

x second 

» third 

» fourth 

» little 


To-morrow 


The day after to-morrow 


Tongue 

Tooth 

Touch, he does 
Tickle, he does 

Trap, a 

Tremble, he does . 
Tree, a 

Triangular, it is 

Trim a lamp, she does 
Turnstone (bird) . 


Two 


Uncle 


Unclench his fist, he does . 


Undress, you do 


* he does 


Unplug, he does 


Upside down, it is 


Loo. 
Oo-bld0-mee. 
Put-00-go. 
Tikkéé-é-rak 
Kei-tuk-klierak 
Mikkeé-lierak 
Ir-kit-kb-i, 
Ak-ki-gd0, 

| Akkagoo-d6ng-ii-lee. 


~~ 


eH 
the same as the 
fingers. 


A-g00. 
| Akkagoo-d0ng-a-lee. 
a-nee. 
Okkiia. 
Ké-ii-téet-kit, 
Ak-toke-pa. 
K00-%€-niggé-wak. 
Pood-lut. 
Pang-a-lik-poke. 
Na-pak-to. 
N00106-airik-poke. 
Tatkiak-poke. 
Tallig-wé-arioo. 
Madlérdke. 
{ Ardlek. 


Ang-a. 
IsSee-weeét-poke. 
Makta-pootik. 

{ Marta-pootik. 
Mattik-poke. 
Teide-dke-poke. 
Noo-sh0ok-pa. 


Kood-ying-a-woke. 


Vaccinum Uliginosum (plant) Okéw-yet. 


Valley, or Low-land 


Very, or Extremely . 


Nak-geak. 


Lu-kéwenee. 


Wait. (S 


Walk, he ¢ 


Walrus 

» he 
Warm 
Wart,a . 
Wash, he 
Water . 

» on 
Water-fal 
We, or Or 
Weed, sea 

eee) 

ell, he i 
West 


+ win 
Wet, it is 
Whale 


What 


What is t 
When? 


Where ? 
» «8p 


Whet a | 

Whine, c 

Whip, a 
» he 


Whisper, 


WORDS AND SENTENCES. 


Wait. (See “ Just now”) Oo-it-tia. 


Walk, he does Pe-hike-poke. 

$ » fast. Otak-tak-poke. 

ar » slowly Pé-hi-ti-ak-poke. 
Walrus ad 0} Ei-i-ék, 

» heisgonetokill . Ei-i-tk-poke. 


Warm. . ... «~:~ Oke+ké. 


Wart,a . Odng-nd6-a. 
Wash, he does Eermik-poke. 
Water. . . ~~. Immek. 

»  inoronthe.. Im-mék-mee. 
Water-fall Kog-1l6-nuk. 
We, or Our Oo-k-gdt. 
Weed, sea (tangle) Kitko-a. 

» 9 another kina . Minenit. 
Well, he is Nappa-woke. 


West . . »« «© « Oosigenuk. 


Oo-ig-nii-mee. 
» ote 2 Loe 

Oo-ag-nit-moot. 
»» Wind blows from the Oo-ag-nitik-poke. 


Wet, it is »  » «6 « Kéw-éé-uk-poke. 


Whale . . . . . Aggi-wék. 
Hedke-ktk. 
Ok-ii-k, 


A 
Sitiena. 


» bone 


s»  blubber, or oil . 


What . . . . . 4 Siiemee. 
Su-mig. 
Suna Oona ? 
Kakkogi ? 
Kang-a ? 


What is that ? 


When ? a { 


Where? . Ném-moot ? 
» speaking of a distant 
place . «+ 4 Ném-mdo-meé? 
Whet a knife, he does Ai-it-ik-poke. 
Whine, or Cry, he does Kéi-yi-wike. 
Whip,a . Ippeé-ra-d-tuk. 


» hedoes.. . 


Whisper, he does : 


Ippeé-ri-t-dke-poke. 
»  Listé-bé-yake-poke. 


Whistle, he docs . . . Oorin-ya-ti-poke. 
White, or any light colour, 
itis. . . . Kowedlook-poke. 
Who? . { Kéena ? 
Pena ? 
Who isthat? . . . KenaQona? 
Whose?. . . . . Kéeea? 
Wife. { Nool-leé-a. 
Nool-léé-ang-a. 
Willow, flower of, used ag 
tinder . . . Hu-poo-tik. 


Wind . . .) . . Annd-88, 


» blows fresh Pék-siék-poke. 

» blows hard Ann6-klik-poke. 
Wind-pipe Toch-ld6-a, 
Window Ig-gil-lik. 
Wink, he does Sikkoo-nitk-poke. 
Winter Okédke. 

Wolf . . . . . Amiidke. 
Wolverene? . Kablee-arioo. 


Woman ; or Female gene- 


rally. . . . Atfigena. 


Wood . . .) . OKeie yt, 

y grows Kéi-yii-kak-poke. 
Woold, he does Nim-mé-ik-poke. 
Welt { Al-yoW-tt6-ge, 

Ad&é-yow-ti-gi, 
Write, or Draw, he does Tittee-rik-poke. 
Yawn, he does Eittéw-poke. 
Yellow, it is Toong-00k-poke. 
Yes... wwe CA, 
Yesterday Ik-pdke-yuk, 


5, The day before (used 
also forsome time ago) [k-pik-keé-ienee. 


Ig-weet. 
You, (singular) ’ { 


Tl-weet. 
y> (plural) . Illip-sec. 
Young, he is . . Mak-kike-poke. 


4D 


569 


ESQUIMAUX 


NAMES OF PLACES, 


Souraampron Isianp “ The land of Sead-lér-m80o.” 


Chesterfield Inlet ‘ 
Land to the southward of ditto 
Wager River 

Beach Point 


Repulse Bay, and the land about it 
Haviland Bay 
Island off ditto 


Bushnan Island 
Vansittart Island 
Georgina Island 
Gore Bay 
Cape Martineau, and land about it 
Lyon Inlet, and all the country about it 
Hoppner Inlet 
Norman Creek 
Sherer Creek, and the land about it  . 
Ross Bay 
Winter Island 
Crawford Island 
The Island off Cape Wilson 
Barrow River : 
Coxe Islands, the largest of them 
* Ormond Island é ‘ 


Ikkee-réi-seuk. 
Noo-wook. 
Oot-koo-seek-sa-lik. 
Tei-yig-nak. 
Ei-wil-lik. 


How-wiit-tak-pat-té-ik: 


Oo-gléé-rii-ok: 
Ikk100-ligidk: 
Na-gike-to. 
Ow-litté-weeék 
Ittee-i8-00k: 
Noo-00d-ti-6k. 
Mallike-sé-ta. 
Tal-106t: 
Neeb-wa-wik. 
King-midiok. 
Kariéak. 
Ne-yi-ning Eit-du-a: 
Too-n0dod-luk. 
Ow-litteé-wetk. 
Seag-gaise-d-wik 
Khé-mig. 
Khe-mig. 


ESQUIMAUX NAMES OF PLACES. 571 


Quilliam Creek F 5 Kangék-]06, 

The Land about Cape Matthew Smith Khiad-lighioo. 
Bouverie Islands Oolookgiarnen. 
Tern Island S8-B-wiik. 
Anterst Island | a 
Liddon Island jo called . Seag-glar-rii-Uk 
Cockburn Island. Also some others . Kéiytk-tarriivke. 
Whyte Inlet Ew2é-ta-dke-tike. 


Islands off Autridge Bay 


Appéé-tier-tig-leek. 


THE END. 


4p 2 


Si BP a te > nt a 


Page 
143 
157 
177 
232 
4n2 
430 
434 
488 
492 
498 
548 
544 
546 


ERRATA. 


8 for * difference,”’ read ‘* diflidence.” 

14 for “ bay but; the,” read “ bay; but the.” 

9 for “ pa r,” read “ pair.” 

8 omit “ the.” 

8 for “ this her,” read “ her and.” 

9 from bottom, omit one “ that.” 

3 do. after ‘‘ on which,” insert “ we.” 
20 for “ late,” read “ lately.” 

7 from bottom, before “ the,’ add “ off.” 

note f, for ‘* nations,’ read “ natives.” 

7 for “ orm,” read “ form.” 
10 from bottom, for “ hermorrage,” read “ hemorrhage.” 
last line, between “ before,” and ‘ because,” insert, “ it." 


LONDON: 
PRINTED BY W. CLOWES, 
Northumberlana-court. 


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and drawn under bis tmmediate ee o SL BUSHNAN, | 


| 
| 
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Note. NA™ denotes the rack of the whips, 
Near the voundings, 1 menetar rocky bottom. m.nmud.. 
th. shells. si. stones. cor corad, 
gah at the ships te ve 


the Route) ere 
Wife My > Gy, Lp 
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Wl Lh Lif is 7 aoa | 
CAP dW hy. Pike hte Feur in 

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denotes the track of the ships 4 gotny out 


seed rocky bottom. m.mud.s varnd. A215 
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The unshaded part of this coast is latd down from 
Arrowsmiths chart of Labrador and Greentand 


» oO, if 
as TAP AS 73.350 west. 


Longitude West ftom Green: 


te & a sides 


ES ————<e«xa— = Publicher! as the act directs 6% Jun’ sees by Sohn Murray Mbemarte Strvet London. 


piut? 


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& “4 x wie! {65 - fae MIS 90, /|155 
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WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 
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LUKE, Fox 


AD. /637. 


Laid down trom the Journals of 
| Fax ands Yourin 
4 Cape (Yourin | | 


| 


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jt GE: Sa ODA RE A 


rg 


. pager ag? DI SO a 


C. Hallowell 


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(Eskimaux) 


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Se Eg. a Part 
North Euse 
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ney 
‘UO, “CNEL TES SCE ee 


J =. a = Se... Bc. a « 


Be 
= = a 


1UTRIDGE 


BAY 


pom fT oe eee oR 


aise Creek 
rc he ny s\ 


BAY 


pe ON, 


| ¢ 


‘\ 


\ 


AGNARITOO J 


(Eskimaux) J 
sf 


ve 
tag 


COH ART. ae 


Ae ofa Part of the , a el - — Se 
rte Eastern ( Fast ee os hae” > Se 


Ge 


: ; ee te 
83 vy) Jo 45 45 8il we Jo 


ee 
79 as 


Pere ere toot Teed 1} ry} 
| 
( 


So 
ARI PERERA) vernal 
BO am we Bom ee 


y at eo ) Le PA , > aD > ole 


el a an 
Hs Map 
(OF URY a 

Gt SEATCD 


we es 
Perth West 
under the Command of CAPT. 
AS 22" 
and drawn under his immediate inspection by F.1 


Track of the ships in going out 
” boats 


4 walking or sledge pare 
Land seen by the Expedition 
» aid down trom the informatt 
Places where the Qompatses were afi 
Near the soundings (r) denotes rocky 
(sh) shells, (st) stones, (ert) coral, 
Track of the ships in returning 
Position of the fixed Tce Jitly 1822, ¢ 
mr Sept! 122 


’ 
25 


A TT TT 


RRC ST A AN TT oN 

= I a= = = = Ea = CI aE CI E33 C— wes = = = = = 
| 
} 
iT 


Se oye Sa ys 
ier ais) 


Ke avn , DISCOVER IE AY 


UA € Map Gill As 
amp 0% cia 


tn search Of ar~% 


; Avith West —. 


Command g Ly CAPTOW. BE UPARRY, tn the Years 
- 1822 - 23. 


tminediute inspection by IBUsHNAN, RN: Mid’and Avsisté Surveyor. 


Track of the peed a going out ee a. 
bao or sledge parties eran a 
Land. seen by the Expedition ate 
« laid down rom the information of Eskimaux ~—~—~n~-~ 
Places where the Compatses were attected 
Near the soundings (r) denotes rocky bottom, te) (mud, (s/ sand, 
(sh) shells, (st) stones, (ert) coral. and + no bottoni 


Track of the ships in return ing oN 
Position of the tiwed Tce Jitly "2822, and « Ig £1823 AR 0 
Soper 122 ee 


. iy, 5 "= 
| y \ 2 ‘ ze 
19--~ 
: ii. sd _42- a 
= 4 - 


ah Walruses on 


a 


Longitude West trom Greenwich. 


a wears a6 6 8 6 68 ae 8 8 ee eee ee 6 ese 6 8 8 eeaana CC Saeaenaeeas 
es a = — — — y 5 sc “s 82° 


————— 


vects Jan” 1824 by John Murray Alhemarte Strvet London , 


sawn Me 


sb 


ew / 
Walruses , numerous 


24 «21 .duig 79823 ; 
7 cade J3o 


Ah 
| si 
je 

le | Rorbeee nade 
t pcaas nba SLL 

09M o>, 
PDD AE SMB WINS ein my 
} oe 
Wrrekfiny if ypsaitiretrete 
} new 
} 
{ ad 
vi) | ‘ 
} —_ 
} 
| 
| pre it 


sO 


46 


$88 6.8°8 BB B*8 Bon 8 O78 Bee” 


\ 


oo 


3 


! 


| 
J 


45 


45 


CSET FERIRSTA MOEREESEY SIROTA MERITS (ISIUETIEN CAAA] SSeS LONE HEERMARESED STO 


! 


25 


30 


geen oem > anno wens rneeeeenas e 


Yigs 


° 
at 
wz. 
ol 
wT 


| 


719° 


TWall-er Seupt 


eS 


Vo, 
Cape Resolution v7 miles distant. 


W OO 
East Bluff avd Lower Savage Island 


Appearance of the Middle Savage 


i nee 


wasn ; Vor 


Northern Shore of Hudson Straj 


Inpearaice of the North Shore of Wwdson Strait Lat, 695 40 N Lon gd! ao 


distant 4 ers lea 


Naf Weg miles. 


North Bluff and the largest of the Upper Savage Islands. 


NBE ; os 7 a “V08k , eae eee : = = = octane 
uf and Lower Savage Island 


soem Se ae 
Saddle Back Island 


. ’ . v rth Bor? 
Appearance of the Middle Savage Islands wher saciing along shore. ‘ 


Long. 76! 40 W. 


Northern Shore of Hudson Strait: Lat. 6425 


4 LAY a RY aX poo P \ 4 ¥ “ ~~ ‘ tag i 2 (2m yy  % LA C2 ” a Pe um - —— vhs eens ears 


a £ ee = ma - Sow 


Salisbury [stand 1 Windia svelp 


hiohed as the act dereis Min” sling by Sohn Miarvay Albenarte Vtreet la 


= 
=~ 
~ 
~ 
~ 
> 


hy 


ay 


orth Shore 


BIN SE RE I 5 og ei: ARRROES e 


Cape Wel stord SZ iW. Lntrance to Duke of York Bay. A Ww N 


on ii. sabi Prrrrnies, 
= emi athe DS eee * i 
= = Saeperneneee ieee ’ ane 
Sy Ws malas ‘a shane - an jis 
’ es Nias Islands Cape Deas Thomson, WH miles 


wae ne CER ~ _ v ee eae ae ae Said , 


Nias Islands 
View of the entrance to Duke of York B 


View of the Northan part of Sowhampton Island parang trom the Vroren Strait near Fassage hilnied. 


i hliched as the act directs Jan® ea by John Mu 


Mgt We Nias Islands S60 Cape Deas Thomson. 


Ngo! WW destant 7 mdes 


Cape Bylot. 


homson, S706 wiidey North Shore o7 ie entrance te Duke of York Bay. 


Rees 7 Oa 


Nias Islands VISCW 12 mules 


few of the entrance to Duke of York Bay when at Anchor within «i 


Cape Welsford Va5' asmules 


Se ok te Be aes Oe REE gc Sree - sere cigner ne mr tar ti er em re oor a Set Ee pera a ar 
Cape Fri . O miles distant. 
ner Passage Island. it} t ¢ 
1 Wilke 
J hliched as the act dervete Jan® ey by Sohn Murray Albemarle Street London 
ye 


* tant 10 miles. 


ae 


Mount Sabine bearing J.g0° A 


sla, 


Bus 


Cape Wilson W285" fi dastant 2? miles. 


arate ail as Fee tea lene. ra . ton creel emcee. = ayn 
— Mount Sabine V4 
The Bouverie Is! 
Rotate eel i eee 5 ae ana 
= (Sse SS pa erkeneg”: ‘ CANE Sake cy 
Hushnwn sed ! Yellow 128042 E10 miley, ‘he Wouveric Islands, Vow of team mere cases hiesl ie al 


FEES Eee oi eclectic OR LCL A LAL LLL LA ALO 
Published as the act directs dant s8eq by John Murray Aber 


er. ROR I? OTR 


Island of Owlitteeweek ae CRS oe | \ 


| 
| 


Cape Penrhyn distunt 10 miles. 


SSS 


| North Cape of the entrance to Barvow River 
Il S3.°W. distant 1% mile 


Co ae se Cae Beer 1 


Yellow1. Nao? Wo | 


The Bouverie Islands 


a ca SS 
AEs See > ee 


cere re seater ra sme ES secs 


‘Shore of the chirance'to the St ; 


rait ofthe Fury aadHecla, Momit Sabine  S90%E8 oF 6 radlas distant, | Isthmus bidile ein 


as the act directs dan) s804 by John Murray Mbemarte Street Landon. 


ae 


Cape North East Last 0 yniles 


SEE oe 


q 


H 


RO 
a 
{ 
ys 
LZ 
re 
= 


Cape Hallowell \.gg°M24 miles 


Cape North east 


Ippeare neo atthe Swait of the Vury aad He 


View of the Narrows ef the Strait of the Fury 


——_« an ———_ - 


{90 0 1 ee males 


View of the Western entran 


tacks ora Leagues 


Appearanee ofa part ot South 


hed ae the act direets Fan” 1804 by John Mere 


Pg i 


Cape North east 


Liddon Istane 


neo atthe Swait of the Vury and Heela when entering the Navvows thom the Eastivart . 


ra 


« 2 
ee ek See eaes eeeer 
» Narrows ofthe Strait of the Fury and Heela taken thoi the Westward Cape North East Last 6 milas 


= , . ed a eee 


Cape Hallowell Sag?hig milas 


View of the Western entrance of the Stvait of the Fury and Weela. taken thom Whyte lndet, 


tacky ora Lawues 


Appearaer ofa part of Southanipton Island tadvn from Fie Rock. 


teed te the wet dirvets Fan” Beg hy fohn Marvag MAbemarte Strvet Lonton